Marcus Schmuck
Encyclopedia
Marcus Schmuck was an Austria
n mountaineer
. In 1957, together with Hermann Buhl
he organized the expedition, firstly envisaged and initiated by Hermann Buhl
, to climb the worlds 12th highest peak, the Broad Peak
(8,047 metres) in the Karakoram
in Pakistan
. The other members of the expedition were: Fritz Wintersteller
and Kurt Diemberger
. In his later years, he successfully organized and led 74 expeditions to the high mountains around the world.
Austria
Austria , officially the Republic of Austria , is a landlocked country of roughly 8.4 million people in Central Europe. It is bordered by the Czech Republic and Germany to the north, Slovakia and Hungary to the east, Slovenia and Italy to the south, and Switzerland and Liechtenstein to the...
n mountaineer
Mountaineering
Mountaineering or mountain climbing is the sport, hobby or profession of hiking, skiing, and climbing mountains. While mountaineering began as attempts to reach the highest point of unclimbed mountains it has branched into specialisations that address different aspects of the mountain and consists...
. In 1957, together with Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl is considered one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying alpine style to Himalayan climbing...
he organized the expedition, firstly envisaged and initiated by Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl is considered one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying alpine style to Himalayan climbing...
, to climb the worlds 12th highest peak, the Broad Peak
Broad Peak
Broad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...
(8,047 metres) in the Karakoram
Karakoram
The Karakoram, or Karakorum , is a large mountain range spanning the borders between Pakistan, India and China, located in the regions of Gilgit-Baltistan , Ladakh , and Xinjiang region,...
in Pakistan
Pakistan
Pakistan , officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan is a sovereign state in South Asia. It has a coastline along the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Oman in the south and is bordered by Afghanistan and Iran in the west, India in the east and China in the far northeast. In the north, Tajikistan...
. The other members of the expedition were: Fritz Wintersteller
Fritz Wintersteller
Fritz Wintersteller is an Austrian mountaineer who made the first ascent of Broad Peak together with Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger and Marcus Schmuck in 1957....
and Kurt Diemberger
Kurt Diemberger
Kurt Diemberger is an accomplished Austrian mountaineer and author of several books.-Career:As of 2008, Kurt Diemberger is the only remaining person alive that made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres. In 1957, he made the first ascent of Broad Peak and in 1960, the first ascent...
. In his later years, he successfully organized and led 74 expeditions to the high mountains around the world.
First ascents
- 1946 Nördlicher Mandlkopf, Southwest face, V
- 1948 Wildalmkirchl, South traverse, V+
- 1949 Fleischbank, direct East chimney ("Schmuckkamin"), VI
- Sommerstein, West face, 1. winter ascent
- 1953 Birnhorn, South face, 1. winter ascent
- 1955 Snökuppelen, North face, IV
- Falkenstein, Southeast ridge, III
- Westbyfijell,South face, III and Southeast ridge, II
- 1956 Petit Dru, West face, record time 1.5 days
- Bischofsmütze direct North face, VI+
- 1957 Broad Peak 8047m on June 9
- Skil BrumSkil BrumSkil Brum, or Skilbrum, is a mountain in the Karakoram range in Northern Areas of Pakistan, approximately 9 km west-southwest of K2. It lies on the western side of the Godwin-Austen Glacier, roughly opposite Broad Peak....
7420m on June 19 - 1959 Hoggar Denachnet 2690m, East ridge
- 1963 Koh i Sayoz 6920m
- Koh i Shogordok 6855m
- 1965 Darban Zom 7220m
- Wildalmkirchl, South traverse
- 1982 Muztagh AtaMuztagh AtaMuztagh Ata, or Muztagata , is the second highest of the mountains which form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau . It is sometimes regarded as being part of the Kunlun Shan, although physically it is more closely connected to the Pamirs...
7546m, 3rd ascent, new route
Books
Marcus Schmuck wrote the following book:- Broad Peak 8047m Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann BuhlHermann BuhlHermann Buhl is considered one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying alpine style to Himalayan climbing...
, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart.