San Andrés Mixquic
Encyclopedia
19°13′29.69"N 98°57′51.43"W
San Andres Mixquic is a community located in the southeast of the Distrito Federal (Mexico City)
in the borough of Tláhuac
. The community was founded by the 11th century on what was a small island in Lake Chalco
. “Mixquic” means “in mesquite
” but the community’s culture for most of its history was based on chinampa
s, gardens floating on the lake’s waters and tied to the island. Drainage of Lake Chalco in the 19th and 20th century eventually destroyed the chinampas but the community is still agricultural in nature, despite being officially in the territory of Mexico City.
San Andres Mixquic is best known for its Day of the Dead
commemorations, which consist of both ritual and cultural events lasting from 31 October to 2 November. These events draw thousands of Mexican and international visitors, and culminate in the Alumbrada, when the cemetery that surrounds the community’s main church glows with thousands of candles and smoke from incense the evening of 2 November. This community was designated as a "Barrio Mágico"
by the city in 2011.
. In the pre-Hispanic period, Mixquic was a small island in Lake Chalco, around which the inhabitants built chinampas or floating gardens. Originally the community was an independent dominion, but because of its location in prime chinampa territory, it was subsequently subdued by Xochimilco, Chalco
, Azcapotzalco
and finally Tenochtitlan. Bernal Diaz del Castillo
describes Mixquic in his True History of the Conquest of New Spain as full of white towers and temples and was initially named by the Spaniards “Venezuela” for its similarity to Venice
. Hernán Cortés
subdued this area on 20 May 1521, after which soldiers from Mixquic helped subdue Tenochtitlan, with which they had had bad relations.
During the colonial era, this area was initially under direct control of the Spanish Crown. Later it became an encomienda
, and remained so until the 17th century. Between 1536 and 1563, the monastery of San Andres Apostol was constructed here by friars Jorge de Avila and Geronimo de San Esteban. The community of Mixquic became the ecclesiastical seat for the surrounding area.
In 1833, four crosses were placed in the following neighborhoods, San Agustín, San Miguel, San Bartolomé and Los Reyes, forming a rectangle that was the original dimensions of the main church’s atrium/cemetery. This was later modified by 1860 due to the Reform Laws, in part to allow for the construction of the Cristóbal Colon Primary School and the Andrés Quintana Roo
Library. In the second half of the 19th century, the first project to drain Lake Chalco was undertaken. However, the endeavor would not be finished until the era of Porfirio Diaz
in the late 19th century and early 20th.
The village of Mixquic became integrated with the Mexico City area in 1898, which would have long-term implications, as city authorities would have control over the community’s resources, in particular, its water. In 1916, during the Mexican Revolution
, the monastery was occupied by forces loyal to Venustiano Carranza
. In the first half of the 20th century, the community managed to preserve many of its chinampas using well water but by the 1960s, this was no longer feasible, ending the community’s lake culture. However, farming is still a major economic activity here and is the main producer of vegetables in the Federal District. The community is about three km2 with most of it used for agricultural purposes. Over half of this land is ejido
. Most of the produce is sold at the giant Centro de Abastos food market in the city.
Life is changing for the community as it becomes more integrated with Mexico City proper. More private vehicles and more public transportation is available, leading more of the community’s younger generation to seek employment in the city and/or further their education at university.
, or sacred precinct of Mixquic. The first church was demolished with only the original bell tower remaining. The current church dates from 1600, built with three nave
s and a cupola
, but it is separate from the bell tower of the original church. The old monastery has walls which are 90 cm thick constructed of tezontle
. In 1932, the church and monastery complex was declared a historic monument.
In the courtyard of the old monastery, there are a number of pre-Hispanic archeological finds on display. The first is a sculpture of Miquiztli or Mixquixtli, the goddess of life and death. Another significant find is a Chac Mool
which is displayed between two rings from the old Mesoamerican ballcourt
. Lastly are columns with figures of Quetzalcoatl and skulls sculpted from volcanic stone.
The Andres Quintana Roo Library is also the town’s site museum. This museum has fourteen glass cases containing 279 pieces from the old teocalli and other areas in and around Mixquic. The archeological collection that the museum holds was donated by Socorro Bernal Roque, a native of the village. Most of the pieces are of clay and stone and most belong to the late post-classic period
(1200–1500) but some pieces belong to the Toltec
and Teotihuacan
cultures. Among the pieces that stand out are a chac mool, vestiges of a teotlachtli, clay and stone seals, a coiled serpent and other snakes, a tzompantli
and a calendar that was hollowed out to make it into a baptismal font
.
A small area with canals and chinampas still exists near the town.
Members of the Legislative Assembly of the Distrito Federal (Mexico City) are demanding that the mayor of the city solicit the community as a World Heritage Site
. They claim that the area has physical characteristics and environmental impact that is unique in the world. The area is of importance to migrating birds and is a recharge zone for local aquifer
s. The main church’s cemetery and archeological site which World Heritage Site status would help preserve and promote its cultural value.
.
Preparations for this celebration can begin two or three months in advance, when families begin to buy plates and utensils that will be used only for ofrendas and women embroider napkins and tablecloths for the occasion. In mid-October, residents place a large paper star lantern over their doorways, which will remain until November 3. The purpose of this star is to help guide the dead who come back to visit. In the days leading up to the Day of the Dead, fields around the community that have been planted with cempoalxóchitl
bloom and the fragrance can be detected. Other aromas, such as those of fruits in season and pan de muerto
have given rise to the expression “ya huele a muertos”(now it smells like the dead) or “ya se siente muertitos” (now the dear (lit. little) dead can be felt) indicating that Day of the Dead is near. In the public primary schools, students and teachers arrange Day of the Dead altars, called ofrendas, with the teachers arranging the school’s large altar and students creating miniature ones, sometimes with themes. These are placed on public display, with the ofrendas of the Cristobal Colon Primary School the most visited due to the school’s location near the church. Days before celebrations begin, tomb cleaning and repair commences.
The final preparations take place on October 30 with family ofrendas laid out in homes. Families have their own variations on the ritual but some things are common, the offerings of bread, flowers, candles, a container with water paired with a container of salt, incense and photographs. For the most part, the ritual is a mixture of pre-Hispanic and Catholic rites, with the addition of photographs being a modern touch. Mostly these offerings are made privately in homes on altars arranged for this day, but elements can be seen at the cemetery on the graves. One element that is local is a donut-shaped bread with a dark pink glaze called “roscas rosas” that are laid out along with pan de muertos. People open their doors here to invite the dead to visit.
From 31 October to 2 November, friends and family will come and visit the ofrendas. These visitors will bring items for the ofrendas, generally things that the deceased liked in life. As the visitors come by, the ofrenda grows. Hosts reciprocate by offering food and drink to the visitors.
At midnight of 31 October the church bells signal the arrival of the souls of children who have departed. Ofrendas to children are often decorated with brightly colored toys. One traditional toy is a dog named Izcuincle (Nahuatl
for dog) because it guides the children over the river Chiconauhuapan to enter Mictlán
(realm of the dead). For this day, no offering should be left for adults as it is believed that the children get angry and sad if this occurs. In the morning of November 1, a breakfast is laid on the ofrenda. From the outside to this ofrenda is a trail of a white flower called “alhelí”
, which symbolizes the purity of these souls. The souls of children visit from midnight of 31 October to mid-day on 1 November. At this time, when “after the sun passes its zenith,” local belief holds that the “souls of the children return to Mictlán” and the souls of the adults arrive and stay through 2 November.
When night falls on 1 November, the air fills with the music of tropical and mariachi
groups. There is also a contest among skulls that have been fabricated from cardboard, painted and inscribed with satire, tall tales and jokes. A mock funeral procession comes through featuring a supposed widow who shouts picaresque phrases at the crowd about the loss of her husband being carried in a casket. The procession moves toward the graveyard and helpers solicit contributions for the “burial” making jokes with the attendees. When they arrive to the graveyard, instead of burying the supposed husband, he jumps out of the coffin and runs off terrified among the crowd causing laughter.
At seven pm on November 1, the church bells ring again, signaling the beginning of the Hour of Campanera. Groups of youths wander from house to house carrying bells and sing "a las ánimas benditas les prendemos sus ceritas. Campanero, mi tamal" (to the blessed souls we light our candles. Campanero, my tamale) . After which they receive tamales, candy or fruit.
On the morning of 2 November, grave cleaning and decoration begins in earnest. Graves in the main cemetery, which surrounds the Church of San Andres Apostal, are decorated with flowers, especially cempasúchil, candles and other items. The tombs are decorated carefully and sometimes elaborately, making images of the Virgin, cross or other icons with flowers, flower petals or colored sawdust. These graves are prepared for the Alumbrada, which begins at eight pm when the church bells ring yet again. By this time, the church has its own large ofrenda and its lights are dimmed. At this hour, the cemetery around the church is full of color from the flowers and glowing due to the light of thousands of burning candles and thick smoke from copal incense.
Due to the large number of visitors, in 2009, special security operations were put into place. A large number of officers on foot and horseback were on patrol and extra equipment for traffic control was provided. The sale of alcohol was restricted to certain zones and to certain hours.
San Andres Mixquic is a community located in the southeast of the Distrito Federal (Mexico City)
Mexico City
Mexico City is the Federal District , capital of Mexico and seat of the federal powers of the Mexican Union. It is a federal entity within Mexico which is not part of any one of the 31 Mexican states but belongs to the federation as a whole...
in the borough of Tláhuac
Tláhuac
Tláhuac is one of the 16 delegaciones into which Mexico's Federal District is divided. It is located on the east edge of the district and is largely rural in character. The main town, San Pedro Tláhuac, is situated alongside a lake, and is the site of a 16th century church. The borough had a 2010...
. The community was founded by the 11th century on what was a small island in Lake Chalco
Lake Chalco
Lake Chalco was an endorheic lake formerly located in the Valley of Mexico and was important for human development in central Mexico. The lake was named after the city of Chalco on its eastern shore....
. “Mixquic” means “in mesquite
Mesquite
Mesquite is a leguminous plant of the Prosopis genus found in northern Mexico through the Sonoran Desert and Chihuahuan Deserts, and up into the Southwestern United States as far north as southern Kansas, west to the Colorado Desert in California,and east to the eastern fifth of Texas, where...
” but the community’s culture for most of its history was based on chinampa
Chinampa
Chinampa is a method of ancient Mesoamerican agriculture which used small, rectangle-shaped areas of fertile arable land to grow crops on the shallow lake beds in the Valley of Mexico.-Description:...
s, gardens floating on the lake’s waters and tied to the island. Drainage of Lake Chalco in the 19th and 20th century eventually destroyed the chinampas but the community is still agricultural in nature, despite being officially in the territory of Mexico City.
San Andres Mixquic is best known for its Day of the Dead
Day of the Dead
Day of the Dead is a Mexican holiday celebrated throughout Mexico and around the world in many cultures. The holiday focuses on gatherings of family and friends to pray for and remember friends and family members who have died. It is particularly celebrated in Mexico, where it attains the quality...
commemorations, which consist of both ritual and cultural events lasting from 31 October to 2 November. These events draw thousands of Mexican and international visitors, and culminate in the Alumbrada, when the cemetery that surrounds the community’s main church glows with thousands of candles and smoke from incense the evening of 2 November. This community was designated as a "Barrio Mágico"
Barrios Mágicos of Mexico City
The “Barrios Mágicos” of Mexico City is a list of twenty one areas in the Federal District, which have been named “magical neighborhoods” in order to attract tourism to them. The program is sponsored by the city government but is patterned after the “Pueblos Mágicos” program of the Mexican...
by the city in 2011.
History
The community of Mixquic was most likely founded around the 11th century by people who migrated here from XochimilcoXochimilco
Xochimilco is one of the sixteen delegaciones or boroughs within Mexican Federal District. The borough is centered on the formerly independent city of Xochimilco, which was established on what was the southern shore of Lake Xochimilco in the pre-Hispanic period...
. In the pre-Hispanic period, Mixquic was a small island in Lake Chalco, around which the inhabitants built chinampas or floating gardens. Originally the community was an independent dominion, but because of its location in prime chinampa territory, it was subsequently subdued by Xochimilco, Chalco
Chalco
Aluminum Corporation of China Limited, also known as Chalco , is a multinational aluminum company headquartered in Beijing, People's Republic of China...
, Azcapotzalco
Azcapotzalco (altepetl)
Azcapotzalco was a pre-Columbian Nahua altepetl , capital of the Tepanec empire, in the Valley of Mexico, on the western shore of Lake Texcoco.The name Azcapotzalco means "at the anthill" in Nahuatl...
and finally Tenochtitlan. Bernal Diaz del Castillo
Bernal Díaz del Castillo
Bernal Díaz del Castillo was a conquistador, who wrote an eyewitness account of the conquest of Mexico by the Spaniards for Hernán Cortés, himself serving as a rodelero under Cortés.-Early life:...
describes Mixquic in his True History of the Conquest of New Spain as full of white towers and temples and was initially named by the Spaniards “Venezuela” for its similarity to Venice
Venice
Venice is a city in northern Italy which is renowned for the beauty of its setting, its architecture and its artworks. It is the capital of the Veneto region...
. Hernán Cortés
Hernán Cortés
Hernán Cortés de Monroy y Pizarro, 1st Marquis of the Valley of Oaxaca was a Spanish Conquistador who led an expedition that caused the fall of the Aztec Empire and brought large portions of mainland Mexico under the rule of the King of Castile in the early 16th century...
subdued this area on 20 May 1521, after which soldiers from Mixquic helped subdue Tenochtitlan, with which they had had bad relations.
During the colonial era, this area was initially under direct control of the Spanish Crown. Later it became an encomienda
Encomienda
The encomienda was a system that was employed mainly by the Spanish crown during the colonization of the Americas to regulate Native American labor....
, and remained so until the 17th century. Between 1536 and 1563, the monastery of San Andres Apostol was constructed here by friars Jorge de Avila and Geronimo de San Esteban. The community of Mixquic became the ecclesiastical seat for the surrounding area.
In 1833, four crosses were placed in the following neighborhoods, San Agustín, San Miguel, San Bartolomé and Los Reyes, forming a rectangle that was the original dimensions of the main church’s atrium/cemetery. This was later modified by 1860 due to the Reform Laws, in part to allow for the construction of the Cristóbal Colon Primary School and the Andrés Quintana Roo
Andrés Quintana Roo
Andrés Quintana Roo was a Mexican liberal politician and author. He was one of the most influential men in the War of Independence and served as a member of the Congress of Chilpancingo...
Library. In the second half of the 19th century, the first project to drain Lake Chalco was undertaken. However, the endeavor would not be finished until the era of Porfirio Diaz
Porfirio Díaz
José de la Cruz Porfirio Díaz Mori was a Mexican-American War volunteer and French intervention hero, an accomplished general and the President of Mexico continuously from 1876 to 1911, with the exception of a brief term in 1876 when he left Juan N...
in the late 19th century and early 20th.
The village of Mixquic became integrated with the Mexico City area in 1898, which would have long-term implications, as city authorities would have control over the community’s resources, in particular, its water. In 1916, during the Mexican Revolution
Mexican Revolution
The Mexican Revolution was a major armed struggle that started in 1910, with an uprising led by Francisco I. Madero against longtime autocrat Porfirio Díaz. The Revolution was characterized by several socialist, liberal, anarchist, populist, and agrarianist movements. Over time the Revolution...
, the monastery was occupied by forces loyal to Venustiano Carranza
Venustiano Carranza
Venustiano Carranza de la Garza, was one of the leaders of the Mexican Revolution. He ultimately became President of Mexico following the overthrow of the dictatorial Huerta regime in the summer of 1914 and during his administration the current constitution of Mexico was drafted...
. In the first half of the 20th century, the community managed to preserve many of its chinampas using well water but by the 1960s, this was no longer feasible, ending the community’s lake culture. However, farming is still a major economic activity here and is the main producer of vegetables in the Federal District. The community is about three km2 with most of it used for agricultural purposes. Over half of this land is ejido
Ejido
The ejido system is a process whereby the government promotes the use of communal land shared by the people of the community. This use of community land was a common practice during the time of Aztec rule in Mexico...
. Most of the produce is sold at the giant Centro de Abastos food market in the city.
Life is changing for the community as it becomes more integrated with Mexico City proper. More private vehicles and more public transportation is available, leading more of the community’s younger generation to seek employment in the city and/or further their education at university.
The village
The center of the village is the church and ex-monastery of San Andres Apostol. Between 1536 and 1563, the monastery was constructed here by friars Jorge de Avila and Geronimo de San Esteban. The church and monastery was built over the teocalliTeocalli
A teocalli is a Mesoamerican pyramid surmounted by a temple. The pyramid is terraced, and some of the most important religious rituals in Pre-Columbian Mexico took place in the temple at the top of the pyramid....
, or sacred precinct of Mixquic. The first church was demolished with only the original bell tower remaining. The current church dates from 1600, built with three nave
Nave
In Romanesque and Gothic Christian abbey, cathedral basilica and church architecture, the nave is the central approach to the high altar, the main body of the church. "Nave" was probably suggested by the keel shape of its vaulting...
s and a cupola
Cupola
In architecture, a cupola is a small, most-often dome-like, structure on top of a building. Often used to provide a lookout or to admit light and air, it usually crowns a larger roof or dome....
, but it is separate from the bell tower of the original church. The old monastery has walls which are 90 cm thick constructed of tezontle
Tezontle
Tezontle is a porous, extrusive, igneous, volcanic rock used extensively in construction in Mexico. It is usually reddish in color.-Uses:Tezontle can be mixed with concrete to form lightweight concrete blocks, or mixed with cement to create stucco finishes. Tezontle is often used as the top...
. In 1932, the church and monastery complex was declared a historic monument.
In the courtyard of the old monastery, there are a number of pre-Hispanic archeological finds on display. The first is a sculpture of Miquiztli or Mixquixtli, the goddess of life and death. Another significant find is a Chac Mool
Chac Mool
Chac-Mool is the name given to a type of Pre-Columbian Mesoamerican stone statue.The Chac-Mool depicts a human figure in a position of reclining with the head up and turned to one side, holding a tray over the stomach...
which is displayed between two rings from the old Mesoamerican ballcourt
Mesoamerican ballgame
The Mesoamerican ballgame or Tlatchtli in Náhuatl was a sport with ritual associations played since 1,000 B.C. by the pre-Columbian peoples of Ancient Mexico and Central America...
. Lastly are columns with figures of Quetzalcoatl and skulls sculpted from volcanic stone.
The Andres Quintana Roo Library is also the town’s site museum. This museum has fourteen glass cases containing 279 pieces from the old teocalli and other areas in and around Mixquic. The archeological collection that the museum holds was donated by Socorro Bernal Roque, a native of the village. Most of the pieces are of clay and stone and most belong to the late post-classic period
Mesoamerican chronology
Mesoamerican chronology divides the history of pre-Columbian Mesoamerica into several periods: the Paleo-Indian , the Archaic , the Preclassic , the Classic , and the Postclassic...
(1200–1500) but some pieces belong to the Toltec
Toltec
The Toltec culture is an archaeological Mesoamerican culture that dominated a state centered in Tula, Hidalgo in the early post-classic period of Mesoamerican chronology...
and Teotihuacan
Teotihuacan
Teotihuacan – also written Teotihuacán, with a Spanish orthographic accent on the last syllable – is an enormous archaeological site in the Basin of Mexico, just 30 miles northeast of Mexico City, containing some of the largest pyramidal structures built in the pre-Columbian Americas...
cultures. Among the pieces that stand out are a chac mool, vestiges of a teotlachtli, clay and stone seals, a coiled serpent and other snakes, a tzompantli
Tzompantli
A tzompantli or skull rack is a type of wooden rack or palisade documented in several Mesoamerican civilizations, which was used for the public display of human skulls, typically those of war captives or other sacrificial victims.-Etymology:...
and a calendar that was hollowed out to make it into a baptismal font
Baptismal font
A baptismal font is an article of church furniture or a fixture used for the baptism of children and adults.-Aspersion and affusion fonts:...
.
A small area with canals and chinampas still exists near the town.
Members of the Legislative Assembly of the Distrito Federal (Mexico City) are demanding that the mayor of the city solicit the community as a World Heritage Site
World Heritage Site
A UNESCO World Heritage Site is a place that is listed by the UNESCO as of special cultural or physical significance...
. They claim that the area has physical characteristics and environmental impact that is unique in the world. The area is of importance to migrating birds and is a recharge zone for local aquifer
Aquifer
An aquifer is a wet underground layer of water-bearing permeable rock or unconsolidated materials from which groundwater can be usefully extracted using a water well. The study of water flow in aquifers and the characterization of aquifers is called hydrogeology...
s. The main church’s cemetery and archeological site which World Heritage Site status would help preserve and promote its cultural value.
Day of the Dead celebrations
Day of the Dead is the most important celebration in this community, with two days of ritual and cultural events from November 1st to 2nd. The village and its church graveyard has become famous in the Mexico City metropolitan area for this. In and around the cemetery, thousands of Mexican and international visitors experience the sights, sound and smells of the rituals, cultural events and stands selling food, crafts and other items. The modern celebrations are an extension of the cult of the dead that existed here since pre-Hispanic times. Excavations in this area have revealed a large quantity of stone skulls that used to adorn the facades of homes in this area. Solemn commemoration and festivities do not compete here; both are considered part of the event. In addition to the traditional altars to the dead called “ofrendas”, grave cleanings and decoration, there are also plays, processions, poetry readings, concerts and folk dance. In 2009, the finale was a concert by Susana HarpSusana Harp
-Biography:Born in Oaxaca de Juarez, her mother is from Oaxaca and her father Lebanese, from a very small community in Mexico. In her childhood she was a quiet girl, but always showed interest in music as she was influenced by her grandfather Jorge Fernando Iturribarria...
.
Preparations for this celebration can begin two or three months in advance, when families begin to buy plates and utensils that will be used only for ofrendas and women embroider napkins and tablecloths for the occasion. In mid-October, residents place a large paper star lantern over their doorways, which will remain until November 3. The purpose of this star is to help guide the dead who come back to visit. In the days leading up to the Day of the Dead, fields around the community that have been planted with cempoalxóchitl
Calendula officinalis
Calendula officinalis is a plant in the genus Calendula , in the family Asteraceae. It is probably native to southern Europe though its long history of cultivation makes its precise origin unknown, and may possibly be of garden origin...
bloom and the fragrance can be detected. Other aromas, such as those of fruits in season and pan de muerto
Pan de muerto
The pan de muertos is a type of bread traditionally baked in Mexico during the weeks leading up to the Día de los Muertos, which is celebrated on November 1 and 2. It is a sweetened soft bread shaped like a bun, often decorated with bone-like pieces...
have given rise to the expression “ya huele a muertos”(now it smells like the dead) or “ya se siente muertitos” (now the dear (lit. little) dead can be felt) indicating that Day of the Dead is near. In the public primary schools, students and teachers arrange Day of the Dead altars, called ofrendas, with the teachers arranging the school’s large altar and students creating miniature ones, sometimes with themes. These are placed on public display, with the ofrendas of the Cristobal Colon Primary School the most visited due to the school’s location near the church. Days before celebrations begin, tomb cleaning and repair commences.
The final preparations take place on October 30 with family ofrendas laid out in homes. Families have their own variations on the ritual but some things are common, the offerings of bread, flowers, candles, a container with water paired with a container of salt, incense and photographs. For the most part, the ritual is a mixture of pre-Hispanic and Catholic rites, with the addition of photographs being a modern touch. Mostly these offerings are made privately in homes on altars arranged for this day, but elements can be seen at the cemetery on the graves. One element that is local is a donut-shaped bread with a dark pink glaze called “roscas rosas” that are laid out along with pan de muertos. People open their doors here to invite the dead to visit.
From 31 October to 2 November, friends and family will come and visit the ofrendas. These visitors will bring items for the ofrendas, generally things that the deceased liked in life. As the visitors come by, the ofrenda grows. Hosts reciprocate by offering food and drink to the visitors.
At midnight of 31 October the church bells signal the arrival of the souls of children who have departed. Ofrendas to children are often decorated with brightly colored toys. One traditional toy is a dog named Izcuincle (Nahuatl
Nahuatl
Nahuatl is thought to mean "a good, clear sound" This language name has several spellings, among them náhuatl , Naoatl, Nauatl, Nahuatl, Nawatl. In a back formation from the name of the language, the ethnic group of Nahuatl speakers are called Nahua...
for dog) because it guides the children over the river Chiconauhuapan to enter Mictlán
Mictlan
Mictlan was the underworld of Aztec mythology. Most people who died went to Mictlan, although other possibilities existed . Mictlan was located far to the north, and consisted of nine distinct levels....
(realm of the dead). For this day, no offering should be left for adults as it is believed that the children get angry and sad if this occurs. In the morning of November 1, a breakfast is laid on the ofrenda. From the outside to this ofrenda is a trail of a white flower called “alhelí”
Erysimum cheiri
Erysimum cheiri is a species of wallflower known by the common name Aegean wallflower in English. It is also known as giroflée and revenelle in French, goldlack in German, alhelí in Spanish and violacciocca in Italian.-Distribution:The plant is native to Europe but it is common and widespread on...
, which symbolizes the purity of these souls. The souls of children visit from midnight of 31 October to mid-day on 1 November. At this time, when “after the sun passes its zenith,” local belief holds that the “souls of the children return to Mictlán” and the souls of the adults arrive and stay through 2 November.
When night falls on 1 November, the air fills with the music of tropical and mariachi
Mariachi
Mariachi is a genre of music that originated in the State of Jalisco, in Mexico. It is an integration of stringed instruments highly influenced by the cultural impacts of the historical development of Western Mexico. Throughout the history of mariachi, musicians have experimented with brass, wind,...
groups. There is also a contest among skulls that have been fabricated from cardboard, painted and inscribed with satire, tall tales and jokes. A mock funeral procession comes through featuring a supposed widow who shouts picaresque phrases at the crowd about the loss of her husband being carried in a casket. The procession moves toward the graveyard and helpers solicit contributions for the “burial” making jokes with the attendees. When they arrive to the graveyard, instead of burying the supposed husband, he jumps out of the coffin and runs off terrified among the crowd causing laughter.
At seven pm on November 1, the church bells ring again, signaling the beginning of the Hour of Campanera. Groups of youths wander from house to house carrying bells and sing "a las ánimas benditas les prendemos sus ceritas. Campanero, mi tamal" (to the blessed souls we light our candles. Campanero, my tamale) . After which they receive tamales, candy or fruit.
On the morning of 2 November, grave cleaning and decoration begins in earnest. Graves in the main cemetery, which surrounds the Church of San Andres Apostal, are decorated with flowers, especially cempasúchil, candles and other items. The tombs are decorated carefully and sometimes elaborately, making images of the Virgin, cross or other icons with flowers, flower petals or colored sawdust. These graves are prepared for the Alumbrada, which begins at eight pm when the church bells ring yet again. By this time, the church has its own large ofrenda and its lights are dimmed. At this hour, the cemetery around the church is full of color from the flowers and glowing due to the light of thousands of burning candles and thick smoke from copal incense.
Due to the large number of visitors, in 2009, special security operations were put into place. A large number of officers on foot and horseback were on patrol and extra equipment for traffic control was provided. The sale of alcohol was restricted to certain zones and to certain hours.