Gianfranco Ferrè
Encyclopedia
Gianfranco Ferré was a fashion design
Fashion design
Fashion design is the art of the application of design and aesthetics or natural beauty to clothing and accessories. Fashion design is influenced by cultural and social latitudes, and has varied over time and place. Fashion designers work in a number of ways in designing clothing and accessories....

er also known as "the architect of fashion" for his background and his original attitude toward creating fashion design.

Born in Legnano
Legnano
Legnano is an Italian town and comune with 59.147 inhabitants in the province of Milan, about from Milan.It's crossed by the river Olona, and it's the 13th town for inhabitants in Lombardy....

, Italy
Italy
Italy , officially the Italian Republic languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Italy's official name is as follows:;;;;;;;;), is a unitary parliamentary republic in South-Central Europe. To the north it borders France, Switzerland, Austria and...

, he received a degree in architecture in 1969 at the Politecnico di Milano university. In 1983, he joined Domus Academy as founding Professor of the Department of Fashion Design.

Ferré began his fashion career in 1970 by designing accessories, then worked as a raincoat designer in 1972-74. He started his own company Baila in 1974 and launched his signature collection for women in 1978. His first men's collection appeared in 1982, followed in 1986 by his first couture collection in Rome.
Ferré became Stylistic Director of Christian Dior
Christian Dior SA
Christian Dior S.A. is a French company which owns the high-fashion clothing producer and retailer Christian Dior Couture, as well as holding 42% of LVMH Moët Hennessy • Louis Vuitton, the world's largest luxury goods firm. Both Dior and LVMH are controlled and chaired by businessman Bernard...

 in Paris
Paris
Paris is the capital and largest city in France, situated on the river Seine, in northern France, at the heart of the Île-de-France region...

 in 1989, when he was chosen by owner Bernard Arnault
Bernard Arnault
Bernard Arnault is a French business magnate who is best known as the chairman and CEO of the French conglomerate LVMH. According to Forbes Magazine, Arnault is the world's 4th and Europe's richest person, with a 2011 net worth of US$41 billion.-Education and business career:Arnault was born...

 to replace Marc Bohan
Marc Bohan
Marc Bohan is a French fashion designer.In 1945, he worked as a design assistant for Robert Piguet. In 1949, he left the Piguet couture house and worked as a design assistant for Edward Molyneux. From 1954 until 1958, Bohan worked as a designer for Jean Patou.In 1958, he joined the Christian...

. In 1996, it was announced that Ferré would end his engagement with Dior with the Spring 1997 collection for the label.

His own label is more relaxed and pared-down than Dior. Sophisticated white shirts have become the symbol of his personal signature in fashion design.

Ferré appeared to be extremely critical of trends and fashion gimmicks. He dealt with his demanding schedule, being responsible for a French top fashion brand and his own Italian label, by commuting between Milan
Milan
Milan is the second-largest city in Italy and the capital city of the region of Lombardy and of the province of Milan. The city proper has a population of about 1.3 million, while its urban area, roughly coinciding with its administrative province and the bordering Province of Monza and Brianza ,...

 and Paris
Paris
Paris is the capital and largest city in France, situated on the river Seine, in northern France, at the heart of the Île-de-France region...

 in his private plane. Ferré had a lakeside home in Lake Maggiore
Lake Maggiore
Lake Maggiore is a large lake located on the south side of the Alps. It is the second largest of Italy and largest of southern Switzerland. Lake Maggiore is the most westerly of the three great prealpine lakes of Italy, it extends for about 70 km between Locarno and Arona.The climate is mild...

, near Milan.

Eva Riccobono
Eva Riccobono
Eva Riccobono is an Italian model.- Biography :Riccobono was born in 1983 in Palermo, the largest city in Sicily. She has three older sisters and a brother who died when she was four...

 was one of his favourite supermodels for catwalks and advertisements and Matteo Ceccarini his best sound designer.

Product lines

  • Gianfranco Ferré: The main line for men, women
  • Ferré: previously known as the White Label, more practical, ready-to-wear for both men, women. Within this line, there are Ferré Red (for plus size) and Ferré Fur. For Ferré men there is also Ferré Underwear.
  • GF Ferré: The younger, more sporty line, for men, women
  • Gianfranco Ferré Fragrances
  • Ferre Milano - casual line for woman and men

Awards

Ferré won a number of prestigious awards including the L'Occhio d'Oro during his career
  • Occhio d'Oro Award (six times) for Best Italian Designer
  • Gold Medal from the City of Milan
  • Commendatore del Ordine decoration from the President of the Italian Republic
  • De d'Or (Golden Thimble Award) for his first Dior haute couture collection (1989)

Ownership

The Gianfranco Ferré S.p.A. is the holding company that coordinates the fashion business of the Ferré label. It was owned by Gianfranco Ferré (Creative Director) and Franco Mattioli (Chief Financial Officer) in equal shares until it was sold to IT Holdings in March 2002. Recently, Ferré announced that the group plans to become listed at the Milan stock exchange
Borsa Italiana
The Borsa Italiana S.p.A., based in Milan, is Italy's main stock exchange. It was privatised in 1997 and is a part of the London Stock Exchange Group plc since 2007. In 2005, the companies listed on the Borsa were worth US$890 billion...

. In order to prepare for this movement Ferré started to rearrange the holding significantly. First step was the recruitment of experienced management personnel under the guide of Giuseppe Cipriano. Next step is the reduction of the number of subsidiaries from today 21 to four or five in the future. Another move is the acquisition of the apparel producer Dei Mattioli, which is owned by Franco Mattioli. Ferré also seems to be interested in acquiring some of his contractors, in order to have more control over the production.

Performance

The company achieved total sales of 950 billion Lira ($589 million) in 1994, an increase of 15% over 1993, which had shown enjoyed a similar increase over 1992 sales. Ferré's 14 licences contributed 58% to total sales in 1994. In 1996, total sales were already at 1250 billion Lira ($811 million).

Exports

70% of Ferré sales are achieved in export, where the US appears to be the biggest market with growing importance. Italy still holds 20% of the sales, but the success of the Ferré Jeans business in the US seems to shift the focus here. The Studio .0001 by Ferré line, produced by Italian garment manufacturer Marzotto
Marzotto
The Marzotto Group is an Italian textile manufacturer, based in Valdagno.Created in 1836 as the Lanificio Luigi Marzotto & Figli. In 2005 Marzotto Group's textile business separated from Valentino Fashion Group....

, is basically targeted at the US market.

Distribution

Ferré distributes in 17 exclusive boutiques worldwide (1994) and has over 250 sales points in total.

Production/licenses

Though no longer under production, the Studio .0001 and Forma O were produced by Marzotto, one of the biggest Italian garment manufacturers. The sportswear collections Oaks by Ferré and Ferrejeans used to be manufactured by Italiana Manifatture S.p.A., but Ferré contracted those lines for the next ten years to Ittiere, who also furnish the bridge collections of Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana is an Italian luxury industry fashion house. The company was started by the Italian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana in Milan, Italy. By 2005 their turnover was €597 million....

, Versace, and others. The range of licenced products is wide, including shoes, stationery, luggage, home furnishings, and perfumes. The latest addition to this list is the license given to the Swiss watch manufacturer Swatch.

Most of the external licenses were eliminated in 2003, leaving only the Gianfranco Ferre mainline, Ferre diffusion, and GF Ferre younger/activewear labels.

Real Estate

On June 25 of 2008 real estate and the world of high fashion established a new precedent in the world of modern architectural splendour when Gianfranco Ferré entered into a worldwide joint venture with Dubai-based GIO Developments, part of Galadari Investment Office (GIO) in Milan today.
An exclusive development deal was signed naming GIO Developments the worldwide partner for all Gianfranco Ferré real estate projects. GIO Developments is fully responsible for real estate, construction, management and operations, whilst Gianfranco Ferré will oversee all aspects of content, design and style.
The first project of the "Gianfranco Ferré for GIO" joint venture will be erected in Dubai and named Gianfranco Ferré Stresa. It will go on stream combining residential, commercial and hospitality spaces so that the mixed-use development will complement itself. The project is worth more than USD$1.2 billion and is packaged to introduce the world to genuine 'concrete couture', according to industry experts.

Death

Ferré died on June 17, 2007. The previous Friday, he had suffered a massive brain hemorrhage. Ferré was hospitalized at the San Raffaele Hospital
San Raffaele Hospital
The San Raffaele Hospital is a university hospital situated in Milan, Italy.It was founded in 1969 by don Luigi Maria Verzé, president of "San Raffaele del Monte Tabor Foundation"....

 in Milan, where he was pronounced dead a few days later.

Sources and links

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