Holmöarna
Encyclopedia
Holmöarna is an island group in the Kvarken
narrows of the Gulf of Bothnia
between Sweden
and Finland
. The islands form part of Umeå Municipality
in Västerbotten County
. The islands have 75 year-round inhabitants and the largest islands are Holmön, Ängesön, Grossgrunden, Holmögadd and Lilla and Stora Fjäderägg. Large areas of the islands have been set aside as nature reserve
s.
The islands are situated in the Norra Kvarken
narrows between the Bothnian Sea
to the south and the Bothnian Bay
to the north. Holmöarna's nature is quite diverse with areas covered in forest, bog
s and lake
s, and the islands have a rich birdlife. The islands' natural life is so special that the whole of Holmögadd, Stora Fjäderägg and Grossgrunden, nearly all of Ängesön and the eastern half of Holmön and all waters surrounding these have been protected as a nature reserve since 1980, incidentally the largest island
nature reserve in Sweden.
Many of the lakes and pools on Holmöarna are former bays and inlets which were severed from the sea due to the rising of the underlying land mass
by about 8.5 mm (approx. ⅓") each year. Strandbjerget, the islands' highest point at 25.83 meters above sea level, is found at Holmöns northern end.
forest. The preserved
main village of Holmö By is surrounded by open fields separated by narrow bands of woodland and stone walls with the occasional heap of cleared rocks
.
The main part of Holmö By was built alongside Hallen esker
, and about 20 farms adjoin the road leading south through cultivated moorland
. The village has a church and primary school as well as a fire station
and a trade cooperative offering groceries, alcoholic beverages and petrol as well as apothecary, library and postal services.
Byviken village on the northwestern tip of Holmön hosts the islands' ferry and marina facilities. The Ship Museum is also located here, as well as a tourist information centre, restaurant, bathing beach and the Holmögården youth hostel
. Berguddens fyrplats is a locality 3 km southwest of Byviken sporting a lighthouse from 1896 and some lighthouse keepers' cabins now converted to a hostel. Gäddbäckssundet ("Jäbbäckssundet" in local dialect) is a sound located to the southeast of Holmön, separating it from the island of Ängesön, and offering a secure anchorage.
, and bogs from which reed
used to be cut. The road leading from Byviken, through Holmö By, terminates near Grossgrunden on Ängesön's southern tip.
grjót meaning "rock" and grund meaning "bottom") was once an area of dangerous rocky shallows, but due to the post-glacial rebound
it is now a proper island surrounded by outlying islet
s.
The island is an important resting point for migratory birds
on their way to Asia
and Africa
. The southern half of the island has a number of ancient stone markings shaped in the form of labyrinth
s and compass rose
s, from the days Stora Fjäderägg was a fishing
and sealing
base. The former lighthouse keeper's residence now houses a youth hostel.
is put to use, but being susceptible to pervading winds, it is often replaced with a helicopter
service. The ferry ride to the islands takes approximately 45 minutes.
From time to time Holmöslupen, a reconstructed sloop
as was once common along the coast of Västerbotten
, sails between Byviken and Stora Fjäderägg accepting passengers.
Kvarken
Kvarken is the narrow region in the Gulf of Bothnia separating the Bothnian Bay from the Bothnian Sea...
narrows of the Gulf of Bothnia
Gulf of Bothnia
The Gulf of Bothnia is the northernmost arm of the Baltic Sea. It is situated between Finland's west coast and Sweden's east coast. In the south of the gulf lie the Åland Islands, between the Sea of Åland and the Archipelago Sea.-Name:...
between Sweden
Sweden
Sweden , officially the Kingdom of Sweden , is a Nordic country on the Scandinavian Peninsula in Northern Europe. Sweden borders with Norway and Finland and is connected to Denmark by a bridge-tunnel across the Öresund....
and Finland
Finland
Finland , officially the Republic of Finland, is a Nordic country situated in the Fennoscandian region of Northern Europe. It is bordered by Sweden in the west, Norway in the north and Russia in the east, while Estonia lies to its south across the Gulf of Finland.Around 5.4 million people reside...
. The islands form part of Umeå Municipality
Umeå Municipality
Umeå Municipality is a municipality in Västerbotten County in northern Sweden. Its seat is located in Umeå, which is also the county seat of Västerbotten County.-Administration:...
in Västerbotten County
Västerbotten County
Västerbotten County is a county or län in the north of Sweden. It borders the counties of Västernorrland, Jämtland, and Norrbotten, as well as the Norwegian county of Nordland and the Gulf of Bothnia.- Provinces :...
. The islands have 75 year-round inhabitants and the largest islands are Holmön, Ängesön, Grossgrunden, Holmögadd and Lilla and Stora Fjäderägg. Large areas of the islands have been set aside as nature reserve
Nature reserve
A nature reserve is a protected area of importance for wildlife, flora, fauna or features of geological or other special interest, which is reserved and managed for conservation and to provide special opportunities for study or research...
s.
Nature and Geography
Kvarken
Kvarken is the narrow region in the Gulf of Bothnia separating the Bothnian Bay from the Bothnian Sea...
narrows between the Bothnian Sea
Bothnian Sea
The Bothnian Sea links the Bothnian Bay with the Baltic proper. Kvarken is situated between the two. Together, the Bothnian Sea and Bay make up a larger geographical entity, the Gulf of Bothnia...
to the south and the Bothnian Bay
Bothnian Bay
The Bothnian Bay or Bay of Bothnia is the most northern part of the Gulf of Bothnia, the northern part of the Baltic Sea. Its northernmost point is situated in Töre...
to the north. Holmöarna's nature is quite diverse with areas covered in forest, bog
Bog
A bog, quagmire or mire is a wetland that accumulates acidic peat, a deposit of dead plant material—often mosses or, in Arctic climates, lichens....
s and lake
Lake
A lake is a body of relatively still fresh or salt water of considerable size, localized in a basin, that is surrounded by land. Lakes are inland and not part of the ocean and therefore are distinct from lagoons, and are larger and deeper than ponds. Lakes can be contrasted with rivers or streams,...
s, and the islands have a rich birdlife. The islands' natural life is so special that the whole of Holmögadd, Stora Fjäderägg and Grossgrunden, nearly all of Ängesön and the eastern half of Holmön and all waters surrounding these have been protected as a nature reserve since 1980, incidentally the largest island
Archipelago
An archipelago , sometimes called an island group, is a chain or cluster of islands. The word archipelago is derived from the Greek ἄρχι- – arkhi- and πέλαγος – pélagos through the Italian arcipelago...
nature reserve in Sweden.
Many of the lakes and pools on Holmöarna are former bays and inlets which were severed from the sea due to the rising of the underlying land mass
Post-glacial rebound
Post-glacial rebound is the rise of land masses that were depressed by the huge weight of ice sheets during the last glacial period, through a process known as isostasy...
by about 8.5 mm (approx. ⅓") each year. Strandbjerget, the islands' highest point at 25.83 meters above sea level, is found at Holmöns northern end.
Holmön
Holmön is the main island of the group and is still largely covered in spruceSpruce
A spruce is a tree of the genus Picea , a genus of about 35 species of coniferous evergreen trees in the Family Pinaceae, found in the northern temperate and boreal regions of the earth. Spruces are large trees, from tall when mature, and can be distinguished by their whorled branches and conical...
forest. The preserved
Historic preservation
Historic preservation is an endeavor that seeks to preserve, conserve and protect buildings, objects, landscapes or other artifacts of historical significance...
main village of Holmö By is surrounded by open fields separated by narrow bands of woodland and stone walls with the occasional heap of cleared rocks
Glacial erratic
A glacial erratic is a piece of rock that differs from the size and type of rock native to the area in which it rests. "Erratics" take their name from the Latin word errare, and are carried by glacial ice, often over distances of hundreds of kilometres...
.
The main part of Holmö By was built alongside Hallen esker
Esker
An esker is a long winding ridge of stratified sand and gravel, examples of which occur in glaciated and formerly glaciated regions of Europe and North America...
, and about 20 farms adjoin the road leading south through cultivated moorland
Moorland
Moorland or moor is a type of habitat, in the temperate grasslands, savannas, and shrublands biome, found in upland areas, characterised by low-growing vegetation on acidic soils and heavy fog...
. The village has a church and primary school as well as a fire station
Fire station
A fire station is a structure or other area set aside for storage of firefighting apparatus , personal protective equipment, fire hose, fire extinguishers, and other fire extinguishing equipment...
and a trade cooperative offering groceries, alcoholic beverages and petrol as well as apothecary, library and postal services.
Hostel
Hostels provide budget oriented, sociable accommodation where guests can rent a bed, usually a bunk bed, in a dormitory and share a bathroom, lounge and sometimes a kitchen. Rooms can be mixed or single-sex, although private rooms may also be available...
. Berguddens fyrplats is a locality 3 km southwest of Byviken sporting a lighthouse from 1896 and some lighthouse keepers' cabins now converted to a hostel. Gäddbäckssundet ("Jäbbäckssundet" in local dialect) is a sound located to the southeast of Holmön, separating it from the island of Ängesön, and offering a secure anchorage.
Ängesön
Ängesön island is slightly bigger than Holmön, with lots of cut-off inlets, poolsPond
A pond is a body of standing water, either natural or man-made, that is usually smaller than a lake. A wide variety of man-made bodies of water are classified as ponds, including water gardens, water features and koi ponds; all designed for aesthetic ornamentation as landscape or architectural...
, and bogs from which reed
Reed bed
Reed beds are natural habitats found in floodplains, waterlogged depressions andestuaries. Reed beds are part of a succession from young reed colonising open water or wet ground through a gradation of increasingly dry ground...
used to be cut. The road leading from Byviken, through Holmö By, terminates near Grossgrunden on Ängesön's southern tip.
Grossgrunden
Grossgrunden (from Old NorseOld Norse
Old Norse is a North Germanic language that was spoken by inhabitants of Scandinavia and inhabitants of their overseas settlements during the Viking Age, until about 1300....
grjót meaning "rock" and grund meaning "bottom") was once an area of dangerous rocky shallows, but due to the post-glacial rebound
Post-glacial rebound
Post-glacial rebound is the rise of land masses that were depressed by the huge weight of ice sheets during the last glacial period, through a process known as isostasy...
it is now a proper island surrounded by outlying islet
Islet
An islet is a very small island.- Types :As suggested by its origin as islette, an Old French diminutive of "isle", use of the term implies small size, but little attention is given to drawing an upper limit on its applicability....
s.
Stora Fjäderägg
An islet northeast of Holmön with a lighthouse, bird conservation centre and a hostel.The island is an important resting point for migratory birds
Bird migration
Bird migration is the regular seasonal journey undertaken by many species of birds. Bird movements include those made in response to changes in food availability, habitat or weather. Sometimes, journeys are not termed "true migration" because they are irregular or in only one direction...
on their way to Asia
Asia
Asia is the world's largest and most populous continent, located primarily in the eastern and northern hemispheres. It covers 8.7% of the Earth's total surface area and with approximately 3.879 billion people, it hosts 60% of the world's current human population...
and Africa
Africa
Africa is the world's second largest and second most populous continent, after Asia. At about 30.2 million km² including adjacent islands, it covers 6% of the Earth's total surface area and 20.4% of the total land area...
. The southern half of the island has a number of ancient stone markings shaped in the form of labyrinth
Labyrinth
In Greek mythology, the Labyrinth was an elaborate structure designed and built by the legendary artificer Daedalus for King Minos of Crete at Knossos...
s and compass rose
Compass rose
A compass rose, sometimes called a windrose, is a figure on a compass, map, nautical chart or monument used to display the orientation of the cardinal directions — North, East, South and West - and their intermediate points. It is also the term for the graduated markings found on the traditional...
s, from the days Stora Fjäderägg was a fishing
Fishing
Fishing is the activity of trying to catch wild fish. Fish are normally caught in the wild. Techniques for catching fish include hand gathering, spearing, netting, angling and trapping....
and sealing
Seal hunting
Seal hunting, or sealing, is the personal or commercial hunting of seals. The hunt is currently practiced in five countries: Canada, where most of the world's seal hunting takes place, Namibia, the Danish region of Greenland, Norway and Russia...
base. The former lighthouse keeper's residence now houses a youth hostel.
Holmögadd
Holmögadd, separated from Grossgrunden by Gaddströmmen sound, forms the southernmost tip of the Holmöarna islands. The island is best known for its lighthouse named Holmögadd dating from 1770. The entire island was a military shooting range from 1940, which was recently dismantled.History
The islands played host to fishing and sealing parties from the moment the first islands broke the sea's surface around the start of the Christian era.- Around 1300 the seasonal hunters and fishers supposedly first settled permanently on the islands. This supposition is backed by a number of toponyms found in the islands.
- In 1543 King Gustav Vasa starts taxing the farming inhabitants of Holmöarna. Seven farms were found in the islands at that point.
- In 1698 the Umeå postmaster was ordered to have mail destined for FinlandFinlandFinland , officially the Republic of Finland, is a Nordic country situated in the Fennoscandian region of Northern Europe. It is bordered by Sweden in the west, Norway in the north and Russia in the east, while Estonia lies to its south across the Gulf of Finland.Around 5.4 million people reside...
taken across KvarkenKvarkenKvarken is the narrow region in the Gulf of Bothnia separating the Bothnian Bay from the Bothnian Sea...
by Holmöarna's inhabitants whenever weather conditions allowed. - In 1717 Holmön was plundered by the RussiaRussiaRussia or , officially known as both Russia and the Russian Federation , is a country in northern Eurasia. It is a federal semi-presidential republic, comprising 83 federal subjects...
ns. - In 1760 the first lighthouse of the KvarkenKvarkenKvarken is the narrow region in the Gulf of Bothnia separating the Bothnian Bay from the Bothnian Sea...
narrows was constructed on Holmögadd. - In 1802 the first church on Holmön, named Helena Elisabeth was built.
- In 1838 the current lighthouse on Holmögadd was built.
- In 1860 the Swedish RiksdagParliament of SwedenThe Riksdag is the national legislative assembly of Sweden. The riksdag is a unicameral assembly with 349 members , who are elected on a proportional basis to serve fixed terms of four years...
parliament voted to release the farming population from the duty to bring mail across KvarkenKvarkenKvarken is the narrow region in the Gulf of Bothnia separating the Bothnian Bay from the Bothnian Sea...
. - In 1891 Helena Elisabeth's church becomes too crowded and a new church designed by Fritz EckertFritz EckertFritz Eckert, Fritz Herman Vilhelm Eckert in full, was a Swedish architect, born 25 April 1852 in Stockholm, he died in 1920. Eckert attended the Royal Swedish Academy of Arts from 1871-1878 and spent 1879 travelling abroad. He was employed as an architect by Överintendentsämbetet in 1878 and was...
is built on Strandsberget hill. - In 1925 Holmön is designated a separate municipalityMunicipalityA municipality is essentially an urban administrative division having corporate status and usually powers of self-government. It can also be used to mean the governing body of a municipality. A municipality is a general-purpose administrative subdivision, as opposed to a special-purpose district...
. - In the 1930s regular ferry traffic was taken up between Holmön and Ostnäs in mainland Sweden.
- In 1956 the ferry's mainland port of call is moved to Norrfjärden.
- In 1957 Helena Elisabeth's church is moved to Gammlia open air museumOpen air museumAn open-air museum is a distinct type of museum exhibiting its collections out-of-doors. The first open-air museums were established in Scandinavia towards the end of the nineteenth century, and the concept soon spread throughout Europe and North America. Open-air museums are variously known as...
near Umeå. - From 1974 the islands are part of Umeå MunicipalityUmeå MunicipalityUmeå Municipality is a municipality in Västerbotten County in northern Sweden. Its seat is located in Umeå, which is also the county seat of Västerbotten County.-Administration:...
and stop being Sweden's smallest municipality. - In 1980 Holmöarna are designated a nature reserve. The reserve is Sweden's largest marine nature reserve.
- In 1983 the current ferry, named Helena Elisabeth, is put into service.
- In 1984 a birding centre is housed in the former lighthouse keeper's residence on Stora Fjäderägg.
- In 1994 the first Holmön Folk Festival (Visfestival Holmön) was held.
- In 1998 Holmön's Ship Museum is inaugurated.
- In 2001 a youth hostel was opened in the former lighthouse keeper's residence on Stora Fjäderägg.
Culture
- Postrodden is a yearly festival in memory of the duty imposed for centuries on the inhabitants of the Holmöarna and Björkö islands to bring mail and travellers across KvarkenKvarkenKvarken is the narrow region in the Gulf of Bothnia separating the Bothnian Bay from the Bothnian Sea...
. - Visfestival Holmön is a Folk FestivalFolk musicFolk music is an English term encompassing both traditional folk music and contemporary folk music. The term originated in the 19th century. Traditional folk music has been defined in several ways: as music transmitted by mouth, as music of the lower classes, and as music with unknown composers....
held in held every year in July since 1994.
Communications
Communications between Byviken and Norrfjärden on the mainland are carried out free of charge by a car ferry in the ice-free months or as long as the boat is able to break its own course through the ice. Once the ice has grown too thick to break, a hydrocopterHydrocopter
A hydrocopter is an amphibious aircraft-propelled catamaran. The vehicle has a boat-like hull, small wheels and pontoon skids . An aircraft engine with aircraft propeller and air rudder pushes the hydrocopter across water, ice, snow and land.It is very useful in arctic coastal regions during...
is put to use, but being susceptible to pervading winds, it is often replaced with a helicopter
Helicopter
A helicopter is a type of rotorcraft in which lift and thrust are supplied by one or more engine-driven rotors. This allows the helicopter to take off and land vertically, to hover, and to fly forwards, backwards, and laterally...
service. The ferry ride to the islands takes approximately 45 minutes.
From time to time Holmöslupen, a reconstructed sloop
Sloop
A sloop is a sail boat with a fore-and-aft rig and a single mast farther forward than the mast of a cutter....
as was once common along the coast of Västerbotten
Västerbotten County
Västerbotten County is a county or län in the north of Sweden. It borders the counties of Västernorrland, Jämtland, and Norrbotten, as well as the Norwegian county of Nordland and the Gulf of Bothnia.- Provinces :...
, sails between Byviken and Stora Fjäderägg accepting passengers.