Julien's Restorator
Encyclopedia
Julien's Restorator was a restaurant in Boston
, Massachusetts
, established by French-born Jean Baptiste Gilbert Payplat dis Julien. It was one of the first restaurants in Boston; previous public eating-rooms were in "taverns or boarding houses."
.
The Restorator opened in July 1793: "a resort where the infirm in health, the convalescent, and those whose attention to studious business occasions a lassitude of nature; can obtain the most suitable nourishment. ... Spirits are not to be used; ... and all gaming is disallowed. ... Excellent wines and cordials, good soups and broths, pastry in all its delicious variety, alamode beef, bacon, poultry, and generally, all other refreshing viands, will be kept in due preparation: and a bill of fare will be kept ... from which each visitor may command whatever may best suit his appetite."
The business first stood on Congress Street "opposite the Quaker's meeting house" in the Financial District, then in 1794 settled on Milk Street
(corner of Congress St.) in "the house lately occupied by Mr. Thomas Clements." The building had been erected in 1670-1671 by Henry Bridgham. Julien's was "agreeably situated to receive the fresh air -- which is so necessary for the convalescent and strangers." The establishment was referred to as "Julien's," the "Boston Restorator," "Mr. Julien's French Restorator," "Julien's Restorator," or "The Restorator."
According to food historians Julien's "public eating house ... was famous for his soups and stews, and he was nicknamed the Prince of Soups.' He is credited with introducing to America the julienne
soup, a composition of vegetables in long, narrow strips. Julien specialized in making turtle soup
." Julien's advertisements for the soup emphasized medical justifications: "Turtle soup. Much has been said on its efficacy in purifying the blood by Tissot
in his celebrated dissertation on the subject, and by Buffon
, the great naturalist, who discovered the beneficial nature of amphibious animals. Those who use this soup must not expect that it be made strong with spice, but from ingredients clear and light." "Many celebrated physicians have recommended it. ... As the first establishment of a restorator in Paris was not for Epicurians
-- but for the benefit of those invalids who stood in need of light substance, nourishing and strengthening to their stomacks, it was recommended for the purpose by the Academy in Paris. Citizens of the above description are invited to call and try the virtue of Julien's turtle soup." Julien stressed the healthiness of other items available to his patrons, such as "Naples cordials, syrup of vinegar, syrup of orgeat
, and white Bourdeaux wine, all of which are calculated for strengthening and invigorating the system of nature during the heat of summer."
The particulars of Julien's style of business and its inspiration to competitors resonated culturally, for example in a literary spoof in the New England Palladium newspaper, 1801:
Events that took place at the Restorator included a July 4th
dinner of the "officers of the first regiment" in 1798; and anniversary celebrations of the Boston Franklin Typographical Association, 1803-1805.
Julien died in 1805, and was buried in the Central Burying Ground
. His wife Hannah Julien continued at the Restorator through at least 1813. Around 1816 it was "continued under the management of a countryman of Mr. Julien," Frederick Rouillard, until 1823. The building was demolished in 1824, and in 1825 Edward H. Robbins built on the old site of the Restorator a multi-functional assembly space, Julien Hall
, named in honor of the now-defunct restaurant.
Boston
Boston is the capital of and largest city in Massachusetts, and is one of the oldest cities in the United States. The largest city in New England, Boston is regarded as the unofficial "Capital of New England" for its economic and cultural impact on the entire New England region. The city proper had...
, Massachusetts
Massachusetts
The Commonwealth of Massachusetts is a state in the New England region of the northeastern United States of America. It is bordered by Rhode Island and Connecticut to the south, New York to the west, and Vermont and New Hampshire to the north; at its east lies the Atlantic Ocean. As of the 2010...
, established by French-born Jean Baptiste Gilbert Payplat dis Julien. It was one of the first restaurants in Boston; previous public eating-rooms were in "taverns or boarding houses."
History
Julien moved to the United States "as cook to the celebrated Dubuque, who was a refugee from the French Revolution." Prior to 1793, Julien had served as "steward to the Hon. M. LeTombe, consul of the French Republic." Other friends and associates included Jean Anthelme Brillat-SavarinJean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin
Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin was a French lawyer and politician, and gained fame as an epicure and gastronome: "Grimod and Brillat-Savarin...
.
The Restorator opened in July 1793: "a resort where the infirm in health, the convalescent, and those whose attention to studious business occasions a lassitude of nature; can obtain the most suitable nourishment. ... Spirits are not to be used; ... and all gaming is disallowed. ... Excellent wines and cordials, good soups and broths, pastry in all its delicious variety, alamode beef, bacon, poultry, and generally, all other refreshing viands, will be kept in due preparation: and a bill of fare will be kept ... from which each visitor may command whatever may best suit his appetite."
The business first stood on Congress Street "opposite the Quaker's meeting house" in the Financial District, then in 1794 settled on Milk Street
Milk Street
Milk Street is a street in the financial district of Boston, Massachusetts.Milk Street was one of Boston's earliest highways. The name "Milk Street" was given to the street in 1708 due to the milk market at the location...
(corner of Congress St.) in "the house lately occupied by Mr. Thomas Clements." The building had been erected in 1670-1671 by Henry Bridgham. Julien's was "agreeably situated to receive the fresh air -- which is so necessary for the convalescent and strangers." The establishment was referred to as "Julien's," the "Boston Restorator," "Mr. Julien's French Restorator," "Julien's Restorator," or "The Restorator."
According to food historians Julien's "public eating house ... was famous for his soups and stews, and he was nicknamed the Prince of Soups.' He is credited with introducing to America the julienne
Julienning
Julienne is a culinary knife cut in which the food item is cut into long thin strips, not unlike matchsticks. Sometimes called 'shoe string', e.g. 'shoestring fries'...
soup, a composition of vegetables in long, narrow strips. Julien specialized in making turtle soup
Turtle soup
Turtle soup is soup or stews made from the flesh of the turtle. The dish exists in many cultures and is viewed as a luxury or delicacy.The green turtle was commonly used for turtle soup in the United States and United Kingdom. Soup made from the snapping turtle was found mainly in the United States...
." Julien's advertisements for the soup emphasized medical justifications: "Turtle soup. Much has been said on its efficacy in purifying the blood by Tissot
Samuel-Auguste Tissot
Samuel Auguste André David Tissot was a notable 18th century Swiss physician.A well reputed Swiss-Catholic neurologist, physician, professor and Vatican adviser who practiced in the Swiss city of Lausanne...
in his celebrated dissertation on the subject, and by Buffon
Georges-Louis Leclerc, Comte de Buffon
Georges-Louis Leclerc, Comte de Buffon was a French naturalist, mathematician, cosmologist, and encyclopedic author.His works influenced the next two generations of naturalists, including Jean-Baptiste Lamarck and Georges Cuvier...
, the great naturalist, who discovered the beneficial nature of amphibious animals. Those who use this soup must not expect that it be made strong with spice, but from ingredients clear and light." "Many celebrated physicians have recommended it. ... As the first establishment of a restorator in Paris was not for Epicurians
Epicureanism
Epicureanism is a system of philosophy based upon the teachings of Epicurus, founded around 307 BC. Epicurus was an atomic materialist, following in the steps of Democritus. His materialism led him to a general attack on superstition and divine intervention. Following Aristippus—about whom...
-- but for the benefit of those invalids who stood in need of light substance, nourishing and strengthening to their stomacks, it was recommended for the purpose by the Academy in Paris. Citizens of the above description are invited to call and try the virtue of Julien's turtle soup." Julien stressed the healthiness of other items available to his patrons, such as "Naples cordials, syrup of vinegar, syrup of orgeat
Orgeat syrup
Orgeat syrup is a sweet syrup made from almonds, sugar and rose water or orange flower water. It was, however, originally made with a barley-almond blend...
, and white Bourdeaux wine, all of which are calculated for strengthening and invigorating the system of nature during the heat of summer."
The particulars of Julien's style of business and its inspiration to competitors resonated culturally, for example in a literary spoof in the New England Palladium newspaper, 1801:
"In imitation of Mr. Julien, I mean to open a house of public entertainment, where every intellectual epicure may be gratified with his favourite dish. The moralist shall be feasted with ethics, the philologist with criticism, and the weak and delicate palates of beaus and ladies shall be indulged with remarks on dress and fashion. After the sumptuous repasts afforded by the TatlerTatlerTatler has been the name of several British journals and magazines, each of which has viewed itself as the successor of the original literary and society journal founded by Richard Steele in 1709. The current incarnation, founded in 1901, is a glossy magazine published by Condé Nast Publications...
, Spectator, Guardian, Rambler, &c. every succeeding candidate for public favour, in this province, must appear to disadvantage; nor have I the presumption to imagine, that I can produce any thing which can vie, in point of excellence, with the choice dishes of those able caterers. But as the situation and habits of the new world differ considerably from those of the old, if I should be so fortunate as to hit the taste of my customers, I shall have no mean opinion of my cookery. ..."
Events that took place at the Restorator included a July 4th
Independence Day (United States)
Independence Day, commonly known as the Fourth of July, is a federal holiday in the United States commemorating the adoption of the Declaration of Independence on July 4, 1776, declaring independence from the Kingdom of Great Britain...
dinner of the "officers of the first regiment" in 1798; and anniversary celebrations of the Boston Franklin Typographical Association, 1803-1805.
Julien died in 1805, and was buried in the Central Burying Ground
Central Burying Ground (Boston, Massachusetts)
The Central Burying Ground in Boston, Massachusetts was established on the Common in 1756. It is located at the corner of Boylston Street and Tremont Street...
. His wife Hannah Julien continued at the Restorator through at least 1813. Around 1816 it was "continued under the management of a countryman of Mr. Julien," Frederick Rouillard, until 1823. The building was demolished in 1824, and in 1825 Edward H. Robbins built on the old site of the Restorator a multi-functional assembly space, Julien Hall
Julien Hall (Boston)
Julien Hall was a building in Boston, Massachusetts, on the corner of Congress Street and Milk Street. It flourished 1825-1843, housing a variety of public events such as lectures by Red Jacket, William Lloyd Garrison; temperance meetings; political meetings; auctions; exhibitions of live animals,...
, named in honor of the now-defunct restaurant.
Further reading
- Arthur W. Brayley. "An originator of soups." Boston Cooking School Magazine. v.10, no.9, April 1906. Google books
- Samuel Adams Drake. Old Boston taverns and tavern clubs, illus. ed. Boston: W. A. Butterfield, 1917. Google books
External links
- Boston Athenaeum. 1796 drawing by Samuel Dearborn of Milk St. and vicinity, depicting Julien's and other buildings