Action Directe (climb)
Encyclopedia
Action Directe is a famously difficult sport climb
in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Milan Sykora bolted this line in the 80's. The first ascent
(FA) was by Wolfgang Güllich
in 1991, who climbed the route using a 16 move sequence. Simpson and Koyamada used a different sequence with only 11 moves.
The repeat ascents were by:
While being generally recognized as the world's first 9a
(5.14d), Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA
grade of XI.
It was the first recognised route of the grade, and is considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It is also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off single-finger pockets. Wolfgang Güllich
invented the campus board
to train the very specific technique needed for this route.
INTERVIEWS
Sport climbing
Sport climbing is a form of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock, and possibly bolts, for protection,...
in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Milan Sykora bolted this line in the 80's. The first ascent
First ascent
In climbing, a first ascent is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route...
(FA) was by Wolfgang Güllich
Wolfgang Güllich
Wolfgang Güllich , was born in Ludwigshafen, Germany, and is widely considered to be one of the best sport climbers in history.He first started climbing on the Sandstone-rocks of the 'Südpfalz'...
in 1991, who climbed the route using a 16 move sequence. Simpson and Koyamada used a different sequence with only 11 moves.
The repeat ascents were by:
- Alexander Adler on 9 September 1995.
- Iker Pou on 7 June 2000.
- Dave Graham on 21 May 2001.
- Christian Bindhammer on 14 May 2003.
- Rich Simpson on 13 October 2005 (his ascent has been questioned by UKC).
- Dai KoyamadaDai KoyamadaDai Koyamada is a Japanese rock climber. Not only is he one of the premier boulderers of his generation, he has also put up or repeated hard sport climbs.*He was born on 23 August 1976 in Kagoshima and has been climbing since 1993....
on 15 October 2005. - Markus Bock on 22 October 2005.
- Kilian Fischhuber on 25 September 2006.
- Adam OndraAdam OndraAdam Ondra is a Czech rock climber. He also participates in lead climbing and bouldering competitions.-Biography:...
on 19 May 2008. - Patxi Usobiaga on 24 October 2008.
- Gabriele Moroni on 17 April 2010.
- Jan Hojer on 22 Mai 2010.
- Adam Pustelnik on 10 October 2010.
- Felix Knaub on 22 October 2011.
While being generally recognized as the world's first 9a
Grade (climbing)
In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
(5.14d), Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA
Grade (climbing)
In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
grade of XI.
It was the first recognised route of the grade, and is considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It is also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off single-finger pockets. Wolfgang Güllich
Wolfgang Güllich
Wolfgang Güllich , was born in Ludwigshafen, Germany, and is widely considered to be one of the best sport climbers in history.He first started climbing on the Sandstone-rocks of the 'Südpfalz'...
invented the campus board
Campus board
A campus board is a training tool that has been widely adopted to improve rock climbing performance. Typically, a user ascends or descends the campus board using only their hands. Campus boards can take a variety of different forms and may incorporate a variety of materials...
to train the very specific technique needed for this route.
External links
- 2nd ascent by Alexander Adler
- 3rd ascent by Iker Pou
- 4th ascent by Dave Graham
- 5th ascent by Christhian Bindhammer
- 6th ascent by Rich Simpson
- 7th ascent by Dai Koyamada
- 8th ascent by Markus Bock
- 9th ascent by Kilian Fischhuber
- 10th ascent by Adam Ondra
- 11th ascent by Patxi Usobiaga
INTERVIEWS