Adolphe Dugléré
Encyclopedia
Adolphe Dugléré (born Bordeaux
, June 3, 1805 - died Paris April 4, 1884) was a French chef
and a pupil of Carême
.
until 1848, and was manager at the restaurant Les Frères Provençaux at the Palais-Royal from 1848 to 1866 which was owned by three men from Provence
named Barthélémy, Maneille and Simonas (who were, in reality, not brothers).
.
It was here in 1867 that Dugléré served a famous meal that became known as the Dîner des trois empereurs, ('Dinner of the Three Emperors') for Tsar Alexander II of Russia, his son the tsarevitch (who later became Tsar Alexander III) and King William I of Prussia, as well as Prince Otto von Bismarck
who were in Paris for L'Exposition Universelle. The table service used for this meal is on display to this day at the oldest existing restaurant in Paris, La Tour d'Argent which is owned by the descendants of Claudius Burdet, the last owner of Café Anglais which was demolished in 1913.
. Other dishes created by Dugléré include Potage Germiny, a sorrel soup created for the Count of Germany, governor of the Bank of France, Poularde Albufera
, dedicated to Maréchal Suchet, Duke of Albufera, Soufflé à l'anglaise,In response to an inquiry, Restaurant de la Tour d'Argent, the current trustees of Dugleré's papers, replied that he left no record of the ingredients in this dish. Sole Dugléré and Culotte de bœuf Salomon, (dedicated to Salomon de Rothschild) and Barbue à la Dugléré (brill in tomato and parsley sauce).
He is also credited with inventing Tournedos Rossini
, but this dish has also been credited to both Escoffier
as well as Carême (although not the title itself). It was composer Gioachino Rossini who dubbed Dugléré Le Mozart de la cuisine (The Mozart of the Kitchen). Legend has it that on one occasion Rossini was in the restaurant and asked that Dugléré prepare his filet at his table in a chafing dish. Dugléré made some excuse and Rossini is reported to have said, "Eh bien, faites-le tourné de l'autre coté, tournez-moi le dos!" ("Alright, do it somewhere else. Turn your back on me!") However, the OED gives a number of different claims for the origin of the term tournedos.
Little more is known about him because he left no publications but he did leave some notebooks which are on permanent loan to the National Library in Paris. On his death in 1884, the French press was unanimous in eulogizing him.
, minced onion and shallot
s and chopped parsley. It is served with a beurre blanc
consisting of the cooking liquid mounted with butter.
À la Dugléré indicates a garnish of shallots, onions and tomatoes.
Bordeaux
Bordeaux is a port city on the Garonne River in the Gironde department in southwestern France.The Bordeaux-Arcachon-Libourne metropolitan area, has a population of 1,010,000 and constitutes the sixth-largest urban area in France. It is the capital of the Aquitaine region, as well as the prefecture...
, June 3, 1805 - died Paris April 4, 1884) was a French chef
Chef
A chef is a person who cooks professionally for other people. Although over time the term has come to describe any person who cooks for a living, traditionally it refers to a highly skilled professional who is proficient in all aspects of food preparation.-Etymology:The word "chef" is borrowed ...
and a pupil of Carême
Marie-Antoine Carême
Marie Antoine Carême , known as the "King of Chefs, and the Chef of Kings" was an early practitioner and exponent of the elaborate style of cooking known as haute cuisine, the "high art" of French cooking: a grandiose style of cookery favored by both international royalty and by the newly rich of...
.
Les Frères Provençaux
Dugléré was a chef de cuisine to the Rothschild familyRothschild family
The Rothschild family , known as The House of Rothschild, or more simply as the Rothschilds, is a Jewish-German family that established European banking and finance houses starting in the late 18th century...
until 1848, and was manager at the restaurant Les Frères Provençaux at the Palais-Royal from 1848 to 1866 which was owned by three men from Provence
Provence
Provence ; Provençal: Provença in classical norm or Prouvènço in Mistralian norm) is a region of south eastern France on the Mediterranean adjacent to Italy. It is part of the administrative région of Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur...
named Barthélémy, Maneille and Simonas (who were, in reality, not brothers).
Café Anglais
In 1866 he became the head chef of the Café Anglais which was the most famous Paris restaurant of the 19th century and where he is believed to have created the dish Pommes AnnaPommes Anna
Pommes Anna or Anna potatoes, is a classic French dish of sliced, layered potatoes cooked in a very large amount of melted butter.The recipe calls for firm-fleshed potatoes and butter only. Potatoes are peeled and sliced very thin. The slices, salted and peppered, are layered into a pan ,...
.
Dinner of the Three Emperors
Otto von Bismarck
Otto Eduard Leopold, Prince of Bismarck, Duke of Lauenburg , simply known as Otto von Bismarck, was a Prussian-German statesman whose actions unified Germany, made it a major player in world affairs, and created a balance of power that kept Europe at peace after 1871.As Minister President of...
who were in Paris for L'Exposition Universelle. The table service used for this meal is on display to this day at the oldest existing restaurant in Paris, La Tour d'Argent which is owned by the descendants of Claudius Burdet, the last owner of Café Anglais which was demolished in 1913.
Dishes
The most famous dish attributed to Dugléré is almost certainly Pommes AnnaPommes Anna
Pommes Anna or Anna potatoes, is a classic French dish of sliced, layered potatoes cooked in a very large amount of melted butter.The recipe calls for firm-fleshed potatoes and butter only. Potatoes are peeled and sliced very thin. The slices, salted and peppered, are layered into a pan ,...
. Other dishes created by Dugléré include Potage Germiny, a sorrel soup created for the Count of Germany, governor of the Bank of France, Poularde Albufera
Poularde Albufera
Poularde Albufera, is a chicken dish attributed to French chef Adolphe Dugléré which was named in honour of the Duke of Albufera. It consists of poached chicken with a garnish of vol-au-vents filled with quenelles, cocks' kidneys, mushrooms and truffles in Albufera sauce....
, dedicated to Maréchal Suchet, Duke of Albufera, Soufflé à l'anglaise,In response to an inquiry, Restaurant de la Tour d'Argent, the current trustees of Dugleré's papers, replied that he left no record of the ingredients in this dish. Sole Dugléré and Culotte de bœuf Salomon, (dedicated to Salomon de Rothschild) and Barbue à la Dugléré (brill in tomato and parsley sauce).
He is also credited with inventing Tournedos Rossini
Tournedos Rossini
Tournedos Rossini is a French steak dish, purportedly created for the composer Gioachino Rossini by Auguste Escoffier, although the identity of the creator of the dish remains a matter of dispute. The dish comprises a tournedos of beef, pan-fried in butter, served on a crouton, and topped with a...
, but this dish has also been credited to both Escoffier
Auguste Escoffier
Georges Auguste Escoffier was a French chef, restaurateur and culinary writer who popularized and updated traditional French cooking methods. He is a legendary figure among chefs and gourmands, and was one of the most important leaders in the development of modern French cuisine...
as well as Carême (although not the title itself). It was composer Gioachino Rossini who dubbed Dugléré Le Mozart de la cuisine (The Mozart of the Kitchen). Legend has it that on one occasion Rossini was in the restaurant and asked that Dugléré prepare his filet at his table in a chafing dish. Dugléré made some excuse and Rossini is reported to have said, "Eh bien, faites-le tourné de l'autre coté, tournez-moi le dos!" ("Alright, do it somewhere else. Turn your back on me!") However, the OED gives a number of different claims for the origin of the term tournedos.
Métier
He was described as a taciturn and serious person who demanded ingredients of the highest quality and abhorred drunkenness and smoking. He forbade his employees to smoke even outside of the workplace. Neither were customers allowed to smoke until dinner was over, at which time the maître d’hôtel went from table to table lighting cigars. He was a cultivated man and Alexandre Dumas consulted him several times for his Le Grand Dictionnaire de cuisine (1871).Little more is known about him because he left no publications but he did leave some notebooks which are on permanent loan to the National Library in Paris. On his death in 1884, the French press was unanimous in eulogizing him.
Recipes and Garnishes
Sole à la Dugléré consists of fish poached in stock fish fumet with white wine on a bed of tomates concasséesConcasse
Concasse, from the French 'concasser', to crush or grind, is a cooking term meaning to rough chop any ingredient, usually vegetables. This term is most specifically applied to tomatoes, with tomato concasse being a tomato that has been peeled, seeded , and chopped to specified dimensions...
, minced onion and shallot
Shallot
The shallot is the botanical variety of Allium cepa to which the multiplier onion also belongs. It was formerly classified as the species A. ascalonicum, a name now considered a synonym of the correct name...
s and chopped parsley. It is served with a beurre blanc
Beurre blanc
Beurre blanc —literally translated from French as "white butter"— is a hot emulsified butter sauce made with a reduction of vinegar and/or white wine and grey shallots into which cold, whole butter is blended off the heat to prevent separation. The small amounts of lecithin and other emulsifiers...
consisting of the cooking liquid mounted with butter.
À la Dugléré indicates a garnish of shallots, onions and tomatoes.