Alexander Mitchell Kellas
Encyclopedia
Alexander Mitchell Kellas (died 1921) was a Scottish
chemist
, explorer, and mountaineer
known for his studies of high-altitude
physiology
. He was born in Aberdeen, Scotland.
Himalayan Club Vice President Meher Mehta characterized Kellas' papers A Consideration of the Possibility of Ascending the Loftier Himalaya and A Consideration of the Possibility of Ascending Mt Everest as "key catalysts in driving scientific thinking into climbing big peaks. His studies included the physiology of acclimatization in relationship to important variables like altitude, barometric pressures, alveolar PO2, arterial oxygen saturation, maximum oxygen consumption, and ascent rates at different altitudes. He had concluded that Mt Everest could be ascended by men of extreme physical and mental constitution without supplementary oxygen if the physical difficulties of the mountain were not too great."
In 1978, Kellas' suggestion was verified by Reinhold Messner
and Peter Habeler
when they made the first ascent of Mount Everest
without artificial oxygen
. However, Kellas was also one of the earliest scientists to suggest use of artificial oxygen on high mountains such as Mount Everest; the first ascent of Everest and most subsequent ascents (as well as some ascents of lower peaks) have done so. A distant relative (Simon Kellas) is now employed by The Physiological Society (UK).
Kellas was also a noted mountaineer in his own right. He had made at least ten first ascents of peaks over 6,1000 m (20,000 ft) including Pauhunri
, 7,128 m (23,386 ft), in Sikkim
, which was the highest peak climbed up to that point, although this was only discovered later. He reached the summit on 14 June 1911, and this world summit record
was only broken in 1930.
Kellas died of a heart attack
in 1921 on his way from Sikkim to the first expedition to Everest. He had had only a brief rest of 9 days after an arduous expedition to Kabru
.
Scotland
Scotland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Occupying the northern third of the island of Great Britain, it shares a border with England to the south and is bounded by the North Sea to the east, the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, and the North Channel and Irish Sea to the...
chemist
Chemistry
Chemistry is the science of matter, especially its chemical reactions, but also its composition, structure and properties. Chemistry is concerned with atoms and their interactions with other atoms, and particularly with the properties of chemical bonds....
, explorer, and mountaineer
Mountaineering
Mountaineering or mountain climbing is the sport, hobby or profession of hiking, skiing, and climbing mountains. While mountaineering began as attempts to reach the highest point of unclimbed mountains it has branched into specialisations that address different aspects of the mountain and consists...
known for his studies of high-altitude
Altitude
Altitude or height is defined based on the context in which it is used . As a general definition, altitude is a distance measurement, usually in the vertical or "up" direction, between a reference datum and a point or object. The reference datum also often varies according to the context...
physiology
Physiology
Physiology is the science of the function of living systems. This includes how organisms, organ systems, organs, cells, and bio-molecules carry out the chemical or physical functions that exist in a living system. The highest honor awarded in physiology is the Nobel Prize in Physiology or...
. He was born in Aberdeen, Scotland.
Himalayan Club Vice President Meher Mehta characterized Kellas' papers A Consideration of the Possibility of Ascending the Loftier Himalaya and A Consideration of the Possibility of Ascending Mt Everest as "key catalysts in driving scientific thinking into climbing big peaks. His studies included the physiology of acclimatization in relationship to important variables like altitude, barometric pressures, alveolar PO2, arterial oxygen saturation, maximum oxygen consumption, and ascent rates at different altitudes. He had concluded that Mt Everest could be ascended by men of extreme physical and mental constitution without supplementary oxygen if the physical difficulties of the mountain were not too great."
In 1978, Kellas' suggestion was verified by Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Messner is an Italian mountaineer and explorer from Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol "whose astonishing feats on Everest and on peaks throughout the world have earned him the status of the greatest climber in history." He is renowned for making the first solo ascent of Mount Everest without...
and Peter Habeler
Peter Habeler
Peter Habeler is an Austrian mountaineer. He was born in Mayrhofen, Austria.Among his accomplishments as a mountaineer are his first ascents in the Rocky Mountains. He was also the first European to climb on the Big Walls in Yosemite National Park.He began climbing with Reinhold Messner in 1969. ...
when they made the first ascent of Mount Everest
Mount Everest
Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...
without artificial oxygen
Oxygen
Oxygen is the element with atomic number 8 and represented by the symbol O. Its name derives from the Greek roots ὀξύς and -γενής , because at the time of naming, it was mistakenly thought that all acids required oxygen in their composition...
. However, Kellas was also one of the earliest scientists to suggest use of artificial oxygen on high mountains such as Mount Everest; the first ascent of Everest and most subsequent ascents (as well as some ascents of lower peaks) have done so. A distant relative (Simon Kellas) is now employed by The Physiological Society (UK).
Kellas was also a noted mountaineer in his own right. He had made at least ten first ascents of peaks over 6,1000 m (20,000 ft) including Pauhunri
Pauhunri
Pauhunri is a mountain in the Eastern Himalayas. It is located on the border of Sikkim, India and Tibet, China, and is situated about 75 km northeast of Kangchenjunga....
, 7,128 m (23,386 ft), in Sikkim
Sikkim
Sikkim is a landlocked Indian state nestled in the Himalayan mountains...
, which was the highest peak climbed up to that point, although this was only discovered later. He reached the summit on 14 June 1911, and this world summit record
World altitude record (mountaineering)
In the history of mountaineering, the world altitude record referred to the highest point on the Earth's surface which had been reached, regardless of whether that point was an actual summit. The world summit record referred to the highest mountain to have been successfully climbed...
was only broken in 1930.
Kellas died of a heart attack
Myocardial infarction
Myocardial infarction or acute myocardial infarction , commonly known as a heart attack, results from the interruption of blood supply to a part of the heart, causing heart cells to die...
in 1921 on his way from Sikkim to the first expedition to Everest. He had had only a brief rest of 9 days after an arduous expedition to Kabru
Kabru
Kabru is a mountain in the Himalayas on the border of India and eastern Nepal. It is part of a ridge that extends south from Kangchenjunga.The main features of this ridge are as follows :* Kangchenjunga south top, 8476 m, at...
.