Anti-aging cream
Encyclopedia
Anti-aging creams are predominantly moisturiser
based cosmeceutical
skin care products marketed with the promise of making the consumer look younger by reducing visible wrinkle
s, expression lines, blemishes, pigmentation changes, discolourations and other environmentally (especially from the sun) related conditions of the skin. A comprehensive grading scale for anti-aging of the skin has been validated and categorizes skin aging as: laxity (sagging), rhytids (wrinkles), and the various categories of photoaging, including erythema (redness), dyspigmentation (brown discolorations), solar elastosis (yellowing), keratoses (abnormal growths), and poor texture.
Despite great demand, many such products and treatments have not been proven to give lasting or major positive effects. One study found that the best performing creams reduced wrinkles by less than 10% over 12 weeks which is not noticeable to the human eye. Another study found that cheap moisturisers were as effective as high-priced anti-wrinkle creams. However, recent studies at Manchester University showed that some ingredients have an effect.
Traditionally, anti-aging creams have been marketed towards women, but products specifically targeting men are increasingly common.
The effects of these ingredients depends on their concentration and mode of application. Many skin care companies recommend using a treatment programme which may combine these ingredients. For example, AHAs can make the skin more vulnerable to damage from the sun, so the increased use of sunscreens is often recommended.
Mechanical exfoliation is an alternative to chemical peels using ingredients such as crushed apricot kernals, salt, sponges or brushes.
Advertising sometimes presents anti-aging creams as an alternative to plastic surgery
and botox injections, which may be more costly and invasive treatments.
Moisturizer
Moisturizers or emollients are complex mixtures of chemical agents specially designed to make the external layers of the skin softer and more pliable, by increasing its hydration by reducing evaporation. Naturally occurring skin lipids and sterols as well as artificial or natural oils,...
based cosmeceutical
Cosmeceutical
Cosmeceuticals refers to the combination of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with biologically active ingredients purporting to have medical or drug-like benefits....
skin care products marketed with the promise of making the consumer look younger by reducing visible wrinkle
Wrinkle
A wrinkle is a fold, ridge or crease in the skin. Skin wrinkles typically appear as a result of aging processes such as glycation or, temporarily, as the result of prolonged immersion in water. Wrinkling in the skin is caused by habitual facial expressions, aging, sun damage, smoking, poor...
s, expression lines, blemishes, pigmentation changes, discolourations and other environmentally (especially from the sun) related conditions of the skin. A comprehensive grading scale for anti-aging of the skin has been validated and categorizes skin aging as: laxity (sagging), rhytids (wrinkles), and the various categories of photoaging, including erythema (redness), dyspigmentation (brown discolorations), solar elastosis (yellowing), keratoses (abnormal growths), and poor texture.
Despite great demand, many such products and treatments have not been proven to give lasting or major positive effects. One study found that the best performing creams reduced wrinkles by less than 10% over 12 weeks which is not noticeable to the human eye. Another study found that cheap moisturisers were as effective as high-priced anti-wrinkle creams. However, recent studies at Manchester University showed that some ingredients have an effect.
Traditionally, anti-aging creams have been marketed towards women, but products specifically targeting men are increasingly common.
Ingredients
As well as more conventional moisturising ingredients, anti-aging creams usually contain anti-aging ingredients such as:- RetinolRetinolRetinol is one of the animal forms of vitamin A. It is a diterpenoid and an alcohol. It is convertible to other forms of vitamin A, and the retinyl ester derivative of the alcohol serves as the storage form of the vitamin in animals....
(for instance, in the form of retinyl palmitateRetinyl palmitateRetinyl palmitate, or vitamin A palmitate, is the ester of retinol and palmitic acid, with formula C36H60O2.Palmitate is the major component of palm oil...
). In various formulations it has been shown to reduce fine lines and pores. - Epidermal Growth FactorEpidermal growth factorEpidermal growth factor or EGF is a growth factor that plays an important role in the regulation of cell growth, proliferation, and differentiation by binding to its receptor EGFR...
, made of 53 amino acids to stimulate cell renewal and CollagenCollagenCollagen is a group of naturally occurring proteins found in animals, especially in the flesh and connective tissues of mammals. It is the main component of connective tissue, and is the most abundant protein in mammals, making up about 25% to 35% of the whole-body protein content...
production in the skin and strengthen elasticity and structure. The discovery of Epidermal Growth Factor won Dr. Stanley Cohen a Nobel Prize in Physiology and Medicine in 1986. In various research Epidermal Growth Factor has been shown to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and sagging. It also has healing (wounds and burns) and anti-inflammatory properties when applied to skin. - Alpha hydroxy acidAlpha hydroxy acidα-Hydroxy acids, or alpha hydroxy acids , are a class of chemical compounds that consist of a carboxylic acid substituted with a hydroxyl group on the adjacent carbon. They may be either naturally occurring or synthetic. AHAs are well-known for their use in the cosmetics industry...
s (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acidBeta hydroxy acidA beta hydroxy acid or β-hydroxy acid is an organic compound that contains a carboxylic acid functional group and hydroxy functional group separated by two carbon atoms...
s or other chemical peels. These help to dissolve the intracellular "glue" that holds the dead cells together on the skin. The use of this type of product on a daily basis gradually enhances the exfoliationExfoliationExfoliation has several meanings:* Exfoliation describes the loss of leaves from a plant.* Exfoliation , is a cosmetic technique aimed at removing dead skin cells from the face and body....
of the epidermis. This exposes newer skin cells and can help improve appearance. AHAs may irritate some skin, causing redness and flaking. - Peptides, such as ArgirelineArgirelineAcetyl hexapeptide-3 is a synthetic anti-wrinkle cosmetics ingredient. It is a peptide which is a shortened version of Botulinum toxin...
(acetyl hexapeptide-3), Matryxil, and copper peptidesCopper peptide GHK-CuThe copper peptide GHK-Cu is a naturally occurring copper complex of a glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine peptide. Since it has three amino acids it is called tripeptide. The GHK-Cu tripeptide has strong affinity for copper and was first isolated from human plasma. It can be found also in saliva and...
. - Coenzyme Q10
- Anti-oxidants are substances that may protect cells from the damage caused by unstable molecules known as free radicals.
- Sunscreens. A high level of UVA protection is recommended as UVA radiation is associated with aging effects such as wrinkles.
- Vitamin CVitamin CVitamin C or L-ascorbic acid or L-ascorbate is an essential nutrient for humans and certain other animal species. In living organisms ascorbate acts as an antioxidant by protecting the body against oxidative stress...
. Supposedly one of the most effective and commonly included ingredient in wrinkle creams, also known to help the healing process.
The effects of these ingredients depends on their concentration and mode of application. Many skin care companies recommend using a treatment programme which may combine these ingredients. For example, AHAs can make the skin more vulnerable to damage from the sun, so the increased use of sunscreens is often recommended.
Alternative approaches
Traditional moisturisers or sunscreens may provide many of the same benefits as some anti-aging creams.Mechanical exfoliation is an alternative to chemical peels using ingredients such as crushed apricot kernals, salt, sponges or brushes.
Advertising sometimes presents anti-aging creams as an alternative to plastic surgery
Plastic surgery
Plastic surgery is a medical specialty concerned with the correction or restoration of form and function. Though cosmetic or aesthetic surgery is the best-known kind of plastic surgery, most plastic surgery is not cosmetic: plastic surgery includes many types of reconstructive surgery, hand...
and botox injections, which may be more costly and invasive treatments.