Cuilapan de Guerrero
Encyclopedia
Cuilapan de Guerrero is a town and municipality
located in the central valley region of Oaxaca
in southern Mexico. It is 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) to the south of the capital city of Oaxaca
on the road leading to Villa de Zaachila
, and is in the Centro District
in the Valles Centrales region
.
Cuilapan, originally called Sahayuca, has been a permanent settlement since at least 500 BCE. It developed into a city state but was absorbed by Monte Alban
until between 600 and 900 CE. After this, Cuilapan returned to being an independent city-state, equal to a number of other important city states in the area. After the Spanish conquest, Cuilapan had a population of over 40,000 people with formidable social, economic and cultural institutions. For this reason, a major monastery dedicated to James the apostle was established there in the 1550s in order to evangelize the Mixtec
and Zapotec populations. However, the area underwent decline of its native population in the 16th and early 17th century and the extravagant monastery complex would later deteriorate in the 19th century. Today, the town is quiet place with a fraction of its former population and prestige. The ruins of the monastery complex remain mostly as a national monument administered by the Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia.
At the time of the Spanish conquest, Cuilapan was large multiethnic population center of 43,000 people and one of the centers of the political, economic and cultural life of the central valleys of Oaxaca. The area was still the center of an ongoing struggle for dominance between the Mixtecs and the Zapotecs. To complicate things further, the Aztec
s also had a presence in the central valleys region, and exacted tribute from Cuilapan through their military garrison in Huaxyácac (today the city of Oaxaca). This tribute included products such as corn, beans, clothing, gold and cochineal
.Cuilapan had a number of its own subject settlements which included Camotlán, Etla, Quauxilotitlan [Huitzo], Guaxaca, Macuilcóchitl, Tlacochahuaya, [San Sebastian] Teítipac and Ocotlán. However, the Aztecs sought only tribute and left Mixtec cultural and political traditions here mostly intact.
The Spanish found a thriving community with formidable political, economic and social organizations. The Mixtecs dominated and society was divided into a ruling class called cacique
s and commoners called macehuales. This heterogeneous system would mostly stay after the Spanish conquest, with the ruling class keeping many of its privileges with the conditions of conversion to Christianity and fealty to the Spanish crown. The original Mixtec settlement was at the foot of a hill in this area, but the modern town was established by Fray Domingo de Oguinaga and Zapotecs in 1551, with the founding of the monastery of Saint James.
This monastery was a major center of evangelization efforts in the early colonial period in the central valleys region of Oaxaca, although it was never finished. The Dominicans were in charge of evangelization and in a few years had managed to baptized nearly all the inhabitants. However, this was not enough to ensure acceptance of the new faith, so the monastery with its large open chapel
and elaborate murals was begun in the 1550s to reinforce Christian ideas, modified to relate to traditional Mixtec and Zapotec beliefs. However, one major effect the monastery had was to move the population center from the original Mixtec settlement to one surrounding the monastery.
Culiapan was caught up in a sovereignty dispute between Hernán Cortés
, the Marquis of the Valley of Oaxaca, and the city of Antequera (which would become the city of Oaxaca). As the Marquis, Cortés has absolute control over Cuiliapan and sixteen other towns in the valley as well as all of these town’s subject villages. Residents of the city of Antequera were fearful of Cortés unchecked political authority in the region in spite of their city charter granting them autonomy. The struggle lasted from the 1520s to the 1530s with each claiming land from the other. Eventually, the authority of the Marquis was limited to four towns known as the Cuatro Villas in 1533, with Culiapan being one of them. With this arrangement, Culiapan became a Spanish “cabecera” (seat) for a number of other, smaller settlements.
The decline of Cuilapan began in the 16th century, when the population fell from 43,000 in the 1520s to 7,000 in 1600. Construction of the massive basilica and monastery was halted by the 1570s, and was never finished. The Dominican friars were obliged to hand over the complex to regular clergy in the mid 18th century. From this point, the wealth and prestige of the institution declined. Church authorities neglected the maintenance of the complex and is deteriorated until it was finally divested of its religious function by the 19th century.
The complex has had several uses since that time, including that of a school, but its best-known function was that of the prison and execution place of Vicente Guerrero in 1831.
The town received a visit by Pope John Paul II in 1979.
The name for the original Mixtec city was Sahayuca, which means “at the foot of the mountain.” Later in the pre-Hispanic period, it adopted the name of Cuilapam Quayogol and Ampa-Valle, when the Aztecs began to have significant influence. The name is spelled two ways “Cuilapam” and “Cuilapan.” This name is from Nahuatl but its meaning is debated. It has been interpreted to mean “the place behind,” “the water behind,”, “dirty place” “painted river,” “at the foot of the mountain,” and “place or valley of the cocoyles, a type of small coconut tree. The reason behind the two spellings is a difference in the Nahuatl suffix, with-pan meaning “place of “ and –pam meaning “valley of.” Both spellings can be seen on signs and maps and both are considered correct.
Much of the life of the town still centers of religion, with saints’ days and other similar events celebrated with folk dances, masses, processions, fireworks, rodeos and more accompanied by bands that play chilenas, sones and other regional music. The major local celebration of the year is the feast of the Apostle James, which takes place from 24 to 27 January. The 24th is celebrated with evening masses, as is the morning of the 25th. A midday Mass on this day concludes with the Danza de la Pluma. In the late afternoon to evening hours there is a dance event called a “jaripeo” and more traditional dances in the main square accompanied by live music. These repeat on the 26th with the 27th concluding with a more modern dance event.
Cuilapam is the origin of the Danza de la Pluma and is known for the making of the elaborate headdresses which are worn by the dancers. This dance is one which is featured at the annual Guelaguetza event held in Oaxaca city in July.
During festivals and in the markets common dishes such as moles such as negro, rojo coloradito, verde and amarillo as well as tasajo, tlayudas, tamales wrapped in banana leaves and cegueza (ground corn and baked with barbacoa similar to a dumpling) can be found . Beverages include atole with chocolate, hot chocolate, tejate (drink made with mamey seeds, corn, cocoa and a flower called Rosita de cacao), horchata and hibiscus tea.
The former monastery still defines the town and is the major attraction for visitors. The fortress like complex is easily seen from the highway as one travels south from the city of Oaxaca towards Zaachila, and it is visited by both Mexican and international tourists. The complex located on a small hill which gives it a view of much of the valley area. It is one of the most extravagant and elaborate colonial area construction in Oaxaca, but it is often overlooked in favor of churches and monasteries located in the Mexico City area
. Built of green quarried stone and river rocks, it is a quiet place where footsteps can echo in the hallways. The extravagances of the site, include the tall basilica, the elaborate baptismal font, the Gothic cloister and murals remain as national treasures. The decorative work of the monastery, especially its murals, are important because they show a systematic blending of indigenous elements into the Christian framework, done in order to support the evangelization process in the local Mixtec and Zapotec peoples. The single-naved church is used for worship but the roofless basilica and cloister are under the control of INAH, which uses many of the second floor rooms of the cloister as workshops for restoration projects and runs a small museum with important liturgical items from the 16th century.
, Villa de Zaachila, Santa Cruz Xococotlan and San Raymundo Jalpan
.
The valley is surrounded by the densely forested mountains of the Sierra Madre del Sur
. The terrain is steep and rocky with the main source of water being a branch of the Atoyac River. The climate is temperate and mostly dry with most rain falling in summer and fall. Wildlife consists of rodents and small reptiles. Some larger species such as the armadillo
are in danger of extinction. The soil is highly susceptible to erosion.
About sixty percent of the population is dedicated to farming with principal crops being corn, beans and alfalfa
. Thirty percent raise livestock such as pigs, cattle, goats, horses and domestic fowl. About ten percent travel to work in Oaxaca city and some residents are employed as guides at the nearby Monte Alban site.
Municipalities of Mexico
Municipalities are the second-level administrative division in Mexico . There are 2,438 municipalities in Mexico, making the average municipality population 45,616...
located in the central valley region of Oaxaca
Oaxaca
Oaxaca , , officially Estado Libre y Soberano de Oaxaca is one of the 31 states which, along with the Federal District, comprise the 32 federative entities of Mexico. It is divided into 571 municipalities; of which 418 are governed by the system of customs and traditions...
in southern Mexico. It is 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) to the south of the capital city of Oaxaca
Oaxaca, Oaxaca
The city and municipality of Oaxaca de Juárez, or simply Oaxaca, is the capital and largest city of the Mexican state of the same name . It is located in the Centro District in the Central Valleys region of the state, in the foothills of the Sierra Madre at the base of the Cerro del Fortín...
on the road leading to Villa de Zaachila
Villa de Zaachila
Villa de Zaachila is a town and municipality in Oaxaca, Mexico, six km from the city of Oaxaca.It is part of the Zaachila District in the west of the Valles Centrales Region...
, and is in the Centro District
Centro District, Oaxaca
Centro District is located in the Valles Centrales Region of the State of Oaxaca, Mexico. The district includes the state capital Oaxaca and satellite towns.The district has an average elevation of 1,550 meters....
in the Valles Centrales region
Valles Centrales de Oaxaca
The Valles Centrales is a region in the heart of the state of Oaxaca, Mexico.It includes the districts of Etla, Centro, Zaachila, Zimatlán, Ocotlán, Tlacolula and Ejutla...
.
Cuilapan, originally called Sahayuca, has been a permanent settlement since at least 500 BCE. It developed into a city state but was absorbed by Monte Alban
Monte Albán
Monte Albán is a large pre-Columbian archaeological site in the Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán Municipality in the southern Mexican state of Oaxaca...
until between 600 and 900 CE. After this, Cuilapan returned to being an independent city-state, equal to a number of other important city states in the area. After the Spanish conquest, Cuilapan had a population of over 40,000 people with formidable social, economic and cultural institutions. For this reason, a major monastery dedicated to James the apostle was established there in the 1550s in order to evangelize the Mixtec
Mixtec
The Mixtec are indigenous Mesoamerican peoples inhabiting the Mexican states of Oaxaca, Guerrero and Puebla in a region known as La Mixteca. The Mixtecan languages form an important branch of the Otomanguean language family....
and Zapotec populations. However, the area underwent decline of its native population in the 16th and early 17th century and the extravagant monastery complex would later deteriorate in the 19th century. Today, the town is quiet place with a fraction of its former population and prestige. The ruins of the monastery complex remain mostly as a national monument administered by the Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia.
History
The Cuilapan area has been settled by humans since 1500 BCE with a sedentary village established by 500 BCE. These sedentary peoples developed activities such as weaving, pottery and stonemasonry, with permanent houses, ceremonial structures and tombs. The society here grew and stratified over time and eventually a simple writing system came into existence. Cuilapan developed as an independent city state until the rise of Monte Alban, which came into dominance because it provided a refuge in a defensible location. During this time, Cuilapan was one of the satellite cities of the dominion. Between 600 and 900 CE, Monte Alban decline and collapsed, allowing Cuilapan and others to become independent again. Excavations from this period show that Cuilapan gained prominence in the post Monte Alban period, but was not dominant over its neighbors and never reached the heights of the former dominion. At this time, Cuilapan is identifiable as a Zapotec city state. Later, in the post classic period, this and other Zapotec cities would be overrun by the Mixtecs.At the time of the Spanish conquest, Cuilapan was large multiethnic population center of 43,000 people and one of the centers of the political, economic and cultural life of the central valleys of Oaxaca. The area was still the center of an ongoing struggle for dominance between the Mixtecs and the Zapotecs. To complicate things further, the Aztec
Aztec
The Aztec people were certain ethnic groups of central Mexico, particularly those groups who spoke the Nahuatl language and who dominated large parts of Mesoamerica in the 14th, 15th and 16th centuries, a period referred to as the late post-classic period in Mesoamerican chronology.Aztec is the...
s also had a presence in the central valleys region, and exacted tribute from Cuilapan through their military garrison in Huaxyácac (today the city of Oaxaca). This tribute included products such as corn, beans, clothing, gold and cochineal
Cochineal
The cochineal is a scale insect in the suborder Sternorrhyncha, from which the crimson-colour dye carmine is derived. A primarily sessile parasite native to tropical and subtropical South America and Mexico, this insect lives on cacti from the genus Opuntia, feeding on plant moisture and...
.Cuilapan had a number of its own subject settlements which included Camotlán, Etla, Quauxilotitlan [Huitzo], Guaxaca, Macuilcóchitl, Tlacochahuaya, [San Sebastian] Teítipac and Ocotlán. However, the Aztecs sought only tribute and left Mixtec cultural and political traditions here mostly intact.
The Spanish found a thriving community with formidable political, economic and social organizations. The Mixtecs dominated and society was divided into a ruling class called cacique
Cacique
Cacique is a title derived from the Taíno word for the pre-Columbian chiefs or leaders of tribes in the Bahamas, Greater Antilles, and the northern Lesser Antilles...
s and commoners called macehuales. This heterogeneous system would mostly stay after the Spanish conquest, with the ruling class keeping many of its privileges with the conditions of conversion to Christianity and fealty to the Spanish crown. The original Mixtec settlement was at the foot of a hill in this area, but the modern town was established by Fray Domingo de Oguinaga and Zapotecs in 1551, with the founding of the monastery of Saint James.
This monastery was a major center of evangelization efforts in the early colonial period in the central valleys region of Oaxaca, although it was never finished. The Dominicans were in charge of evangelization and in a few years had managed to baptized nearly all the inhabitants. However, this was not enough to ensure acceptance of the new faith, so the monastery with its large open chapel
Capilla abierta
A capilla abierta or “open chapel” is considered to be one of the most distinct Mexican construction forms. Mostly built in the 16th century during the early colonial period, the construction was basically an apse or open presbytery, containing an altar, which opened onto a large atrium or plaza...
and elaborate murals was begun in the 1550s to reinforce Christian ideas, modified to relate to traditional Mixtec and Zapotec beliefs. However, one major effect the monastery had was to move the population center from the original Mixtec settlement to one surrounding the monastery.
Culiapan was caught up in a sovereignty dispute between Hernán Cortés
Hernán Cortés
Hernán Cortés de Monroy y Pizarro, 1st Marquis of the Valley of Oaxaca was a Spanish Conquistador who led an expedition that caused the fall of the Aztec Empire and brought large portions of mainland Mexico under the rule of the King of Castile in the early 16th century...
, the Marquis of the Valley of Oaxaca, and the city of Antequera (which would become the city of Oaxaca). As the Marquis, Cortés has absolute control over Cuiliapan and sixteen other towns in the valley as well as all of these town’s subject villages. Residents of the city of Antequera were fearful of Cortés unchecked political authority in the region in spite of their city charter granting them autonomy. The struggle lasted from the 1520s to the 1530s with each claiming land from the other. Eventually, the authority of the Marquis was limited to four towns known as the Cuatro Villas in 1533, with Culiapan being one of them. With this arrangement, Culiapan became a Spanish “cabecera” (seat) for a number of other, smaller settlements.
The decline of Cuilapan began in the 16th century, when the population fell from 43,000 in the 1520s to 7,000 in 1600. Construction of the massive basilica and monastery was halted by the 1570s, and was never finished. The Dominican friars were obliged to hand over the complex to regular clergy in the mid 18th century. From this point, the wealth and prestige of the institution declined. Church authorities neglected the maintenance of the complex and is deteriorated until it was finally divested of its religious function by the 19th century.
The complex has had several uses since that time, including that of a school, but its best-known function was that of the prison and execution place of Vicente Guerrero in 1831.
The town received a visit by Pope John Paul II in 1979.
The name for the original Mixtec city was Sahayuca, which means “at the foot of the mountain.” Later in the pre-Hispanic period, it adopted the name of Cuilapam Quayogol and Ampa-Valle, when the Aztecs began to have significant influence. The name is spelled two ways “Cuilapam” and “Cuilapan.” This name is from Nahuatl but its meaning is debated. It has been interpreted to mean “the place behind,” “the water behind,”, “dirty place” “painted river,” “at the foot of the mountain,” and “place or valley of the cocoyles, a type of small coconut tree. The reason behind the two spellings is a difference in the Nahuatl suffix, with-pan meaning “place of “ and –pam meaning “valley of.” Both spellings can be seen on signs and maps and both are considered correct.
The town
Today, the town of Cuilapan is primarily Mixtec with just over 11,000 people, filled with brightly-colored public buildings and a shady central plaza. It is a very quiet town, with only isolated persons or small groups of people on the streets. It is nothing like the bustling pre-Hispanic and early colonial city it used to be, maintaining only of fraction of its former population and prestige.Much of the life of the town still centers of religion, with saints’ days and other similar events celebrated with folk dances, masses, processions, fireworks, rodeos and more accompanied by bands that play chilenas, sones and other regional music. The major local celebration of the year is the feast of the Apostle James, which takes place from 24 to 27 January. The 24th is celebrated with evening masses, as is the morning of the 25th. A midday Mass on this day concludes with the Danza de la Pluma. In the late afternoon to evening hours there is a dance event called a “jaripeo” and more traditional dances in the main square accompanied by live music. These repeat on the 26th with the 27th concluding with a more modern dance event.
Cuilapam is the origin of the Danza de la Pluma and is known for the making of the elaborate headdresses which are worn by the dancers. This dance is one which is featured at the annual Guelaguetza event held in Oaxaca city in July.
During festivals and in the markets common dishes such as moles such as negro, rojo coloradito, verde and amarillo as well as tasajo, tlayudas, tamales wrapped in banana leaves and cegueza (ground corn and baked with barbacoa similar to a dumpling) can be found . Beverages include atole with chocolate, hot chocolate, tejate (drink made with mamey seeds, corn, cocoa and a flower called Rosita de cacao), horchata and hibiscus tea.
The ex monastery of Santiago Apóstol
Greater Mexico City
Greater Mexico City refers to the conurbation around Mexico City, officially called Mexico City Metropolitan Area , constituted by the Federal District—itself composed of 16 boroughs—and 41 adjacent municipalities of the states of Mexico and Hidalgo...
. Built of green quarried stone and river rocks, it is a quiet place where footsteps can echo in the hallways. The extravagances of the site, include the tall basilica, the elaborate baptismal font, the Gothic cloister and murals remain as national treasures. The decorative work of the monastery, especially its murals, are important because they show a systematic blending of indigenous elements into the Christian framework, done in order to support the evangelization process in the local Mixtec and Zapotec peoples. The single-naved church is used for worship but the roofless basilica and cloister are under the control of INAH, which uses many of the second floor rooms of the cloister as workshops for restoration projects and runs a small museum with important liturgical items from the 16th century.
The municipality
As municipal seat, the town of Cuilapan is the governing authority for more than thirty five other named communities, the largest of which include Cruz Blanca, Carrizal, Manzano and Tiracoz. The municipal population is 15041 (2005) with just under seventy five percent living in the town proper. Most of the population is ethnically Zapotec with the Mixtec (Mixtec Alta) coming second. Despite being less numerous, Mixtec traditions dominate due to their political dominance starting in the 13th century. The municipality covers an area of 49.75km2 and borders the municipalities of San Pedro IxtlahuacaSan Pedro Ixtlahuaca
San Pedro Ixtlahuaca is a town and municipality in Oaxaca in south-western Mexico. The municipality covers an area of km².It is part of the Centro District in the Valles Centrales region.As of 2005, the municipality had a total population of ....
, Villa de Zaachila, Santa Cruz Xococotlan and San Raymundo Jalpan
San Raymundo Jalpan
San Raymundo Jalpan is a town and municipality in Oaxaca in south-western Mexico. The municipality covers an area of km².It is part of the Centro District in the Valles Centrales region.As of 2005, the municipality had a total population of ....
.
The valley is surrounded by the densely forested mountains of the Sierra Madre del Sur
Sierra Madre del Sur
The Sierra Madre del Sur is a mountain range in southern Mexico, extending from southern Michoacán east through Guerrero, to the Istmo de Tehuantepec in eastern Oaxaca.-Geography:...
. The terrain is steep and rocky with the main source of water being a branch of the Atoyac River. The climate is temperate and mostly dry with most rain falling in summer and fall. Wildlife consists of rodents and small reptiles. Some larger species such as the armadillo
Armadillo
Armadillos are New World placental mammals, known for having a leathery armor shell. Dasypodidae is the only surviving family in the order Cingulata, part of the superorder Xenarthra along with the anteaters and sloths. The word armadillo is Spanish for "little armored one"...
are in danger of extinction. The soil is highly susceptible to erosion.
About sixty percent of the population is dedicated to farming with principal crops being corn, beans and alfalfa
Alfalfa
Alfalfa is a flowering plant in the pea family Fabaceae cultivated as an important forage crop in the US, Canada, Argentina, France, Australia, the Middle East, South Africa, and many other countries. It is known as lucerne in the UK, France, Australia, South Africa and New Zealand, and known as...
. Thirty percent raise livestock such as pigs, cattle, goats, horses and domestic fowl. About ten percent travel to work in Oaxaca city and some residents are employed as guides at the nearby Monte Alban site.