Dry-tooling
Encyclopedia
Dry-tooling involves climbing rock with ice axe
s and crampons
. It has its origins in mixed climbing, ice climbing and more recently sport climbing. Dry tooling is controversial among many climbers. Some favour it as a new and exciting kind of climbing, while others dislike it for its nontraditional methods and the long-lasting damage it can cause to certain, generally softer, rock formations.
A common theme of these early routes was that rock was climbed to reach free hanging ice falls. (Ice falls that do not touch the ground). Protection was also mostly traditional (hand placed pegs, nuts and ice screws) and adventurous in nature. This probably reflects the influences of alpine climbing, mixed climbing, ice climbing of the early innovators.
More recently dry tooling has tended towards secure bolted protection (sport) and may not involve the presence of ice at all. The route is bolted and climbers can clip as they dry tool, similar in style to a sports climbing route.
, Scotland
in March, 2003.
. Heel spurs were popular in the 90's but their use has since been frowned upon by many activists and they have since been banned from competitions. Many of these evolutions have been embraced by the wider winter climbing community.
which is also the birthplace of modern mixed ice climbing. There are also many dry-tooling areas in Europe such as Kandersteg
and Zinal. In the UK you can also climb on the esoteric chalk cliffs of the south coast.
Fatman and Robin M9, Colorado
Captain Hook M10, Italy.
Empire Strikes Back M11, Italy. 2000
Musashi M12, Canada.
Law and Order M13, Austria.
Vertical Limits M12, Switzerland.
Jedi Master, M11, Italy
A recent development of indoor dry tooling is the use of a special ice axe that has rubber loops on the ends instead of a sharp pick. The rubber loop can be hooked over the existing holds without damage to the wall or danger to the climber. Using this type of axe allows dry toolers and ordinary
climbers to use the wall alongside each other safely and conveniently.
Ice axe
An ice axe, is a multi-purpose ice and snow tool used by mountaineers both in the ascent and descent of routes which involve frozen conditions. It can be held and employed in a number of different ways, depending on the terrain encountered...
s and crampons
Crampons
Crampons are traction devices used to improve mobility on snow and ice. There are three main attachment systems for footwear: step-in, hybrid, and strap bindings. The first two require boots with welts, the last adapt to any type....
. It has its origins in mixed climbing, ice climbing and more recently sport climbing. Dry tooling is controversial among many climbers. Some favour it as a new and exciting kind of climbing, while others dislike it for its nontraditional methods and the long-lasting damage it can cause to certain, generally softer, rock formations.
History
The evolution of modern dry tooling really took off in the 90's with British alpinist Stevie Haston leading the way in Italy establishing routes such as Welcome to the Machine, 009 and Empire Strikes Back (Grotta Haston, Cogne). In America and Canada Jeff Lowe was influential in raising the standards, climbing routes such as Octopussy M8.A common theme of these early routes was that rock was climbed to reach free hanging ice falls. (Ice falls that do not touch the ground). Protection was also mostly traditional (hand placed pegs, nuts and ice screws) and adventurous in nature. This probably reflects the influences of alpine climbing, mixed climbing, ice climbing of the early innovators.
More recently dry tooling has tended towards secure bolted protection (sport) and may not involve the presence of ice at all. The route is bolted and climbers can clip as they dry tool, similar in style to a sports climbing route.
Competitions
Unsurprisingly the rise in standards was reflected in a surge of interest in competitions on purpose built climbing structures. These competitions mixed ice climbing with dry tooling on artificial features such as resin climbing holds, free hanging wooden logs and even bycicle frames! One of the most famous competitions is held at Saas Fe. Most recently dedicated dry tooling competitions have taken place without the need for ice. What was claimed to be the "World's First Indoor Dry Tooling Competition" was held in GlasgowGlasgow
Glasgow is the largest city in Scotland and third most populous in the United Kingdom. The city is situated on the River Clyde in the country's west central lowlands...
, Scotland
Scotland
Scotland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Occupying the northern third of the island of Great Britain, it shares a border with England to the south and is bounded by the North Sea to the east, the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, and the North Channel and Irish Sea to the...
in March, 2003.
Equipment
The evolution in equipment has been driven by the competition scene, resulting in leashless ice axes and lightweight ice climbing boots with integral cramponsCrampons
Crampons are traction devices used to improve mobility on snow and ice. There are three main attachment systems for footwear: step-in, hybrid, and strap bindings. The first two require boots with welts, the last adapt to any type....
. Heel spurs were popular in the 90's but their use has since been frowned upon by many activists and they have since been banned from competitions. Many of these evolutions have been embraced by the wider winter climbing community.
Dry Tooling Venues
Dry-tooling is practiced in areas such as Vail, ColoradoVail, Colorado
The Town of Vail is a Home Rule Municipality in Eagle County, Colorado, United States. The population of the town was 4,589 in 2005. The town was established and built as the base village to Vail Ski Resort, with which it was originally conceived...
which is also the birthplace of modern mixed ice climbing. There are also many dry-tooling areas in Europe such as Kandersteg
Kandersteg
Kandersteg is a municipality in the Frutigen-Niedersimmental administrative district in the canton of Bern in Switzerland. It is located along the valley of the River Kander, west of the Jungfrau massif. It is noted for its spectacular mountain scenery and sylvan alpine landscapes. Tourism is a...
and Zinal. In the UK you can also climb on the esoteric chalk cliffs of the south coast.
Significant World Dry Tooling Ascents
Octopusy M8, Colorado. 1994Fatman and Robin M9, Colorado
Captain Hook M10, Italy.
Empire Strikes Back M11, Italy. 2000
Musashi M12, Canada.
Law and Order M13, Austria.
Vertical Limits M12, Switzerland.
Jedi Master, M11, Italy
Indoor Drytooling
Many indoor climbing walls are now offering dry tooling to their customers. tendency has also been reflected by the interest in indoor drytooling and making it attractive to a new crowd of climber without the alpine heritage.A recent development of indoor dry tooling is the use of a special ice axe that has rubber loops on the ends instead of a sharp pick. The rubber loop can be hooked over the existing holds without damage to the wall or danger to the climber. Using this type of axe allows dry toolers and ordinary
climbers to use the wall alongside each other safely and conveniently.
External links
- m9entertainment - - Mixed Ice Climbing Media & Podcasts
- Scott Muir. Dry-Tooling - What's it all About? The Scottish Mountaineer, issue 20.
- Dry Tooling UK, an information and community site for dry tooling in the United Kingdom.