Durumagi
Encyclopedia
Durumagi is a variety of po
, or overcoat
in hanbok
, the Korea
n traditional garment. It is usually the topmost layer of clothing that is worn over jeogori
(jacket) and baji (pants). Durumagi means "closed all around", and is also known as jumagui (주막의, 周莫衣), juchaui (주차의, 周遮衣) or juui (
주의, 周衣). Durumagi is worn not only to fend off the cold, but also for ceremonial purposes.
period, although Mongolian influence during the Goryeo
period caused changes in its appearance. Not only was the waist belt changed into a [hanbok|goreum], the traditional pos short length and wide sleeves were lengthened and narrowed to the style of the Mongolian coat xurumakci, of which the name durumagi is said to be derived.
During the Joseon Dynasty
, the durumagi was less worn as an overcoat but more of a housecoat for the noble class, whereas it was worn outdoors by the commoners. In 1884, King Gojong promulgated the unification of clothing for all social classes through reform laws. However, this law was met with much resistance and it was only until ten years later, after the Gabo Reform
of 1894, that the durumagi became common as formal attire.
, fine ramie
and silk gauze
for summer; various silks and calico for spring and autumn. White, grey and navy blue are commonly used.
Various types include hotedan durumagi (홑단 두루마기, single layer), gyup durumagi (겹두루마기, double layer), som durumagi (솜두루마기, cotton), and kkachi durumagi
(까치두루마기, magpie) or obangjang durumagi (오방장 두루마기, five colors) for children.
.
Po (clothing)
The po is a generic term referring to an outer robe or overcoat in hanbok, Korean traditional clothing, which was worn mostly by men since the Goryeo period until the Joseon period.-See also:*Jeogori*Dopo*Durumagi*Sagyusam*Jeonbok*Hanbok...
, or overcoat
Overcoat
An overcoat is a type of long coat intended to be worn as the outermost garment. Overcoats usually extend below the knee, but are sometimes mistakenly referred to as topcoats, which are short coats that end at or above the knees. Topcoats and overcoats together are known as outercoats...
in hanbok
Hanbok
Hanbok or Chosŏn-ot is the traditional Korean dress. It is often characterized by vibrant colors and simple lines without pockets. Although the term literally means "Korean clothing", hanbok today often refers specifically to hanbok of Joseon Dynasty and is worn as semi-formal or formal wear...
, the Korea
Korea
Korea ) is an East Asian geographic region that is currently divided into two separate sovereign states — North Korea and South Korea. Located on the Korean Peninsula, Korea is bordered by the People's Republic of China to the northwest, Russia to the northeast, and is separated from Japan to the...
n traditional garment. It is usually the topmost layer of clothing that is worn over jeogori
Jeogori
The jeogori is a basic upper garment of hanbok, Korean traditional garment, which has been worn by both men and women. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body.-Etymology:...
(jacket) and baji (pants). Durumagi means "closed all around", and is also known as jumagui (주막의, 周莫衣), juchaui (주차의, 周遮衣) or juui (
주의, 周衣). Durumagi is worn not only to fend off the cold, but also for ceremonial purposes.
History
The origin of durumagi traces back to at least the GoguryeoGoguryeo
Goguryeo or Koguryŏ was an ancient Korean kingdom located in present day northern and central parts of the Korean Peninsula, southern Manchuria, and southern Russian Maritime province....
period, although Mongolian influence during the Goryeo
Goryeo
The Goryeo Dynasty or Koryŏ was a Korean dynasty established in 918 by Emperor Taejo. Korea gets its name from this kingdom which came to be pronounced Korea. It united the Later Three Kingdoms in 936 and ruled most of the Korean peninsula until it was removed by the Joseon dynasty in 1392...
period caused changes in its appearance. Not only was the waist belt changed into a [hanbok|goreum], the traditional pos short length and wide sleeves were lengthened and narrowed to the style of the Mongolian coat xurumakci, of which the name durumagi is said to be derived.
During the Joseon Dynasty
Joseon Dynasty
Joseon , was a Korean state founded by Taejo Yi Seong-gye that lasted for approximately five centuries. It was founded in the aftermath of the overthrow of the Goryeo at what is today the city of Kaesong. Early on, Korea was retitled and the capital was relocated to modern-day Seoul...
, the durumagi was less worn as an overcoat but more of a housecoat for the noble class, whereas it was worn outdoors by the commoners. In 1884, King Gojong promulgated the unification of clothing for all social classes through reform laws. However, this law was met with much resistance and it was only until ten years later, after the Gabo Reform
Gabo Reform
The Gabo Reform describes a series of sweeping reforms introduced in Joseon Dynasty Korea beginning in 1894 and ending in 1896, during the reign of King Gojong, in response to the Donghak Peasant Revolution. Historians debate the degree of Japanese influence in this program, as well as its effect...
of 1894, that the durumagi became common as formal attire.
Types and characteristics
Different fabrics and materials are used in making durumagi: calico, wool, cotton, and various silks for winter; ramieRamie
Ramie is a flowering plant in the nettle family Urticaceae, native to eastern Asia. It is a herbaceous perennial growing to 1–2.5 m tall; the leaves are heart-shaped, 7–15 cm long and 6–12 cm broad, and white on the underside with dense small hairs—this gives it a silvery appearance;...
, fine ramie
Ramie
Ramie is a flowering plant in the nettle family Urticaceae, native to eastern Asia. It is a herbaceous perennial growing to 1–2.5 m tall; the leaves are heart-shaped, 7–15 cm long and 6–12 cm broad, and white on the underside with dense small hairs—this gives it a silvery appearance;...
and silk gauze
Gauze
Gauze is a thin, translucent fabric with a loose open weave.-Uses and types:Gauze was originally made of silk and was used for clothing. It is now used for many different things, including gauze sponges for medical purposes. When used as a medical dressing, gauze is generally made of cotton...
for summer; various silks and calico for spring and autumn. White, grey and navy blue are commonly used.
Various types include hotedan durumagi (홑단 두루마기, single layer), gyup durumagi (겹두루마기, double layer), som durumagi (솜두루마기, cotton), and kkachi durumagi
Kkachi durumagi
Kkachi durumagi is a children's colorful overcoat in hanbok, traditional Korean clothing, which was worn on Seolnal, New Year's Day in the Lunar calendar. It was worn mostly by young boys and literally means "a magpie's overcoat". The clothes is also called obangjang durumagi which denotes "an...
(까치두루마기, magpie) or obangjang durumagi (오방장 두루마기, five colors) for children.
Modern use
The 'durumagi' is still considered an important part of traditional attire for formal occasions, but a variety of colors and designs are being used. Colorful durumagis were given as gifts to the world leaders of the 2005 APEC Summit in BusanBusan
Busan , formerly spelled Pusan is South Korea's second largest metropolis after Seoul, with a population of around 3.6 million. The Metropolitan area population is 4,399,515 as of 2010. It is the largest port city in South Korea and the fifth largest port in the world...
.
See also
- PoPo (clothing)The po is a generic term referring to an outer robe or overcoat in hanbok, Korean traditional clothing, which was worn mostly by men since the Goryeo period until the Joseon period.-See also:*Jeogori*Dopo*Durumagi*Sagyusam*Jeonbok*Hanbok...
- DopoDopo (clothing)The dopo is a variety of po, or overcoat in hanbok, Korean traditional garment which was mostly worn by male Confucian scholars called seonbi after the mid Joseon period. Seonbi wore it as their daily garment as well as government officers did when they out for their private business. There are...
- Kkachi durumagiKkachi durumagiKkachi durumagi is a children's colorful overcoat in hanbok, traditional Korean clothing, which was worn on Seolnal, New Year's Day in the Lunar calendar. It was worn mostly by young boys and literally means "a magpie's overcoat". The clothes is also called obangjang durumagi which denotes "an...
- SagyusamSagyusamThe sagyusam is a type of po , or outer robe in hanbok, Korean traditional clothing, which was worn by young boys until they had a coming-of-age ceremony called gwallye . The name was derived from the shape; the lower end of the garment is divided into four parts....
- JeonbokJeonbokThe jeonbok is a type of sleeveless long vest in hanbok, traditional Korean clothing, which was worn by military personnel. It does not have overlapped column on the front side, and was worn over dongdari ....
- HanbokHanbokHanbok or Chosŏn-ot is the traditional Korean dress. It is often characterized by vibrant colors and simple lines without pockets. Although the term literally means "Korean clothing", hanbok today often refers specifically to hanbok of Joseon Dynasty and is worn as semi-formal or formal wear...
External links
- Korea National Heritage online from the Cultural Heritage Administration Hanbok Story