Duvelleroy
Encyclopedia
Duvelleroy is a fan maker house founded in Paris
, France
in 1827 by Jean-Pierre Duvelleroy, and acquired in 1940 by Jules-Charles Maignan. It is one of the rare French fan makers still in existence today.
had been the capital of haute couture
, high jewellery, and fan making. But in 1827, the city held no more than fifteen fan makers.
It was yet at that precise moment that Jean-Pierre Duvelleroy chose to establish his own fan house in Paris. At 25 years old, he was convinced that this small accessory, which had turned out of fashion after the French Revolution
, might become fashionable once again. The demand for fans in South America
, which was at the time the first export market for French fan makers, helped him start his business.
, in March 1829. For the quadrille
dance, women wore fans. A single dance did it all: once again, fans were back.
or Delacroix
for exceptional pieces.
. From then on, the house would receive many gold medals for its craftsmanship. The Duvelleroys father and son would each be President of the Syndicate of Fan makers. On this account, both received the Légion d’Honneur, the Greatest Order of Merit for in France.
, Duvelleroy was appointed supplier to Queen Victoria, and opened a boutique in London. Soon enough, Duvelleroy fans were sold in all major courts of Europe.
In 1853, Duvelleroy realized a fan for the wedding of Eugénie de Montijo
to Emperor Napoleon III. Later, the house would be nominated exclusive supplier of the City of Paris. As such, the House of Duvelleroy realized the fans given to the wives of foreign sovereigns and dignitaries coming to Paris for official visits, such as the Empress of Russia, the Queen of Sweden, the Queen of Denmark and the Queen of Bulgaria.
period was very rich stylistically for Duvelleroy. Fans were adorned with flowers and women, often painted by Billotey, Louise Abbema, or Maurice Leloir.
Two icons of the House were born at that period: the “ballon” or Fontange fan, with its rounded shape, and the Duvelleroy daisy trademark stamped on each fan rivet.
, the production of fashion fans with textile leaves, declined in favour of advertising fans, with paper leaves. Duvelleroy worked with artists such as Paul Iribe (known for his sketch of a mother and her daughter, which became Lanvin’s trademark), offering fans as an advertising media for fragrances, high-end hotels and couture houses.
Between the two wars, Duvelleroy couture fans were mainly feathered fans, often made of ostrich, to adorn the ladies of the Roaring Twenties.
Georges Duvelleroy passed on his know-how to Madeleine Boisset, painter and fan maker, while his daughter took over the direction of the company.
, took over the House of Duvelleroy from the great-grandchildren of the founder. Madeleine Boisset, a lifelong apprentice of Georges Duvelleroy, ensured for some time the continuity of know-how. Until a tragedy befell: her affiliation to the Resistance movement in France was discovered, and she was deported to the Ravensbruck camp. She died in 1945. It is with her that young Michel Maignan, today’s inheritor of the House, discovered the world of fans.
Duvelleroy is one of the only Houses of fans to have survived after World War II
. Little by little, fans left women’s hands to become a collector’s privilege.
After the war, Duvelleroy continued existing thanks to the trade of small leather goods and pouches, as well as by selling and restoring antique fans.
was given in Paris: many Duvelleroy fans were exhibited on this occasion. Since then, many publications and exhibits have been developed, referring to Duvelleroy. In 1995, an exhibit in England was entirely dedicated to the House: Duvelleroy, King of Fans, Fanmaker to Kings.
Paris
Paris is the capital and largest city in France, situated on the river Seine, in northern France, at the heart of the Île-de-France region...
, France
France
The French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France...
in 1827 by Jean-Pierre Duvelleroy, and acquired in 1940 by Jules-Charles Maignan. It is one of the rare French fan makers still in existence today.
Founded in Paris, 1827
For centuries, ParisParis
Paris is the capital and largest city in France, situated on the river Seine, in northern France, at the heart of the Île-de-France region...
had been the capital of haute couture
Haute couture
Haute couture refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing. Haute couture is made to order for a specific customer, and it is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable seamstresses,...
, high jewellery, and fan making. But in 1827, the city held no more than fifteen fan makers.
It was yet at that precise moment that Jean-Pierre Duvelleroy chose to establish his own fan house in Paris. At 25 years old, he was convinced that this small accessory, which had turned out of fashion after the French Revolution
French Revolution
The French Revolution , sometimes distinguished as the 'Great French Revolution' , was a period of radical social and political upheaval in France and Europe. The absolute monarchy that had ruled France for centuries collapsed in three years...
, might become fashionable once again. The demand for fans in South America
South America
South America is a continent situated in the Western Hemisphere, mostly in the Southern Hemisphere, with a relatively small portion in the Northern Hemisphere. The continent is also considered a subcontinent of the Americas. It is bordered on the west by the Pacific Ocean and on the north and east...
, which was at the time the first export market for French fan makers, helped him start his business.
A ball at the Tuileries, or how fans came back into fashion
Two years later, a special event was about to make him lucky: a ball given by the Duchess of Berry at the Tuileries PalaceTuileries Palace
The Tuileries Palace was a royal palace in Paris which stood on the right bank of the River Seine until 1871, when it was destroyed in the upheaval during the suppression of the Paris Commune...
, in March 1829. For the quadrille
Quadrille
Quadrille is a historic dance performed by four couples in a square formation, a precursor to traditional square dancing. It is also a style of music...
dance, women wore fans. A single dance did it all: once again, fans were back.
A prestigious address, 15 rue de la Paix
The house opened a boutique at 15, rue de la Paix, while its ateliers were established at 17, passage des Panoramas in Paris. Duvelleroy had chosen the Place Vendome neighbourhood at the right moment: it was undergoing major changes, and was soon to become the centre of luxury and high jewellery.Design and production: a pioneer’s work
To produce fan sticks and guards in precious wood, in horn, in mother of pearl, ivory or tortoise shell, Jean-Pierre Duvelleroy chose the best stick makers (or ‘tabletiers’), which were traditionally based in the Oise region in France. For the leaves of his fans, he collaborated with the most sought for engravers and painters, sometimes working with artists such as IngresIngres
Ingres Database is a commercially supported, open-source SQL relational database management system intended to support large commercial and government applications...
or Delacroix
Eugène Delacroix
Ferdinand Victor Eugène Delacroix was a French Romantic artist regarded from the outset of his career as the leader of the French Romantic school...
for exceptional pieces.
Duvelleroy and the Great Exhibitions: time for recognition
During twenty years, the founder of the House of Duvelleroy contributed to many fan related innovations and patents, never sparing his efforts to obtain recognition for the profession. In 1851, willing to defend his vision of the craft, he wrote a letter to Nathalis Rondot, who recorded the fan section at the 1851 Great Exhibition in London. That same year, Duvelleroy was awarded the prize medal at The Crystal PalaceThe Crystal Palace
The Crystal Palace was a cast-iron and glass building originally erected in Hyde Park, London, England, to house the Great Exhibition of 1851. More than 14,000 exhibitors from around the world gathered in the Palace's of exhibition space to display examples of the latest technology developed in...
. From then on, the house would receive many gold medals for its craftsmanship. The Duvelleroys father and son would each be President of the Syndicate of Fan makers. On this account, both received the Légion d’Honneur, the Greatest Order of Merit for in France.
Duvelleroy, fan maker to the queens
After the production of a fan representing the Royal Family of England, based on a painting by WinterhalterWinterhalter
Winterhalter is a surname, and may refer to:* Albert G. Winterhalter , admiral in the United States Navy, commander in chief of the U.S...
, Duvelleroy was appointed supplier to Queen Victoria, and opened a boutique in London. Soon enough, Duvelleroy fans were sold in all major courts of Europe.
In 1853, Duvelleroy realized a fan for the wedding of Eugénie de Montijo
Eugénie de Montijo
Doña María Eugenia Ignacia Augustina de Palafox-Portocarrero de Guzmán y Kirkpatrick, 16th Countess of Teba and 15th Marquise of Ardales; 5 May 1826 – 11 July 1920), known as Eugénie de Montijo , was the last Empress consort of the French from 1853 to 1871 as the wife of Napoleon III, Emperor of...
to Emperor Napoleon III. Later, the house would be nominated exclusive supplier of the City of Paris. As such, the House of Duvelleroy realized the fans given to the wives of foreign sovereigns and dignitaries coming to Paris for official visits, such as the Empress of Russia, the Queen of Sweden, the Queen of Denmark and the Queen of Bulgaria.
The language of the fan by Duvelleroy
Jean-Pierre Duvelleroy gave the London House to his elder son Jules, born out of wedlock, while he handed over the management of the Paris House to his legitimate son, Georges Duvelleroy. For some time, Jules Duvelleroy developed the house in England, where he published the language of the fan: “Follow Me”, says the fan held in front of the face… ”Go away” pleads the fan against the ear… ”You have changed”, “We are observed”, “I hate you”, “I love you”, “Kiss me”…a whole code supposedly used by women for centuries, according to Duvelleroy leaflets.Duvelleroy and the couture fan
In Paris, George Duvelleroy and his wife continued to develop the House inherited from the founder. Under their conduct, couture fans became it-fans: the leaves of such fans were made of tulle, silk gauze, lace or organza and embroidered with sequins; new shapes were born, and feathers worked into marquetry created new motives.Duvelleroy and Art Nouveau
The Art NouveauArt Nouveau
Art Nouveau is an international philosophy and style of art, architecture and applied art—especially the decorative arts—that were most popular during 1890–1910. The name "Art Nouveau" is French for "new art"...
period was very rich stylistically for Duvelleroy. Fans were adorned with flowers and women, often painted by Billotey, Louise Abbema, or Maurice Leloir.
Two icons of the House were born at that period: the “ballon” or Fontange fan, with its rounded shape, and the Duvelleroy daisy trademark stamped on each fan rivet.
Advertising fans in the 1920s
After World War IWorld War I
World War I , which was predominantly called the World War or the Great War from its occurrence until 1939, and the First World War or World War I thereafter, was a major war centred in Europe that began on 28 July 1914 and lasted until 11 November 1918...
, the production of fashion fans with textile leaves, declined in favour of advertising fans, with paper leaves. Duvelleroy worked with artists such as Paul Iribe (known for his sketch of a mother and her daughter, which became Lanvin’s trademark), offering fans as an advertising media for fragrances, high-end hotels and couture houses.
Between the two wars, Duvelleroy couture fans were mainly feathered fans, often made of ostrich, to adorn the ladies of the Roaring Twenties.
Georges Duvelleroy passed on his know-how to Madeleine Boisset, painter and fan maker, while his daughter took over the direction of the company.
1940-1981: the survival of the House of Duvelleroy
In 1940, Jules-Charles Maignan, who used to work at the Parisian department store Galeries LafayetteGaleries Lafayette
- History :In 1893 Théophile Bader and his cousin Alphonse Kahn opened a fashion store in a small haberdasher's shop at the corner of rue La Fayette and the Chaussée d'Antin, Paris. In 1896, the company purchased the entire building at n°1 rue La Fayette and in 1905 the buildings at n°38, 40 et...
, took over the House of Duvelleroy from the great-grandchildren of the founder. Madeleine Boisset, a lifelong apprentice of Georges Duvelleroy, ensured for some time the continuity of know-how. Until a tragedy befell: her affiliation to the Resistance movement in France was discovered, and she was deported to the Ravensbruck camp. She died in 1945. It is with her that young Michel Maignan, today’s inheritor of the House, discovered the world of fans.
Duvelleroy is one of the only Houses of fans to have survived after World War II
World War II
World War II, or the Second World War , was a global conflict lasting from 1939 to 1945, involving most of the world's nations—including all of the great powers—eventually forming two opposing military alliances: the Allies and the Axis...
. Little by little, fans left women’s hands to become a collector’s privilege.
After the war, Duvelleroy continued existing thanks to the trade of small leather goods and pouches, as well as by selling and restoring antique fans.
1981-2009: the saving of a heritage
By duty of memory, Michel Maignan conserved the Duvelleroy Fund which his grand-father passed on to him in 1981. This Fund is made of fans, drawings, tools, materials and furnishings kept since the foundation of the House of Duvelleroy in 1827. “I give it to you so that you can make something out of it”, he said. In 1986, an exhibit dedicated to the Fan as a mirror of the Belle ÉpoqueBelle Époque
The Belle Époque or La Belle Époque was a period in European social history that began during the late 19th century and lasted until World War I. Occurring during the era of the French Third Republic and the German Empire, it was a period characterised by optimism and new technological and medical...
was given in Paris: many Duvelleroy fans were exhibited on this occasion. Since then, many publications and exhibits have been developed, referring to Duvelleroy. In 1995, an exhibit in England was entirely dedicated to the House: Duvelleroy, King of Fans, Fanmaker to Kings.