Giancarlo Giammetti
Encyclopedia
Giancarlo Giammetti is the honorary president of the Valentino Fashion House. He was named to the International Best Dressed List
International Best Dressed List
The International Best Dressed List was founded by fashionista Eleanor Lambert in 1940 as an attempt to boost the reputation of American fashion at the time.People who have been on the list include from A to Z:-The International Hall of Fame: Women:...

 Hall of Fame in 2006.

Biography

Giancarlo Giammetti was a student of architecture in Rome when he met the young Valentino Garavani in Via Veneto in Rome
Rome
Rome is the capital of Italy and the country's largest and most populated city and comune, with over 2.7 million residents in . The city is located in the central-western portion of the Italian Peninsula, on the Tiber River within the Lazio region of Italy.Rome's history spans two and a half...

 on July 31, 1960. Valentino had just arrived from Paris
Paris
Paris is the capital and largest city in France, situated on the river Seine, in northern France, at the heart of the Île-de-France region...

, where he had been an apprentice to designers Jean Desses
Jean Desses
Jean Dessès , was a world leading fashion designer in the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s. His designs reflected the influences of his travels, specializing in creating draped evening gowns in chiffon and mousseline, based on early Greek and Egyptian robes.-Biography:Born Jean Dimitre Verginie in...

 and Guy Laroche
Guy Laroche
Guy Laroche was a French fashion designer and founder of the eponymous company.Laroche began his career in millinery and, from 1949, Laroche worked for Jean Desses and eventually became his assistant. In 1955, he visited the US to investigate new ready-to-wear manufacturing methods...

, to open his first fashion house. As detailed in the movie Valentino: The Last Emperor
Valentino: The Last Emperor
Valentino: The Last Emperor is a documentary film about the life of Valentino Garavani. It was produced and directed by Matt Tyrnauer, Special Correspondent for Vanity Fair magazine. The film is an exploration of the singular world of one of Italy's most famous men, Valentino Garavani...

, Giammetti dropped out of architecture school and began looking after the business side of Valentino’s young high fashion enterprise. Giammetti, in the movie points out that he knew nothing about business, but that he knew more than Valentino, “say that three plus three equals six.” When Giammetti arrived, the house of Valentino was in bad financial shape. In fact, it was here and Woman’s Wear Daily. Among his great champions were Vogue’s Diana Vreeland and her Rome editor, Countess Consuelo Crespi
Consuelo Crespi
Consuelo Pauline O'Brien O'Connor Crespi was an American-born Italian countess who served the world of high fashion as a style-setting model and editor of Vogue Italia. During the same period, her twin sister Gloria Schiff was a major influence on fashion as editor for the American edition of...

. They trumpeted Valentino’s talent in their pages, and the grand women began to flock to the designer. It was Giammetti who helped Valentino capitalize on this early wave of success. He arranged for Valentino to show his collections in Florence, where the important shows took place. He was the first to conceive of lavish magazine advertising spreads, which trumpeted to the designer’s art. He called these ads “grouppage”, and the first Valentino “grouppage” ad featured models dressed in pastels posing in a desert setting. Semolina was used to create the desertscape in the studio. Previously, much of the advertising for clothes in fashion magazines was sponsored by fabric houses, which put their logos on the ads, crediting the designers in small print at the bottom of the pages.

In the late 70s, after Valentino had become an international name, Giammetti was one of the first to lead a fashion brand into ready-to-wear. He was also an early pioneer in international licensing. In the 1980s Valentino’s brand was aggressively licensed to products from sunglasses to cars.

In 1989, he created with Valentino the Accademia Valentino, a cultural space located near Valentino's atelier in Rome, for the presentation of art exhibitions. The year later, encouraged by their friend Elizabeth Taylor
Elizabeth Taylor
Dame Elizabeth Rosemond "Liz" Taylor, DBE was a British-American actress. From her early years as a child star with MGM, she became one of the great screen actresses of Hollywood's Golden Age...

, Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti created L.I.F.E., an association for the support of AIDS
AIDS
Acquired immune deficiency syndrome or acquired immunodeficiency syndrome is a disease of the human immune system caused by the human immunodeficiency virus...

 patients, which benefits from the activities of the Accademia Valentino.

The Valentino fashion empire was later sold in 1998, for a considerable amount of money to HDP, an Italian conglomerate, and, later, to the Marzotto group. In 2007, Marzotto sold the company to Permira
Permira
Permira is a United Kingdom-based private equity firm with global reach. The firm advises funds with a total committed capital of approximately €20 billion....

, a London-based private equity fund.

Valentino and Giammetti decided to step down for their respective positions at the top of the fashion house in 2008, but not before celebrating Valentino’s career with the largest and most lavish event in the history of fashion: a three-day-long series of parties and a haute couture show in Rome. The celebration was considered the final reunion of the jet set, which defined high-level international living at the end of the 20th century. Highlights of the event included a party in the Temple of Venus, with an aerial performance with the Coliseum, lit Valentino red, as the backdrop; a party in the Villa Borghese in a structure designed for the evening by Dante Ferretti
Dante Ferretti
Dante Ferretti is an Italian production designer, art director and costume designer for films.In his career, Ferretti has worked with many great directors, both American and Italian, such as Pier Paolo Pasolini, Federico Fellini, Terry Gilliam, Franco Zeffirelli, Martin Scorsese, Francis Ford...

, and the runway show in the Ospedalle Santo Spirito.

A few months after this party, which was covered around the world on TV, in newspapers and in magazines, Giammetti announced his retirement to coincide with Valentino’s.

The relationship between Valentino and Giammetti and the events leading up the party in Rome, and the party itself, are covered in the 2008 film Valentino: The Last Emperor
Valentino: The Last Emperor
Valentino: The Last Emperor is a documentary film about the life of Valentino Garavani. It was produced and directed by Matt Tyrnauer, Special Correspondent for Vanity Fair magazine. The film is an exploration of the singular world of one of Italy's most famous men, Valentino Garavani...

.

External links

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