Hanfu movement
Encyclopedia
Hanfu movement or the Hanfu subculture, is a movement created in China
to reintroduce into modern life the traditional Han Chinese
clothing
styles that were banned by the Manchu
Qing Dynasty
(1644–1912).
, the Hanfu movement may have begun around 2003 when a man called Wang Letian from Zhengzhou
, China
, wore Hanfu in public. This inspired others to do the same and the Hanfu movement grew out of forums created initially about Hanfu, which later covered the cultural identity of China. Since the start of the movement, there has been public interest in Hanfu as well as debates about it.
Major activities that Hanfu enthusiasts part-take include holding Guan Li
s and Ji Li's (the Chinese equivalent of the coming of age
ceremony) and other formal traditional ceremonies of the past, wearing Hanfu in public places (especially at festivals) and making their own Hanfu. There is a deeper meaning and goal to the Hanfu movement than just pure dressing up, going with the trend or exercising one's individuality. The main premise of the Hanfu movement is to get to a stage where Hanfu becomes an accepted part of clothing that can be worn without the need to justify to others for wearing it as well as reviving cultural traditions.
is different, reflecting the values and interests of each period. It was not until the Qing Dynasty
that the Hanfu became forcibly replaced by the costume of Manchu
. Though many believe the Qipao
or Cheongsam is China's national costume, this is relatively inaccurate as, considering China's thousands of years of history, the qipao is fairly modern.
There are those who believe that every ethnic group's costume is important and a valuable development and piece of the past, embodying the culture and traditions of that group. Hanfu is the traditional costume of the Han Chinese, so it is representative of the nation's traditional culture. The Chinese people are becoming more aware of this connection between themselves and their ancient culture. The practice of wearing Hanfu has also had the benefit of development and propagation of the traditional culture of China.
and Korea
where their national costumes (kimono
and Hanbok
respectively) do not completely dominate everyday clothing, yet make appearances during national festivals. Some even suggest modifying Hanfu to make it more appropriate for everyday clothing. As the predecessor of the kimono, the Hanfu is surprisingly unknown to the rest of the world.
But like many other national costumes, Hanfu has a formal, more heavy and elaborate form for certain occasions (like the Western white tie
or tuxedo
), and an informal, light and easy to wear form which is more convenient to wear everyday. So completely reviving Hanfu is not as inconvenient as any other national costume.
However, there may be practical concern for complete Hanfu restoration. In parts of Han dynasty, the pants people wear (if any) did not cover the crotch, so sitting with splitting legs would be regarded as extremely rude.
and Cheongsam) has had a tremendous influence overseas and that many foreigners recognise them as the de facto
Chinese costume and that Hanfu does not share the same influence or recognition in today's environment.
However, critics of the movement fear that the revival leans too far in the direction of a narrow nationalism
, focused on looks rather than content. They fear that a blanket dismissal of non-Hanfu dress could lead a step further, towards a rejection of the West that goes beyond clothing matters.
While many Hanfu enthusiasts advocate Hanfu as a national dress, critics see this as an internal problem, as Hanfu is the traditional dress of the Han people. Hanfu as a national dress would fail to represent the other 55 ethnicities of China. Of course, Manchu influenced Qipaos currently associated with Chinese clothing would also fail to represent the other 55 ethnic groups.
Elizabethan times in everyday life) and since Hanfu is theoretically a 'period costume', it is unsuitable for wear in a modern progressive society. However, since it has been worn for the majority of Chinese history, it would not be considered a "period costume." In fact, the use of the Qipao
is relatively recent, and would classify as a period costume.
The sudden change in Chinese clothing from traditional Han-style to strong Manchurian and Western influences has caused confusion as to the idea of what China's national costume is. Hanfu's development halted in the 17th century due to government sanctions by the Manchurian Qing government, so the Hanfu has been placed in a situation that other national costumes have had the fortune not to experience. Technically, Hanfu is a costume not through natural development but through a forced change.
There is also debate as to whether Hanfu is just a fashion
-fad or a form of Romantic
nostalgia for the past, rather than anything of modern relevance.
was submitted to the Chinese Olympic Committee. After considering the proposal and debating on what should be the official clothing, the Chinese Olympic Committee rejected the proposal in April.
In 2008, the Chinese Central Government's official Web portal used a portrait of a woman in Hanfu to represent the Han ethnicity on the introductory page of the fifty-six ethnic groups.
China
Chinese civilization may refer to:* China for more general discussion of the country.* Chinese culture* Greater China, the transnational community of ethnic Chinese.* History of China* Sinosphere, the area historically affected by Chinese culture...
to reintroduce into modern life the traditional Han Chinese
Han Chinese
Han Chinese are an ethnic group native to China and are the largest single ethnic group in the world.Han Chinese constitute about 92% of the population of the People's Republic of China , 98% of the population of the Republic of China , 78% of the population of Singapore, and about 20% of the...
clothing
Han Chinese clothing
Hanfu or Han Chinese Clothing, also sometimes known as Hanzhuang , Huafu , and sometimes referred in English sources simply as Silk Robe or Chinese Silk Robe refers to the historical dress of the Han Chinese people, which was worn for millennia before the conquest by the Manchus and the...
styles that were banned by the Manchu
Manchu
The Manchu people or Man are an ethnic minority of China who originated in Manchuria . During their rise in the 17th century, with the help of the Ming dynasty rebels , they came to power in China and founded the Qing Dynasty, which ruled China until the Xinhai Revolution of 1911, which...
Qing Dynasty
Qing Dynasty
The Qing Dynasty was the last dynasty of China, ruling from 1644 to 1912 with a brief, abortive restoration in 1917. It was preceded by the Ming Dynasty and followed by the Republic of China....
(1644–1912).
History
According to the Asia Times OnlineAsia Times Online
Asia Times Online is a bilingual English‒Chinese, Internet-based newspaper covering geopolitics, politics, economics and business "from an Asian perspective"...
, the Hanfu movement may have begun around 2003 when a man called Wang Letian from Zhengzhou
Zhengzhou
Zhengzhou , is the capital and largest city of Henan province in north-central China. A prefecture-level city, it also serves as the political, economic, technological, and educational centre of the province, as well as a major transportation hub for Central China...
, China
China
Chinese civilization may refer to:* China for more general discussion of the country.* Chinese culture* Greater China, the transnational community of ethnic Chinese.* History of China* Sinosphere, the area historically affected by Chinese culture...
, wore Hanfu in public. This inspired others to do the same and the Hanfu movement grew out of forums created initially about Hanfu, which later covered the cultural identity of China. Since the start of the movement, there has been public interest in Hanfu as well as debates about it.
Major activities that Hanfu enthusiasts part-take include holding Guan Li
Guan Li
The Guan Li is the Confucian coming of age ceremony. The name Guan Li refers to the ceremony for men, while the Ji Li refers to the one for women.The age of the person is usually 20 and during the ceremony, the person obtains a style name...
s and Ji Li's (the Chinese equivalent of the coming of age
Coming of age
Coming of age is a young person's transition from childhood to adulthood. The age at which this transition takes place varies in society, as does the nature of the transition. It can be a simple legal convention or can be part of a ritual, as practiced by many societies...
ceremony) and other formal traditional ceremonies of the past, wearing Hanfu in public places (especially at festivals) and making their own Hanfu. There is a deeper meaning and goal to the Hanfu movement than just pure dressing up, going with the trend or exercising one's individuality. The main premise of the Hanfu movement is to get to a stage where Hanfu becomes an accepted part of clothing that can be worn without the need to justify to others for wearing it as well as reviving cultural traditions.
The exact definition of "Hanfu"
Throughout China's long history, the clothing of the Han people has undergone many changes. The costumes of each dynastyDynasty
A dynasty is a sequence of rulers considered members of the same family. Historians traditionally consider many sovereign states' history within a framework of successive dynasties, e.g., China, Ancient Egypt and the Persian Empire...
is different, reflecting the values and interests of each period. It was not until the Qing Dynasty
Qing Dynasty
The Qing Dynasty was the last dynasty of China, ruling from 1644 to 1912 with a brief, abortive restoration in 1917. It was preceded by the Ming Dynasty and followed by the Republic of China....
that the Hanfu became forcibly replaced by the costume of Manchu
Manchu
The Manchu people or Man are an ethnic minority of China who originated in Manchuria . During their rise in the 17th century, with the help of the Ming dynasty rebels , they came to power in China and founded the Qing Dynasty, which ruled China until the Xinhai Revolution of 1911, which...
. Though many believe the Qipao
Qipao
The cheongsam is a body-hugging one-piece Chinese dress for women; the male version is the changshan. It is known in Mandarin Chinese as the qípáo Wade-Giles ch'i-p'ao, and is also known in English as a mandarin gown...
or Cheongsam is China's national costume, this is relatively inaccurate as, considering China's thousands of years of history, the qipao is fairly modern.
To revive or not to revive
Some people believe that the disappearance of the Hanfu is not abnormal. Nowadays, many feel that the Hanfu is no longer relevant or convenient, and has been consigned to China's historical culture.There are those who believe that every ethnic group's costume is important and a valuable development and piece of the past, embodying the culture and traditions of that group. Hanfu is the traditional costume of the Han Chinese, so it is representative of the nation's traditional culture. The Chinese people are becoming more aware of this connection between themselves and their ancient culture. The practice of wearing Hanfu has also had the benefit of development and propagation of the traditional culture of China.
Complete restoration?
Some think it is important for certain occasions. One can wear Hanfu for holidays, festivals, weddings, birth parties, funerals or even as regular clothing. Those who believe that wearing Hanfu is inconvenient can continue wearing modern clothing. There are also those who believe that national costumes can become the standard ideal of clothing in special occasions and dates. Example of this include JapanJapan
Japan is an island nation in East Asia. Located in the Pacific Ocean, it lies to the east of the Sea of Japan, China, North Korea, South Korea and Russia, stretching from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north to the East China Sea and Taiwan in the south...
and Korea
Korea
Korea ) is an East Asian geographic region that is currently divided into two separate sovereign states — North Korea and South Korea. Located on the Korean Peninsula, Korea is bordered by the People's Republic of China to the northwest, Russia to the northeast, and is separated from Japan to the...
where their national costumes (kimono
Kimono
The is a Japanese traditional garment worn by men, women and children. The word "kimono", which literally means a "thing to wear" , has come to denote these full-length robes...
and Hanbok
Hanbok
Hanbok or Chosŏn-ot is the traditional Korean dress. It is often characterized by vibrant colors and simple lines without pockets. Although the term literally means "Korean clothing", hanbok today often refers specifically to hanbok of Joseon Dynasty and is worn as semi-formal or formal wear...
respectively) do not completely dominate everyday clothing, yet make appearances during national festivals. Some even suggest modifying Hanfu to make it more appropriate for everyday clothing. As the predecessor of the kimono, the Hanfu is surprisingly unknown to the rest of the world.
But like many other national costumes, Hanfu has a formal, more heavy and elaborate form for certain occasions (like the Western white tie
White tie
White tie is the most formal evening dress code in Western fashion. It is worn to ceremonial occasions such as state dinners in some countries, as well as to very formal balls and evening weddings...
or tuxedo
Tuxedo
A tuxedo is a type of semi-formal dress for men.Tuxedo may also refer to:-Places:Canada* Tuxedo, Winnipeg, Manitoba, a city neighborhood** Tuxedo , a provincial electoral district in Manitoba...
), and an informal, light and easy to wear form which is more convenient to wear everyday. So completely reviving Hanfu is not as inconvenient as any other national costume.
However, there may be practical concern for complete Hanfu restoration. In parts of Han dynasty, the pants people wear (if any) did not cover the crotch, so sitting with splitting legs would be regarded as extremely rude.
Whether the Tangzhuang can fully represent the Han nationality
Some believe that the Tangzhuang (i.e. QipaoQipao
The cheongsam is a body-hugging one-piece Chinese dress for women; the male version is the changshan. It is known in Mandarin Chinese as the qípáo Wade-Giles ch'i-p'ao, and is also known in English as a mandarin gown...
and Cheongsam) has had a tremendous influence overseas and that many foreigners recognise them as the de facto
De facto
De facto is a Latin expression that means "concerning fact." In law, it often means "in practice but not necessarily ordained by law" or "in practice or actuality, but not officially established." It is commonly used in contrast to de jure when referring to matters of law, governance, or...
Chinese costume and that Hanfu does not share the same influence or recognition in today's environment.
Criticism
Many Hanfu advocates argue that making Hanfu a national dress could unite the country, creating a cultural symbol for the country and creating a tradition for future generations.However, critics of the movement fear that the revival leans too far in the direction of a narrow nationalism
Nationalism
Nationalism is a political ideology that involves a strong identification of a group of individuals with a political entity defined in national terms, i.e. a nation. In the 'modernist' image of the nation, it is nationalism that creates national identity. There are various definitions for what...
, focused on looks rather than content. They fear that a blanket dismissal of non-Hanfu dress could lead a step further, towards a rejection of the West that goes beyond clothing matters.
While many Hanfu enthusiasts advocate Hanfu as a national dress, critics see this as an internal problem, as Hanfu is the traditional dress of the Han people. Hanfu as a national dress would fail to represent the other 55 ethnicities of China. Of course, Manchu influenced Qipaos currently associated with Chinese clothing would also fail to represent the other 55 ethnic groups.
Historical relevance
Many feel that Hanfu is out-dated and old fashioned. A similar example is why people in the West do not wear period costume (British people do not wear costumes of1550-1600 in fashion
Fashion in the period 1550–1600 in Western European clothing is characterized by increased opulence, the rise of the ruff, the expansion of the farthingale for women, and, for men, the disappearance of the codpiece.-General trends:-Spanish style:...
Elizabethan times in everyday life) and since Hanfu is theoretically a 'period costume', it is unsuitable for wear in a modern progressive society. However, since it has been worn for the majority of Chinese history, it would not be considered a "period costume." In fact, the use of the Qipao
Qipao
The cheongsam is a body-hugging one-piece Chinese dress for women; the male version is the changshan. It is known in Mandarin Chinese as the qípáo Wade-Giles ch'i-p'ao, and is also known in English as a mandarin gown...
is relatively recent, and would classify as a period costume.
The sudden change in Chinese clothing from traditional Han-style to strong Manchurian and Western influences has caused confusion as to the idea of what China's national costume is. Hanfu's development halted in the 17th century due to government sanctions by the Manchurian Qing government, so the Hanfu has been placed in a situation that other national costumes have had the fortune not to experience. Technically, Hanfu is a costume not through natural development but through a forced change.
There is also debate as to whether Hanfu is just a fashion
Fashion
Fashion, a general term for a currently popular style or practice, especially in clothing, foot wear, or accessories. Fashion references to anything that is the current trend in look and dress up of a person...
-fad or a form of Romantic
Romanticism
Romanticism was an artistic, literary and intellectual movement that originated in the second half of the 18th century in Europe, and gained strength in reaction to the Industrial Revolution...
nostalgia for the past, rather than anything of modern relevance.
Recent developments
In February 2007, a proposal to use Hanfu for the official clothing of for the Chinese 2008 Summer Olympics2008 Summer Olympics
The 2008 Summer Olympics, officially known as the Games of the XXIX Olympiad, was a major international multi-sport event that took place in Beijing, China, from August 8 to August 24, 2008. A total of 11,028 athletes from 204 National Olympic Committees competed in 28 sports and 302 events...
was submitted to the Chinese Olympic Committee. After considering the proposal and debating on what should be the official clothing, the Chinese Olympic Committee rejected the proposal in April.
In 2008, the Chinese Central Government's official Web portal used a portrait of a woman in Hanfu to represent the Han ethnicity on the introductory page of the fifty-six ethnic groups.
External links
- Hanfu Review An English Blog with Hanfu movement news archive
- Hanfu Union
- The Han Net
- HanFu Promotional Association
- Toronto Association for the Revival of Hanfu
- 開講天下 Television debate on whether the Western suitSuit (clothing)In clothing, a suit is a set of garments made from the same cloth, consisting of at least a jacket and trousers. Lounge suits are the most common style of Western suit, originating in the United Kingdom as country wear...
, TangzhuangTangzhuangTangzhuang refers to the Chinese jacket that originated at the end of the Qing Dynasty . Tangzhuang evolved from Magua , a Manchu clothing, which was in turn adopted by the Han Chinese during Qing Dynasty. At that time, only noblemen, aristocracy and government officials were wearing it, however,...
or Hanfu is to be appropriate for the Chinese Olympics. part 1, part 2, part 3 - The Great Movement of Restoring Authentic Chinese Clothing
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