Jim Wickwire
Encyclopedia
Jim Wickwire is a retired attorney in Seattle, Washington
, most famous as the first American
to reach the top of K2
, the world's second-highest mountain, and then for surviving the night in the open just below the summit.
His first attempt on K2 was in a 1975 expedition that broke down in disputes and never got above 22,000 ft.
Wickwire reached the summit with Louis Reichardt
on September 6, 1978, but while Reichardt went down right away, Wickwire lingered to take photos, and on the descent he became concerned that he was having too much difficulty moving safely in the dark, and so he stayed where he was. This was extremely risky, because at such high elevations, a tent
and sleeping bag
are essential to fending off hypothermia
and frostbite
. The next morning, John Roskelley
and Rick Ridgeway
found him continuing down while on their way to the summit. Wickwire lost parts of two toes and underwent lung surgery.
Nevertheless, Wickwire continued high-altitude climbing.
In 1981, he was on Mount McKinley
with Chris Kerrebrock, who fell into a crevasse
, pulling Wickwire in after him. Wickwire was able to get out, but unable to rescue Kerrebrock, who was alive but jammed in facedown. With Wickwire having dislocated a shoulder and being unable to move him, Kerrebrock subsequently died of hypothermia
.
He made four (unsuccessful) attempts on the north side of Mount Everest
(1982, 1984, 1993, and 2003). In the 1982 expedition, he was next to Marty Hoey
when her harness came unfastened and she fell to her death.
The film K2
is based loosely on Wickwire and Reichardt's 1978 K2
attempt, although there are significant differences between the film and reality.
Seattle, Washington
Seattle is the county seat of King County, Washington. With 608,660 residents as of the 2010 Census, Seattle is the largest city in the Northwestern United States. The Seattle metropolitan area of about 3.4 million inhabitants is the 15th largest metropolitan area in the country...
, most famous as the first American
United States
The United States of America is a federal constitutional republic comprising fifty states and a federal district...
to reach the top of K2
K2
K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...
, the world's second-highest mountain, and then for surviving the night in the open just below the summit.
His first attempt on K2 was in a 1975 expedition that broke down in disputes and never got above 22,000 ft.
Wickwire reached the summit with Louis Reichardt
Louis Reichardt
Louis Reichardt is a noted American mountaineer, the first American to summit both Everest and K2. He is also a Professor of Physiology and Biochemistry/Biophysics at UCSF, where he studies neuroscience. The character of Harold Jameson, U.C.S.F...
on September 6, 1978, but while Reichardt went down right away, Wickwire lingered to take photos, and on the descent he became concerned that he was having too much difficulty moving safely in the dark, and so he stayed where he was. This was extremely risky, because at such high elevations, a tent
Tent
A tent is a shelter consisting of sheets of fabric or other material draped over or attached to a frame of poles or attached to a supporting rope. While smaller tents may be free-standing or attached to the ground, large tents are usually anchored using guy ropes tied to stakes or tent pegs...
and sleeping bag
Sleeping bag
A sleeping bag is a protective "bag" for a person to sleep in, essentially a blanket that can be closed with a zipper or similar means, and functions as a bed in situations where a bed is unavailable . Its primary purpose is to provide warmth and thermal insulation...
are essential to fending off hypothermia
Hypothermia
Hypothermia is a condition in which core temperature drops below the required temperature for normal metabolism and body functions which is defined as . Body temperature is usually maintained near a constant level of through biologic homeostasis or thermoregulation...
and frostbite
Frostbite
Frostbite is the medical condition where localized damage is caused to skin and other tissues due to extreme cold. Frostbite is most likely to happen in body parts farthest from the heart and those with large exposed areas...
. The next morning, John Roskelley
John Roskelley
John Roskelley is a noted mountain climber and author from Spokane, Washington, and is known for his first ascents and notable ascents of 7000 and 8000 meter peaks in Nepal, India, and Pakistan.-Notable ascents:...
and Rick Ridgeway
Rick Ridgeway
Rick Ridgeway is an Emmy Award-winning filmmaker, author, photographer and environmentalist, of outdoor adventure related projects from Ojai, California. Ridgeway has achieved many adventures in his life including being a member of the first American team to summit K2...
found him continuing down while on their way to the summit. Wickwire lost parts of two toes and underwent lung surgery.
Nevertheless, Wickwire continued high-altitude climbing.
In 1981, he was on Mount McKinley
Mount McKinley
Mount McKinley or Denali in Alaska, United States is the highest mountain peak in North America and the United States, with a summit elevation of above sea level. It is the centerpiece of Denali National Park and Preserve.- Geology and features :Mount McKinley is a granitic pluton...
with Chris Kerrebrock, who fell into a crevasse
Crevasse
A crevasse is a deep crack in an ice sheet rhys glacier . Crevasses form as a result of the movement and resulting stress associated with the sheer stress generated when two semi-rigid pieces above a plastic substrate have different rates of movement...
, pulling Wickwire in after him. Wickwire was able to get out, but unable to rescue Kerrebrock, who was alive but jammed in facedown. With Wickwire having dislocated a shoulder and being unable to move him, Kerrebrock subsequently died of hypothermia
Hypothermia
Hypothermia is a condition in which core temperature drops below the required temperature for normal metabolism and body functions which is defined as . Body temperature is usually maintained near a constant level of through biologic homeostasis or thermoregulation...
.
He made four (unsuccessful) attempts on the north side of Mount Everest
Mount Everest
Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...
(1982, 1984, 1993, and 2003). In the 1982 expedition, he was next to Marty Hoey
Marty Hoey
Marty Hoey was a mountain climber who took part in the 1982 expedition to Mount Everest. During an attempted ascent that would have made her the first American woman to summit Everest, she plunged over the edge of the Great Couloir and died. The cause of her death was an unsecured climbing...
when her harness came unfastened and she fell to her death.
The film K2
K2 (film)
K2 is a 1991 motion picture loosely based on the story of two friends' ascent of the second-highest mountain on Earth, K2. The story is based on a play written and presented as a senior-thesis at Stanford University. These roles were played by Michael Biehn and Matt Craven...
is based loosely on Wickwire and Reichardt's 1978 K2
K2
K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...
attempt, although there are significant differences between the film and reality.
Books
- Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death (with Dorothy C. Bullitt) (New York: Pocket Books, 1998) ISBN 0-671-01991-0