Knitted fabric
Encyclopedia
Knitted fabrics is the third major class of fabric, after woven
and nonwoven fabrics.
s and other clothing
that requires changes in shape. Hence, dresses and lingerie made from knitted fabrics can be more form-fitting than counterparts made from a woven fabric. Knitted fabrics can stretch, depending on their material and knitting pattern, up to 500 percent of their original size. Lace knitting
generally produces the most flexible fabric, since it has large holes that can deform in shape; by contrast, cable knitting
generally produces the least flexible fabric, since the stitches are crossed under tension, which inhibits deformation. Knitted fabrics that do not deform much are called stable knits. For comparison, woven fabrics typically deform only along their bias direction–i.e., at 45° to the warp and weft directions–and only by a small amount; however, a woven fabric made with an elastane fibre may deform more than a stable knit.
The elasticity of knitted fabrics gives them an excellent drape, but this is opposed somewhat by their generally greater thickness compared to woven
s. Thus, the turn of the cloth (i.e., the maximum curvature of a fold of the fabric) is generally finer in woven fabrics than in knitted fabrics. For this reason, knitted fabrics resist wrinkles better than wovens, but do not generally take a crease.
Knitted fabrics are generally warmer and more comfortable than woven fabrics, which is why they are worn closer to the body. Moreover, knitted fabrics are often made from wool
, which stays warm even when wet; wool is preferred since it is more elastic than most fibers and produces more even, beautiful knits. In general, elasticity and warmth are opposing qualities in a knitted fabric, since the most elastic knitted fabrics, such as lace
, have the largest holes and are thus less insulating.
fabrics such as tricot and weft
-knit fabrics such as a hand-knit sweater. Weft-knit items have the drawback that they run when cut. Warp-knit fabrics are often used in lingerie
.
The basic building blocks of all hand knitting are the following stitches: knit, purl, cast on, cast off, increase and decrease stitches. Use of a combination of these methods can provide a vast number of different textures to knitted fabrics.
In order to save space in knitting patterns, the names of stitches are normally abbreviated
.
's 1916 use of jersey in her hugely influential suits was a turning point for knitwear, which became associated with the liberated woman. Shortly afterwards, Jean Patou
's cubist-inspired, color-blocked knits were the sportswear
of choice.
In the 1940s came the iconic wearing of body-skimming sweaters by sex symbols like Lana Turner
and Jane Russell
, though the 1950s were dominated by conservative popcorn knits. The swinging 1960s were famously manifested in Missoni
's colorful zigzag knitwear. This era also saw the rise both of Sonia Rykiel
, dubbed the "Queen of Knitwear" for her vibrant striped sweaters and her clingy dresses, and of Kennedy
-inspired preppy sweaters.
In the 1980s, knitwear emerged from the realm of sportswear to dominate high fashion; notable designs included Romeo Gigli
's "haute-bohemian cocoon coats" and Ralph Lauren
's floor-length cashmere turtlenecks.
Contemporary knitwear designers include Diane von Furstenberg
and James Perse.
Woven
A woven is a cloth formed by weaving. It only stretches in the bias directions , unless the threads are elastic. Woven cloth usually frays at the edges, unless measures are taken to counter this, such as the use of pinking shears or hemming.Woven fabrics are worked on a loom and made of many...
and nonwoven fabrics.
Elasticity, thickness and warmth
Compared to the other two classes, knitted fabrics are much more elastic, which accounts for their historical use in stockingStocking
A stocking, , is a close-fitting, variously elastic garment covering the foot and lower part of the leg. Stockings vary in color, design and transparency...
s and other clothing
Clothing
Clothing refers to any covering for the human body that is worn. The wearing of clothing is exclusively a human characteristic and is a feature of nearly all human societies...
that requires changes in shape. Hence, dresses and lingerie made from knitted fabrics can be more form-fitting than counterparts made from a woven fabric. Knitted fabrics can stretch, depending on their material and knitting pattern, up to 500 percent of their original size. Lace knitting
Lace knitting
Lace knitting is a style of knitting characterized by stable "holes" in the fabric arranged with consideration of aesthetic value. Lace is sometimes considered the pinnacle of knitting, because of its complexity and because woven fabrics cannot easily be made to have holes...
generally produces the most flexible fabric, since it has large holes that can deform in shape; by contrast, cable knitting
Cable knitting
Cable knitting is a style of knitting in which textures of crossing layers are achieved by permuting stitches. For example, given four stitches appearing on the needle in the order ABCD, one might cross the first two the next two, so that in subsequent rows those stitches appear in the new order...
generally produces the least flexible fabric, since the stitches are crossed under tension, which inhibits deformation. Knitted fabrics that do not deform much are called stable knits. For comparison, woven fabrics typically deform only along their bias direction–i.e., at 45° to the warp and weft directions–and only by a small amount; however, a woven fabric made with an elastane fibre may deform more than a stable knit.
The elasticity of knitted fabrics gives them an excellent drape, but this is opposed somewhat by their generally greater thickness compared to woven
Woven
A woven is a cloth formed by weaving. It only stretches in the bias directions , unless the threads are elastic. Woven cloth usually frays at the edges, unless measures are taken to counter this, such as the use of pinking shears or hemming.Woven fabrics are worked on a loom and made of many...
s. Thus, the turn of the cloth (i.e., the maximum curvature of a fold of the fabric) is generally finer in woven fabrics than in knitted fabrics. For this reason, knitted fabrics resist wrinkles better than wovens, but do not generally take a crease.
Knitted fabrics are generally warmer and more comfortable than woven fabrics, which is why they are worn closer to the body. Moreover, knitted fabrics are often made from wool
Wool
Wool is the textile fiber obtained from sheep and certain other animals, including cashmere from goats, mohair from goats, qiviut from muskoxen, vicuña, alpaca, camel from animals in the camel family, and angora from rabbits....
, which stays warm even when wet; wool is preferred since it is more elastic than most fibers and produces more even, beautiful knits. In general, elasticity and warmth are opposing qualities in a knitted fabric, since the most elastic knitted fabrics, such as lace
Lace knitting
Lace knitting is a style of knitting characterized by stable "holes" in the fabric arranged with consideration of aesthetic value. Lace is sometimes considered the pinnacle of knitting, because of its complexity and because woven fabrics cannot easily be made to have holes...
, have the largest holes and are thus less insulating.
Structure of knitted fabrics
Knitted fabrics are divided into two basic types: warp-knitWarp knitting
Warp knitting is a family of knitting methods in which the yarn zigzags along the length of the fabric, i.e., following adjacent columns of knitting, rather than a single row...
fabrics such as tricot and weft
Weft
In weaving, weft or woof is the yarn which is drawn through the warp yarns to create cloth. In North America, it is sometimes referred to as the "fill" or the "filling yarn"....
-knit fabrics such as a hand-knit sweater. Weft-knit items have the drawback that they run when cut. Warp-knit fabrics are often used in lingerie
Lingerie
Lingerie are fashionable and possibly alluring undergarments.Lingerie usually incorporates one or more flexible, stretchy materials like Lycra, nylon , polyester, satin, lace, silk and sheer fabric which are not typically used in more functional, basic cotton undergarments.The term in the French...
.
- knits can shrink but can also extend if a rib construction
- knits have napNap (textile)Primarily, nap is the raised surface on certain kinds of cloth, such as velvet. Nap can refer additionally to other surfaces that look like the surface of a napped cloth, such as the surface of a felt or beaver hat....
- ribs/wales versus courses
- generally more elasticity along the course than along the wale
Knitting stitches
Over the long history of knitting across the world, hundreds of different knitting stitches have been created.The basic building blocks of all hand knitting are the following stitches: knit, purl, cast on, cast off, increase and decrease stitches. Use of a combination of these methods can provide a vast number of different textures to knitted fabrics.
In order to save space in knitting patterns, the names of stitches are normally abbreviated
Knitting abbreviations
Knitting abbreviations are often used for brevity in describing knitting patterns.Knitting abbreviations can be grouped by what they describe:* knit 2 together* side of work* type of stitch* scope of stitch* orientation of stitch...
.
Composition of knitted fabrics
The most common fibres used for knitted fabrics are cotton & viscose with or without elastane, these tend to be single jersey construction and are used for most t-shirt style tops.History of knitwear
Coco ChanelCoco Chanel
Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel was a pioneering French fashion designer whose modernist thought, menswear-inspired fashions, and pursuit of expensive simplicity made her an important figure in 20th-century fashion. She was the founder of one of the most famous fashion brands, Chanel...
's 1916 use of jersey in her hugely influential suits was a turning point for knitwear, which became associated with the liberated woman. Shortly afterwards, Jean Patou
Jean Patou
- Early life :Patou was born in Normandy, France in 1880. Patou's family's business was tanning and furs. Patou worked with his uncle in Normandy, then moved to Paris in 1910, intent on becoming a couturier.-1910s - World War I and later:...
's cubist-inspired, color-blocked knits were the sportswear
Sportswear
Sportswear or activewear is clothing, including footwear, worn for sport or physical exercise. Sport-specific clothing is worn for most sports and physical exercise, for practical, comfort or safety reasons....
of choice.
In the 1940s came the iconic wearing of body-skimming sweaters by sex symbols like Lana Turner
Lana Turner
Lana Turner was an American actress.Discovered and signed to a film contract by MGM at the age of sixteen, Turner first attracted attention in They Won't Forget . She played featured roles, often as the ingenue, in such films as Love Finds Andy Hardy...
and Jane Russell
Jane Russell
Jane Russell was an American film actress and was one of Hollywood's leading sex symbols in the 1940s and 1950s....
, though the 1950s were dominated by conservative popcorn knits. The swinging 1960s were famously manifested in Missoni
Missoni
Missoni is an Italian fashion house based in Varese. It is famous for its unique knitwear, made from a variety of fabrics in colourful patterns. The company was founded by Ottavio and Rosita Missoni in 1953.-Brands:...
's colorful zigzag knitwear. This era also saw the rise both of Sonia Rykiel
Sonia Rykiel
Sonia Rykiel née Flis is a French fashion designer.Ethnically a Polish-Romanian Jew, Sonia Rykiel was born in Neuilly a commune in the western suburbs of Paris, France, the eldest of five daughters of a Polish mother and a Romanian father. At the age of 17, she was employed to dress the window...
, dubbed the "Queen of Knitwear" for her vibrant striped sweaters and her clingy dresses, and of Kennedy
Kennedy family
In the United States, the phrase Kennedy family commonly refers to the family descending from the marriage of the Irish-Americans Joseph P. Kennedy, Sr. and Rose Elizabeth Fitzgerald that was prominent in American politics and government. Their political involvement has revolved around the...
-inspired preppy sweaters.
In the 1980s, knitwear emerged from the realm of sportswear to dominate high fashion; notable designs included Romeo Gigli
Romeo Gigli
Romeo Gigli is an Italian fashion designer. He was born in Castel Bolognese.He rose to fame in 1986, and influenced other designers with what the Los Angeles Times described as "soft look, body-hugging dresses with draped bubble skirts"....
's "haute-bohemian cocoon coats" and Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren is an American fashion designer and business executive; best known for his Polo Ralph Lauren clothing brand.-Early life:...
's floor-length cashmere turtlenecks.
Contemporary knitwear designers include Diane von Furstenberg
Diane von Fürstenberg
Diane von Fürstenberg, formerly Princess Diane of Fürstenberg , is a Belgian-American fashion designer best known for her iconic wrap dress. She initially rose to prominence when she married into the German princely House of Fürstenberg, as the wife of Prince Egon of Fürstenberg...
and James Perse.