Lokomotive
Encyclopedia
The Lokomotive is a striking climbing rock
north of Kurort Rathen in Saxon Switzerland
in Germany. The rock, which resembles a steam locomotive in appearance, is also known as Große Ruine, is about 30 metres high and is divided into two parts: known as Lokomotive-Dom ("Locomotive Dome") and Lokomotive-Esse ("Locomotive Chimney"). The ridge between the two is called the Kesselgrat ("Boiler Ridge"), the rock teeth next to the Esse as Pfeife ("Whistle"). For a short time there was a weather vane on the dome in the shape of a wheel. The Lokomotive rises on the massif of the Honigsteine.
The Dome of the Lokomotive was first climbed in 1886 by Friedrich Hartmann and Robert Kappmeier. In the history of free climbing
in Saxon Switzerland the climb of the Esse on 7 June 1903 by Albert Kunze and Oliver Perry-Smith
was the first ascent of the Esse and the first step in climbing the open face. Until then climbers had focussed on chimneys and crevices. The first ascent of the grade
V Lokomotivüberfall climbing route
on the Esse unleashed an intensive period of climbing in Saxon Switzerland that lasted until 1910, during which climbers like Kunze, Perry-Smith and Rudolf Fehrmann
made the first ascent of many important climbing peak
s, like the Barbarine
, the Große Herkulessäule, the Jungfer or the Teufelsturm
.
Climbing rock
A climbing rock is a term used especially in Germany for an individual rock formation, rock face or rock group on which climbing is permitted. Designated climbing rocks are listed in climbing guidebooks and are usually incorporated and marked within the climbing areas of the alpine clubs. The...
north of Kurort Rathen in Saxon Switzerland
Saxon Switzerland
Saxon Switzerland is a hilly climbing area and national park around the Elbe valley south-east of Dresden in Saxony, Germany. Together with the Bohemian Switzerland in the Czech Republic it forms the Elbe Sandstone Mountains....
in Germany. The rock, which resembles a steam locomotive in appearance, is also known as Große Ruine, is about 30 metres high and is divided into two parts: known as Lokomotive-Dom ("Locomotive Dome") and Lokomotive-Esse ("Locomotive Chimney"). The ridge between the two is called the Kesselgrat ("Boiler Ridge"), the rock teeth next to the Esse as Pfeife ("Whistle"). For a short time there was a weather vane on the dome in the shape of a wheel. The Lokomotive rises on the massif of the Honigsteine.
The Dome of the Lokomotive was first climbed in 1886 by Friedrich Hartmann and Robert Kappmeier. In the history of free climbing
Free climbing
Free climbing is a type of rock climbing in which the climber uses only hands, feet and other parts of the body to ascend, employing ropes and forms of climbing protection to prevent falls only....
in Saxon Switzerland the climb of the Esse on 7 June 1903 by Albert Kunze and Oliver Perry-Smith
Oliver Perry-Smith
Oliver Perry-Smith was an American rock climber, mountaineer and skier who moved to Dresden in 1902 to attend a technical university.- Climbs in Saxon Switzerland :...
was the first ascent of the Esse and the first step in climbing the open face. Until then climbers had focussed on chimneys and crevices. The first ascent of the grade
Grade (climbing)
In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
V Lokomotivüberfall climbing route
Climbing route
A climbing route is a path by which a climber reaches the top of a mountain, rock, or ice wall. Routes can vary dramatically in difficulty and, once committed to that ascent, can be difficult to stop or return. Choice of route can be critically important...
on the Esse unleashed an intensive period of climbing in Saxon Switzerland that lasted until 1910, during which climbers like Kunze, Perry-Smith and Rudolf Fehrmann
Rudolf Fehrmann
Rudolf Fehrmann , a German, was a pioneer rock climber at Elbsandsteingebirge near Dresden. He began climbing at the age of 17 and was soon at the leading edge of the fledgling sport...
made the first ascent of many important climbing peak
Climbing peak
A climbing peak may refer to a mountain or hill peak or a rock formation that has to be ascended by climbing. The term is common in Germany where it is specifically used of free-standing rock formations in the climbing regions of Saxon Switzerland, Zittau Mountains and other nearby ranges in the...
s, like the Barbarine
Barbarine
The Barbarine is the best-known, free-standing rock formation in the German part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. It is a rock pinnacle, high, and is the symbol of Saxon Switzerland...
, the Große Herkulessäule, the Jungfer or the Teufelsturm
Teufelsturm (Saxon Switzerland)
The Teufelsturm is a prominent rock tower and climbing rock formed of Elbe Sandstone, about forty metres high in Saxon Switzerland in East Germany. It is located east of the River Elbe on the upper edge of the valley between Schmilka and Bad Schandau in the Schrammsteinen...
.
Sources
- Karl Däweritz: Klettern im Sächsischen Fels, Sportverlag Berlin, Berlin 1979
- Dietmar Heinicke (Hrsg.): Kletterführer Sächsische Schweiz, Band Wehlener Gebiet/Rathener Gebiet/Brand, Dresden 2003, ISBN 3934514065
- Rudolf Fehrmann: Der Bergsteiger in der Sächsischen Schweiz, Verlagsanstalt Johannes Siegel, Dresden 1908