Malcolm Smith (climber)
Encyclopedia
Malcolm Smith is an elite rock climber born in Dunbar
Dunbar
Dunbar is a town in East Lothian on the southeast coast of Scotland, approximately 28 miles east of Edinburgh and 28 miles from the English Border at Berwick-upon-Tweed....

, Scotland
Scotland
Scotland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Occupying the northern third of the island of Great Britain, it shares a border with England to the south and is bounded by the North Sea to the east, the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, and the North Channel and Irish Sea to the...

. He is the brother of Scottish Visual Artist Sandy Smith
Sandy Smith
Sandy Smith is a Scottish visual artist currently based in New York City. He is the younger brother of professional Rock Climber Malcolm Smith and experimental psychologist Kenny Smith.-Biography:...

.

Climbing since 1988, he has developed an impressive list of repeated hard climbs, notably repeating Ben Moon
Ben Moon
Ben Moon is a rock climber from England. During the late 1980s and early 1990s, Ben Moon, along with his climbing partner Jerry Moffatt drove forward the level of sport climbing in the UK especially, but also throughout the world. He was the first person to climb a route at the grade of 8c+,...

's 1990 testpiece Hubble at Raven Tor aged only 18. Smith is particularly known for his commitment to tough training regimes and for his focus on bouldering: one of only a handful of climbers to have repeated the classic Dreamtime at Cresciano
Cresciano
Cresciano is a municipality in the district of Riviera in the canton of Ticino in Switzerland.-History:Cresciano is first mentioned in 1269 as Crazano....

, he has also created new problems up to Font 8b+ such as Monk Life in Northumberland
Northumberland
Northumberland is the northernmost ceremonial county and a unitary district in North East England. For Eurostat purposes Northumberland is a NUTS 3 region and is one of three boroughs or unitary districts that comprise the "Northumberland and Tyne and Wear" NUTS 2 region...

 and Pilgrimage at Parisella's cave in North Wales
Wales
Wales is a country that is part of the United Kingdom and the island of Great Britain, bordered by England to its east and the Atlantic Ocean and Irish Sea to its west. It has a population of three million, and a total area of 20,779 km²...

.

Smith has also competed internationally and is sponsored by Scarpa and Moon Climbing
Ben Moon
Ben Moon is a rock climber from England. During the late 1980s and early 1990s, Ben Moon, along with his climbing partner Jerry Moffatt drove forward the level of sport climbing in the UK especially, but also throughout the world. He was the first person to climb a route at the grade of 8c+,...

.

Films

Smith's training techniques were the subject of the black and white short film Splinter by Slackjaw Films. This was originally included as a free extra on their DVD "Blood, Sweat and Bagels", but has since come to be regarded as a classic climbing short in its own right.
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