Marko Prezelj
Encyclopedia
Marko Prezelj is a Slovenia
n mountaineer and photographer.
Prezelj received two Piolet d'Or
awards. He won the inaugural "Oscar of mountaineering" in 1992 with Andrej Štremfelj for their new route on the south ridge of Kangchenjunga South
(8476) in alpine style
. The second he received in 2007 with Boris Lorenčič, for the first ascent of Chomolhari
's northwest pillar in October 2006. Prezelj rejected his second award because of his concern about the dangers of a competition.
Prezelj has a degree in Chemical Engineering
and is a IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide and climbing instructor. He is married and has two sons.
Slovenia
Slovenia , officially the Republic of Slovenia , is a country in Central and Southeastern Europe touching the Alps and bordering the Mediterranean. Slovenia borders Italy to the west, Croatia to the south and east, Hungary to the northeast, and Austria to the north, and also has a small portion of...
n mountaineer and photographer.
Prezelj received two Piolet d'Or
Piolet d'Or
The Piolet d'Or is an annual mountaineering award given by the French magazine Montagnes and The Groupe de Haute Montagne since 1991...
awards. He won the inaugural "Oscar of mountaineering" in 1992 with Andrej Štremfelj for their new route on the south ridge of Kangchenjunga South
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third highest mountain of the world with an elevation of and located along the India-Nepal border in the Himalayas.Kangchenjunga is also the name of the section of the Himalayas and means "The Five Treasures of Snows", as it contains five peaks, four of them over...
(8476) in alpine style
Alpine style
Alpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter, equipment etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure...
. The second he received in 2007 with Boris Lorenčič, for the first ascent of Chomolhari
Chomolhari
Jomolhari or Chomolhari sometimes known as "the bride of Kangchenjunga”, is a mountain in the Himalayas, straddling the border between Yadong County of Tibet and the Thimphu district of Bhutan. The north face rises over above the barren plains...
's northwest pillar in October 2006. Prezelj rejected his second award because of his concern about the dangers of a competition.
Prezelj has a degree in Chemical Engineering
Chemical engineering
Chemical engineering is the branch of engineering that deals with physical science , and life sciences with mathematics and economics, to the process of converting raw materials or chemicals into more useful or valuable forms...
and is a IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide and climbing instructor. He is married and has two sons.
Ascents (selection)
- 1987 Lhotse Shar Expedition (reached 7300 m)
- 1988 New route on the north face of Cho OyuCho OyuCho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu lies in the Himalayas and is 20 km west of Mount Everest, at the border between China and Nepal...
- 1989 Shisha Pangma south face attempt; solo ascent of the Kang Ri (6240 m)
- 1991 Kangchenjunga (8476 m) south ridge new route, first ascent of Boktoh (6142 m), second ascent of Talung (7349 m)
- 1992 First ascent of MelungtseMelungtseMelungtse is the highest mountain of the Rolwaling Himal in the Himalayas.The peak has a long summit ridge capped by the east summit and the west summit, also known as Melungtse II, 7,023m...
(7181 m) - 1993 El Capitan, fifth ascent of Wyoming Sheep Ranch
- 1995 Torre Norte del PaineCordillera del PaineThe Cordillera del Paine is a small but spectacular mountain group in Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia. It is located north of Punta Arenas, and about 1,960 km south of the Chilean capital Santiago. It belongs to the Commune of Torres del Paine in Última Esperanza Province...
in Chile. - 1998 New route on Porong Ri East Summit (7284 m) and Yebokangal Ri (7332 m)
- 1999 First ascent of the north wall of the Gyachung KangGyachung KangGyachung Kang is a mountain in the Mahalangur Himal section of the Himalaya, and is the highest peak between Cho Oyu and Mount Everest . It lies on the border between Nepal and China...
(7952 m) - 2000 Second ascent of the "Golden Pillar" of SpantikSpantikSpantik or Golden Peak is a mountain in Spantik-Sosbun Mountains subrange of Karakoram. Its northwest face features an exceptionally hard climbing route known as the "Golden Pillar". It lies east of Diran and northeast of Malubiting.-Climbing:...
- 2001 Begguya and Denali (6193 m)in Alaska - "Light Traveller" on the south face, new route, free climbed in a single push style, and NilkanthNilkanthNilkanth is a name used to refer to Shiva, one of the Hindu trinity of Creator , Preserver , and Destroyer .According to the Purnas, Shiva received this name as he drank the poison that emerged from the oceans after it was churned for getting 'amrut' - the nectar of immortality...
west ridge (6596 m) - 2002 NuptseNuptseNuptse is a mountain in the Khumbu region of the Mahalangur Himal, in the Nepalese Himalayas. It lies two kilometres WSW of Mount Everest. Nuptse is Tibetan for "west peak", as it is the western segment of the Lhotse-Nuptse massif....
south face attempt - 2004 North Twin North Face ascent with Steve House and Kapura Peak (6544m), new route and first ascent
- 2005 Cayesh new route
- 2006 "The Long Run" on Cerro Torre and "Extreme Emotions" on Cerro Standhardt, free on sight ascent of "Cobra Oillar" on Mt. Barille (Alaska) andChomolhari (7326 m) northwest pillar
- 2007 First ascent of K7 in Karakoram
- 2008 New route on W face of Kangchungtse (7678 m)
- 2009 Baghirathi IV, III and II new routes
- 2010 Bisotun Wall, Iran, new route
- 2011 Makalu W face attempt (reached 7000 m) and integral ridge traverse of Chago peaks