Martin Margiela
Encyclopedia
Martin Margiela is a Belgian fashion designer. He studied at Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts along with the legendary avantgarde fashion collective the Antwerp Six
. Many still consider him to be the "7th" member of the collective.
women's line.
During the 1980s, the Japanese avantgardists, with Rei Kawakubo
—creator of the label Comme des Garçons
—had turned the fashion scene upside-down with their eccentric and ground-breaking designs. Martin Margiela and the Antwerp Six
would carry on the work, revolting against the luxurious fashion world with garments of oversized proportions such as long arms, and with linings, seams and hems on the outside. The concept of deconstruction
, also embraced by the aforementioned Rei Kawakubo, is important for the understanding of Martin Margiela's fashion statement. Margiela famously redesigns by hand objects such as old wigs, canvases and silk scarves into couture garments.
Throughout his career, Martin Margiela has maintained an extremely low profile. He has never had his picture taken and remains backstage after his shows. All media contact is dealt with via fax. Maison Martin Margiela’s ultradiscreet trademark consists of a piece of cloth with the numbers 0-23 (see table below). The badge is attached to the inside with its four little white pick stitches, exposed to the outside on unlined garments. For the 20'th anniversary the anonymous tag was replaced by a classic logotype.
Margiela's brand was acquired by the Diesel brand in 2002 and industry insiders quoted in the article suggested that Martin Margiela may desire to leave due to creative differences, or simply, "... a desire to enjoy his life outside the insistent glare of the fashion world."
An article in New York Times dated October 1, 2008, gave many in the fashion world their first glimpse of Margiela's face, as well as breaking the news that he allegedly offered to hand the reins of his company over to Raf Simons
, who appears to have declined the offer. Haider Ackermann
was later offered the position as creative director, but similarly turned it down.
In October, 2009, Margiela majority stakeholder Renzo Rosso
finally made public: "Martin has not been there for a long time. He is here but not here. We have a new fresh design team on board. We are focusing on young, realistic energy for the future; this is really Margiela for the year 2015."
A press release announced in December, that Margiela "has left the business. No replacement creative director will be appointed. Maison Martin Margiela will continue trading but the company declined to comment on the reasons for Margiela’s exit."
Artisanal garments by Margiela have been part of his collection since the fall/winter 1989-90 collection. Made by hand at the firm's atelier in Paris out of vintage materials, the hi Artisanal collection is limited in quantity.
The original Margiela collection, which eschews the numbered tag for a blank, white label. This is Margiela's primary pret-a-porter line for women.
Introduced in 1999, 10 is made of disparate garments of equally high standards of material and construction, to be freely combined. A T-shirt, jeans, and suit jacket could be worn together.
First shown for spring/summer 2004, 4 is a line of garments expressly meant for comfort and intimacy.
Introduced in spring/summer 2005, 14 is meant to "evoke timelessness." To emphasize how 14 bridges the past and the present, each season Margiela produces a set of replica items. These resemble the original as closely as possible and are labeled with their origin and period.
MM6. Garments for women
MM6 are more casual garments for women, generally less conceptual than the avant-garde 1 line.
12. Fine jewellery collection.
3. Collection of fragrances. Début (Untitled) in 2010.
, the designer of Balenciaga, has said on several occasions that he is a fan of Margiela and often wears Margiela's clothes.
Maison Martin Margiela was invited to curate the first issue of A MAGAZINE curated by in 2004, and has since contributed to further issues.
In October 2008, Maison Martin Margiela celebrates its 20th anniversary. For this occasion, the Fashion Museum Antwerp presents the unique exhibition, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA ( 20) The exhibition. Conceived in close collaboration with Maison Martin Margiela, this exhibition takes place at the Antwerp Fashion Museum from 12 September 2008 through 8 February 2009.
Hip Hop superstar Jay-Z
cites his affinity for Margiela's work on his 2009 hit single "Run This Town
."
Kanye West
as part of his 2011 effort with Jay-Z
called Watch the Throne
asks rhetorically on "Niggas in Paris
" the question "What's that jacket, Margiela?"
UK rap artist Bashy
mentions the brand saying "Now I'm purchasin Maison Martin Margiela coats" in the Till I'm Gone remix.
Thom Yorke
, frontman of the band Radiohead
, is often seen wearing Margiela during live shows.
Antwerp Six
The Antwerp Six refers to a group of influential avant garde fashion designers who graduated from Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts between 1980-1981. At the Academy they were taught by Linda Loppa. The fashion collective presented a distinct, radical vision for fashion during the 1980s that...
. Many still consider him to be the "7th" member of the collective.
Life and work
After graduation in 1980 he worked as a freelance designer for five years. Between 1985 and 1987 he worked for Jean Paul Gaultier, before showing his first collection under his own label in 1989. Between 1997 to 2003 he became, despite his non-traditional design, the creative director of the HermèsHermès
Hermès International S.A., or simply Hermès is a French high fashion house established in 1837, today specializing in leather, lifestyle accessories, perfumery, luxury goods, and ready-to-wear...
women's line.
During the 1980s, the Japanese avantgardists, with Rei Kawakubo
Rei Kawakubo
is a Japanese fashion designer, founder of Comme des Garçons.She is untrained as a fashion designer, but studied fine arts and literature at Keio University. After graduation, Kawakubo worked in a textile company and began working as a freelance stylist in 1967....
—creator of the label Comme des Garçons
Comme des Garçons
Comme des Garçons, written コム・デ・ギャルソン in Japanese and French for "Like Boys," is a Japanese fashion label headed by Rei Kawakubo, who owns the company with her husband Adrian Joffe....
—had turned the fashion scene upside-down with their eccentric and ground-breaking designs. Martin Margiela and the Antwerp Six
Antwerp Six
The Antwerp Six refers to a group of influential avant garde fashion designers who graduated from Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts between 1980-1981. At the Academy they were taught by Linda Loppa. The fashion collective presented a distinct, radical vision for fashion during the 1980s that...
would carry on the work, revolting against the luxurious fashion world with garments of oversized proportions such as long arms, and with linings, seams and hems on the outside. The concept of deconstruction
Deconstructivism
Deconstructivism is a development of postmodern architecture that began in the late 1980s. It is characterized by ideas of fragmentation, an interest in manipulating ideas of a structure's surface or skin, non-rectilinear shapes which serve to distort and dislocate some of the elements of...
, also embraced by the aforementioned Rei Kawakubo, is important for the understanding of Martin Margiela's fashion statement. Margiela famously redesigns by hand objects such as old wigs, canvases and silk scarves into couture garments.
Throughout his career, Martin Margiela has maintained an extremely low profile. He has never had his picture taken and remains backstage after his shows. All media contact is dealt with via fax. Maison Martin Margiela’s ultradiscreet trademark consists of a piece of cloth with the numbers 0-23 (see table below). The badge is attached to the inside with its four little white pick stitches, exposed to the outside on unlined garments. For the 20'th anniversary the anonymous tag was replaced by a classic logotype.
Margiela's brand was acquired by the Diesel brand in 2002 and industry insiders quoted in the article suggested that Martin Margiela may desire to leave due to creative differences, or simply, "... a desire to enjoy his life outside the insistent glare of the fashion world."
An article in New York Times dated October 1, 2008, gave many in the fashion world their first glimpse of Margiela's face, as well as breaking the news that he allegedly offered to hand the reins of his company over to Raf Simons
Raf Simons
Raf Simons is a Belgian fashion designer. He studied Industrial design, but after a few years of self-study, he became a menswear designer in 1995...
, who appears to have declined the offer. Haider Ackermann
Haider Ackermann
Haider Ackermann is a French designer of ready-to-wear fashion.Born in Bogotá, Colombia in 1971, he was adopted at the age of nine months by a French Alsatian family. His adoptive father is a mapmaker...
was later offered the position as creative director, but similarly turned it down.
In October, 2009, Margiela majority stakeholder Renzo Rosso
Renzo Rosso
Renzo Rosso is an Italian fashion entrepreneur. Referred to as the "Jeans Genius" by Suzy Menkes, he is the founder and President of fashion brand Diesel...
finally made public: "Martin has not been there for a long time. He is here but not here. We have a new fresh design team on board. We are focusing on young, realistic energy for the future; this is really Margiela for the year 2015."
A press release announced in December, that Margiela "has left the business. No replacement creative director will be appointed. Maison Martin Margiela will continue trading but the company declined to comment on the reasons for Margiela’s exit."
Ranges
- 0 Garments redesigned by hand for women / Artisanal
- 0 +10. Garments redesigned by hand for men / Artisanal
Artisanal garments by Margiela have been part of his collection since the fall/winter 1989-90 collection. Made by hand at the firm's atelier in Paris out of vintage materials, the hi Artisanal collection is limited in quantity.
- 1. The collection for women
The original Margiela collection, which eschews the numbered tag for a blank, white label. This is Margiela's primary pret-a-porter line for women.
- 10. The collection for men
Introduced in 1999, 10 is made of disparate garments of equally high standards of material and construction, to be freely combined. A T-shirt, jeans, and suit jacket could be worn together.
- 4. A wardrobe for women
First shown for spring/summer 2004, 4 is a line of garments expressly meant for comfort and intimacy.
- 6. MM6 by Maison Margiela- Garment for Women
- 14. A wardrobe for men
Introduced in spring/summer 2005, 14 is meant to "evoke timelessness." To emphasize how 14 bridges the past and the present, each season Margiela produces a set of replica items. These resemble the original as closely as possible and are labeled with their origin and period.
- 11. A collection of accessories for women and men
- 22. A collection of shoes for women and men
MM6. Garments for women
MM6 are more casual garments for women, generally less conceptual than the avant-garde 1 line.
- 8. Eyewear for men and women
- 13. Other objects and magazines
12. Fine jewellery collection.
3. Collection of fragrances. Début (Untitled) in 2010.
Stores
In his stores, salespeople wear white lab coats. Deconstructed store in unusual locations away from expensive fashion streets.- 23, rue de Montpensier Paris 75001 France
- 114, rue de Flandre 1000 Bruxelles Belgium
- 2-8-13 Ebisu Minami, Shibuya Tokyo 150-0022 Japan
- 23-a Crocus City Mall, Krasnogosk, Moscow, Russia
- Bolshoi Prospekt, 287, St. Petersburg, Russia
- 803 Greenwich Street New York 10014 USA
- 9970 South Santa Monica Blvd Beverly Hills CA 90212
- 3F, N°300, Sec.3, Jhongsiao E road, Taipei Taiwan (formerly a Burger King)
- Via della Spiga, 46 20121 Milano Italy
- 34, Maximilian str 34 Munich, Germany
- 3930 NE 2nd Avenue, Suite 101, Miami FL, 33137
Trivia
Nicolas GhesquiereNicolas Ghesquière
Nicolas Ghesquière is a fashion designer and is currently creative director for the house of Balenciaga owned by the Gucci Group . He grew up in Loudun, Vienne....
, the designer of Balenciaga, has said on several occasions that he is a fan of Margiela and often wears Margiela's clothes.
Maison Martin Margiela was invited to curate the first issue of A MAGAZINE curated by in 2004, and has since contributed to further issues.
In October 2008, Maison Martin Margiela celebrates its 20th anniversary. For this occasion, the Fashion Museum Antwerp presents the unique exhibition, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA ( 20) The exhibition. Conceived in close collaboration with Maison Martin Margiela, this exhibition takes place at the Antwerp Fashion Museum from 12 September 2008 through 8 February 2009.
Hip Hop superstar Jay-Z
Jay-Z
Shawn Corey Carter , better known by his stage name Jay-Z, is an American rapper, record producer, entrepreneur, and occasional actor. He is one of the most financially successful hip hop artists and entrepreneurs in America, having a net worth of over $450 million as of 2010...
cites his affinity for Margiela's work on his 2009 hit single "Run This Town
Run This Town
"Run This Town" is a 2009 song performed by American rappers Jay-Z and Kanye West. The song features Rihanna. The track was produced by Kanye West alongside No I.D. It is released as the second single of Jay-Z's eleventh studio album The Blueprint 3...
."
Kanye West
Kanye West
Kanye Omari West is an American rapper, singer, and record producer. West first rose to fame as a producer for Roc-A-Fella Records, where he eventually achieved recognition for his work on Jay-Z's album The Blueprint, as well as hit singles for musical artists including Alicia Keys, Ludacris, and...
as part of his 2011 effort with Jay-Z
Jay-Z
Shawn Corey Carter , better known by his stage name Jay-Z, is an American rapper, record producer, entrepreneur, and occasional actor. He is one of the most financially successful hip hop artists and entrepreneurs in America, having a net worth of over $450 million as of 2010...
called Watch the Throne
Watch the Throne
Watch the Throne is a collaborative studio album by American rappers Jay-Z and Kanye West, released on August 8, 2011, by Roc-A-Fella Records, Roc Nation, and Def Jam Recordings. Recording sessions for the album took place at various recording locations and began in November 2010. It was...
asks rhetorically on "Niggas in Paris
Niggas in Paris
"Niggas in Paris" is a song by American rappers Kanye West and Jay-Z, released as the fourth single from their collaboration album Watch the Throne. It debuted at #75 on the US Billboard Hot 100 on the week of the album's release...
" the question "What's that jacket, Margiela?"
UK rap artist Bashy
Bashy
Ashley Thomas , better known by his stage name Bashy, is an English recording artist and actor. He rose to prominence in 2007 after the release of his controversial track "Black Boys".-Early life:...
mentions the brand saying "Now I'm purchasin Maison Martin Margiela coats" in the Till I'm Gone remix.
Thom Yorke
Thom Yorke
Thomas "Thom" Edward Yorke is an English musician who is the lead vocalist and principal songwriter for Radiohead. He mainly plays guitar and piano, but he has also played drums and bass guitar...
, frontman of the band Radiohead
Radiohead
Radiohead are an English rock band from Abingdon, Oxfordshire, formed in 1985. The band consists of Thom Yorke , Jonny Greenwood , Ed O'Brien , Colin Greenwood and Phil Selway .Radiohead released their debut single "Creep" in 1992...
, is often seen wearing Margiela during live shows.