Mount Hunter (Alaska)
Encyclopedia
Mount Hunter, or Begguya, is a mountain
Mountain
Image:Himalaya_annotated.jpg|thumb|right|The Himalayan mountain range with Mount Everestrect 58 14 160 49 Chomo Lonzorect 200 28 335 52 Makalurect 378 24 566 45 Mount Everestrect 188 581 920 656 Tibetan Plateaurect 250 406 340 427 Rong River...

 in Denali National Park
Denali National Park and Preserve
Denali National Park and Preserve is located in Interior Alaska and contains Denali , the highest mountain in North America. The park and preserve together cover 9,492 mi² .The longest glacier is the Kalhiltna glacier....

 in Alaska
Alaska
Alaska is the largest state in the United States by area. It is situated in the northwest extremity of the North American continent, with Canada to the east, the Arctic Ocean to the north, and the Pacific Ocean to the west and south, with Russia further west across the Bering Strait...

. It is approximately 8 miles (13 km) south of Mount McKinley
Mount McKinley
Mount McKinley or Denali in Alaska, United States is the highest mountain peak in North America and the United States, with a summit elevation of above sea level. It is the centerpiece of Denali National Park and Preserve.- Geology and features :Mount McKinley is a granitic pluton...

, or Denali, the highest peak in North America. "Begguya" means child (of Denali) in the Dena'ina language. Mount Hunter is the third highest major peak in the Alaska Range
Alaska Range
The Alaska Range is a relatively narrow, 650-km-long mountain range in the southcentral region of the U.S. state of Alaska, from Lake Clark at its southwest end to the White River in Canada's Yukon Territory in the southeast...

.

Mount Hunter has a complex structure: it is topped by a large, low-angled glacier plateau, connecting the North (Main) Summit and the South Summit (13,965 feet/4,257 m). Long, corniced ridges extend in various directions; between them are exceptionally steep faces.

Naming of the mountain

The native name for the mountain is Begguya, meaning "Denali's Child." Early prospectors referred to the mountain as Mount Roosevelt.
In 1903, Robert Dunn, a reporter for the "New York Commercial Advertiser," visited the area as part of Frederick Cook
Frederick Cook
Frederick Albert Cook was an American explorer and physician, noted for his claim of having reached the North Pole on April 21, 1908. This would have been a year before April 6, 1909, the date claimed by Robert Peary....

's attempt to climb Mount McKinley. He bestowed the name of his aunt Anna Falconnet Hunter (1885–1941), who financed his trip, on a high nearby mountain, prominent from the northwest. This was in fact a different peak, now known as Kahiltna Dome. Unfortunately, the name Hunter was mistakenly applied to the present-day Mount Hunter by a government surveyor in 1906.

In October 2010, the south summit was named Mount Stevens
Mount Stevens (Alaska)
Mount Stevens is a mountain located in Matanuska-Susitna Borough, Alaska.Mount Stevens is flanked to the northwest by Mount Hunter, and is about south of Mount McKinley....

, after Ted Stevens
Ted Stevens
Theodore Fulton "Ted" Stevens, Sr. was a United States Senator from Alaska, serving from December 24, 1968, until January 3, 2009, and thus the longest-serving Republican senator in history...

 (1923–2010), Alaska's former senator (1968–2009), who had died in a plane crash in August.

Climbing history

Despite being much lower in elevation than Mount McKinley, Mount Hunter is a more difficult climb, due to its steep faces and corniced ridges; it also sees far less traffic than its larger neighbor.

Fred Beckey
Fred Beckey
Fred Beckey is an American mountaineer and author, who has made hundreds of first ascents, more than any other North American climber.-Early years:...

, Heinrich Harrer
Heinrich Harrer
Heinrich Harrer was an Austrian mountaineer, sportsman, geographer, and author.He is best known for his books Seven Years in Tibet and The White Spider .-Athletics:...

 and Henry Meybohm completed the first ascent in 1954, via the long West Ridge; this was a great accomplishment for the time, and used techniques such as extensive front-pointing which were unusual in the climbing world.

Beginning in 1977, with Michael Kennedy and George Lowe's climb of a route on the northwest face of Mount Hunter, this steep rock and ice face has been the scene of many landmark hard climbs.

Notable ascents

  • 1954 West Ridge - FA of peak by Fred Beckey
    Fred Beckey
    Fred Beckey is an American mountaineer and author, who has made hundreds of first ascents, more than any other North American climber.-Early years:...

    , Heinrich Harrer
    Heinrich Harrer
    Heinrich Harrer was an Austrian mountaineer, sportsman, geographer, and author.He is best known for his books Seven Years in Tibet and The White Spider .-Athletics:...

     and Henry Meybohm
  • 1979 South Spur by John Mallon Waterman, described as a "visionary climber" by John Krakauer in a 1993 Outside magazine article about Christopher McCandless
    Christopher McCandless
    Christopher Johnson McCandless was an American hitchhiker who adopted the name Alexander Supertramp and hiked into the Alaskan wilderness in April 1992 with little food and equipment, hoping to live for a time in solitude...

    , in which Krakauer compares the two adventurers.
  • 1981 Moonflower Buttress (Alaska Grade 6: 5.8 A3 AI6 6100') FA to last rock band by Mugs Stump
    Mugs Stump
    Mugs Stump was a noted American rock climber and mountaineer, active in establishing difficult first ascents in the Alaska Range and the Canadian Rockies...

     and Paul Aubry (NZ).
  • 1983 Moonflower Buttress to summit, first complete ascent by Todd Bibler and Doug Klewin.
  • 1989 Northwest Face FA by Conrad Anker
    Conrad Anker
    Conrad Anker is an American rock climber, mountaineer, and author famous for his challenging ascents in the high Himalaya and Antarctica. He is a member of The North Face climbing team and also works closely with Timex Expedition as brand ambassador...

     and Seth 'S.T.' Shaw, summit attained July 3, 1989.
  • 1994 Deprivation, (Alaska Grade 6, Alpine ED+, 90deg ice) FA by Scott Backes and Mark Francis Twight.
  • 1994 Wall of Shadows, (Alaska Grade 6, AI6+ 5.9 A4) FA by Greg Child
    Greg Child
    Greg Child is an Australian-born rock climber, mountaineer, author and filmmaker.He is a writer for "Outside magazine" and has authored several books: "Thin Air: Encounters in the Himalayas", "Mixed Emotions: Mountaineering Writings of Greg Child", "Postcards from the Ledge", "Over the Edge" and...

     and Michael Kennedy
    Michael Kennedy (climber)
    Michael Kennedy is an American rock climber, alpinist, photographer, writer and editor.From 1974 to 1998 he was the editor of Climbing magazine, the most influential of American climbing magazines...

    .

See also

  • 4000 meter peaks of Alaska
  • 4000 meter peaks of North America
  • 4000 meter peaks of the United States
  • Mountain peaks of Alaska
    Mountain peaks of Alaska
    This article comprises three sortable tables of mountain peaks of the U.S. State of Alaska.Topographic elevation is the vertical distance above the reference geoid, a precise mathematical model of the Earth's sea level as an equipotential gravitational surface. Topographic prominence is the...

  • Mountain peaks of North America
    Mountain peaks of North America
    This article comprises three sortable tables of major mountain peaks of greater North America.This article defines greater North America as the portion of the continental landmass of the Americas extending northward from Panama plus the islands surrounding that landmass...

  • Mountain peaks of the United States
    Mountain peaks of the United States
    This article comprises three sortable tables of the major mountain peaks of the United States of America.Topographic elevation is the vertical distance above the reference geoid, a precise mathematical model of the Earth's sea level as an equipotential gravitational surface...


External links

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