Nagoya Castle
Encyclopedia
is a Japanese castle
located in Nagoya, central Japan
. During the Edo period
, Nagoya Castle was the center of one of the most important castle town
s in Japan—Nagoya-juku
— and it included the most important stops along the Minoji
, which linked the Tōkaidō
with the Nakasendō
.
, Suruga Province
military governor Imagawa Ujichika
built Yanagi-no-maru during the Taiei era from 1521-1528 for his son Imagawa Ujitoyo. It was the original castle at Nagoya, located around where the later Ninomaru residence of the castle would be. Oda Nobuhide
seized it from Imagawa Ujitoyo in March 1532 (Kyōroku
5) and moved in and called it Nagoya Castle.
Oda Nobunaga
was supposedly born here 1534 (Tembun 3), although this is subject to debate. After he defeated Oda Nobutomo
at Kiyosu Castle
in April 1555 (Kōji 1), he established his residence there. Around 1582 (Tenshō 4), the castle at Nagoya was abandoned.
After the various upheavals in Japan, Tokugawa Ieyasu
emerged victorious. He decided in November 1609 (Keichō
14) to rebuild the castle at Nagoya. Up until the Meiji Restoration
, Nagoya Castle would flourish as the castle where the Owari branch, the foremost of the three Tokugawa clan
lineages, resided.
The technology of the construction had been extensively developed and consolidated since the construction of Azuchi Castle in 1576 by Oda Nobunaga (1534-1582). One of the main architects who designed and directed the building of the castle was Nakai Masakiyo, who was previously involved in the construction of the Nijo, Fushimi, Edo and Sunpu castles. He had gathered and refined existing castle and fortification construction technology and techniques and ultimately formulated the standards for the Tokugawa Shogunate's castles as exemplified by Nagoya Castle.
In January 1610 (Keicho 15), the construction site was roped off and work began. Tokugawa Ieyasu ordered the various daimyo
to help with the building of a new castle on the site. This new castle was to become the new capital of the existing Owari Province
. Kato Kiyomasa
, Fukushima Masanori
, and Maeda Toshimitsu were some of the 20 feudal lords from the northern and western part of Japan who were appointed to the construction. The inscriptions of feudal lords and their vassals carved on the stones they carried still visible today on the stone walls. In August 1610 the stone foundation of the main donjon (tenshu) was completed, in December the construction of the stone walls for the Honmaru, Ninomaru, Nishinomaru and Ofukemaru was almost completed.
In June 1611 (Keicho 16), the construction of a canal, which today is the Hori River, was completed. The source for many of the building materials for the new castle was from the smaller Kiyosu Castle
, including Kiyosu castle's tenshu, which was rebuilt as the northwest turret. In mid-1612 (Keicho 17), the construction of the Honmaru Palace began and the main donjon was completed in December of that year.
The artist Kano Sadanobu and other painted the walls, ceilings and sliding doors of the Honmaru Palace in 1614 (Keicho 19). Construction of the gates and the Sannomaru moat
were completed in July, and in November of that year the Shogun Tokugawa Hidetada
came for an inspection of the castle. The Honmaru Palace was completed in February 1615 (Keicho 20).
The Ninomaru Palace was completed in 1617 (Genna
3). Toshogu was established in the Sannomaru in 1619 (Genna 6) and the northwest turret, the former Kiyosu Tower, of the Ofukemaru completed. In 1620 (Genna 6), Tokugawa Yoshinao moved into Ninomaru Palace. In 1627 (Kan'ei 4), a sanctuary was constructed in the Ninomaru.
Overall renovation began on the Honmaru Palace in May 1633 (Kan'ei 10) for use a lodging for the upcoming visit of the Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu
on his way to the imperial capital Kyoto. Additional chambers, bathrooms and halls such as Jorakuden and Oyudonoshoin were constructed. Kano Tanyu
and others painted the walls, ceilings and sliding doors in the new extensions in 1634 (Kan'ei 11), and work was completed in June, just in time for the shogun's visit in July of that year.
For the next almost 100 years, most of the work would be maintenance and renovation of the existing structures. In 1669 (Kambun 9), repairs were made to the main donjon walls and roofs. In November 1685 (Jōkyō
2), repairs were made to the main donjon roof, in March 1709 (Hōei
6) to the first and second stories of the main donjon, in August 1720 (Kyōhō
5) to the chidorihafu gables on the third and fourth levels of the main donjon and in December 1726 (Kyoho 11) to the third-level roofs karahafu gables and of the fourth-level roofs and copper tiles of the fifth-level roofs of the main donjon. Repairs were also made to the golden dolphins of the main donjon, replacing the wooden core. Further work was carried out in August 1728 (Kyoho 13) on the shingled roof of the Honmaru Palace, remodeling it into the lightweight, informal roof. Repairs were made to the second, third- and fourth-level roofs of the main donjon.
In November 1730 (Kyoho 15), the golden dolphins were recast for the first time and covered in wire mesh.
In 1752 (Hōreki
2), the large-scale "Restoration of Hōreki" corrected the tilt of the donjon, due to unequal subsidence of its stone wall, and the roofs from the second level up were tiled with copper.
By 1788 (Tenmei
8), the debt of the Owari branch since 1767 (Meiwa
4) reached a value of 215,000 ryo. As a result, the golden dolphins had to be molten and recast with less gold in 1827 (Bunsei
10). A finer wire mesh covered the dolphins to hide the fact that they were less golden. In 1846 (Kōka
3), they were molten again and recast for the third time.
As the Tokugawa Shogunate was coming to an end, law and order started breaking down. The Aomatsuba Incident
took place on January 1868 (Keio 4) in the Ninomaru Palace. A stone memorial was later set up in the 1920's.
After the end of the Shogunate, the Owari branch decided to submit themselves to the emperor. In 1870 (Meiji 3), Tokugawa Yoshikatsu decided to demolish the castle and donated the golden dolphins to the Imperial Household Department. The dolphins were taken down from the main donjon in April 1871 (Meiji 4) and transported by steamship from Atsuta Port to Tokyo. The dolphins would travel around Japan on exhibitions and the female one even to 1873 Vienna World Exposition for the next couple of years, until they were returned to the castle in 1873.
In May 1872 the 3rd Division of the Tokyo Garrison was stationed at the castle and the Nagoya Detached Garrison and barracks were installed on the castle grounds. The plan to demolish the castle were put on hold after the German minister to Japan, Max von Brandt
, spoke out against it. In December 1879 (Meiji 12), the imperial war minister Yamagata Aritomo
decided to put the castle under preservation on the advice of Colonel Nakamura Shigeto.
The Great Nobi Earthquake on October 1891 (Meiji 24) seriously damaged the southwest and Tamon turrets and other structures. Reconstruction and repair work followed. In 1893 (Meiji 26), the castle was transferred to the Imperial Household Ministry and in June the name of the castle was changed to Nagoya Detached Palace or Nagoya Imperial Villa as a formal imperial residence.
On May 20, 1906 (Meiji 39), the ground were specially opened to the public for one day for the National Railroad Five Thousand Miles Celebration. In March 1910 (Meiji 43), bronze dolphins brought from Edo Castle
were added to the roofs of the small donjon and corner turrets. On February 1911 (Meiji 44), the former Hasuike Gate of Edo Castle war transported and reconstructed on the remains of the Nishinomaru-Enoki Gate, which today is used as the main gate for visitors. In 1923 (Taishō
12), the southwest turret was repaired.
On December 11, 1930 (Shōwa
5), the ownership of the castle was transferred from the Imperial Household Ministry to the City of Nagoya, thus abolishing its status as an imperial villa. In the same month, 24 structures on the castle grounds were designated as national treasures, under the old national treasure system. On February 11, 1931 (Shōwa 6), the grounds were opened to the general public. The next decade saw conservatory and archaeological activities, as the castle was scientifically documented. In May 1932 (Shōwa 7), a field survey and measurement of the castle were conducted. In July of that year, the old Kayanoki (Japanese nutmeg) tree in the Nishinomaru was designated as a national monument. In December the castle was designated a historical site. In 1936 (Shōwa 11), the Sarumen Tea House in the Ninomaru was designated as a national treasure. In June 1942 (Shōwa 17), some of the Honmaru Palace paintings were designated as national treasures. Most of the sliding doors and paintings were put into storage as World War II started reaching the Japanese mainland.
During World War II
, the castle was used as the Tokai district army headquarters and the main POW camp in Nagoya, although it held no prisoners and was just the administration office. The aerial bombardments by the United States Air Force
brought the most destruction to the castle in its entire history. On January 1945 (Shōwa 20), the Sarumen Tea House was destroyed in air raids. On May 14, the main donjon, small donjon, golden dolphins, Honmaru Palace, northeast turret and other buildings were completely destroyed in air raids. In June of that year, some of the paintings saved from the Honmaru Palace were moved for safekeeping to the Haiho Shrine, Toyotashi. These returned from the shrine in May 1946 (Shōwa 21).
The castle's surviving former national treasures, which included the southwest, southeast, northwest turrets, the Omoto-Ninomon Gate and some the Honmaru Palace paintings were redesignated as important cultural assets by the national government. In 1953, the southeast turret was dismantled for repairs. The Ninomaru Garden was designated as a place of scenic beauty.
In June 1955 (Shōwa 30), most of the Honmaru Palace paintings, and a exactly year later the ceiling panel paintings were designated as national important culture assets.
In 1957 (Shōwa 32), reconstruction of the castle donjons were started. The second-generation golden dolphins were cast in the Osaka Mint and transported to the castle. On October 3, 1959 was the reconstruction of the two donjons completed and opened to the public. The next couple of decades saw further renovation work. In March 1964 (Shōwa 39), the northwest turret was dismantled for repairs. In 1967 (Shōwa 42), the Ninomon of the western iron gate was dismantled for repairs. In 1972 (Shōwa 47), the stone walls at the west side of the East Iron Gate of the Ninomaru were dismantled. The wooden Ninomon was dismantled and later rebuilt at the east Ninomon Gate of the Honmaru.
In preparation for the Expo 2005
, plaques using the English language were added to most displays for the castle and a 3-D movie showing the paintings in was created for the anticipated large number of visitors to view. Reconstruction work of the destroyed Honmaru Palace begann in 2009 and is slated for completion by 2017.
s, which are divided by the outer moat (Soto-bori) and inner moat (Uchi-bori). Each enceinte is protected by walls and turrets that were strategically located at each corner. Access from one enceinte to the next was controlled by guarded gates that were accessible by bridges. The castle is a good example of the type built on flat lands.
Seen from above, the Honmaru enceinte is in the centre of the complex, containing the main and minor donjon, along with the palace. The Ninomaru enceinte is located to the east, the Nishinomaru to the west, the Ofukemaru, also known as the Fukaimaru, to the northwest, and the Sannomaru around the east and south. Today's Meijō Park
was part of the larger castle's grounds to the north, which were used as pleasure gardens with a large pond.
The larger Sannomaru used to be buffered by two moats and encircled the inner castle enceintes from the east and the south. Various temples and villas, as well as administrative buildings used to be located in its area. On the eastern side, the large stone foundations of the Sannomaru East Gate are still visible. None of the original wooden structures of the Sannomaru have survived, but the area is still the administrative center of the city of Nagoya and the surrounding Aichi Prefecture, with Nagoya City Hall
, the Aichi Prefectural Government Office
and other administrative buildings and offices being located in this area. Roads and areas such as Sotobori-dori (Outer Moat Road) and Marunouchi have their origins from the castle.
) is located close to the Nishinomaru-enokida Gate to the north. Its height is 16 metres and eight metres at the base. It is over 600 years old and was already there when the castle was constructed. This is the only government-designated natural monument in Nagoya. Damaged by the air raids of 1945
, the tree fortunately regained its viability. Tokugawa Yoshinao, the first lord of the castle, is said to have decorated his dinner tray with torreya nuts from this tree before going into battle in Osaka
, and later for New Year's celebrations.
traffic.
This tower and the stone wall were destroyed during the great Nobi Earthquake in 1891 and later rebuilt in 1923 under orders of the Imperial Household Ministry. It is designated an Important Cultural Asset.
, a renowned general and castle engineer at the time, hauled a large stone to the castle that was later named after him. But it is probable that this part of the castle's foundation was constructed by Kuroda Nagamasa. Feudal lords who were ordered to build the stone walls carved their marks on the stones in order to distinguish their own from stones of other lords.
Various types of weapons were also stored on the first level of the castle's main donjon. Later, to prevent disasters due to accidents, flammable materials such as gunpowder
were moved and kept in facilities outside the castle.
The small and main donjon both burned down during World War II and were reconstructed in 1959.
The job of constructing the castle walls was divided among twenty feudal lords, including Kiyomasa Kato. The walls of the donjon were built by the Kiyomasa family and the cornerstones of the building bear the inscriptions of the family members in charge of the construction. Those of Kato and retainers can be seen on the northeast corner. In the stone walls of the castle, there are marks of figures of triangles in circles, and the rough outlines of folding fans, war fans, and other objects. These are called kokumon or carved crests, and represent the different daimyo lords and their vassals who were apportioned sections in the construction. The signs were carved into the stone so that there would be no mistake as to which lord contributed which stone in the transportation, and to avoid disputes. Some of the foundation stones of the main castle tower were moved to a lawn on the north side during the 1959 reconstruction, due to damage from the immense heat of the fire and subsequent collapse of the tower.
The stone wall supporting the donjon was constructed by the technique called ogi kobai or "fan sloping", by which the upper part of the wall is curved outward like a fan. This wall is also called the Kiyomasa-style Crescent Stone Wall, after the general and engineer Kiyomasa Kato, who was in charge of its construction. The fan sloping technique was used to prevent swelling by curving the middle portion of the wall inward, thereby evenly balancing the stone weight against the pressure of sand and earth within.
There is a roofless corridor between the main and the small donjon. The walls in this corridor were earthen and stone, and mounted on the outer part of the west side are numerous 30 centimetre-long spearheads. These spearheads would thwart enemy climbers from coming over the eaves. This sword-fence can also be found at the Fumei Gate, facing the east side of the main donjon.
(金鯱). This motif was used as a talisman
to prevent fires. They first appeared in the Muromachi era (1334-1400) as a symbol of the lord's authority.
The original golden dolphins were formed over a roughly carved block of wood over which lead sheets were applied. Copper was placed over the lead, before the application of the final layer of gold which was produced from pounding gold coins into thin sheets. It is said that the gold used amounted to a value of 17,975 ryo (taels), when converted from Keicho-period coins. The core of the golden dolphins are composed of hinoki cypress
, originally the foundation was sawara cypress.
The golden dolphins were melted down and recast three times during the Edo period, when the Owari branch suffered severe economic hardship. When the dolphins were recast in Bunsei 10 (1827), the purity of the gold was greatly decreased. In order to conceal the diminished luster, openings in the mesh in the protective bird screens built around the dolphins were made smaller during the Kyoho period (1715-1735).
After the Meiji Restoration, there was a trend to abandon old ways and plans were made to dismantle the castle donjons. During this time, the golden dolphins were donated by the Owari branch to the imperial government. In Meiji 4 (1871), they were removed from the main donjon and transported to Tokyo from Atsuta Port. When a scaffold was erected, a sentry from the army division stationed at the castle stole some scales.
In March 1872 (Meiji 5), the male dolphin was exhibited at Japan's first exposition in Yushima. Later, the male was displayed at regional expositions held in Ishikawa, Oita, Ehime and Nagoya. The female dolphin was even exhibited at the World Exposition in Vienna in 1873
. Later, when it was decided to preserve the donjon, a movement to return the dolphins was initiated. In Meiji 11 (1878), the golden dolphins were returned to Nagoya and restored to their original position in February of the following year.
Later in Meiji 9 (1937), during an inspection by the Castle Imperial Grant Commemorative Committee, a thief climbed the scaffold and stole scales. He was later caught in Osaka. Responsibility for this incident was traced back to city executives. Since the Meiji era, the golden dolphins have suffered theft on these three instances.
The dolphins were destroyed by fire during World War II. The second-generation golden dolphins were cast in the Osaka Mint and transported to the castle in March 1959 (Showa 39). Both kinshachi were lowered temporarily from atop the castle and displayed on the castle grounds briefly in September 1984 (Showa 59) for the Nagoya Castle Exhibition, and again from March 19 to June 19, 2005 (Heisei 17) at the site of the Expo 2005
. They were restored to the top beam of the castle roof on July 9, 2005 of the same year.
The kinshachi are male and female, with different specifications. The northern kinshachi is male, has a height of 2.621 Metres, weighs 1,272 kg, its number of scales is 112 and the weight of the gold (18 K) is 44.69 kg. The southern kinshachi is female, has a height of 2.579 metres, weighs 1,215 kg, its number of scales is 126 and the weight of its gold is 43.39 kg. For both dolphins, the gold plate quality is 18K and 0.15 mm thick.
, the first feudal lord of Owari, moved to this palace from Honmaru Palace in 1620. Besides serving as the residence of the lord, the palace functioned as the administrative center of the feudal government. Many more palaces were built in later years.
The Tokugawa Museum has a partial reconstruction of the reception chambers, such as the Kusari-no-ma and the Hiro-ma, which include display alcoves, staggered shelves and writing alcoves equipped with authentic furnishings.
The palace had two stages for performances of Noh
: the omote-butai, or front stage, and oku-butai, the rear stage. Noh was performed to commemorate a lord's succession to a fiefdom and to celebrate the birth of an heir. The Tokugawas of Owari were patrons of many Noh actors. The modern Nagoya Noh Theatre
was opened in April 1997 and is situated just south of the front gate of Nagoya Castle. A reconstruction of one of the Noh stages of the Ninomaru can be seen in the Tokugawa Art Museum. The tradition of courtly Noh is upheld in the Nagoya Noh Theatre, located in the Sannomaru enceinte.
The Ninonomaru last existed in the Kaei
period (1848-54). Facilities for conducting clan affairs, residences for retainers, gardens and stables (Mukaiyashiki) were located there. The western two-thirds of the area was known as the Oshiro (the castle), while the eastern one-third was called Ninomaru Goten (the palace). The gardens originally included flowering trees, stone lanterns
and a traditional Japanese-style tea arbour arranged in a circular pattern. After the Meiji Restoration
, the original was demolished to build army barracks, but it was restored and designated as an official scenic spot after the war.
Three chief retainers of the Owari branch were executed in the Ninomaru Palace in 1868 what became known as the Aomatsuba Incident
. Early in the Showa era, around 1926, a monument was erected at the execution site. The exact site is unknown although it is thought to have taken place approximately 100 metres south of the current site of the monument. The stone stelae was re-erected after the original one disappeared.
. In 1972, the gate was relocated to the side of the old Honmaru East Gate, where it stands today. The gate, built in the style of gates in ancient Korea, with a tile-covered slanting roof and plastered eaves, has iron-banded pillars, a crosspiece and doors.
that ran beneath the castle walls. This tunnel was the secret escape route to the be used by the lord of the castle during times of emergency. The remains of the entrance can be found in the northwest part of the Ninomaru Garden. Steep stairs led down to the moat. The lord could cross the moat by boat to reach the Ofukemaru Garden on the opposite side. He could use a secret escape route to get to the Kiso Road by way of Doishita, Kachigawa and Jokoji Temple.
in 1716, designed to be walked through. The garden has been remodeled many times since then, especially between 1818 to 1829/1830. Although the area of the garden is small, it was designed to represent steep hills, forests, and deep valleys. There were also many large rocks placed within its boundaries. On top of the hill the thickly growing trees offered the lord protection from enemies by providing a hiding place and a secret escape route. These characteristics of the garden have faded over the years, but the basic structure of the original plan still remains. The garden has been expanded and undergone restorations during the years.
This dry landscape garden covers an area of 5137 square metres (55,294.2 sq ft) and is separated into north and south areas. Comparatively, the north half of the garden retains more of the shape of the original garden. The pond is surrounded by five artificial mountains and has several islands. There are various kinds of walkways around the garden, including a stone bridge, mountain pathway, and shoreline path. The pond represents a ravine made up with many round rocks.
The garden has many high quality rocks from various regions throughout Japan and some of them, including the pines, can be used for medicinal uses. Located in the garden is a modern teahouse, constructed out of hinoki cypress
from the Kiso region. A tatami
mat room and a washing room are located in it.
During the early years of the Meiji era, an army barracks was set up in the eastern garden. Mt. Gongen was leveled and the pond filled in to make room for the military barracks. In 1975, part of the garden was excavated, using the old drawing as a guide. The garden was renovated mainly around four unearthed structures: the North and South Ponds, the site of the Soketsu-tei teahouse and the so-called North Culvert. The garden was opened to the public in April 1978 and named the Ninomaru East Garden. Rebuilt, the four form the main features of the 14000 square metres (150,694.7 sq ft) garden. Also nearby are gardens of peonies and other flowers.
used to be located in the old Ninomaru Garden, including Tashun-en, Yamashita Oseki, Yoho-tei and Fushin-tei. A reconstruction of the thatched Sarumen tea house is located in the Tokugawa Museum. The Soketsu-tei, the largest one of them, was built in the Sukiya style. In an excavation survey, a site almost exactly matching that of the Soketsu-tei as depicted in Oniwa Ezu, the historic plan of the old castle garden, was identified. Today, cobble stones are placed to mark where tatami mats would have been, rubble and plaster where the hallway was, and gravel on the other surfaces for an easy understanding of the original structure.
Necessary arms and ammunition, etc. outside that which the retainers had in their own possession, were originally stored in the facilities called Ozutsu-gure, Tezutsu-gura, Migaki-gura and Ana-gura, as well as Shio-gura (salt storehouse) in the eastern corner. The warehouses have almost all disappeared over time, some teahouses are now there instead.
This warehouse is a one-story brick building with white plastered walls, small windows on the side and a Japanese-styled tiled roof. Its total size is 89.25 square metres, 12.28 metres from east to west, 8.6 metres from north to south, and 7.68 metres in height. The size of the ancillary gunpowder depot is 13.12 square metres. The building is characterised by the arched entrance and the underfloor area, as well as the white-coloured masonry plaster at the corners of the building. The doors are covered with copper sheets, as well as the four small windows on the sides.
Although the castle itself was destroyed during World War II
, the screen and ceiling paintings of the Honmaru Palace were left undamaged because they were being stored in this warehouse.
constructing this tower, it is therefore also called the Kiyosu turret. It is designated an Important Cultural Asset
.
Projections on the first-storey outer walls facing north and west are trapdoor
s from which stones could be dropped on attacking forces. They are disguised with gabled roofs. Unlike other corner turrets that still exist, the northwest turret has gables on the east and south facing inside, projecting an image of balance and stability.
's neck because it is long and thin. This was done to increase the defendability of the castle. Five of these cormorant-neck shaped moats still exist throughout the castle area.
. In Spring, Japanese Cherry, wisteria
, camellia
and peony
bloom. In the summer it is iris
, crape myrtle, plantain lily and hydrangea
, in autumn the confederate rose, Japanese quince and crape myrtle, and in winter the Japanese witch hazel, Japanese quince, wintersweet and Japanese plum
that bloom. During the summer, Sika Deer
can also be observed grazing in the moats that are dry and covered with grass. Various birds such as ducks and songbird
s also inhabit the castle grounds as their sanctuary in the middle of the city.
and Meijo University
.
Nagoya castle has been featured in many films such as Mothra vs. Godzilla
and Gamera vs. Gyaos
.
Japanese castle
' were fortresses composed primarily of wood and stone. They evolved from the wooden stockades of earlier centuries, and came into their best-known form in the 16th century...
located in Nagoya, central Japan
Japan
Japan is an island nation in East Asia. Located in the Pacific Ocean, it lies to the east of the Sea of Japan, China, North Korea, South Korea and Russia, stretching from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north to the East China Sea and Taiwan in the south...
. During the Edo period
Edo period
The , or , is a division of Japanese history which was ruled by the shoguns of the Tokugawa family, running from 1603 to 1868. The political entity of this period was the Tokugawa shogunate....
, Nagoya Castle was the center of one of the most important castle town
Castle town
A castle town is a settlement built adjacent to or surrounding a castle. Castle towns are common in Medieval Europe. Good example include small towns like Alnwick and Arundel, which are still dominated by their castles...
s in Japan—Nagoya-juku
Nagoya-juku
was the second of the nine post stations of the Minoji. It is located in the Naka-ku section of the city of Nagoya, in Aichi Prefecture, Japan.-History:...
— and it included the most important stops along the Minoji
Minoji
The was a highway in Japan during the Edo period. It was a secondary route, ranked below the Edo Five Routes in importance, and connected Miya-juku on the Tōkaidō with Tarui-juku on the Nakasendō....
, which linked the Tōkaidō
Tokaido (road)
The ' was the most important of the Five Routes of the Edo period, connecting Edo to Kyoto in Japan. Unlike the inland and less heavily travelled Nakasendō, the Tōkaidō travelled along the sea coast of eastern Honshū, hence the route's name....
with the Nakasendō
Nakasendo
The , also called the , was one of the five routes of the Edo period, and one of the two that connected Edo to Kyoto in Japan. There were 69 stations between Edo and Kyoto, crossing through Musashi, Kōzuke, Shinano, Mino and Ōmi provinces...
.
History
In order to advance into OwariOwari Province
was an old province of Japan that is now the western half of present day Aichi Prefecture, including much of modern Nagoya. Its abbreviation is Bishū .-History:The province was created in 646....
, Suruga Province
Suruga Province
was an old province in the area that is today the central part of Shizuoka prefecture. It was sometimes called . Suruga bordered on Izu, Kai, Sagami, Shinano, and Tōtōmi provinces; and had access to the Pacific Ocean through Suruga Bay.-History:...
military governor Imagawa Ujichika
Imagawa Ujichika
was a Japanese daimyo of the Sengoku period. He was the 10th head of the Imagawa clan of Suruga Province.- Biography :Ujichika was the son of Imagawa Yoshitada. In 1476 Yoshitada invaded Tôtômi Province and defeated the Katsumada and Yokota clans...
built Yanagi-no-maru during the Taiei era from 1521-1528 for his son Imagawa Ujitoyo. It was the original castle at Nagoya, located around where the later Ninomaru residence of the castle would be. Oda Nobuhide
Oda Nobuhide
was a warlord and magistrate of lower Owari Province during the Sengoku period of Japan. His father was Oda Nobusada and Nobuhide was the father of Oda Nobunaga.-Ruling the clan:...
seized it from Imagawa Ujitoyo in March 1532 (Kyōroku
Kyoroku
was a after Daiei and before Tenbun. This period spanned the years from August 1528 to July 1532. The reigning emperor was .-Change of era:* 1528 : The era name was changed to mark the enthronement of Emperor Go-Nara...
5) and moved in and called it Nagoya Castle.
Oda Nobunaga
Oda Nobunaga
was the initiator of the unification of Japan under the shogunate in the late 16th century, which ruled Japan until the Meiji Restoration in 1868. He was also a major daimyo during the Sengoku period of Japanese history. His opus was continued, completed and finalized by his successors Toyotomi...
was supposedly born here 1534 (Tembun 3), although this is subject to debate. After he defeated Oda Nobutomo
Oda Nobutomo
was a Japanese warlord during the Sengoku period. He was head of the Iwakura Oda faction of the Oda clan, and ruled the four southern districts of Owari Province as shugodai...
at Kiyosu Castle
Kiyosu Castle
is a castle that acted as a base of operations for Oda Nobunaga during the latter half of the Sengoku period of feudal Japan. It is located in the city of Kiyosu, Aichi Prefecture, Japan....
in April 1555 (Kōji 1), he established his residence there. Around 1582 (Tenshō 4), the castle at Nagoya was abandoned.
After the various upheavals in Japan, Tokugawa Ieyasu
Tokugawa Ieyasu
was the founder and first shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate of Japan , which ruled from the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600 until the Meiji Restoration in 1868. Ieyasu seized power in 1600, received appointment as shogun in 1603, abdicated from office in 1605, but...
emerged victorious. He decided in November 1609 (Keichō
Keicho
was a after Bunroku and before Genna. This period spanned from October 1596 to July 1615. The reigning emperors were and .-Change of era:* 1596 : The era name was changed to Keichō to mark the passing of various natural disasters...
14) to rebuild the castle at Nagoya. Up until the Meiji Restoration
Meiji Restoration
The , also known as the Meiji Ishin, Revolution, Reform or Renewal, was a chain of events that restored imperial rule to Japan in 1868...
, Nagoya Castle would flourish as the castle where the Owari branch, the foremost of the three Tokugawa clan
Tokugawa clan
The was a powerful daimyo family of Japan. They nominally descended from Emperor Seiwa and were a branch of the Minamoto clan by the Nitta clan. However, the early history of this clan remains a mystery.-History:...
lineages, resided.
The technology of the construction had been extensively developed and consolidated since the construction of Azuchi Castle in 1576 by Oda Nobunaga (1534-1582). One of the main architects who designed and directed the building of the castle was Nakai Masakiyo, who was previously involved in the construction of the Nijo, Fushimi, Edo and Sunpu castles. He had gathered and refined existing castle and fortification construction technology and techniques and ultimately formulated the standards for the Tokugawa Shogunate's castles as exemplified by Nagoya Castle.
In January 1610 (Keicho 15), the construction site was roped off and work began. Tokugawa Ieyasu ordered the various daimyo
Daimyo
is a generic term referring to the powerful territorial lords in pre-modern Japan who ruled most of the country from their vast, hereditary land holdings...
to help with the building of a new castle on the site. This new castle was to become the new capital of the existing Owari Province
Owari Province
was an old province of Japan that is now the western half of present day Aichi Prefecture, including much of modern Nagoya. Its abbreviation is Bishū .-History:The province was created in 646....
. Kato Kiyomasa
Kato Kiyomasa
was a Japanese daimyō of the Azuchi-Momoyama and Edo period.-Origins and early career:Kiyomasa was born in Owari Province to Katō Kiyotada. Kiyotada's wife, Ito, was a cousin of Toyotomi Hideyoshi's mother. Kiyotada died while his son was still young...
, Fukushima Masanori
Fukushima Masanori
was a Japanese daimyo of the late Sengoku Period to early Edo Period who served as lord of the Hiroshima Domain. A retainer of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, he fought in the battle of Shizugatake in 1583, and soon became known as one of Seven Spears of Shizugatake which also included Katō Kiyomasa and...
, and Maeda Toshimitsu were some of the 20 feudal lords from the northern and western part of Japan who were appointed to the construction. The inscriptions of feudal lords and their vassals carved on the stones they carried still visible today on the stone walls. In August 1610 the stone foundation of the main donjon (tenshu) was completed, in December the construction of the stone walls for the Honmaru, Ninomaru, Nishinomaru and Ofukemaru was almost completed.
In June 1611 (Keicho 16), the construction of a canal, which today is the Hori River, was completed. The source for many of the building materials for the new castle was from the smaller Kiyosu Castle
Kiyosu Castle
is a castle that acted as a base of operations for Oda Nobunaga during the latter half of the Sengoku period of feudal Japan. It is located in the city of Kiyosu, Aichi Prefecture, Japan....
, including Kiyosu castle's tenshu, which was rebuilt as the northwest turret. In mid-1612 (Keicho 17), the construction of the Honmaru Palace began and the main donjon was completed in December of that year.
The artist Kano Sadanobu and other painted the walls, ceilings and sliding doors of the Honmaru Palace in 1614 (Keicho 19). Construction of the gates and the Sannomaru moat
Moat
A moat is a deep, broad ditch, either dry or filled with water, that surrounds a castle, other building or town, historically to provide it with a preliminary line of defence. In some places moats evolved into more extensive water defences, including natural or artificial lakes, dams and sluices...
were completed in July, and in November of that year the Shogun Tokugawa Hidetada
Tokugawa Hidetada
was the second shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty, who ruled from 1605 until his abdication in 1623. He was the third son of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate.-Early life :...
came for an inspection of the castle. The Honmaru Palace was completed in February 1615 (Keicho 20).
The Ninomaru Palace was completed in 1617 (Genna
Genna
was a coming after Keichō and before Kan'ei. This period spanned the years from July 1615 to February 1624. The reigning emperor was .-Change of era:...
3). Toshogu was established in the Sannomaru in 1619 (Genna 6) and the northwest turret, the former Kiyosu Tower, of the Ofukemaru completed. In 1620 (Genna 6), Tokugawa Yoshinao moved into Ninomaru Palace. In 1627 (Kan'ei 4), a sanctuary was constructed in the Ninomaru.
Overall renovation began on the Honmaru Palace in May 1633 (Kan'ei 10) for use a lodging for the upcoming visit of the Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu
Tokugawa Iemitsu
Tokugawa Iemitsu was the third shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty. He was the eldest son of Tokugawa Hidetada, and the grandson of Tokugawa Ieyasu. Iemitsu ruled from 1623 to 1651.-Early life :...
on his way to the imperial capital Kyoto. Additional chambers, bathrooms and halls such as Jorakuden and Oyudonoshoin were constructed. Kano Tanyu
Kano Tanyu
was one of the foremost Japanese painters of the Kanō school. His original given name was Morinobu; he was the eldest son of Kanō Takanobu and grandson of Kanō Eitoku. Many of the most famous and widely known Kanō works today are by Tan'yū....
and others painted the walls, ceilings and sliding doors in the new extensions in 1634 (Kan'ei 11), and work was completed in June, just in time for the shogun's visit in July of that year.
For the next almost 100 years, most of the work would be maintenance and renovation of the existing structures. In 1669 (Kambun 9), repairs were made to the main donjon walls and roofs. In November 1685 (Jōkyō
Jokyo
was a after Tenna and before Genroku. This period spanned the years from February 1684 through September 1688. The reigning emperors were and .-Change of era:...
2), repairs were made to the main donjon roof, in March 1709 (Hōei
Hoei
was a after Genroku and before Shōtoku. This period spanned the years from March 1704 through April 1711. The reigning emperors were and .-Change of era:...
6) to the first and second stories of the main donjon, in August 1720 (Kyōhō
Kyoho
was a after Shōtoku and before Gembun. This period spanned the years from July 1716 through April 1736. The reigning emperors were and .-Change of era:...
5) to the chidorihafu gables on the third and fourth levels of the main donjon and in December 1726 (Kyoho 11) to the third-level roofs karahafu gables and of the fourth-level roofs and copper tiles of the fifth-level roofs of the main donjon. Repairs were also made to the golden dolphins of the main donjon, replacing the wooden core. Further work was carried out in August 1728 (Kyoho 13) on the shingled roof of the Honmaru Palace, remodeling it into the lightweight, informal roof. Repairs were made to the second, third- and fourth-level roofs of the main donjon.
In November 1730 (Kyoho 15), the golden dolphins were recast for the first time and covered in wire mesh.
In 1752 (Hōreki
Horeki
was a after Kan'en and before Meiwa. The period spanned the years from October 1751 through June 1764. The reigning emperor and emperess were and .-Change of era:...
2), the large-scale "Restoration of Hōreki" corrected the tilt of the donjon, due to unequal subsidence of its stone wall, and the roofs from the second level up were tiled with copper.
By 1788 (Tenmei
Tenmei
was a Japanese era name , also known as Temmei, after An'ei and before Kansei. This period spanned the years from April 1781 through January 1789. The reigning emperor was .-Change of era:...
8), the debt of the Owari branch since 1767 (Meiwa
Meiwa
was a after Hōreki and before An'ei. This period spanned the years from June 1764 through November 1772. The reigning empress and emperor were and .-Change of era:...
4) reached a value of 215,000 ryo. As a result, the golden dolphins had to be molten and recast with less gold in 1827 (Bunsei
Bunsei
was a after Bunka and before Tenpō. This period spanned the years from April 1818 through December 1830. The reigning emperor was .-Change of era:...
10). A finer wire mesh covered the dolphins to hide the fact that they were less golden. In 1846 (Kōka
Koka
was a after Tenpō and before Kaei. This period spanned the years from December 1844 through February 1848. The reigning emperors were and .-Change of era:...
3), they were molten again and recast for the third time.
As the Tokugawa Shogunate was coming to an end, law and order started breaking down. The Aomatsuba Incident
Aomatsuba Incident
The Aomatsuba Incident took place in 1868 in Nagoya Castle.- History :Three chief retainers of the Owari branch of the ruling Tokugawa clan were executed in the Ninomaru Palace of Nagoya Castle. Early in the Showa era, around 1926, a monument was erected at the execution site...
took place on January 1868 (Keio 4) in the Ninomaru Palace. A stone memorial was later set up in the 1920's.
After the end of the Shogunate, the Owari branch decided to submit themselves to the emperor. In 1870 (Meiji 3), Tokugawa Yoshikatsu decided to demolish the castle and donated the golden dolphins to the Imperial Household Department. The dolphins were taken down from the main donjon in April 1871 (Meiji 4) and transported by steamship from Atsuta Port to Tokyo. The dolphins would travel around Japan on exhibitions and the female one even to 1873 Vienna World Exposition for the next couple of years, until they were returned to the castle in 1873.
In May 1872 the 3rd Division of the Tokyo Garrison was stationed at the castle and the Nagoya Detached Garrison and barracks were installed on the castle grounds. The plan to demolish the castle were put on hold after the German minister to Japan, Max von Brandt
Max von Brandt
Maximilian August Scipio von Brandt was a German diplomat, East Asia expert and publicist.- Biography :...
, spoke out against it. In December 1879 (Meiji 12), the imperial war minister Yamagata Aritomo
Yamagata Aritomo
Field Marshal Prince , also known as Yamagata Kyōsuke, was a field marshal in the Imperial Japanese Army and twice Prime Minister of Japan. He is considered one of the architects of the military and political foundations of early modern Japan. Yamagata Aritomo can be seen as the father of Japanese...
decided to put the castle under preservation on the advice of Colonel Nakamura Shigeto.
The Great Nobi Earthquake on October 1891 (Meiji 24) seriously damaged the southwest and Tamon turrets and other structures. Reconstruction and repair work followed. In 1893 (Meiji 26), the castle was transferred to the Imperial Household Ministry and in June the name of the castle was changed to Nagoya Detached Palace or Nagoya Imperial Villa as a formal imperial residence.
On May 20, 1906 (Meiji 39), the ground were specially opened to the public for one day for the National Railroad Five Thousand Miles Celebration. In March 1910 (Meiji 43), bronze dolphins brought from Edo Castle
Edo Castle
, also known as , is a flatland castle that was built in 1457 by Ōta Dōkan. It is located in Chiyoda in Tokyo, then known as Edo, Toshima District, Musashi Province. Tokugawa Ieyasu established the Tokugawa shogunate here. It was the residence of the shogun and location of the shogunate, and also...
were added to the roofs of the small donjon and corner turrets. On February 1911 (Meiji 44), the former Hasuike Gate of Edo Castle war transported and reconstructed on the remains of the Nishinomaru-Enoki Gate, which today is used as the main gate for visitors. In 1923 (Taishō
Taisho period
The , or Taishō era, is a period in the history of Japan dating from July 30, 1912 to December 25, 1926, coinciding with the reign of the Taishō Emperor. The health of the new emperor was weak, which prompted the shift in political power from the old oligarchic group of elder statesmen to the Diet...
12), the southwest turret was repaired.
On December 11, 1930 (Shōwa
Showa period
The , or Shōwa era, is the period of Japanese history corresponding to the reign of the Shōwa Emperor, Hirohito, from December 25, 1926 through January 7, 1989.The Shōwa period was longer than the reign of any previous Japanese emperor...
5), the ownership of the castle was transferred from the Imperial Household Ministry to the City of Nagoya, thus abolishing its status as an imperial villa. In the same month, 24 structures on the castle grounds were designated as national treasures, under the old national treasure system. On February 11, 1931 (Shōwa 6), the grounds were opened to the general public. The next decade saw conservatory and archaeological activities, as the castle was scientifically documented. In May 1932 (Shōwa 7), a field survey and measurement of the castle were conducted. In July of that year, the old Kayanoki (Japanese nutmeg) tree in the Nishinomaru was designated as a national monument. In December the castle was designated a historical site. In 1936 (Shōwa 11), the Sarumen Tea House in the Ninomaru was designated as a national treasure. In June 1942 (Shōwa 17), some of the Honmaru Palace paintings were designated as national treasures. Most of the sliding doors and paintings were put into storage as World War II started reaching the Japanese mainland.
During World War II
World War II
World War II, or the Second World War , was a global conflict lasting from 1939 to 1945, involving most of the world's nations—including all of the great powers—eventually forming two opposing military alliances: the Allies and the Axis...
, the castle was used as the Tokai district army headquarters and the main POW camp in Nagoya, although it held no prisoners and was just the administration office. The aerial bombardments by the United States Air Force
United States Air Force
The United States Air Force is the aerial warfare service branch of the United States Armed Forces and one of the American uniformed services. Initially part of the United States Army, the USAF was formed as a separate branch of the military on September 18, 1947 under the National Security Act of...
brought the most destruction to the castle in its entire history. On January 1945 (Shōwa 20), the Sarumen Tea House was destroyed in air raids. On May 14, the main donjon, small donjon, golden dolphins, Honmaru Palace, northeast turret and other buildings were completely destroyed in air raids. In June of that year, some of the paintings saved from the Honmaru Palace were moved for safekeeping to the Haiho Shrine, Toyotashi. These returned from the shrine in May 1946 (Shōwa 21).
The castle's surviving former national treasures, which included the southwest, southeast, northwest turrets, the Omoto-Ninomon Gate and some the Honmaru Palace paintings were redesignated as important cultural assets by the national government. In 1953, the southeast turret was dismantled for repairs. The Ninomaru Garden was designated as a place of scenic beauty.
In June 1955 (Shōwa 30), most of the Honmaru Palace paintings, and a exactly year later the ceiling panel paintings were designated as national important culture assets.
In 1957 (Shōwa 32), reconstruction of the castle donjons were started. The second-generation golden dolphins were cast in the Osaka Mint and transported to the castle. On October 3, 1959 was the reconstruction of the two donjons completed and opened to the public. The next couple of decades saw further renovation work. In March 1964 (Shōwa 39), the northwest turret was dismantled for repairs. In 1967 (Shōwa 42), the Ninomon of the western iron gate was dismantled for repairs. In 1972 (Shōwa 47), the stone walls at the west side of the East Iron Gate of the Ninomaru were dismantled. The wooden Ninomon was dismantled and later rebuilt at the east Ninomon Gate of the Honmaru.
In preparation for the Expo 2005
Expo 2005
Expo 2005 was the World's Fair held for 185 days between Friday, March 25 and Sunday, September 25, 2005, in Aichi Prefecture, Japan, east of the city of Nagoya. It was a Specialized International Exhibition under the scheme of the 1972 protocol of the Convention relating to International Exhibitions...
, plaques using the English language were added to most displays for the castle and a 3-D movie showing the paintings in was created for the anticipated large number of visitors to view. Reconstruction work of the destroyed Honmaru Palace begann in 2009 and is slated for completion by 2017.
Layout
The castle complex is made up of several enceinteEnceinte
Enceinte , is a French term used technically in fortification for the inner ring of fortifications surrounding a town or a concentric castle....
s, which are divided by the outer moat (Soto-bori) and inner moat (Uchi-bori). Each enceinte is protected by walls and turrets that were strategically located at each corner. Access from one enceinte to the next was controlled by guarded gates that were accessible by bridges. The castle is a good example of the type built on flat lands.
Seen from above, the Honmaru enceinte is in the centre of the complex, containing the main and minor donjon, along with the palace. The Ninomaru enceinte is located to the east, the Nishinomaru to the west, the Ofukemaru, also known as the Fukaimaru, to the northwest, and the Sannomaru around the east and south. Today's Meijō Park
Meijō Park
is a public park surrounding Nagoya Castle in Kita-ku, Nagoya, Japan-Facilities:The name Meijō derives itself from the abbreviated kanji form of...
was part of the larger castle's grounds to the north, which were used as pleasure gardens with a large pond.
The larger Sannomaru used to be buffered by two moats and encircled the inner castle enceintes from the east and the south. Various temples and villas, as well as administrative buildings used to be located in its area. On the eastern side, the large stone foundations of the Sannomaru East Gate are still visible. None of the original wooden structures of the Sannomaru have survived, but the area is still the administrative center of the city of Nagoya and the surrounding Aichi Prefecture, with Nagoya City Hall
Nagoya City Hall
is the city hall of the city of Nagoya, Japan.It is constructed in a fusion Japanese and modern style. It survived the bombings of World War II. It is registered as a Tangible Cultural Property of Japan....
, the Aichi Prefectural Government Office
Aichi Prefectural Government Office
The Aichi Prefectural Government Office is the main building of the government of Aichi Prefecture. It is located in the city of Nagoya....
and other administrative buildings and offices being located in this area. Roads and areas such as Sotobori-dori (Outer Moat Road) and Marunouchi have their origins from the castle.
Nishinomaru-enokida Gate
This gate was originally called the Nishinomaru-enokida Gate and is used today as the main gate to Nagoya Castle. It was destroyed by fire during World War II. The gate was reconstructed together with the donjon in 1959.Torreya Nut Tree
An old Torreya Nut Tree (Torreya nuciferaTorreya nucifera
Torreya nucifera is a slow-growing, coniferous tree native to southern Japan and to South Korea's Jeju Island. It is also called ' or Japanese nutmeg-yew.-Description:It grows to 15-25 m tall with a trunk up to 1.5 m diameter...
) is located close to the Nishinomaru-enokida Gate to the north. Its height is 16 metres and eight metres at the base. It is over 600 years old and was already there when the castle was constructed. This is the only government-designated natural monument in Nagoya. Damaged by the air raids of 1945
Air raids on Japan
During World War II the Allied forces conducted many air raids on Japan which caused extensive destruction to the country's cities and killed over 300,000 people. These attacks began with the Doolittle Raid in mid-April 1942, but did not resume until June 1944 when United States Army Air Forces ...
, the tree fortunately regained its viability. Tokugawa Yoshinao, the first lord of the castle, is said to have decorated his dinner tray with torreya nuts from this tree before going into battle in Osaka
Osaka
is a city in the Kansai region of Japan's main island of Honshu, a designated city under the Local Autonomy Law, the capital city of Osaka Prefecture and also the biggest part of Keihanshin area, which is represented by three major cities of Japan, Kyoto, Osaka and Kobe...
, and later for New Year's celebrations.
First Front Gate
Destroyed in World War II, the First Front Gate formed a square shape with the Second Front Gate, and had a smaller gate on the side with a gabled and tiled roof. The wall section under the front part of the gate was covered in wooden tiles, and the gate itself was iron plated and rocks could be dropped from a second-storey machination. The door on the smaller gate was latticed for reinforcement.Ote Umadashi
The Ote Umadashi was once a small defensive wall in front of the Second Front Gate. This wall was located on the front side of the castle wall. A moat once served for protection between this point and the Nishinomaru, but it was filled in when the area was turned into an imperial detached palace from 1893 to 1930, because it disrupted the flow of carriageCarriage
A carriage is a wheeled vehicle for people, usually horse-drawn; litters and sedan chairs are excluded, since they are wheelless vehicles. The carriage is especially designed for private passenger use and for comfort or elegance, though some are also used to transport goods. It may be light,...
traffic.
Southwest Turret
The southwest turret is also called the Hitsuji-saru (sheep-monkey) turret, because these two animals denoted the southwest compass direction in the Chinese zodiac. It is three stories tall with a two-level roof. On the west and south sides, trap doors project below the lower-level roof, which were designed for dropping stones on attacker to defend the castle. The symbol of the chrysanthemum, the Imperial Crest, can be seen on the ridge-end tiles.This tower and the stone wall were destroyed during the great Nobi Earthquake in 1891 and later rebuilt in 1923 under orders of the Imperial Household Ministry. It is designated an Important Cultural Asset.
Second Front Gate
The Second Front Gate (Omote-ninomon) was formerly called the Second South Gate (Minami-ninomon) and leads into the inner Honmaru enceinte. The gate has heavy timber columns and a crossbar which were covered with strong iron plates and especially thick. On either side of the gate are rare examples of fireproofed plaster walls. Since the gate is still an original, it has been designated an Important Cultural Asset.Southeast Turret
Called the "Tatsumi" turret, the southeast turret looks like it has two stories, but actually has three. The white coating on the mud walls made the structure water- and fireproof. The southeast turret is similar to the southwest turret. The construction adheres to the original design by the Tokugawa. The symbol of a hollyhock, the crest of the Tokugawa family, can be seen on the ridge-end tiles. The turret has been designated an Important Cultural Asset.First East Gate
The First East Gate was a sturdy gate that forms a square shape with the outer gate. It also had a gabled, tile-roof, along with a smaller gate on the right hand side that connects with the tower gate. This gate was similar to the First Gate that was destroyed during World War II.Kiyomasa Stone
Many of the gates of Nagoya Castle have a square layout and the stone walls include several large stones to demonstrate the castle's defenses. According to legend, Kato KiyomasaKato Kiyomasa
was a Japanese daimyō of the Azuchi-Momoyama and Edo period.-Origins and early career:Kiyomasa was born in Owari Province to Katō Kiyotada. Kiyotada's wife, Ito, was a cousin of Toyotomi Hideyoshi's mother. Kiyotada died while his son was still young...
, a renowned general and castle engineer at the time, hauled a large stone to the castle that was later named after him. But it is probable that this part of the castle's foundation was constructed by Kuroda Nagamasa. Feudal lords who were ordered to build the stone walls carved their marks on the stones in order to distinguish their own from stones of other lords.
Keeps
Nagoya Castle is known for its unique "connected-donjon" style of construction with the main donjon of five stories on five different levels and a smaller donjon of stories, two levels, joined by an abutment bridge. Evidence that another small donjon was planned for the west side of the main donjon can be found in traces of an entryway in the upper part of the stone wall foundation on that side. The entryway to the small donjon was also planned for the west side. However during the construction, the location was changed to where it is today. Traces of the original entryway remain inside the stone wall.Various types of weapons were also stored on the first level of the castle's main donjon. Later, to prevent disasters due to accidents, flammable materials such as gunpowder
Gunpowder
Gunpowder, also known since in the late 19th century as black powder, was the first chemical explosive and the only one known until the mid 1800s. It is a mixture of sulfur, charcoal, and potassium nitrate - with the sulfur and charcoal acting as fuels, while the saltpeter works as an oxidizer...
were moved and kept in facilities outside the castle.
The small and main donjon both burned down during World War II and were reconstructed in 1959.
The job of constructing the castle walls was divided among twenty feudal lords, including Kiyomasa Kato. The walls of the donjon were built by the Kiyomasa family and the cornerstones of the building bear the inscriptions of the family members in charge of the construction. Those of Kato and retainers can be seen on the northeast corner. In the stone walls of the castle, there are marks of figures of triangles in circles, and the rough outlines of folding fans, war fans, and other objects. These are called kokumon or carved crests, and represent the different daimyo lords and their vassals who were apportioned sections in the construction. The signs were carved into the stone so that there would be no mistake as to which lord contributed which stone in the transportation, and to avoid disputes. Some of the foundation stones of the main castle tower were moved to a lawn on the north side during the 1959 reconstruction, due to damage from the immense heat of the fire and subsequent collapse of the tower.
The stone wall supporting the donjon was constructed by the technique called ogi kobai or "fan sloping", by which the upper part of the wall is curved outward like a fan. This wall is also called the Kiyomasa-style Crescent Stone Wall, after the general and engineer Kiyomasa Kato, who was in charge of its construction. The fan sloping technique was used to prevent swelling by curving the middle portion of the wall inward, thereby evenly balancing the stone weight against the pressure of sand and earth within.
There is a roofless corridor between the main and the small donjon. The walls in this corridor were earthen and stone, and mounted on the outer part of the west side are numerous 30 centimetre-long spearheads. These spearheads would thwart enemy climbers from coming over the eaves. This sword-fence can also be found at the Fumei Gate, facing the east side of the main donjon.
Golden dolphins
On either end of the topmost castle roof are two golden tiger-headed dolphins, called kinshachiShachihoko
A is an animal in Japanese folklore with the head of a tiger and the body of a carp. It was believed that this animal could cause the rain to fall, and as such, temples and castles were often adorned with roof ornaments crafted in the form of a shachihoko, in order to protect them from fire.The...
(金鯱). This motif was used as a talisman
Amulet
An amulet, similar to a talisman , is any object intended to bring good luck or protection to its owner.Potential amulets include gems, especially engraved gems, statues, coins, drawings, pendants, rings, plants and animals; even words said in certain occasions—for example: vade retro satana—, to...
to prevent fires. They first appeared in the Muromachi era (1334-1400) as a symbol of the lord's authority.
The original golden dolphins were formed over a roughly carved block of wood over which lead sheets were applied. Copper was placed over the lead, before the application of the final layer of gold which was produced from pounding gold coins into thin sheets. It is said that the gold used amounted to a value of 17,975 ryo (taels), when converted from Keicho-period coins. The core of the golden dolphins are composed of hinoki cypress
Cypress
Cypress is the name applied to many plants in the cypress family Cupressaceae, which is a conifer of northern temperate regions. Most cypress species are trees, while a few are shrubs...
, originally the foundation was sawara cypress.
The golden dolphins were melted down and recast three times during the Edo period, when the Owari branch suffered severe economic hardship. When the dolphins were recast in Bunsei 10 (1827), the purity of the gold was greatly decreased. In order to conceal the diminished luster, openings in the mesh in the protective bird screens built around the dolphins were made smaller during the Kyoho period (1715-1735).
After the Meiji Restoration, there was a trend to abandon old ways and plans were made to dismantle the castle donjons. During this time, the golden dolphins were donated by the Owari branch to the imperial government. In Meiji 4 (1871), they were removed from the main donjon and transported to Tokyo from Atsuta Port. When a scaffold was erected, a sentry from the army division stationed at the castle stole some scales.
In March 1872 (Meiji 5), the male dolphin was exhibited at Japan's first exposition in Yushima. Later, the male was displayed at regional expositions held in Ishikawa, Oita, Ehime and Nagoya. The female dolphin was even exhibited at the World Exposition in Vienna in 1873
Weltausstellung 1873 Wien
]The Weltausstellung 1873 Wien was the large World exposition was held in 1873 in the Austria–Hungarian capital of Vienna. Its motto was Kultur und Erziehung ....
. Later, when it was decided to preserve the donjon, a movement to return the dolphins was initiated. In Meiji 11 (1878), the golden dolphins were returned to Nagoya and restored to their original position in February of the following year.
Later in Meiji 9 (1937), during an inspection by the Castle Imperial Grant Commemorative Committee, a thief climbed the scaffold and stole scales. He was later caught in Osaka. Responsibility for this incident was traced back to city executives. Since the Meiji era, the golden dolphins have suffered theft on these three instances.
The dolphins were destroyed by fire during World War II. The second-generation golden dolphins were cast in the Osaka Mint and transported to the castle in March 1959 (Showa 39). Both kinshachi were lowered temporarily from atop the castle and displayed on the castle grounds briefly in September 1984 (Showa 59) for the Nagoya Castle Exhibition, and again from March 19 to June 19, 2005 (Heisei 17) at the site of the Expo 2005
Expo 2005
Expo 2005 was the World's Fair held for 185 days between Friday, March 25 and Sunday, September 25, 2005, in Aichi Prefecture, Japan, east of the city of Nagoya. It was a Specialized International Exhibition under the scheme of the 1972 protocol of the Convention relating to International Exhibitions...
. They were restored to the top beam of the castle roof on July 9, 2005 of the same year.
The kinshachi are male and female, with different specifications. The northern kinshachi is male, has a height of 2.621 Metres, weighs 1,272 kg, its number of scales is 112 and the weight of the gold (18 K) is 44.69 kg. The southern kinshachi is female, has a height of 2.579 metres, weighs 1,215 kg, its number of scales is 126 and the weight of its gold is 43.39 kg. For both dolphins, the gold plate quality is 18K and 0.15 mm thick.
Camellia Tree
There was once a camellia tree somewhere in the garden south of the Honmaru Palace. Since the Edo period this tree was considered to be a secret treasure of the Owari domain and every spring, it would bloom with large, colourful white flowers. The original tree was thought to have been lost when the castle burned down during an air raid in 1945, but remarkably new buds started to grow from the charred stump. The current tree was grafted from the original in 1955 and continues to grow today.Fumei Gate
The Fumei Gate (Fumei-mon) is located in the Tamon Wall, which leads into the Honmaru. It was always locked securely and therefore known as "the gate that never opens". The wall is called a "sword wall", because spearheads under the eaves prevented penetration by spies or attackers. The gate was destroyed in the air raid on May 14, 1945. It was reconstructed to its original form in March 1978.Ninomaru
The Ninomaru Palace is thought to have been completed in 1617. Tokugawa YoshinaoTokugawa Yoshinao
was a Japanese daimyo of the early Edo period.- Biography :Born as the ninth son of Tokugawa Ieyasu, his childhood name was Gorōtamaru. While still a young child, he was appointed leader of first the fief of Kofu in Kai Province and later the fief of Kiyosu in Owari Province...
, the first feudal lord of Owari, moved to this palace from Honmaru Palace in 1620. Besides serving as the residence of the lord, the palace functioned as the administrative center of the feudal government. Many more palaces were built in later years.
The Tokugawa Museum has a partial reconstruction of the reception chambers, such as the Kusari-no-ma and the Hiro-ma, which include display alcoves, staggered shelves and writing alcoves equipped with authentic furnishings.
The palace had two stages for performances of Noh
Noh
, or - derived from the Sino-Japanese word for "skill" or "talent" - is a major form of classical Japanese musical drama that has been performed since the 14th century. Many characters are masked, with men playing male and female roles. Traditionally, a Noh "performance day" lasts all day and...
: the omote-butai, or front stage, and oku-butai, the rear stage. Noh was performed to commemorate a lord's succession to a fiefdom and to celebrate the birth of an heir. The Tokugawas of Owari were patrons of many Noh actors. The modern Nagoya Noh Theatre
Nagoya Noh Theatre
The Nagoya Noh Theatre is a Noh drama theatre building located in the city of Nagoya, central Japan.- History :The history of Noh in Owari Province dates back to the heydays of feudal rule, when performances were shown at the Ninomaru Palace of Nagoya Castle...
was opened in April 1997 and is situated just south of the front gate of Nagoya Castle. A reconstruction of one of the Noh stages of the Ninomaru can be seen in the Tokugawa Art Museum. The tradition of courtly Noh is upheld in the Nagoya Noh Theatre, located in the Sannomaru enceinte.
The Ninonomaru last existed in the Kaei
Kaei
was a after Kōka and before Ansei. This period spanned the years from February 1848 through November 1854. The reigning emperor was .-Change of era:...
period (1848-54). Facilities for conducting clan affairs, residences for retainers, gardens and stables (Mukaiyashiki) were located there. The western two-thirds of the area was known as the Oshiro (the castle), while the eastern one-third was called Ninomaru Goten (the palace). The gardens originally included flowering trees, stone lanterns
Tōrō
A "灯篭" is just a simplified form of "灯籠". is a Japanese lantern made of stone, wood, or metal traditional in the Far East. In China extant specimen are very rare, and in Korea too they are not as common as in Japan. In Japan, tōrō were originally used only in Buddhist temples, where they lined and...
and a traditional Japanese-style tea arbour arranged in a circular pattern. After the Meiji Restoration
Meiji Restoration
The , also known as the Meiji Ishin, Revolution, Reform or Renewal, was a chain of events that restored imperial rule to Japan in 1868...
, the original was demolished to build army barracks, but it was restored and designated as an official scenic spot after the war.
Three chief retainers of the Owari branch were executed in the Ninomaru Palace in 1868 what became known as the Aomatsuba Incident
Aomatsuba Incident
The Aomatsuba Incident took place in 1868 in Nagoya Castle.- History :Three chief retainers of the Owari branch of the ruling Tokugawa clan were executed in the Ninomaru Palace of Nagoya Castle. Early in the Showa era, around 1926, a monument was erected at the execution site...
. Early in the Showa era, around 1926, a monument was erected at the execution site. The exact site is unknown although it is thought to have taken place approximately 100 metres south of the current site of the monument. The stone stelae was re-erected after the original one disappeared.
Old Ninomaru Second East Gate
The old Ninomaru Second East Gate, also called the East Iron Gate, was the outer gate of the Ninomaru enceinte on the east side. It was a square, box-like structure with two separate doors opening into and out of the enclosure. In 1963, the gate was dismantled and stored temporarily to make way for the construction of the Aichi Prefectural GymnasiumAichi Prefectural Gymnasium
The is an all purpose gymnasium in Aichi, Japan, built in 1964. Located on the site of the secondary enclosure of Nagoya Castle, it is host to numerous concerts and events...
. In 1972, the gate was relocated to the side of the old Honmaru East Gate, where it stands today. The gate, built in the style of gates in ancient Korea, with a tile-covered slanting roof and plastered eaves, has iron-banded pillars, a crosspiece and doors.
Uzumi Gate
The Uzumi Gate led to an underground tunnelTunnel
A tunnel is an underground passageway, completely enclosed except for openings for egress, commonly at each end.A tunnel may be for foot or vehicular road traffic, for rail traffic, or for a canal. Some tunnels are aqueducts to supply water for consumption or for hydroelectric stations or are sewers...
that ran beneath the castle walls. This tunnel was the secret escape route to the be used by the lord of the castle during times of emergency. The remains of the entrance can be found in the northwest part of the Ninomaru Garden. Steep stairs led down to the moat. The lord could cross the moat by boat to reach the Ofukemaru Garden on the opposite side. He could use a secret escape route to get to the Kiso Road by way of Doishita, Kachigawa and Jokoji Temple.
Namban Wall
The remains of the Namban, or European, wall can be seen north of the Ninomaru Garden where they run from east to west on top of the stone wall. This sturdy wall was constructed using the European plaster method, topped with tiles, and had many round gunports. Today this wall is considered to be a unique feature to Nagoya Castle and has been designed an important cultural asset.Ninomaru Garden
Ninomaru Garden and what is presently known as Ninomaru East Garden were once part of the Ninomaru Palace. It is said to have been built between 1615 and 1623, when the Ninomaru Palace was constructed. The sanctuary on the north side of the palace was its centrepiece. It was however transformed into a Japanese dry landscape gardenJapanese rock garden
The or "dry landscape" gardens, often called "Zen gardens", are a type of garden that features extensive use of rocks or stones, along with plants native to rocky or alpine environments that were influenced mainly by Zen Buddhism and can be found at Zen temples of meditation.- Overview :Japanese...
in 1716, designed to be walked through. The garden has been remodeled many times since then, especially between 1818 to 1829/1830. Although the area of the garden is small, it was designed to represent steep hills, forests, and deep valleys. There were also many large rocks placed within its boundaries. On top of the hill the thickly growing trees offered the lord protection from enemies by providing a hiding place and a secret escape route. These characteristics of the garden have faded over the years, but the basic structure of the original plan still remains. The garden has been expanded and undergone restorations during the years.
This dry landscape garden covers an area of 5137 square metres (55,294.2 sq ft) and is separated into north and south areas. Comparatively, the north half of the garden retains more of the shape of the original garden. The pond is surrounded by five artificial mountains and has several islands. There are various kinds of walkways around the garden, including a stone bridge, mountain pathway, and shoreline path. The pond represents a ravine made up with many round rocks.
The garden has many high quality rocks from various regions throughout Japan and some of them, including the pines, can be used for medicinal uses. Located in the garden is a modern teahouse, constructed out of hinoki cypress
Chamaecyparis obtusa
Chamaecyparis obtusa is a species of cypress native to central Japan.It is a slow-growing tree which grows to 35 m tall with a trunk up to 1 m in diameter. The bark is dark red-brown...
from the Kiso region. A tatami
Tatami
A is a type of mat used as a flooring material in traditional Japanese-style rooms. Traditionally made of rice straw to form the core , with a covering of woven soft rush straw, tatami are made in standard sizes, with the length exactly twice the width...
mat room and a washing room are located in it.
Ninomaru East Garden
According to the Oshiro Oniwa Ezu, the Ninomaru Palace Garden was grand in scale, featuring Mt. Gongen in the north, Mt. Sazae in the west, a large pond in the south, and six tea houses dotted around the rest of the garden.During the early years of the Meiji era, an army barracks was set up in the eastern garden. Mt. Gongen was leveled and the pond filled in to make room for the military barracks. In 1975, part of the garden was excavated, using the old drawing as a guide. The garden was renovated mainly around four unearthed structures: the North and South Ponds, the site of the Soketsu-tei teahouse and the so-called North Culvert. The garden was opened to the public in April 1978 and named the Ninomaru East Garden. Rebuilt, the four form the main features of the 14000 square metres (150,694.7 sq ft) garden. Also nearby are gardens of peonies and other flowers.
North Culvert
The remains of a drain located outside the garden depicted in Oshiro Oniwa Ezu, a historic drawing of the old castle garden, have been restored exactly as they were found in an excavation survey. According to the drawing, there was also a flower bed nearby this drain, which is thought to the remains of a stone culvert for channeling rainwater, as mentioned in the "Kinjo Onkoroku" document. Even today rainwater is channeled to the moat through this drain. The stone materials of the culvert include granite for the lid and hard sandstone for the sides.Site of the Soketsu-tei
Six tea housesChashitsu
In Japanese tradition, architectural spaces designed to be used for tea ceremony gatherings are known as chashitsu ....
used to be located in the old Ninomaru Garden, including Tashun-en, Yamashita Oseki, Yoho-tei and Fushin-tei. A reconstruction of the thatched Sarumen tea house is located in the Tokugawa Museum. The Soketsu-tei, the largest one of them, was built in the Sukiya style. In an excavation survey, a site almost exactly matching that of the Soketsu-tei as depicted in Oniwa Ezu, the historic plan of the old castle garden, was identified. Today, cobble stones are placed to mark where tatami mats would have been, rubble and plaster where the hallway was, and gravel on the other surfaces for an easy understanding of the original structure.
South Pond
In the historic drawing of the old castle garden, the Oshiro Oniwa Ezu, a dry pond is depicted with a large boat-shaped stone on the northern shore and an island of rocks in the middle. In an excavation survey, the large boat-shaped stone was not found, but it is believed that the island lies under three rocks in the pond which can be seen. The actual pond is believe to have been deep, surrounded by sturdily piled rocks, and exceptionally large in scale, much larger than depicted in the drawing.Ofukemaru
Formally a marsh located on the northern edge of the Nagoya Plateau, the Ofukemaru is said to have been reclaimed with pine and many other trees at the time of the castle's construction. It is also known as the Fukaimaru.Necessary arms and ammunition, etc. outside that which the retainers had in their own possession, were originally stored in the facilities called Ozutsu-gure, Tezutsu-gura, Migaki-gura and Ana-gura, as well as Shio-gura (salt storehouse) in the eastern corner. The warehouses have almost all disappeared over time, some teahouses are now there instead.
Nogi Warehouse
After the deployment of a garrison of the Imperial Army in 1872, was the whole Sannomaru enceinte of the castle placed under their control in 1874. The warehouse was probably constructed in 1880 (Meiji 13) as an ammunition depot for the army. It was named after General Nogi Maresuke, who was posted to Nagoya during the early Meiji era (1868-1912). It is the only warehouse that has survived in the Ofukemaru.This warehouse is a one-story brick building with white plastered walls, small windows on the side and a Japanese-styled tiled roof. Its total size is 89.25 square metres, 12.28 metres from east to west, 8.6 metres from north to south, and 7.68 metres in height. The size of the ancillary gunpowder depot is 13.12 square metres. The building is characterised by the arched entrance and the underfloor area, as well as the white-coloured masonry plaster at the corners of the building. The doors are covered with copper sheets, as well as the four small windows on the sides.
Although the castle itself was destroyed during World War II
World War II
World War II, or the Second World War , was a global conflict lasting from 1939 to 1945, involving most of the world's nations—including all of the great powers—eventually forming two opposing military alliances: the Allies and the Axis...
, the screen and ceiling paintings of the Honmaru Palace were left undamaged because they were being stored in this warehouse.
Northwest Turret
Also called Inui turret, the northwest turret is three-storey structure with a roof at each level. The top layer, designed in the irimoya style, is covered with tiles. Many materials were taken from previous structures in Kiyosu CastleKiyosu Castle
is a castle that acted as a base of operations for Oda Nobunaga during the latter half of the Sengoku period of feudal Japan. It is located in the city of Kiyosu, Aichi Prefecture, Japan....
constructing this tower, it is therefore also called the Kiyosu turret. It is designated an Important Cultural Asset
Important Cultural Properties of Japan
The term is often shortened into just are items officially already classified as Tangible Cultural Properties of Japan by the Japanese Agency for Cultural Affairs and judged to be of particular importance to the Japanese people....
.
Projections on the first-storey outer walls facing north and west are trapdoor
Trapdoor
A trapdoor is a door set into a floor or ceiling .Originally, trapdoors were sack traps in mills, and allowed the sacks to pass up through the mill while naturally falling back to a closed position....
s from which stones could be dropped on attacking forces. They are disguised with gabled roofs. Unlike other corner turrets that still exist, the northwest turret has gables on the east and south facing inside, projecting an image of balance and stability.
"Cormorant's Neck" Moat
In places such as the Ofukemaru and Nishinomaru the moat comes in close to the castle wall. This is called the cormorantCormorant
The bird family Phalacrocoracidae is represented by some 40 species of cormorants and shags. Several different classifications of the family have been proposed recently, and the number of genera is disputed.- Names :...
's neck because it is long and thin. This was done to increase the defendability of the castle. Five of these cormorant-neck shaped moats still exist throughout the castle area.
Plants and animals
The Ninomaru gardens and other areas such as the Ofukemaru have a wide variety of floraFlora
Flora is the plant life occurring in a particular region or time, generally the naturally occurring or indigenous—native plant life. The corresponding term for animals is fauna.-Etymology:...
. In Spring, Japanese Cherry, wisteria
Wisteria
Wisteria is a genus of flowering plants in the pea family, Fabaceae, that includes ten species of woody climbing vines native to the eastern United States and to China, Korea, and Japan. Aquarists refer to the species Hygrophila difformis, in the family Acanthaceae, as Water Wisteria...
, camellia
Camellia
Camellia, the camellias, is a genus of flowering plants in the family Theaceae. They are found in eastern and southern Asia, from the Himalaya east to Korea and Indonesia. There are 100–250 described species, with some controversy over the exact number...
and peony
Peony
Peony or paeony is a name for plants in the genus Paeonia, the only genus in the flowering plant family Paeoniaceae. They are native to Asia, southern Europe and western North America...
bloom. In the summer it is iris
Iris (plant)
Iris is a genus of 260-300species of flowering plants with showy flowers. It takes its name from the Greek word for a rainbow, referring to the wide variety of flower colors found among the many species...
, crape myrtle, plantain lily and hydrangea
Hydrangea
Hydrangea is a genus of about 70 to 75 species of flowering plants native to southern and eastern Asia and North and South America. By far the greatest species diversity is in eastern Asia, notably China, Japan, and Korea...
, in autumn the confederate rose, Japanese quince and crape myrtle, and in winter the Japanese witch hazel, Japanese quince, wintersweet and Japanese plum
Japanese plum
Japanese plum may refer to:*Prunus mume*Prunus salicina*Loquat...
that bloom. During the summer, Sika Deer
Sika Deer
The Sika Deer, Cervus nippon, also known as the Spotted Deer or the Japanese Deer, is a species of deer native to much of East Asia and introduced to various other parts of the world...
can also be observed grazing in the moats that are dry and covered with grass. Various birds such as ducks and songbird
Songbird
A songbird is a bird belonging to the suborder Passeri of the perching birds . Another name that is sometimes seen as scientific or vernacular name is Oscines, from Latin oscen, "a songbird"...
s also inhabit the castle grounds as their sanctuary in the middle of the city.
Cultural influence
Another way of pronouncing Nagoya Castle (名古屋城) is Meijō (名城). This name can be found for many things in the city, such as the Meijō Park, the Meijō LineMeijo Line
The is a subway line, part of the system in Nagoya, Japan. It is a loop line that runs from Kanayama, through Sakae, Ōzone, Nagoya Daigaku, and back to Kanayama, all within Nagoya. The Meijō Line's color on maps is wisteria purple. Its stations carry the letter M followed by a number. Officially,...
and Meijo University
Meijo University
is a private university in Japan. Its main campus is in Tempaku-ku, Nagoya, Aichi and it has a satellite campus in Kani, Gifu.- History :The name Meijō derives itself from the abbreviated kanji form of ....
.
Nagoya castle has been featured in many films such as Mothra vs. Godzilla
Mothra vs. Godzilla
is a 1964 science fiction kaiju film directed by Ishirō Honda. It was the fourth film to be released in the Godzilla series, produced by Toho Company Ltd...
and Gamera vs. Gyaos
Gamera vs. Gyaos
is a 1967 daikaiju eiga featuring the giant turtle Gamera by the Daiei Motion Picture Company. Gamera vs. Gyaos was released in the United States by AIP-TV as Return of the Giant Monsters, and later by Sandy Frank as Gamera vs. Gaos...
.
See also
- Ōzone ShimoyashikiŌzone ShimoyashikiThe Ōzone Shimoyashiki is a former residence of the Owari branch of the Tokugawa clan, located in Ōzone in Higashi ward in Nagoya, central Japan.- History :...
, a residence established by Tokugawa Mitsumoto (1625-1700), second lord of Owari - List of Special Places of Scenic Beauty, Special Historic Sites and Special Natural Monuments
External links
- Official Homepage
- Hommaru Palace Website of reconstruction efforts with 3D images
- History of Nagoya Castle
- Nagoya Castle (moving image)