One-sided overhand bend
Encyclopedia
The overhand bend is a knot
used to join two rope
s together. The overhand bend is formed by holding two rope ends next to each other and tying an overhand knot
in them as if they were a single line. Due to its common use in several fields, this bend has become known by many names.
to join the ends of yarn
, the overhand bend is very old. It was one of the knots likely identified among the possessions of Ötzi the Iceman
, who dates from 3300 BC. The knot is also tied in a slipped form by mechanical baler
s to bind straw
and hay
, but this bend is not practical to use as a binding knot when tied by hand.
, the overhand bend is one of several knots used for joining two ropes for a rappel longer than half the length of the ropes
. It is prone to failure by capsizing under high loads. Due to this behavior, American climbers often refer to it as the European Death Knot or EDK. But these initial failures can reform the knot tighter, if the ends are long enough to avoid passing into the knot.
Despite questions about this knot's security, it does present some advantages for use in rappels. Because the bulk of the knot is not in line with the rope, it can slide more easily over mountain terrain than other bends. Along with its comparatively small size, this aids in rope retrieval by reducing its chance of getting stuck on edges, in cracks, or descent equipment. Since a stuck rope on a descent also represents a serious hazard to climbers, these advantages, along with ease of tying, have led to its popularity. It is recommended by some sources with the caveats that the ends be left very long (>30 cm), the knot be carefully dressed and fully tightened by pulling individually on all four strands, and then subjected only to moderate rappelling loads.
The one-sided or Offset Figure Eight Bend, a similar knot using the figure-eight knot, has been used in the belief that its greater size and complexity brings more security. But testing and more than one fatal failure indicate the figure-eight variant to be less secure, more prone to capsize at lower loads, and in capsizing uses more of the ends than does a capsizing overhand bend. Moreover, while there is one obvious proper dressing of the Overhand Bend, there are a couple of dressings for the Offset Figure Eight Bend.
Knot
A knot is a method of fastening or securing linear material such as rope by tying or interweaving. It may consist of a length of one or several segments of rope, string, webbing, twine, strap, or even chain interwoven such that the line can bind to itself or to some other object—the "load"...
used to join two rope
Rope
A rope is a length of fibres, twisted or braided together to improve strength for pulling and connecting. It has tensile strength but is too flexible to provide compressive strength...
s together. The overhand bend is formed by holding two rope ends next to each other and tying an overhand knot
Overhand knot
The overhand knot is one of the most fundamental knots and forms the basis of many others including the simple noose, overhand loop, angler's loop, reef knot, fisherman's knot and water knot. The overhand knot is very secure, to the point of jamming badly. It should be used if the knot is...
in them as if they were a single line. Due to its common use in several fields, this bend has become known by many names.
Uses
Easily formed in most line, the overhand bend can be difficult or impossible to untie once tightened. Long used by weaversWeaving
Weaving is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. The other methods are knitting, lace making and felting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft or filling...
to join the ends of yarn
Yarn
Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and ropemaking. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or...
, the overhand bend is very old. It was one of the knots likely identified among the possessions of Ötzi the Iceman
Ötzi the Iceman
Ötzi the Iceman , Similaun Man, and Man from Hauslabjoch are modern names for a well-preserved natural mummy of a man who lived about 5,300 years ago. The mummy was found in September 1991 in the Ötztal Alps, near Hauslabjoch on the border between Austria and Italy. The nickname comes from the...
, who dates from 3300 BC. The knot is also tied in a slipped form by mechanical baler
Baler
A baler is a piece of farm machinery used to compress a cut and raked crop into compact bales that are easy to handle, transport and store...
s to bind straw
Straw
Straw is an agricultural by-product, the dry stalks of cereal plants, after the grain and chaff have been removed. Straw makes up about half of the yield of cereal crops such as barley, oats, rice, rye and wheat. It has many uses, including fuel, livestock bedding and fodder, thatching and...
and hay
Hay
Hay is grass, legumes or other herbaceous plants that have been cut, dried, and stored for use as animal fodder, particularly for grazing livestock such as cattle, horses, goats, and sheep. Hay is also fed to pets such as rabbits and guinea pigs...
, but this bend is not practical to use as a binding knot when tied by hand.
In climbing and mountaineering
In climbingClimbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...
, the overhand bend is one of several knots used for joining two ropes for a rappel longer than half the length of the ropes
Kernmantle rope
Kernmantle rope is rope constructed with its interior core protected with a woven exterior sheath that is designed to optimize strength, durability, and flexibility. The core fibers provide the tensile strength of the rope, while the sheath protects the core from abrasion during use...
. It is prone to failure by capsizing under high loads. Due to this behavior, American climbers often refer to it as the European Death Knot or EDK. But these initial failures can reform the knot tighter, if the ends are long enough to avoid passing into the knot.
Despite questions about this knot's security, it does present some advantages for use in rappels. Because the bulk of the knot is not in line with the rope, it can slide more easily over mountain terrain than other bends. Along with its comparatively small size, this aids in rope retrieval by reducing its chance of getting stuck on edges, in cracks, or descent equipment. Since a stuck rope on a descent also represents a serious hazard to climbers, these advantages, along with ease of tying, have led to its popularity. It is recommended by some sources with the caveats that the ends be left very long (>30 cm), the knot be carefully dressed and fully tightened by pulling individually on all four strands, and then subjected only to moderate rappelling loads.
The one-sided or Offset Figure Eight Bend, a similar knot using the figure-eight knot, has been used in the belief that its greater size and complexity brings more security. But testing and more than one fatal failure indicate the figure-eight variant to be less secure, more prone to capsize at lower loads, and in capsizing uses more of the ends than does a capsizing overhand bend. Moreover, while there is one obvious proper dressing of the Overhand Bend, there are a couple of dressings for the Offset Figure Eight Bend.