Pea coat
Encyclopedia
A pea coat is an outer coat, generally of a navy-colored
heavy wool
, originally worn by sailor
s of American
and European navies. Pea coats are characterized by broad lapels
, double-breasted
fronts, often large wooden or metal buttons, and vertical or slash pockets. References to the pea jacket appear in American newspapers at least as early as the 1720s, and modern renditions still maintain the original design and composition.
A "bridge coat" is a pea coat that extends to the thighs, and is a uniform exclusively for officer
s and Chief Petty Officer
s. The "reefer" is for officers only, and is identical to the basic design but usually has gold buttons and epaulette
s.
A few of the jackets seen on the street are genuine navy surplus; being a classic garment, it is frequently available from retailers, though often with small design changes that reflect the current fashion trends. The standard for historical pea coats was 30 ounces (850.5 g) wool, most often made of heavy Melton Cloth through the 1970s in the U.S. Navy. Presently coats are made from 22–32 oz (623.7–907.2 g) wool. While pea coats are offered in many colors by retailers, the U.S. Navy-issue pea coat is dark blue.
The term "pea coat" originated from the Dutch
or West Frisian
word pijjekker, in which pij referred to the type of cloth used, a coarse kind of twill
ed blue cloth with a nap
on one side.
Navy blue
Navy blue is a very dark shade of the color blue which almost appears as black. Navy blue got its name from the dark blue worn by officers in the British Royal Navy since 1748 and subsequently adopted by other navies around the world....
heavy wool
Wool
Wool is the textile fiber obtained from sheep and certain other animals, including cashmere from goats, mohair from goats, qiviut from muskoxen, vicuña, alpaca, camel from animals in the camel family, and angora from rabbits....
, originally worn by sailor
Sailor
A sailor, mariner, or seaman is a person who navigates water-borne vessels or assists in their operation, maintenance, or service. The term can apply to professional mariners, military personnel, and recreational sailors as well as a plethora of other uses...
s of American
United States
The United States of America is a federal constitutional republic comprising fifty states and a federal district...
and European navies. Pea coats are characterized by broad lapels
Jacket lapel
Jacket lapels are the folded flaps of cloth on the front of a jacket or coat, and are most commonly found on formal clothing and suit jackets. Usually they are formed by folding over the front edges of the jacket or coat and sewing them to the collar, an extra piece of fabric around the back of the...
, double-breasted
Double-breasted
In clothing, the term double-breasted refers to a coat or jacket with wide, overlapping front flaps and two parallel columns of buttons or snaps; by contrast, a single-breasted coat has a narrow overlap and only one column of buttons. In most modern double-breasted coats, one column of buttons is...
fronts, often large wooden or metal buttons, and vertical or slash pockets. References to the pea jacket appear in American newspapers at least as early as the 1720s, and modern renditions still maintain the original design and composition.
A "bridge coat" is a pea coat that extends to the thighs, and is a uniform exclusively for officer
Officer (armed forces)
An officer is a member of an armed force or uniformed service who holds a position of authority. Commissioned officers derive authority directly from a sovereign power and, as such, hold a commission charging them with the duties and responsibilities of a specific office or position...
s and Chief Petty Officer
Chief Petty Officer
A chief petty officer is a senior non-commissioned officer in many navies and coast guards.-Canada:"Chief Petty Officer" refers to two ranks in the Canadian Navy...
s. The "reefer" is for officers only, and is identical to the basic design but usually has gold buttons and epaulette
Epaulette
Epaulette is a type of ornamental shoulder piece or decoration used as insignia of rank by armed forces and other organizations.Epaulettes are fastened to the shoulder by a shoulder strap or "passant", a small strap parallel to the shoulder seam, and the button near the collar, or by laces on the...
s.
Characteristics
Today the style is considered a classic, and pea coats are now worn by all manner of individuals. The style has evolved to the addition of hoods.A few of the jackets seen on the street are genuine navy surplus; being a classic garment, it is frequently available from retailers, though often with small design changes that reflect the current fashion trends. The standard for historical pea coats was 30 ounces (850.5 g) wool, most often made of heavy Melton Cloth through the 1970s in the U.S. Navy. Presently coats are made from 22–32 oz (623.7–907.2 g) wool. While pea coats are offered in many colors by retailers, the U.S. Navy-issue pea coat is dark blue.
The term "pea coat" originated from the Dutch
Dutch language
Dutch is a West Germanic language and the native language of the majority of the population of the Netherlands, Belgium, and Suriname, the three member states of the Dutch Language Union. Most speakers live in the European Union, where it is a first language for about 23 million and a second...
or West Frisian
West Frisian language
West Frisian is a language spoken mostly in the province of Friesland in the north of the Netherlands. West Frisian is the name by which this language is usually known outside the Netherlands, to distinguish it from the closely related Frisian languages of Saterland Frisian and North Frisian,...
word pijjekker, in which pij referred to the type of cloth used, a coarse kind of twill
Twill
Twill is a type of textile weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs . This is done by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads and then under two or more warp threads and so on, with a "step" or offset between rows to create the characteristic diagonal pattern. Because of this...
ed blue cloth with a nap
Nap (textile)
Primarily, nap is the raised surface on certain kinds of cloth, such as velvet. Nap can refer additionally to other surfaces that look like the surface of a napped cloth, such as the surface of a felt or beaver hat....
on one side.