Peneda-Gerês National Park
Encyclopedia
The Peneda-Gerês National Park , also known simply as Gerês, is the only national park
in Portugal
(although many natural parks, protected landscapes, and reserves exist across the nation). It is located in the Norte region, in the northwest of Portugal, specifically in the districts of Viana do Castelo, Braga, and Vila Real.
The park was created on 8 May 1971 due to its national and international scientific interest, with the aim to protect the soil, water, flora, fauna, and landscape, while preserving its value to the existent human and natural resources. Education and tourism are also goals of the park.
s and other megalithic tombs remain interspersed within the region, including near Castro Laboreiro
and Mourela. Human activities consisted of animal husbandry and incipient agriculture, and archaeological evidence points to the beginning of decrease in forest cover.
The Roman Geira, a Roman road
, crosses the region, which formerly connected the Roman civitas of Asturgia and Braccara Augusta
. Long stretches of the road, along the Homem River are still preserved, along with several Roman bridge
s and numerous millenarium markers. The Germanic tribe of the Buri
accompanied the Suebi
in their invasion of the Iberian Peninsula
and establishment in Gallaecia
(modern northernPortugal
and Galicia). The Buri settled in the region between the Cávado
and Homem Rivers, in the area later known as Terras de Bouro (Land of the Buri). The move from the terraced cliffs and slopes to the lowland river valleys brought-on a patterned of new deforestation.
The reoccupation of mountain areas started in the 12th century, intensifying the 16th century with the introduction of maize, bean and potato from the Americas. Agricultural fields occupied former pastures, and these were displaced to more elevated areas resulting in a mosaic of fields, pastures and forests.
The reforestation of uncultivated lands, imposed by the government in 1935, reduced the available pastures, and contributed to a rural exodus that continued after the 1950s. Yet, it was still common practice for the residents of mountain communities to spend part of the year in two locations, primarily near Castro Laboreiro
. From about Easter
to about Christmas
, residents would live in homes above 1,000 m above sea level, known as branda (from the Portuguese brando, meaning mild or gentle). In the remaining part of the year, these inhabitants would occupy homes in the river valley, known as inverneira (from the Portuguese Inverno, meaning winter).
In 1970, the village of Vilarinho das Furnas
was flooded by the Vilarinho das Furnas dam on the Homem River. During years with low rainfall, the village ruins stands above the water, attracting thousands of tourists.
The creation of the National Park (completed under decree no. 187/71, 8 May 1971) envisioned a planning area of mountainous spaces, in order to conserve the environment, while permitting human and natural resource activities, which would include educational, touristic and scientific projects. At heart is the conservation of soils, water, flora and fauna, in addition to the preservation of landscapes within the vast mountainous region in the northwest of Portugal.
In 1997, Peneda-Gerês was included in the Natura 2000
network, and in 1999, designated a Special Protection Area for Wild Birds. Moreover it also encompasses an important area of natural forest, that integrates the European Network of Biogenetic Reserves, and is recognized as a National Park by the International Union for Conservation of Nature. In 2007, it was accepted in the PAN Parks
network that certifies the quality protected areas, according to rigorous criteria of nature conservation, cultural services and sustainability.
), and Montalegre (district Villa Real). The park includes an area of 702.90 km2, of which 52.75 km2 are public lands
, 194.38 km2 are private property
and the remaining 455.77 km2 are commons.
by geological forces, wind and water, and extends from the Castro Laboreiro to the Mourela plateaus, encompassing the Serra da Peneda, Serra do Soajo, Serra Amarela and the Serra do Gerês. These form a barrier between the ocean plain
s to its west and the plateaus in the east. The highest peaks are Penedes (1340 m), Soajo (1430 m), Amarelo (1350 m), Gerês (1545 m) and Altar dos Cabrões (1,538 m) located on the border with Spain
, continuing into this territory as part of the Serra do Xurés
.
The granitic rocks that dominate this shield were deposited during the process of continental collision that brought together the lower Iberian peninsula with Europe, between 380 million and 275 million years; the oldest of them, at Amarela, date from 310 million years ago. The most extensive of the granitic rocks that occur within the park are the Penede-Gerês pluton
which is an exposed relief that became exposed around 290-296 Ma by the Gerês-Lovios fault. Sedimentary layers laid down between 435 and 408 Ma (Silurian
epoch) were deformed and metamorphosed into schist
s, greywacke
s and quartzite
s (such as in the area of Castro Laboreiro). Also, dyke
s and sill
s formed from quartz and aplite-pegmatites were mineralized resulting in tin, tungsten, molybdenum and gold (which would become the focus of mining in the human era, at the now-closed mines of Carris and Borrageiro). Generally, the lithological structures can be divided into three layers:
During the Pleistocene (approximately 1.8 to 0.001 Ma ago) climatic variations resulted in an extension of glacial fields to the mid-latitudes. While there are no remnants of glaciers now, their Ice Age
products (U-shaped valleys, moraines, glacial deposits, polished and natural granite surfaces) are identified in the Serra da Peneda, Serra do Soajo and Serra do Gerês mountain ranges. The principal watersheds that cross the park are those of the Minho
(occupying 2% of the Park), Lima (47.8%) and Cávado
(50.2%), with brooks and waterfalls common on many of the mountain slopes, in addition to several secondary tributaries (such as the Homem, Rabagão, Castro Laboreiro, and Arado rivers). The Cávado cuts across the PNPG east to west, while the Lima serves the southern limits of the districts of Vila Real and Braga. Fractures in the landscape have confined the rivers to deep, straight valleys and are visible in the younger granite outcrops visible in the uncovered higher altitudes. Owing to the number tributaries, the construction of hydroelectrical dams has been undertaken to generate electricity across six locations: Alto Rabagão, Paradela, Caniçada, Vilarinho da Furna
, Touvedo and Lindoso.
Soils within the elevated terrains and inclined spaces are non-existent, while the valleys are rich and deep, deposited and transported by pluvial action. These strata are textured, permeable, easily worked, albeit with a weak consistency, and marked by the peculiarities of local agriculture. The incorporation of biomass and elevated precipitation, along with the low Autumn-Winter temperatures give an origin to the alterations in pH levels. The elevated levels of incompletely decomposed organic material, low in phosphorus and intermittently low/high in potassium, are subject of alluvial deposition.
It falls in a part of Portugal (and Europe) that is affected by extreme rainfall, obtaining precipitation levels of 3000 millimetres per year, with more than 130 rainy days per year.
Average annual temperatures range from 17°C to 20°C, with some variation; the high lands have an average temperature of about 10°C, ranging from 4 to 14 °C, while areas in the valleys (such as the Homem and Cávado river valleys) have milder climates, with temperatures ranging from 8 to 20 °C (with an average of 14 °C).
Consequently, the area is prone to various micro-climates, affected by variations in altitude, topographic characteristics, human occupation, different exposures and thermal variation. Similarly, the variation has resulted in a variation in vegetation characteristic of Mediterranean, Euro-Siberian and Alpine environments.
The floristic diversity includes 823 vascular taxa that occur in 128 types of natural vegetation. The oak forests which are common throughout the park, are specifically concentrated in Ramiscal, Peneda, Gerês and Beredo river valleys. These forested are dominated by an alliance between the Pyrenean (Quercus pyrenaica) and English (Quercus robur) oaks, which themselves are differentiated among the lower altitudes and exposed flanks (the Rusceto-Quercetum roboris) and those oaks with Atlantic characteristics (Myretillo-Quercetum roboris). The first association are commonly found with English oak (Quercus rober), Cork oak (Quercus suber), Butcher's broom (Ruscus aculeatus), Maple (Acer pseudoplatanus) and Portuguese laurel (Prunus lusitanica
), while the second association unites the English and Pyrenean oaks with Bilberry
(Vaccinium myrtillus
), Strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) and European holly (Ilex aquifolium). In upper altitudes there are patches of English oak that enter into their own association (Holco-Quercetum pyrenacia), which is integrated into another group (Quericon robri-patraea). These oaks have been, over the course of human settlement, the object of intense use, resulting in a general degradation of the spaces into nothing more than shrubbery.
The bush and shrublands, which characterize the remainder of the spaces (74% of the park), are dominated by Dwarf (Ulex minor
) and European
(Ulex europaeus)Gorse
and Heather
(Erica umbellata and Calluna vulgaris), with a mixtures of Common Juniper (Juniperus communis
), Southern Heather (Erica australis) in the upper altitudes, while lower altitude bush includes Cross-leaved heather (Erica tetralix
), Dwarf Gorse (Ulex minor), Dorest heath (Erica ciliaris
), Common sundew (Drosera rotundifolia
), Pale butterwort (Pinguicula lusitanica
), Marsh Violet (Viola palustris
) and Purple Moor Grass (Molinia caerulea).
Riparian and marshlands along the river courses are also sites of rare species of Chain ferns (Woodwardia radicans), Willow (Salix repens), Downy Birch (Betula pubescens), Deciduous shrubs (Spiraea hypericifolia), Portuguese Enchanter's nightshade
(Circaea lusitanica) and Angelica herbs (Angelica laevis).
There are 627 flora species identified by Serra and Carvalho (1989) as under pressure and considered endangered, which included two medicinal plants: Tutsan (Hypericum androsaemum
) and Sundew (Drosera rotundifolia
). Based on the protection list of botanical species, and UICN categories: 18 are considered in risk of extinction, 17 are vulnerable and one is rare. They also identified two species as extinct within the Park boundaries: a Geranium (Geranium lanuginosum) and Fragrant orchid (Gymnadenia conopsea). There are three endemic species. Those factors that have been identified that threaten these habitats include: natural and manmade fires, use of forest for fuel wood and agricultural use of habitats.
Many of the studies conducted on the species that inhabitant the Park have been concentrated in the area of Matas de Albergaria/Palheiros, traditionally identified as the "heart" of the Park. Work by the Faculty of Sciences at the University of Porto
and University of Minho
have concentrated on a few mammals (Pyrenean Desman
, European Otter
, Roe Deer
, and Wild boar), reptiles and fish. These studies looked into the numbers of species and factors influencing their habitats.
Approximately 235 vertebrate species were identified within the boundaries of the Park, of which 200 are threatened or under protection. These include three species of bat under pressure (of the eight that exist): Greater Horseshoe Bat
(Rhinoloplus ferrumequinum), Lesser horseshoe bat
(Rhinoloplus hipposideros) and Mediterranean horseshoe bat
(Rhinoloplus euryale). Other species of particular importance: the Iberian Shrew
(Sorex granarius), the European Pine Marten (Martes martes), the Wildcat
(Felis silvestris), the Gold-Striped Salamander
(Chioglossa lusitanica) and the Snub-nosed viper (Vipera latastei
). A few of the local species are protected by the Bern Convention
. The Red squirrel
(Sciurus vulgaris) whose habitat is restricted and marginal in continental Portugal, is another species that is common to the Park. After four centuries of missing from the Portuguese territory, its population began to be recorded in 1985-1986, in Viana do Castelo. There were also registered sightings in Albergaria, Lamas de Mouro and Serra da Paneda, while comparable encounters in Spain were identified across the border. Roe Deer
, which are a symbol of the Park are encountered in prolific quantity, along the margins of the park, where they find shelter and food.
Meanwhile, other mammals, such as the population of Gray wolf
(Canis lupus) have collapsed with human encroachment, while the number of exemplars are limited. Along with the Golden Eagle
, the wolf was seen as a threat to livestock, were almost hunted to extinction, although protected by law since the end of the 20th century. Bear
s disappeared from the region in the 17th century and the extinct Pyrenean Ibex
, locally known as Gerês Goat, was last seen in the 1890s.
Worthy of mention are the Garrano
(or Minho horse), a breed of small equine species who were ancestors of the Galician pony
and Andalusian horse
, which mostly live in the wild, but are a gentle breed with no significant fear of humans. For a long time these horses permeated the farms of Vilarinho das Furnas (before it was inundated with the dam's construction), but later began to freely move between the Portuguese-Spanish border after 1979.
There are 147 avian species that are associated with the Peneda-Gerês park, especially along the Mourela region in the southern part of its frontier. In this region, although it might vary throughout the year (given climate and season), approximately 36 species make their nests in the area. Of particular note in this park are the: Hen harrier
(Circus cyaneus), European Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus), Common Snipe
(Gallinago gallinago), Red-backed Shrike
(Lanius collurio), Yellowhammer
(Emberiza citrinella), Garden Warbler
(Sylvia borin) and Whinchat
(Saxicola rubetra). For the Winchat (Saxicola rubetra), the area of Mourela is the unique nesting ground in Portugal, while the Red-backed Shrike and Yellowhammer is limited to Castro Lombeiro plateau and northern corners of the Park.
Also important to highlight is the Gold-Striped Salamander
(Chioglossa lusitanica) a species endemic to the northwest Iberian peninsula, typically associated with mountainous areas with elevated precipitation.
The waters of the park teem with various species, often called "Rios truteiros" (Trout Rivers) for the abundance of Trout
. Although stocks have diminished, the salmon
populations still spawns in the rivers of the park.
Species well represented in the biotopes of Penede-Gerês include:
These residents are concentrated primarily in various agglomerations: small nuclei separated from each other; an extension of buildings located along roadways; some isolated groups; constructions along agricultural roads in pasturelands; and three or more homes isolated by pastures. Consequently, there are six homogeneous zones:
Some of the villages in the high lands are located near the arable lands. Terrace
s, built to make better use of these scarce lands, and traditional houses, with granite walls and thatch
roofs, shape the landscape with an indelible, harmonious, human mark in some of the most isolated villages such as Pitões das Júnias and Ermida.
The primary sector, although the largest contributor, is subsistence at best: supported by an ageing (mostly female) population; individual parcels are small and over-subdivided; producers that support familial or local clients; a production that is primarily concentrated on personal consumption; poor commercial networks; and physical and social isolation, with limited educational supports. Between 60-70% of the production is supported by subsidies.
Industrial activities in the civil parishes within the Park are poorly diversified and support familial businesses. Civil construction, although one of the larger economic supporters, has little affect on local incomes, since a majority of the employed come from outside the region. Although there are a few larger operations (bread-making, construction and saw-milling/carpentry) most are small owner-operators, that support local consumption or occasional sales. Frequently, artesnal producers have disappeared, and have not been replaced by mass-produced or comparable vendors.
Similarly, tertiary activities are limited small operators; commonly poorly diversified, dominated by commercial establishments and focused on local consumption, they are operated by families and do not generate much in employment. Cafés and restaurants, are a good example of entrepreneurship, with many dotting the settlement landscape of the Park's limits, primarily in the area of Gerês. Other service sector activities are concentrated within the urbanized municipal seats and larger villages, with many of the more dynamic nuclei the centre of postal services, banks, posts for the G.N.R. or health centres.
, since the park's nature would not resist a massive flow of tourists. Accordingly there are six small camping
sites and several hiking
trails are marked, making it relatively easy to find many of the most interesting spots, such as the castros at Castro Laboreiro and Calcedónia and the monastery at Pitões das Júnias. The trail at Mézio as a particular concern in describing some of the local features.
Locations near the few major roads are the most visited. Many of them are related to the strong religiousness of the people in northern Portugal namely the shrine
s at Senhora da Peneda and São Bento da Porta Aberta. Others, such as Soajo and Lindoso, display small, traditional granaries built of granite, the espigueiros (from the Portuguese espiga, meaningspike).
Probably the two most known and visited features are the many waterfalls, mostly the one near the old frontier station at Portela do Homem, and the Vilarinho das Furnas village, whenever the Vilarinho das Furnas Dam is low enough.
Two domestic animals also deserve being noted. The Barrosão ox
, once used in agriculture, is nowadays endangered because it is losing its utility; as is also the Castro Laboreiro dog
, a hunting dog
.
National park
A national park is a reserve of natural, semi-natural, or developed land that a sovereign state declares or owns. Although individual nations designate their own national parks differently A national park is a reserve of natural, semi-natural, or developed land that a sovereign state declares or...
in Portugal
Portugal
Portugal , officially the Portuguese Republic is a country situated in southwestern Europe on the Iberian Peninsula. Portugal is the westernmost country of Europe, and is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the West and South and by Spain to the North and East. The Atlantic archipelagos of the...
(although many natural parks, protected landscapes, and reserves exist across the nation). It is located in the Norte region, in the northwest of Portugal, specifically in the districts of Viana do Castelo, Braga, and Vila Real.
The park was created on 8 May 1971 due to its national and international scientific interest, with the aim to protect the soil, water, flora, fauna, and landscape, while preserving its value to the existent human and natural resources. Education and tourism are also goals of the park.
History
Probably, because the Gerês mountains are a inhospitable place, the oldest signs of human presence date only from 6000 B.C. to 3000 B.C.; dolmenDolmen
A dolmen—also known as a portal tomb, portal grave, dolmain , cromlech , anta , Hünengrab/Hünenbett , Adamra , Ispun , Hunebed , dös , goindol or quoit—is a type of single-chamber megalithic tomb, usually consisting of...
s and other megalithic tombs remain interspersed within the region, including near Castro Laboreiro
Castro Laboreiro
Castro Laboreiro is a village in northern Portugal, one of the 18 parishes of the Melgaço munincipality, in the district of Viana do Castelo. It is in the mountain range of the Laboreiro. As of 2001 the area had 726 inhabitants...
and Mourela. Human activities consisted of animal husbandry and incipient agriculture, and archaeological evidence points to the beginning of decrease in forest cover.
The Roman Geira, a Roman road
Roman road
The Roman roads were a vital part of the development of the Roman state, from about 500 BC through the expansion during the Roman Republic and the Roman Empire. Roman roads enabled the Romans to move armies and trade goods and to communicate. The Roman road system spanned more than 400,000 km...
, crosses the region, which formerly connected the Roman civitas of Asturgia and Braccara Augusta
Braga
Braga , a city in the Braga Municipality in northwestern Portugal, is the capital of the Braga District, the oldest archdiocese and the third major city of the country. Braga is the oldest Portuguese city and one of the oldest Christian cities in the World...
. Long stretches of the road, along the Homem River are still preserved, along with several Roman bridge
Roman bridge
Roman bridges, built by ancient Romans, were the first large and lasting bridges built. Roman bridges were built with stone and had the arch as its basic structure....
s and numerous millenarium markers. The Germanic tribe of the Buri
Buri (Germanic tribe)
The Buri were a Germanic tribe mentioned in the Germania of Tacitus, where they initially "close the back" of the Marcomanni and Quadi of Bohemia and Moravia. It is said that their speech and customs were like those of the Suebi...
accompanied the Suebi
Suebi
The Suebi or Suevi were a group of Germanic peoples who were first mentioned by Julius Caesar in connection with Ariovistus' campaign, c...
in their invasion of the Iberian Peninsula
Iberian Peninsula
The Iberian Peninsula , sometimes called Iberia, is located in the extreme southwest of Europe and includes the modern-day sovereign states of Spain, Portugal and Andorra, as well as the British Overseas Territory of Gibraltar...
and establishment in Gallaecia
Gallaecia
Gallaecia or Callaecia, also known as Hispania Gallaecia, was the name of a Roman province and an early Mediaeval kingdom that comprised a territory in the north-west of Hispania...
(modern northernPortugal
Portugal
Portugal , officially the Portuguese Republic is a country situated in southwestern Europe on the Iberian Peninsula. Portugal is the westernmost country of Europe, and is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the West and South and by Spain to the North and East. The Atlantic archipelagos of the...
and Galicia). The Buri settled in the region between the Cávado
Cávado River
The Cávado River is a river located in north Portugal.It has its source in Serra do Larouco at 1520 meters. It runs 135 km from Gouveia to its mouth into the Atlantic Ocean next to the city of Esposende...
and Homem Rivers, in the area later known as Terras de Bouro (Land of the Buri). The move from the terraced cliffs and slopes to the lowland river valleys brought-on a patterned of new deforestation.
The reoccupation of mountain areas started in the 12th century, intensifying the 16th century with the introduction of maize, bean and potato from the Americas. Agricultural fields occupied former pastures, and these were displaced to more elevated areas resulting in a mosaic of fields, pastures and forests.
The reforestation of uncultivated lands, imposed by the government in 1935, reduced the available pastures, and contributed to a rural exodus that continued after the 1950s. Yet, it was still common practice for the residents of mountain communities to spend part of the year in two locations, primarily near Castro Laboreiro
Castro Laboreiro
Castro Laboreiro is a village in northern Portugal, one of the 18 parishes of the Melgaço munincipality, in the district of Viana do Castelo. It is in the mountain range of the Laboreiro. As of 2001 the area had 726 inhabitants...
. From about Easter
Easter
Easter is the central feast in the Christian liturgical year. According to the Canonical gospels, Jesus rose from the dead on the third day after his crucifixion. His resurrection is celebrated on Easter Day or Easter Sunday...
to about Christmas
Christmas
Christmas or Christmas Day is an annual holiday generally celebrated on December 25 by billions of people around the world. It is a Christian feast that commemorates the birth of Jesus Christ, liturgically closing the Advent season and initiating the season of Christmastide, which lasts twelve days...
, residents would live in homes above 1,000 m above sea level, known as branda (from the Portuguese brando, meaning mild or gentle). In the remaining part of the year, these inhabitants would occupy homes in the river valley, known as inverneira (from the Portuguese Inverno, meaning winter).
In 1970, the village of Vilarinho das Furnas
Vilarinho da Furna
Vilarinho da Furna is a village that was submerged in 1972 by the filling of the reservoir with the same name. It is located on the River Homem up to Ribeira do Eido, in the municipality of Terras de Bouro in the Braga district, in the Minho region of northern Portugal...
was flooded by the Vilarinho das Furnas dam on the Homem River. During years with low rainfall, the village ruins stands above the water, attracting thousands of tourists.
The creation of the National Park (completed under decree no. 187/71, 8 May 1971) envisioned a planning area of mountainous spaces, in order to conserve the environment, while permitting human and natural resource activities, which would include educational, touristic and scientific projects. At heart is the conservation of soils, water, flora and fauna, in addition to the preservation of landscapes within the vast mountainous region in the northwest of Portugal.
In 1997, Peneda-Gerês was included in the Natura 2000
Natura 2000
Natura 2000 is an ecological network of protected areas in the territory of the European Union.-Origins:In May 1992, the governments of the European Communities adopted legislation designed to protect the most seriously threatened habitats and species across Europe. This legislation is called the...
network, and in 1999, designated a Special Protection Area for Wild Birds. Moreover it also encompasses an important area of natural forest, that integrates the European Network of Biogenetic Reserves, and is recognized as a National Park by the International Union for Conservation of Nature. In 2007, it was accepted in the PAN Parks
PAN Parks
PAN Parks works to protect Europe's wilderness, the continent's most undisturbed areas of nature.PAN Parks, the only European-wide organisation focusing on the protection of wilderness areas, applies an approach combining wilderness protection and sustainable tourism development.The organisation...
network that certifies the quality protected areas, according to rigorous criteria of nature conservation, cultural services and sustainability.
Geography
The Peneda-Gerês National Park is located in the northwest of Portugal, extending through the municipalities of Melgaço, Arcos de Valdevez and Ponte da Barca (in the district of Viana do Castelo), Terras de Bouro (district of BragaBraga (district)
The district of Braga is a district in the northwest of Portugal. The district capital is the city of Braga, and it is bordered by the district of Viana do Castelo in the north, Vila Real in the east, and Porto in the south...
), and Montalegre (district Villa Real). The park includes an area of 702.90 km2, of which 52.75 km2 are public lands
Public property
Public property is property, which is dedicated to the use of the public. It is a subset of state property. The term may be used either to describe the use to which the property is put, or to describe the character of its ownership...
, 194.38 km2 are private property
Private property
Private property is the right of persons and firms to obtain, own, control, employ, dispose of, and bequeath land, capital, and other forms of property. Private property is distinguishable from public property, which refers to assets owned by a state, community or government rather than by...
and the remaining 455.77 km2 are commons.
Physical geography
The park is a vast amphitheatre-shaped space sculpted during the Variscan orogenyVariscan orogeny
The Variscan orogeny is a geologic mountain-building event caused by Late Paleozoic continental collision between Euramerica and Gondwana to form the supercontinent of Pangaea.-Naming:...
by geological forces, wind and water, and extends from the Castro Laboreiro to the Mourela plateaus, encompassing the Serra da Peneda, Serra do Soajo, Serra Amarela and the Serra do Gerês. These form a barrier between the ocean plain
Plain
In geography, a plain is land with relatively low relief, that is flat or gently rolling. Prairies and steppes are types of plains, and the archetype for a plain is often thought of as a grassland, but plains in their natural state may also be covered in shrublands, woodland and forest, or...
s to its west and the plateaus in the east. The highest peaks are Penedes (1340 m), Soajo (1430 m), Amarelo (1350 m), Gerês (1545 m) and Altar dos Cabrões (1,538 m) located on the border with Spain
Spain
Spain , officially the Kingdom of Spain languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Spain's official name is as follows:;;;;;;), is a country and member state of the European Union located in southwestern Europe on the Iberian Peninsula...
, continuing into this territory as part of the Serra do Xurés
Baixa Limia - Serra do Xurés
Baixa Limia - Serra do Xurés is a natural park in Galicia, Spain. The park was designated in 1993. Serra do Xurés is the Galician name for a range of mountains which straddle the border between Spain and Portugal: the Portuguese variant is Gerês and the Castilian variant is Xures .-International...
.
The granitic rocks that dominate this shield were deposited during the process of continental collision that brought together the lower Iberian peninsula with Europe, between 380 million and 275 million years; the oldest of them, at Amarela, date from 310 million years ago. The most extensive of the granitic rocks that occur within the park are the Penede-Gerês pluton
Pluton
A pluton in geology is a body of intrusive igneous rock that crystallized from magma slowly cooling below the surface of the Earth. Plutons include batholiths, dikes, sills, laccoliths, lopoliths, and other igneous bodies...
which is an exposed relief that became exposed around 290-296 Ma by the Gerês-Lovios fault. Sedimentary layers laid down between 435 and 408 Ma (Silurian
Silurian
The Silurian is a geologic period and system that extends from the end of the Ordovician Period, about 443.7 ± 1.5 Mya , to the beginning of the Devonian Period, about 416.0 ± 2.8 Mya . As with other geologic periods, the rock beds that define the period's start and end are well identified, but the...
epoch) were deformed and metamorphosed into schist
Schist
The schists constitute a group of medium-grade metamorphic rocks, chiefly notable for the preponderance of lamellar minerals such as micas, chlorite, talc, hornblende, graphite, and others. Quartz often occurs in drawn-out grains to such an extent that a particular form called quartz schist is...
s, greywacke
Greywacke
Greywacke or Graywacke is a variety of sandstone generally characterized by its hardness, dark color, and poorly sorted angular grains of quartz, feldspar, and small rock fragments or lithic fragments set in a compact, clay-fine matrix. It is a texturally immature sedimentary rock generally found...
s and quartzite
Quartzite
Quartzite is a hard metamorphic rock which was originally sandstone. Sandstone is converted into quartzite through heating and pressure usually related to tectonic compression within orogenic belts. Pure quartzite is usually white to gray, though quartzites often occur in various shades of pink...
s (such as in the area of Castro Laboreiro). Also, dyke
Dike (geology)
A dike or dyke in geology is a type of sheet intrusion referring to any geologic body that cuts discordantly across* planar wall rock structures, such as bedding or foliation...
s and sill
Sill (geology)
In geology, a sill is a tabular sheet intrusion that has intruded between older layers of sedimentary rock, beds of volcanic lava or tuff, or even along the direction of foliation in metamorphic rock. The term sill is synonymous with concordant intrusive sheet...
s formed from quartz and aplite-pegmatites were mineralized resulting in tin, tungsten, molybdenum and gold (which would become the focus of mining in the human era, at the now-closed mines of Carris and Borrageiro). Generally, the lithological structures can be divided into three layers:
- Gerês granite structures - includes Gerês, Paufito, Carris, Borrageiro and Tieiras, and is composed of special mineralogical and geochemical intrusions that occurred through third phase of Hercynian faults, caused by a differentiating of basic magmas. The terrain in these regions include a vigorous relief, a rounded granite petrography, such as in the Serra da Peneda;
- older granite structures - includes a very heterogeneous group of Mezio, Soajo, Serra Amarela, Linhoso, Parada, Tourém, Pedrada e Ermida, Germil, Sezelhe and Frades, with a texture and composition that quite variable, from the crustal fusion of various materials with surface contamination;
- sedimentary formations - includes sediments deposited in Silurian waters and metamorphosed during the DevonianDevonianThe Devonian is a geologic period and system of the Paleozoic Era spanning from the end of the Silurian Period, about 416.0 ± 2.8 Mya , to the beginning of the Carboniferous Period, about 359.2 ± 2.5 Mya...
period, as well as carbon and more recent sediments, resulting during the QuaternaryQuaternaryThe Quaternary Period is the most recent of the three periods of the Cenozoic Era in the geologic time scale of the ICS. It follows the Neogene Period, spanning 2.588 ± 0.005 million years ago to the present...
. The first group includes principally schistSchistThe schists constitute a group of medium-grade metamorphic rocks, chiefly notable for the preponderance of lamellar minerals such as micas, chlorite, talc, hornblende, graphite, and others. Quartz often occurs in drawn-out grains to such an extent that a particular form called quartz schist is...
s and quartzQuartzQuartz is the second-most-abundant mineral in the Earth's continental crust, after feldspar. It is made up of a continuous framework of SiO4 silicon–oxygen tetrahedra, with each oxygen being shared between two tetrahedra, giving an overall formula SiO2. There are many different varieties of quartz,...
-feldsparFeldsparFeldspars are a group of rock-forming tectosilicate minerals which make up as much as 60% of the Earth's crust....
, greywackeGreywackeGreywacke or Graywacke is a variety of sandstone generally characterized by its hardness, dark color, and poorly sorted angular grains of quartz, feldspar, and small rock fragments or lithic fragments set in a compact, clay-fine matrix. It is a texturally immature sedimentary rock generally found...
s and quartziteQuartziteQuartzite is a hard metamorphic rock which was originally sandstone. Sandstone is converted into quartzite through heating and pressure usually related to tectonic compression within orogenic belts. Pure quartzite is usually white to gray, though quartzites often occur in various shades of pink...
s with meta-crystals, such as AndalusiteAndalusiteAndalusite is an aluminium nesosilicate mineral with the chemical formula Al2SiO5.The variety chiastolite commonly contains dark inclusions of carbon or clay which form a checker-board pattern when shown in cross-section....
, CordieriteCordieriteCordierite or iolite is a magnesium iron aluminium cyclosilicate. Iron is almost always present and a solid solution exists between Mg-rich cordierite and Fe-rich sekaninaite with a series formula: 2 to 2...
and SillimaniteSillimaniteSillimanite is an alumino-silicate mineral with the chemical formula Al2SiO5. Sillimanite is named after the American chemist Benjamin Silliman . It was first described in 1824 for an occurrence in Chester, Middlesex County, Connecticut, USA....
. These sedminentary deposits are prominently preserved in two linear patches: Vale das Antas and Louriça, near Castro Laboreiro, between two granite strucutres. The most recent geological formations are those created by fluvial, torrential and glacial deposits.
During the Pleistocene (approximately 1.8 to 0.001 Ma ago) climatic variations resulted in an extension of glacial fields to the mid-latitudes. While there are no remnants of glaciers now, their Ice Age
Ice age
An ice age or, more precisely, glacial age, is a generic geological period of long-term reduction in the temperature of the Earth's surface and atmosphere, resulting in the presence or expansion of continental ice sheets, polar ice sheets and alpine glaciers...
products (U-shaped valleys, moraines, glacial deposits, polished and natural granite surfaces) are identified in the Serra da Peneda, Serra do Soajo and Serra do Gerês mountain ranges. The principal watersheds that cross the park are those of the Minho
Minho River
The Minho or Miño is the longest river in Galicia, Spain, with an extension of 340 km.Both names come from Latin Minius...
(occupying 2% of the Park), Lima (47.8%) and Cávado
Cávado River
The Cávado River is a river located in north Portugal.It has its source in Serra do Larouco at 1520 meters. It runs 135 km from Gouveia to its mouth into the Atlantic Ocean next to the city of Esposende...
(50.2%), with brooks and waterfalls common on many of the mountain slopes, in addition to several secondary tributaries (such as the Homem, Rabagão, Castro Laboreiro, and Arado rivers). The Cávado cuts across the PNPG east to west, while the Lima serves the southern limits of the districts of Vila Real and Braga. Fractures in the landscape have confined the rivers to deep, straight valleys and are visible in the younger granite outcrops visible in the uncovered higher altitudes. Owing to the number tributaries, the construction of hydroelectrical dams has been undertaken to generate electricity across six locations: Alto Rabagão, Paradela, Caniçada, Vilarinho da Furna
Vilarinho da Furna
Vilarinho da Furna is a village that was submerged in 1972 by the filling of the reservoir with the same name. It is located on the River Homem up to Ribeira do Eido, in the municipality of Terras de Bouro in the Braga district, in the Minho region of northern Portugal...
, Touvedo and Lindoso.
Soils within the elevated terrains and inclined spaces are non-existent, while the valleys are rich and deep, deposited and transported by pluvial action. These strata are textured, permeable, easily worked, albeit with a weak consistency, and marked by the peculiarities of local agriculture. The incorporation of biomass and elevated precipitation, along with the low Autumn-Winter temperatures give an origin to the alterations in pH levels. The elevated levels of incompletely decomposed organic material, low in phosphorus and intermittently low/high in potassium, are subject of alluvial deposition.
Climate
The region of the PNPG falls within a transitional zone between the Atlantic and Mediterranean environments, and is influenced by various climatic systems: Atlantic, Mediterranean and Continental. Its climate is greatly influenced by the topography; the mountains exert a barrier effect to the passage of hot and wet air masses coming from the Atlantic Ocean, resulting in elevated precipitation throughout the year.It falls in a part of Portugal (and Europe) that is affected by extreme rainfall, obtaining precipitation levels of 3000 millimetres per year, with more than 130 rainy days per year.
Average annual temperatures range from 17°C to 20°C, with some variation; the high lands have an average temperature of about 10°C, ranging from 4 to 14 °C, while areas in the valleys (such as the Homem and Cávado river valleys) have milder climates, with temperatures ranging from 8 to 20 °C (with an average of 14 °C).
Consequently, the area is prone to various micro-climates, affected by variations in altitude, topographic characteristics, human occupation, different exposures and thermal variation. Similarly, the variation has resulted in a variation in vegetation characteristic of Mediterranean, Euro-Siberian and Alpine environments.
Biome
Rivas-Martinez defined that the foothills of the Serra da Gerês along with the foothills of the Serra da Cabreira (lands below the Tâmega, Ave and Cávado watersheds) constitute the frontier between the Euro-Siberian and Mediterranean regions, that conferes on the Penede-Gerês a floral and phytogeographic importance.Flora
Biomass coverage of the Serra do Gerês, Serra Amarela, Serra do Peneda and Serra do Soajo, as well as the Mourela and Castro Laboreiro plateaus, are dominated by four distinct biomes: oak forest, shrubbery, marshes and riparian vegatation.The floristic diversity includes 823 vascular taxa that occur in 128 types of natural vegetation. The oak forests which are common throughout the park, are specifically concentrated in Ramiscal, Peneda, Gerês and Beredo river valleys. These forested are dominated by an alliance between the Pyrenean (Quercus pyrenaica) and English (Quercus robur) oaks, which themselves are differentiated among the lower altitudes and exposed flanks (the Rusceto-Quercetum roboris) and those oaks with Atlantic characteristics (Myretillo-Quercetum roboris). The first association are commonly found with English oak (Quercus rober), Cork oak (Quercus suber), Butcher's broom (Ruscus aculeatus), Maple (Acer pseudoplatanus) and Portuguese laurel (Prunus lusitanica
Prunus lusitanica
Prunus lusitanica, with common name Portugal laurel, is a species of cherry, native to southwestern France, Spain, Portugal, Morocco, and Macaronesia .-Distribution:...
), while the second association unites the English and Pyrenean oaks with Bilberry
Bilberry
Bilberry is any of several species of low-growing shrubs in the genus Vaccinium , bearing edible berries. The species most often referred to is Vaccinium myrtillus L., but there are several other closely related species....
(Vaccinium myrtillus
Vaccinium myrtillus
Vaccinium myrtillus is an almost Holarctic species of shrub with edible fruit, usually simply referred to as "bilberry" or "whortleberry". It is more precidely called Common Bilberry or Blue Whortleberry, to distinguish it from its Vaccinium relatives...
), Strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) and European holly (Ilex aquifolium). In upper altitudes there are patches of English oak that enter into their own association (Holco-Quercetum pyrenacia), which is integrated into another group (Quericon robri-patraea). These oaks have been, over the course of human settlement, the object of intense use, resulting in a general degradation of the spaces into nothing more than shrubbery.
The bush and shrublands, which characterize the remainder of the spaces (74% of the park), are dominated by Dwarf (Ulex minor
Ulex minor
Ulex minor, Dwarf Furze or Dwarf Gorse is an evergreen dwarf shrub in the family Fabaceae, native to eastern England, France, Spain and Portugal. It is restricted to lowland heathland habitats....
) and European
Common Gorse
Ulex europaeus, gorse, common gorse, furze or whin is an evergreen shrub in the family Fabaceae, native to western Europe from the northerly point of the United Kingdom south to Portugal, and from the westerly point of the Republic of Ireland east to Galicia in Poland and Ukraine.-Description:It...
(Ulex europaeus)Gorse
Gorse
Gorse, furze, furse or whin is a genus of about 20 plant species of thorny evergreen shrubs in the subfamily Faboideae of the pea family Fabaceae, native to western Europe and northwest Africa, with the majority of species in Iberia.Gorse is closely related to the brooms, and like them, has green...
and Heather
Erica
Erica ,the heaths or heathers, is a genus of approximately 860 species of flowering plants in the family Ericaceae. The English common names "heath" and "heather" are shared by some closely related genera of similar appearance....
(Erica umbellata and Calluna vulgaris), with a mixtures of Common Juniper (Juniperus communis
Juniperus communis
Juniperus communis, the Common Juniper, is a species in the genus Juniperus, in the family Cupressaceae. It has the largest range of any woody plant, throughout the cool temperate Northern Hemisphere from the Arctic south in mountains to around 30°N latitude in North America, Europe and Asia.-...
), Southern Heather (Erica australis) in the upper altitudes, while lower altitude bush includes Cross-leaved heather (Erica tetralix
Erica tetralix
Erica tetralix is a species of heather found in Atlantic areas of Europe, from southern Portugal to central Norway, as well as a number of boggy regions further from the coast in Central Europe. In bogs, wet heaths and damp coniferous woodland, Erica tetralix can become a dominant part of the flora...
), Dwarf Gorse (Ulex minor), Dorest heath (Erica ciliaris
Erica ciliaris
Erica ciliaris is a species of heather, known in the British Isles as Dorset heath. It grows to , and has leaves long, with long, glandular hairs. The flowers are long, bright pink, and arranged in long racemes....
), Common sundew (Drosera rotundifolia
Drosera rotundifolia
Drosera rotundifolia is a species of sundew, a carnivorous plant often found in bogs, marshes and fens...
), Pale butterwort (Pinguicula lusitanica
Pinguicula lusitanica
Pinguicula lusitanica, commonly known as the Pale Butterwort, is a small butterwort that grows wild in acidic peat bog areas along coastal western Europe from western Scotland and Ireland south through western England and western France to Iberia, and Morocco in northwestern Africa.It usually...
), Marsh Violet (Viola palustris
Viola palustris
Viola palustris is a perennial forb of the genus Viola. It inhabits moist meadows, marshes, and streambanks in northern parts of North America and Eurasia....
) and Purple Moor Grass (Molinia caerulea).
Riparian and marshlands along the river courses are also sites of rare species of Chain ferns (Woodwardia radicans), Willow (Salix repens), Downy Birch (Betula pubescens), Deciduous shrubs (Spiraea hypericifolia), Portuguese Enchanter's nightshade
Circaea
The genus Circaea contains 7-10 species of flowering plants, known as Enchanter's nightshade. They are woodland plants occurring throughout the temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere. Two species are widespread, Broad-leaved Enchanter's Nightshade and Alpine Enchanter's Nightshade...
(Circaea lusitanica) and Angelica herbs (Angelica laevis).
There are 627 flora species identified by Serra and Carvalho (1989) as under pressure and considered endangered, which included two medicinal plants: Tutsan (Hypericum androsaemum
Hypericum androsaemum
Hypericum androsaemum, commonly known as tutsan, is a plant in the genus Hypericum native to open woods and hillsides in Eurasia. It is a perennial shrub reaching up to 1.5 m in height.-Common name:...
) and Sundew (Drosera rotundifolia
Drosera rotundifolia
Drosera rotundifolia is a species of sundew, a carnivorous plant often found in bogs, marshes and fens...
). Based on the protection list of botanical species, and UICN categories: 18 are considered in risk of extinction, 17 are vulnerable and one is rare. They also identified two species as extinct within the Park boundaries: a Geranium (Geranium lanuginosum) and Fragrant orchid (Gymnadenia conopsea). There are three endemic species. Those factors that have been identified that threaten these habitats include: natural and manmade fires, use of forest for fuel wood and agricultural use of habitats.
Fauna
University of Porto
The University of Porto is a Portuguese public university located in Porto, and founded 22 March 1911. It is the largest Portuguese university by number of enrolled students and has one of the most noted research outputs in Portugal...
and University of Minho
University of Minho
The University of Minho is a public university in Portugal, divided in the following spaces:* Largo do Paço , in Braga* Campus of Gualtar, in Braga* Superior School of Nursing, in Braga...
have concentrated on a few mammals (Pyrenean Desman
Pyrenean Desman
The Pyrenean Desman is a small semi-aquatic mammal that lives in the Pyrenees to the Iberian peninsula. The Pyrenean Desman is in the monotypic genus Galemys. The Pyrenean Desman lives in mountain streams....
, European Otter
European Otter
The European Otter , also known as the Eurasian otter, Eurasian river otter, common otter and Old World otter, is a European and Asian member of the Lutrinae or otter subfamily, and is typical of freshwater otters....
, Roe Deer
Roe Deer
The European Roe Deer , also known as the Western Roe Deer, chevreuil or just Roe Deer, is a Eurasian species of deer. It is relatively small, reddish and grey-brown, and well-adapted to cold environments. Roe Deer are widespread in Western Europe, from the Mediterranean to Scandinavia, and from...
, and Wild boar), reptiles and fish. These studies looked into the numbers of species and factors influencing their habitats.
Approximately 235 vertebrate species were identified within the boundaries of the Park, of which 200 are threatened or under protection. These include three species of bat under pressure (of the eight that exist): Greater Horseshoe Bat
Greater Horseshoe Bat
The Greater Horseshoe Bat is a European bat of the Rhinolophus genus. Its distribution covers Europe, Africa, South Asia and Australia. It is the largest of the European Horseshoe Bats and is thus easily distinguished from other species...
(Rhinoloplus ferrumequinum), Lesser horseshoe bat
Lesser horseshoe bat
The Lesser Horseshoe Bat , is a type of European bat related to but smaller than its cousin, the Greater Horseshoe Bat...
(Rhinoloplus hipposideros) and Mediterranean horseshoe bat
Mediterranean Horseshoe Bat
The Mediterranean Horseshoe Bat is a species of bat in the Rhinolophidae family. It is found in the Mediterranean region and balkan peninsula, as well as parts of Italy.-Physical characteristics:...
(Rhinoloplus euryale). Other species of particular importance: the Iberian Shrew
Iberian Shrew
The Iberian Shrew or Lagranja Shrew is a species of mammal in the Soricidae family. It is found in Portugal and Spain.-References:* Insectivore Specialist Group 1996. . Downloaded 30 July 2007....
(Sorex granarius), the European Pine Marten (Martes martes), the Wildcat
Wildcat
Wildcat is a small felid native to Europe, the western part of Asia, and Africa.-Animals:Wildcat may also refer to members of the genus Lynx:...
(Felis silvestris), the Gold-Striped Salamander
Gold-Striped Salamander
The Gold-Striped Salamander, Golden-Striped Salamander, Saramaganta or Píntega Rabilonga is a species of salamander in the Salamandridae family...
(Chioglossa lusitanica) and the Snub-nosed viper (Vipera latastei
Vipera latastei
Vipera latastei is a venomous viper species found in extreme southwestern Europe and northwestern Africa. Two subspecies are currently recognized, including the nominate subspecies described here.-Description:...
). A few of the local species are protected by the Bern Convention
Convention on the Conservation of European Wildlife and Natural Habitats
The Bern Convention on the Conservation of European Wildlife and Natural Habitats 1979, also known as the Bern Convention , came into force on June 1, 1982....
. The Red squirrel
Red Squirrel
The red squirrel or Eurasian red squirrel is a species of tree squirrel in the genus Sciurus common throughout Eurasia...
(Sciurus vulgaris) whose habitat is restricted and marginal in continental Portugal, is another species that is common to the Park. After four centuries of missing from the Portuguese territory, its population began to be recorded in 1985-1986, in Viana do Castelo. There were also registered sightings in Albergaria, Lamas de Mouro and Serra da Paneda, while comparable encounters in Spain were identified across the border. Roe Deer
Roe Deer
The European Roe Deer , also known as the Western Roe Deer, chevreuil or just Roe Deer, is a Eurasian species of deer. It is relatively small, reddish and grey-brown, and well-adapted to cold environments. Roe Deer are widespread in Western Europe, from the Mediterranean to Scandinavia, and from...
, which are a symbol of the Park are encountered in prolific quantity, along the margins of the park, where they find shelter and food.
Meanwhile, other mammals, such as the population of Gray wolf
Gray Wolf
The gray wolf , also known as the wolf, is the largest extant wild member of the Canidae family...
(Canis lupus) have collapsed with human encroachment, while the number of exemplars are limited. Along with the Golden Eagle
Golden Eagle
The Golden Eagle is one of the best known birds of prey in the Northern Hemisphere. Like all eagles, it belongs to the family Accipitridae. Once widespread across the Holarctic, it has disappeared from many of the more heavily populated areas...
, the wolf was seen as a threat to livestock, were almost hunted to extinction, although protected by law since the end of the 20th century. Bear
Bear
Bears are mammals of the family Ursidae. Bears are classified as caniforms, or doglike carnivorans, with the pinnipeds being their closest living relatives. Although there are only eight living species of bear, they are widespread, appearing in a wide variety of habitats throughout the Northern...
s disappeared from the region in the 17th century and the extinct Pyrenean Ibex
Pyrenean Ibex
The Pyrenean Ibex is an ibex, one of the two extinct subspecies of Spanish Ibex. The subspecies once ranged across the Pyrenees in France and Spain and the surrounding area, including the Basque Country, Navarre, north Aragon and north Catalonia. A few hundred years ago they were numerous, but by...
, locally known as Gerês Goat, was last seen in the 1890s.
Worthy of mention are the Garrano
Garrano
The Garrano is an ancient breed of horse from Galicia and northern Portugal, mainly used as a pack horse, for riding, and for light farm work.-Breed history:...
(or Minho horse), a breed of small equine species who were ancestors of the Galician pony
Galician pony
The Galician pony , is a breed of pony developed in Galicia .It has had an influence on the Galiceno breed in Mexico and, allegedly, on the Mustang. It is thought to have developed partly from a mix of Celtic horses, Roman horses and horses brought to Galicia by the Swabians. The ponies are hardy...
and Andalusian horse
Andalusian horse
The Andalusian, also known as the Pure Spanish Horse or PRE , is a horse breed developed in the Iberian Peninsula. Its ancestors have been present on the Iberian Peninsula for thousands of years. The Andalusian has been recognized as an individual breed since the 15th century, and its conformation...
, which mostly live in the wild, but are a gentle breed with no significant fear of humans. For a long time these horses permeated the farms of Vilarinho das Furnas (before it was inundated with the dam's construction), but later began to freely move between the Portuguese-Spanish border after 1979.
There are 147 avian species that are associated with the Peneda-Gerês park, especially along the Mourela region in the southern part of its frontier. In this region, although it might vary throughout the year (given climate and season), approximately 36 species make their nests in the area. Of particular note in this park are the: Hen harrier
Hen Harrier
The Hen Harrier or Northern Harrier is a bird of prey. It breeds throughout the northern parts of the northern hemisphere in Canada and the northernmost USA, and in northern Eurasia. This species is polytypic, with two subspecies. Marsh Hawk is a historical name for the American form.It migrates...
(Circus cyaneus), European Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus), Common Snipe
Common Snipe
The Common Snipe is a small, stocky wader native to the Old World. The breeding habitat is marshes, bogs, tundra and wet meadows throughout northern Europe and northern Asia...
(Gallinago gallinago), Red-backed Shrike
Red-backed Shrike
The Red-backed Shrike is a carnivorous passerine bird and member of the shrike family Laniidae.English common names include 'Wariangle' and 'worrier'.-Description:...
(Lanius collurio), Yellowhammer
Yellowhammer
The Yellowhammer, Emberiza citrinella, is a passerine bird in the bunting family Emberizidae. It is common in all sorts of open areas with some scrub or trees and form small flocks in winter....
(Emberiza citrinella), Garden Warbler
Garden Warbler
The Garden Warbler, Sylvia borin, is a common and widespread typical warbler which breeds throughout northern and temperate Europe into western Asia. This small passerine bird is strongly migratory, and winters in central and southern Africa...
(Sylvia borin) and Whinchat
Whinchat
The Whinchat Saxicola rubetra is a small migratory passerine bird breeding in Europe and western Asia and wintering in Africa.Its scientific name means "small rock-dweller", in reference to its habitat...
(Saxicola rubetra). For the Winchat (Saxicola rubetra), the area of Mourela is the unique nesting ground in Portugal, while the Red-backed Shrike and Yellowhammer is limited to Castro Lombeiro plateau and northern corners of the Park.
Also important to highlight is the Gold-Striped Salamander
Gold-Striped Salamander
The Gold-Striped Salamander, Golden-Striped Salamander, Saramaganta or Píntega Rabilonga is a species of salamander in the Salamandridae family...
(Chioglossa lusitanica) a species endemic to the northwest Iberian peninsula, typically associated with mountainous areas with elevated precipitation.
The waters of the park teem with various species, often called "Rios truteiros" (Trout Rivers) for the abundance of Trout
Trout
Trout is the name for a number of species of freshwater and saltwater fish belonging to the Salmoninae subfamily of the family Salmonidae. Salmon belong to the same family as trout. Most salmon species spend almost all their lives in salt water...
. Although stocks have diminished, the salmon
Salmon
Salmon is the common name for several species of fish in the family Salmonidae. Several other fish in the same family are called trout; the difference is often said to be that salmon migrate and trout are resident, but this distinction does not strictly hold true...
populations still spawns in the rivers of the park.
Species well represented in the biotopes of Penede-Gerês include:
- Pyrenean DesmanPyrenean DesmanThe Pyrenean Desman is a small semi-aquatic mammal that lives in the Pyrenees to the Iberian peninsula. The Pyrenean Desman is in the monotypic genus Galemys. The Pyrenean Desman lives in mountain streams....
(Galemys pyrenaicus), commonly restricted to northern portions of the Iberian Peninsuala and French Pyranees; - European OtterEuropean OtterThe European Otter , also known as the Eurasian otter, Eurasian river otter, common otter and Old World otter, is a European and Asian member of the Lutrinae or otter subfamily, and is typical of freshwater otters....
(Lutra lutra), a carnivore well adapted to waters of the Park, but in decline throughout Europe, it inhabits the watercourses and uses the banks for shelter; - Iberian Emerald LizardIberian Emerald LizardThe Iberian Emerald Lizard or Schreiber's Green Lizard is a species of lizard in the Lacertidae family.It is found in Portugal and Spain....
(Lacerta schreiberi), endemic to the western portions of the Iberian peninsula, it inhabits mountainous river valleys, where it protected by vegetation; - Iberian FrogIberian FrogThe Iberian Frog or Rana Patilarga, Rana iberica, is a species of frog in the Ranidae family.It is found in Portugal and Spain. Its natural habitats are rivers, intermittent rivers, and swamps...
(Rana iberica), common to northwestern Iberia, Portugal and mountainous lands
Ecoregions/Protected areas
The 1971 classification of Peneda-Gerês as a National Park came from a group of rules/requirements established to allow: the prudent use of the park's resources, preservation of existing flora and fauna species, allowing for the continued cohabitation, while providing an environment for scientific, educational and touristic investigation. These specified:- Areas of Natural Environments , these were defined in 1991 into three zones:
- Integrated reserves, to preserve habitats and natural elements that were unique, vulnerable, rare, threatened or representative;
- Partial reserves, to allow conservation and environmental interpretation;
- Complimentary areas, a transition zones between natural and rural environments.
- Freshwater Environments , to provide means of management and conservation that would allow the constant preservation of existing water-based environments. The park is located within mountainous granite geomorphology, characterized by narrow watercourses, irregular inclines and unmineralized, highly oxygenated, semi-acidic, cold waters, which are the base of the ecosystem. Its importance, therefore, resulted in three-level classification of freshwater environments characterized by the natural resources that existed, and those activities which were permitted in each environment.
- Sites of Orinthological Interest , areas identified for avian species conservation were prepared by Neves et al.
Human geography
Although there has been variable growth throughout the Norte region, there has been a general population decrease in those administrative units that fell within the Penede-Gerês National Park (1981–1991), in the municipalities of Melgaço (-16.8%), Arcos de Valdevez (-13.4%), Ponte da Barca(-6.1%), Terras de Bouro (-7.2%), and Montalegre (-20.3%). There was a population of 9,099 according to the 1991 census, a 16% decrease from the 10,849 registered in 1981. There are no positive-negative variations between civil parishes; of those civil parishes that fell within the PNPG authority, their populations dropped from from 0.8% (Vilar da Veiga) to 38.6% (Sezelhe).These residents are concentrated primarily in various agglomerations: small nuclei separated from each other; an extension of buildings located along roadways; some isolated groups; constructions along agricultural roads in pasturelands; and three or more homes isolated by pastures. Consequently, there are six homogeneous zones:
- Castro Laboreiro and Rio Laboreiro Valley - consisting of small agglomerations separated by short distances. It was still common practice for the residents of mountain communities to spend part of the year in two locations, primarily near Castro LaboreiroCastro LaboreiroCastro Laboreiro is a village in northern Portugal, one of the 18 parishes of the Melgaço munincipality, in the district of Viana do Castelo. It is in the mountain range of the Laboreiro. As of 2001 the area had 726 inhabitants...
. From about EasterEasterEaster is the central feast in the Christian liturgical year. According to the Canonical gospels, Jesus rose from the dead on the third day after his crucifixion. His resurrection is celebrated on Easter Day or Easter Sunday...
to about ChristmasChristmasChristmas or Christmas Day is an annual holiday generally celebrated on December 25 by billions of people around the world. It is a Christian feast that commemorates the birth of Jesus Christ, liturgically closing the Advent season and initiating the season of Christmastide, which lasts twelve days...
, residents would live in homes above 1,000 m above sea level, known as branda (from the Portuguese brando, meaning mild or gentle). In the remaining part of the year, these inhabitants would occupy homes in the river valley, known as inverneira (from the Portuguese Inverno, meaning winter); - Serras da Peneda and Serras do Soajo - small pastoral agglomerations, with different summer and winter residences;
- Lima Valley and Serra Amarela - where the Lima Valley consists of two or more agglomerations connected by lines of residences between them, while in the Serra Amarela populations are concentrated in isolated pockets;
- Gerês Valley - development of tourism, around the Caniçada Dam and Thermal baths, resulted in uncontrolled re-construction, re-modelling and expansion of existing residences, although there already existed a tendency for expansion along the avenues and accessways along the valley;
- Cabril-Gerês - steep areas along the River Cávado and Salamonde Dam, where buildings are concentrated along the accessways, and Cabril River, with pasturelands located between agglomerations;
- Mourela/Barroso Plateau - extending south, southeast and southwest, the plateau is a series of agglomerations, connected by avenues of built-up occupation. The expansion of Várzea, owing to the construction of the Paradela Dam, resulted in the reduction of cultivatable lands, meadows and marshes.
Some of the villages in the high lands are located near the arable lands. Terrace
Terrace (agriculture)
Terraces are used in farming to cultivate sloped land. Graduated terrace steps are commonly used to farm on hilly or mountainous terrain. Terraced fields decrease erosion and surface runoff, and are effective for growing crops requiring much water, such as rice...
s, built to make better use of these scarce lands, and traditional houses, with granite walls and thatch
Thatching
Thatching is the craft of building a roof with dry vegetation such as straw, water reed, sedge , rushes, or heather, layering the vegetation so as to shed water away from the inner roof. It is a very old roofing method and has been used in both tropical and temperate climates...
roofs, shape the landscape with an indelible, harmonious, human mark in some of the most isolated villages such as Pitões das Júnias and Ermida.
Economy
The primary economic sector dominates the activities of residents that live within the park's territory. Although agricultural activity remains difficult, it still out-paces secondary and tertiary activities which, apart from the Terra de Bouro and Ponta da Barca, have been insignificant. The inaccessibility and diminished exterior investment potential, has concentrated those activities in the region primarily in the exploration of forestry, the support of hydro-electrical generation and tourism. But this too is limited; tourism is concentrated generally in the vicinity of Caldas do Gerês, hydro-electrical transmission has not effected the local economy, and along with forestry, has not seen an appreciable re-investment or re-captilization of wealth (with income generated transferred outside the local market).The primary sector, although the largest contributor, is subsistence at best: supported by an ageing (mostly female) population; individual parcels are small and over-subdivided; producers that support familial or local clients; a production that is primarily concentrated on personal consumption; poor commercial networks; and physical and social isolation, with limited educational supports. Between 60-70% of the production is supported by subsidies.
Industrial activities in the civil parishes within the Park are poorly diversified and support familial businesses. Civil construction, although one of the larger economic supporters, has little affect on local incomes, since a majority of the employed come from outside the region. Although there are a few larger operations (bread-making, construction and saw-milling/carpentry) most are small owner-operators, that support local consumption or occasional sales. Frequently, artesnal producers have disappeared, and have not been replaced by mass-produced or comparable vendors.
Similarly, tertiary activities are limited small operators; commonly poorly diversified, dominated by commercial establishments and focused on local consumption, they are operated by families and do not generate much in employment. Cafés and restaurants, are a good example of entrepreneurship, with many dotting the settlement landscape of the Park's limits, primarily in the area of Gerês. Other service sector activities are concentrated within the urbanized municipal seats and larger villages, with many of the more dynamic nuclei the centre of postal services, banks, posts for the G.N.R. or health centres.
Tourism
The Park tries to simultaneously encourage and control tourismTourism
Tourism is travel for recreational, leisure or business purposes. The World Tourism Organization defines tourists as people "traveling to and staying in places outside their usual environment for not more than one consecutive year for leisure, business and other purposes".Tourism has become a...
, since the park's nature would not resist a massive flow of tourists. Accordingly there are six small camping
Camping
Camping is an outdoor recreational activity. The participants leave urban areas, their home region, or civilization and enjoy nature while spending one or several nights outdoors, usually at a campsite. Camping may involve the use of a tent, caravan, motorhome, cabin, a primitive structure, or no...
sites and several hiking
Hiking
Hiking is an outdoor activity which consists of walking in natural environments, often in mountainous or other scenic terrain. People often hike on hiking trails. It is such a popular activity that there are numerous hiking organizations worldwide. The health benefits of different types of hiking...
trails are marked, making it relatively easy to find many of the most interesting spots, such as the castros at Castro Laboreiro and Calcedónia and the monastery at Pitões das Júnias. The trail at Mézio as a particular concern in describing some of the local features.
Locations near the few major roads are the most visited. Many of them are related to the strong religiousness of the people in northern Portugal namely the shrine
Shrine
A shrine is a holy or sacred place, which is dedicated to a specific deity, ancestor, hero, martyr, saint, daemon or similar figure of awe and respect, at which they are venerated or worshipped. Shrines often contain idols, relics, or other such objects associated with the figure being venerated....
s at Senhora da Peneda and São Bento da Porta Aberta. Others, such as Soajo and Lindoso, display small, traditional granaries built of granite, the espigueiros (from the Portuguese espiga, meaningspike).
Probably the two most known and visited features are the many waterfalls, mostly the one near the old frontier station at Portela do Homem, and the Vilarinho das Furnas village, whenever the Vilarinho das Furnas Dam is low enough.
Two domestic animals also deserve being noted. The Barrosão ox
Cattle
Cattle are the most common type of large domesticated ungulates. They are a prominent modern member of the subfamily Bovinae, are the most widespread species of the genus Bos, and are most commonly classified collectively as Bos primigenius...
, once used in agriculture, is nowadays endangered because it is losing its utility; as is also the Castro Laboreiro dog
Cão de Castro Laboreiro
The Cão de Castro Laboreiro, or Dog from Castro Laboreiro, or Portuguese Cattle Dog or Portuguese Watch Dog, is a dog breed of the livestock guardian dog type, originating from Castro Laboreiro in the northern mountains of Portugal....
, a hunting dog
Hunting dog
A hunting dog refers to any dog who assists humans in hunting. There are several types of hunting dogs developed for various tasks. The major categories of hunting dogs include hounds, terriers, dachshunds, cur type dogs, and gun dogs...
.