Philip Kraft
Encyclopedia
Philip Kraft is a German
fragrance chemist
. Since 1996 he has worked at Givaudan
, the world's leading company in the Flavor and Fragrance Industry where he designs new captive odorant
s for use in perfume
s. In addition, he is also a lecturer at the University of Bern, the University of Zurich
, and since autumn semester 2010/11 at the ETH Zurich
.
), where he was introduced to the world of scents and fragrances. After graduation from high school and a military service
concerned with forensic and analytical chemistry
, he studied chemistry from 1989–1994 at the University of Kiel
. He obtained his degree while working in Werner Tochtermann
's group; he then continued his research in this group, producing his PhD thesis on the synthesis
of macrocyclic musk
s, for which he was awarded the prize of the science faculty. He immediately moved to industry, and in 1996 joined the Fragrance Research center of Givaudan
in Dübendorf
(Switzerland
), as a laboratory head in organic synthesis. In 2001, he took part in an expedition
with Roman Kaiser
to the primary rain forest of the Masoala
peninsula
(Madagascar
) in search of new natural leads. The same year, he was promoted to group leader for the discovery of new odorants. His main research
interests are the rational design of new odorants, molecular modeling, and structure–odor correlations, particularly in the domain of musk
s and floral odorants. In the autumn semester of 2008/09 he read ‘Fragrance Chemistry’ at the University of Bern, in 2009/10 at the University of Zurich, and since autumn semester of 2010/11 at the ETH Zurich
.
and the Society of the Chemical Industry in Manchester 2004 and London 2007, which he now continues with the Gesellschaft Deutscher Chemiker
, the next one being projected at Leipzig
for 2012.
Germans
The Germans are a Germanic ethnic group native to Central Europe. The English term Germans has referred to the German-speaking population of the Holy Roman Empire since the Late Middle Ages....
fragrance chemist
Chemist
A chemist is a scientist trained in the study of chemistry. Chemists study the composition of matter and its properties such as density and acidity. Chemists carefully describe the properties they study in terms of quantities, with detail on the level of molecules and their component atoms...
. Since 1996 he has worked at Givaudan
Givaudan
Givaudan is a Swiss manufacturer of flavorings and fragrances. As of 2008, it is the world's largest company in the industry.-Background:The company's scents and flavors are developed most often for food and beverage makers, but they are also used frequently in household goods, as well as grooming...
, the world's leading company in the Flavor and Fragrance Industry where he designs new captive odorant
Captive odorant
A captive odorant, or short captive, is an odorant or aroma chemical retained by the originating manufacturer for exclusive use in their own perfumes to protect them from imitation.-Background:...
s for use in perfume
Perfume
Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils and/or aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents used to give the human body, animals, objects, and living spaces "a pleasant scent"...
s. In addition, he is also a lecturer at the University of Bern, the University of Zurich
University of Zurich
The University of Zurich , located in the city of Zurich, is the largest university in Switzerland, with over 25,000 students. It was founded in 1833 from the existing colleges of theology, law, medicine and a new faculty of philosophy....
, and since autumn semester 2010/11 at the ETH Zurich
ETH Zurich
The Swiss Federal Institute of Technology Zurich or ETH Zürich is an engineering, science, technology, mathematics and management university in the City of Zurich, Switzerland....
.
Career
His interest in fragrance chemistry and perfumery was awakened in 1986 by an article on rose oxide analogs, which led to contacts with Haarmann & Reimer (now SymriseSymrise
Symrise is a major producer of flavors and fragrances with sales of € 1,572 million in 2010. Major competitors include Firmenich, Givaudan, International Flavors and Fragrances and Takasago International.-History:...
), where he was introduced to the world of scents and fragrances. After graduation from high school and a military service
Military service
Military service, in its simplest sense, is service by an individual or group in an army or other militia, whether as a chosen job or as a result of an involuntary draft . Some nations require a specific amount of military service from every citizen...
concerned with forensic and analytical chemistry
Analytical chemistry
Analytical chemistry is the study of the separation, identification, and quantification of the chemical components of natural and artificial materials. Qualitative analysis gives an indication of the identity of the chemical species in the sample and quantitative analysis determines the amount of...
, he studied chemistry from 1989–1994 at the University of Kiel
University of Kiel
The University of Kiel is a university in the city of Kiel, Germany. It was founded in 1665 as the Academia Holsatorum Chiloniensis by Christian Albert, Duke of Holstein-Gottorp and has approximately 23,000 students today...
. He obtained his degree while working in Werner Tochtermann
Werner Tochtermann
Werner Tochtermann is a German chemist and emeritus professor. From 1976 till his retirement in 1999 he was full professor of Organic Chemistry at the University of Kiel. His main areas of research were the chemistry of medium and large rings, the synthesis of cyclophanes, and the...
's group; he then continued his research in this group, producing his PhD thesis on the synthesis
Organic synthesis
Organic synthesis is a special branch of chemical synthesis and is concerned with the construction of organic compounds via organic reactions. Organic molecules can often contain a higher level of complexity compared to purely inorganic compounds, so the synthesis of organic compounds has...
of macrocyclic musk
Musk
Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. They include glandular secretions from animals such as the musk deer, numerous plants emitting similar fragrances, and artificial substances with similar odors. Musk was a name originally given to a substance with a...
s, for which he was awarded the prize of the science faculty. He immediately moved to industry, and in 1996 joined the Fragrance Research center of Givaudan
Givaudan
Givaudan is a Swiss manufacturer of flavorings and fragrances. As of 2008, it is the world's largest company in the industry.-Background:The company's scents and flavors are developed most often for food and beverage makers, but they are also used frequently in household goods, as well as grooming...
in Dübendorf
Dübendorf
Dübendorf is a municipality in the district of Uster in the canton of Zürich in Switzerland.It is a suburb of Zürich in Switzerland with a population of about 23,000 . It is the fourth largest city in the canton, after Zürich, Winterthur, and Uster.-History:Dübendorf is first mentioned in 946 as...
(Switzerland
Switzerland
Switzerland name of one of the Swiss cantons. ; ; ; or ), in its full name the Swiss Confederation , is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, with Bern as the seat of the federal authorities. The country is situated in Western Europe,Or Central Europe depending on the definition....
), as a laboratory head in organic synthesis. In 2001, he took part in an expedition
Exploration
Exploration is the act of searching or traveling around a terrain for the purpose of discovery of resources or information. Exploration occurs in all non-sessile animal species, including humans...
with Roman Kaiser
Roman Kaiser
Roman Kaiser is a Swiss fragrance chemist. Since 1968 he has been working at Givaudan, the world's largest company in the Flavor and Fragrance Industry, where he analyzes and reconstitutes natural scents for use in perfumery using the headspace technology which he pioneered and which as a new...
to the primary rain forest of the Masoala
Masoala
Masoala is a genus of flowering plant in the Arecaceae family.It contains the following species:* Masoala kona* Masoala madagascariensis...
peninsula
Peninsula
A peninsula is a piece of land that is bordered by water on three sides but connected to mainland. In many Germanic and Celtic languages and also in Baltic, Slavic and Hungarian, peninsulas are called "half-islands"....
(Madagascar
Madagascar
The Republic of Madagascar is an island country located in the Indian Ocean off the southeastern coast of Africa...
) in search of new natural leads. The same year, he was promoted to group leader for the discovery of new odorants. His main research
Research
Research can be defined as the scientific search for knowledge, or as any systematic investigation, to establish novel facts, solve new or existing problems, prove new ideas, or develop new theories, usually using a scientific method...
interests are the rational design of new odorants, molecular modeling, and structure–odor correlations, particularly in the domain of musk
Musk
Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. They include glandular secretions from animals such as the musk deer, numerous plants emitting similar fragrances, and artificial substances with similar odors. Musk was a name originally given to a substance with a...
s and floral odorants. In the autumn semester of 2008/09 he read ‘Fragrance Chemistry’ at the University of Bern, in 2009/10 at the University of Zurich, and since autumn semester of 2010/11 at the ETH Zurich
ETH Zurich
The Swiss Federal Institute of Technology Zurich or ETH Zürich is an engineering, science, technology, mathematics and management university in the City of Zurich, Switzerland....
.
Publications and Patents
As of 2011, Kraft has authored 78 papers in peer-reviewed chemistry journals, and is inventor or co-inventor of 27 patents. Highly cited reviews include “Fragrance Chemistry“, “Odds and Trends: Recent Developments in the Chemistry of Odorants”, “New and Unusual Natural Products of Fascinating Flower Scents“, and a book chapter on “Musks”. He co-organized the Flavor & Fragrance conference series of the Royal Society of ChemistryRoyal Society of Chemistry
The Royal Society of Chemistry is a learned society in the United Kingdom with the goal of "advancing the chemical sciences." It was formed in 1980 from the merger of the Chemical Society, the Royal Institute of Chemistry, the Faraday Society and the Society for Analytical Chemistry with a new...
and the Society of the Chemical Industry in Manchester 2004 and London 2007, which he now continues with the Gesellschaft Deutscher Chemiker
Gesellschaft Deutscher Chemiker
The Gesellschaft Deutscher Chemiker is a learned society and professional association founded in 1949 to represent the interests of German chemists in local, national and international contexts...
, the next one being projected at Leipzig
Leipzig
Leipzig Leipzig has always been a trade city, situated during the time of the Holy Roman Empire at the intersection of the Via Regia and Via Imperii, two important trade routes. At one time, Leipzig was one of the major European centres of learning and culture in fields such as music and publishing...
for 2012.
Books
- Philip Kraft, Karl A. D. Swift, “Perspectives in Flavor and Fragrance Research”, Verlag Helvetica Chimica Acta, Zurich, and WILEY-VCH Verlag, Weinheim, 2005, ISBN 3-906390-36-5.
- Philip Kraft, Karl A. D. Swift, “Current Topics in Flavor and Fragrance Research”, Verlag Helvetica Chimica Acta, Zurich, and WILEY-VCH Verlag, Weinheim, 2008, ISBN 978-3-906390-49-9.
- Günther OhloffGünther OhloffGünther Ohloff was a prominent German fragrance chemist.- Life :...
, Wilhelm Pickenhagen, Philip Kraft: “Scent and Chemistry – The Molecular World of Odors”, Verlag Helvetica Chimica Acta, Zurich, 2011, ISBN 978-3-906390-66-6.
Invented Materials
- Super Muguet (6-ethyl-3-methyloct-6-en-1-ol, 2001), non-sensitizing muguet alcohol: »Marc Jacobs Men« (GivenchyHubert de GivenchyCount Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy is a French aristocrat and fashion designer who founded The House of Givenchy in 1952. He is famous for having designed much of the personal and professional wardrobe of Audrey Hepburn, as well as clothing for clients such as Jacqueline Kennedy...
, 2003). - Azurone (7-isopentyl-2H-benzo[b][1,4]dioxepin-3(4H)-one, 2004), potent marine odorant: »Oscar Marina Spirit« (Oscar de la RentaOscar de la RentaOscar de la Renta is one of the world's leading fashion designers. He was named to the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame in 1973.-Career:...
, 2005), »Sécrétions Magnifiques« (Etat Libre d'Orange, 2007). - Pomarose ((2E)-5,6,7-trimethylocta-2,5-dien-4-one, 2005), diffusive damasconeDamasconeDamascones are a series of closely related chemical compounds that are components of a variety of essential oils. The damascones belong to a family of chemicals known as rose ketones, which also includes damascenones and ionones...
note: »Be Delicious for Men« (DKNYDKNYDKNY is a label of fashion designer Donna Karan. It is also the name of a clothing store in New York City featuring Donna Karan's associated line.-History:...
, 2005), »Unforgivable« (Sean JohnSean JohnSean John Clothing Inc is a clothing and fragrance company owned by hip-hop mogul Sean Combs. The apparel company takes its name from Combs' first and middle given names....
, 2006), »Unforgivable Woman« (Sean JohnSean JohnSean John Clothing Inc is a clothing and fragrance company owned by hip-hop mogul Sean Combs. The apparel company takes its name from Combs' first and middle given names....
, 2007), »John Galliano« (John GallianoJohn GallianoJohn Charles Galliano CBE, RDI is a Gibraltan-born British fashion designer who was best known as head designer of French haute couture houses Givenchy and Christian Dior , and his own self titled fashion house.-Family:He was born in Gibraltar to a Gibraltarian father, Juan Galliano, and a...
, 2008), »1 Million« (Paco RabannePaco RabanneFrancisco "Paco" Rabaneda Cuervo, more commonly known as Paco Rabanne is a Franco-Spanish fashion designer. He fled Spain for France with his mother when the Spanish Civil War broke out...
, 2008), »CK free« (Calvin KleinCalvin KleinCalvin Richard Klein is an American fashion designer who launched the company that would later become Calvin Klein Inc. in 1968. In addition to clothing, Klein has also given his name to a range of perfumes, watches, and jewelry....
, 2009). - Serenolide (2-(1-(3,3-dimethylcyclohexyl)ethoxy)-2-methylpropyl cyclopropanecarboxylate, 2006), linear musk odorant: »Polo Double Black« (Ralph LaurenRalph LaurenRalph Lauren is an American fashion designer and business executive; best known for his Polo Ralph Lauren clothing brand.-Early life:...
, 2006), »Unforgivable Woman« (Sean JohnSean JohnSean John Clothing Inc is a clothing and fragrance company owned by hip-hop mogul Sean Combs. The apparel company takes its name from Combs' first and middle given names....
, 2007), »John Galliano« (John GallianoJohn GallianoJohn Charles Galliano CBE, RDI is a Gibraltan-born British fashion designer who was best known as head designer of French haute couture houses Givenchy and Christian Dior , and his own self titled fashion house.-Family:He was born in Gibraltar to a Gibraltarian father, Juan Galliano, and a...
, 2008). This substance showed only weak potential for skin sensitization. - Sylkolide ((3' E)-2-((3',5'-dimethylhex-3'-en-2'-yl)oxy)-2-methylpropyl cyclopropanecarboxylate, 2010), linear top-note musk: »Core for Men« (GAPGap (clothing retailer)The Gap, Inc. is an American clothing and accessories retailer based in San Francisco, California, and founded in 1969 by Donald G. Fisher and Doris F. Fisher. The company has five primary brands: the namesake Gap banner, Banana Republic, Old Navy, Piperlime and Athleta. As of September 2008,...
, 2010). - Cassyrane (2-(tert-butyl)-5-methyl-2-propyl-2,5-dihydrofuran, 2010), sulfur-free cassis top note.