Russian boot
Encyclopedia
Russian boot is the name applied to a style of calf- or knee-length fashion boot
Fashion boot
A fashion boot is a boot worn for reasons of style or fashion . The term is usually applied to women’s boots. Fashion boots come in a wide variety of styles, from ankle to thigh-length, and are used for casual, formal, and business attire...

 for women that was popular in the early part of the 20th Century. Russian boots fell out of favor in the 1930s, but were the inspiration for the high-leg fashion boots that returned to popularity in the 1950s and 60s. Today the term Russian boot is sometimes applied to the style of low heeled boots worn by some folk dancers.

History

The original Russian boot was the valenki
Valenki
Valenki are traditional Russian winter footwear, essentially felt boots: the name valenok literally means "made by felting". Valenki are made of wool felt. They are not water-resistant, and are often worn with galoshes to keep water out and protect the soles from wear and tear...

, a flat heeled, wide topped, knee-length boot worn by Russian soldiers. Designed to combat the extremely cold Russian winters, valenki were normally made from thick felt . The term was later applied to women’s boots in leather that appeared in the second decade of the 20th Century.

In the 19th and early 20th Centuries, ankle and calf-length boots were common footwear for women. Rising hemlines made longer styles of boots popular, particularly when the alternative was exposure of the ankle or calf, which was still considered shocking. In 1913, Denise Poiret, the wife of celebrated French couturier Paul Poiret, caused a sensation in Paris and New York by wearing knee-length boots in wrinkled morocco leather. Designed by her husband, made by the bottier Favereau, and styled with a low heel and a square toe, she had versions in red, white, green, and yellow By 1915 the New York Times was reporting that, inspired by Mme Poiret, these "Russian boots" had become extremely popular with more fashionable women . However, high-leg boots did not catch on, possibly because the skirts at that time were still too long for these boots to be practical.

By the 1920s, hemlines had risen above the knee and Russian boots were back in fashion. They were available in a variety of styles, calf- or knee-length, with a Cuban or Louis heel, which could be pull-on, or zip-fastened for a closer fit. Worn with knee-length skirts, they often featured decorative features such as elaborate stitching or fur trims . Russian boots were sporadically popular during the 1920s, as a more fashionable alternative to galoshes. They acquired a racy reputation, as the sort of footwear worn by girls that frequented saloon bars and speakeasies.

Russian boots fell out of favor by the 1930s. One reason for the decline in popularity of high boots during the first half of the 20th century may be because streets became cleaner as roads were surfaced and horse-drawn transport gave way to the motor engine. The additional protection provided by boots was no longer needed. It was not until the 1950s that boots were again regarded as fashion items.

Today

Russian boots were the inspiration for the modern fashion boot
Fashion boot
A fashion boot is a boot worn for reasons of style or fashion . The term is usually applied to women’s boots. Fashion boots come in a wide variety of styles, from ankle to thigh-length, and are used for casual, formal, and business attire...

, some of which closely resemble styles that first appeared in the 1920s. The term “Russian boot” is usually applied to the flat-heeled, calf-length boots popular with some traditions of folk dancing, especially those from Eastern Europe. In 2009, The New York Times reported that the original felt valenki was being reinvented as a fashion item in Russia
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