Saxon Switzerland climbing region
Encyclopedia
Saxon Switzerland is one of the best-known climbing regions in Germany. The region is largely coterminous with the natural region of the same name, Saxon Switzerland
, but extends well beyond the territory of the National Park
within it. It includes the western part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains
and is the oldest non-Alpine climbing region in Germany. Its birth is usually reckoned to be the first ascent in modern times of the Falkenstein in 1864 by Bad Schandau
gymnasts. Currently there are over 1,100 summits with more than 17,000 climbing routes in the Saxon Switzerland area.
is only permitted on free-standing climbing rock
s with at least 10 m prominence
, whilst in other climbing areas rock faces are often used. An historic exception are three massif
s which may be climbed. Almost all summits are furnished with summit register
s and abseiling
rings. These, like other safety rings, are looked after and maintained by the Saxon Climbers' Federation
(SBB).
, nd have remained largely unchanged to the present day. The basic principles had been developed before 1900, mainly by Oscar Schuster. Since then, the rules have only been slightly amended. Their main featured was, and is, that artificial aids to rock climbing are not permitted.
The climbing regulations are also part of the mountain sport concept required under the National Parks Ordinance for the Free State of Saxony, which lays down how and to what extent climbing in the Saxon Switzerland National Park
may be undertaken. They thus have a regulating function, for example in the stipulations concerning Boofen, which is only permitted as part of climbing sport.
The most important regulations are:
In addition the regulations go on to cover in detail the procedure for first ascents, climbing bans, the scale of climbing grades and conduct when climbing.
Saxon Switzerland is one of the best-known climbing regions in Germany. The region is largely coterminous with the natural region of the same name, Saxon Switzerland
, but extends well beyond the territory of the National Park
within it. It includes the western part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains
and is the oldest non-Alpine climbing region in Germany. Its birth is usually reckoned to be the first ascent in modern times of the Falkenstein in 1864 by Bad Schandau
gymnasts. Currently there are over 1,100 summits with more than 17,000 climbing routes in the Saxon Switzerland area.
is only permitted on free-standing climbing rock
s with at least 10 m prominence
, whilst in other climbing areas rock faces are often used. An historic exception are three massif
s which may be climbed. Almost all summits are furnished with summit register
s and abseiling
rings. These, like other safety rings, are looked after and maintained by the Saxon Climbers' Federation
(SBB).
, nd have remained largely unchanged to the present day. The basic principles had been developed before 1900, mainly by Oscar Schuster. Since then, the rules have only been slightly amended. Their main featured was, and is, that artificial aids to rock climbing are not permitted.
The climbing regulations are also part of the mountain sport concept required under the National Parks Ordinance for the Free State of Saxony, which lays down how and to what extent climbing in the Saxon Switzerland National Park
may be undertaken. They thus have a regulating function, for example in the stipulations concerning Boofen, which is only permitted as part of climbing sport.
The most important regulations are:
In addition the regulations go on to cover in detail the procedure for first ascents, climbing bans, the scale of climbing grades and conduct when climbing.
Saxon Switzerland is one of the best-known climbing regions in Germany. The region is largely coterminous with the natural region of the same name, Saxon Switzerland
, but extends well beyond the territory of the National Park
within it. It includes the western part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains
and is the oldest non-Alpine climbing region in Germany. Its birth is usually reckoned to be the first ascent in modern times of the Falkenstein in 1864 by Bad Schandau
gymnasts. Currently there are over 1,100 summits with more than 17,000 climbing routes in the Saxon Switzerland area.
is only permitted on free-standing climbing rock
s with at least 10 m prominence
, whilst in other climbing areas rock faces are often used. An historic exception are three massif
s which may be climbed. Almost all summits are furnished with summit register
s and abseiling
rings. These, like other safety rings, are looked after and maintained by the Saxon Climbers' Federation
(SBB).
, nd have remained largely unchanged to the present day. The basic principles had been developed before 1900, mainly by Oscar Schuster. Since then, the rules have only been slightly amended. Their main featured was, and is, that artificial aids to rock climbing are not permitted.
The climbing regulations are also part of the mountain sport concept required under the National Parks Ordinance for the Free State of Saxony, which lays down how and to what extent climbing in the Saxon Switzerland National Park
may be undertaken. They thus have a regulating function, for example in the stipulations concerning Boofen, which is only permitted as part of climbing sport.
The most important regulations are:
In addition the regulations go on to cover in detail the procedure for first ascents, climbing bans, the scale of climbing grades and conduct when climbing.
Saxon Switzerland
Saxon Switzerland is a hilly climbing area and national park around the Elbe valley south-east of Dresden in Saxony, Germany. Together with the Bohemian Switzerland in the Czech Republic it forms the Elbe Sandstone Mountains....
, but extends well beyond the territory of the National Park
Saxon Switzerland National Park
The Saxon Switzerland National Park , is a National Park in the German Free State of Saxony near the capital city of Dresden. It covers two areas of 93.5 km² in the heart of the German part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains which is called the Saxon Switzerland .The National Park is not far away...
within it. It includes the western part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains
Elbe Sandstone Mountains
The Elbe Sandstone Mountains, also called the Elbe sandstone highlands is a mountain range straddling the border between the state of Saxony in southeastern Germany and the North Bohemian region of the Czech Republic, with about three-quarters of the area lying on the German side...
and is the oldest non-Alpine climbing region in Germany. Its birth is usually reckoned to be the first ascent in modern times of the Falkenstein in 1864 by Bad Schandau
Bad Schandau
Bad Schandau is a spa town in Germany, in the south of the Free State of Saxony and the district of Sächsische Schweiz-Osterzgebirge. It is situated on the right bank of the Elbe, at the mouth of the little valley of the Kirnitzsch.-Geography:...
gymnasts. Currently there are over 1,100 summits with more than 17,000 climbing routes in the Saxon Switzerland area.
Climbing in Saxon Switzerland
Climbing in Saxon Switzerland has a number of aspects that are not found in other German climbing areas, or at least not to the same extent. There is a strong climbing ethic, which has been laid down in the Saxon Climbing Regulations since 1913 and is binding. This means that there are restrictions that must be observed in connexion with safety equipment and other climbing aids. resources constraints to be observed.Restrictions on free-standing climbing peaks
The first peculiarity is that climbingClimbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...
is only permitted on free-standing climbing rock
Climbing rock
A climbing rock is a term used especially in Germany for an individual rock formation, rock face or rock group on which climbing is permitted. Designated climbing rocks are listed in climbing guidebooks and are usually incorporated and marked within the climbing areas of the alpine clubs. The...
s with at least 10 m prominence
Topographic prominence
In topography, prominence, also known as autonomous height, relative height, shoulder drop , or prime factor , categorizes the height of the mountain's or hill's summit by the elevation between it and the lowest contour line encircling it and no higher summit...
, whilst in other climbing areas rock faces are often used. An historic exception are three massif
Massif
In geology, a massif is a section of a planet's crust that is demarcated by faults or flexures. In the movement of the crust, a massif tends to retain its internal structure while being displaced as a whole...
s which may be climbed. Almost all summits are furnished with summit register
Summit register
A summit book is a record of visitors to the summit of a mountain, usually one without a maintained trail. It is usually enclosed in a weatherproof, animalproof metal canister. Some books are maintained in an informal manner by an individual or small group, while others are maintained by a club...
s and abseiling
Abseiling
Abseiling , rappelling in American English, is the controlled descent down a rock face using a rope; climbers use this technique when a cliff or slope is too steep and/or dangerous to descend without protection.- Slang terms :...
rings. These, like other safety rings, are looked after and maintained by the Saxon Climbers' Federation
Saxon Climbers' Federation
The Saxon Climbers' Federation is a federation of individual members, small and large clubs and is the largest climbing association in the region for climbing activities in Saxon Switzerland and the surrounding area in eastern Germany. It is also the largest sports association in Saxony...
(SBB).
Saxon Climbing Regulations
Climbing regulations for Saxon Switzerland were first printed in 1913 in a climbing guide published by Rudolf FehrmannRudolf Fehrmann
Rudolf Fehrmann , a German, was a pioneer rock climber at Elbsandsteingebirge near Dresden. He began climbing at the age of 17 and was soon at the leading edge of the fledgling sport...
, nd have remained largely unchanged to the present day. The basic principles had been developed before 1900, mainly by Oscar Schuster. Since then, the rules have only been slightly amended. Their main featured was, and is, that artificial aids to rock climbing are not permitted.
The climbing regulations are also part of the mountain sport concept required under the National Parks Ordinance for the Free State of Saxony, which lays down how and to what extent climbing in the Saxon Switzerland National Park
Saxon Switzerland National Park
The Saxon Switzerland National Park , is a National Park in the German Free State of Saxony near the capital city of Dresden. It covers two areas of 93.5 km² in the heart of the German part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains which is called the Saxon Switzerland .The National Park is not far away...
may be undertaken. They thus have a regulating function, for example in the stipulations concerning Boofen, which is only permitted as part of climbing sport.
The most important regulations are:
- Artificial aids are forbidden. The climbing is only allowed to use natural hand- and footholds and must use his own bodily strength to climb.
- Ropes, slings, carabiners, etc., may only be used for protection.
- The existing surface of the rock must not be altered (exceptions are safety rings).
- Safety rings may only be established by the first person to climb a route. The use of subsequent rings is decided by the sub-committee of the SBB responsible.
- The use of chalkMagnesium carbonateMagnesium carbonate, MgCO3, is a white solid that occurs in nature as a mineral. Several hydrated and basic forms of magnesium carbonate also exist as minerals...
is forbidden. - NutNut (climbing)In rock climbing, a nut is a metal wedge threaded on a wire, used for protection by wedging it into a crack in the rock. Quickdraws are clipped to the nut wire by the ascending climber and the rope threads through the quickdraw. Nuts come in a variety of sizes and styles, and several different...
s, friends and similar aids are banned. Only slingSling (climbing equipment)A sling or runner is an item of climbing equipment consisting of a tied or sewn loop of webbing that can be wrapped around sections of rock, hitched to other pieces of equipment or tied directly to a tensioned line using a prusik knot; for anchor extension , equalization, or climbing the...
s may be used. - Climbers must use their own strength to hold themselves in position and may not use other means, such as ropes, to support themselves.
- Initial ascents of a new climbing route may only be attempted from bottom to top. The opening of new routes by driving in pitons "from above" (i.e. by hanging off a rope from the summit or ledge) common in other climbing areas, is forbidden.
- Climbing is forbidden on wet or damp rocks, if depending on the rock, there is a risk of damage to the rock and of losing one's footing or handholds.
In addition the regulations go on to cover in detail the procedure for first ascents, climbing bans, the scale of climbing grades and conduct when climbing.
Saxon Switzerland is one of the best-known climbing regions in Germany. The region is largely coterminous with the natural region of the same name, Saxon Switzerland
Saxon Switzerland
Saxon Switzerland is a hilly climbing area and national park around the Elbe valley south-east of Dresden in Saxony, Germany. Together with the Bohemian Switzerland in the Czech Republic it forms the Elbe Sandstone Mountains....
, but extends well beyond the territory of the National Park
Saxon Switzerland National Park
The Saxon Switzerland National Park , is a National Park in the German Free State of Saxony near the capital city of Dresden. It covers two areas of 93.5 km² in the heart of the German part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains which is called the Saxon Switzerland .The National Park is not far away...
within it. It includes the western part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains
Elbe Sandstone Mountains
The Elbe Sandstone Mountains, also called the Elbe sandstone highlands is a mountain range straddling the border between the state of Saxony in southeastern Germany and the North Bohemian region of the Czech Republic, with about three-quarters of the area lying on the German side...
and is the oldest non-Alpine climbing region in Germany. Its birth is usually reckoned to be the first ascent in modern times of the Falkenstein in 1864 by Bad Schandau
Bad Schandau
Bad Schandau is a spa town in Germany, in the south of the Free State of Saxony and the district of Sächsische Schweiz-Osterzgebirge. It is situated on the right bank of the Elbe, at the mouth of the little valley of the Kirnitzsch.-Geography:...
gymnasts. Currently there are over 1,100 summits with more than 17,000 climbing routes in the Saxon Switzerland area.
Climbing in Saxon Switzerland
Climbing in Saxon Switzerland has a number of aspects that are not found in other German climbing areas, or at least not to the same extent. There is a strong climbing ethic, which has been laid down in the Saxon Climbing Regulations since 1913 and is binding. This means that there are restrictions that must be observed in connexion with safety equipment and other climbing aids. resources constraints to be observed.Restrictions on free-standing climbing peaks
The first peculiarity is that climbingClimbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...
is only permitted on free-standing climbing rock
Climbing rock
A climbing rock is a term used especially in Germany for an individual rock formation, rock face or rock group on which climbing is permitted. Designated climbing rocks are listed in climbing guidebooks and are usually incorporated and marked within the climbing areas of the alpine clubs. The...
s with at least 10 m prominence
Topographic prominence
In topography, prominence, also known as autonomous height, relative height, shoulder drop , or prime factor , categorizes the height of the mountain's or hill's summit by the elevation between it and the lowest contour line encircling it and no higher summit...
, whilst in other climbing areas rock faces are often used. An historic exception are three massif
Massif
In geology, a massif is a section of a planet's crust that is demarcated by faults or flexures. In the movement of the crust, a massif tends to retain its internal structure while being displaced as a whole...
s which may be climbed. Almost all summits are furnished with summit register
Summit register
A summit book is a record of visitors to the summit of a mountain, usually one without a maintained trail. It is usually enclosed in a weatherproof, animalproof metal canister. Some books are maintained in an informal manner by an individual or small group, while others are maintained by a club...
s and abseiling
Abseiling
Abseiling , rappelling in American English, is the controlled descent down a rock face using a rope; climbers use this technique when a cliff or slope is too steep and/or dangerous to descend without protection.- Slang terms :...
rings. These, like other safety rings, are looked after and maintained by the Saxon Climbers' Federation
Saxon Climbers' Federation
The Saxon Climbers' Federation is a federation of individual members, small and large clubs and is the largest climbing association in the region for climbing activities in Saxon Switzerland and the surrounding area in eastern Germany. It is also the largest sports association in Saxony...
(SBB).
Saxon Climbing Regulations
Climbing regulations for Saxon Switzerland were first printed in 1913 in a climbing guide published by Rudolf FehrmannRudolf Fehrmann
Rudolf Fehrmann , a German, was a pioneer rock climber at Elbsandsteingebirge near Dresden. He began climbing at the age of 17 and was soon at the leading edge of the fledgling sport...
, nd have remained largely unchanged to the present day. The basic principles had been developed before 1900, mainly by Oscar Schuster. Since then, the rules have only been slightly amended. Their main featured was, and is, that artificial aids to rock climbing are not permitted.
The climbing regulations are also part of the mountain sport concept required under the National Parks Ordinance for the Free State of Saxony, which lays down how and to what extent climbing in the Saxon Switzerland National Park
Saxon Switzerland National Park
The Saxon Switzerland National Park , is a National Park in the German Free State of Saxony near the capital city of Dresden. It covers two areas of 93.5 km² in the heart of the German part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains which is called the Saxon Switzerland .The National Park is not far away...
may be undertaken. They thus have a regulating function, for example in the stipulations concerning Boofen, which is only permitted as part of climbing sport.
The most important regulations are:
- Artificial aids are forbidden. The climbing is only allowed to use natural hand- and footholds and must use his own bodily strength to climb.
- Ropes, slings, carabiners, etc., may only be used for protection.
- The existing surface of the rock must not be altered (exceptions are safety rings).
- Safety rings may only be established by the first person to climb a route. The use of subsequent rings is decided by the sub-committee of the SBB responsible.
- The use of chalkMagnesium carbonateMagnesium carbonate, MgCO3, is a white solid that occurs in nature as a mineral. Several hydrated and basic forms of magnesium carbonate also exist as minerals...
is forbidden. - NutNut (climbing)In rock climbing, a nut is a metal wedge threaded on a wire, used for protection by wedging it into a crack in the rock. Quickdraws are clipped to the nut wire by the ascending climber and the rope threads through the quickdraw. Nuts come in a variety of sizes and styles, and several different...
s, friends and similar aids are banned. Only slingSling (climbing equipment)A sling or runner is an item of climbing equipment consisting of a tied or sewn loop of webbing that can be wrapped around sections of rock, hitched to other pieces of equipment or tied directly to a tensioned line using a prusik knot; for anchor extension , equalization, or climbing the...
s may be used. - Climbers must use their own strength to hold themselves in position and may not use other means, such as ropes, to support themselves.
- Initial ascents of a new climbing route may only be attempted from bottom to top. The opening of new routes by driving in pitons "from above" (i.e. by hanging off a rope from the summit or ledge) common in other climbing areas, is forbidden.
- Climbing is forbidden on wet or damp rocks, if depending on the rock, there is a risk of damage to the rock and of losing one's footing or handholds.
In addition the regulations go on to cover in detail the procedure for first ascents, climbing bans, the scale of climbing grades and conduct when climbing.
Saxon Switzerland is one of the best-known climbing regions in Germany. The region is largely coterminous with the natural region of the same name, Saxon Switzerland
Saxon Switzerland
Saxon Switzerland is a hilly climbing area and national park around the Elbe valley south-east of Dresden in Saxony, Germany. Together with the Bohemian Switzerland in the Czech Republic it forms the Elbe Sandstone Mountains....
, but extends well beyond the territory of the National Park
Saxon Switzerland National Park
The Saxon Switzerland National Park , is a National Park in the German Free State of Saxony near the capital city of Dresden. It covers two areas of 93.5 km² in the heart of the German part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains which is called the Saxon Switzerland .The National Park is not far away...
within it. It includes the western part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains
Elbe Sandstone Mountains
The Elbe Sandstone Mountains, also called the Elbe sandstone highlands is a mountain range straddling the border between the state of Saxony in southeastern Germany and the North Bohemian region of the Czech Republic, with about three-quarters of the area lying on the German side...
and is the oldest non-Alpine climbing region in Germany. Its birth is usually reckoned to be the first ascent in modern times of the Falkenstein in 1864 by Bad Schandau
Bad Schandau
Bad Schandau is a spa town in Germany, in the south of the Free State of Saxony and the district of Sächsische Schweiz-Osterzgebirge. It is situated on the right bank of the Elbe, at the mouth of the little valley of the Kirnitzsch.-Geography:...
gymnasts. Currently there are over 1,100 summits with more than 17,000 climbing routes in the Saxon Switzerland area.
Climbing in Saxon Switzerland
Climbing in Saxon Switzerland has a number of aspects that are not found in other German climbing areas, or at least not to the same extent. There is a strong climbing ethic, which has been laid down in the Saxon Climbing Regulations since 1913 and is binding. This means that there are restrictions that must be observed in connexion with safety equipment and other climbing aids. resources constraints to be observed.Restrictions on free-standing climbing peaks
The first peculiarity is that climbingClimbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...
is only permitted on free-standing climbing rock
Climbing rock
A climbing rock is a term used especially in Germany for an individual rock formation, rock face or rock group on which climbing is permitted. Designated climbing rocks are listed in climbing guidebooks and are usually incorporated and marked within the climbing areas of the alpine clubs. The...
s with at least 10 m prominence
Topographic prominence
In topography, prominence, also known as autonomous height, relative height, shoulder drop , or prime factor , categorizes the height of the mountain's or hill's summit by the elevation between it and the lowest contour line encircling it and no higher summit...
, whilst in other climbing areas rock faces are often used. An historic exception are three massif
Massif
In geology, a massif is a section of a planet's crust that is demarcated by faults or flexures. In the movement of the crust, a massif tends to retain its internal structure while being displaced as a whole...
s which may be climbed. Almost all summits are furnished with summit register
Summit register
A summit book is a record of visitors to the summit of a mountain, usually one without a maintained trail. It is usually enclosed in a weatherproof, animalproof metal canister. Some books are maintained in an informal manner by an individual or small group, while others are maintained by a club...
s and abseiling
Abseiling
Abseiling , rappelling in American English, is the controlled descent down a rock face using a rope; climbers use this technique when a cliff or slope is too steep and/or dangerous to descend without protection.- Slang terms :...
rings. These, like other safety rings, are looked after and maintained by the Saxon Climbers' Federation
Saxon Climbers' Federation
The Saxon Climbers' Federation is a federation of individual members, small and large clubs and is the largest climbing association in the region for climbing activities in Saxon Switzerland and the surrounding area in eastern Germany. It is also the largest sports association in Saxony...
(SBB).
Saxon Climbing Regulations
Climbing regulations for Saxon Switzerland were first printed in 1913 in a climbing guide published by Rudolf FehrmannRudolf Fehrmann
Rudolf Fehrmann , a German, was a pioneer rock climber at Elbsandsteingebirge near Dresden. He began climbing at the age of 17 and was soon at the leading edge of the fledgling sport...
, nd have remained largely unchanged to the present day. The basic principles had been developed before 1900, mainly by Oscar Schuster. Since then, the rules have only been slightly amended. Their main featured was, and is, that artificial aids to rock climbing are not permitted.
The climbing regulations are also part of the mountain sport concept required under the National Parks Ordinance for the Free State of Saxony, which lays down how and to what extent climbing in the Saxon Switzerland National Park
Saxon Switzerland National Park
The Saxon Switzerland National Park , is a National Park in the German Free State of Saxony near the capital city of Dresden. It covers two areas of 93.5 km² in the heart of the German part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains which is called the Saxon Switzerland .The National Park is not far away...
may be undertaken. They thus have a regulating function, for example in the stipulations concerning Boofen, which is only permitted as part of climbing sport.
The most important regulations are:
- Artificial aids are forbidden. The climbing is only allowed to use natural hand- and footholds and must use his own bodily strength to climb.
- Ropes, slings, carabiners, etc., may only be used for protection.
- The existing surface of the rock must not be altered (exceptions are safety rings).
- Safety rings may only be established by the first person to climb a route. The use of subsequent rings is decided by the sub-committee of the SBB responsible.
- The use of chalkMagnesium carbonateMagnesium carbonate, MgCO3, is a white solid that occurs in nature as a mineral. Several hydrated and basic forms of magnesium carbonate also exist as minerals...
is forbidden. - NutNut (climbing)In rock climbing, a nut is a metal wedge threaded on a wire, used for protection by wedging it into a crack in the rock. Quickdraws are clipped to the nut wire by the ascending climber and the rope threads through the quickdraw. Nuts come in a variety of sizes and styles, and several different...
s, friends and similar aids are banned. Only slingSling (climbing equipment)A sling or runner is an item of climbing equipment consisting of a tied or sewn loop of webbing that can be wrapped around sections of rock, hitched to other pieces of equipment or tied directly to a tensioned line using a prusik knot; for anchor extension , equalization, or climbing the...
s may be used. - Climbers must use their own strength to hold themselves in position and may not use other means, such as ropes, to support themselves.
- Initial ascents of a new climbing route may only be attempted from bottom to top. The opening of new routes by driving in pitons "from above" (i.e. by hanging off a rope from the summit or ledge) common in other climbing areas, is forbidden.
- Climbing is forbidden on wet or damp rocks, if depending on the rock, there is a risk of damage to the rock and of losing one's footing or handholds.
In addition the regulations go on to cover in detail the procedure for first ascents, climbing bans, the scale of climbing grades and conduct when climbing.