Slab climbing
Encyclopedia
Slab climbing is a type of rock climbing
where the rock face is at an angle of less than 90 degrees. It is characterized by balance- and friction-dependent moves on very small holds. It is often not leadable
, or climbable from the ground up, unless it has predrilled bolts
to protect the climb, making most slab climbs either top rope climbing or sport climbing
. Special techniques such as smearing are necessary to climb slab. It is distinctly different from other types of climbing including face climbing, crack climbing, off-width climbing. Slab climbing is a relatively new area of climbing, having become more popular in the last 30 years and some of the highest graded
routes are currently being realized.
exist. Slab climbs rarely have cracks or face holds, making them dangerous to lead climb using traditional protection
, or removable gear that fits into rock features, since the scarcity of protectable features results in long sections where the climber is exposed to long falls (over 150 feet in some routes). As a result, it was not until the introduction of bolting routes that hard slab lines could be climbed. In 1927, Laurent Grivel designed the first rock drill and expansion bolt, which paved the way for protecting climbs such as slab. The next advancement for slab climbing did not come until 1980 when Boreal marketed the first "sticky rubber" shoe
, allowing friction climbing to be more feasible. Before this, most climbing was done in boots or thick soled shoes, which prevents the climber from making the balance dependent moves required on slab walls.
Slab climbing saw a dramatic increase in the number of new routes with the introduction of lightweight, electric drills in the 1980s, but slowed down as criticism of permanent bolting grew, and electric drills became illegal in many National Parks and Wilderness Areas. A new generation of climbers has begun to revive slab climbing, putting up some of the hardest routes in the world.
is a technique used on slab walls. According to the book, Freedom of the Hills, it consists of putting a foot directly on the rock face where no feature exists. Pressure is applied and the friction between the shoe and the rock allows the climber to move on the wall. Smearing is dependent on a climber's shoe and the type of rock. Sticky rubber shoes increase friction. Smooth rock, such as quartzite
, is difficult to smear on, while sandstone
or granite
is much easier. The angle of the slab also plays a large part in the difficulty of the move. A 60 degree slab is easier to smear on than a 80 degree slab. A good smear also puts as much shoe in contact with the rock as possible. The foot should be kept flat, instead of using just the points of the toes to smear.
and granite
are both excellent for slab climbing, because the rock has lots of friction, making smearing easier. Limestone
slab climbs are more difficult, due to the smoothness of the rock, and quartzite
slab climbs are even rarer due to the polished nature of the rock.
Rock climbing
Rock climbing also lightly called 'The Gravity Game', is a sport in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route without falling...
where the rock face is at an angle of less than 90 degrees. It is characterized by balance- and friction-dependent moves on very small holds. It is often not leadable
Lead climbing
Lead climbing is a climbing technique used to ascend a route. This technique is predominantly used in rock climbing and involves a lead climber attaching themselves to a length of dynamic climbing rope and ascending a route while periodically attaching protection to the face of the route and...
, or climbable from the ground up, unless it has predrilled bolts
Bolt (climbing)
In rock climbing, a bolt is a permanent anchor fixed into a hole drilled in the rock as a form of protection. Most bolts are either self-anchoring expansion bolts or fixed in place with liquid resin....
to protect the climb, making most slab climbs either top rope climbing or sport climbing
Sport climbing
Sport climbing is a form of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock, and possibly bolts, for protection,...
. Special techniques such as smearing are necessary to climb slab. It is distinctly different from other types of climbing including face climbing, crack climbing, off-width climbing. Slab climbing is a relatively new area of climbing, having become more popular in the last 30 years and some of the highest graded
Grade (climbing)
In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...
routes are currently being realized.
History
The first routes put up on new cliffs almost always follow cracks, due to the ease of placing protection, or pieces of metal which arrest a fall, while on lead. Slab climbs rarely have cracks or other protectable features. Therefore, slab climbs are usually discovered well after the cracks are all climbed, since easier routes to the summitSummit
Summit may refer to:*Summit , the highest point of a mountain, hill, road, or railway.-Locations:United States* Summit, Arizona* Summit, Arkansas* Summit, California** Summit, Butte County, California** Summit, Kern County, California...
exist. Slab climbs rarely have cracks or face holds, making them dangerous to lead climb using traditional protection
Traditional climbing
Traditional climbing, or trad climbing, is a style of rock climbing in which a climber or group of climbers places all gear required to protect against falls , and removes it when a passage is complete...
, or removable gear that fits into rock features, since the scarcity of protectable features results in long sections where the climber is exposed to long falls (over 150 feet in some routes). As a result, it was not until the introduction of bolting routes that hard slab lines could be climbed. In 1927, Laurent Grivel designed the first rock drill and expansion bolt, which paved the way for protecting climbs such as slab. The next advancement for slab climbing did not come until 1980 when Boreal marketed the first "sticky rubber" shoe
Climbing shoe
A climbing shoe is a specialized type of footwear designed for rock climbing. Typical climbing shoes have a close fit, little if any padding, and a smooth, sticky rubber sole with an extended rubber rand...
, allowing friction climbing to be more feasible. Before this, most climbing was done in boots or thick soled shoes, which prevents the climber from making the balance dependent moves required on slab walls.
Slab climbing saw a dramatic increase in the number of new routes with the introduction of lightweight, electric drills in the 1980s, but slowed down as criticism of permanent bolting grew, and electric drills became illegal in many National Parks and Wilderness Areas. A new generation of climbers has begun to revive slab climbing, putting up some of the hardest routes in the world.
Techniques
Slab climbing is one of the most technically demanding styles of climbing. Unlike overhanging or vertical routes, where strong muscles are very important, slab climbing demands intense concentration and precise foot placement.Smearing
SmearingSmearing
Smearing in rock climbing is the practice of using as much as possible of the surface of the sole of a shoe against a flat rock face. This is done to maximize the amount of friction between the rock and the shoe. Smearing can be one of the most insecure and technical techniques used in climbing,...
is a technique used on slab walls. According to the book, Freedom of the Hills, it consists of putting a foot directly on the rock face where no feature exists. Pressure is applied and the friction between the shoe and the rock allows the climber to move on the wall. Smearing is dependent on a climber's shoe and the type of rock. Sticky rubber shoes increase friction. Smooth rock, such as quartzite
Quartzite
Quartzite is a hard metamorphic rock which was originally sandstone. Sandstone is converted into quartzite through heating and pressure usually related to tectonic compression within orogenic belts. Pure quartzite is usually white to gray, though quartzites often occur in various shades of pink...
, is difficult to smear on, while sandstone
Sandstone
Sandstone is a sedimentary rock composed mainly of sand-sized minerals or rock grains.Most sandstone is composed of quartz and/or feldspar because these are the most common minerals in the Earth's crust. Like sand, sandstone may be any colour, but the most common colours are tan, brown, yellow,...
or granite
Granite
Granite is a common and widely occurring type of intrusive, felsic, igneous rock. Granite usually has a medium- to coarse-grained texture. Occasionally some individual crystals are larger than the groundmass, in which case the texture is known as porphyritic. A granitic rock with a porphyritic...
is much easier. The angle of the slab also plays a large part in the difficulty of the move. A 60 degree slab is easier to smear on than a 80 degree slab. A good smear also puts as much shoe in contact with the rock as possible. The foot should be kept flat, instead of using just the points of the toes to smear.
Body placement
Climbers must keep their center of gravity directly above their feet in slab climbing. A climber that keeps their weight too close to the wall risks pushing their feet off the wall. This means a climber will often have their hips away from the rock, which is the opposite of traditional climbing technique. A climber’s hands are often used to assist in this positioning by pushing out against the wall.Movement
Slab climbing requires smooth movement over the rock, instead of long, jerky moves. Short steps should be taken to maintain balance, and the arms should be kept in contact with the rock. Slab climbing almost never has dynamic moves (dynos).Falls
Falling is usually dangerous on slab because of poor protection and the nature of the rock. The climber will often slide or tumble down the rock, instead of dropping through the air. This can cause serious skin injuries. When falling, try and stay upright and slide instead of tumbling.Types of rock
Rough rock is excellent for slab climbing. SandstoneSandstone
Sandstone is a sedimentary rock composed mainly of sand-sized minerals or rock grains.Most sandstone is composed of quartz and/or feldspar because these are the most common minerals in the Earth's crust. Like sand, sandstone may be any colour, but the most common colours are tan, brown, yellow,...
and granite
Granite
Granite is a common and widely occurring type of intrusive, felsic, igneous rock. Granite usually has a medium- to coarse-grained texture. Occasionally some individual crystals are larger than the groundmass, in which case the texture is known as porphyritic. A granitic rock with a porphyritic...
are both excellent for slab climbing, because the rock has lots of friction, making smearing easier. Limestone
Limestone
Limestone is a sedimentary rock composed largely of the minerals calcite and aragonite, which are different crystal forms of calcium carbonate . Many limestones are composed from skeletal fragments of marine organisms such as coral or foraminifera....
slab climbs are more difficult, due to the smoothness of the rock, and quartzite
Quartzite
Quartzite is a hard metamorphic rock which was originally sandstone. Sandstone is converted into quartzite through heating and pressure usually related to tectonic compression within orogenic belts. Pure quartzite is usually white to gray, though quartzites often occur in various shades of pink...
slab climbs are even rarer due to the polished nature of the rock.
See also
- Lists and glossaries
- List of climbers
- List of climbing topics
- List of climbing areas
- List of climbing equipment manufacturers
- Glossary of climbing termsGlossary of climbing termsThis page describes terms and jargon related to climbing and mountaineering.-A:American death triangle : An anchor which is created by connecting a closed loop of cord or webbing between two points of protection, and then suspending the rope from a carabiner clipped to only one strand of said anchor...
- Climbing terminology
- Climbing command
- Glossary of knots common in climbingGlossary of knots common in climbingThere are many knots used in climbing, rappelling and mountaineering. Popular climbing knots are briefly described and depicted in this article.-Bends:Beer knot: The Beer knot is often used in tubular webbing, usually for making slings....
- Rock climbing gradesGrade (climbing)In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route...