Sunless tanning
Encyclopedia
Sunless tanning
Sunless tanning (also known as UV-free tanning, self tanning, spray tanning (when applied topical, or fake tanning) refers to the application of chemicals to the skin to produce an effect similar in appearance to a suntan
. The popularity of sunless tanning has risen since the 1960s after links were made by health authorities between exposure to the sun, and other sun tanning
methods, such as sunbeds or tanning beds, and the incidence of skin cancer
.
Carotenoids occur naturally in fruit and vegetables, giving them their strong colours.
Carotenaemia (xanthaemia) is the presence in blood of the yellow pigment carotene from excessive intake of carrots or other vegetables containing the pigment resulting in increased serum carotenoids. It can lead to subsequent yellow-orange discoloration (xanthoderma or carotenoderma) and their subsequent deposition in the outermost layer of skin. Carotenemia and carotenoderma is in itself harmless, and does not require treatment. In primary carotenoderma, when the use of high quantities of carotene is discontinued the skin color will return to normal. It may take up to several months, however, for this to happen.
which are significant better absorbed when taking with meal. 50 mg beta-carotene corresponds 600 grams of carrots.
A study found that taking beta-carotene for 10 weeks, in amounts of about 57 mg per day, protected against sunburn. One cup of carrot juice has about 22 mg of beta-carotene. The researchers said the SPF of beta-carotene was about 4. They thought the benefit from beta-carotene could be due to its antioxidant potential or interference in other parts of the biochemical pathways leading to sunburn.
Researchers concluded that "The extent of protection with ingested carotenoids is not comparable to the use of a sunscreen with a high sun protection factor. However, increasing the basal protection systematically contributes to the permanent defense against UV light-mediated skin damage."
Beta-carotene does not cause any side effects; however, excessive intake (more than 100,000 IU, or 60 mg per day) sometimes gives the skin a yellow-orange hue.
, which is most commonly used as a color additive in certain foods. Although the FDA has approved the use of canthaxanthin in food, it does not approve its use as a tanning agent. When used as a color additive, only very small amounts of canthaxanthin are necessary. As a tanning agent, however, much larger quantities are used. After canthaxanthin is consumed, it is deposited throughout the body, including in the layer of fat below the skin, which turns an orange-brown color. These types of tanning pills have been linked to various side effects, including hepatitis
and canthaxanthin retinopathy
, a condition in which yellow deposits form in the retina of the eye. Other side effects including damage to the digestive system and skin surface have also been noted. The FDA withdrew approval for use of canthaxanthin as a tanning agent, and has issued warnings concerning its use.
(DHA) as the active ingredient. DHA is not a dye, stain or paint, but causes a chemical reaction with the amino acids in the dead layer on the skin surface. This is similar to the Maillard reaction
, a process well known to food chemists that causes the browning that occurs during food manufacturing and storage. It does not involve skin pigmentation nor does it require exposure to ultraviolet light
to initiate the color change. The effect is temporary and fades gradually over 3 to 10 days.
These products are available as gels, lotions, mousses, sprays and wipes, some of which also use erythrulose
which works identically to DHA, but develops more slowly. Both DHA and erythrulose have been known to cause contact dermatitis
.
Professional spraytan applications are available from spas, salons and gymnasiums by both hand-held sprayers and in the form of sunless or UV-Free spray booths. The enclosed booth, which resembles an enclosed shower stall, sprays the tanning solution over the entire body. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration
(FDA) states when using DHA-containing products as an all-over spray or mist in a commercial spray "tanning" booth, it may be difficult to avoid exposure in a manner for which DHA is not approved, including the area of the eyes, lips, or mucous membrane, or even internally. DHA is not approved by the FDA for inhalation.
DHA has been approved for cosmetic use by the FDA. Because DHA does not use the skin's melanocytes to make the skin a tan color, it is recommended as a cosmetic disguising cover for vitiligo
patients.
-- claim that they stimulate and increase melanin
formation, thereby accelerating the tanning process. These are used in conjunction with UV exposure. At this time, there is no scientific data available to support these claims.
, a synthetic melanocyte-stimulating hormone
analog, which induces melanogenesis through activation of the melanocortin 1 receptor
, is another alternative on the horizon.
A 1991 clinical Investigational new drug
trial conducted at the Department of Internal Medicine, University of Arizona Health Sciences Center with afamelanotide (then known by its amino acid
formula
[Nle4, D-Phe7] (NDP)-alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone) with 28, "healthy white men" who used a, "high-potency sunscreen during the trial" and concluded, "Human skin darkens as a response to a synthetic melanotropin
given by subcutaneous injection
. Skin tanning appears possible without potentially harmful exposure to ultraviolet radiation."
Afamelanotide in a subcutaneous implant form is currently undergoing clinical trials and being developed by a company in Australia.
They are often used for a "one-day" only tan, or to complement a DHA based sunless tan. Many formulations are available, and some have limited sweat or light water resistance. Most will create some light but visible rub-off onto snug clothing. Therefore they should not be applied under clothing, or where fabric and skin edges meet. Dark clothing will prevent the rub-off from being noticeable. While these products are much safer than tanning beds, the color produced can sometimes look orangey and splotchy if applied incorrectly.
A recent trend is that of lotions or moisturizers containing a gradual tanning agent. A slight increase in color is usually observable after the first use, but color will continue to darken the more the product is used.
Air Brush tanning is a spray on tan done by a professional. It can last five to ten days fading with every shower. It is used for special occasions or to get a quick dark tan. At-home airbrush tanning kits and aerosol mists are also now available.
, therefore, they do not provide any protection against ultraviolet rays when the person is outdoors. To offer protection against UV rays the tanner should contain an SPF. The ingredients known to offer appropriate protection are titanium dioxide
, zinc oxide
, or avobenzone
.
Risks of inhaling or ingesting DHA are not known. People are advised to close their eyes or protect them with goggles
and to hold their breath or wear nose plugs while they have a spray-on tanning applied.
Many self tanners use chemical fragrances which may cause skin allergies or may trigger asthma
. Furthermore, some of them contain parabens
. Parabens are preservatives that can affect the endocrine system
.
Tanners can stain clothes. It is therefore important to look for fast drying formulas and wait around 10 to 15 minutes for the product to dry before dressing.
For the 24 hours after self-tanner (containing high DHA levels, ~5%) is applied, the skin is especially susceptible to free-radical damage from sunlight, according to a 2007 study led by Katinka Jung of the Gematria Test Lab in Berlin. Forty minutes after the researchers treated skin samples with high levels of DHA they found that more than 180 percent additional free radicals formed during sun exposure compared with untreated skin.
Sunless tanning (also known as UV-free tanning, self tanning, spray tanning (when applied topical, or fake tanning) refers to the application of chemicals to the skin to produce an effect similar in appearance to a suntan
Sun tanning
Sun tanning or simply tanning is the process whereby skin color is darkened or tanned. The process is most often a result of exposure to ultraviolet radiation from the sun or from artificial sources, such as a tanning bed, but can also be a result of windburn or reflected light...
. The popularity of sunless tanning has risen since the 1960s after links were made by health authorities between exposure to the sun, and other sun tanning
Sun tanning
Sun tanning or simply tanning is the process whereby skin color is darkened or tanned. The process is most often a result of exposure to ultraviolet radiation from the sun or from artificial sources, such as a tanning bed, but can also be a result of windburn or reflected light...
methods, such as sunbeds or tanning beds, and the incidence of skin cancer
Skin cancer
Skin neoplasms are skin growths with differing causes and varying degrees of malignancy. The three most common malignant skin cancers are basal cell cancer, squamous cell cancer, and melanoma, each of which is named after the type of skin cell from which it arises...
.
Carotenoid-based products
The most effective sunless tanning is beta-carotene because it is natural and permanent, and at the same time act as permanent defense against UV light-mediated skin damage unlike most sunless tanning products, and improves tanning. Also, carotenoids (like beta-carotene) have been linked to more attractive skin tone than suntan.Carotenoids occur naturally in fruit and vegetables, giving them their strong colours.
Carotenaemia (xanthaemia) is the presence in blood of the yellow pigment carotene from excessive intake of carrots or other vegetables containing the pigment resulting in increased serum carotenoids. It can lead to subsequent yellow-orange discoloration (xanthoderma or carotenoderma) and their subsequent deposition in the outermost layer of skin. Carotenemia and carotenoderma is in itself harmless, and does not require treatment. In primary carotenoderma, when the use of high quantities of carotene is discontinued the skin color will return to normal. It may take up to several months, however, for this to happen.
Beta-carotene
A sunless-tanning product is tanning pills which contain beta-caroteneBeta-carotene
β-Carotene is a strongly-coloured red-orange pigment abundant in plants and fruits. It is an organic compound and chemically is classified as a hydrocarbon and specifically as a terpenoid , reflecting its derivation from isoprene units...
which are significant better absorbed when taking with meal. 50 mg beta-carotene corresponds 600 grams of carrots.
A study found that taking beta-carotene for 10 weeks, in amounts of about 57 mg per day, protected against sunburn. One cup of carrot juice has about 22 mg of beta-carotene. The researchers said the SPF of beta-carotene was about 4. They thought the benefit from beta-carotene could be due to its antioxidant potential or interference in other parts of the biochemical pathways leading to sunburn.
Researchers concluded that "The extent of protection with ingested carotenoids is not comparable to the use of a sunscreen with a high sun protection factor. However, increasing the basal protection systematically contributes to the permanent defense against UV light-mediated skin damage."
Beta-carotene does not cause any side effects; however, excessive intake (more than 100,000 IU, or 60 mg per day) sometimes gives the skin a yellow-orange hue.
Canthaxanthin
Another sunless-tanning product is tanning pills which contain canthaxanthinCanthaxanthin
Canthaxanthin is a carotenoid pigment widely distributed in nature. Carotenoids belong to a larger class of phytochemicals known as terpenoids. The chemical formula of canthaxanthin is C40H52O2. It has E number E161g and is approved for use in the EU and USA however it is not approved for usage in...
, which is most commonly used as a color additive in certain foods. Although the FDA has approved the use of canthaxanthin in food, it does not approve its use as a tanning agent. When used as a color additive, only very small amounts of canthaxanthin are necessary. As a tanning agent, however, much larger quantities are used. After canthaxanthin is consumed, it is deposited throughout the body, including in the layer of fat below the skin, which turns an orange-brown color. These types of tanning pills have been linked to various side effects, including hepatitis
Hepatitis
Hepatitis is a medical condition defined by the inflammation of the liver and characterized by the presence of inflammatory cells in the tissue of the organ. The name is from the Greek hepar , the root being hepat- , meaning liver, and suffix -itis, meaning "inflammation"...
and canthaxanthin retinopathy
Retinopathy
Retinopathy is a general term that refers to some form of non-inflammatory damage to the retina of the eye. Frequently, retinopathy is an ocular manifestation of systemic disease.-Pathophysiology:Causes of retinopathy are varied:...
, a condition in which yellow deposits form in the retina of the eye. Other side effects including damage to the digestive system and skin surface have also been noted. The FDA withdrew approval for use of canthaxanthin as a tanning agent, and has issued warnings concerning its use.
DHA-based products
The most effective sunless tanning involves the use of lotions and sprays that contain dihydroxyacetoneDihydroxyacetone
Dihydroxyacetone , or DHA, also known as glycerone, is a simple carbohydrate with formula .DHA is primarily used as an ingredient in sunless tanning products. It is often derived from plant sources such as sugar beets and sugar cane, and by the fermentation of glycerin.-Chemistry:DHA is a...
(DHA) as the active ingredient. DHA is not a dye, stain or paint, but causes a chemical reaction with the amino acids in the dead layer on the skin surface. This is similar to the Maillard reaction
Maillard reaction
The Maillard reaction is a form of nonenzymatic browning similar to caramelization. It results from a chemical reaction between an amino acid and a reducing sugar, usually requiring heat....
, a process well known to food chemists that causes the browning that occurs during food manufacturing and storage. It does not involve skin pigmentation nor does it require exposure to ultraviolet light
Ultraviolet
Ultraviolet light is electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength shorter than that of visible light, but longer than X-rays, in the range 10 nm to 400 nm, and energies from 3 eV to 124 eV...
to initiate the color change. The effect is temporary and fades gradually over 3 to 10 days.
These products are available as gels, lotions, mousses, sprays and wipes, some of which also use erythrulose
Erythrulose
D-Erythrulose is a tetrose carbohydrate with the chemical formula C4H8O4. It has one ketone group and so is part of the ketose family...
which works identically to DHA, but develops more slowly. Both DHA and erythrulose have been known to cause contact dermatitis
Contact dermatitis
Contact dermatitis is a term for a skin reaction resulting from exposure to allergens or irritants . Phototoxic dermatitis occurs when the allergen or irritant is activated by sunlight....
.
Professional spraytan applications are available from spas, salons and gymnasiums by both hand-held sprayers and in the form of sunless or UV-Free spray booths. The enclosed booth, which resembles an enclosed shower stall, sprays the tanning solution over the entire body. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration
Food and Drug Administration
The Food and Drug Administration is an agency of the United States Department of Health and Human Services, one of the United States federal executive departments...
(FDA) states when using DHA-containing products as an all-over spray or mist in a commercial spray "tanning" booth, it may be difficult to avoid exposure in a manner for which DHA is not approved, including the area of the eyes, lips, or mucous membrane, or even internally. DHA is not approved by the FDA for inhalation.
DHA has been approved for cosmetic use by the FDA. Because DHA does not use the skin's melanocytes to make the skin a tan color, it is recommended as a cosmetic disguising cover for vitiligo
Vitiligo
Vitiligo is a condition that causes depigmentation of sections of skin. It occurs when melanocytes, the cells responsible for skin pigmentation, die or are unable to function. The cause of vitiligo is unknown, but research suggests that it may arise from autoimmune, genetic, oxidative stress,...
patients.
Tyrosine-based products
Although gels, lotions or sprays that contain DHA are said to be the most reliable and useful, there are other types of products on the market. Tanning accelerators—lotions or pills that usually contain the amino acid tyrosineTyrosine
Tyrosine or 4-hydroxyphenylalanine, is one of the 22 amino acids that are used by cells to synthesize proteins. Its codons are UAC and UAU. It is a non-essential amino acid with a polar side group...
-- claim that they stimulate and increase melanin
Melanin
Melanin is a pigment that is ubiquitous in nature, being found in most organisms . In animals melanin pigments are derivatives of the amino acid tyrosine. The most common form of biological melanin is eumelanin, a brown-black polymer of dihydroxyindole carboxylic acids, and their reduced forms...
formation, thereby accelerating the tanning process. These are used in conjunction with UV exposure. At this time, there is no scientific data available to support these claims.
Melanotan hormone
AfamelanotideAfamelanotide
Afamelanotide developed at the University of Arizona is a synthetic analog of the naturally-occurring melanocortin peptide hormone alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone that has been shown to induce skin pigmentation through melanogenesis and thereby subsequently reduce sun damage to UV exposed...
, a synthetic melanocyte-stimulating hormone
Melanocyte-stimulating hormone
The melanocyte-stimulating hormones are a class of peptide hormones that are produced by cells in the intermediate lobe of the pituitary gland...
analog, which induces melanogenesis through activation of the melanocortin 1 receptor
Melanocortin 1 receptor
The melanocortin 1 receptor , also known as melanocyte-stimulating hormone receptor , melanin-activating peptide receptor, or melanotropin receptor, is a G protein-coupled receptor which binds to a class of pituitary peptide hormones known as the melanocortins, of which include adrenocorticotropic...
, is another alternative on the horizon.
A 1991 clinical Investigational new drug
Investigational New Drug
The United States Food and Drug Administration's Investigational New Drug program is the means by which a pharmaceutical company obtains permission to ship an experimental drug across state lines before a marketing application for the drug has been approved...
trial conducted at the Department of Internal Medicine, University of Arizona Health Sciences Center with afamelanotide (then known by its amino acid
Amino acid
Amino acids are molecules containing an amine group, a carboxylic acid group and a side-chain that varies between different amino acids. The key elements of an amino acid are carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, and nitrogen...
formula
Chemical formula
A chemical formula or molecular formula is a way of expressing information about the atoms that constitute a particular chemical compound....
[Nle4, D-Phe7] (NDP)-alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone) with 28, "healthy white men" who used a, "high-potency sunscreen during the trial" and concluded, "Human skin darkens as a response to a synthetic melanotropin
Melanocyte-stimulating hormone
The melanocyte-stimulating hormones are a class of peptide hormones that are produced by cells in the intermediate lobe of the pituitary gland...
given by subcutaneous injection
Injection (medicine)
An injection is an infusion method of putting fluid into the body, usually with a hollow needle and a syringe which is pierced through the skin to a sufficient depth for the material to be forced into the body...
. Skin tanning appears possible without potentially harmful exposure to ultraviolet radiation."
Afamelanotide in a subcutaneous implant form is currently undergoing clinical trials and being developed by a company in Australia.
Temporary bronzers
Bronzers are a temporary sunless tanning or bronzing option. These come in powders, sprays, mousse, gels, lotions and moisturizers. Once applied, they create a tan that can easily be removed with soap and water. Like make-up, these products tint or stain your skin only until they are washed off.They are often used for a "one-day" only tan, or to complement a DHA based sunless tan. Many formulations are available, and some have limited sweat or light water resistance. Most will create some light but visible rub-off onto snug clothing. Therefore they should not be applied under clothing, or where fabric and skin edges meet. Dark clothing will prevent the rub-off from being noticeable. While these products are much safer than tanning beds, the color produced can sometimes look orangey and splotchy if applied incorrectly.
A recent trend is that of lotions or moisturizers containing a gradual tanning agent. A slight increase in color is usually observable after the first use, but color will continue to darken the more the product is used.
Air Brush tanning is a spray on tan done by a professional. It can last five to ten days fading with every shower. It is used for special occasions or to get a quick dark tan. At-home airbrush tanning kits and aerosol mists are also now available.
Risks
Most sunless tanning products do not contain sunscreenSunscreen
Sunblock is a lotion, spray, gel or other topical product that absorbs or reflects some of the sun's ultraviolet radiation on the skin exposed to sunlight and thus helps protect against sunburn...
, therefore, they do not provide any protection against ultraviolet rays when the person is outdoors. To offer protection against UV rays the tanner should contain an SPF. The ingredients known to offer appropriate protection are titanium dioxide
Titanium dioxide
Titanium dioxide, also known as titanium oxide or titania, is the naturally occurring oxide of titanium, chemical formula . When used as a pigment, it is called titanium white, Pigment White 6, or CI 77891. Generally it comes in two different forms, rutile and anatase. It has a wide range of...
, zinc oxide
Zinc oxide
Zinc oxide is an inorganic compound with the formula ZnO. It is a white powder that is insoluble in water. The powder is widely used as an additive into numerous materials and products including plastics, ceramics, glass, cement, rubber , lubricants, paints, ointments, adhesives, sealants,...
, or avobenzone
Avobenzone
Avobenzone is an oil soluble ingredient used in sunscreen products to absorb the full spectrum of UVA rays....
.
Risks of inhaling or ingesting DHA are not known. People are advised to close their eyes or protect them with goggles
Goggles
Goggles or safety glasses are forms of protective eyewear that usually enclose or protect the area surrounding the eye in order to prevent particulates, water or chemicals from striking the eyes. They are used in chemistry laboratories and in woodworking. They are often used in snow sports as well,...
and to hold their breath or wear nose plugs while they have a spray-on tanning applied.
Many self tanners use chemical fragrances which may cause skin allergies or may trigger asthma
Asthma
Asthma is the common chronic inflammatory disease of the airways characterized by variable and recurring symptoms, reversible airflow obstruction, and bronchospasm. Symptoms include wheezing, coughing, chest tightness, and shortness of breath...
. Furthermore, some of them contain parabens
Parabens
Parabens are a class of chemicals widely used as preservatives in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Parabens are effective preservatives in many types of formulas. These compounds, and their salts, are used primarily for their bactericidal and fungicidal properties...
. Parabens are preservatives that can affect the endocrine system
Endocrine system
In physiology, the endocrine system is a system of glands, each of which secretes a type of hormone directly into the bloodstream to regulate the body. The endocrine system is in contrast to the exocrine system, which secretes its chemicals using ducts. It derives from the Greek words "endo"...
.
Tanners can stain clothes. It is therefore important to look for fast drying formulas and wait around 10 to 15 minutes for the product to dry before dressing.
For the 24 hours after self-tanner (containing high DHA levels, ~5%) is applied, the skin is especially susceptible to free-radical damage from sunlight, according to a 2007 study led by Katinka Jung of the Gematria Test Lab in Berlin. Forty minutes after the researchers treated skin samples with high levels of DHA they found that more than 180 percent additional free radicals formed during sun exposure compared with untreated skin.