Swanndri
Encyclopedia
Swanndri is a trade name for a range of popular New Zealand
outdoor clothing
.
The item was widely worn by farmers, but in recent years its popularity has spread and it has become something of a fashion
item. The Swanndri company also now produces a range of more urban-focussed garments.
The classic "swanny" or bush shirt is a heavy wool
len garment with a lace up section at the neck. Although a wide range of colours and patterns are available, the traditional swanny pattern is a dark tartan
which could be described as a 'reverse gingham', with thick criss-crossing stripes of either blue or red over a black base.
garment.
Broom, born in Staffordshire
, England
, immigrated to New Zealand
at age 21. A tailor by trade, he established a clothier and outfitters business, The Palatine that was located on Devon Street, New Plymouth
. Part of his business involved sewing woolen fabric from mills in Wanganui
, Kaiapoi
and Wellington
, into the Swanndri garments. The characteristics of the “swanny” design include its heavy dark fabric, often in a tartan pattern and ties up around the neck. In more recent designs, a zipper has replaced the ties. The original design was short sleeved, long in the back, and would be worn on top of work clothes for warmth and shower proofing. During production, these garments were dipped into a mixture of dissolved chemicals and then dried. It is not known if Broome had been taught the method for shower proofing the fabric he used or whether he developed the formula himself. Unfortunately, the mixture caused the garments to shrink, making it difficult to determine size. Consequently they were sold as one size fits all.
In 1938, Broome transferred the business to his wife, Ivy. Broome himself died four years later at aged 69 years. In 1952, Ivy sold the business and trademark to John McKendrick, who operated a clothing factory at Waitara
. McKendrick began purchasing fabric that was closely woven and pre-shrunk which enabled him to make different pattern sizes and garments. He sourced his cloth from South Island-based Alliance textiles, and the business expanded with factories in Waitara
and Opunake
. Alliance purchased Swanndri in 1991 when McKendrick retired and continued for a few years until production centered in Timaru
and the Taranaki operation closed. In 1994, Swanndri New Zealand Ltd purchase the brand from Alliance Textiles.
According to the Swanndri’s corporate history, Broome’s design began after he was frustrated by the persistently rainy New Zealand
weather. The name Swanndri was named by Broome because the rain would literally run off the back of the garment as it does on a swan
. Although new colors and features have been incorporated into the Swanndri, Broom’s original design influence can still be seen in New Zealand
and among other producers around the world.
Thus, the manufacturer no longer qualifies for the NZ government's "Kiwi-made status". This says that to be genuinely "Kiwi-made" "New Zealand must be the place of origin of the goods or services in accordance with sections 9
and 13(j) of the Fair Trading Act 1986
. “A place of origin can be defined as the country or region where the product was created in its final form from its raw materials or constituent parts. In other words, it is the country or region where the product's 'essential quality' was created. It is not necessarily the place where the most money was spent on a product - and it is not the place where only final assembly or packaging was done”
New Zealand
New Zealand is an island country in the south-western Pacific Ocean comprising two main landmasses and numerous smaller islands. The country is situated some east of Australia across the Tasman Sea, and roughly south of the Pacific island nations of New Caledonia, Fiji, and Tonga...
outdoor clothing
Clothing
Clothing refers to any covering for the human body that is worn. The wearing of clothing is exclusively a human characteristic and is a feature of nearly all human societies...
.
The item was widely worn by farmers, but in recent years its popularity has spread and it has become something of a fashion
Fashion
Fashion, a general term for a currently popular style or practice, especially in clothing, foot wear, or accessories. Fashion references to anything that is the current trend in look and dress up of a person...
item. The Swanndri company also now produces a range of more urban-focussed garments.
The classic "swanny" or bush shirt is a heavy wool
Wool
Wool is the textile fiber obtained from sheep and certain other animals, including cashmere from goats, mohair from goats, qiviut from muskoxen, vicuña, alpaca, camel from animals in the camel family, and angora from rabbits....
len garment with a lace up section at the neck. Although a wide range of colours and patterns are available, the traditional swanny pattern is a dark tartan
Tartan
Tartan is a pattern consisting of criss-crossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours. Tartans originated in woven wool, but now they are made in many other materials. Tartan is particularly associated with Scotland. Scottish kilts almost always have tartan patterns...
which could be described as a 'reverse gingham', with thick criss-crossing stripes of either blue or red over a black base.
History
The Swanndri, or “swanny” as it has been dubbed, was designed by William Broome (1873–1942). Since he registered Swanndri as a trademark on December 23, 1913, it has become an iconic New ZealandNew Zealand
New Zealand is an island country in the south-western Pacific Ocean comprising two main landmasses and numerous smaller islands. The country is situated some east of Australia across the Tasman Sea, and roughly south of the Pacific island nations of New Caledonia, Fiji, and Tonga...
garment.
Broom, born in Staffordshire
Staffordshire
Staffordshire is a landlocked county in the West Midlands region of England. For Eurostat purposes, the county is a NUTS 3 region and is one of four counties or unitary districts that comprise the "Shropshire and Staffordshire" NUTS 2 region. Part of the National Forest lies within its borders...
, England
England
England is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. It shares land borders with Scotland to the north and Wales to the west; the Irish Sea is to the north west, the Celtic Sea to the south west, with the North Sea to the east and the English Channel to the south separating it from continental...
, immigrated to New Zealand
New Zealand
New Zealand is an island country in the south-western Pacific Ocean comprising two main landmasses and numerous smaller islands. The country is situated some east of Australia across the Tasman Sea, and roughly south of the Pacific island nations of New Caledonia, Fiji, and Tonga...
at age 21. A tailor by trade, he established a clothier and outfitters business, The Palatine that was located on Devon Street, New Plymouth
New Plymouth
New Plymouth is the major city of the Taranaki Region on the west coast of the North Island of New Zealand. It is named after Plymouth, Devon, England, from where the first English settlers migrated....
. Part of his business involved sewing woolen fabric from mills in Wanganui
Wanganui
Whanganui , also spelled Wanganui, is an urban area and district on the west coast of the North Island of New Zealand. It is part of the Manawatu-Wanganui region....
, Kaiapoi
Kaiapoi
Kaiapoi is a town in the Canterbury region of the South Island of New Zealand, located close to the mouth of the Waimakariri River, and approximately 17 kilometres north of Christchurch....
and Wellington
Wellington
Wellington is the capital city and third most populous urban area of New Zealand, although it is likely to have surpassed Christchurch due to the exodus following the Canterbury Earthquake. It is at the southwestern tip of the North Island, between Cook Strait and the Rimutaka Range...
, into the Swanndri garments. The characteristics of the “swanny” design include its heavy dark fabric, often in a tartan pattern and ties up around the neck. In more recent designs, a zipper has replaced the ties. The original design was short sleeved, long in the back, and would be worn on top of work clothes for warmth and shower proofing. During production, these garments were dipped into a mixture of dissolved chemicals and then dried. It is not known if Broome had been taught the method for shower proofing the fabric he used or whether he developed the formula himself. Unfortunately, the mixture caused the garments to shrink, making it difficult to determine size. Consequently they were sold as one size fits all.
In 1938, Broome transferred the business to his wife, Ivy. Broome himself died four years later at aged 69 years. In 1952, Ivy sold the business and trademark to John McKendrick, who operated a clothing factory at Waitara
Waitara, New Zealand
Waitara is the name of a town and a river in the northern part of the Taranaki Region of the North Island of New Zealand. Waitara is located just off State Highway 3, 15 km northeast of New Plymouth....
. McKendrick began purchasing fabric that was closely woven and pre-shrunk which enabled him to make different pattern sizes and garments. He sourced his cloth from South Island-based Alliance textiles, and the business expanded with factories in Waitara
Waitara, New Zealand
Waitara is the name of a town and a river in the northern part of the Taranaki Region of the North Island of New Zealand. Waitara is located just off State Highway 3, 15 km northeast of New Plymouth....
and Opunake
Opunake
Opunake is a small town on the southwest coast of Taranaki in New Zealand's North Island. It is located 45 kilometres southwest of New Plymouth. Rahotu is 16 km to the northwest. Manaia is 29 km to the southeast. State Highway 45 passes through the town.The population was 1368 in the...
. Alliance purchased Swanndri in 1991 when McKendrick retired and continued for a few years until production centered in Timaru
Timaru
TimaruUrban AreaPopulation:27,200Extent:Former Timaru City CouncilTerritorial AuthorityName:Timaru District CouncilPopulation:42,867 Land area:2,736.54 km² Mayor:Janie AnnearWebsite:...
and the Taranaki operation closed. In 1994, Swanndri New Zealand Ltd purchase the brand from Alliance Textiles.
According to the Swanndri’s corporate history, Broome’s design began after he was frustrated by the persistently rainy New Zealand
New Zealand
New Zealand is an island country in the south-western Pacific Ocean comprising two main landmasses and numerous smaller islands. The country is situated some east of Australia across the Tasman Sea, and roughly south of the Pacific island nations of New Caledonia, Fiji, and Tonga...
weather. The name Swanndri was named by Broome because the rain would literally run off the back of the garment as it does on a swan
Swan
Swans, genus Cygnus, are birds of the family Anatidae, which also includes geese and ducks. Swans are grouped with the closely related geese in the subfamily Anserinae where they form the tribe Cygnini. Sometimes, they are considered a distinct subfamily, Cygninae...
. Although new colors and features have been incorporated into the Swanndri, Broom’s original design influence can still be seen in New Zealand
New Zealand
New Zealand is an island country in the south-western Pacific Ocean comprising two main landmasses and numerous smaller islands. The country is situated some east of Australia across the Tasman Sea, and roughly south of the Pacific island nations of New Caledonia, Fiji, and Tonga...
and among other producers around the world.
Recent history
Swanndri has been outsourcing its production to China since 2005. While the packaging and postage reinforces the NZ connection, the washing instructions contain the phrase "Final construction in China to Swanndri NZ standards".Thus, the manufacturer no longer qualifies for the NZ government's "Kiwi-made status". This says that to be genuinely "Kiwi-made" "New Zealand must be the place of origin of the goods or services in accordance with sections 9
and 13(j) of the Fair Trading Act 1986
Fair Trading Act 1986
The Fair Trading Act 1986 is a statute of New Zealand. Its purpose is to encourage competition and to protect consumers from misleading and deceptive conduct and unfair trade practices.The Fair Trading Act provides for consumer information standards....
. “A place of origin can be defined as the country or region where the product was created in its final form from its raw materials or constituent parts. In other words, it is the country or region where the product's 'essential quality' was created. It is not necessarily the place where the most money was spent on a product - and it is not the place where only final assembly or packaging was done”
External links
- Swanndri company home page
- Interview with grandson of the founder
- Information about Swanndri, from the exhibition On The Sheep's Back, by Te PapaTe PapaTe Papa can signify:* Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa, the national museum of New Zealand, located in Wellington* Te Papa, Tuvalu, a cape on Nanumanga, Tuvalu...
museum - http://www.comcom.govt.nz//Publications/ContentFiles/Documents/Fair%20Trading%20Guide%2020080.pdf NZ Govt. Fair Trading Act 1986