Tom Patey
Encyclopedia
Tom Patey was a Scottish
climber
, mountaineer
and writer
. Although he was a leading Scottish climber of his day, particularly excelling on winter routes, he his probably best known for his humorous songs and prose about climbing, many of which were published posthumously in the collection One Man's Mountains.
He was born in Scotland
and educated in Aberdeen
at Ellon Academy
and Robert Gordon's College
. He first became interested in climbing while he was in the Scouts
, but it was at the University of Aberdeen
, where he trained as a doctor, that he first revealed his full talent as an exploratory climber, captaining the Lairig Club. Much of his early exploratory routes were on Lochnagar
and neighboring Cairngorms
. A dedicated climber he often dropped all other commitments for the prospect of a good climb.
Patey's preference of travelling light extended to leaving his gloves behind on some ice climbs and he had a disrespect for climbing ropes unless they were necessary.
He climbed extensively in Scotland, (making the first winter traverse of the Cuillin
ridge with Hamish MacInnes
, David Crabbe and Brian Robertson in 1965), as well as achieving notable ascents in the Alps
and the Karakoram
including the first ascent of the Muztagh Tower
(7273m) with John Hartog, Joe Bown and Ian MacNaught-Davis in 1956 and Rakaposhi
(7788m) in 1958 with Mike Banks
. In 1967, he and the photographer John Cleare were the first to climb Am Buachaille
, a sea stack off the coast of Sutherland
. He, Rusty Baillie and Chris Bonington
pioneered the route up the Old Man of Hoy
which was repeated with others on a live televised BBC
outside broadcast on July 8-9 1967. At the time of his death he was working as a local GP
in Ullapool
, in the far north-west of Scotland. He was killed abseiling from The Maiden, a sea stack off Whiten Head on the Sutherland coast.
Scotland
Scotland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Occupying the northern third of the island of Great Britain, it shares a border with England to the south and is bounded by the North Sea to the east, the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, and the North Channel and Irish Sea to the...
climber
Climbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...
, mountaineer
Mountaineer
-Sports:*Mountaineering, the sport, hobby or profession of walking, hiking, trekking and climbing up mountains, also known as alpinism-University athletic teams and mascots:*Appalachian State Mountaineers, the athletic teams of Appalachian State University...
and writer
Writer
A writer is a person who produces literature, such as novels, short stories, plays, screenplays, poetry, or other literary art. Skilled writers are able to use language to portray ideas and images....
. Although he was a leading Scottish climber of his day, particularly excelling on winter routes, he his probably best known for his humorous songs and prose about climbing, many of which were published posthumously in the collection One Man's Mountains.
He was born in Scotland
Scotland
Scotland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Occupying the northern third of the island of Great Britain, it shares a border with England to the south and is bounded by the North Sea to the east, the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, and the North Channel and Irish Sea to the...
and educated in Aberdeen
Aberdeen
Aberdeen is Scotland's third most populous city, one of Scotland's 32 local government council areas and the United Kingdom's 25th most populous city, with an official population estimate of ....
at Ellon Academy
Ellon Academy
Ellon Academy is a secondary comprehensive school in the Aberdeenshire town of Ellon.-History:Founded as Ellon Public School, the building was opened at 10:00AM, on 22 May 1876. It was responsible for the education of both primary and secondary students, and it wasn't until 1962 that the two were...
and Robert Gordon's College
Robert Gordon's College
Robert Gordon's College is a private co-educational day school in Aberdeen, Scotland. The school caters for pupils from Nursery-S6.-History:...
. He first became interested in climbing while he was in the Scouts
The Scout Association
The Scout Association is the World Organization of the Scout Movement recognised Scouting association in the United Kingdom. Scouting began in 1907 through the efforts of Robert Baden-Powell. The Scout Association was formed under its previous name, The Boy Scout Association, in 1910 by the grant...
, but it was at the University of Aberdeen
University of Aberdeen
The University of Aberdeen, an ancient university founded in 1495, in Aberdeen, Scotland, is a British university. It is the third oldest university in Scotland, and the fifth oldest in the United Kingdom and wider English-speaking world...
, where he trained as a doctor, that he first revealed his full talent as an exploratory climber, captaining the Lairig Club. Much of his early exploratory routes were on Lochnagar
Lochnagar
Lochnagar or Beinn Chìochan is a mountain in the Grampians of Scotland, located about five miles south of the River Dee near Balmoral.-Names:...
and neighboring Cairngorms
Cairngorms
The Cairngorms are a mountain range in the eastern Highlands of Scotland closely associated with the mountain of the same name - Cairn Gorm.-Name:...
. A dedicated climber he often dropped all other commitments for the prospect of a good climb.
Patey's preference of travelling light extended to leaving his gloves behind on some ice climbs and he had a disrespect for climbing ropes unless they were necessary.
He climbed extensively in Scotland, (making the first winter traverse of the Cuillin
Cuillin
This article is about the Cuillin of Skye. See Rùm for the Cuillin of Rùm.The Cuillin are a range of rocky mountains located on the Isle of Skye in Scotland. The true Cuillin are also known as the Black Cuillin to distinguish them from the Red Hills across Glen Sligachan...
ridge with Hamish MacInnes
Hamish MacInnes
Dr Hamish MacInnes is a Scottish mountaineer, leading mountain search and rescuer, author and advisor. He is the leading Scottish winter mountaineer of the generation following W. H. Murray....
, David Crabbe and Brian Robertson in 1965), as well as achieving notable ascents in the Alps
Alps
The Alps is one of the great mountain range systems of Europe, stretching from Austria and Slovenia in the east through Italy, Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Germany to France in the west....
and the Karakoram
Karakoram
The Karakoram, or Karakorum , is a large mountain range spanning the borders between Pakistan, India and China, located in the regions of Gilgit-Baltistan , Ladakh , and Xinjiang region,...
including the first ascent of the Muztagh Tower
Muztagh Tower
Muztagh Tower , is a mountain in the Baltoro Muztagh, part of the Karakoram range on the border of the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan and the Xinjiang Uygur region of China...
(7273m) with John Hartog, Joe Bown and Ian MacNaught-Davis in 1956 and Rakaposhi
Rakaposhi
Rakaposhi , is a mountain in the Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan. It is situated in the Nagar Valley approximately 100 km north of the city of Gilgit in the Gilgit District of the Gilgit-Baltistan province of Pakistan. Rakaposhi means "Snow Covered" in the local language. Rakaposhi is...
(7788m) in 1958 with Mike Banks
Mike Banks (mountaineer)
Mike Banks is a British climber and mountaineer. He has climbed in all continents and the Arctic. During his career as an officer in the Royal Marines, he was a member of the British North Greenland Expedition ....
. In 1967, he and the photographer John Cleare were the first to climb Am Buachaille
Am Buachaille
Am Buachaille is a sea stack, or vertical rock formation, near Sandwood Bay in the Scottish county of Sutherland at . It was first climbed in 1968 by the mountaineers Tom Patey and Ian Clough. The name means "The herdsman" in Scottish Gaelic.-External links:...
, a sea stack off the coast of Sutherland
Sutherland
Sutherland is a registration county, lieutenancy area and historic administrative county of Scotland. It is now within the Highland local government area. In Gaelic the area is referred to according to its traditional areas: Dùthaich 'IcAoidh , Asainte , and Cataibh...
. He, Rusty Baillie and Chris Bonington
Chris Bonington
Sir Christian John Storey Bonington, CVO, CBE, DL is a British mountaineer.His career has included nineteen expeditions to the Himalayas, including four to Mount Everest and the first ascent of the south face of Annapurna.-Early life and expeditions:Educated at University College School in...
pioneered the route up the Old Man of Hoy
Old Man of Hoy
The Old Man of Hoy is a sea stack of red sandstone perched on a plinth of igneous basalt rock, close to Rackwick Bay on the west coast of the island of Hoy, in the Orkney Islands, Scotland. It is a distinctive landmark seen from the Thurso to Stromness ferry, MV Hamnavoe, and is a famous rock climb...
which was repeated with others on a live televised BBC
BBC
The British Broadcasting Corporation is a British public service broadcaster. Its headquarters is at Broadcasting House in the City of Westminster, London. It is the largest broadcaster in the world, with about 23,000 staff...
outside broadcast on July 8-9 1967. At the time of his death he was working as a local GP
General practitioner
A general practitioner is a medical practitioner who treats acute and chronic illnesses and provides preventive care and health education for all ages and both sexes. They have particular skills in treating people with multiple health issues and comorbidities...
in Ullapool
Ullapool
Ullapool is a small town of around 1,300 inhabitants in Ross and Cromarty, Highland, Scotland. Despite its small size, it is the largest settlement for many miles around, and is a major tourist destination of Scotland. The North Atlantic Drift passes by Ullapool, bringing moderate temperatures...
, in the far north-west of Scotland. He was killed abseiling from The Maiden, a sea stack off Whiten Head on the Sutherland coast.