Undergraduate gowns in Scotland
Encyclopedia
Academic dress
Academic dress or academical dress is a traditional form of clothing for academic settings, primarily tertiary education, worn mainly by those that have been admitted to a university degree or hold a status that entitles them to assume them...
for students at the ancient universities in Scotland
Scotland
Scotland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Occupying the northern third of the island of Great Britain, it shares a border with England to the south and is bounded by the North Sea to the east, the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, and the North Channel and Irish Sea to the...
.
The most famous form of Scottish undergraduate dress is the red
Red
Red is any of a number of similar colors evoked by light consisting predominantly of the longest wavelengths of light discernible by the human eye, in the wavelength range of roughly 630–740 nm. Longer wavelengths than this are called infrared , and cannot be seen by the naked eye...
or scarlet
Scarlet (color)
Scarlet is a bright red color with a hue that is somewhat toward the orange. It is redder than vermilion. It is a pure chroma on the color wheel one-fourth of the way between red and orange. Scarlet is sometimes used as the color of flame...
gown. It is differenced slightly according to the university at which it is worn. These gowns are worn by students of the University of St Andrews, Glasgow, Aberdeen, Edinburgh and Dundee.
History
It is likely that pre-Reformation undergraduates would have worn a black supertunica in common with students at all European universities of the time. By the latter part of James VI's reign, this had formalised into scarlet. Traditionally, the red colour was symbolic of a lower status, and was particularly visible. The post-Reformation gown evolved as a uniform for students, its visibility preventing them from engaging in illicit activities in their university towns.In his work, A tour thro' the Whole Island of Great Britain
A tour thro' the Whole Island of Great Britain
A tour thro' the whole island of Great Britain is an account of his travels by English author Daniel Defoe, first published in three volumes between 1724 and 1727....
, Daniel Defoe
Daniel Defoe
Daniel Defoe , born Daniel Foe, was an English trader, writer, journalist, and pamphleteer, who gained fame for his novel Robinson Crusoe. Defoe is notable for being one of the earliest proponents of the novel, as he helped to popularise the form in Britain and along with others such as Richardson,...
notes the presence of the gowns at the Universities of Glasgow and St Andrews in the early 18th century, but also their absence at Edinburgh.
In reference to the University of Glasgow:
- "Here is a principal, with regents and professors in every science, as there is at Edinburgh, and the scholars wear gowns, which they do not at Edinburgh. Their gowns here are red, but the Masters of Arts, and professors, wear black gowns, with a large cape of velvet to distinguish them."
In reference to the University of St Andrews:
- "the students wear gowns here of a scarlet-like colour, but not in grain, and are very numerous"
The "toga ruba" name, mainly popular at Aberdeen, was also used more widely, and declined with educational reform. A significant example of this is the actions of John Anderson
John H. D. Anderson
John Anderson was a Scottish natural philosopherand liberal educator at the forefront of the application of science to technology in the industrial revolution, and of the education and advancement of working men and women....
, a professor at the University of Glasgow and founder of what went on to become the University of Strathclyde
University of Strathclyde
The University of Strathclyde , Glasgow, Scotland, is Glasgow's second university by age, founded in 1796, and receiving its Royal Charter in 1964 as the UK's first technological university...
. During his tenure he opened up lectures specifically to cater to the working population of Glasgow, and in order to make their attendance more straightforward certain formalities, such as the red gown, were dispensed with - a move which was looked upon unfavourably by university authorities. As such, these became known as his "Anti-toga classes".
University of Glasgow
The University of Glasgow's undergraduate gown is as follows: "Scarlet cloth, with full sleeves half the length of the gown. A difference indicating the Faculty may be worn in the form of a narrow band of silk on the breast of each side of the gown of the colour of the hood-lining proper to the lowest degree in the Faculty".University of Aberdeen
At the University of AberdeenUniversity of Aberdeen
The University of Aberdeen, an ancient university founded in 1495, in Aberdeen, Scotland, is a British university. It is the third oldest university in Scotland, and the fifth oldest in the United Kingdom and wider English-speaking world...
, and particularly within the predecessor King's College
King's College, Aberdeen
King's College in Old Aberdeen, Scotland is a formerly independent university founded in 1495 and an integral part of the University of Aberdeen...
the gown (or toga rubra) has had varied fortunes over the years. During one of the slumps in its use in 1885 it was noted that fewer than one-quarter of students wore it and that its wear was largely restricted to arts students at King's College. Regulations existed compelling gown-wearing amongst students, although were rarely enforced. In 1888, a plebcite was organised at King's by the Students' Representative Council
Students' Representative Council
A Students' Representative Council represents student interests in the government of a university, school or other educational institution. Generally the SRC forms part of a broader Students' Association which may include other functions such as societies, entertainments and sports Universities...
, which continued to support compulsion by 258 votes to 32, and was recognised by the University's Senate. This was to little avail, with the gown still not becoming universal as it had been previously, and remaining subject to fashion. In the 1850s, Sir George Reid
George Reid (Scottish artist)
-Early life and education:Reid was born in Aberdeen in 1841. He developed an early passion for drawing, which led to his being apprenticed in 1854 for seven years to Messrs Keith & Gibb, lithographers in Aberdeen...
painted an image of an Aberdeen student in the gown, entitled "Salve Toga Rubra".
The toga was criticised as being unsuited to the climate of Aberdeen. It was considered proper amongst students to wear an old and worn gown. A tradition of 'gown-tearing' by older students to new 'bajans' (first years) therefore developed. Matriculation at Aberdeen traditionally occurred on the first Sunday of term; out of enforced respect for Sabbath, students would wait until the following Monday to engage in a 'tearing day'. Despite the cost of gowns, attempts to outlaw this practice were difficult to enforce, particularly as all students of the era carried a penknife in order to mend quill
Quill
A quill pen is a writing implement made from a flight feather of a large bird. Quills were used for writing with ink before the invention of the dip pen, metal-nibbed pens, the fountain pen, and, eventually, the ballpoint pen...
s.
Opposition to the gown was also evident, during a 1922 attempt to build 'Varsity Spirit' and restore to wide use the 'traditional and honoured dress' of students, an anti-gown group was formed to protest at its restoration to prominence. In 1924, their views were aired in the university newspaper, stating:
-
- "when we leave the gates of King's we become citizens of Aberdeen in this year of grace 1924, and we ought to dress as such. We ought to do nothing which might serve to separate or to alienate us from the general body the citizens'
This element of separation often caused gowned students to be jeered by the local children of the city.
Use
The undergraduate gown has lost popularity at different times in the different universities. The requirements of town residence made it impractical, however the more isolated locations of Aberdeen and St Andrews (and by extension, Dundee) ensured a longer heritage.At present, the gowns are most commonly a feature associated with the University of St Andrews where they are very commonly worn by students to formal events, pier walks and exams. They are only very rarely found in everyday usage at the other institutions, although are still occasionally seen worn by debaters, societies, student representatives, choirs and attendees at formal events and chapel services. It is perhaps most commonly seen at academic ceremonies, particularly in relation to the installation of a new Rector.
The undergraduate style influences several gowns of office, particularly for members of Students' Representative Council
Students' Representative Council
A Students' Representative Council represents student interests in the government of a university, school or other educational institution. Generally the SRC forms part of a broader Students' Association which may include other functions such as societies, entertainments and sports Universities...
s and Rectors.
Appearance
Colour
The colour of the red undergraduate gown is rarely defined precisely, however the University of DundeeUniversity of Dundee
The University of Dundee is a university based in the city and Royal burgh of Dundee on eastern coast of the central Lowlands of Scotland and with a small number of institutions elsewhere....
and the University of St Andrews
University of St Andrews
The University of St Andrews, informally referred to as "St Andrews", is the oldest university in Scotland and the third oldest in the English-speaking world after Oxford and Cambridge. The university is situated in the town of St Andrews, Fife, on the east coast of Scotland. It was founded between...
set the correct colour as "Union Jack red" (BCC210).
Differencing
There are several differences between the gowns at the various universities, including:- Aberdeen - The gown is shorter than others and is often referred to as a "toga rubra" or simply a toga. The gown was captured in the painting Salve Toga Rubra by Sir George Reid, viewable here; it is an amalgamation of the gowns of King's College, AberdeenKing's College, AberdeenKing's College in Old Aberdeen, Scotland is a formerly independent university founded in 1495 and an integral part of the University of Aberdeen...
and Marischal CollegeMarischal CollegeMarischal College is a building and former university in the centre of the city of Aberdeen in north-east Scotland. The building is owned by the University of Aberdeen and used for ceremonial events...
, the Aberdeen University Review stating that the velvet collar is associated with Marischal and the arms associated with the King's gown. - Dundee - The student gown is described in the University Handbook as '"A gown of nap material in Union Jack red (BCC210) with cape sleeves and with a yoke and collar and abbreviated square patch facings in serge or flannel of Stewart blue."'
- Edinburgh - The gown is entirely scarlet.
- Glasgow - Permits a "narrow band of silk on the breast of each side of the gown of the colour of the hood-lining proper to the lowest degree in the Faculty" to adorn the gown.
- St Andrews - the gown has a maroonMaroon (color)Maroon is a dark red color.-Etymology:Maroon is derived from French marron .The first recorded use of maroon as a color name in English was in 1789.-Maroon :...
yoke and collar.
- The various colleges of St Andrews wear differing gowns; the distinction between United College and Queen's College existed even before the latter became independent as the University of Dundee. Today, the students of St Mary's CollegeSt Mary's College, St AndrewsSt Mary's College of the University of St Andrews, in Fife, Scotland - in full, the New College of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary - was founded in 1538 by Archbishop James Beaton, uncle of Cardinal David Beaton on the site of the pedagogy or St Johns College .St Mary's College was...
(the Faculty of Divinity) wear a simple black gown with a purple/crimson St Andrews cross on the left breast. The members of the non-statutory St Leonard's College are not entitled to wear the red gown as the college has no undergraduates amongst its number.
Gowns of office
Many universities also have gowns of office for their student representatives. These are often variants inspired by the red gown, often differenced by facings.The Glasgow University Students' Representative Council
Glasgow University Students' Representative Council
Glasgow University Students' Representative Council was founded on 9th March 1886 and recognised as the legal representative body for students of the University of Glasgow by the Universities Act 1889. The SRC is responsible for representing students' interests to the management of the University...
executive uses wholly purple gowns. Full listings of gowns worn by the University of St Andrews Students' Association
University of St Andrews Students' Association
The University of St Andrews Students' Association was founded in 1864, and is the oldest students' union in the world.-Management:The Association is run by a student-majority Board and four sabbatical officers, each responsible for a separate aspect of student life: the Director of Representation...
are available at the Academic dress of the University of St Andrews
Academic dress of the University of St Andrews
Academic dress at the University of St Andrews is an important part of university life. The University of St Andrews was founded between 1410 and 1413, being the oldest of the ancient universities of Scotland and the third oldest university in the English-speaking world.-Use of academic...
entry.
Other undergraduate gowns
- St Mary's CollegeSt Mary's College, St AndrewsSt Mary's College of the University of St Andrews, in Fife, Scotland - in full, the New College of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary - was founded in 1538 by Archbishop James Beaton, uncle of Cardinal David Beaton on the site of the pedagogy or St Johns College .St Mary's College was...
at the University of St Andrews, that is to say the New College of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, (in effect, the faculty of divinity) uses plain black gowns for its undergraduates. The gown is described as being made of black stuff, knee length with short open sleeves and with a violet cross of St Andrew on the left facing. The colour of the cross corresponds to the material used for hoods in the Faculty of Divinity. Black lined with violet (MTheol) and Violet with the cowl and apron edged with white fur (BD). The reason for this gown being black, despite being an undergraduate gown is that in times gone by all members of St Mary's College were graduates and so despite the fact that this is no longer the case, the black gown has been preserved.