Wealden cloth industry
Encyclopedia
Cloth-making was, apart from iron-making
, the other large-scale industry carried out on the Weald
of Kent and Sussex in medieval times. The ready availability of wool from the sheep of the Romney Marsh
, and the immigration from Flanders
in the fourteenth century of cloth-workers – places like Cranbrook
attracted hundreds of such skilled workers – ensured its place in Kentish industrial history. The industry spread along the Weald, and as far north as Maidstone
.
It was helped by the fact that Fuller's earth
deposits existed between Boxley
and Maidstone
: it being an essential raw material for de-greasing the wool. At the time the export of it was forbidden, lest it help their rivals.
Once the wool had been carded (to get rid of the tangles) and spun (both these processes could be done in the workpeople's own homes), it then required weaving
. Since that process required looms and the space to do it, 'clothier's halls' were required. These were, as is shown by the timber-framed clothier's hall at Biddenden
, often the length of the attics in the master clothier's house. After weaving it was fulled (using the Fuller's earth), and then dried. Once dry, the cloth was brushed with teasels
to get rid of loose threads; and finally the shearman cut off loose and projecting pieces of wool.
Regulations ensured the size and quality of the cloth offered for sale. Although regulation width was normally 63 inches (1.75 yards or 160 cm), Kentish broadcloth was only 58 inches (147 cm) wide. One piece was between 30–34 yards (27.5–31 m); and should weigh 66 pounds (30 kg). Officials known as 'ulnagers' were employed to pass each piece. The price of Kentish cloth at the start of the 17th Century was £12–16 per piece. One yard of cloth would be equal to a farmworker's wage for 2–3 weeks.
There is also a clothier's house in Cranbrook
. It has a separate building to house the looms.
Wealden iron industry
The Wealden iron industry was located in the Weald of south-eastern England. It was formerly an important industry, producing a large proportion of the bar iron made in England in the 16th century and most British cannon until about 1770. Ironmaking in the Weald used ironstone from various clay...
, the other large-scale industry carried out on the Weald
Weald
The Weald is the name given to an area in South East England situated between the parallel chalk escarpments of the North and the South Downs. It should be regarded as three separate parts: the sandstone "High Weald" in the centre; the clay "Low Weald" periphery; and the Greensand Ridge which...
of Kent and Sussex in medieval times. The ready availability of wool from the sheep of the Romney Marsh
Romney Marsh
Romney Marsh is a sparsely populated wetland area in the counties of Kent and East Sussex in the south-east of England. It covers about 100 mi ² .-Quotations:*“As Egypt was the gift of the Nile, this level tract .....
, and the immigration from Flanders
Flanders
Flanders is the community of the Flemings but also one of the institutions in Belgium, and a geographical region located in parts of present-day Belgium, France and the Netherlands. "Flanders" can also refer to the northern part of Belgium that contains Brussels, Bruges, Ghent and Antwerp...
in the fourteenth century of cloth-workers – places like Cranbrook
Cranbrook, Kent
Cranbrook is a small town in Kent in South East England which was granted a charter in 1290 by Archbishop Peckham, allowing it to hold a market in the High Street. Located on the Maidstone to Hastings road, it is five miles north of Hawkhurst. The smaller settlements of Swattenden, Colliers...
attracted hundreds of such skilled workers – ensured its place in Kentish industrial history. The industry spread along the Weald, and as far north as Maidstone
Maidstone
Maidstone is the county town of Kent, England, south-east of London. The River Medway runs through the centre of the town linking Maidstone to Rochester and the Thames Estuary. Historically, the river was a source and route for much of the town's trade. Maidstone was the centre of the agricultural...
.
It was helped by the fact that Fuller's earth
Fuller's earth
Fuller's earth is any non-plastic clay or claylike earthy material used to decolorize, filter, and purify animal, mineral, and vegetable oils and greases.-Occurrence and composition:...
deposits existed between Boxley
Boxley
The large village and civil parish of Boxley in the Maidstone District of Kent, England lies below the slope of the North Downs, four miles NE of Maidstone town...
and Maidstone
Maidstone
Maidstone is the county town of Kent, England, south-east of London. The River Medway runs through the centre of the town linking Maidstone to Rochester and the Thames Estuary. Historically, the river was a source and route for much of the town's trade. Maidstone was the centre of the agricultural...
: it being an essential raw material for de-greasing the wool. At the time the export of it was forbidden, lest it help their rivals.
Once the wool had been carded (to get rid of the tangles) and spun (both these processes could be done in the workpeople's own homes), it then required weaving
Weaving
Weaving is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. The other methods are knitting, lace making and felting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft or filling...
. Since that process required looms and the space to do it, 'clothier's halls' were required. These were, as is shown by the timber-framed clothier's hall at Biddenden
Biddenden
Biddenden is a village and civil parish in the Ashford District of Kent, England. The village lies on the Weald of Kent, some five miles north of Tenterden. It was centre for Wealden iron industry and also of clothmaking. During the reign of Edward III some Flemish clothworkers settled in the area...
, often the length of the attics in the master clothier's house. After weaving it was fulled (using the Fuller's earth), and then dried. Once dry, the cloth was brushed with teasels
Dipsacus
Dipsacus is a genus of flowering plant in the family Dipsacaceae. The members of this genus are known as teasel or teazel or teazle. The genus includes about 15 species of tall herbaceous biennial plants growing to tall...
to get rid of loose threads; and finally the shearman cut off loose and projecting pieces of wool.
Regulations ensured the size and quality of the cloth offered for sale. Although regulation width was normally 63 inches (1.75 yards or 160 cm), Kentish broadcloth was only 58 inches (147 cm) wide. One piece was between 30–34 yards (27.5–31 m); and should weigh 66 pounds (30 kg). Officials known as 'ulnagers' were employed to pass each piece. The price of Kentish cloth at the start of the 17th Century was £12–16 per piece. One yard of cloth would be equal to a farmworker's wage for 2–3 weeks.
There is also a clothier's house in Cranbrook
Cranbrook, Kent
Cranbrook is a small town in Kent in South East England which was granted a charter in 1290 by Archbishop Peckham, allowing it to hold a market in the High Street. Located on the Maidstone to Hastings road, it is five miles north of Hawkhurst. The smaller settlements of Swattenden, Colliers...
. It has a separate building to house the looms.