Wonsam
Encyclopedia
The wonsam is a female ceremonial topcoat
in hanbok
, Korean traditional clothing. It was worn by queens, high-ranking court ladies, and royalty during the Joseon Dynasty
of Korea
(1392-1910). It is also called 'daeui' (大衣, big clothing), 'daesu' (大袖, wide sleeves) and 'jangsam' (長衫, long clothing). The queen, princess consort, and consort to the first son of the crown prince wore it as a soryebok, a robe for small ceremonies, while wives of high officers and sanggung
(court matrons) wore it as daeryebok, a robe for major ceremonies.
The color and decorations of the garment around the chest, shoulders and back represent the wearer's rank. For example, the color yellow was used for the wonsam of empresses, red for queens, jajeok (紫赤 magenta) for concubines and princess consorts, and green for princesses and women of the noble yangban
class. Commoners were allowed to wear the green wonsam only for their wedding ceremony.
Varieties of silk were used as the fabric. Wonsam for winter were made with dan (緞), a thick silk
with a glossy surface formed with a satin weave
, and wonsam for summer were made with sa (紗), a loosely woven silk.
Unlike the po
, an indigenous Korean overcoat with narrow sleeves, the wonsam was based on an overcoat with broad sleeves of the Chinese
Tang Dynasty
. The Chinese clothing system was introduced to Korea when King Munmu
, the 30th king of the Silla Kingdom, reformed women’s clothing in 664 AD. As an adaptation from the original model, the wonsam gradually evolved into a distinctive form characteristic of traditional Korean clothing.
Today the wonsam is worn primarily in representations of Joseon royal ceremonies and as a wedding garment, and in a much simplified version when performing traditional Korean dances.
Topcoat
Topcoat may refer to:*A lightweight overcoat*The guard hairs of an animal's fur*A transparent or translucent coat of paint applied over the underlying material as a sealer...
in hanbok
Hanbok
Hanbok or Chosŏn-ot is the traditional Korean dress. It is often characterized by vibrant colors and simple lines without pockets. Although the term literally means "Korean clothing", hanbok today often refers specifically to hanbok of Joseon Dynasty and is worn as semi-formal or formal wear...
, Korean traditional clothing. It was worn by queens, high-ranking court ladies, and royalty during the Joseon Dynasty
Joseon Dynasty
Joseon , was a Korean state founded by Taejo Yi Seong-gye that lasted for approximately five centuries. It was founded in the aftermath of the overthrow of the Goryeo at what is today the city of Kaesong. Early on, Korea was retitled and the capital was relocated to modern-day Seoul...
of Korea
Korea
Korea ) is an East Asian geographic region that is currently divided into two separate sovereign states — North Korea and South Korea. Located on the Korean Peninsula, Korea is bordered by the People's Republic of China to the northwest, Russia to the northeast, and is separated from Japan to the...
(1392-1910). It is also called 'daeui' (大衣, big clothing), 'daesu' (大袖, wide sleeves) and 'jangsam' (長衫, long clothing). The queen, princess consort, and consort to the first son of the crown prince wore it as a soryebok, a robe for small ceremonies, while wives of high officers and sanggung
Sanggung
Sanggung was an official title of the senior 5th rank , the highest attainable for gungnyeo, a lady-in-waiting during the Joseon Dynasty of Korea. Female officers with the title were assigned to govern the inner affairs of the palace. When a regular nain served for more than 15 years, she would be...
(court matrons) wore it as daeryebok, a robe for major ceremonies.
The color and decorations of the garment around the chest, shoulders and back represent the wearer's rank. For example, the color yellow was used for the wonsam of empresses, red for queens, jajeok (紫赤 magenta) for concubines and princess consorts, and green for princesses and women of the noble yangban
Yangban
The yangban were part of the traditional ruling class or nobles of dynastic Korea during the Joseon Dynasty. The yangban were either landed or unlanded aristocracy who comprised the Korean Confucian idea of a "scholarly official." In reality, they were basically administrators and bureaucrats who...
class. Commoners were allowed to wear the green wonsam only for their wedding ceremony.
Varieties of silk were used as the fabric. Wonsam for winter were made with dan (緞), a thick silk
Silk
Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The best-known type of silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in captivity...
with a glossy surface formed with a satin weave
Satin weave
Satin weave is one of the three important textile weaves. The satin weave is distinguished by its lustrous, or 'silky', appearance...
, and wonsam for summer were made with sa (紗), a loosely woven silk.
Unlike the po
Po (clothing)
The po is a generic term referring to an outer robe or overcoat in hanbok, Korean traditional clothing, which was worn mostly by men since the Goryeo period until the Joseon period.-See also:*Jeogori*Dopo*Durumagi*Sagyusam*Jeonbok*Hanbok...
, an indigenous Korean overcoat with narrow sleeves, the wonsam was based on an overcoat with broad sleeves of the Chinese
China
Chinese civilization may refer to:* China for more general discussion of the country.* Chinese culture* Greater China, the transnational community of ethnic Chinese.* History of China* Sinosphere, the area historically affected by Chinese culture...
Tang Dynasty
Tang Dynasty
The Tang Dynasty was an imperial dynasty of China preceded by the Sui Dynasty and followed by the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms Period. It was founded by the Li family, who seized power during the decline and collapse of the Sui Empire...
. The Chinese clothing system was introduced to Korea when King Munmu
Munmu of Silla
Munmu of Silla was the thirtieth king of the Korean kingdom of Silla. He is usually considered to have been the first ruler of the Unified Silla period. Munmu was the son of King Muyeol and Munmyeong, who was the younger sister of Kim Yu-shin...
, the 30th king of the Silla Kingdom, reformed women’s clothing in 664 AD. As an adaptation from the original model, the wonsam gradually evolved into a distinctive form characteristic of traditional Korean clothing.
Today the wonsam is worn primarily in representations of Joseon royal ceremonies and as a wedding garment, and in a much simplified version when performing traditional Korean dances.