Yukshin Gardan Sar
Encyclopedia
Yukshin Gardan Sar is a high peak of the Hispar Muztagh
, a subrange of the Karakoram
range
in Pakistan
. Its height is also often given as 7,469 m (24,505 ft) or 7,641 m (25,069 ft). It lies about 15 km (9 mi) northeast of Khunyang Chhish
and 5 km (3 mi) northwest of Kanjut Sar
. It is flanked on the northwest by the Yazghil Glacier and on the northeast by the Yukshin Gardan Glacier; both drain into the Shimshal River.
Yukshin Gardan Sar was first climbed in 1984, by a Pakistan
i-Austria
n group, led by Rudolf Wurzer. They ascended via the South Ridge, which they accessed via the Yazghil Glacier on the west side of the peak.
The second ascent followed very shortly after the first, on July 23, 1984. A Pakistani-Japan
ese group that had been on the mountain simultaneously with the first ascent party switched from their unworkable North Ridge route to make an alpine style
ascent of the first ascent route on the South Ridge.
The third ascent of the peak was in 1986, by a Spanish
team comprising Alejandro Arranz, Iñaki Aldaya, Alfredo Zabalza, and Tomás Miguel. They used the same route as the first-ascent party. According to the Himalayan Index, there have been no other ascents or attempts on this peak since that time.
Hispar Muztagh
Hispar Muztagh is a sub-range of the Karakoram mountain range. It is located in the Gojal region of the Northern Areas of Pakistan, north of Hispar Glacier, south of Shimshal Valley, and east of the Hunza Valley. It is the second highest sub-range of the Karakoram, the highest being the Baltoro...
, a subrange of the Karakoram
Karakoram
The Karakoram, or Karakorum , is a large mountain range spanning the borders between Pakistan, India and China, located in the regions of Gilgit-Baltistan , Ladakh , and Xinjiang region,...
range
Mountain range
A mountain range is a single, large mass consisting of a succession of mountains or narrowly spaced mountain ridges, with or without peaks, closely related in position, direction, formation, and age; a component part of a mountain system or of a mountain chain...
in Pakistan
Pakistan
Pakistan , officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan is a sovereign state in South Asia. It has a coastline along the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Oman in the south and is bordered by Afghanistan and Iran in the west, India in the east and China in the far northeast. In the north, Tajikistan...
. Its height is also often given as 7,469 m (24,505 ft) or 7,641 m (25,069 ft). It lies about 15 km (9 mi) northeast of Khunyang Chhish
Khunyang Chhish
Khunyang Chhish or Kunyang Chhish is the second-highest mountain in the Hispar Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram mountains of Pakistan. Alternate variations of the name include Kunyang Kish and Khiangyang Kish, among others. Its height is also sometimes given as 7823m...
and 5 km (3 mi) northwest of Kanjut Sar
Kanjut Sar
Kanjut Sar is a mountain located in the Hispar Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram mountain range. It lies within the Gilgit-Baltistan province of Pakistan...
. It is flanked on the northwest by the Yazghil Glacier and on the northeast by the Yukshin Gardan Glacier; both drain into the Shimshal River.
Yukshin Gardan Sar was first climbed in 1984, by a Pakistan
Pakistan
Pakistan , officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan is a sovereign state in South Asia. It has a coastline along the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Oman in the south and is bordered by Afghanistan and Iran in the west, India in the east and China in the far northeast. In the north, Tajikistan...
i-Austria
Austria
Austria , officially the Republic of Austria , is a landlocked country of roughly 8.4 million people in Central Europe. It is bordered by the Czech Republic and Germany to the north, Slovakia and Hungary to the east, Slovenia and Italy to the south, and Switzerland and Liechtenstein to the...
n group, led by Rudolf Wurzer. They ascended via the South Ridge, which they accessed via the Yazghil Glacier on the west side of the peak.
The second ascent followed very shortly after the first, on July 23, 1984. A Pakistani-Japan
Japan
Japan is an island nation in East Asia. Located in the Pacific Ocean, it lies to the east of the Sea of Japan, China, North Korea, South Korea and Russia, stretching from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north to the East China Sea and Taiwan in the south...
ese group that had been on the mountain simultaneously with the first ascent party switched from their unworkable North Ridge route to make an alpine style
Alpine style
Alpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter, equipment etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure...
ascent of the first ascent route on the South Ridge.
The third ascent of the peak was in 1986, by a Spanish
Spain
Spain , officially the Kingdom of Spain languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Spain's official name is as follows:;;;;;;), is a country and member state of the European Union located in southwestern Europe on the Iberian Peninsula...
team comprising Alejandro Arranz, Iñaki Aldaya, Alfredo Zabalza, and Tomás Miguel. They used the same route as the first-ascent party. According to the Himalayan Index, there have been no other ascents or attempts on this peak since that time.