Aberdaron
Encyclopedia
Aberdaron is a community
and former fishing village at the western tip of the Llŷn Peninsula
in the Welsh
county of Gwynedd
. It lies 14.8 miles (23.8 km) west of Pwllheli
and 33.5 miles (53.9 km) south west of Caernarfon
, and has a population of 1,019. It is sometimes referred to as the "Land's End of Wales" . The community includes Bardsey Island
, the coastal area around Porthor, and the villages of Anelog, Llanfaelrhys
, Penycaerau, Rhoshirwaun, Rhydlios, Uwchmynydd and Y Rhiw.
The village was the last rest stop for pilgrims heading to Bardsey Island, the legendary "island of 20,000 saints". In the 18th and 19th centuries it developed as a shipbuilding centre and port. The mining and quarrying industries became major employers, and limestone
, lead
, jasper
and manganese
were exported. After the Second World War the mining industry collapsed, and Aberdaron gradually developed into a popular holiday resort. The beach was awarded a Seaside Award in 2008.
The coastal waters are part of Pen Llŷn a'r Sarnau Special Area of Conservation , one of the largest marine designated sites in the United Kingdom. The coast itself forms part of the Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island Special Protection Area , and was designated a Heritage Coast in 1974. In 1956 the area was included in Llŷn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty . Conservation Areas have been created in Aberdaron, Bardsey Island and Y Rhiw; and the area has been designated a Landscape of Historic Interest.
hillfort
at Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum, suggests that the area around Aberdaron was colonised early, as a wave of Celtic settlers explored the Irish Sea
, probably around the 4th century BC. The construction was wholly defensive, but in later phases defence appears to have been less important, and in the last phase the fort's ramparts were deliberately flattened, suggesting there was no longer a need for defence. It appears that Aberdaron became a peaceful farming community. Ptolemy
calls the Llŷn Peninsula
"Ganganorum Promontorium" (Peninsula of the Gangani); the Gangani
were a tribe of Irish Celts, and it is thought there may have been strong ties with Leinster
.
The church at Aberdaron had the ancient privilege of sanctuary
. In 1094 Gruffydd ap Cynan
, the exiled King of Gwynedd
, sought refuge in the church while attempting to recapture his throne; he escaped in the monastic community's boat to Ireland. He regained his territories in 1101, and in 1115 Gruffydd ap Rhys
, the exiled prince of Deheubarth, took refuge at Aberdaron to escape capture by Gwynedd's ruler. Henry I of England
had invaded Gwynedd the previous year, and faced by an overwhelming force, Gruffydd ap Cynan had been forced to pay homage and a substantial fine to Henry. The King of Gwynedd, seeking to give up the exiled prince to Henry, ordered that the fugitive prince be dragged from the church by force, but his soldiers were beaten back by the local clergy; Gruffydd ap Rhys escaped under cover of night and fled south to join up with his supporters in Ystrad Tywi
.
Following the conquest of Gwynedd, in 1284, Edward I
set about touring his new territories. He visited the castles at Conwy
and Caernarfon
. Court was held at Nefyn
, at which his new subjects were expected to demonstrate their loyalty; and he visited Aberdaron on his way to Bardsey Abbey.
After the English Civil War
, when the Parliamentarians
under Oliver Cromwell
introduced a strongly Protestant regime, Catholicism
remained the dominant religion in the area. Catholics, who had largely supported the Royalist
side, were often considered to be traitors and efforts were made to eradicate the religion. The persecution even extended to Aberdaron, and in 1657, Gwen Griffiths of Y Rhiw was summoned to the Quarter Sessions
as a "papist".
Agricultural improvement
and the Industrial Revolution
came to Aberdaron in the 19th century. The Inclosure (Consolidation) Act 1801 was intended to make it easier for landlords to enclose and improve common land, introduce increased efficiency, bring more land under the plough, and reduce the high prices of agricultural production. Rhoshirwaun Common, following strong opposition, was enclosed in 1814; while the process was not completed in Aberdaron, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw until 1861. On the industrial front, mining developed as a major source of employment, especially at Y Rhiw, where manganese
was discovered in 1827.
During the Second World War, Y Rhiw played a vital role in preparations for the Normandy Landings. A team of electronic engineers set up an experimental ultra high frequency
radio station, from where they were able to make a direct link to stations in Fishguard
and Llandudno
. The system employed a frequency that the German forces were unable to either monitor or jam, and was used in the 1944 landings.
Aberdaron, Bardsey Island, Bodferin
, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw were civil parishes in Cwmwd Cymydmaen
within Cantref Llŷn
, in Caernarfonshire
. Following the Poor Law Amendment Act 1834
, parishes were grouped into "unions": Pwllheli Poor Law Union was created in 1837. Under the Public Health Act 1848 the area of the poor law union became Pwllheli Rural Sanitary District, which from 1889 formed a second tier of local government under Caernarfonshire County Council. Y Rhiw was absorbed into the smaller Llanfaelrhys in 1886; and under the Local Government Act 1894
the four remaining parishes became part of Llŷn Rural District . Bodferin, Llanfaelrhys, and parts of Bryncroes
and Llangwnnadl
, were amalgamated into Aberdaron in 1934. Llŷn Rural District was abolished in 1974, and Bardsey Island was absorbed into Aberdaron to form a community
within Dwyfor District
in the new county
of Gwynedd
; Dwyfor was abolished when Gwynedd became a unitary authority
in 1996.
The community now forms an electoral division
of Cyngor Gwynedd
(Gwynedd Council), electing one councillor; William Gareth Roberts of Plaid Cymru
was re-elected in 2008. Aberdaron Community Council has 12 elected members, who represent three wards: Aberdaron De (Aberdaron South), Aberdaron Dwyrain (Aberdaron East) and Aberdaron Gogledd (Aberdaron North). Ten Independent
councillors and one from Plaid Cymru were elected unopposed in the 2008 election.
From 1950, Aberdaron was part of Caernarfon
parliamentary constituency. In 2010, the community was transferred to Dwyfor Meirionnydd
constituency, represented by Elfyn Llwyd
of Plaid Cymru. In the National Assembly for Wales
it has, since 2007, formed part of Dwyfor Meirionnydd
assembly constituency, represented by Dafydd Elis-Thomas
, also of Plaid Cymru, who until 2011 was the Presiding Officer
of the assembly. The constituency forms part of the electoral region of Mid and West Wales.
Aberdaron stands on the shore of Bae Aberdaron (Aberdaron Bay) in a small valley at the confluence of the Afon Daron and Afon Cyll-y-Felin, between the headlands of Uwchmynydd to the west, and Trwyn y Penrhyn to the east. At the mouth of the bay stand two islands, Ynys Gwylan-Fawr and Ynys Gwylan-Fach, which together are known as Ynysoedd Gwylanod (Seagull Islands). The Llŷn Peninsula
is a marine eroded platform, an extension of the Snowdonia
massif, with a complex geology including Precambrian
rocks. The coastline is rocky, with crags, scree
s and low cliffs; heather covered hills are separated by valleys occupied by pastures.
To the east, Mynydd Rhiw, Mynydd y Graig and Mynydd Penarfynydd form a 3 miles (4.8 km) long series of hog-back ridges of igneous rock that reaches the sea at Trwyn Talfarach. Above 800 feet (243.8 m) the ridges are topped by hard gabbro
. At its northern end Mynydd Rhiw rises to 1000 feet (304.8 m), the outcrop of Clip y Gylfinhir (Curlew's Crag) looming above the village of Y Rhiw. Mynydd Penarfynydd is one of the best exposures of intrusive, layered, igneous rock in the British Isles.
East of Y Rhiw is an extensive low-lying plateau between 65 feet (19.8 m) and 100 feet (30.5 m) above sea level. The coastal rock is softer here, and the sea has been free to erode the rock and boulder clay
to form sand, resulting in the spacious beach of Porth Neigwl (Hell's Mouth).
West of Aberdaron, four peaks rise above the rocky shoreline at Uwchmynydd. Mynydd Anelog stands 620 feet (189 m) high, Mynydd Mawr at 490 feet (149.4 m), Mynydd y Gwyddel rises to 295 feet (89.9 m) and Mynydd Bychestyn is 330 feet (100.6 m) above sea level.
Bardsey Island
lies 1.9 miles (3 km) off Pen y Cil. The island is 0.6 mile (0.965604 km) wide and 1 miles (1.6 km) long. The north east rises steeply from the sea to a height of 548 feet (167 m). The western plain, in contrast, comprises low, and relatively flat, cultivated farmland; in the south the island narrows to an isthmus
, connecting to a peninsula.
The coast around Aberdaron has been the scene of many shipwrecks. In 1822, the Bardsey Island lighthouse tender was wrecked, with the loss of six lives; and in 1752, the schooner John the Baptist, carrying a cargo of oats from Wexford
to Liverpool
, was wrecked on the beach at Aberdaron. The sailing ship Newry, with 400 passengers bound from Warrenpoint
to Québec
, was wrecked at Porth Orion in 1880. The crew abandoned the passengers, leaving just the captain, ship's mate and one sailor, assisted by three local men, to lead 375 men, women and children to safety. A great storm swept the country on 26 October 1859 and many ships were lost: nine were wrecked at Porthor, seven of them with complete loss of life. On the south coast, vessels were often driven ashore at Porth Neigwl by a combination of south westerly gales and treacherous offshore currents. The Transit was lost in 1839, the Arfestone the following year, and the Henry Catherine in 1866. The bay earned its English title, "Hell's Mouth", from its reputation for wrecks during the days of the sailing ship.
Aberdaron is noted for low levels of air pollution. The Gwynedd State of the Environment Report in 2004 found levels of sulfur dioxide
, nitrogen dioxide
and carbon monoxide
very low, and particulates
to be low. It is one of the few sites in the United Kingdom for golden hair lichen
, a striking bright orange lichen that is very sensitive to air pollution. The climate is relatively mild and, because of the Gulf Stream
, frosts are rare in winter.
for over a thousand years, and Aberdaron has exported wool for many years. The main product locally was felt
, produced by soaking the cloth in water and beating it with large wooden paddles until the wool formed a thick mat which could be flattened, dried and cut into lengths. There were two fulling mills
on the Afon Daron, in addition to three corn mills
, and lichen
was gathered around Y Rhiw, from which a grey dye was extracted. Arable crops consisted mainly of wheat
, barley
, oats
and potatoes. The field boundaries date back several centuries and are marked by walls, cloddiau and hedgerows; important habitats for a variety of wildlife.
Wrecking and smuggling supplemented local incomes. In 1743 John Roberts and Huw Bedward from Y Rhiw were found guilty of the murder of two shipwrecked sailors on the beach at Porth Neigwl on 6 January 1742, and hanged; Jonathan Morgan had been killed by a knife thrust into the nape of his neck, and Edward Halesham, described as a boy, had been choked to death. A ship claimed to be from France
unloaded illicit tea and brandy at Aberdaron in 1767, and attempted to sell its cargo to the locals; a Revenue cutter discovered salt being smuggled at Porth Cadlan in 1809; and a schooner on route from Guernsey
to Scotland
was reported to have offloaded lace, tea, brandy and gin at Y Rhiw in 1824.
During the 19th century good quality limestone
and a small amount of lead
ore were quarried in the village. Jasper
was mined at Carreg; granite was quarried at Porth y Pistyll; and there was a brickworks at Porth Neigwl. The main source of income, however, was herring fishing
. A regular shipping service was operated to Liverpool
, exporting pigs, poultry and eggs; the vessels returned laden with coal for the neighbourhood. Limestone was also imported and offloaded into the water at high tide, then collected from the beach when the tide went out. Lime was needed to reduce the acidity of the local soil, and lime kilns were built on the beaches at Porthor, Porth Orion, Porth Meudwy, Aberdaron and Y Rhiw to convert the limestone to quicklime. There was shipbuilding at Porth Neigwl, where the last ship, a sloop
named the Ebenezer, was built in 1841; and at Porthor, which came to an end with the building of a schooner
, the Sarah, in 1842. Aberdaron's last ship, the sloop Victory, had been built in 1792, and the last ship to come out of Porth Ysgo had been another sloop, the Grace, in 1778.
The outbreak of the First World War resulted in a great demand for manganese
as a strengthening agent for steel. Ore had been discovered at Y Rhiw in 1827, and the industry became a substantial employer in the village; over 113000 long tons (114,813.7 t) of ore were extracted between 1840 and 1945, and in 1906 the industry employed 200 people.
Tourism began to develop after 1918. The first tourist guide to the village was published in 1910 and extolled the virtues of "the salubrious sea and mountain breezes"; in addition to the two hotels in the village, local farmhouses took in visitors, which provided an extra source of income.
At the 2001 census, 59.4 per cent of the population were in employment, and 23.5 per cent were self employed; the unemployment rate was 2.3 per cent; and 16.0 per cent were retired. Of those employed, 17.7 per cent worked in agriculture; 15.8 per cent in the wholesale and retail trades; 10.7 per cent in construction; and 10.5 per cent in education. Those working from home amounted to 32.3 per cent; 15.2 per cent travelled less than 6.2 miles (10 km) to their place of work; and 23.6 per cent travelled more than 25 miles (40 km). The community is included in Pwllheli and Llŷn Regeneration Area and was identified in the Welsh Index of Multiple Deprivation 2005 as the electoral division in Gwynedd
with least access to services; and was ranked 13th in Wales. An agricultural census in 2000 recorded 33,562 sheep, 4,380 calves, 881 beef cattle, 607 dairy cattle, and 18 pigs; there were 310 acres (125.5 ha) of growing crops.
Two stone bridges, Pont Fawr (Large Bridge) and Pont Fach (Small Bridge), built in 1823, cross the Afon Daron and Afon Cyll y Felin in the centre of Aberdaron. Beyond the bridges the road opens up to create a small market square. The Old Post Office was designed by Portmerion architect, Clough Williams-Ellis
.
Y Gegin Fawr (The Big Kitchen) was built in the 13th century as a communal kitchen where pilgrims could claim a meal on their way to Bardsey Island
. Aberdaron was the last place on the route for rest and refreshment and pilgrims often had to wait weeks in the village for a chance to cross the treacherous waters of Bardsey Sound .
Next to the car park is a field, Cae y Grogbren (Gallows Field), near which is a large red rock. In the Middle Ages, the abbot from the monastery on Bardsey Island visited the rock to dispense justice to local criminals; if they were found guilty, the wrongdoer would be hanged and thrown into Pwll Ddiwaelod (The Bottomless Pool). The pool is a kettle lake, formed at the end of the Ice Age
, when blocks of ice were trapped underground and melted to form round, deep pools.
Above the village, on the Afon Daron, stands Bodwrdda, an early 16th-century stone-built house, which had a fulling
mill adjacent; two large brick-built wings were added later, giving an imposing three-storey facade containing with 17th century windows. To the south, Penrhyn Mawr is a substantial late 18th century gable-fronted farmhouse.
, 1.9 miles (3.1 km) off the mainland, was inhabited in Neolithic
times, and traces of hut circles remain. During the 5th century the island became a refuge for persecuted Christians, and a small Celtic
monastery existed. Saint Cadfan
arrived from Brittany
in 516 and, under his guidance St Mary's Abbey was built. For centuries the island was important as "the holy place of burial for all the bravest and best in the land". Bards called it "the land of indulgences, absolution and pardon, the road to Heaven, and the gate to Paradise"; and in medieval times three pilgrimages to Bardsey Island were considered to be of equivalent benefit to the soul as one to Rome. In 1188 the abbey was still a Celtic institution, but by 1212 it belonged to the Augustinians. Many people still walk to Aberdaron and Uwchmynydd each year in the footsteps of the saints, although today only ruins of the old abbey's 13th-century bell tower remain. A Celtic cross
amidst the ruins commemorates the 20,000 saints reputed to be buried on the island.
The island was declared a National Nature Reserve
in 1986, and is part of Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island Special Protection Area . It is now a favourite bird-watching location, on the migration routes of thousands of birds. Bardsey Bird and Field Observatory , founded in 1953, nets and rings 8,000 birds each year to understand their migration patterns.
Bardsey Island Trust bought the island in 1979, after an appeal supported by the Church in Wales
and many Welsh academics and public figures. The trust is financed through membership subscriptions, grants and donations, and is dedicated to protecting the wildlife, buildings and archaeological sites of the island; promoting its artistic and cultural life; and encouraging people to visit as a place of natural beauty and pilgrimage. When, in 2000, the trust advertised for a tenant for the 440 acres (178.1 ha) sheep farm on the island, they had 1,100 applications. The tenancy is now held by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds
; and the land is managed to maintain the natural habitat. Oats
, turnips and swedes
are grown; goats, ducks, geese and chickens kept; and there is a mixed flock of sheep
and Welsh black cattle
.
, is reached by a steep slope from Llanfaelrhys
, 3.3 miles (5.3 km) east of Aberdaron, past a disused manganese mine in Nant y Gadwen; the mine closed in 1927, and produced 45644 long tons (46,376.6 t) in its lifetime. Where the path from Ysgo reaches the beach, a waterfall, Pistyll y Gaseg, tumbles over the cliff. At the eastern end of the bay is Porth Alwm, where the stream from Nant y Gadwen flows into the sea. The south-facing beach is composed of fine, firm sand.
To the west, King Arthur
's last battle against his arch enemy, Mordred
, was supposedly fought in the fields around Porth Cadlan. Offshore lies a rock, Maen Gwenonwy, named after Arthur's sister.
Lladron Maelrhys are two large stones on the border between Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw. It is claimed that, years ago, thieves broke into St Maelrhys Church, intent on stealing money. Caught in the act, they fled for their lives but were caught as they approached Y Rhiw, and killed on the spot; the stones mark their burial place. Another version claims that as they crossed the parish boundary they were turned to stone for their sacrilege.
Porthor (Whistling Sands) is a cove
3.2 miles (5.1 km) north of Aberdaron that has smooth white sand; when dry, the sand whistles, or squeaks, underfoot. The crescent-shaped beach is backed by steep cliffs of relatively hard rock, from which the cove has been sculpted by the rough seas. The bay is the centre of a National Trust
estate which consists of 420 acres (170 ha) of shoreline, headland and farmland, and includes Mynydd Carreg and Mynydd Anelog.
On the hill summits that dot the headlands are heather
and gorse, shaped by the prevailing wind; thrift
and wild thyme thrive on the acidic soil. The cliffs are a stronghold of the chough
, and a nesting place for razorbills and guillemots
. On the lower rocks, in reach of the waves, are plentiful lichens, seaweeds, sponges, limpets and barnacles.
To the south are Dinas Bach and Dinas Mawr, twin peninsulas formed from weathered pillow lavas 600 million years old, thought to have been early fortified sites from the Iron Age
. Kittiwakes
, cormorants
and shags can be seen on the cliffs, while farm birds such as the yellowhammer
frequent the gorse. On Mynydd Anelog, experimental plots have been marked out to monitor different methods of managing heather to discover the best way the habitat can be conserved for the future.
North of Porthor is Porth Iago, a south-facing narrow inlet and rocky cove, which has a small beach and steep cliffs.
y area. It provided fuel from peat cuttings, pasture for animals and accommodated squatters, mainly fishermen, who had encroached on the common with the tacit acceptance of the community. An inclosure act was drawn up in 1802, designed to remove all squatters who had been there less than 20 years. Resistance to the evictions was fierce and was only suppressed by a contingent of dragoons. The act was finally applied in 1814; new roads were built across the moor; boundaries were established; allotments allocated; and wetland reclaimed.
Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum, is one of Europe's earliest Iron Age Settlements, standing 480 feet (146.3 m) above sea level. The hillfort
, 165 feet (50.3 m) in diameter, has visible traces of eight circular huts; pottery found on the site dates from 425 BC. Legend has it that a giant, Odo Gawr, is buried under a cairn of stones on the summit; nearby is a huge rock known as Carreg Samson, supposedly thrown from Uwchmynydd by Samson
. The holes in the rock are said to be the imprint of his fingers; a pot of gold reputedly lies underneath.
To the east of the village, Felin Uchaf is an educational centre exploring ways of living and working in partnership with the environment. Developed on a redundant farm, it provides residential courses in rural skills and sustainable agriculture. A traditional Iron Age
roundhouse has been built on the site.
flints have been found in the area, and a Neolithic stone axe was discovered on Mynydd Mawr. Hut circles are visible on the summits, and part of a Roman
anchor was recovered off Trwyn Bychestyn.
At Mynydd Mawr the picnic site
has views which, on a fine day, take in Cardigan Bay
, Bardsey Island
and the Wicklow Mountains
; at night, South Stack Lighthouse
is visible in the distance. A road to the summit, owned by the National Trust
, was built during the Second World War to provide access to the heights, where men were posted to give early warning to Liverpool
of Luftwaffe air raids. The former Coastguard
lookout point, manned for almost 80 years before becoming redundant in 1990, provides views over Bardsey Sound to the island. The hut contains an exhibition to the natural history of the area, and a mural created by local children.
The headland at Braich y Pwll is the only known location on the British mainland of the spotted rock rose
, which produces bright yellow petals that last only one day. The coast here has open grass heath land and mountain, giving way to rugged sea cliffs and coves. There is a profusion of wildlife, and it is an ideal vantage point to watch the spring and autumn bird migrations. Chough
s, peregrine falcon
s, kestrels
, puffins
, stonechats
, guillemots
and Manx shearwater
s can be seen, and dolphins, porpoises and seals can be spotted in the water.
Above the sea cliffs are the remains of Capel Mair (St Mary's Chapel), where it was customary for pilgrims to invoke the protection of the Virgin Mary before making the dangerous crossing to Bardsey Island. At the foot of Mynydd Mawr is Ffynnon Fair (St Mary's Well), the last stop for pilgrims crossing to the island; the well is a freshwater spring which is covered twice daily by the sea, emerging from the ebbing tide with crystal clear water.
Cwrt (Court), now a large farm, was the administrative centre of Bardsey Abbey's mainland estates, and was known as the "Court of Bardsey". The steepest cliffs in the Llŷn Peninsula
are at Y Parwyd, the scene of a local ghost story. In 1794 a newly married couple moved into a cottage nearby. Within a few years they were disturbed by a phantom, but when they read a verse from the Bible, the phantom would retreat towards Y Parwyd and hover over the cliff edge before disappearing; the couple finally moved to Bodferin
. In 1801 a ship pilot was put ashore on the rocks below the cliffs. Although very drunk, he managed to climb the cliff face and, reaching the top, fell asleep in a sheep pen. In the early morning, he awoke and, still drunk, headed for home; he walked in the wrong direction, however, and disappeared over the cliff edge into the sea.
The traditional embarkation point for pilgrims crossing to Bardsey Island was at Porth Meudwy (Hermit's Cove), now a lobster fishing
cove. Further south is Porth y Pistyll, which has good views of Ynysoedd Gwylanod, home to puffin and guillemot colonies; and Pen y Cil, where the Precambrian
pillow lavas are exposed, revealing how they have been contorted over time.
The mountain-top hamlet of Y Rhiw is 3.9 miles (6.3 km) to the east. There are fine views of Llŷn
towards Snowdonia
. On the slopes of Mynydd Rhiw is a late Stone Age
burial chamber, and Neolithic quarries. Nearby on Mynydd y Graig are three hillforts
, several hut circles and terraced fields that are thought to date from the late Iron Age
; in 1955 a Bronze Age
cinerary urn was uncovered in the village.
Plas yn Rhiw, owned by the National Trust
, is an early 17th-century house that was restored by the Keating sisters in 1939, with advice from Clough Williams-Ellis
. It is believed that the house is on or near the site of an earlier defended house, built by Meirion Goch in the 10th century to prevent incursions by Vikings into Porth Neigwl.
. The road runs east to Llanbedrog
, where it connects with the A499 Pwllheli
to Abersoch
road.
Buses are provided by two companies. Service 17 is operated by Nefyn Coaches, with six Monday to Saturday return journeys on the Pwllheli–Llanbedrog–Mynytho
–Nanhoron–Botwnnog
–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Penygroeslon–Rhoshirwaun–Aberdaron route. Two of the Aberdaron bound journeys divert through Bryn-croes. Arriva Buses Wales
provide a late night return journey on Saturdays. Service 17 is supplemented by Nefyn Coaches service 17b, running return journeys twice a day, Monday to Saturday, largely over the same route, but with diversions to serve Penllech
and Llangwnnad towards Aberdaron, or Penycaerau and Y Rhiw heading back to Pwllheli.
The irregular Nefyn Coaches service 8b has an early morning weekday Nefyn
–Tudweiliog
–Llangwnnadl
–Penygroeslon–Rhydlios bus, which operates only during school holidays. On Wednesdays throughout the year, a return journey runs the Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd–Aberdaron–Penycaerau–Y Rhiw–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedrog–Pwllheli route. On other weekdays a Nefyn–Tudweiliog–Llangwnnadl–Penygroeslon–Aberdaron–Uwchmynydd bus runs. On Wednesdays during school terms, an afternoon journey runs on the Y Rhiw–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedgrog–Pwllheli route. At weekends, a Saturday morning bus operates Nefyn–Dinas–Rhos-ddu–Brynmawr–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Pant–Uwchmynydd. This then makes a journey through the heart of Llŷn on the Uwchmynydd–Porth Or–Rhydlios–Pant–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Brynmawr–Rhos-ddu–Dinas–Llaniestyn–Garnfadryn–Rhyd-y-clafdy–Efailnewydd
–Pwllheli route, returning in the afternoon. It completes the day retracing its steps over the Uwchmynydd–Pant–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Brynmawr–Rhos-ddu–Dinas–Nefyn route.
On weekdays other than Wednesdays, Nefyn Coaches service 334 runs a morning Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd–Aberdaron–Penygroeslon–Llangwnnadl–Tudweiliog–Nefyn route. A second journey at midday operates from Uwchmynydd over the same route to Nefyn, and on to Pwllheli. Each weekday, an early evening bus runs the Penygroeslon–Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd route, while on Wednesdays during school holidays an afternoon Rhydlios–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedrog–Pwllheli bus runs.
Bardsey Boat Trips operates passenger ferries between Porth Meudwy and Bardsey Island
. These are supplemented by Enlli Charters, who sail between Pwllheli and the island.
The nearest railway station is at Pwllheli, 14.8 miles (23.8 km) to the east, on the Cambrian Coast Line to Machynlleth
. Services are provided by Arriva Trains Wales
, with some trains continuing to Shrewsbury
and Birmingham
.
(Welsh Water), owned by Glas Cymru, a company limited by guarantee
. The electricity distribution company
is Scottish Power
, a subsidiary of the Basque
utility Iberdrola
.
Welsh Ambulance Services
provide ambulance and paramedic services; and North West Wales NHS Trust is responsible for hospital services. The nearest community hospital is Ysbyty Bryn Beryl at Pwllheli
; for 24-hour accident and emergency services the nearest provision is at Ysbyty Gwynedd in Bangor
. The general provision of health services is the responsibility of Gwynedd Local Health Board .
Law enforcement is the responsibility of North Wales Police
, formed in 1967 as Gwynedd Constabulary. North Wales Fire and Rescue Service
was created in 1996 by the merger of the Gwynedd
and Clwyd
fire brigades; it provides public protection services, operating out of the fire station at Abersoch
.
, Bryncroes
and Y Rhiw. The Elementary Education Act 1870
provided for local school boards, but was opposed by the established church. The process of establishing boards was lengthy, and the government had to enforce the regulations in Aberdaron, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw; the national school
opened at Y Rhiw in 1877 and had 74 pupils on its register; it closed in 1965.
Primary education
is now provided by Ysgol Crud y Werin in Aberdaron, which has 54 pupils, and by Ysgol Llidiardau in Rhoshirwaun, established in 1880, which has 21 pupils. At the last inspection of Ysgol Crud y Werin, by Estyn
in 2008, there were no pupils entitled to free school meals, and 84 per cent came from homes where Welsh was the main spoken language; Welsh is the main medium of teaching. Ysgol Llidiardau was last inspected in 2009; 18 per cent of pupils were entitled to free school meals and 36 per cent came from homes where Welsh was the predominant language. Secondary school pupils mainly attend Ysgol Botwnnog.
, serves the area; the local English newspapers are the Caernarfon and Denbigh Herald, published in Caernarfon
; and the Cambrian News
, published in Aberystwyth
. Summer harp recitals and concerts are held in St Hywyn's Church; Gŵyl Pen Draw'r Byd (The Land's End Festival) is a yearly event which includes beach side concerts and competitions on the shore, with an evening concert at Morfa Mawr Farm; Gŵyl Pentre Coll (The Lost Village Festival), a festival of contemporary acoustic music, has been held since 2008 at Felin Uchaf in Rhoshirwaun; and a local eisteddfod, Eisteddfod Flynyddol Uwchmynydd, is held at Ysgol Crud y Werin.
The poet Ronald Stuart Thomas
was vicar of St Hywyn's Church from 1967 to 1978; when he retired he lived for some years in Y Rhiw. An ardent Welsh nationalist who learnt to speak Welsh, his poetry was based on his religious faith. In 1995 he was nominated for the Nobel Prize in Literature
, and he was widely regarded as the best religious poet of his time. The subject of one of Thomas's poems, Richard Robert Jones, better known as "Dic Aberdaron
", was born in the village in 1780. Despite very little formal education, he is said to have been fluent in 14 languages, and spent years travelling the country accompanied by his books and his cat.
William Rowlands won a prize at the National Eisteddfod in 1922, for an adventure story written for boys. The book, Y Llong Lo (The Coal Ship) was published in 1924, and told the story of two boys who stow away on one of the ships that brought coal to Porth Neigwl. The South African poet Roy Campbell
published The Flaming Terrapin, written in a "croglofft cottage" above Porth Ysgo, in 1922; he was considered to be one of the best poets of the period between the two world wars. Considered one of the most significant Welsh poets of the 15th century, Dafydd Nanmor
, in Gwallt Llio, compared the striking yellow colour of the rocks at Uwchmynydd, covered by golden hair lichen
, to the colour of his loved one's hair. Lewys Daron
, a 16th-century poet best known for his elegy to friend and fellow poet Tudur Aled
, is thought to have been born in Aberdaron.
Yorkshire-born poet Christine Evans
lives half the year on Bardsey Island
and spends the winters at Uwchmynydd. She moved to Pwllheli
as a teacher and married into a Bardsey Island farming family. On maternity leave in 1976, she started writing poems; her first book was published seven years later. Cometary Phrases was Welsh Book of the Year 1989 and she was the winner of the inaugural Roland Mathias Prize in 2005.
Edgar Ewart Pritchard, an amateur film-maker from Brownhills
, produced "The Island in the Current", a colour movie of life on Bardsey Island, in 1953; a copy of the film is held by the National Screen and Sound Archive of Wales. A candle lantern, discovered in 1946 in a cowshed at Y Rhiw, is now displayed in St Fagans National History Museum
; and Iron Age
pottery found at Castell Odo is on display at Gwynedd Museum and Art Gallery in Bangor
.
Dilys Cadwaladr
, the former school teacher on Bardsey Island, in 1953 became the first woman to win the Crown at the National Eisteddfod for her long poem Y Llen; and artist Brenda Chamberlain
twice won the Gold Medal for Art at the Eisteddfod; some of the murals she painted can still be seen on the walls of Carreg, her island home from 1947 to 1962. Wildlife artist Kim Atkinson, whose work has been widely exhibited in Wales and England, spent her childhood on the island and returned to live there in the 1980s.
Since 1999, Bardsey Island Trust has appointed an Artist in Residence to spend several weeks on the island producing work which is later exhibited on the mainland. A Welsh literary residence was created in 2002; singer-songwriter Fflur Dafydd
spent six weeks working on a collection of poetry and prose. Her play Hugo was inspired by her stay, and she has produced two novels, Atyniad (Attraction), which won the prose medal at the 2006 Eisteddfod; and Twenty Thousand Saints, winner of the Oxfam Hay Prize, which tells how the women of the island, starved of men, turn to each other.
It was tradition for Bardsey Island to elect the "King of Bardsey" , and from 1820 onwards he would be crowned by Baron Newborough or his representative; the crown is now kept at Merseyside Maritime Museum
in Liverpool
, although calls have been made for it to return to Gwynedd. At the outbreak of the First World War, the last king, Love Pritchard, offered himself and the men of the island for military service, but he was refused as he was considered too old at the age of 71; Pritchard took umbrage, and declared the island to be a neutral power. In 1925 Pritchard left the island for the mainland, to seek a less laborious way of life, but died the following year.
Owen Griffith, a qualified pharmacist from Penycaerau, who was known as the "Doctor of the Wild Wart", used a traditional herbalist remedy to cure basal cell carcinoma
, also known as rodent ulcer; the remedy had supposedly been passed on to the family 300 years earlier by an Irish tinker
. In 1932 a woman died while receiving treatment and, even though the inquest
into her death found that no blame was apportioned to the treatment, the Chief Medical Officer for Caernarfonshire
vociferously condemned the treatment in the press. Former patients came out in support of the pharmacist, and petitions were sent to the Department of Health demanding that a medical licence be granted to Griffith and his cousin.
There are several folk tales of the Tylwyth Teg
, the fairy
people who inhabited the area and an invisible land in Cardigan Bay
. One tells of a farmer from Aberdaron who was in the habit of stepping outside his house before retiring to bed. One night he was spoken to by a stranger, who asked why the farmer was annoyed by him. The farmer, confused, asked what the stranger meant and was told to stand with one foot on the stranger's. This he did, and could see another house, just below his own, and that all the farm's slops went down the chimney of the invisible house. The stranger asked if the farmer would move his door to the other side of the house, which the farmer subsequently did, walling up the original door; from that day, the farmer's livestock flourished, and he became one of the most prosperous men in the area.
; it was a significant institution, a monastery and centre of religious learning, rather than simply a place of worship for the locals. The present double-naved St Hywyn's Church , built in 1137 and known as "The Cathedral of Llŷn", stands above the shore and was on the pilgrim route to Bardsey Island
. It contains a 12th-century Romanesque
arched door, and a square bell turret. The church was extended in 1417 and abandoned in 1841, when the locals decided to build a new church, Eglwys Newydd, in the village; the new building, however, proved unpopular and the congregation returned in 1906. Inside is a display about the life and works of the poet, Ronald Stuart Thomas
; and in the churchyard stand Y Meini Feracius a Senagus (The Veracius and Senacus Stones), the tombstones of two 5th-century Christian priests, found in the 18th century on farmland near Mynydd Anelog. In 2008 the church became the centre of controversy when the local vicar blessed a gay civil partnership, after approval by the local church council; the vicar was reprimanded by Barry Morgan
, the Archbishop of Wales
Aberdaron is a community
and former fishing village at the western tip of the Llŷn Peninsula
in the Welsh
county of Gwynedd
. It lies 14.8 miles (23.8 km) west of Pwllheli
and 33.5 miles (53.9 km) south west of Caernarfon
, and has a population of 1,019. It is sometimes referred to as the "Land's End of Wales" . The community includes Bardsey Island
, the coastal area around Porthor, and the villages of Anelog, Llanfaelrhys
, Penycaerau, Rhoshirwaun, Rhydlios, Uwchmynydd and Y Rhiw.
The village was the last rest stop for pilgrims heading to Bardsey Island, the legendary "island of 20,000 saints". In the 18th and 19th centuries it developed as a shipbuilding centre and port. The mining and quarrying industries became major employers, and limestone
, lead
, jasper
and manganese
were exported. After the Second World War the mining industry collapsed, and Aberdaron gradually developed into a popular holiday resort. The beach was awarded a Seaside Award in 2008.
The coastal waters are part of Pen Llŷn a'r Sarnau Special Area of Conservation , one of the largest marine designated sites in the United Kingdom. The coast itself forms part of the Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island Special Protection Area , and was designated a Heritage Coast in 1974. In 1956 the area was included in Llŷn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty . Conservation Areas have been created in Aberdaron, Bardsey Island and Y Rhiw; and the area has been designated a Landscape of Historic Interest.
hillfort
at Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum, suggests that the area around Aberdaron was colonised early, as a wave of Celtic settlers explored the Irish Sea
, probably around the 4th century BC. The construction was wholly defensive, but in later phases defence appears to have been less important, and in the last phase the fort's ramparts were deliberately flattened, suggesting there was no longer a need for defence. It appears that Aberdaron became a peaceful farming community. Ptolemy
calls the Llŷn Peninsula
"Ganganorum Promontorium" (Peninsula of the Gangani); the Gangani
were a tribe of Irish Celts, and it is thought there may have been strong ties with Leinster
.
The church at Aberdaron had the ancient privilege of sanctuary
. In 1094 Gruffydd ap Cynan
, the exiled King of Gwynedd
, sought refuge in the church while attempting to recapture his throne; he escaped in the monastic community's boat to Ireland. He regained his territories in 1101, and in 1115 Gruffydd ap Rhys
, the exiled prince of Deheubarth, took refuge at Aberdaron to escape capture by Gwynedd's ruler. Henry I of England
had invaded Gwynedd the previous year, and faced by an overwhelming force, Gruffydd ap Cynan had been forced to pay homage and a substantial fine to Henry. The King of Gwynedd, seeking to give up the exiled prince to Henry, ordered that the fugitive prince be dragged from the church by force, but his soldiers were beaten back by the local clergy; Gruffydd ap Rhys escaped under cover of night and fled south to join up with his supporters in Ystrad Tywi
.
Following the conquest of Gwynedd, in 1284, Edward I
set about touring his new territories. He visited the castles at Conwy
and Caernarfon
. Court was held at Nefyn
, at which his new subjects were expected to demonstrate their loyalty; and he visited Aberdaron on his way to Bardsey Abbey.
After the English Civil War
, when the Parliamentarians
under Oliver Cromwell
introduced a strongly Protestant regime, Catholicism
remained the dominant religion in the area. Catholics, who had largely supported the Royalist
side, were often considered to be traitors and efforts were made to eradicate the religion. The persecution even extended to Aberdaron, and in 1657, Gwen Griffiths of Y Rhiw was summoned to the Quarter Sessions
as a "papist".
Agricultural improvement
and the Industrial Revolution
came to Aberdaron in the 19th century. The Inclosure (Consolidation) Act 1801 was intended to make it easier for landlords to enclose and improve common land, introduce increased efficiency, bring more land under the plough, and reduce the high prices of agricultural production. Rhoshirwaun Common, following strong opposition, was enclosed in 1814; while the process was not completed in Aberdaron, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw until 1861. On the industrial front, mining developed as a major source of employment, especially at Y Rhiw, where manganese
was discovered in 1827.
During the Second World War, Y Rhiw played a vital role in preparations for the Normandy Landings. A team of electronic engineers set up an experimental ultra high frequency
radio station, from where they were able to make a direct link to stations in Fishguard
and Llandudno
. The system employed a frequency that the German forces were unable to either monitor or jam, and was used in the 1944 landings.
Aberdaron, Bardsey Island, Bodferin
, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw were civil parishes in Cwmwd Cymydmaen
within Cantref Llŷn
, in Caernarfonshire
. Following the Poor Law Amendment Act 1834
, parishes were grouped into "unions": Pwllheli Poor Law Union was created in 1837. Under the Public Health Act 1848 the area of the poor law union became Pwllheli Rural Sanitary District, which from 1889 formed a second tier of local government under Caernarfonshire County Council. Y Rhiw was absorbed into the smaller Llanfaelrhys in 1886; and under the Local Government Act 1894
the four remaining parishes became part of Llŷn Rural District . Bodferin, Llanfaelrhys, and parts of Bryncroes
and Llangwnnadl
, were amalgamated into Aberdaron in 1934. Llŷn Rural District was abolished in 1974, and Bardsey Island was absorbed into Aberdaron to form a community
within Dwyfor District
in the new county
of Gwynedd
; Dwyfor was abolished when Gwynedd became a unitary authority
in 1996.
The community now forms an electoral division
of Cyngor Gwynedd
(Gwynedd Council), electing one councillor; William Gareth Roberts of Plaid Cymru
was re-elected in 2008. Aberdaron Community Council has 12 elected members, who represent three wards: Aberdaron De (Aberdaron South), Aberdaron Dwyrain (Aberdaron East) and Aberdaron Gogledd (Aberdaron North). Ten Independent
councillors and one from Plaid Cymru were elected unopposed in the 2008 election.
From 1950, Aberdaron was part of Caernarfon
parliamentary constituency. In 2010, the community was transferred to Dwyfor Meirionnydd
constituency, represented by Elfyn Llwyd
of Plaid Cymru. In the National Assembly for Wales
it has, since 2007, formed part of Dwyfor Meirionnydd
assembly constituency, represented by Dafydd Elis-Thomas
, also of Plaid Cymru, who until 2011 was the Presiding Officer
of the assembly. The constituency forms part of the electoral region of Mid and West Wales.
Aberdaron stands on the shore of Bae Aberdaron (Aberdaron Bay) in a small valley at the confluence of the Afon Daron and Afon Cyll-y-Felin, between the headlands of Uwchmynydd to the west, and Trwyn y Penrhyn to the east. At the mouth of the bay stand two islands, Ynys Gwylan-Fawr and Ynys Gwylan-Fach, which together are known as Ynysoedd Gwylanod (Seagull Islands). The Llŷn Peninsula
is a marine eroded platform, an extension of the Snowdonia
massif, with a complex geology including Precambrian
rocks. The coastline is rocky, with crags, scree
s and low cliffs; heather covered hills are separated by valleys occupied by pastures.
To the east, Mynydd Rhiw, Mynydd y Graig and Mynydd Penarfynydd form a 3 miles (4.8 km) long series of hog-back ridges of igneous rock that reaches the sea at Trwyn Talfarach. Above 800 feet (243.8 m) the ridges are topped by hard gabbro
. At its northern end Mynydd Rhiw rises to 1000 feet (304.8 m), the outcrop of Clip y Gylfinhir (Curlew's Crag) looming above the village of Y Rhiw. Mynydd Penarfynydd is one of the best exposures of intrusive, layered, igneous rock in the British Isles.
East of Y Rhiw is an extensive low-lying plateau between 65 feet (19.8 m) and 100 feet (30.5 m) above sea level. The coastal rock is softer here, and the sea has been free to erode the rock and boulder clay
to form sand, resulting in the spacious beach of Porth Neigwl (Hell's Mouth).
West of Aberdaron, four peaks rise above the rocky shoreline at Uwchmynydd. Mynydd Anelog stands 620 feet (189 m) high, Mynydd Mawr at 490 feet (149.4 m), Mynydd y Gwyddel rises to 295 feet (89.9 m) and Mynydd Bychestyn is 330 feet (100.6 m) above sea level.
Bardsey Island
lies 1.9 miles (3 km) off Pen y Cil. The island is 0.6 mile (0.965604 km) wide and 1 miles (1.6 km) long. The north east rises steeply from the sea to a height of 548 feet (167 m). The western plain, in contrast, comprises low, and relatively flat, cultivated farmland; in the south the island narrows to an isthmus
, connecting to a peninsula.
The coast around Aberdaron has been the scene of many shipwrecks. In 1822, the Bardsey Island lighthouse tender was wrecked, with the loss of six lives; and in 1752, the schooner John the Baptist, carrying a cargo of oats from Wexford
to Liverpool
, was wrecked on the beach at Aberdaron. The sailing ship Newry, with 400 passengers bound from Warrenpoint
to Québec
, was wrecked at Porth Orion in 1880. The crew abandoned the passengers, leaving just the captain, ship's mate and one sailor, assisted by three local men, to lead 375 men, women and children to safety. A great storm swept the country on 26 October 1859 and many ships were lost: nine were wrecked at Porthor, seven of them with complete loss of life. On the south coast, vessels were often driven ashore at Porth Neigwl by a combination of south westerly gales and treacherous offshore currents. The Transit was lost in 1839, the Arfestone the following year, and the Henry Catherine in 1866. The bay earned its English title, "Hell's Mouth", from its reputation for wrecks during the days of the sailing ship.
Aberdaron is noted for low levels of air pollution. The Gwynedd State of the Environment Report in 2004 found levels of sulfur dioxide
, nitrogen dioxide
and carbon monoxide
very low, and particulates
to be low. It is one of the few sites in the United Kingdom for golden hair lichen
, a striking bright orange lichen that is very sensitive to air pollution. The climate is relatively mild and, because of the Gulf Stream
, frosts are rare in winter.
for over a thousand years, and Aberdaron has exported wool for many years. The main product locally was felt
, produced by soaking the cloth in water and beating it with large wooden paddles until the wool formed a thick mat which could be flattened, dried and cut into lengths. There were two fulling mills
on the Afon Daron, in addition to three corn mills
, and lichen
was gathered around Y Rhiw, from which a grey dye was extracted. Arable crops consisted mainly of wheat
, barley
, oats
and potatoes. The field boundaries date back several centuries and are marked by walls, cloddiau and hedgerows; important habitats for a variety of wildlife.
Wrecking and smuggling supplemented local incomes. In 1743 John Roberts and Huw Bedward from Y Rhiw were found guilty of the murder of two shipwrecked sailors on the beach at Porth Neigwl on 6 January 1742, and hanged; Jonathan Morgan had been killed by a knife thrust into the nape of his neck, and Edward Halesham, described as a boy, had been choked to death. A ship claimed to be from France
unloaded illicit tea and brandy at Aberdaron in 1767, and attempted to sell its cargo to the locals; a Revenue cutter discovered salt being smuggled at Porth Cadlan in 1809; and a schooner on route from Guernsey
to Scotland
was reported to have offloaded lace, tea, brandy and gin at Y Rhiw in 1824.
During the 19th century good quality limestone
and a small amount of lead
ore were quarried in the village. Jasper
was mined at Carreg; granite was quarried at Porth y Pistyll; and there was a brickworks at Porth Neigwl. The main source of income, however, was herring fishing
. A regular shipping service was operated to Liverpool
, exporting pigs, poultry and eggs; the vessels returned laden with coal for the neighbourhood. Limestone was also imported and offloaded into the water at high tide, then collected from the beach when the tide went out. Lime was needed to reduce the acidity of the local soil, and lime kilns were built on the beaches at Porthor, Porth Orion, Porth Meudwy, Aberdaron and Y Rhiw to convert the limestone to quicklime. There was shipbuilding at Porth Neigwl, where the last ship, a sloop
named the Ebenezer, was built in 1841; and at Porthor, which came to an end with the building of a schooner
, the Sarah, in 1842. Aberdaron's last ship, the sloop Victory, had been built in 1792, and the last ship to come out of Porth Ysgo had been another sloop, the Grace, in 1778.
The outbreak of the First World War resulted in a great demand for manganese
as a strengthening agent for steel. Ore had been discovered at Y Rhiw in 1827, and the industry became a substantial employer in the village; over 113000 long tons (114,813.7 t) of ore were extracted between 1840 and 1945, and in 1906 the industry employed 200 people.
Tourism began to develop after 1918. The first tourist guide to the village was published in 1910 and extolled the virtues of "the salubrious sea and mountain breezes"; in addition to the two hotels in the village, local farmhouses took in visitors, which provided an extra source of income.
At the 2001 census, 59.4 per cent of the population were in employment, and 23.5 per cent were self employed; the unemployment rate was 2.3 per cent; and 16.0 per cent were retired. Of those employed, 17.7 per cent worked in agriculture; 15.8 per cent in the wholesale and retail trades; 10.7 per cent in construction; and 10.5 per cent in education. Those working from home amounted to 32.3 per cent; 15.2 per cent travelled less than 6.2 miles (10 km) to their place of work; and 23.6 per cent travelled more than 25 miles (40 km). The community is included in Pwllheli and Llŷn Regeneration Area and was identified in the Welsh Index of Multiple Deprivation 2005 as the electoral division in Gwynedd
with least access to services; and was ranked 13th in Wales. An agricultural census in 2000 recorded 33,562 sheep, 4,380 calves, 881 beef cattle, 607 dairy cattle, and 18 pigs; there were 310 acres (125.5 ha) of growing crops.
Two stone bridges, Pont Fawr (Large Bridge) and Pont Fach (Small Bridge), built in 1823, cross the Afon Daron and Afon Cyll y Felin in the centre of Aberdaron. Beyond the bridges the road opens up to create a small market square. The Old Post Office was designed by Portmerion architect, Clough Williams-Ellis
.
Y Gegin Fawr (The Big Kitchen) was built in the 13th century as a communal kitchen where pilgrims could claim a meal on their way to Bardsey Island
. Aberdaron was the last place on the route for rest and refreshment and pilgrims often had to wait weeks in the village for a chance to cross the treacherous waters of Bardsey Sound .
Next to the car park is a field, Cae y Grogbren (Gallows Field), near which is a large red rock. In the Middle Ages, the abbot from the monastery on Bardsey Island visited the rock to dispense justice to local criminals; if they were found guilty, the wrongdoer would be hanged and thrown into Pwll Ddiwaelod (The Bottomless Pool). The pool is a kettle lake, formed at the end of the Ice Age
, when blocks of ice were trapped underground and melted to form round, deep pools.
Above the village, on the Afon Daron, stands Bodwrdda, an early 16th-century stone-built house, which had a fulling
mill adjacent; two large brick-built wings were added later, giving an imposing three-storey facade containing with 17th century windows. To the south, Penrhyn Mawr is a substantial late 18th century gable-fronted farmhouse.
, 1.9 miles (3.1 km) off the mainland, was inhabited in Neolithic
times, and traces of hut circles remain. During the 5th century the island became a refuge for persecuted Christians, and a small Celtic
monastery existed. Saint Cadfan
arrived from Brittany
in 516 and, under his guidance St Mary's Abbey was built. For centuries the island was important as "the holy place of burial for all the bravest and best in the land". Bards called it "the land of indulgences, absolution and pardon, the road to Heaven, and the gate to Paradise"; and in medieval times three pilgrimages to Bardsey Island were considered to be of equivalent benefit to the soul as one to Rome. In 1188 the abbey was still a Celtic institution, but by 1212 it belonged to the Augustinians. Many people still walk to Aberdaron and Uwchmynydd each year in the footsteps of the saints, although today only ruins of the old abbey's 13th-century bell tower remain. A Celtic cross
amidst the ruins commemorates the 20,000 saints reputed to be buried on the island.
The island was declared a National Nature Reserve
in 1986, and is part of Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island Special Protection Area . It is now a favourite bird-watching location, on the migration routes of thousands of birds. Bardsey Bird and Field Observatory , founded in 1953, nets and rings 8,000 birds each year to understand their migration patterns.
Bardsey Island Trust bought the island in 1979, after an appeal supported by the Church in Wales
and many Welsh academics and public figures. The trust is financed through membership subscriptions, grants and donations, and is dedicated to protecting the wildlife, buildings and archaeological sites of the island; promoting its artistic and cultural life; and encouraging people to visit as a place of natural beauty and pilgrimage. When, in 2000, the trust advertised for a tenant for the 440 acres (178.1 ha) sheep farm on the island, they had 1,100 applications. The tenancy is now held by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds
; and the land is managed to maintain the natural habitat. Oats
, turnips and swedes
are grown; goats, ducks, geese and chickens kept; and there is a mixed flock of sheep
and Welsh black cattle
.
, is reached by a steep slope from Llanfaelrhys
, 3.3 miles (5.3 km) east of Aberdaron, past a disused manganese mine in Nant y Gadwen; the mine closed in 1927, and produced 45644 long tons (46,376.6 t) in its lifetime. Where the path from Ysgo reaches the beach, a waterfall, Pistyll y Gaseg, tumbles over the cliff. At the eastern end of the bay is Porth Alwm, where the stream from Nant y Gadwen flows into the sea. The south-facing beach is composed of fine, firm sand.
To the west, King Arthur
's last battle against his arch enemy, Mordred
, was supposedly fought in the fields around Porth Cadlan. Offshore lies a rock, Maen Gwenonwy, named after Arthur's sister.
Lladron Maelrhys are two large stones on the border between Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw. It is claimed that, years ago, thieves broke into St Maelrhys Church, intent on stealing money. Caught in the act, they fled for their lives but were caught as they approached Y Rhiw, and killed on the spot; the stones mark their burial place. Another version claims that as they crossed the parish boundary they were turned to stone for their sacrilege.
Porthor (Whistling Sands) is a cove
3.2 miles (5.1 km) north of Aberdaron that has smooth white sand; when dry, the sand whistles, or squeaks, underfoot. The crescent-shaped beach is backed by steep cliffs of relatively hard rock, from which the cove has been sculpted by the rough seas. The bay is the centre of a National Trust
estate which consists of 420 acres (170 ha) of shoreline, headland and farmland, and includes Mynydd Carreg and Mynydd Anelog.
On the hill summits that dot the headlands are heather
and gorse, shaped by the prevailing wind; thrift
and wild thyme thrive on the acidic soil. The cliffs are a stronghold of the chough
, and a nesting place for razorbills and guillemots
. On the lower rocks, in reach of the waves, are plentiful lichens, seaweeds, sponges, limpets and barnacles.
To the south are Dinas Bach and Dinas Mawr, twin peninsulas formed from weathered pillow lavas 600 million years old, thought to have been early fortified sites from the Iron Age
. Kittiwakes
, cormorants
and shags can be seen on the cliffs, while farm birds such as the yellowhammer
frequent the gorse. On Mynydd Anelog, experimental plots have been marked out to monitor different methods of managing heather to discover the best way the habitat can be conserved for the future.
North of Porthor is Porth Iago, a south-facing narrow inlet and rocky cove, which has a small beach and steep cliffs.
y area. It provided fuel from peat cuttings, pasture for animals and accommodated squatters, mainly fishermen, who had encroached on the common with the tacit acceptance of the community. An inclosure act was drawn up in 1802, designed to remove all squatters who had been there less than 20 years. Resistance to the evictions was fierce and was only suppressed by a contingent of dragoons. The act was finally applied in 1814; new roads were built across the moor; boundaries were established; allotments allocated; and wetland reclaimed.
Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum, is one of Europe's earliest Iron Age Settlements, standing 480 feet (146.3 m) above sea level. The hillfort
, 165 feet (50.3 m) in diameter, has visible traces of eight circular huts; pottery found on the site dates from 425 BC. Legend has it that a giant, Odo Gawr, is buried under a cairn of stones on the summit; nearby is a huge rock known as Carreg Samson, supposedly thrown from Uwchmynydd by Samson
. The holes in the rock are said to be the imprint of his fingers; a pot of gold reputedly lies underneath.
To the east of the village, Felin Uchaf is an educational centre exploring ways of living and working in partnership with the environment. Developed on a redundant farm, it provides residential courses in rural skills and sustainable agriculture. A traditional Iron Age
roundhouse has been built on the site.
flints have been found in the area, and a Neolithic stone axe was discovered on Mynydd Mawr. Hut circles are visible on the summits, and part of a Roman
anchor was recovered off Trwyn Bychestyn.
At Mynydd Mawr the picnic site
has views which, on a fine day, take in Cardigan Bay
, Bardsey Island
and the Wicklow Mountains
; at night, South Stack Lighthouse
is visible in the distance. A road to the summit, owned by the National Trust
, was built during the Second World War to provide access to the heights, where men were posted to give early warning to Liverpool
of Luftwaffe air raids. The former Coastguard
lookout point, manned for almost 80 years before becoming redundant in 1990, provides views over Bardsey Sound to the island. The hut contains an exhibition to the natural history of the area, and a mural created by local children.
The headland at Braich y Pwll is the only known location on the British mainland of the spotted rock rose
, which produces bright yellow petals that last only one day. The coast here has open grass heath land and mountain, giving way to rugged sea cliffs and coves. There is a profusion of wildlife, and it is an ideal vantage point to watch the spring and autumn bird migrations. Chough
s, peregrine falcon
s, kestrels
, puffins
, stonechats
, guillemots
and Manx shearwater
s can be seen, and dolphins, porpoises and seals can be spotted in the water.
Above the sea cliffs are the remains of Capel Mair (St Mary's Chapel), where it was customary for pilgrims to invoke the protection of the Virgin Mary before making the dangerous crossing to Bardsey Island. At the foot of Mynydd Mawr is Ffynnon Fair (St Mary's Well), the last stop for pilgrims crossing to the island; the well is a freshwater spring which is covered twice daily by the sea, emerging from the ebbing tide with crystal clear water.
Cwrt (Court), now a large farm, was the administrative centre of Bardsey Abbey's mainland estates, and was known as the "Court of Bardsey". The steepest cliffs in the Llŷn Peninsula
are at Y Parwyd, the scene of a local ghost story. In 1794 a newly married couple moved into a cottage nearby. Within a few years they were disturbed by a phantom, but when they read a verse from the Bible, the phantom would retreat towards Y Parwyd and hover over the cliff edge before disappearing; the couple finally moved to Bodferin
. In 1801 a ship pilot was put ashore on the rocks below the cliffs. Although very drunk, he managed to climb the cliff face and, reaching the top, fell asleep in a sheep pen. In the early morning, he awoke and, still drunk, headed for home; he walked in the wrong direction, however, and disappeared over the cliff edge into the sea.
The traditional embarkation point for pilgrims crossing to Bardsey Island was at Porth Meudwy (Hermit's Cove), now a lobster fishing
cove. Further south is Porth y Pistyll, which has good views of Ynysoedd Gwylanod, home to puffin and guillemot colonies; and Pen y Cil, where the Precambrian
pillow lavas are exposed, revealing how they have been contorted over time.
The mountain-top hamlet of Y Rhiw is 3.9 miles (6.3 km) to the east. There are fine views of Llŷn
towards Snowdonia
. On the slopes of Mynydd Rhiw is a late Stone Age
burial chamber, and Neolithic quarries. Nearby on Mynydd y Graig are three hillforts
, several hut circles and terraced fields that are thought to date from the late Iron Age
; in 1955 a Bronze Age
cinerary urn was uncovered in the village.
Plas yn Rhiw, owned by the National Trust
, is an early 17th-century house that was restored by the Keating sisters in 1939, with advice from Clough Williams-Ellis
. It is believed that the house is on or near the site of an earlier defended house, built by Meirion Goch in the 10th century to prevent incursions by Vikings into Porth Neigwl.
. The road runs east to Llanbedrog
, where it connects with the A499 Pwllheli
to Abersoch
road.
Buses are provided by two companies. Service 17 is operated by Nefyn Coaches, with six Monday to Saturday return journeys on the Pwllheli–Llanbedrog–Mynytho
–Nanhoron–Botwnnog
–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Penygroeslon–Rhoshirwaun–Aberdaron route. Two of the Aberdaron bound journeys divert through Bryn-croes. Arriva Buses Wales
provide a late night return journey on Saturdays. Service 17 is supplemented by Nefyn Coaches service 17b, running return journeys twice a day, Monday to Saturday, largely over the same route, but with diversions to serve Penllech
and Llangwnnad towards Aberdaron, or Penycaerau and Y Rhiw heading back to Pwllheli.
The irregular Nefyn Coaches service 8b has an early morning weekday Nefyn
–Tudweiliog
–Llangwnnadl
–Penygroeslon–Rhydlios bus, which operates only during school holidays. On Wednesdays throughout the year, a return journey runs the Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd–Aberdaron–Penycaerau–Y Rhiw–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedrog–Pwllheli route. On other weekdays a Nefyn–Tudweiliog–Llangwnnadl–Penygroeslon–Aberdaron–Uwchmynydd bus runs. On Wednesdays during school terms, an afternoon journey runs on the Y Rhiw–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedgrog–Pwllheli route. At weekends, a Saturday morning bus operates Nefyn–Dinas–Rhos-ddu–Brynmawr–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Pant–Uwchmynydd. This then makes a journey through the heart of Llŷn on the Uwchmynydd–Porth Or–Rhydlios–Pant–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Brynmawr–Rhos-ddu–Dinas–Llaniestyn–Garnfadryn–Rhyd-y-clafdy–Efailnewydd
–Pwllheli route, returning in the afternoon. It completes the day retracing its steps over the Uwchmynydd–Pant–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Brynmawr–Rhos-ddu–Dinas–Nefyn route.
On weekdays other than Wednesdays, Nefyn Coaches service 334 runs a morning Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd–Aberdaron–Penygroeslon–Llangwnnadl–Tudweiliog–Nefyn route. A second journey at midday operates from Uwchmynydd over the same route to Nefyn, and on to Pwllheli. Each weekday, an early evening bus runs the Penygroeslon–Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd route, while on Wednesdays during school holidays an afternoon Rhydlios–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedrog–Pwllheli bus runs.
Bardsey Boat Trips operates passenger ferries between Porth Meudwy and Bardsey Island
. These are supplemented by Enlli Charters, who sail between Pwllheli and the island.
The nearest railway station is at Pwllheli, 14.8 miles (23.8 km) to the east, on the Cambrian Coast Line to Machynlleth
. Services are provided by Arriva Trains Wales
, with some trains continuing to Shrewsbury
and Birmingham
.
(Welsh Water), owned by Glas Cymru, a company limited by guarantee
. The electricity distribution company
is Scottish Power
, a subsidiary of the Basque
utility Iberdrola
.
Welsh Ambulance Services
provide ambulance and paramedic services; and North West Wales NHS Trust is responsible for hospital services. The nearest community hospital is Ysbyty Bryn Beryl at Pwllheli
; for 24-hour accident and emergency services the nearest provision is at Ysbyty Gwynedd in Bangor
. The general provision of health services is the responsibility of Gwynedd Local Health Board .
Law enforcement is the responsibility of North Wales Police
, formed in 1967 as Gwynedd Constabulary. North Wales Fire and Rescue Service
was created in 1996 by the merger of the Gwynedd
and Clwyd
fire brigades; it provides public protection services, operating out of the fire station at Abersoch
.
, Bryncroes
and Y Rhiw. The Elementary Education Act 1870
provided for local school boards, but was opposed by the established church. The process of establishing boards was lengthy, and the government had to enforce the regulations in Aberdaron, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw; the national school
opened at Y Rhiw in 1877 and had 74 pupils on its register; it closed in 1965.
Primary education
is now provided by Ysgol Crud y Werin in Aberdaron, which has 54 pupils, and by Ysgol Llidiardau in Rhoshirwaun, established in 1880, which has 21 pupils. At the last inspection of Ysgol Crud y Werin, by Estyn
in 2008, there were no pupils entitled to free school meals, and 84 per cent came from homes where Welsh was the main spoken language; Welsh is the main medium of teaching. Ysgol Llidiardau was last inspected in 2009; 18 per cent of pupils were entitled to free school meals and 36 per cent came from homes where Welsh was the predominant language. Secondary school pupils mainly attend Ysgol Botwnnog.
, serves the area; the local English newspapers are the Caernarfon and Denbigh Herald, published in Caernarfon
; and the Cambrian News
, published in Aberystwyth
. Summer harp recitals and concerts are held in St Hywyn's Church; Gŵyl Pen Draw'r Byd (The Land's End Festival) is a yearly event which includes beach side concerts and competitions on the shore, with an evening concert at Morfa Mawr Farm; Gŵyl Pentre Coll (The Lost Village Festival), a festival of contemporary acoustic music, has been held since 2008 at Felin Uchaf in Rhoshirwaun; and a local eisteddfod, Eisteddfod Flynyddol Uwchmynydd, is held at Ysgol Crud y Werin.
The poet Ronald Stuart Thomas
was vicar of St Hywyn's Church from 1967 to 1978; when he retired he lived for some years in Y Rhiw. An ardent Welsh nationalist who learnt to speak Welsh, his poetry was based on his religious faith. In 1995 he was nominated for the Nobel Prize in Literature
, and he was widely regarded as the best religious poet of his time. The subject of one of Thomas's poems, Richard Robert Jones, better known as "Dic Aberdaron
", was born in the village in 1780. Despite very little formal education, he is said to have been fluent in 14 languages, and spent years travelling the country accompanied by his books and his cat.
William Rowlands won a prize at the National Eisteddfod in 1922, for an adventure story written for boys. The book, Y Llong Lo (The Coal Ship) was published in 1924, and told the story of two boys who stow away on one of the ships that brought coal to Porth Neigwl. The South African poet Roy Campbell
published The Flaming Terrapin, written in a "croglofft cottage" above Porth Ysgo, in 1922; he was considered to be one of the best poets of the period between the two world wars. Considered one of the most significant Welsh poets of the 15th century, Dafydd Nanmor
, in Gwallt Llio, compared the striking yellow colour of the rocks at Uwchmynydd, covered by golden hair lichen
, to the colour of his loved one's hair. Lewys Daron
, a 16th-century poet best known for his elegy to friend and fellow poet Tudur Aled
, is thought to have been born in Aberdaron.
Yorkshire-born poet Christine Evans
lives half the year on Bardsey Island
and spends the winters at Uwchmynydd. She moved to Pwllheli
as a teacher and married into a Bardsey Island farming family. On maternity leave in 1976, she started writing poems; her first book was published seven years later. Cometary Phrases was Welsh Book of the Year 1989 and she was the winner of the inaugural Roland Mathias Prize in 2005.
Edgar Ewart Pritchard, an amateur film-maker from Brownhills
, produced "The Island in the Current", a colour movie of life on Bardsey Island, in 1953; a copy of the film is held by the National Screen and Sound Archive of Wales. A candle lantern, discovered in 1946 in a cowshed at Y Rhiw, is now displayed in St Fagans National History Museum
; and Iron Age
pottery found at Castell Odo is on display at Gwynedd Museum and Art Gallery in Bangor
.
Dilys Cadwaladr
, the former school teacher on Bardsey Island, in 1953 became the first woman to win the Crown at the National Eisteddfod for her long poem Y Llen; and artist Brenda Chamberlain
twice won the Gold Medal for Art at the Eisteddfod; some of the murals she painted can still be seen on the walls of Carreg, her island home from 1947 to 1962. Wildlife artist Kim Atkinson, whose work has been widely exhibited in Wales and England, spent her childhood on the island and returned to live there in the 1980s.
Since 1999, Bardsey Island Trust has appointed an Artist in Residence to spend several weeks on the island producing work which is later exhibited on the mainland. A Welsh literary residence was created in 2002; singer-songwriter Fflur Dafydd
spent six weeks working on a collection of poetry and prose. Her play Hugo was inspired by her stay, and she has produced two novels, Atyniad (Attraction), which won the prose medal at the 2006 Eisteddfod; and Twenty Thousand Saints, winner of the Oxfam Hay Prize, which tells how the women of the island, starved of men, turn to each other.
It was tradition for Bardsey Island to elect the "King of Bardsey" , and from 1820 onwards he would be crowned by Baron Newborough or his representative; the crown is now kept at Merseyside Maritime Museum
in Liverpool
, although calls have been made for it to return to Gwynedd. At the outbreak of the First World War, the last king, Love Pritchard, offered himself and the men of the island for military service, but he was refused as he was considered too old at the age of 71; Pritchard took umbrage, and declared the island to be a neutral power. In 1925 Pritchard left the island for the mainland, to seek a less laborious way of life, but died the following year.
Owen Griffith, a qualified pharmacist from Penycaerau, who was known as the "Doctor of the Wild Wart", used a traditional herbalist remedy to cure basal cell carcinoma
, also known as rodent ulcer; the remedy had supposedly been passed on to the family 300 years earlier by an Irish tinker
. In 1932 a woman died while receiving treatment and, even though the inquest
into her death found that no blame was apportioned to the treatment, the Chief Medical Officer for Caernarfonshire
vociferously condemned the treatment in the press. Former patients came out in support of the pharmacist, and petitions were sent to the Department of Health demanding that a medical licence be granted to Griffith and his cousin.
There are several folk tales of the Tylwyth Teg
, the fairy
people who inhabited the area and an invisible land in Cardigan Bay
. One tells of a farmer from Aberdaron who was in the habit of stepping outside his house before retiring to bed. One night he was spoken to by a stranger, who asked why the farmer was annoyed by him. The farmer, confused, asked what the stranger meant and was told to stand with one foot on the stranger's. This he did, and could see another house, just below his own, and that all the farm's slops went down the chimney of the invisible house. The stranger asked if the farmer would move his door to the other side of the house, which the farmer subsequently did, walling up the original door; from that day, the farmer's livestock flourished, and he became one of the most prosperous men in the area.
; it was a significant institution, a monastery and centre of religious learning, rather than simply a place of worship for the locals. The present double-naved St Hywyn's Church , built in 1137 and known as "The Cathedral of Llŷn", stands above the shore and was on the pilgrim route to Bardsey Island
. It contains a 12th-century Romanesque
arched door, and a square bell turret. The church was extended in 1417 and abandoned in 1841, when the locals decided to build a new church, Eglwys Newydd, in the village; the new building, however, proved unpopular and the congregation returned in 1906. Inside is a display about the life and works of the poet, Ronald Stuart Thomas
; and in the churchyard stand Y Meini Feracius a Senagus (The Veracius and Senacus Stones), the tombstones of two 5th-century Christian priests, found in the 18th century on farmland near Mynydd Anelog. In 2008 the church became the centre of controversy when the local vicar blessed a gay civil partnership, after approval by the local church council; the vicar was reprimanded by Barry Morgan
, the Archbishop of Wales
Aberdaron is a community
and former fishing village at the western tip of the Llŷn Peninsula
in the Welsh
county of Gwynedd
. It lies 14.8 miles (23.8 km) west of Pwllheli
and 33.5 miles (53.9 km) south west of Caernarfon
, and has a population of 1,019. It is sometimes referred to as the "Land's End of Wales" . The community includes Bardsey Island
, the coastal area around Porthor, and the villages of Anelog, Llanfaelrhys
, Penycaerau, Rhoshirwaun, Rhydlios, Uwchmynydd and Y Rhiw.
The village was the last rest stop for pilgrims heading to Bardsey Island, the legendary "island of 20,000 saints". In the 18th and 19th centuries it developed as a shipbuilding centre and port. The mining and quarrying industries became major employers, and limestone
, lead
, jasper
and manganese
were exported. After the Second World War the mining industry collapsed, and Aberdaron gradually developed into a popular holiday resort. The beach was awarded a Seaside Award in 2008.
The coastal waters are part of Pen Llŷn a'r Sarnau Special Area of Conservation , one of the largest marine designated sites in the United Kingdom. The coast itself forms part of the Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island Special Protection Area , and was designated a Heritage Coast in 1974. In 1956 the area was included in Llŷn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty . Conservation Areas have been created in Aberdaron, Bardsey Island and Y Rhiw; and the area has been designated a Landscape of Historic Interest.
hillfort
at Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum, suggests that the area around Aberdaron was colonised early, as a wave of Celtic settlers explored the Irish Sea
, probably around the 4th century BC. The construction was wholly defensive, but in later phases defence appears to have been less important, and in the last phase the fort's ramparts were deliberately flattened, suggesting there was no longer a need for defence. It appears that Aberdaron became a peaceful farming community. Ptolemy
calls the Llŷn Peninsula
"Ganganorum Promontorium" (Peninsula of the Gangani); the Gangani
were a tribe of Irish Celts, and it is thought there may have been strong ties with Leinster
.
The church at Aberdaron had the ancient privilege of sanctuary
. In 1094 Gruffydd ap Cynan
, the exiled King of Gwynedd
, sought refuge in the church while attempting to recapture his throne; he escaped in the monastic community's boat to Ireland. He regained his territories in 1101, and in 1115 Gruffydd ap Rhys
, the exiled prince of Deheubarth, took refuge at Aberdaron to escape capture by Gwynedd's ruler. Henry I of England
had invaded Gwynedd the previous year, and faced by an overwhelming force, Gruffydd ap Cynan had been forced to pay homage and a substantial fine to Henry. The King of Gwynedd, seeking to give up the exiled prince to Henry, ordered that the fugitive prince be dragged from the church by force, but his soldiers were beaten back by the local clergy; Gruffydd ap Rhys escaped under cover of night and fled south to join up with his supporters in Ystrad Tywi
.
Following the conquest of Gwynedd, in 1284, Edward I
set about touring his new territories. He visited the castles at Conwy
and Caernarfon
. Court was held at Nefyn
, at which his new subjects were expected to demonstrate their loyalty; and he visited Aberdaron on his way to Bardsey Abbey.
After the English Civil War
, when the Parliamentarians
under Oliver Cromwell
introduced a strongly Protestant regime, Catholicism
remained the dominant religion in the area. Catholics, who had largely supported the Royalist
side, were often considered to be traitors and efforts were made to eradicate the religion. The persecution even extended to Aberdaron, and in 1657, Gwen Griffiths of Y Rhiw was summoned to the Quarter Sessions
as a "papist".
Agricultural improvement
and the Industrial Revolution
came to Aberdaron in the 19th century. The Inclosure (Consolidation) Act 1801 was intended to make it easier for landlords to enclose and improve common land, introduce increased efficiency, bring more land under the plough, and reduce the high prices of agricultural production. Rhoshirwaun Common, following strong opposition, was enclosed in 1814; while the process was not completed in Aberdaron, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw until 1861. On the industrial front, mining developed as a major source of employment, especially at Y Rhiw, where manganese
was discovered in 1827.
During the Second World War, Y Rhiw played a vital role in preparations for the Normandy Landings. A team of electronic engineers set up an experimental ultra high frequency
radio station, from where they were able to make a direct link to stations in Fishguard
and Llandudno
. The system employed a frequency that the German forces were unable to either monitor or jam, and was used in the 1944 landings.
Aberdaron, Bardsey Island, Bodferin
, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw were civil parishes in Cwmwd Cymydmaen
within Cantref Llŷn
, in Caernarfonshire
. Following the Poor Law Amendment Act 1834
, parishes were grouped into "unions": Pwllheli Poor Law Union was created in 1837. Under the Public Health Act 1848 the area of the poor law union became Pwllheli Rural Sanitary District, which from 1889 formed a second tier of local government under Caernarfonshire County Council. Y Rhiw was absorbed into the smaller Llanfaelrhys in 1886; and under the Local Government Act 1894
the four remaining parishes became part of Llŷn Rural District . Bodferin, Llanfaelrhys, and parts of Bryncroes
and Llangwnnadl
, were amalgamated into Aberdaron in 1934. Llŷn Rural District was abolished in 1974, and Bardsey Island was absorbed into Aberdaron to form a community
within Dwyfor District
in the new county
of Gwynedd
; Dwyfor was abolished when Gwynedd became a unitary authority
in 1996.
The community now forms an electoral division
of Cyngor Gwynedd
(Gwynedd Council), electing one councillor; William Gareth Roberts of Plaid Cymru
was re-elected in 2008. Aberdaron Community Council has 12 elected members, who represent three wards: Aberdaron De (Aberdaron South), Aberdaron Dwyrain (Aberdaron East) and Aberdaron Gogledd (Aberdaron North). Ten Independent
councillors and one from Plaid Cymru were elected unopposed in the 2008 election.
From 1950, Aberdaron was part of Caernarfon
parliamentary constituency. In 2010, the community was transferred to Dwyfor Meirionnydd
constituency, represented by Elfyn Llwyd
of Plaid Cymru. In the National Assembly for Wales
it has, since 2007, formed part of Dwyfor Meirionnydd
assembly constituency, represented by Dafydd Elis-Thomas
, also of Plaid Cymru, who until 2011 was the Presiding Officer
of the assembly. The constituency forms part of the electoral region of Mid and West Wales.
Aberdaron stands on the shore of Bae Aberdaron (Aberdaron Bay) in a small valley at the confluence of the Afon Daron and Afon Cyll-y-Felin, between the headlands of Uwchmynydd to the west, and Trwyn y Penrhyn to the east. At the mouth of the bay stand two islands, Ynys Gwylan-Fawr and Ynys Gwylan-Fach, which together are known as Ynysoedd Gwylanod (Seagull Islands). The Llŷn Peninsula
is a marine eroded platform, an extension of the Snowdonia
massif, with a complex geology including Precambrian
rocks. The coastline is rocky, with crags, scree
s and low cliffs; heather covered hills are separated by valleys occupied by pastures.
To the east, Mynydd Rhiw, Mynydd y Graig and Mynydd Penarfynydd form a 3 miles (4.8 km) long series of hog-back ridges of igneous rock that reaches the sea at Trwyn Talfarach. Above 800 feet (243.8 m) the ridges are topped by hard gabbro
. At its northern end Mynydd Rhiw rises to 1000 feet (304.8 m), the outcrop of Clip y Gylfinhir (Curlew's Crag) looming above the village of Y Rhiw. Mynydd Penarfynydd is one of the best exposures of intrusive, layered, igneous rock in the British Isles.
East of Y Rhiw is an extensive low-lying plateau between 65 feet (19.8 m) and 100 feet (30.5 m) above sea level. The coastal rock is softer here, and the sea has been free to erode the rock and boulder clay
to form sand, resulting in the spacious beach of Porth Neigwl (Hell's Mouth).
West of Aberdaron, four peaks rise above the rocky shoreline at Uwchmynydd. Mynydd Anelog stands 620 feet (189 m) high, Mynydd Mawr at 490 feet (149.4 m), Mynydd y Gwyddel rises to 295 feet (89.9 m) and Mynydd Bychestyn is 330 feet (100.6 m) above sea level.
Bardsey Island
lies 1.9 miles (3 km) off Pen y Cil. The island is 0.6 mile (0.965604 km) wide and 1 miles (1.6 km) long. The north east rises steeply from the sea to a height of 548 feet (167 m). The western plain, in contrast, comprises low, and relatively flat, cultivated farmland; in the south the island narrows to an isthmus
, connecting to a peninsula.
The coast around Aberdaron has been the scene of many shipwrecks. In 1822, the Bardsey Island lighthouse tender was wrecked, with the loss of six lives; and in 1752, the schooner John the Baptist, carrying a cargo of oats from Wexford
to Liverpool
, was wrecked on the beach at Aberdaron. The sailing ship Newry, with 400 passengers bound from Warrenpoint
to Québec
, was wrecked at Porth Orion in 1880. The crew abandoned the passengers, leaving just the captain, ship's mate and one sailor, assisted by three local men, to lead 375 men, women and children to safety. A great storm swept the country on 26 October 1859 and many ships were lost: nine were wrecked at Porthor, seven of them with complete loss of life. On the south coast, vessels were often driven ashore at Porth Neigwl by a combination of south westerly gales and treacherous offshore currents. The Transit was lost in 1839, the Arfestone the following year, and the Henry Catherine in 1866. The bay earned its English title, "Hell's Mouth", from its reputation for wrecks during the days of the sailing ship.
Aberdaron is noted for low levels of air pollution. The Gwynedd State of the Environment Report in 2004 found levels of sulfur dioxide
, nitrogen dioxide
and carbon monoxide
very low, and particulates
to be low. It is one of the few sites in the United Kingdom for golden hair lichen
, a striking bright orange lichen that is very sensitive to air pollution. The climate is relatively mild and, because of the Gulf Stream
, frosts are rare in winter.
for over a thousand years, and Aberdaron has exported wool for many years. The main product locally was felt
, produced by soaking the cloth in water and beating it with large wooden paddles until the wool formed a thick mat which could be flattened, dried and cut into lengths. There were two fulling mills
on the Afon Daron, in addition to three corn mills
, and lichen
was gathered around Y Rhiw, from which a grey dye was extracted. Arable crops consisted mainly of wheat
, barley
, oats
and potatoes. The field boundaries date back several centuries and are marked by walls, cloddiau and hedgerows; important habitats for a variety of wildlife.
Wrecking and smuggling supplemented local incomes. In 1743 John Roberts and Huw Bedward from Y Rhiw were found guilty of the murder of two shipwrecked sailors on the beach at Porth Neigwl on 6 January 1742, and hanged; Jonathan Morgan had been killed by a knife thrust into the nape of his neck, and Edward Halesham, described as a boy, had been choked to death. A ship claimed to be from France
unloaded illicit tea and brandy at Aberdaron in 1767, and attempted to sell its cargo to the locals; a Revenue cutter discovered salt being smuggled at Porth Cadlan in 1809; and a schooner on route from Guernsey
to Scotland
was reported to have offloaded lace, tea, brandy and gin at Y Rhiw in 1824.
During the 19th century good quality limestone
and a small amount of lead
ore were quarried in the village. Jasper
was mined at Carreg; granite was quarried at Porth y Pistyll; and there was a brickworks at Porth Neigwl. The main source of income, however, was herring fishing
. A regular shipping service was operated to Liverpool
, exporting pigs, poultry and eggs; the vessels returned laden with coal for the neighbourhood. Limestone was also imported and offloaded into the water at high tide, then collected from the beach when the tide went out. Lime was needed to reduce the acidity of the local soil, and lime kilns were built on the beaches at Porthor, Porth Orion, Porth Meudwy, Aberdaron and Y Rhiw to convert the limestone to quicklime. There was shipbuilding at Porth Neigwl, where the last ship, a sloop
named the Ebenezer, was built in 1841; and at Porthor, which came to an end with the building of a schooner
, the Sarah, in 1842. Aberdaron's last ship, the sloop Victory, had been built in 1792, and the last ship to come out of Porth Ysgo had been another sloop, the Grace, in 1778.
The outbreak of the First World War resulted in a great demand for manganese
as a strengthening agent for steel. Ore had been discovered at Y Rhiw in 1827, and the industry became a substantial employer in the village; over 113000 long tons (114,813.7 t) of ore were extracted between 1840 and 1945, and in 1906 the industry employed 200 people.
Tourism began to develop after 1918. The first tourist guide to the village was published in 1910 and extolled the virtues of "the salubrious sea and mountain breezes"; in addition to the two hotels in the village, local farmhouses took in visitors, which provided an extra source of income.
At the 2001 census, 59.4 per cent of the population were in employment, and 23.5 per cent were self employed; the unemployment rate was 2.3 per cent; and 16.0 per cent were retired. Of those employed, 17.7 per cent worked in agriculture; 15.8 per cent in the wholesale and retail trades; 10.7 per cent in construction; and 10.5 per cent in education. Those working from home amounted to 32.3 per cent; 15.2 per cent travelled less than 6.2 miles (10 km) to their place of work; and 23.6 per cent travelled more than 25 miles (40 km). The community is included in Pwllheli and Llŷn Regeneration Area and was identified in the Welsh Index of Multiple Deprivation 2005 as the electoral division in Gwynedd
with least access to services; and was ranked 13th in Wales. An agricultural census in 2000 recorded 33,562 sheep, 4,380 calves, 881 beef cattle, 607 dairy cattle, and 18 pigs; there were 310 acres (125.5 ha) of growing crops.
Two stone bridges, Pont Fawr (Large Bridge) and Pont Fach (Small Bridge), built in 1823, cross the Afon Daron and Afon Cyll y Felin in the centre of Aberdaron. Beyond the bridges the road opens up to create a small market square. The Old Post Office was designed by Portmerion architect, Clough Williams-Ellis
.
Y Gegin Fawr (The Big Kitchen) was built in the 13th century as a communal kitchen where pilgrims could claim a meal on their way to Bardsey Island
. Aberdaron was the last place on the route for rest and refreshment and pilgrims often had to wait weeks in the village for a chance to cross the treacherous waters of Bardsey Sound .
Next to the car park is a field, Cae y Grogbren (Gallows Field), near which is a large red rock. In the Middle Ages, the abbot from the monastery on Bardsey Island visited the rock to dispense justice to local criminals; if they were found guilty, the wrongdoer would be hanged and thrown into Pwll Ddiwaelod (The Bottomless Pool). The pool is a kettle lake, formed at the end of the Ice Age
, when blocks of ice were trapped underground and melted to form round, deep pools.
Above the village, on the Afon Daron, stands Bodwrdda, an early 16th-century stone-built house, which had a fulling
mill adjacent; two large brick-built wings were added later, giving an imposing three-storey facade containing with 17th century windows. To the south, Penrhyn Mawr is a substantial late 18th century gable-fronted farmhouse.
, 1.9 miles (3.1 km) off the mainland, was inhabited in Neolithic
times, and traces of hut circles remain. During the 5th century the island became a refuge for persecuted Christians, and a small Celtic
monastery existed. Saint Cadfan
arrived from Brittany
in 516 and, under his guidance St Mary's Abbey was built. For centuries the island was important as "the holy place of burial for all the bravest and best in the land". Bards called it "the land of indulgences, absolution and pardon, the road to Heaven, and the gate to Paradise"; and in medieval times three pilgrimages to Bardsey Island were considered to be of equivalent benefit to the soul as one to Rome. In 1188 the abbey was still a Celtic institution, but by 1212 it belonged to the Augustinians. Many people still walk to Aberdaron and Uwchmynydd each year in the footsteps of the saints, although today only ruins of the old abbey's 13th-century bell tower remain. A Celtic cross
amidst the ruins commemorates the 20,000 saints reputed to be buried on the island.
The island was declared a National Nature Reserve
in 1986, and is part of Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island Special Protection Area . It is now a favourite bird-watching location, on the migration routes of thousands of birds. Bardsey Bird and Field Observatory , founded in 1953, nets and rings 8,000 birds each year to understand their migration patterns.
Bardsey Island Trust bought the island in 1979, after an appeal supported by the Church in Wales
and many Welsh academics and public figures. The trust is financed through membership subscriptions, grants and donations, and is dedicated to protecting the wildlife, buildings and archaeological sites of the island; promoting its artistic and cultural life; and encouraging people to visit as a place of natural beauty and pilgrimage. When, in 2000, the trust advertised for a tenant for the 440 acres (178.1 ha) sheep farm on the island, they had 1,100 applications. The tenancy is now held by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds
; and the land is managed to maintain the natural habitat. Oats
, turnips and swedes
are grown; goats, ducks, geese and chickens kept; and there is a mixed flock of sheep
and Welsh black cattle
.
, is reached by a steep slope from Llanfaelrhys
, 3.3 miles (5.3 km) east of Aberdaron, past a disused manganese mine in Nant y Gadwen; the mine closed in 1927, and produced 45644 long tons (46,376.6 t) in its lifetime. Where the path from Ysgo reaches the beach, a waterfall, Pistyll y Gaseg, tumbles over the cliff. At the eastern end of the bay is Porth Alwm, where the stream from Nant y Gadwen flows into the sea. The south-facing beach is composed of fine, firm sand.
To the west, King Arthur
's last battle against his arch enemy, Mordred
, was supposedly fought in the fields around Porth Cadlan. Offshore lies a rock, Maen Gwenonwy, named after Arthur's sister.
Lladron Maelrhys are two large stones on the border between Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw. It is claimed that, years ago, thieves broke into St Maelrhys Church, intent on stealing money. Caught in the act, they fled for their lives but were caught as they approached Y Rhiw, and killed on the spot; the stones mark their burial place. Another version claims that as they crossed the parish boundary they were turned to stone for their sacrilege.
Porthor (Whistling Sands) is a cove
3.2 miles (5.1 km) north of Aberdaron that has smooth white sand; when dry, the sand whistles, or squeaks, underfoot. The crescent-shaped beach is backed by steep cliffs of relatively hard rock, from which the cove has been sculpted by the rough seas. The bay is the centre of a National Trust
estate which consists of 420 acres (170 ha) of shoreline, headland and farmland, and includes Mynydd Carreg and Mynydd Anelog.
On the hill summits that dot the headlands are heather
and gorse, shaped by the prevailing wind; thrift
and wild thyme thrive on the acidic soil. The cliffs are a stronghold of the chough
, and a nesting place for razorbills and guillemots
. On the lower rocks, in reach of the waves, are plentiful lichens, seaweeds, sponges, limpets and barnacles.
To the south are Dinas Bach and Dinas Mawr, twin peninsulas formed from weathered pillow lavas 600 million years old, thought to have been early fortified sites from the Iron Age
. Kittiwakes
, cormorants
and shags can be seen on the cliffs, while farm birds such as the yellowhammer
frequent the gorse. On Mynydd Anelog, experimental plots have been marked out to monitor different methods of managing heather to discover the best way the habitat can be conserved for the future.
North of Porthor is Porth Iago, a south-facing narrow inlet and rocky cove, which has a small beach and steep cliffs.
y area. It provided fuel from peat cuttings, pasture for animals and accommodated squatters, mainly fishermen, who had encroached on the common with the tacit acceptance of the community. An inclosure act was drawn up in 1802, designed to remove all squatters who had been there less than 20 years. Resistance to the evictions was fierce and was only suppressed by a contingent of dragoons. The act was finally applied in 1814; new roads were built across the moor; boundaries were established; allotments allocated; and wetland reclaimed.
Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum, is one of Europe's earliest Iron Age Settlements, standing 480 feet (146.3 m) above sea level. The hillfort
, 165 feet (50.3 m) in diameter, has visible traces of eight circular huts; pottery found on the site dates from 425 BC. Legend has it that a giant, Odo Gawr, is buried under a cairn of stones on the summit; nearby is a huge rock known as Carreg Samson, supposedly thrown from Uwchmynydd by Samson
. The holes in the rock are said to be the imprint of his fingers; a pot of gold reputedly lies underneath.
To the east of the village, Felin Uchaf is an educational centre exploring ways of living and working in partnership with the environment. Developed on a redundant farm, it provides residential courses in rural skills and sustainable agriculture. A traditional Iron Age
roundhouse has been built on the site.
flints have been found in the area, and a Neolithic stone axe was discovered on Mynydd Mawr. Hut circles are visible on the summits, and part of a Roman
anchor was recovered off Trwyn Bychestyn.
At Mynydd Mawr the picnic site
has views which, on a fine day, take in Cardigan Bay
, Bardsey Island
and the Wicklow Mountains
; at night, South Stack Lighthouse
is visible in the distance. A road to the summit, owned by the National Trust
, was built during the Second World War to provide access to the heights, where men were posted to give early warning to Liverpool
of Luftwaffe air raids. The former Coastguard
lookout point, manned for almost 80 years before becoming redundant in 1990, provides views over Bardsey Sound to the island. The hut contains an exhibition to the natural history of the area, and a mural created by local children.
The headland at Braich y Pwll is the only known location on the British mainland of the spotted rock rose
, which produces bright yellow petals that last only one day. The coast here has open grass heath land and mountain, giving way to rugged sea cliffs and coves. There is a profusion of wildlife, and it is an ideal vantage point to watch the spring and autumn bird migrations. Chough
s, peregrine falcon
s, kestrels
, puffins
, stonechats
, guillemots
and Manx shearwater
s can be seen, and dolphins, porpoises and seals can be spotted in the water.
Above the sea cliffs are the remains of Capel Mair (St Mary's Chapel), where it was customary for pilgrims to invoke the protection of the Virgin Mary before making the dangerous crossing to Bardsey Island. At the foot of Mynydd Mawr is Ffynnon Fair (St Mary's Well), the last stop for pilgrims crossing to the island; the well is a freshwater spring which is covered twice daily by the sea, emerging from the ebbing tide with crystal clear water.
Cwrt (Court), now a large farm, was the administrative centre of Bardsey Abbey's mainland estates, and was known as the "Court of Bardsey". The steepest cliffs in the Llŷn Peninsula
are at Y Parwyd, the scene of a local ghost story. In 1794 a newly married couple moved into a cottage nearby. Within a few years they were disturbed by a phantom, but when they read a verse from the Bible, the phantom would retreat towards Y Parwyd and hover over the cliff edge before disappearing; the couple finally moved to Bodferin
. In 1801 a ship pilot was put ashore on the rocks below the cliffs. Although very drunk, he managed to climb the cliff face and, reaching the top, fell asleep in a sheep pen. In the early morning, he awoke and, still drunk, headed for home; he walked in the wrong direction, however, and disappeared over the cliff edge into the sea.
The traditional embarkation point for pilgrims crossing to Bardsey Island was at Porth Meudwy (Hermit's Cove), now a lobster fishing
cove. Further south is Porth y Pistyll, which has good views of Ynysoedd Gwylanod, home to puffin and guillemot colonies; and Pen y Cil, where the Precambrian
pillow lavas are exposed, revealing how they have been contorted over time.
The mountain-top hamlet of Y Rhiw is 3.9 miles (6.3 km) to the east. There are fine views of Llŷn
towards Snowdonia
. On the slopes of Mynydd Rhiw is a late Stone Age
burial chamber, and Neolithic quarries. Nearby on Mynydd y Graig are three hillforts
, several hut circles and terraced fields that are thought to date from the late Iron Age
; in 1955 a Bronze Age
cinerary urn was uncovered in the village.
Plas yn Rhiw, owned by the National Trust
, is an early 17th-century house that was restored by the Keating sisters in 1939, with advice from Clough Williams-Ellis
. It is believed that the house is on or near the site of an earlier defended house, built by Meirion Goch in the 10th century to prevent incursions by Vikings into Porth Neigwl.
. The road runs east to Llanbedrog
, where it connects with the A499 Pwllheli
to Abersoch
road.
Buses are provided by two companies. Service 17 is operated by Nefyn Coaches, with six Monday to Saturday return journeys on the Pwllheli–Llanbedrog–Mynytho
–Nanhoron–Botwnnog
–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Penygroeslon–Rhoshirwaun–Aberdaron route. Two of the Aberdaron bound journeys divert through Bryn-croes. Arriva Buses Wales
provide a late night return journey on Saturdays. Service 17 is supplemented by Nefyn Coaches service 17b, running return journeys twice a day, Monday to Saturday, largely over the same route, but with diversions to serve Penllech
and Llangwnnad towards Aberdaron, or Penycaerau and Y Rhiw heading back to Pwllheli.
The irregular Nefyn Coaches service 8b has an early morning weekday Nefyn
–Tudweiliog
–Llangwnnadl
–Penygroeslon–Rhydlios bus, which operates only during school holidays. On Wednesdays throughout the year, a return journey runs the Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd–Aberdaron–Penycaerau–Y Rhiw–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedrog–Pwllheli route. On other weekdays a Nefyn–Tudweiliog–Llangwnnadl–Penygroeslon–Aberdaron–Uwchmynydd bus runs. On Wednesdays during school terms, an afternoon journey runs on the Y Rhiw–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedgrog–Pwllheli route. At weekends, a Saturday morning bus operates Nefyn–Dinas–Rhos-ddu–Brynmawr–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Pant–Uwchmynydd. This then makes a journey through the heart of Llŷn on the Uwchmynydd–Porth Or–Rhydlios–Pant–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Brynmawr–Rhos-ddu–Dinas–Llaniestyn–Garnfadryn–Rhyd-y-clafdy–Efailnewydd
–Pwllheli route, returning in the afternoon. It completes the day retracing its steps over the Uwchmynydd–Pant–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Brynmawr–Rhos-ddu–Dinas–Nefyn route.
On weekdays other than Wednesdays, Nefyn Coaches service 334 runs a morning Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd–Aberdaron–Penygroeslon–Llangwnnadl–Tudweiliog–Nefyn route. A second journey at midday operates from Uwchmynydd over the same route to Nefyn, and on to Pwllheli. Each weekday, an early evening bus runs the Penygroeslon–Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd route, while on Wednesdays during school holidays an afternoon Rhydlios–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedrog–Pwllheli bus runs.
Bardsey Boat Trips operates passenger ferries between Porth Meudwy and Bardsey Island
. These are supplemented by Enlli Charters, who sail between Pwllheli and the island.
The nearest railway station is at Pwllheli, 14.8 miles (23.8 km) to the east, on the Cambrian Coast Line to Machynlleth
. Services are provided by Arriva Trains Wales
, with some trains continuing to Shrewsbury
and Birmingham
.
(Welsh Water), owned by Glas Cymru, a company limited by guarantee
. The electricity distribution company
is Scottish Power
, a subsidiary of the Basque
utility Iberdrola
.
Welsh Ambulance Services
provide ambulance and paramedic services; and North West Wales NHS Trust is responsible for hospital services. The nearest community hospital is Ysbyty Bryn Beryl at Pwllheli
; for 24-hour accident and emergency services the nearest provision is at Ysbyty Gwynedd in Bangor
. The general provision of health services is the responsibility of Gwynedd Local Health Board .
Law enforcement is the responsibility of North Wales Police
, formed in 1967 as Gwynedd Constabulary. North Wales Fire and Rescue Service
was created in 1996 by the merger of the Gwynedd
and Clwyd
fire brigades; it provides public protection services, operating out of the fire station at Abersoch
.
, Bryncroes
and Y Rhiw. The Elementary Education Act 1870
provided for local school boards, but was opposed by the established church. The process of establishing boards was lengthy, and the government had to enforce the regulations in Aberdaron, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw; the national school
opened at Y Rhiw in 1877 and had 74 pupils on its register; it closed in 1965.
Primary education
is now provided by Ysgol Crud y Werin in Aberdaron, which has 54 pupils, and by Ysgol Llidiardau in Rhoshirwaun, established in 1880, which has 21 pupils. At the last inspection of Ysgol Crud y Werin, by Estyn
in 2008, there were no pupils entitled to free school meals, and 84 per cent came from homes where Welsh was the main spoken language; Welsh is the main medium of teaching. Ysgol Llidiardau was last inspected in 2009; 18 per cent of pupils were entitled to free school meals and 36 per cent came from homes where Welsh was the predominant language. Secondary school pupils mainly attend Ysgol Botwnnog.
, serves the area; the local English newspapers are the Caernarfon and Denbigh Herald, published in Caernarfon
; and the Cambrian News
, published in Aberystwyth
. Summer harp recitals and concerts are held in St Hywyn's Church; Gŵyl Pen Draw'r Byd (The Land's End Festival) is a yearly event which includes beach side concerts and competitions on the shore, with an evening concert at Morfa Mawr Farm; Gŵyl Pentre Coll (The Lost Village Festival), a festival of contemporary acoustic music, has been held since 2008 at Felin Uchaf in Rhoshirwaun; and a local eisteddfod, Eisteddfod Flynyddol Uwchmynydd, is held at Ysgol Crud y Werin.
The poet Ronald Stuart Thomas
was vicar of St Hywyn's Church from 1967 to 1978; when he retired he lived for some years in Y Rhiw. An ardent Welsh nationalist who learnt to speak Welsh, his poetry was based on his religious faith. In 1995 he was nominated for the Nobel Prize in Literature
, and he was widely regarded as the best religious poet of his time. The subject of one of Thomas's poems, Richard Robert Jones, better known as "Dic Aberdaron
", was born in the village in 1780. Despite very little formal education, he is said to have been fluent in 14 languages, and spent years travelling the country accompanied by his books and his cat.
William Rowlands won a prize at the National Eisteddfod in 1922, for an adventure story written for boys. The book, Y Llong Lo (The Coal Ship) was published in 1924, and told the story of two boys who stow away on one of the ships that brought coal to Porth Neigwl. The South African poet Roy Campbell
published The Flaming Terrapin, written in a "croglofft cottage" above Porth Ysgo, in 1922; he was considered to be one of the best poets of the period between the two world wars. Considered one of the most significant Welsh poets of the 15th century, Dafydd Nanmor
, in Gwallt Llio, compared the striking yellow colour of the rocks at Uwchmynydd, covered by golden hair lichen
, to the colour of his loved one's hair. Lewys Daron
, a 16th-century poet best known for his elegy to friend and fellow poet Tudur Aled
, is thought to have been born in Aberdaron.
Yorkshire-born poet Christine Evans
lives half the year on Bardsey Island
and spends the winters at Uwchmynydd. She moved to Pwllheli
as a teacher and married into a Bardsey Island farming family. On maternity leave in 1976, she started writing poems; her first book was published seven years later. Cometary Phrases was Welsh Book of the Year 1989 and she was the winner of the inaugural Roland Mathias Prize in 2005.
Edgar Ewart Pritchard, an amateur film-maker from Brownhills
, produced "The Island in the Current", a colour movie of life on Bardsey Island, in 1953; a copy of the film is held by the National Screen and Sound Archive of Wales. A candle lantern, discovered in 1946 in a cowshed at Y Rhiw, is now displayed in St Fagans National History Museum
; and Iron Age
pottery found at Castell Odo is on display at Gwynedd Museum and Art Gallery in Bangor
.
Dilys Cadwaladr
, the former school teacher on Bardsey Island, in 1953 became the first woman to win the Crown at the National Eisteddfod for her long poem Y Llen; and artist Brenda Chamberlain
twice won the Gold Medal for Art at the Eisteddfod; some of the murals she painted can still be seen on the walls of Carreg, her island home from 1947 to 1962. Wildlife artist Kim Atkinson, whose work has been widely exhibited in Wales and England, spent her childhood on the island and returned to live there in the 1980s.
Since 1999, Bardsey Island Trust has appointed an Artist in Residence to spend several weeks on the island producing work which is later exhibited on the mainland. A Welsh literary residence was created in 2002; singer-songwriter Fflur Dafydd
spent six weeks working on a collection of poetry and prose. Her play Hugo was inspired by her stay, and she has produced two novels, Atyniad (Attraction), which won the prose medal at the 2006 Eisteddfod; and Twenty Thousand Saints, winner of the Oxfam Hay Prize, which tells how the women of the island, starved of men, turn to each other.
It was tradition for Bardsey Island to elect the "King of Bardsey" , and from 1820 onwards he would be crowned by Baron Newborough or his representative; the crown is now kept at Merseyside Maritime Museum
in Liverpool
, although calls have been made for it to return to Gwynedd. At the outbreak of the First World War, the last king, Love Pritchard, offered himself and the men of the island for military service, but he was refused as he was considered too old at the age of 71; Pritchard took umbrage, and declared the island to be a neutral power. In 1925 Pritchard left the island for the mainland, to seek a less laborious way of life, but died the following year.
Owen Griffith, a qualified pharmacist from Penycaerau, who was known as the "Doctor of the Wild Wart", used a traditional herbalist remedy to cure basal cell carcinoma
, also known as rodent ulcer; the remedy had supposedly been passed on to the family 300 years earlier by an Irish tinker
. In 1932 a woman died while receiving treatment and, even though the inquest
into her death found that no blame was apportioned to the treatment, the Chief Medical Officer for Caernarfonshire
vociferously condemned the treatment in the press. Former patients came out in support of the pharmacist, and petitions were sent to the Department of Health demanding that a medical licence be granted to Griffith and his cousin.
There are several folk tales of the Tylwyth Teg
, the fairy
people who inhabited the area and an invisible land in Cardigan Bay
. One tells of a farmer from Aberdaron who was in the habit of stepping outside his house before retiring to bed. One night he was spoken to by a stranger, who asked why the farmer was annoyed by him. The farmer, confused, asked what the stranger meant and was told to stand with one foot on the stranger's. This he did, and could see another house, just below his own, and that all the farm's slops went down the chimney of the invisible house. The stranger asked if the farmer would move his door to the other side of the house, which the farmer subsequently did, walling up the original door; from that day, the farmer's livestock flourished, and he became one of the most prosperous men in the area.
; it was a significant institution, a monastery and centre of religious learning, rather than simply a place of worship for the locals. The present double-naved St Hywyn's Church , built in 1137 and known as "The Cathedral of Llŷn", stands above the shore and was on the pilgrim route to Bardsey Island
. It contains a 12th-century Romanesque
arched door, and a square bell turret. The church was extended in 1417 and abandoned in 1841, when the locals decided to build a new church, Eglwys Newydd, in the village; the new building, however, proved unpopular and the congregation returned in 1906. Inside is a display about the life and works of the poet, Ronald Stuart Thomas
; and in the churchyard stand Y Meini Feracius a Senagus (The Veracius and Senacus Stones), the tombstones of two 5th-century Christian priests, found in the 18th century on farmland near Mynydd Anelog. In 2008 the church became the centre of controversy when the local vicar blessed a gay civil partnership, after approval by the local church council; the vicar was reprimanded by Barry Morgan
, the Archbishop of Wales
). Referring to the archbishop's protests, the vicar stated "There was a bit of a to-do about it".
The church at Llanfaelrhys
is the only one in the United Kingdom dedicated to Saint Maelrhys
, the cousin of both Saint Cadfan and Saint Hywyn, who accompanied them to Wales from Brittany
. Legend attributes the building of the church to a trader who landed a cargo of flour near Aberdaron during a famine; he used the profit from his sale to construct a small church for the locals. Much of the building is medieval; the font dates back to the 15th century; and there are plain hard wooden benches on the north side; on the south side are 19th-century wooden box pews. The graveyard contains the graves of the three Keating sisters, who restored Plas yn Rhiw.
St Aelrhiw's Church at Y Rhiw was built in 1860 on the footings of an earlier church. It consists of a small nave and short chancel; aisles to the north and south; and has boulder-built walls and a slate roof. The churchyard contains the graves of some of the bodies that were washed up at Porth Neigwl during the first World War. Above Porth Iago is the site of the ancient St Medin's Church; now just a mound in the middle of a field, it was the parish church of Bodferin.
One of the first non-conformists in the area was Morgan Griffith of Y Rhiw. In 1745 he was brought before the court in Pwllheli
, where he was jailed for failing to renounce his beliefs. After his release he returned to Y Rhiw and began to preach again. Re-arrested, he was returned to a prison ship
in England, where he subsequently died. Two of the earliest non-conformist chapels in the Llŷn Peninsula were established at Penycaerau, in 1768, and Uwchmynydd, in 1770; the Congregationalists opened Cephas Independent Chapel in 1829; and Capel Nebo was built at Y Rhiw in 1813; the Wesleyan Methodists
followed in 1832 at Capel Pisgah. By 1850 there were eight non-conformist chapels in Aberdaron; five in Y Rhiw; and one on Bardsey Island; but more were to be built. The Calvinistic Methodists
opened Capel Tan y Foel; and Capel Bethesda, the Baptist
chapel at Rhoshirwaun, was built in 1904. Aberdaron is also home to a Seventh-day Adventist
youth camp named Glan-yr-afon, located 1 miles (1.6 km) from the village centre.
At the 2001 census 73.9 per cent of the population claimed to be Christian
and 15.0 per cent stated that they had no religion.
featuring clinker
built boats unique to the area; there is a popular regatta every August where the races are open to everyone. Sea angling
trips are operated from Porth Meudwy, fishing for pollock
, coley
and mackerel
; wrasse
, bass
, mullet
and gurnard
are also possible. Bass and coley can be caught from the rocks at Porth Iago; and wrasse, pollock and mackerel are plentiful. Access is difficult at Uwchmynydd, but pollock, mackerel, wrasse and conger
are caught; huss
are plentiful; and ling
are found occasionally.
The village is a popular walking centre
and lies on the Llŷn Coastal Path , which runs 84 miles (135.2 km) from Caernarfon
to Porthmadog
. Kayaking
is possible from both Aberdaron and Porth Neigwl, and the south-facing "sunshine coast" is a major attraction; there are camping facilities
for canoeists on the shores of Porth Neigwl. Tidal streams are generally weak, although landing conditions are tricky when there is wind or swell from the south.
The area has excellent diving
. Underwater visibility at Bardsey Island
extends to 66 feet (20.1 m) and there is a rich variety of sea life; it is considered some of the best diving in Gwynedd
. The Ynysoedd Gwylanod are particularly popular, and the wreck of the Glenocum, in Bae Aberdaron, is excellent for novices, having a maximum depth of 26 feet (7.9 m); an extremely large conger eel
lives in the lower section of the boiler openings. There is spectacular diving at Pen y Cil, where there is a slate wreck and an unusual cave dive; nearby Carreg Ddu is an isolated rocky island in Bardsey Sound, although care must be taken as there are strong currents.
Bathing
is popular along the coast. Aberdaron Beach, facing south west, is sandy, gently shelving and safe; it received a Seaside Award in 2008. Porthor also attracts bathers, and has sands which squeak when walked on; the beach at Porth Neigwl was awarded a Green Coast Award in 2009;
Aberdaron Beach is a surfing
and bodyboarding
location for surfers of all levels, although it can be dangerous at high tide when the waves break directly onto boulders underneath the cliff. The better surfers head for the northern end.
Community (Wales)
A community is a division of land in Wales that forms the lowest-tier of local government in Wales. Welsh communities are analogous to civil parishes in England....
and former fishing village at the western tip of the Llŷn Peninsula
Llŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
in the Welsh
Wales
Wales is a country that is part of the United Kingdom and the island of Great Britain, bordered by England to its east and the Atlantic Ocean and Irish Sea to its west. It has a population of three million, and a total area of 20,779 km²...
county of Gwynedd
Gwynedd
Gwynedd is a county in north-west Wales, named after the old Kingdom of Gwynedd. Although the second biggest in terms of geographical area, it is also one of the most sparsely populated...
. It lies 14.8 miles (23.8 km) west of Pwllheli
Pwllheli
Pwllheli is a community and the main market town of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, north-western Wales. It has a population of 3,861, of which a large proportion, 81 per cent, are Welsh speaking. Pwllheli is the place where Plaid Cymru was founded. It is the birthplace of Albert Evans-Jones -...
and 33.5 miles (53.9 km) south west of Caernarfon
Caernarfon
Caernarfon is a Royal town, community and port in Gwynedd, Wales, with a population of 9,611. It lies along the A487 road, on the east banks of the Menai Straits, opposite the Isle of Anglesey. The city of Bangor is to the northeast, while Snowdonia fringes Caernarfon to the east and southeast...
, and has a population of 1,019. It is sometimes referred to as the "Land's End of Wales" . The community includes Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
, the coastal area around Porthor, and the villages of Anelog, Llanfaelrhys
Llanfaelrhys
Llanfaelrhys is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd, located on the Llŷn Peninsula. The parish was abolished in 1934 and incorporated into Aberdaron.-External links:...
, Penycaerau, Rhoshirwaun, Rhydlios, Uwchmynydd and Y Rhiw.
The village was the last rest stop for pilgrims heading to Bardsey Island, the legendary "island of 20,000 saints". In the 18th and 19th centuries it developed as a shipbuilding centre and port. The mining and quarrying industries became major employers, and limestone
Limestone
Limestone is a sedimentary rock composed largely of the minerals calcite and aragonite, which are different crystal forms of calcium carbonate . Many limestones are composed from skeletal fragments of marine organisms such as coral or foraminifera....
, lead
Lead
Lead is a main-group element in the carbon group with the symbol Pb and atomic number 82. Lead is a soft, malleable poor metal. It is also counted as one of the heavy metals. Metallic lead has a bluish-white color after being freshly cut, but it soon tarnishes to a dull grayish color when exposed...
, jasper
Jasper
Jasper, a form of chalcedony, is an opaque, impure variety of silica, usually red, yellow, brown or green in color; and rarely blue. This mineral breaks with a smooth surface, and is used for ornamentation or as a gemstone. It can be highly polished and is used for vases, seals, and at one time for...
and manganese
Manganese
Manganese is a chemical element, designated by the symbol Mn. It has the atomic number 25. It is found as a free element in nature , and in many minerals...
were exported. After the Second World War the mining industry collapsed, and Aberdaron gradually developed into a popular holiday resort. The beach was awarded a Seaside Award in 2008.
The coastal waters are part of Pen Llŷn a'r Sarnau Special Area of Conservation , one of the largest marine designated sites in the United Kingdom. The coast itself forms part of the Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island Special Protection Area , and was designated a Heritage Coast in 1974. In 1956 the area was included in Llŷn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty . Conservation Areas have been created in Aberdaron, Bardsey Island and Y Rhiw; and the area has been designated a Landscape of Historic Interest.
Etymology
Aberdaron means "Mouth of the Oak River", a reference to the Afon Daron (River Daron) which flows into Bae Aberdaron (Aberdaron Bay) in the village.History
Evidence from one of the most important archaeological sites in Wales, the Iron AgeIron Age
The Iron Age is the archaeological period generally occurring after the Bronze Age, marked by the prevalent use of iron. The early period of the age is characterized by the widespread use of iron or steel. The adoption of such material coincided with other changes in society, including differing...
hillfort
Hillforts in Britain
Hillforts in Britain refers to the various hillforts within the island of Great Britain. Although the earliest such constructs fitting this description come from the Neolithic period, with a few also dating to the later Bronze Age, British hill forts were primarily constructed during the Iron Age...
at Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum, suggests that the area around Aberdaron was colonised early, as a wave of Celtic settlers explored the Irish Sea
Irish Sea
The Irish Sea separates the islands of Ireland and Great Britain. It is connected to the Celtic Sea in the south by St George's Channel, and to the Atlantic Ocean in the north by the North Channel. Anglesey is the largest island within the Irish Sea, followed by the Isle of Man...
, probably around the 4th century BC. The construction was wholly defensive, but in later phases defence appears to have been less important, and in the last phase the fort's ramparts were deliberately flattened, suggesting there was no longer a need for defence. It appears that Aberdaron became a peaceful farming community. Ptolemy
Ptolemy
Claudius Ptolemy , was a Roman citizen of Egypt who wrote in Greek. He was a mathematician, astronomer, geographer, astrologer, and poet of a single epigram in the Greek Anthology. He lived in Egypt under Roman rule, and is believed to have been born in the town of Ptolemais Hermiou in the...
calls the Llŷn Peninsula
Llŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
"Ganganorum Promontorium" (Peninsula of the Gangani); the Gangani
Gangani
The Gangani were a people of ancient Ireland who are referred to in Ptolemy's 2nd century Geography as living in the south-west of the island, probably near the mouth of the River Shannon, between the Auteini to the north and the Uellabori to the south...
were a tribe of Irish Celts, and it is thought there may have been strong ties with Leinster
Leinster
Leinster is one of the Provinces of Ireland situated in the east of Ireland. It comprises the ancient Kingdoms of Mide, Osraige and Leinster. Following the Norman invasion of Ireland, the historic fifths of Leinster and Mide gradually merged, mainly due to the impact of the Pale, which straddled...
.
Right of asylum
Right of asylum is an ancient juridical notion, under which a person persecuted for political opinions or religious beliefs in his or her own country may be protected by another sovereign authority, a foreign country, or church sanctuaries...
. In 1094 Gruffydd ap Cynan
Gruffydd ap Cynan
Gruffydd ap Cynan was a King of Gwynedd. In the course of a long and eventful life, he became a key figure in Welsh resistance to Norman rule, and was remembered as King of all Wales...
, the exiled King of Gwynedd
Kingdom of Gwynedd
Gwynedd was one petty kingdom of several Welsh successor states which emerged in 5th-century post-Roman Britain in the Early Middle Ages, and later evolved into a principality during the High Middle Ages. It was based on the former Brythonic tribal lands of the Ordovices, Gangani, and the...
, sought refuge in the church while attempting to recapture his throne; he escaped in the monastic community's boat to Ireland. He regained his territories in 1101, and in 1115 Gruffydd ap Rhys
Gruffydd ap Rhys
Gruffydd ap Rhys was Prince of Deheubarth, in Wales. His sister was the Princess Nest ferch Rhys.-Early life:Following the death of Gruffydd's father Rhys ap Tewdwr in 1093, Deheubarth was taken over by the Normans, and Gruffydd spent much of his early years in exile in Ireland.In 1113 Gruffydd...
, the exiled prince of Deheubarth, took refuge at Aberdaron to escape capture by Gwynedd's ruler. Henry I of England
Henry I of England
Henry I was the fourth son of William I of England. He succeeded his elder brother William II as King of England in 1100 and defeated his eldest brother, Robert Curthose, to become Duke of Normandy in 1106...
had invaded Gwynedd the previous year, and faced by an overwhelming force, Gruffydd ap Cynan had been forced to pay homage and a substantial fine to Henry. The King of Gwynedd, seeking to give up the exiled prince to Henry, ordered that the fugitive prince be dragged from the church by force, but his soldiers were beaten back by the local clergy; Gruffydd ap Rhys escaped under cover of night and fled south to join up with his supporters in Ystrad Tywi
Ystrad Tywi
Ystrad Tywi is an area of south-west Wales situated on the banks of the Tywi river as it approaches the sea to join the Bristol Channel at Carmarthen...
.
Following the conquest of Gwynedd, in 1284, Edward I
Edward I of England
Edward I , also known as Edward Longshanks and the Hammer of the Scots, was King of England from 1272 to 1307. The first son of Henry III, Edward was involved early in the political intrigues of his father's reign, which included an outright rebellion by the English barons...
set about touring his new territories. He visited the castles at Conwy
Conwy
Conwy is a walled market town and community in Conwy County Borough on the north coast of Wales. The town, which faces Deganwy across the River Conwy, formerly lay in Gwynedd and prior to that in Caernarfonshire. Conwy has a population of 14,208...
and Caernarfon
Caernarfon
Caernarfon is a Royal town, community and port in Gwynedd, Wales, with a population of 9,611. It lies along the A487 road, on the east banks of the Menai Straits, opposite the Isle of Anglesey. The city of Bangor is to the northeast, while Snowdonia fringes Caernarfon to the east and southeast...
. Court was held at Nefyn
Nefyn
Nefyn is a small town and community on the north west coast of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, Wales, with a population of 2,619. Welsh is the first language of almost 80% of its inhabitants. The A497 road terminates in the town centre.-History:...
, at which his new subjects were expected to demonstrate their loyalty; and he visited Aberdaron on his way to Bardsey Abbey.
After the English Civil War
English Civil War
The English Civil War was a series of armed conflicts and political machinations between Parliamentarians and Royalists...
, when the Parliamentarians
Roundhead
"Roundhead" was the nickname given to the supporters of the Parliament during the English Civil War. Also known as Parliamentarians, they fought against King Charles I and his supporters, the Cavaliers , who claimed absolute power and the divine right of kings...
under Oliver Cromwell
Oliver Cromwell
Oliver Cromwell was an English military and political leader who overthrew the English monarchy and temporarily turned England into a republican Commonwealth, and served as Lord Protector of England, Scotland, and Ireland....
introduced a strongly Protestant regime, Catholicism
Catholicism
Catholicism is a broad term for the body of the Catholic faith, its theologies and doctrines, its liturgical, ethical, spiritual, and behavioral characteristics, as well as a religious people as a whole....
remained the dominant religion in the area. Catholics, who had largely supported the Royalist
Cavalier
Cavalier was the name used by Parliamentarians for a Royalist supporter of King Charles I and son Charles II during the English Civil War, the Interregnum, and the Restoration...
side, were often considered to be traitors and efforts were made to eradicate the religion. The persecution even extended to Aberdaron, and in 1657, Gwen Griffiths of Y Rhiw was summoned to the Quarter Sessions
Quarter Sessions
The Courts of Quarter Sessions or Quarter Sessions were local courts traditionally held at four set times each year in the United Kingdom and other countries in the former British Empire...
as a "papist".
Agricultural improvement
British Agricultural Revolution
British Agricultural Revolution describes a period of development in Britain between the 17th century and the end of the 19th century, which saw an epoch-making increase in agricultural productivity and net output. This in turn supported unprecedented population growth, freeing up a significant...
and the Industrial Revolution
Industrial Revolution
The Industrial Revolution was a period from the 18th to the 19th century where major changes in agriculture, manufacturing, mining, transportation, and technology had a profound effect on the social, economic and cultural conditions of the times...
came to Aberdaron in the 19th century. The Inclosure (Consolidation) Act 1801 was intended to make it easier for landlords to enclose and improve common land, introduce increased efficiency, bring more land under the plough, and reduce the high prices of agricultural production. Rhoshirwaun Common, following strong opposition, was enclosed in 1814; while the process was not completed in Aberdaron, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw until 1861. On the industrial front, mining developed as a major source of employment, especially at Y Rhiw, where manganese
Manganese
Manganese is a chemical element, designated by the symbol Mn. It has the atomic number 25. It is found as a free element in nature , and in many minerals...
was discovered in 1827.
During the Second World War, Y Rhiw played a vital role in preparations for the Normandy Landings. A team of electronic engineers set up an experimental ultra high frequency
Ultra high frequency
Ultra-High Frequency designates the ITU Radio frequency range of electromagnetic waves between 300 MHz and 3 GHz , also known as the decimetre band or decimetre wave as the wavelengths range from one to ten decimetres...
radio station, from where they were able to make a direct link to stations in Fishguard
Fishguard
Fishguard is a coastal town in Pembrokeshire, south-west Wales, with a population of 3,300 . The community of Fishguard and Goodwick had a population of 5043 at the 2001 census....
and Llandudno
Llandudno
Llandudno is a seaside resort and town in Conwy County Borough, Wales. In the 2001 UK census it had a population of 20,090 including that of Penrhyn Bay and Penrhynside, which are within the Llandudno Community...
. The system employed a frequency that the German forces were unable to either monitor or jam, and was used in the 1944 landings.
Governance
Bodferin
Bodferin is a former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. It was abolished in 1934, and incorporated into Aberdaron....
, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw were civil parishes in Cwmwd Cymydmaen
Commote
A commote , sometimes spelt in older documents as cymwd, was a secular division of land in Medieval Wales. The word derives from the prefix cym- and the noun bod...
within Cantref Llŷn
Cantref Llyn
The ancient Welsh cantref of Llŷn in north-west Wales was part of the kingdom of Gwynedd for much of its history until it was included in the new county of Caernarfonshire, together with Arfon and Arllechwedd under the terms of the Statute of Rhuddlan in 1284....
, in Caernarfonshire
Caernarfonshire
Caernarfonshire , historically spelled as Caernarvonshire or Carnarvonshire in English during its existence, was one of the thirteen historic counties, a vice-county and a former administrative county of Wales....
. Following the Poor Law Amendment Act 1834
Poor Law Amendment Act 1834
The Poor Law Amendment Act 1834, sometimes abbreviated to PLAA, was an Act of the Parliament of the United Kingdom passed by the Whig government of Lord Melbourne that reformed the country's poverty relief system . It was an Amendment Act that completely replaced earlier legislation based on the...
, parishes were grouped into "unions": Pwllheli Poor Law Union was created in 1837. Under the Public Health Act 1848 the area of the poor law union became Pwllheli Rural Sanitary District, which from 1889 formed a second tier of local government under Caernarfonshire County Council. Y Rhiw was absorbed into the smaller Llanfaelrhys in 1886; and under the Local Government Act 1894
Local Government Act 1894
The Local Government Act 1894 was an Act of the Parliament of the United Kingdom that reformed local government in England and Wales outside the County of London. The Act followed the reforms carried out at county level under the Local Government Act 1888...
the four remaining parishes became part of Llŷn Rural District . Bodferin, Llanfaelrhys, and parts of Bryncroes
Bryncroes
Bryncroes is a hamlet and former civil parish in Gwynedd in Wales, and lies on the Llŷn Peninsula approximately 2 km west of Sarn Mellteyrn. The parish was abolished in 1934 and divided between Botwnnog and Aberdaron. The village was the scene of fierce protests between 1969 and 1972 when it...
and Llangwnnadl
Llangwnnadl
Llangwnnadl is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The parish was abolished in 1934, and incorporated into Tudweiliog....
, were amalgamated into Aberdaron in 1934. Llŷn Rural District was abolished in 1974, and Bardsey Island was absorbed into Aberdaron to form a community
Community (Wales)
A community is a division of land in Wales that forms the lowest-tier of local government in Wales. Welsh communities are analogous to civil parishes in England....
within Dwyfor District
Dwyfor
Dwyfor was one of the five local government districts of Gwynedd, Wales from 1974 to 1996, covering the Llŷn peninsula. Its council was based in Pwllheli....
in the new county
Preserved counties of Wales
The preserved counties of Wales are the current areas used in Wales for the ceremonial purposes of Lieutenancy and Shrievalty. They are based on the counties created by the Local Government Act 1972 and used for local government and other purposes between 1974 and 1996.-Usage:The Local Government ...
of Gwynedd
Gwynedd
Gwynedd is a county in north-west Wales, named after the old Kingdom of Gwynedd. Although the second biggest in terms of geographical area, it is also one of the most sparsely populated...
; Dwyfor was abolished when Gwynedd became a unitary authority
Unitary authority
A unitary authority is a type of local authority that has a single tier and is responsible for all local government functions within its area or performs additional functions which elsewhere in the relevant country are usually performed by national government or a higher level of sub-national...
in 1996.
The community now forms an electoral division
Wards of the United Kingdom
A ward in the United Kingdom is an electoral district at sub-national level represented by one or more councillors. It is the primary unit of British administrative and electoral geography .-England:...
of Cyngor Gwynedd
Gwynedd Council
Gwynedd Council is the governing body for the principal area of Gwynedd, one of the subdivisions of Wales within the United Kingdom.- Creation of the Authority :...
(Gwynedd Council), electing one councillor; William Gareth Roberts of Plaid Cymru
Plaid Cymru
' is a political party in Wales. It advocates the establishment of an independent Welsh state within the European Union. was formed in 1925 and won its first seat in 1966...
was re-elected in 2008. Aberdaron Community Council has 12 elected members, who represent three wards: Aberdaron De (Aberdaron South), Aberdaron Dwyrain (Aberdaron East) and Aberdaron Gogledd (Aberdaron North). Ten Independent
Independent (politician)
In politics, an independent or non-party politician is an individual not affiliated to any political party. Independents may hold a centrist viewpoint between those of major political parties, a viewpoint more extreme than any major party, or they may have a viewpoint based on issues that they do...
councillors and one from Plaid Cymru were elected unopposed in the 2008 election.
From 1950, Aberdaron was part of Caernarfon
Caernarfon (UK Parliament constituency)
Caernarfon was a parliamentary constituency centred on the town of Caernarfon in Wales. It elected one Member of Parliament by the first past the post system....
parliamentary constituency. In 2010, the community was transferred to Dwyfor Meirionnydd
Dwyfor Meirionnydd (UK Parliament constituency)
Dwyfor Meirionnydd is a constituency of the House of Commons of the Parliament of the United Kingdom . The seat was created by the Welsh Boundary Commission for the 2010 general election, and replaced the old north Wales seat of Meirionnydd Nant Conwy...
constituency, represented by Elfyn Llwyd
Elfyn Llwyd
Elfyn Llwyd, PC is a Welsh barrister and politician. He has been a Member of Parliament since 1992, representing Meirionnydd Nant Conwy in the House of Commons from 1992 to 2010 and Dwyfor Meirionnydd since 2010...
of Plaid Cymru. In the National Assembly for Wales
National Assembly for Wales
The National Assembly for Wales is a devolved assembly with power to make legislation in Wales. The Assembly comprises 60 members, who are known as Assembly Members, or AMs...
it has, since 2007, formed part of Dwyfor Meirionnydd
Dwyfor Meirionnydd (Assembly constituency)
Dwyfor Meirionnydd is a constituency of the National Assembly for Wales, created for the 2007 Assembly election. It elects one Assembly Member by the first past the post method of election...
assembly constituency, represented by Dafydd Elis-Thomas
Dafydd Elis-Thomas
Dafydd Elis Elis-Thomas, Baron Elis-Thomas, PC, AM, is a Welsh politician and was the Presiding Officer of the National Assembly for Wales until 2011...
, also of Plaid Cymru, who until 2011 was the Presiding Officer
Presiding Officer of the National Assembly for Wales
The Presiding Officer of the National Assembly for Wales is the Speaker of the National Assembly for Wales, elected by the Members of the National Assembly for Wales to chair their meetings ; to maintain order; and to protect the rights of Members.He or she also heads the Corporate Body of the...
of the assembly. The constituency forms part of the electoral region of Mid and West Wales.
Geography
Llŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
is a marine eroded platform, an extension of the Snowdonia
Snowdonia
Snowdonia is a region in north Wales and a national park of in area. It was the first to be designated of the three National Parks in Wales, in 1951.-Name and extent:...
massif, with a complex geology including Precambrian
Precambrian
The Precambrian is the name which describes the large span of time in Earth's history before the current Phanerozoic Eon, and is a Supereon divided into several eons of the geologic time scale...
rocks. The coastline is rocky, with crags, scree
Scree
Scree, also called talus, is a term given to an accumulation of broken rock fragments at the base of crags, mountain cliffs, or valley shoulders. Landforms associated with these materials are sometimes called scree slopes or talus piles...
s and low cliffs; heather covered hills are separated by valleys occupied by pastures.
To the east, Mynydd Rhiw, Mynydd y Graig and Mynydd Penarfynydd form a 3 miles (4.8 km) long series of hog-back ridges of igneous rock that reaches the sea at Trwyn Talfarach. Above 800 feet (243.8 m) the ridges are topped by hard gabbro
Gabbro
Gabbro refers to a large group of dark, coarse-grained, intrusive mafic igneous rocks chemically equivalent to basalt. The rocks are plutonic, formed when molten magma is trapped beneath the Earth's surface and cools into a crystalline mass....
. At its northern end Mynydd Rhiw rises to 1000 feet (304.8 m), the outcrop of Clip y Gylfinhir (Curlew's Crag) looming above the village of Y Rhiw. Mynydd Penarfynydd is one of the best exposures of intrusive, layered, igneous rock in the British Isles.
Boulder clay
Boulder clay, in geology, is a deposit of clay, often full of boulders, which is formed in and beneath glaciers and ice-sheets wherever they are found, but is in a special sense the typical deposit of the Glacial Period in northern Europe and North America...
to form sand, resulting in the spacious beach of Porth Neigwl (Hell's Mouth).
West of Aberdaron, four peaks rise above the rocky shoreline at Uwchmynydd. Mynydd Anelog stands 620 feet (189 m) high, Mynydd Mawr at 490 feet (149.4 m), Mynydd y Gwyddel rises to 295 feet (89.9 m) and Mynydd Bychestyn is 330 feet (100.6 m) above sea level.
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
lies 1.9 miles (3 km) off Pen y Cil. The island is 0.6 mile (0.965604 km) wide and 1 miles (1.6 km) long. The north east rises steeply from the sea to a height of 548 feet (167 m). The western plain, in contrast, comprises low, and relatively flat, cultivated farmland; in the south the island narrows to an isthmus
Isthmus
An isthmus is a narrow strip of land connecting two larger land areas usually with waterforms on either side.Canals are often built through isthmuses where they may be particularly advantageous to create a shortcut for marine transportation...
, connecting to a peninsula.
The coast around Aberdaron has been the scene of many shipwrecks. In 1822, the Bardsey Island lighthouse tender was wrecked, with the loss of six lives; and in 1752, the schooner John the Baptist, carrying a cargo of oats from Wexford
Wexford
Wexford is the county town of County Wexford, Ireland. It is situated near the southeastern corner of Ireland, close to Rosslare Europort. The town is connected to Dublin via the M11/N11 National Primary Route, and the national rail network...
to Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool is a city and metropolitan borough of Merseyside, England, along the eastern side of the Mersey Estuary. It was founded as a borough in 1207 and was granted city status in 1880...
, was wrecked on the beach at Aberdaron. The sailing ship Newry, with 400 passengers bound from Warrenpoint
Warrenpoint
Warrenpoint is a small town in County Down, Northern Ireland. It lies on the northern shore of Carlingford Lough and is separated from the Republic of Ireland by a narrow strait. The town sprang up within the townland of Ringmackilroy...
to Québec
Quebec City
Quebec , also Québec, Quebec City or Québec City is the capital of the Canadian province of Quebec and is located within the Capitale-Nationale region. It is the second most populous city in Quebec after Montreal, which is about to the southwest...
, was wrecked at Porth Orion in 1880. The crew abandoned the passengers, leaving just the captain, ship's mate and one sailor, assisted by three local men, to lead 375 men, women and children to safety. A great storm swept the country on 26 October 1859 and many ships were lost: nine were wrecked at Porthor, seven of them with complete loss of life. On the south coast, vessels were often driven ashore at Porth Neigwl by a combination of south westerly gales and treacherous offshore currents. The Transit was lost in 1839, the Arfestone the following year, and the Henry Catherine in 1866. The bay earned its English title, "Hell's Mouth", from its reputation for wrecks during the days of the sailing ship.
Aberdaron is noted for low levels of air pollution. The Gwynedd State of the Environment Report in 2004 found levels of sulfur dioxide
Sulfur dioxide
Sulfur dioxide is the chemical compound with the formula . It is released by volcanoes and in various industrial processes. Since coal and petroleum often contain sulfur compounds, their combustion generates sulfur dioxide unless the sulfur compounds are removed before burning the fuel...
, nitrogen dioxide
Nitrogen dioxide
Nitrogen dioxide is the chemical compound with the formula it is one of several nitrogen oxides. is an intermediate in the industrial synthesis of nitric acid, millions of tons of which are produced each year. This reddish-brown toxic gas has a characteristic sharp, biting odor and is a prominent...
and carbon monoxide
Carbon monoxide
Carbon monoxide , also called carbonous oxide, is a colorless, odorless, and tasteless gas that is slightly lighter than air. It is highly toxic to humans and animals in higher quantities, although it is also produced in normal animal metabolism in low quantities, and is thought to have some normal...
very low, and particulates
Particulates
Particulates – also known as particulate matter , suspended particulate matter , fine particles, and soot – are tiny subdivisions of solid matter suspended in a gas or liquid. In contrast, aerosol refers to particles and/or liquid droplets and the gas together. Sources of particulate matter can be...
to be low. It is one of the few sites in the United Kingdom for golden hair lichen
Teloschistes
Teloschistes is a genus of lichenized fungi in the family Teloschistaceae.-External links:*...
, a striking bright orange lichen that is very sensitive to air pollution. The climate is relatively mild and, because of the Gulf Stream
Gulf Stream
The Gulf Stream, together with its northern extension towards Europe, the North Atlantic Drift, is a powerful, warm, and swift Atlantic ocean current that originates at the tip of Florida, and follows the eastern coastlines of the United States and Newfoundland before crossing the Atlantic Ocean...
, frosts are rare in winter.
Economy
Sheep have been raised in the Llŷn PeninsulaLlŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
for over a thousand years, and Aberdaron has exported wool for many years. The main product locally was felt
Felt
Felt is a non-woven cloth that is produced by matting, condensing and pressing woollen fibres. While some types of felt are very soft, some are tough enough to form construction materials. Felt can be of any colour, and made into any shape or size....
, produced by soaking the cloth in water and beating it with large wooden paddles until the wool formed a thick mat which could be flattened, dried and cut into lengths. There were two fulling mills
Fulling
Fulling or tucking or walking is a step in woolen clothmaking which involves the cleansing of cloth to eliminate oils, dirt, and other impurities, and making it thicker. The worker who does the job is a fuller, tucker, or walker...
on the Afon Daron, in addition to three corn mills
Gristmill
The terms gristmill or grist mill can refer either to a building in which grain is ground into flour, or to the grinding mechanism itself.- Early history :...
, and lichen
Lichen
Lichens are composite organisms consisting of a symbiotic organism composed of a fungus with a photosynthetic partner , usually either a green alga or cyanobacterium...
was gathered around Y Rhiw, from which a grey dye was extracted. Arable crops consisted mainly of wheat
Wheat
Wheat is a cereal grain, originally from the Levant region of the Near East, but now cultivated worldwide. In 2007 world production of wheat was 607 million tons, making it the third most-produced cereal after maize and rice...
, barley
Barley
Barley is a major cereal grain, a member of the grass family. It serves as a major animal fodder, as a base malt for beer and certain distilled beverages, and as a component of various health foods...
, oats
OATS
OATS - Open Source Assistive Technology Software - is a source code repository or "forge" for assistive technology software. It was launched in 2006 with the goal to provide a one-stop “shop” for end users, clinicians and open-source developers to promote and develop open source assistive...
and potatoes. The field boundaries date back several centuries and are marked by walls, cloddiau and hedgerows; important habitats for a variety of wildlife.
France
The French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France...
unloaded illicit tea and brandy at Aberdaron in 1767, and attempted to sell its cargo to the locals; a Revenue cutter discovered salt being smuggled at Porth Cadlan in 1809; and a schooner on route from Guernsey
Guernsey
Guernsey, officially the Bailiwick of Guernsey is a British Crown dependency in the English Channel off the coast of Normandy.The Bailiwick, as a governing entity, embraces not only all 10 parishes on the Island of Guernsey, but also the islands of Herm, Jethou, Burhou, and Lihou and their islet...
to Scotland
Scotland
Scotland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Occupying the northern third of the island of Great Britain, it shares a border with England to the south and is bounded by the North Sea to the east, the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, and the North Channel and Irish Sea to the...
was reported to have offloaded lace, tea, brandy and gin at Y Rhiw in 1824.
During the 19th century good quality limestone
Limestone
Limestone is a sedimentary rock composed largely of the minerals calcite and aragonite, which are different crystal forms of calcium carbonate . Many limestones are composed from skeletal fragments of marine organisms such as coral or foraminifera....
and a small amount of lead
Lead
Lead is a main-group element in the carbon group with the symbol Pb and atomic number 82. Lead is a soft, malleable poor metal. It is also counted as one of the heavy metals. Metallic lead has a bluish-white color after being freshly cut, but it soon tarnishes to a dull grayish color when exposed...
ore were quarried in the village. Jasper
Jasper
Jasper, a form of chalcedony, is an opaque, impure variety of silica, usually red, yellow, brown or green in color; and rarely blue. This mineral breaks with a smooth surface, and is used for ornamentation or as a gemstone. It can be highly polished and is used for vases, seals, and at one time for...
was mined at Carreg; granite was quarried at Porth y Pistyll; and there was a brickworks at Porth Neigwl. The main source of income, however, was herring fishing
Atlantic herring
Atlantic herring is a fish in the family Clupeidae. It is one of the most abundant fish species on earth. Herring can be found on both sides of the Atlantic Ocean, congregating in large schools. They can grow up to in length and weigh more than...
. A regular shipping service was operated to Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool is a city and metropolitan borough of Merseyside, England, along the eastern side of the Mersey Estuary. It was founded as a borough in 1207 and was granted city status in 1880...
, exporting pigs, poultry and eggs; the vessels returned laden with coal for the neighbourhood. Limestone was also imported and offloaded into the water at high tide, then collected from the beach when the tide went out. Lime was needed to reduce the acidity of the local soil, and lime kilns were built on the beaches at Porthor, Porth Orion, Porth Meudwy, Aberdaron and Y Rhiw to convert the limestone to quicklime. There was shipbuilding at Porth Neigwl, where the last ship, a sloop
Sloop
A sloop is a sail boat with a fore-and-aft rig and a single mast farther forward than the mast of a cutter....
named the Ebenezer, was built in 1841; and at Porthor, which came to an end with the building of a schooner
Schooner
A schooner is a type of sailing vessel characterized by the use of fore-and-aft sails on two or more masts with the forward mast being no taller than the rear masts....
, the Sarah, in 1842. Aberdaron's last ship, the sloop Victory, had been built in 1792, and the last ship to come out of Porth Ysgo had been another sloop, the Grace, in 1778.
Manganese
Manganese is a chemical element, designated by the symbol Mn. It has the atomic number 25. It is found as a free element in nature , and in many minerals...
as a strengthening agent for steel. Ore had been discovered at Y Rhiw in 1827, and the industry became a substantial employer in the village; over 113000 long tons (114,813.7 t) of ore were extracted between 1840 and 1945, and in 1906 the industry employed 200 people.
Tourism began to develop after 1918. The first tourist guide to the village was published in 1910 and extolled the virtues of "the salubrious sea and mountain breezes"; in addition to the two hotels in the village, local farmhouses took in visitors, which provided an extra source of income.
At the 2001 census, 59.4 per cent of the population were in employment, and 23.5 per cent were self employed; the unemployment rate was 2.3 per cent; and 16.0 per cent were retired. Of those employed, 17.7 per cent worked in agriculture; 15.8 per cent in the wholesale and retail trades; 10.7 per cent in construction; and 10.5 per cent in education. Those working from home amounted to 32.3 per cent; 15.2 per cent travelled less than 6.2 miles (10 km) to their place of work; and 23.6 per cent travelled more than 25 miles (40 km). The community is included in Pwllheli and Llŷn Regeneration Area and was identified in the Welsh Index of Multiple Deprivation 2005 as the electoral division in Gwynedd
Gwynedd
Gwynedd is a county in north-west Wales, named after the old Kingdom of Gwynedd. Although the second biggest in terms of geographical area, it is also one of the most sparsely populated...
with least access to services; and was ranked 13th in Wales. An agricultural census in 2000 recorded 33,562 sheep, 4,380 calves, 881 beef cattle, 607 dairy cattle, and 18 pigs; there were 310 acres (125.5 ha) of growing crops.
Demography
Aberdaron had a population of 1,019 in 2001, of which 20.6 per cent were below the age of 16, and 18.7 per cent were over 64 years of age. Owner occupiers inhabited 53.7 per cent of the dwellings; and 21.7 per cent were rented; 19.6 per cent were holiday homes. Central heating was installed in 62.8 per cent of dwellings; but 2.4 per cent were without sole use of a bath, shower or toilet. The proportion of households without use of a vehicle was 14.3 per cent; but 40.9 per cent had two or more. The population was predominantly white British; 97.8 per cent identified themselves as such; 71.9 per cent were born in Wales; and 26.9 per cent in England.| Population change in Aberdaron | ||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Year | 1801 | 1811 | 1821 | 1831 | 1841 | 1851 | 1861 | 1871 | 1881 | 1891 |
| Aberdaron | 1,141 | 1,442 | 1,234 | 1,389 | 1,350 | 1,239 | 1,266 | 1,247 | 1,202 | 1,170 |
| Bardsey Island | 71 | 86 | 84 | 90 | 92 | 81 | 84 | 132 | 77 | |
| Bodferin | 58 | 87 | 61 | 56 | 64 | 57 | 50 | 62 | 42 | 45 |
| Llanfaelrhys | 224 | 246 | 262 | 258 | 236 | 255 | 208 | 198 | 186 | 490 |
| Y Rhiw | 282 | 318 | 380 | 358 | 378 | 376 | 370 | 340 | 350 | |
| Total | 1,705 | 2,164 | 2,023 | 2,145 | 2,118 | 2,019 | 1,975 | 1,931 | 1,912 | 1,782 |
| Year | 1901 | 1911 | 1921 | 1931 | 1951 | 1961 | 2001 | |||
| Aberdaron | 1,119 | 1,106 | 1,075 | 983 | 1,275 | 1,161 | 1,019 | |||
| Bardsey Island | 124 | 53 | 58 | 54 | 14 | 17 | ||||
| Bodferin | 49 | 43 | 43 | 36 | ||||||
| Llanfaelrhys | 499 | 495 | 449 | 385 | ||||||
| Y Rhiw | ||||||||||
| Total | 1,791 | 1,697 | 1,625 | 1,458 | 1,289 | 1,178 | 1,019 | |||
Aberdaron
Clough Williams-Ellis
Sir Bertram Clough Williams-Ellis, CBE, MC was an English-born Welsh architect known chiefly as creator of the Italianate village of Portmeirion in North Wales.-Origins, education and early career:...
.
Y Gegin Fawr (The Big Kitchen) was built in the 13th century as a communal kitchen where pilgrims could claim a meal on their way to Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
. Aberdaron was the last place on the route for rest and refreshment and pilgrims often had to wait weeks in the village for a chance to cross the treacherous waters of Bardsey Sound .
Next to the car park is a field, Cae y Grogbren (Gallows Field), near which is a large red rock. In the Middle Ages, the abbot from the monastery on Bardsey Island visited the rock to dispense justice to local criminals; if they were found guilty, the wrongdoer would be hanged and thrown into Pwll Ddiwaelod (The Bottomless Pool). The pool is a kettle lake, formed at the end of the Ice Age
Ice age
An ice age or, more precisely, glacial age, is a generic geological period of long-term reduction in the temperature of the Earth's surface and atmosphere, resulting in the presence or expansion of continental ice sheets, polar ice sheets and alpine glaciers...
, when blocks of ice were trapped underground and melted to form round, deep pools.
Above the village, on the Afon Daron, stands Bodwrdda, an early 16th-century stone-built house, which had a fulling
Fulling
Fulling or tucking or walking is a step in woolen clothmaking which involves the cleansing of cloth to eliminate oils, dirt, and other impurities, and making it thicker. The worker who does the job is a fuller, tucker, or walker...
mill adjacent; two large brick-built wings were added later, giving an imposing three-storey facade containing with 17th century windows. To the south, Penrhyn Mawr is a substantial late 18th century gable-fronted farmhouse.
Bardsey Island
Bardsey IslandBardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
, 1.9 miles (3.1 km) off the mainland, was inhabited in Neolithic
Neolithic
The Neolithic Age, Era, or Period, or New Stone Age, was a period in the development of human technology, beginning about 9500 BC in some parts of the Middle East, and later in other parts of the world. It is traditionally considered as the last part of the Stone Age...
times, and traces of hut circles remain. During the 5th century the island became a refuge for persecuted Christians, and a small Celtic
Celtic Christianity
Celtic Christianity or Insular Christianity refers broadly to certain features of Christianity that were common, or held to be common, across the Celtic-speaking world during the Early Middle Ages...
monastery existed. Saint Cadfan
Saint Cadfan
Saint Cadfan, ; , Abbot of Tywyn and Bardsey was a Breton Saint who lived in 6th century Wales. A Breton nobleman, he was the son of Eneas Ledewig , and Gwen Teirbron, a daughter of Budic II, a King of Brittany.- Associations & Legacy :...
arrived from Brittany
Brittany
Brittany is a cultural and administrative region in the north-west of France. Previously a kingdom and then a duchy, Brittany was united to the Kingdom of France in 1532 as a province. Brittany has also been referred to as Less, Lesser or Little Britain...
in 516 and, under his guidance St Mary's Abbey was built. For centuries the island was important as "the holy place of burial for all the bravest and best in the land". Bards called it "the land of indulgences, absolution and pardon, the road to Heaven, and the gate to Paradise"; and in medieval times three pilgrimages to Bardsey Island were considered to be of equivalent benefit to the soul as one to Rome. In 1188 the abbey was still a Celtic institution, but by 1212 it belonged to the Augustinians. Many people still walk to Aberdaron and Uwchmynydd each year in the footsteps of the saints, although today only ruins of the old abbey's 13th-century bell tower remain. A Celtic cross
Celtic cross
A Celtic cross is a symbol that combines a cross with a ring surrounding the intersection. In the Celtic Christian world it was combined with the Christian cross and this design was often used for high crosses – a free-standing cross made of stone and often richly decorated...
amidst the ruins commemorates the 20,000 saints reputed to be buried on the island.
The island was declared a National Nature Reserve
National Nature Reserve
For details of National nature reserves in the United Kingdom see:*National Nature Reserves in England*National Nature Reserves in Northern Ireland*National Nature Reserves in Scotland*National Nature Reserves in Wales...
in 1986, and is part of Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island Special Protection Area . It is now a favourite bird-watching location, on the migration routes of thousands of birds. Bardsey Bird and Field Observatory , founded in 1953, nets and rings 8,000 birds each year to understand their migration patterns.
Church in Wales
The Church in Wales is the Anglican church in Wales, composed of six dioceses.As with the primus of the Scottish Episcopal Church, the Archbishop of Wales serves concurrently as one of the six diocesan bishops. The current archbishop is Barry Morgan, the Bishop of Llandaff.In contrast to the...
and many Welsh academics and public figures. The trust is financed through membership subscriptions, grants and donations, and is dedicated to protecting the wildlife, buildings and archaeological sites of the island; promoting its artistic and cultural life; and encouraging people to visit as a place of natural beauty and pilgrimage. When, in 2000, the trust advertised for a tenant for the 440 acres (178.1 ha) sheep farm on the island, they had 1,100 applications. The tenancy is now held by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds
Royal Society for the Protection of Birds
Bird Notes and News was first published in April 1903.The title changed to 'Bird Notes' in 1947. In the 1950s, there were four copies per year . Each volume covered two years, spread over three calendar years...
; and the land is managed to maintain the natural habitat. Oats
OATS
OATS - Open Source Assistive Technology Software - is a source code repository or "forge" for assistive technology software. It was launched in 2006 with the goal to provide a one-stop “shop” for end users, clinicians and open-source developers to promote and develop open source assistive...
, turnips and swedes
Rutabaga
The rutabaga, swede , turnip or yellow turnip is a root vegetable that originated as a cross between the cabbage and the turnip; see Triangle of U...
are grown; goats, ducks, geese and chickens kept; and there is a mixed flock of sheep
Domestic sheep
Sheep are quadrupedal, ruminant mammals typically kept as livestock. Like all ruminants, sheep are members of the order Artiodactyla, the even-toed ungulates. Although the name "sheep" applies to many species in the genus Ovis, in everyday usage it almost always refers to Ovis aries...
and Welsh black cattle
Welsh Black
The Welsh Black is a dual-purpose breed of cattle native to Wales.-History:Commercial exploitation of the breed meant that drovers would herd them to English markets. Herds from south west Wales travelled towards Hereford and Gloucester up the Tywi Valley to Llandovery. Herds from South...
.
Llanfaelrhys
Porth Ysgo, owned by the National TrustNational Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty
The National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty, usually known as the National Trust, is a conservation organisation in England, Wales and Northern Ireland...
, is reached by a steep slope from Llanfaelrhys
Llanfaelrhys
Llanfaelrhys is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd, located on the Llŷn Peninsula. The parish was abolished in 1934 and incorporated into Aberdaron.-External links:...
, 3.3 miles (5.3 km) east of Aberdaron, past a disused manganese mine in Nant y Gadwen; the mine closed in 1927, and produced 45644 long tons (46,376.6 t) in its lifetime. Where the path from Ysgo reaches the beach, a waterfall, Pistyll y Gaseg, tumbles over the cliff. At the eastern end of the bay is Porth Alwm, where the stream from Nant y Gadwen flows into the sea. The south-facing beach is composed of fine, firm sand.
To the west, King Arthur
King Arthur
King Arthur is a legendary British leader of the late 5th and early 6th centuries, who, according to Medieval histories and romances, led the defence of Britain against Saxon invaders in the early 6th century. The details of Arthur's story are mainly composed of folklore and literary invention, and...
's last battle against his arch enemy, Mordred
Mordred
Mordred or Modred is a character in the Arthurian legend, known as a notorious traitor who fought King Arthur at the Battle of Camlann, where he was killed and Arthur fatally wounded. Tradition varies on his relationship to Arthur, but he is best known today as Arthur's illegitimate son by his...
, was supposedly fought in the fields around Porth Cadlan. Offshore lies a rock, Maen Gwenonwy, named after Arthur's sister.
Lladron Maelrhys are two large stones on the border between Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw. It is claimed that, years ago, thieves broke into St Maelrhys Church, intent on stealing money. Caught in the act, they fled for their lives but were caught as they approached Y Rhiw, and killed on the spot; the stones mark their burial place. Another version claims that as they crossed the parish boundary they were turned to stone for their sacrilege.
Porthor
Cove
A cove is a small type of bay or coastal inlet. They usually have narrow, restricted entrances, are often circular or oval, and are often inside a larger bay. Small, narrow, sheltered bays, inlets, creeks, or recesses in a coast are often considered coves...
3.2 miles (5.1 km) north of Aberdaron that has smooth white sand; when dry, the sand whistles, or squeaks, underfoot. The crescent-shaped beach is backed by steep cliffs of relatively hard rock, from which the cove has been sculpted by the rough seas. The bay is the centre of a National Trust
National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty
The National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty, usually known as the National Trust, is a conservation organisation in England, Wales and Northern Ireland...
estate which consists of 420 acres (170 ha) of shoreline, headland and farmland, and includes Mynydd Carreg and Mynydd Anelog.
On the hill summits that dot the headlands are heather
Calluna
Calluna vulgaris is the sole species in the genus Calluna in the family Ericaceae. It is a low-growing perennial shrub growing to tall, or rarely to and taller, and is found widely in Europe and Asia Minor on acidic soils in open sunny situations and in moderate shade...
and gorse, shaped by the prevailing wind; thrift
Armeria maritima
Armeria maritima is the botanical name for a species of flowering plant.It is a popular garden flower, known by several common names, including thrift, sea thrift, and sea pink. The plant has been distributed worldwide as a garden and cut flower...
and wild thyme thrive on the acidic soil. The cliffs are a stronghold of the chough
Red-billed Chough
The Red-billed Chough or Chough , Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax, is a bird in the crow family; it is one of only two species in the genus Pyrrhocorax...
, and a nesting place for razorbills and guillemots
Common Guillemot
The Common Murre or Common Guillemot is a large auk. It is also known as the Thin-billed Murre in North America. It has a circumpolar distribution, occurring in low-Arctic and boreal waters in the North-Atlantic and North Pacific...
. On the lower rocks, in reach of the waves, are plentiful lichens, seaweeds, sponges, limpets and barnacles.
Iron Age
The Iron Age is the archaeological period generally occurring after the Bronze Age, marked by the prevalent use of iron. The early period of the age is characterized by the widespread use of iron or steel. The adoption of such material coincided with other changes in society, including differing...
. Kittiwakes
Black-legged Kittiwake
The Black-legged Kittiwake is a seabird species in the gull family Laridae.This species was first described by Linnaeus in his Systema naturae in 1758 as Larus tridactylus....
, cormorants
Great Cormorant
The Great Cormorant , known as the Great Black Cormorant across the Northern Hemisphere, the Black Cormorant in Australia and the Black Shag further south in New Zealand, is a widespread member of the cormorant family of seabirds...
and shags can be seen on the cliffs, while farm birds such as the yellowhammer
Yellowhammer
The Yellowhammer, Emberiza citrinella, is a passerine bird in the bunting family Emberizidae. It is common in all sorts of open areas with some scrub or trees and form small flocks in winter....
frequent the gorse. On Mynydd Anelog, experimental plots have been marked out to monitor different methods of managing heather to discover the best way the habitat can be conserved for the future.
North of Porthor is Porth Iago, a south-facing narrow inlet and rocky cove, which has a small beach and steep cliffs.
Rhoshirwaun
Rhoshirwaun lies 2.1 miles (3.4 km) to the north east of Aberdaron, and was formerly a marshMarsh
In geography, a marsh, or morass, is a type of wetland that is subject to frequent or continuous flood. Typically the water is shallow and features grasses, rushes, reeds, typhas, sedges, other herbaceous plants, and moss....
y area. It provided fuel from peat cuttings, pasture for animals and accommodated squatters, mainly fishermen, who had encroached on the common with the tacit acceptance of the community. An inclosure act was drawn up in 1802, designed to remove all squatters who had been there less than 20 years. Resistance to the evictions was fierce and was only suppressed by a contingent of dragoons. The act was finally applied in 1814; new roads were built across the moor; boundaries were established; allotments allocated; and wetland reclaimed.
Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum, is one of Europe's earliest Iron Age Settlements, standing 480 feet (146.3 m) above sea level. The hillfort
Hillforts in Britain
Hillforts in Britain refers to the various hillforts within the island of Great Britain. Although the earliest such constructs fitting this description come from the Neolithic period, with a few also dating to the later Bronze Age, British hill forts were primarily constructed during the Iron Age...
, 165 feet (50.3 m) in diameter, has visible traces of eight circular huts; pottery found on the site dates from 425 BC. Legend has it that a giant, Odo Gawr, is buried under a cairn of stones on the summit; nearby is a huge rock known as Carreg Samson, supposedly thrown from Uwchmynydd by Samson
Samson
Samson, Shimshon ; Shamshoun or Sampson is the third to last of the Judges of the ancient Israelites mentioned in the Tanakh ....
. The holes in the rock are said to be the imprint of his fingers; a pot of gold reputedly lies underneath.
To the east of the village, Felin Uchaf is an educational centre exploring ways of living and working in partnership with the environment. Developed on a redundant farm, it provides residential courses in rural skills and sustainable agriculture. A traditional Iron Age
Iron Age
The Iron Age is the archaeological period generally occurring after the Bronze Age, marked by the prevalent use of iron. The early period of the age is characterized by the widespread use of iron or steel. The adoption of such material coincided with other changes in society, including differing...
roundhouse has been built on the site.
Uwchmynydd
Uwchmynydd, 1.8 miles (2.9 km) to the south west of Aberdaron, has a long history of human settlement. MesolithicMesolithic
The Mesolithic is an archaeological concept used to refer to certain groups of archaeological cultures defined as falling between the Paleolithic and the Neolithic....
flints have been found in the area, and a Neolithic stone axe was discovered on Mynydd Mawr. Hut circles are visible on the summits, and part of a Roman
Ancient Rome
Ancient Rome was a thriving civilization that grew on the Italian Peninsula as early as the 8th century BC. Located along the Mediterranean Sea and centered on the city of Rome, it expanded to one of the largest empires in the ancient world....
anchor was recovered off Trwyn Bychestyn.
At Mynydd Mawr the picnic site
Picnic
In contemporary usage, a picnic can be defined simply as a pleasure excursion at which a meal is eaten outdoors , ideally taking place in a beautiful landscape such as a park, beside a lake or with an interesting view and possibly at a public event such as before an open air theatre performance,...
has views which, on a fine day, take in Cardigan Bay
Cardigan Bay
Cardigan Bay is a large inlet of the Irish Sea, indenting the west coast of Wales between Bardsey Island, Gwynedd in the north, and Strumble Head, Pembrokeshire at its southern end. It is the largest bay in Wales....
, Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
and the Wicklow Mountains
Wicklow Mountains
The Wicklow Mountains form the largest continuous upland area in Ireland. They occupy the whole centre of County Wicklow and stretch outside its borders into Counties Carlow, Wexford and Dublin. Where the mountains extend into County Dublin, they are known locally as the Dublin Mountains...
; at night, South Stack Lighthouse
South Stack
South Stack is an island situated just off Holy Island on the North West coast of Anglesey. It is famous as the location of one of Wales' most spectacular lighthouses.-South Stack Lighthouse:...
is visible in the distance. A road to the summit, owned by the National Trust
National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty
The National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty, usually known as the National Trust, is a conservation organisation in England, Wales and Northern Ireland...
, was built during the Second World War to provide access to the heights, where men were posted to give early warning to Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool is a city and metropolitan borough of Merseyside, England, along the eastern side of the Mersey Estuary. It was founded as a borough in 1207 and was granted city status in 1880...
of Luftwaffe air raids. The former Coastguard
Her Majesty's Coastguard
Her Majesty's Coastguard is the service of the government of the United Kingdom concerned with co-ordinating air-sea rescue.HM Coastguard is a section of the Maritime and Coastguard Agency responsible for the initiation and co-ordination of all civilian maritime Search and Rescue within the UK...
lookout point, manned for almost 80 years before becoming redundant in 1990, provides views over Bardsey Sound to the island. The hut contains an exhibition to the natural history of the area, and a mural created by local children.
The headland at Braich y Pwll is the only known location on the British mainland of the spotted rock rose
Tuberaria guttata
Tuberaria guttata, the spotted rockrose, is a common plant of the Mediterranean region which also occurs very locally in Wales and Ireland. The flowers are very variable with the characteristic spot at the base of the petal very variable in size and intensity of colour.The plant typically grows in...
, which produces bright yellow petals that last only one day. The coast here has open grass heath land and mountain, giving way to rugged sea cliffs and coves. There is a profusion of wildlife, and it is an ideal vantage point to watch the spring and autumn bird migrations. Chough
Red-billed Chough
The Red-billed Chough or Chough , Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax, is a bird in the crow family; it is one of only two species in the genus Pyrrhocorax...
s, peregrine falcon
Peregrine Falcon
The Peregrine Falcon , also known as the Peregrine, and historically as the Duck Hawk in North America, is a widespread bird of prey in the family Falconidae. A large, crow-sized falcon, it has a blue-gray back, barred white underparts, and a black head and "moustache"...
s, kestrels
Common Kestrel
The Common Kestrel is a bird of prey species belonging to the kestrel group of the falcon family Falconidae. It is also known as the European Kestrel, Eurasian Kestrel, or Old World Kestrel. In Britain, where no other brown falcon occurs, it is generally just called "the kestrel".This species...
, puffins
Atlantic Puffin
The Atlantic Puffin is a seabird species in the auk family. It is a pelagic bird that feeds primarily by diving for fish, but also eats other sea creatures, such as squid and crustaceans. Its most obvious characteristic during the breeding season is its brightly coloured bill...
, stonechats
European Stonechat
The European Stonechat is a small passerine bird that was formerly classed as a subspecies of the Common Stonechat. Long considered a member of the thrush family Turdidae, genetic evidence has placed it and its relatives in the Old World flycatcher family Muscicapidae.It is 11.5–13 cm long and...
, guillemots
Common Guillemot
The Common Murre or Common Guillemot is a large auk. It is also known as the Thin-billed Murre in North America. It has a circumpolar distribution, occurring in low-Arctic and boreal waters in the North-Atlantic and North Pacific...
and Manx shearwater
Manx Shearwater
The Manx Shearwater is a medium-sized shearwater in the seabird family Procellariidae. The scientific name of this species records a name shift: Manx Shearwaters were called Manks Puffins in the 17th century. Puffin is an Anglo-Norman word for the cured carcasses of nestling shearwaters...
s can be seen, and dolphins, porpoises and seals can be spotted in the water.
Above the sea cliffs are the remains of Capel Mair (St Mary's Chapel), where it was customary for pilgrims to invoke the protection of the Virgin Mary before making the dangerous crossing to Bardsey Island. At the foot of Mynydd Mawr is Ffynnon Fair (St Mary's Well), the last stop for pilgrims crossing to the island; the well is a freshwater spring which is covered twice daily by the sea, emerging from the ebbing tide with crystal clear water.
Cwrt (Court), now a large farm, was the administrative centre of Bardsey Abbey's mainland estates, and was known as the "Court of Bardsey". The steepest cliffs in the Llŷn Peninsula
Llŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
are at Y Parwyd, the scene of a local ghost story. In 1794 a newly married couple moved into a cottage nearby. Within a few years they were disturbed by a phantom, but when they read a verse from the Bible, the phantom would retreat towards Y Parwyd and hover over the cliff edge before disappearing; the couple finally moved to Bodferin
Bodferin
Bodferin is a former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. It was abolished in 1934, and incorporated into Aberdaron....
. In 1801 a ship pilot was put ashore on the rocks below the cliffs. Although very drunk, he managed to climb the cliff face and, reaching the top, fell asleep in a sheep pen. In the early morning, he awoke and, still drunk, headed for home; he walked in the wrong direction, however, and disappeared over the cliff edge into the sea.
The traditional embarkation point for pilgrims crossing to Bardsey Island was at Porth Meudwy (Hermit's Cove), now a lobster fishing
Lobster fishing
Lobster fishing, sometimes called lobstering, is the commercial or recreational harvesting of marine lobsters, spiny lobsters or crayfish.-Lobster tools and technology:...
cove. Further south is Porth y Pistyll, which has good views of Ynysoedd Gwylanod, home to puffin and guillemot colonies; and Pen y Cil, where the Precambrian
Precambrian
The Precambrian is the name which describes the large span of time in Earth's history before the current Phanerozoic Eon, and is a Supereon divided into several eons of the geologic time scale...
pillow lavas are exposed, revealing how they have been contorted over time.
Y Rhiw
The mountain-top hamlet of Y Rhiw is 3.9 miles (6.3 km) to the east. There are fine views of Llŷn
Llŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
towards Snowdonia
Snowdonia
Snowdonia is a region in north Wales and a national park of in area. It was the first to be designated of the three National Parks in Wales, in 1951.-Name and extent:...
. On the slopes of Mynydd Rhiw is a late Stone Age
Stone Age
The Stone Age is a broad prehistoric period, lasting about 2.5 million years , during which humans and their predecessor species in the genus Homo, as well as the earlier partly contemporary genera Australopithecus and Paranthropus, widely used exclusively stone as their hard material in the...
burial chamber, and Neolithic quarries. Nearby on Mynydd y Graig are three hillforts
Hillforts in Britain
Hillforts in Britain refers to the various hillforts within the island of Great Britain. Although the earliest such constructs fitting this description come from the Neolithic period, with a few also dating to the later Bronze Age, British hill forts were primarily constructed during the Iron Age...
, several hut circles and terraced fields that are thought to date from the late Iron Age
Iron Age
The Iron Age is the archaeological period generally occurring after the Bronze Age, marked by the prevalent use of iron. The early period of the age is characterized by the widespread use of iron or steel. The adoption of such material coincided with other changes in society, including differing...
; in 1955 a Bronze Age
Bronze Age
The Bronze Age is a period characterized by the use of copper and its alloy bronze as the chief hard materials in the manufacture of some implements and weapons. Chronologically, it stands between the Stone Age and Iron Age...
cinerary urn was uncovered in the village.
Plas yn Rhiw, owned by the National Trust
National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty
The National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty, usually known as the National Trust, is a conservation organisation in England, Wales and Northern Ireland...
, is an early 17th-century house that was restored by the Keating sisters in 1939, with advice from Clough Williams-Ellis
Clough Williams-Ellis
Sir Bertram Clough Williams-Ellis, CBE, MC was an English-born Welsh architect known chiefly as creator of the Italianate village of Portmeirion in North Wales.-Origins, education and early career:...
. It is believed that the house is on or near the site of an earlier defended house, built by Meirion Goch in the 10th century to prevent incursions by Vikings into Porth Neigwl.
Transport
Aberdaron lies at the western end of the B4413 roadB roads in Zone 4 of the Great Britain numbering scheme
B roads are numbered routes in Great Britain of lesser importance than A roads. See the article Great Britain road numbering scheme for the rationale behind the numbers allocated.-3 digits:-4 digits :-4 digits :-4 digits :...
. The road runs east to Llanbedrog
Llanbedrog
Llanbedrog is a village and community on the Llŷn peninsula of Gwynedd in Wales. It is situated on the south side of the peninsula on the A499 between Pwllheli and Abersoch. Formerly in the county of Caernarfonshire, it has a population of 1,020....
, where it connects with the A499 Pwllheli
Pwllheli
Pwllheli is a community and the main market town of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, north-western Wales. It has a population of 3,861, of which a large proportion, 81 per cent, are Welsh speaking. Pwllheli is the place where Plaid Cymru was founded. It is the birthplace of Albert Evans-Jones -...
to Abersoch
Abersoch
Abersoch is a large village in the community of Llanengan in Gwynedd, Wales. It is a popular coastal seaside resort with approximately 1,000 inhabitants, on the east-facing south coast of the Llŷn Peninsula at the southern terminus of the A499. It is about south-west of Pwllheli and south-west of...
road.
Buses are provided by two companies. Service 17 is operated by Nefyn Coaches, with six Monday to Saturday return journeys on the Pwllheli–Llanbedrog–Mynytho
Mynytho
Mynytho is a small village in the parish of Llangian near the southern coast of the Llŷn Peninsula in north-west Wales. It consists of only a few houses, beautiful scenery and some farmland...
–Nanhoron–Botwnnog
Botwnnog
Botwnnog is a village and community in Gwynedd in Wales, located on the Llŷn Peninsula. It has a population of 955.It lies between Mynytho and Sarn Meyllteyrn, and is the home to two schools, a primary Pont Y Gof Primary School, and secondary . It also has the main branch of general practician ...
–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Penygroeslon–Rhoshirwaun–Aberdaron route. Two of the Aberdaron bound journeys divert through Bryn-croes. Arriva Buses Wales
Arriva Buses Wales
Arriva Buses Wales is a division of Arriva that operates bus services in north Wales. It has its origins in the former Crosville Motor Services. Arriva Buses Wales has approximately 700 employees. The company's official name is Arriva Cymru Ltd.-History:...
provide a late night return journey on Saturdays. Service 17 is supplemented by Nefyn Coaches service 17b, running return journeys twice a day, Monday to Saturday, largely over the same route, but with diversions to serve Penllech
Penllech
Penllech is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The parish was abolished in 1934, and incorporated into Tudweiliog....
and Llangwnnad towards Aberdaron, or Penycaerau and Y Rhiw heading back to Pwllheli.
The irregular Nefyn Coaches service 8b has an early morning weekday Nefyn
Nefyn
Nefyn is a small town and community on the north west coast of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, Wales, with a population of 2,619. Welsh is the first language of almost 80% of its inhabitants. The A497 road terminates in the town centre.-History:...
–Tudweiliog
Tudweiliog
Tudweiliog is a small, predominantly Welsh speaking village and community on the northern coast of the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd...
–Llangwnnadl
Llangwnnadl
Llangwnnadl is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The parish was abolished in 1934, and incorporated into Tudweiliog....
–Penygroeslon–Rhydlios bus, which operates only during school holidays. On Wednesdays throughout the year, a return journey runs the Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd–Aberdaron–Penycaerau–Y Rhiw–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedrog–Pwllheli route. On other weekdays a Nefyn–Tudweiliog–Llangwnnadl–Penygroeslon–Aberdaron–Uwchmynydd bus runs. On Wednesdays during school terms, an afternoon journey runs on the Y Rhiw–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedgrog–Pwllheli route. At weekends, a Saturday morning bus operates Nefyn–Dinas–Rhos-ddu–Brynmawr–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Pant–Uwchmynydd. This then makes a journey through the heart of Llŷn on the Uwchmynydd–Porth Or–Rhydlios–Pant–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Brynmawr–Rhos-ddu–Dinas–Llaniestyn–Garnfadryn–Rhyd-y-clafdy–Efailnewydd
Efailnewydd
Efailnewydd is a village on the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. It lies 1.2 miles north west to the market town of Pwllheli. The village forms part of the community of Llannor along with the villages of Abererch and Rhos-fawr.Pwllheli Rugby Club's playing field and clubhouse are...
–Pwllheli route, returning in the afternoon. It completes the day retracing its steps over the Uwchmynydd–Pant–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Brynmawr–Rhos-ddu–Dinas–Nefyn route.
On weekdays other than Wednesdays, Nefyn Coaches service 334 runs a morning Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd–Aberdaron–Penygroeslon–Llangwnnadl–Tudweiliog–Nefyn route. A second journey at midday operates from Uwchmynydd over the same route to Nefyn, and on to Pwllheli. Each weekday, an early evening bus runs the Penygroeslon–Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd route, while on Wednesdays during school holidays an afternoon Rhydlios–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedrog–Pwllheli bus runs.
Bardsey Boat Trips operates passenger ferries between Porth Meudwy and Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
. These are supplemented by Enlli Charters, who sail between Pwllheli and the island.
The nearest railway station is at Pwllheli, 14.8 miles (23.8 km) to the east, on the Cambrian Coast Line to Machynlleth
Machynlleth
Machynlleth is a market town in Powys, Wales. It is in the Dyfi Valley at the intersection of the A487 and the A489 roads.Machynlleth was the seat of Owain Glyndŵr's Welsh Parliament in 1404, and as such claims to be the "ancient capital of Wales". However, it has never held any official...
. Services are provided by Arriva Trains Wales
Arriva Trains Wales
Arriva Trains Wales is a train operating company, owned by Arriva, that operates urban and inter urban passenger services in Wales and the Welsh Marches...
, with some trains continuing to Shrewsbury
Shrewsbury
Shrewsbury is the county town of Shropshire, in the West Midlands region of England. Lying on the River Severn, it is a civil parish home to some 70,000 inhabitants, and is the primary settlement and headquarters of Shropshire Council...
and Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham is a city and metropolitan borough in the West Midlands of England. It is the most populous British city outside the capital London, with a population of 1,036,900 , and lies at the heart of the West Midlands conurbation, the second most populous urban area in the United Kingdom with a...
.
Public services
Water and sanitation are provided by Dŵr CymruWelsh Water
Dŵr Cymru Welsh Water is a company which supplies drinking water and wastewater services to most of Wales and parts of western England.It is regulated under the Water Industry Act 1991.-History:...
(Welsh Water), owned by Glas Cymru, a company limited by guarantee
Company limited by guarantee
In British and Irish company law, a private company limited by guarantee is an alternative type of corporation used primarily for non-profit organisations that require legal personality. A guarantee company does not usually have a share capital or shareholders, but instead has members who act as...
. The electricity distribution company
Distribution Network Operator
Distribution network operators are companies licensed to distribute electricity in Great Britain by the Office of Gas and Electricity Markets....
is Scottish Power
Scottish Power
ScottishPower Ltd. is a vertically integrated energy company with its headquarters in Glasgow, Scotland. It was listed on the London Stock Exchange and was once a constituent of the FTSE 100 Index but in 2006 it became a subsidiary of the Spanish utility Iberdrola...
, a subsidiary of the Basque
Basque Country (autonomous community)
The Basque Country is an autonomous community of northern Spain. It includes the Basque provinces of Álava, Biscay and Gipuzkoa, also called Historical Territories....
utility Iberdrola
Iberdrola
Iberdrola , headquartered in Bilbao, is a private utility with a global footprint and over 150 years of experience...
.
Welsh Ambulance Services
Welsh Ambulance Services NHS Trust
The Welsh Ambulance Services NHS Trust is an NHS trust which manages all ambulance services for the National Health Service in Wales. The trust has its headquarters in H.M. Stanley Hospital, St Asaph, Denbighshire....
provide ambulance and paramedic services; and North West Wales NHS Trust is responsible for hospital services. The nearest community hospital is Ysbyty Bryn Beryl at Pwllheli
Pwllheli
Pwllheli is a community and the main market town of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, north-western Wales. It has a population of 3,861, of which a large proportion, 81 per cent, are Welsh speaking. Pwllheli is the place where Plaid Cymru was founded. It is the birthplace of Albert Evans-Jones -...
; for 24-hour accident and emergency services the nearest provision is at Ysbyty Gwynedd in Bangor
Bangor, Gwynedd
Bangor is a city in Gwynedd, north west Wales, and one of the smallest cities in Britain. It is a university city with a population of 13,725 at the 2001 census, not including around 10,000 students at Bangor University. Including nearby Menai Bridge on Anglesey, which does not however form part of...
. The general provision of health services is the responsibility of Gwynedd Local Health Board .
Law enforcement is the responsibility of North Wales Police
North Wales Police
North Wales Police is the territorial police force responsible for policing North Wales. The headquarters are in Colwyn Bay, with divisional headquarters in St Asaph, Caernarfon and Wrexham....
, formed in 1967 as Gwynedd Constabulary. North Wales Fire and Rescue Service
North Wales Fire and Rescue Service
The North Wales Fire and Rescue Service is the fire and rescue service covering the predominantly rural principal areas of Anglesey, Conwy, Denbighshire, Flintshire, Gwynedd and Wrexham in the north of Wales....
was created in 1996 by the merger of the Gwynedd
Gwynedd
Gwynedd is a county in north-west Wales, named after the old Kingdom of Gwynedd. Although the second biggest in terms of geographical area, it is also one of the most sparsely populated...
and Clwyd
Clwyd
Clwyd is a preserved county of Wales, situated in the north-east, bordering England with Cheshire to its east, Shropshire to the south-east, and the Welsh counties of Gwynedd to its immediate west and Powys to the south. It additionally shares a maritime border with the metropolitan county of...
fire brigades; it provides public protection services, operating out of the fire station at Abersoch
Abersoch
Abersoch is a large village in the community of Llanengan in Gwynedd, Wales. It is a popular coastal seaside resort with approximately 1,000 inhabitants, on the east-facing south coast of the Llŷn Peninsula at the southern terminus of the A499. It is about south-west of Pwllheli and south-west of...
.
Education
In the early 19th century there was a school for poor children, which moved in a four year cycle between Aberdaron, LlanfaelrhysLlanfaelrhys
Llanfaelrhys is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd, located on the Llŷn Peninsula. The parish was abolished in 1934 and incorporated into Aberdaron.-External links:...
, Bryncroes
Bryncroes
Bryncroes is a hamlet and former civil parish in Gwynedd in Wales, and lies on the Llŷn Peninsula approximately 2 km west of Sarn Mellteyrn. The parish was abolished in 1934 and divided between Botwnnog and Aberdaron. The village was the scene of fierce protests between 1969 and 1972 when it...
and Y Rhiw. The Elementary Education Act 1870
Elementary Education Act 1870
The Elementary Education Act 1870, commonly known as Forster's Education Act, set the framework for schooling of all children between ages 5 and 12 in England and Wales...
provided for local school boards, but was opposed by the established church. The process of establishing boards was lengthy, and the government had to enforce the regulations in Aberdaron, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw; the national school
National school (England and Wales)
A national school was a school founded in 19th century England and Wales by the National Society for Promoting Religious Education.These schools provided elementary education, in accordance with the teaching of the Church of England, to the children of the poor.Together with the less numerous...
opened at Y Rhiw in 1877 and had 74 pupils on its register; it closed in 1965.
Primary education
Primary Education in Wales
Primary Education in Wales has a similar structure to Primary Education in England, but teaching of the Welsh language is compulsory and it is used as the medium of instruction in many schools...
is now provided by Ysgol Crud y Werin in Aberdaron, which has 54 pupils, and by Ysgol Llidiardau in Rhoshirwaun, established in 1880, which has 21 pupils. At the last inspection of Ysgol Crud y Werin, by Estyn
Estyn
Estyn is the education and training inspectorate for Wales. Its name comes from the Welsh language verb meaning "to extend". Its mission is to achieve excellence for all in learning in Wales by providing an independent, high quality inspection and advice service to the Welsh Assembly Government and...
in 2008, there were no pupils entitled to free school meals, and 84 per cent came from homes where Welsh was the main spoken language; Welsh is the main medium of teaching. Ysgol Llidiardau was last inspected in 2009; 18 per cent of pupils were entitled to free school meals and 36 per cent came from homes where Welsh was the predominant language. Secondary school pupils mainly attend Ysgol Botwnnog.
Culture
Aberdaron is a predominantly Welsh-speaking community; 75.2 per cent of the population speak the language. A mobile library visits a number of sites in the community each week; and Llanw Llŷn, a papur bro published in AbersochAbersoch
Abersoch is a large village in the community of Llanengan in Gwynedd, Wales. It is a popular coastal seaside resort with approximately 1,000 inhabitants, on the east-facing south coast of the Llŷn Peninsula at the southern terminus of the A499. It is about south-west of Pwllheli and south-west of...
, serves the area; the local English newspapers are the Caernarfon and Denbigh Herald, published in Caernarfon
Caernarfon
Caernarfon is a Royal town, community and port in Gwynedd, Wales, with a population of 9,611. It lies along the A487 road, on the east banks of the Menai Straits, opposite the Isle of Anglesey. The city of Bangor is to the northeast, while Snowdonia fringes Caernarfon to the east and southeast...
; and the Cambrian News
Cambrian News
The Cambrian News is a weekly newspaper distributed in Wales. It was founded in 1860 and is based in Cefn Llan Science Park, Aberystwyth. Cambrian News Ltd was bought by media entrepreneur Sir Ray Tindle in 1998.- History :...
, published in Aberystwyth
Aberystwyth
Aberystwyth is a historic market town, administrative centre and holiday resort within Ceredigion, Wales. Often colloquially known as Aber, it is located at the confluence of the rivers Ystwyth and Rheidol....
. Summer harp recitals and concerts are held in St Hywyn's Church; Gŵyl Pen Draw'r Byd (The Land's End Festival) is a yearly event which includes beach side concerts and competitions on the shore, with an evening concert at Morfa Mawr Farm; Gŵyl Pentre Coll (The Lost Village Festival), a festival of contemporary acoustic music, has been held since 2008 at Felin Uchaf in Rhoshirwaun; and a local eisteddfod, Eisteddfod Flynyddol Uwchmynydd, is held at Ysgol Crud y Werin.
The poet Ronald Stuart Thomas
R. S. Thomas
Ronald Stuart Thomas was a Welsh poet and Anglican clergyman, noted for his nationalism, spirituality and deep dislike of the anglicisation of Wales...
was vicar of St Hywyn's Church from 1967 to 1978; when he retired he lived for some years in Y Rhiw. An ardent Welsh nationalist who learnt to speak Welsh, his poetry was based on his religious faith. In 1995 he was nominated for the Nobel Prize in Literature
Nobel Prize in Literature
Since 1901, the Nobel Prize in Literature has been awarded annually to an author from any country who has, in the words from the will of Alfred Nobel, produced "in the field of literature the most outstanding work in an ideal direction"...
, and he was widely regarded as the best religious poet of his time. The subject of one of Thomas's poems, Richard Robert Jones, better known as "Dic Aberdaron
Dic Aberdaron
Dic Aberdaron was a Welsh traveller and polyglot. He had little or no formal education, but was reputed to have taught himself 14 or 15 languages, both ancient and modern, including Latin at the age of 11....
", was born in the village in 1780. Despite very little formal education, he is said to have been fluent in 14 languages, and spent years travelling the country accompanied by his books and his cat.
Roy Campbell (poet)
Ignatius Royston Dunnachie Campbell, better known as Roy Campbell, was an Anglo-African poet and satirist. He was considered by T. S. Eliot, Dylan Thomas and Edith Sitwell to have been one of the best poets of the period between the First and Second World Wars...
published The Flaming Terrapin, written in a "croglofft cottage" above Porth Ysgo, in 1922; he was considered to be one of the best poets of the period between the two world wars. Considered one of the most significant Welsh poets of the 15th century, Dafydd Nanmor
Dafydd Nanmor
Dafydd Nanmor was a Welsh language poet born at Nanmor , in Gwynedd, north-west Wales. He is one of the most significant poets of this period....
, in Gwallt Llio, compared the striking yellow colour of the rocks at Uwchmynydd, covered by golden hair lichen
Teloschistes
Teloschistes is a genus of lichenized fungi in the family Teloschistaceae.-External links:*...
, to the colour of his loved one's hair. Lewys Daron
Lewys Daron
Lewys Daron was a Welsh-language professional poet from the Llŷn area of Gwynedd, Wales. Although not considered to be one of the foremost of the Poets of the Nobility, his work provides a portrait of the gentry society of north-west Wales at the start of the Tudor period.On the basis of his name...
, a 16th-century poet best known for his elegy to friend and fellow poet Tudur Aled
Tudur Aled
Tudur Aled was a late medieval Welsh poet, born in Llansannan, Denbighshire.He is regarded as one of the finest poets of his period and was a master of cynghanedd....
, is thought to have been born in Aberdaron.
Yorkshire-born poet Christine Evans
Christine Evans (poet)
Christine Evans is an English poet who was born in West Riding, Yorkshire.Evans lives half the year on Bardsey Island, spending winters at Uwchmynydd. In 1967 she moved to Pwllheli, where her father and grandmother were brought up, to work as a teacher, and married into a Bardsey Island farming...
lives half the year on Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
and spends the winters at Uwchmynydd. She moved to Pwllheli
Pwllheli
Pwllheli is a community and the main market town of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, north-western Wales. It has a population of 3,861, of which a large proportion, 81 per cent, are Welsh speaking. Pwllheli is the place where Plaid Cymru was founded. It is the birthplace of Albert Evans-Jones -...
as a teacher and married into a Bardsey Island farming family. On maternity leave in 1976, she started writing poems; her first book was published seven years later. Cometary Phrases was Welsh Book of the Year 1989 and she was the winner of the inaugural Roland Mathias Prize in 2005.
Edgar Ewart Pritchard, an amateur film-maker from Brownhills
Brownhills
Brownhills is a town in the West Midlands, England. Located on the edge of Cannock Chase near the large artificial lake Chasewater, it is north-east of Walsall and a similar distance south-west of Lichfield. It is part of the Metropolitan Borough of Walsall and the Aldridge-Brownhills...
, produced "The Island in the Current", a colour movie of life on Bardsey Island, in 1953; a copy of the film is held by the National Screen and Sound Archive of Wales. A candle lantern, discovered in 1946 in a cowshed at Y Rhiw, is now displayed in St Fagans National History Museum
St Fagans National History Museum
St Fagans National History Museum , commonly referred to as St Fagans after the village where it is located, is an open-air museum in Cardiff chronicling the historical lifestyle, culture and architecture of the Welsh people...
; and Iron Age
Iron Age
The Iron Age is the archaeological period generally occurring after the Bronze Age, marked by the prevalent use of iron. The early period of the age is characterized by the widespread use of iron or steel. The adoption of such material coincided with other changes in society, including differing...
pottery found at Castell Odo is on display at Gwynedd Museum and Art Gallery in Bangor
Bangor, Gwynedd
Bangor is a city in Gwynedd, north west Wales, and one of the smallest cities in Britain. It is a university city with a population of 13,725 at the 2001 census, not including around 10,000 students at Bangor University. Including nearby Menai Bridge on Anglesey, which does not however form part of...
.
Dilys Cadwaladr
Dilys Cadwaladr
Dilys Cadwaladr was a Welsh poet.She is notable for being the first woman ever to win the Crown at the National Eisteddfod of Wales. She achieved this feat in 1953 at Rhyl.-References:...
, the former school teacher on Bardsey Island, in 1953 became the first woman to win the Crown at the National Eisteddfod for her long poem Y Llen; and artist Brenda Chamberlain
Brenda Chamberlain (artist)
Brenda Chamberlain was a Welsh artist and poet.Born in Bangor, Wales, she studied art at the Royal Academy in London, but simultaneously developed an interest in poetry. Just before the Second World War, she moved in with artist John Petts, and together they set up the Caseg Press at their home...
twice won the Gold Medal for Art at the Eisteddfod; some of the murals she painted can still be seen on the walls of Carreg, her island home from 1947 to 1962. Wildlife artist Kim Atkinson, whose work has been widely exhibited in Wales and England, spent her childhood on the island and returned to live there in the 1980s.
Since 1999, Bardsey Island Trust has appointed an Artist in Residence to spend several weeks on the island producing work which is later exhibited on the mainland. A Welsh literary residence was created in 2002; singer-songwriter Fflur Dafydd
Fflur Dafydd
Fflur Dafydd is an award winning novelist, singer-songwriter and musician. Whilst predominantly publishing in Welsh, she also writes in English. She records in Welsh, and her work is regularly played on Radio Cymru.-Early life:...
spent six weeks working on a collection of poetry and prose. Her play Hugo was inspired by her stay, and she has produced two novels, Atyniad (Attraction), which won the prose medal at the 2006 Eisteddfod; and Twenty Thousand Saints, winner of the Oxfam Hay Prize, which tells how the women of the island, starved of men, turn to each other.
It was tradition for Bardsey Island to elect the "King of Bardsey" , and from 1820 onwards he would be crowned by Baron Newborough or his representative; the crown is now kept at Merseyside Maritime Museum
Merseyside Maritime Museum
The Merseyside Maritime Museum is a museum based in the city of Liverpool, Merseyside, England. It is part of National Museums Liverpool and an Anchor Point of ERIH, The European Route of Industrial Heritage...
in Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool is a city and metropolitan borough of Merseyside, England, along the eastern side of the Mersey Estuary. It was founded as a borough in 1207 and was granted city status in 1880...
, although calls have been made for it to return to Gwynedd. At the outbreak of the First World War, the last king, Love Pritchard, offered himself and the men of the island for military service, but he was refused as he was considered too old at the age of 71; Pritchard took umbrage, and declared the island to be a neutral power. In 1925 Pritchard left the island for the mainland, to seek a less laborious way of life, but died the following year.
Owen Griffith, a qualified pharmacist from Penycaerau, who was known as the "Doctor of the Wild Wart", used a traditional herbalist remedy to cure basal cell carcinoma
Basal cell carcinoma
Basal-cell carcinoma is the most common type of skin cancer. It rarely metastasizes or kills. However, because it can cause significant destruction and disfigurement by invading surrounding tissues, it is still considered malignant. Statistically, approximately 3 out of 10 Caucasians may develop a...
, also known as rodent ulcer; the remedy had supposedly been passed on to the family 300 years earlier by an Irish tinker
Irish Traveller
Irish Travellers are a traditionally nomadic people of ethnic Irish origin, who maintain a separate language and set of traditions. They live predominantly in the Republic of Ireland, the United Kingdom and the United States.-Etymology:...
. In 1932 a woman died while receiving treatment and, even though the inquest
Inquest
Inquests in England and Wales are held into sudden and unexplained deaths and also into the circumstances of discovery of a certain class of valuable artefacts known as "treasure trove"...
into her death found that no blame was apportioned to the treatment, the Chief Medical Officer for Caernarfonshire
Caernarfonshire
Caernarfonshire , historically spelled as Caernarvonshire or Carnarvonshire in English during its existence, was one of the thirteen historic counties, a vice-county and a former administrative county of Wales....
vociferously condemned the treatment in the press. Former patients came out in support of the pharmacist, and petitions were sent to the Department of Health demanding that a medical licence be granted to Griffith and his cousin.
There are several folk tales of the Tylwyth Teg
Tylwyth teg
The Tylwyth Teg is the common term in Wales for fairies. A synonym, Bendith y Mamau, means "Blessing of the Mothers". Until the early 19th century it was commonly believed that the Tylwyth Teg, described as ethereal, beautiful and fair-haired, dwelt in a number of places in Wales as genii loci...
, the fairy
Fairy
A fairy is a type of mythical being or legendary creature, a form of spirit, often described as metaphysical, supernatural or preternatural.Fairies resemble various beings of other mythologies, though even folklore that uses the term...
people who inhabited the area and an invisible land in Cardigan Bay
Cardigan Bay
Cardigan Bay is a large inlet of the Irish Sea, indenting the west coast of Wales between Bardsey Island, Gwynedd in the north, and Strumble Head, Pembrokeshire at its southern end. It is the largest bay in Wales....
. One tells of a farmer from Aberdaron who was in the habit of stepping outside his house before retiring to bed. One night he was spoken to by a stranger, who asked why the farmer was annoyed by him. The farmer, confused, asked what the stranger meant and was told to stand with one foot on the stranger's. This he did, and could see another house, just below his own, and that all the farm's slops went down the chimney of the invisible house. The stranger asked if the farmer would move his door to the other side of the house, which the farmer subsequently did, walling up the original door; from that day, the farmer's livestock flourished, and he became one of the most prosperous men in the area.
Religion
A church was founded in Aberdaron in the 6th century by Saint Hywyn, a follower of Saint CadfanSaint Cadfan
Saint Cadfan, ; , Abbot of Tywyn and Bardsey was a Breton Saint who lived in 6th century Wales. A Breton nobleman, he was the son of Eneas Ledewig , and Gwen Teirbron, a daughter of Budic II, a King of Brittany.- Associations & Legacy :...
; it was a significant institution, a monastery and centre of religious learning, rather than simply a place of worship for the locals. The present double-naved St Hywyn's Church , built in 1137 and known as "The Cathedral of Llŷn", stands above the shore and was on the pilgrim route to Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
. It contains a 12th-century Romanesque
Romanesque architecture
Romanesque architecture is an architectural style of Medieval Europe characterised by semi-circular arches. There is no consensus for the beginning date of the Romanesque architecture, with proposals ranging from the 6th to the 10th century. It developed in the 12th century into the Gothic style,...
arched door, and a square bell turret. The church was extended in 1417 and abandoned in 1841, when the locals decided to build a new church, Eglwys Newydd, in the village; the new building, however, proved unpopular and the congregation returned in 1906. Inside is a display about the life and works of the poet, Ronald Stuart Thomas
R. S. Thomas
Ronald Stuart Thomas was a Welsh poet and Anglican clergyman, noted for his nationalism, spirituality and deep dislike of the anglicisation of Wales...
; and in the churchyard stand Y Meini Feracius a Senagus (The Veracius and Senacus Stones), the tombstones of two 5th-century Christian priests, found in the 18th century on farmland near Mynydd Anelog. In 2008 the church became the centre of controversy when the local vicar blessed a gay civil partnership, after approval by the local church council; the vicar was reprimanded by Barry Morgan
Barry Morgan
Barry Cennydd Morgan has been the Archbishop of the Church in Wales since 2003.-Early life:Morgan was born in Gwaun-Cae-Gurwen, Neath Port Talbot and studied history at University College, London and theology at Selwyn College, Cambridge...
, the Archbishop of Wales
Archbishop of Wales
The post of Archbishop of Wales was created in 1920 when the Church in Wales was separated from the Church of England , and disestablished...
Aberdaron is a community
Community (Wales)
A community is a division of land in Wales that forms the lowest-tier of local government in Wales. Welsh communities are analogous to civil parishes in England....
and former fishing village at the western tip of the Llŷn Peninsula
Llŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
in the Welsh
Wales
Wales is a country that is part of the United Kingdom and the island of Great Britain, bordered by England to its east and the Atlantic Ocean and Irish Sea to its west. It has a population of three million, and a total area of 20,779 km²...
county of Gwynedd
Gwynedd
Gwynedd is a county in north-west Wales, named after the old Kingdom of Gwynedd. Although the second biggest in terms of geographical area, it is also one of the most sparsely populated...
. It lies 14.8 miles (23.8 km) west of Pwllheli
Pwllheli
Pwllheli is a community and the main market town of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, north-western Wales. It has a population of 3,861, of which a large proportion, 81 per cent, are Welsh speaking. Pwllheli is the place where Plaid Cymru was founded. It is the birthplace of Albert Evans-Jones -...
and 33.5 miles (53.9 km) south west of Caernarfon
Caernarfon
Caernarfon is a Royal town, community and port in Gwynedd, Wales, with a population of 9,611. It lies along the A487 road, on the east banks of the Menai Straits, opposite the Isle of Anglesey. The city of Bangor is to the northeast, while Snowdonia fringes Caernarfon to the east and southeast...
, and has a population of 1,019. It is sometimes referred to as the "Land's End of Wales" . The community includes Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
, the coastal area around Porthor, and the villages of Anelog, Llanfaelrhys
Llanfaelrhys
Llanfaelrhys is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd, located on the Llŷn Peninsula. The parish was abolished in 1934 and incorporated into Aberdaron.-External links:...
, Penycaerau, Rhoshirwaun, Rhydlios, Uwchmynydd and Y Rhiw.
The village was the last rest stop for pilgrims heading to Bardsey Island, the legendary "island of 20,000 saints". In the 18th and 19th centuries it developed as a shipbuilding centre and port. The mining and quarrying industries became major employers, and limestone
Limestone
Limestone is a sedimentary rock composed largely of the minerals calcite and aragonite, which are different crystal forms of calcium carbonate . Many limestones are composed from skeletal fragments of marine organisms such as coral or foraminifera....
, lead
Lead
Lead is a main-group element in the carbon group with the symbol Pb and atomic number 82. Lead is a soft, malleable poor metal. It is also counted as one of the heavy metals. Metallic lead has a bluish-white color after being freshly cut, but it soon tarnishes to a dull grayish color when exposed...
, jasper
Jasper
Jasper, a form of chalcedony, is an opaque, impure variety of silica, usually red, yellow, brown or green in color; and rarely blue. This mineral breaks with a smooth surface, and is used for ornamentation or as a gemstone. It can be highly polished and is used for vases, seals, and at one time for...
and manganese
Manganese
Manganese is a chemical element, designated by the symbol Mn. It has the atomic number 25. It is found as a free element in nature , and in many minerals...
were exported. After the Second World War the mining industry collapsed, and Aberdaron gradually developed into a popular holiday resort. The beach was awarded a Seaside Award in 2008.
The coastal waters are part of Pen Llŷn a'r Sarnau Special Area of Conservation , one of the largest marine designated sites in the United Kingdom. The coast itself forms part of the Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island Special Protection Area , and was designated a Heritage Coast in 1974. In 1956 the area was included in Llŷn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty . Conservation Areas have been created in Aberdaron, Bardsey Island and Y Rhiw; and the area has been designated a Landscape of Historic Interest.
Etymology
Aberdaron means "Mouth of the Oak River", a reference to the Afon Daron (River Daron) which flows into Bae Aberdaron (Aberdaron Bay) in the village.History
Evidence from one of the most important archaeological sites in Wales, the Iron AgeIron Age
The Iron Age is the archaeological period generally occurring after the Bronze Age, marked by the prevalent use of iron. The early period of the age is characterized by the widespread use of iron or steel. The adoption of such material coincided with other changes in society, including differing...
hillfort
Hillforts in Britain
Hillforts in Britain refers to the various hillforts within the island of Great Britain. Although the earliest such constructs fitting this description come from the Neolithic period, with a few also dating to the later Bronze Age, British hill forts were primarily constructed during the Iron Age...
at Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum, suggests that the area around Aberdaron was colonised early, as a wave of Celtic settlers explored the Irish Sea
Irish Sea
The Irish Sea separates the islands of Ireland and Great Britain. It is connected to the Celtic Sea in the south by St George's Channel, and to the Atlantic Ocean in the north by the North Channel. Anglesey is the largest island within the Irish Sea, followed by the Isle of Man...
, probably around the 4th century BC. The construction was wholly defensive, but in later phases defence appears to have been less important, and in the last phase the fort's ramparts were deliberately flattened, suggesting there was no longer a need for defence. It appears that Aberdaron became a peaceful farming community. Ptolemy
Ptolemy
Claudius Ptolemy , was a Roman citizen of Egypt who wrote in Greek. He was a mathematician, astronomer, geographer, astrologer, and poet of a single epigram in the Greek Anthology. He lived in Egypt under Roman rule, and is believed to have been born in the town of Ptolemais Hermiou in the...
calls the Llŷn Peninsula
Llŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
"Ganganorum Promontorium" (Peninsula of the Gangani); the Gangani
Gangani
The Gangani were a people of ancient Ireland who are referred to in Ptolemy's 2nd century Geography as living in the south-west of the island, probably near the mouth of the River Shannon, between the Auteini to the north and the Uellabori to the south...
were a tribe of Irish Celts, and it is thought there may have been strong ties with Leinster
Leinster
Leinster is one of the Provinces of Ireland situated in the east of Ireland. It comprises the ancient Kingdoms of Mide, Osraige and Leinster. Following the Norman invasion of Ireland, the historic fifths of Leinster and Mide gradually merged, mainly due to the impact of the Pale, which straddled...
.
Right of asylum
Right of asylum is an ancient juridical notion, under which a person persecuted for political opinions or religious beliefs in his or her own country may be protected by another sovereign authority, a foreign country, or church sanctuaries...
. In 1094 Gruffydd ap Cynan
Gruffydd ap Cynan
Gruffydd ap Cynan was a King of Gwynedd. In the course of a long and eventful life, he became a key figure in Welsh resistance to Norman rule, and was remembered as King of all Wales...
, the exiled King of Gwynedd
Kingdom of Gwynedd
Gwynedd was one petty kingdom of several Welsh successor states which emerged in 5th-century post-Roman Britain in the Early Middle Ages, and later evolved into a principality during the High Middle Ages. It was based on the former Brythonic tribal lands of the Ordovices, Gangani, and the...
, sought refuge in the church while attempting to recapture his throne; he escaped in the monastic community's boat to Ireland. He regained his territories in 1101, and in 1115 Gruffydd ap Rhys
Gruffydd ap Rhys
Gruffydd ap Rhys was Prince of Deheubarth, in Wales. His sister was the Princess Nest ferch Rhys.-Early life:Following the death of Gruffydd's father Rhys ap Tewdwr in 1093, Deheubarth was taken over by the Normans, and Gruffydd spent much of his early years in exile in Ireland.In 1113 Gruffydd...
, the exiled prince of Deheubarth, took refuge at Aberdaron to escape capture by Gwynedd's ruler. Henry I of England
Henry I of England
Henry I was the fourth son of William I of England. He succeeded his elder brother William II as King of England in 1100 and defeated his eldest brother, Robert Curthose, to become Duke of Normandy in 1106...
had invaded Gwynedd the previous year, and faced by an overwhelming force, Gruffydd ap Cynan had been forced to pay homage and a substantial fine to Henry. The King of Gwynedd, seeking to give up the exiled prince to Henry, ordered that the fugitive prince be dragged from the church by force, but his soldiers were beaten back by the local clergy; Gruffydd ap Rhys escaped under cover of night and fled south to join up with his supporters in Ystrad Tywi
Ystrad Tywi
Ystrad Tywi is an area of south-west Wales situated on the banks of the Tywi river as it approaches the sea to join the Bristol Channel at Carmarthen...
.
Following the conquest of Gwynedd, in 1284, Edward I
Edward I of England
Edward I , also known as Edward Longshanks and the Hammer of the Scots, was King of England from 1272 to 1307. The first son of Henry III, Edward was involved early in the political intrigues of his father's reign, which included an outright rebellion by the English barons...
set about touring his new territories. He visited the castles at Conwy
Conwy
Conwy is a walled market town and community in Conwy County Borough on the north coast of Wales. The town, which faces Deganwy across the River Conwy, formerly lay in Gwynedd and prior to that in Caernarfonshire. Conwy has a population of 14,208...
and Caernarfon
Caernarfon
Caernarfon is a Royal town, community and port in Gwynedd, Wales, with a population of 9,611. It lies along the A487 road, on the east banks of the Menai Straits, opposite the Isle of Anglesey. The city of Bangor is to the northeast, while Snowdonia fringes Caernarfon to the east and southeast...
. Court was held at Nefyn
Nefyn
Nefyn is a small town and community on the north west coast of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, Wales, with a population of 2,619. Welsh is the first language of almost 80% of its inhabitants. The A497 road terminates in the town centre.-History:...
, at which his new subjects were expected to demonstrate their loyalty; and he visited Aberdaron on his way to Bardsey Abbey.
After the English Civil War
English Civil War
The English Civil War was a series of armed conflicts and political machinations between Parliamentarians and Royalists...
, when the Parliamentarians
Roundhead
"Roundhead" was the nickname given to the supporters of the Parliament during the English Civil War. Also known as Parliamentarians, they fought against King Charles I and his supporters, the Cavaliers , who claimed absolute power and the divine right of kings...
under Oliver Cromwell
Oliver Cromwell
Oliver Cromwell was an English military and political leader who overthrew the English monarchy and temporarily turned England into a republican Commonwealth, and served as Lord Protector of England, Scotland, and Ireland....
introduced a strongly Protestant regime, Catholicism
Catholicism
Catholicism is a broad term for the body of the Catholic faith, its theologies and doctrines, its liturgical, ethical, spiritual, and behavioral characteristics, as well as a religious people as a whole....
remained the dominant religion in the area. Catholics, who had largely supported the Royalist
Cavalier
Cavalier was the name used by Parliamentarians for a Royalist supporter of King Charles I and son Charles II during the English Civil War, the Interregnum, and the Restoration...
side, were often considered to be traitors and efforts were made to eradicate the religion. The persecution even extended to Aberdaron, and in 1657, Gwen Griffiths of Y Rhiw was summoned to the Quarter Sessions
Quarter Sessions
The Courts of Quarter Sessions or Quarter Sessions were local courts traditionally held at four set times each year in the United Kingdom and other countries in the former British Empire...
as a "papist".
Agricultural improvement
British Agricultural Revolution
British Agricultural Revolution describes a period of development in Britain between the 17th century and the end of the 19th century, which saw an epoch-making increase in agricultural productivity and net output. This in turn supported unprecedented population growth, freeing up a significant...
and the Industrial Revolution
Industrial Revolution
The Industrial Revolution was a period from the 18th to the 19th century where major changes in agriculture, manufacturing, mining, transportation, and technology had a profound effect on the social, economic and cultural conditions of the times...
came to Aberdaron in the 19th century. The Inclosure (Consolidation) Act 1801 was intended to make it easier for landlords to enclose and improve common land, introduce increased efficiency, bring more land under the plough, and reduce the high prices of agricultural production. Rhoshirwaun Common, following strong opposition, was enclosed in 1814; while the process was not completed in Aberdaron, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw until 1861. On the industrial front, mining developed as a major source of employment, especially at Y Rhiw, where manganese
Manganese
Manganese is a chemical element, designated by the symbol Mn. It has the atomic number 25. It is found as a free element in nature , and in many minerals...
was discovered in 1827.
During the Second World War, Y Rhiw played a vital role in preparations for the Normandy Landings. A team of electronic engineers set up an experimental ultra high frequency
Ultra high frequency
Ultra-High Frequency designates the ITU Radio frequency range of electromagnetic waves between 300 MHz and 3 GHz , also known as the decimetre band or decimetre wave as the wavelengths range from one to ten decimetres...
radio station, from where they were able to make a direct link to stations in Fishguard
Fishguard
Fishguard is a coastal town in Pembrokeshire, south-west Wales, with a population of 3,300 . The community of Fishguard and Goodwick had a population of 5043 at the 2001 census....
and Llandudno
Llandudno
Llandudno is a seaside resort and town in Conwy County Borough, Wales. In the 2001 UK census it had a population of 20,090 including that of Penrhyn Bay and Penrhynside, which are within the Llandudno Community...
. The system employed a frequency that the German forces were unable to either monitor or jam, and was used in the 1944 landings.
Governance
Bodferin
Bodferin is a former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. It was abolished in 1934, and incorporated into Aberdaron....
, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw were civil parishes in Cwmwd Cymydmaen
Commote
A commote , sometimes spelt in older documents as cymwd, was a secular division of land in Medieval Wales. The word derives from the prefix cym- and the noun bod...
within Cantref Llŷn
Cantref Llyn
The ancient Welsh cantref of Llŷn in north-west Wales was part of the kingdom of Gwynedd for much of its history until it was included in the new county of Caernarfonshire, together with Arfon and Arllechwedd under the terms of the Statute of Rhuddlan in 1284....
, in Caernarfonshire
Caernarfonshire
Caernarfonshire , historically spelled as Caernarvonshire or Carnarvonshire in English during its existence, was one of the thirteen historic counties, a vice-county and a former administrative county of Wales....
. Following the Poor Law Amendment Act 1834
Poor Law Amendment Act 1834
The Poor Law Amendment Act 1834, sometimes abbreviated to PLAA, was an Act of the Parliament of the United Kingdom passed by the Whig government of Lord Melbourne that reformed the country's poverty relief system . It was an Amendment Act that completely replaced earlier legislation based on the...
, parishes were grouped into "unions": Pwllheli Poor Law Union was created in 1837. Under the Public Health Act 1848 the area of the poor law union became Pwllheli Rural Sanitary District, which from 1889 formed a second tier of local government under Caernarfonshire County Council. Y Rhiw was absorbed into the smaller Llanfaelrhys in 1886; and under the Local Government Act 1894
Local Government Act 1894
The Local Government Act 1894 was an Act of the Parliament of the United Kingdom that reformed local government in England and Wales outside the County of London. The Act followed the reforms carried out at county level under the Local Government Act 1888...
the four remaining parishes became part of Llŷn Rural District . Bodferin, Llanfaelrhys, and parts of Bryncroes
Bryncroes
Bryncroes is a hamlet and former civil parish in Gwynedd in Wales, and lies on the Llŷn Peninsula approximately 2 km west of Sarn Mellteyrn. The parish was abolished in 1934 and divided between Botwnnog and Aberdaron. The village was the scene of fierce protests between 1969 and 1972 when it...
and Llangwnnadl
Llangwnnadl
Llangwnnadl is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The parish was abolished in 1934, and incorporated into Tudweiliog....
, were amalgamated into Aberdaron in 1934. Llŷn Rural District was abolished in 1974, and Bardsey Island was absorbed into Aberdaron to form a community
Community (Wales)
A community is a division of land in Wales that forms the lowest-tier of local government in Wales. Welsh communities are analogous to civil parishes in England....
within Dwyfor District
Dwyfor
Dwyfor was one of the five local government districts of Gwynedd, Wales from 1974 to 1996, covering the Llŷn peninsula. Its council was based in Pwllheli....
in the new county
Preserved counties of Wales
The preserved counties of Wales are the current areas used in Wales for the ceremonial purposes of Lieutenancy and Shrievalty. They are based on the counties created by the Local Government Act 1972 and used for local government and other purposes between 1974 and 1996.-Usage:The Local Government ...
of Gwynedd
Gwynedd
Gwynedd is a county in north-west Wales, named after the old Kingdom of Gwynedd. Although the second biggest in terms of geographical area, it is also one of the most sparsely populated...
; Dwyfor was abolished when Gwynedd became a unitary authority
Unitary authority
A unitary authority is a type of local authority that has a single tier and is responsible for all local government functions within its area or performs additional functions which elsewhere in the relevant country are usually performed by national government or a higher level of sub-national...
in 1996.
The community now forms an electoral division
Wards of the United Kingdom
A ward in the United Kingdom is an electoral district at sub-national level represented by one or more councillors. It is the primary unit of British administrative and electoral geography .-England:...
of Cyngor Gwynedd
Gwynedd Council
Gwynedd Council is the governing body for the principal area of Gwynedd, one of the subdivisions of Wales within the United Kingdom.- Creation of the Authority :...
(Gwynedd Council), electing one councillor; William Gareth Roberts of Plaid Cymru
Plaid Cymru
' is a political party in Wales. It advocates the establishment of an independent Welsh state within the European Union. was formed in 1925 and won its first seat in 1966...
was re-elected in 2008. Aberdaron Community Council has 12 elected members, who represent three wards: Aberdaron De (Aberdaron South), Aberdaron Dwyrain (Aberdaron East) and Aberdaron Gogledd (Aberdaron North). Ten Independent
Independent (politician)
In politics, an independent or non-party politician is an individual not affiliated to any political party. Independents may hold a centrist viewpoint between those of major political parties, a viewpoint more extreme than any major party, or they may have a viewpoint based on issues that they do...
councillors and one from Plaid Cymru were elected unopposed in the 2008 election.
From 1950, Aberdaron was part of Caernarfon
Caernarfon (UK Parliament constituency)
Caernarfon was a parliamentary constituency centred on the town of Caernarfon in Wales. It elected one Member of Parliament by the first past the post system....
parliamentary constituency. In 2010, the community was transferred to Dwyfor Meirionnydd
Dwyfor Meirionnydd (UK Parliament constituency)
Dwyfor Meirionnydd is a constituency of the House of Commons of the Parliament of the United Kingdom . The seat was created by the Welsh Boundary Commission for the 2010 general election, and replaced the old north Wales seat of Meirionnydd Nant Conwy...
constituency, represented by Elfyn Llwyd
Elfyn Llwyd
Elfyn Llwyd, PC is a Welsh barrister and politician. He has been a Member of Parliament since 1992, representing Meirionnydd Nant Conwy in the House of Commons from 1992 to 2010 and Dwyfor Meirionnydd since 2010...
of Plaid Cymru. In the National Assembly for Wales
National Assembly for Wales
The National Assembly for Wales is a devolved assembly with power to make legislation in Wales. The Assembly comprises 60 members, who are known as Assembly Members, or AMs...
it has, since 2007, formed part of Dwyfor Meirionnydd
Dwyfor Meirionnydd (Assembly constituency)
Dwyfor Meirionnydd is a constituency of the National Assembly for Wales, created for the 2007 Assembly election. It elects one Assembly Member by the first past the post method of election...
assembly constituency, represented by Dafydd Elis-Thomas
Dafydd Elis-Thomas
Dafydd Elis Elis-Thomas, Baron Elis-Thomas, PC, AM, is a Welsh politician and was the Presiding Officer of the National Assembly for Wales until 2011...
, also of Plaid Cymru, who until 2011 was the Presiding Officer
Presiding Officer of the National Assembly for Wales
The Presiding Officer of the National Assembly for Wales is the Speaker of the National Assembly for Wales, elected by the Members of the National Assembly for Wales to chair their meetings ; to maintain order; and to protect the rights of Members.He or she also heads the Corporate Body of the...
of the assembly. The constituency forms part of the electoral region of Mid and West Wales.
Geography
Llŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
is a marine eroded platform, an extension of the Snowdonia
Snowdonia
Snowdonia is a region in north Wales and a national park of in area. It was the first to be designated of the three National Parks in Wales, in 1951.-Name and extent:...
massif, with a complex geology including Precambrian
Precambrian
The Precambrian is the name which describes the large span of time in Earth's history before the current Phanerozoic Eon, and is a Supereon divided into several eons of the geologic time scale...
rocks. The coastline is rocky, with crags, scree
Scree
Scree, also called talus, is a term given to an accumulation of broken rock fragments at the base of crags, mountain cliffs, or valley shoulders. Landforms associated with these materials are sometimes called scree slopes or talus piles...
s and low cliffs; heather covered hills are separated by valleys occupied by pastures.
To the east, Mynydd Rhiw, Mynydd y Graig and Mynydd Penarfynydd form a 3 miles (4.8 km) long series of hog-back ridges of igneous rock that reaches the sea at Trwyn Talfarach. Above 800 feet (243.8 m) the ridges are topped by hard gabbro
Gabbro
Gabbro refers to a large group of dark, coarse-grained, intrusive mafic igneous rocks chemically equivalent to basalt. The rocks are plutonic, formed when molten magma is trapped beneath the Earth's surface and cools into a crystalline mass....
. At its northern end Mynydd Rhiw rises to 1000 feet (304.8 m), the outcrop of Clip y Gylfinhir (Curlew's Crag) looming above the village of Y Rhiw. Mynydd Penarfynydd is one of the best exposures of intrusive, layered, igneous rock in the British Isles.
Boulder clay
Boulder clay, in geology, is a deposit of clay, often full of boulders, which is formed in and beneath glaciers and ice-sheets wherever they are found, but is in a special sense the typical deposit of the Glacial Period in northern Europe and North America...
to form sand, resulting in the spacious beach of Porth Neigwl (Hell's Mouth).
West of Aberdaron, four peaks rise above the rocky shoreline at Uwchmynydd. Mynydd Anelog stands 620 feet (189 m) high, Mynydd Mawr at 490 feet (149.4 m), Mynydd y Gwyddel rises to 295 feet (89.9 m) and Mynydd Bychestyn is 330 feet (100.6 m) above sea level.
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
lies 1.9 miles (3 km) off Pen y Cil. The island is 0.6 mile (0.965604 km) wide and 1 miles (1.6 km) long. The north east rises steeply from the sea to a height of 548 feet (167 m). The western plain, in contrast, comprises low, and relatively flat, cultivated farmland; in the south the island narrows to an isthmus
Isthmus
An isthmus is a narrow strip of land connecting two larger land areas usually with waterforms on either side.Canals are often built through isthmuses where they may be particularly advantageous to create a shortcut for marine transportation...
, connecting to a peninsula.
The coast around Aberdaron has been the scene of many shipwrecks. In 1822, the Bardsey Island lighthouse tender was wrecked, with the loss of six lives; and in 1752, the schooner John the Baptist, carrying a cargo of oats from Wexford
Wexford
Wexford is the county town of County Wexford, Ireland. It is situated near the southeastern corner of Ireland, close to Rosslare Europort. The town is connected to Dublin via the M11/N11 National Primary Route, and the national rail network...
to Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool is a city and metropolitan borough of Merseyside, England, along the eastern side of the Mersey Estuary. It was founded as a borough in 1207 and was granted city status in 1880...
, was wrecked on the beach at Aberdaron. The sailing ship Newry, with 400 passengers bound from Warrenpoint
Warrenpoint
Warrenpoint is a small town in County Down, Northern Ireland. It lies on the northern shore of Carlingford Lough and is separated from the Republic of Ireland by a narrow strait. The town sprang up within the townland of Ringmackilroy...
to Québec
Quebec City
Quebec , also Québec, Quebec City or Québec City is the capital of the Canadian province of Quebec and is located within the Capitale-Nationale region. It is the second most populous city in Quebec after Montreal, which is about to the southwest...
, was wrecked at Porth Orion in 1880. The crew abandoned the passengers, leaving just the captain, ship's mate and one sailor, assisted by three local men, to lead 375 men, women and children to safety. A great storm swept the country on 26 October 1859 and many ships were lost: nine were wrecked at Porthor, seven of them with complete loss of life. On the south coast, vessels were often driven ashore at Porth Neigwl by a combination of south westerly gales and treacherous offshore currents. The Transit was lost in 1839, the Arfestone the following year, and the Henry Catherine in 1866. The bay earned its English title, "Hell's Mouth", from its reputation for wrecks during the days of the sailing ship.
Aberdaron is noted for low levels of air pollution. The Gwynedd State of the Environment Report in 2004 found levels of sulfur dioxide
Sulfur dioxide
Sulfur dioxide is the chemical compound with the formula . It is released by volcanoes and in various industrial processes. Since coal and petroleum often contain sulfur compounds, their combustion generates sulfur dioxide unless the sulfur compounds are removed before burning the fuel...
, nitrogen dioxide
Nitrogen dioxide
Nitrogen dioxide is the chemical compound with the formula it is one of several nitrogen oxides. is an intermediate in the industrial synthesis of nitric acid, millions of tons of which are produced each year. This reddish-brown toxic gas has a characteristic sharp, biting odor and is a prominent...
and carbon monoxide
Carbon monoxide
Carbon monoxide , also called carbonous oxide, is a colorless, odorless, and tasteless gas that is slightly lighter than air. It is highly toxic to humans and animals in higher quantities, although it is also produced in normal animal metabolism in low quantities, and is thought to have some normal...
very low, and particulates
Particulates
Particulates – also known as particulate matter , suspended particulate matter , fine particles, and soot – are tiny subdivisions of solid matter suspended in a gas or liquid. In contrast, aerosol refers to particles and/or liquid droplets and the gas together. Sources of particulate matter can be...
to be low. It is one of the few sites in the United Kingdom for golden hair lichen
Teloschistes
Teloschistes is a genus of lichenized fungi in the family Teloschistaceae.-External links:*...
, a striking bright orange lichen that is very sensitive to air pollution. The climate is relatively mild and, because of the Gulf Stream
Gulf Stream
The Gulf Stream, together with its northern extension towards Europe, the North Atlantic Drift, is a powerful, warm, and swift Atlantic ocean current that originates at the tip of Florida, and follows the eastern coastlines of the United States and Newfoundland before crossing the Atlantic Ocean...
, frosts are rare in winter.
Economy
Sheep have been raised in the Llŷn PeninsulaLlŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
for over a thousand years, and Aberdaron has exported wool for many years. The main product locally was felt
Felt
Felt is a non-woven cloth that is produced by matting, condensing and pressing woollen fibres. While some types of felt are very soft, some are tough enough to form construction materials. Felt can be of any colour, and made into any shape or size....
, produced by soaking the cloth in water and beating it with large wooden paddles until the wool formed a thick mat which could be flattened, dried and cut into lengths. There were two fulling mills
Fulling
Fulling or tucking or walking is a step in woolen clothmaking which involves the cleansing of cloth to eliminate oils, dirt, and other impurities, and making it thicker. The worker who does the job is a fuller, tucker, or walker...
on the Afon Daron, in addition to three corn mills
Gristmill
The terms gristmill or grist mill can refer either to a building in which grain is ground into flour, or to the grinding mechanism itself.- Early history :...
, and lichen
Lichen
Lichens are composite organisms consisting of a symbiotic organism composed of a fungus with a photosynthetic partner , usually either a green alga or cyanobacterium...
was gathered around Y Rhiw, from which a grey dye was extracted. Arable crops consisted mainly of wheat
Wheat
Wheat is a cereal grain, originally from the Levant region of the Near East, but now cultivated worldwide. In 2007 world production of wheat was 607 million tons, making it the third most-produced cereal after maize and rice...
, barley
Barley
Barley is a major cereal grain, a member of the grass family. It serves as a major animal fodder, as a base malt for beer and certain distilled beverages, and as a component of various health foods...
, oats
OATS
OATS - Open Source Assistive Technology Software - is a source code repository or "forge" for assistive technology software. It was launched in 2006 with the goal to provide a one-stop “shop” for end users, clinicians and open-source developers to promote and develop open source assistive...
and potatoes. The field boundaries date back several centuries and are marked by walls, cloddiau and hedgerows; important habitats for a variety of wildlife.
France
The French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France...
unloaded illicit tea and brandy at Aberdaron in 1767, and attempted to sell its cargo to the locals; a Revenue cutter discovered salt being smuggled at Porth Cadlan in 1809; and a schooner on route from Guernsey
Guernsey
Guernsey, officially the Bailiwick of Guernsey is a British Crown dependency in the English Channel off the coast of Normandy.The Bailiwick, as a governing entity, embraces not only all 10 parishes on the Island of Guernsey, but also the islands of Herm, Jethou, Burhou, and Lihou and their islet...
to Scotland
Scotland
Scotland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Occupying the northern third of the island of Great Britain, it shares a border with England to the south and is bounded by the North Sea to the east, the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, and the North Channel and Irish Sea to the...
was reported to have offloaded lace, tea, brandy and gin at Y Rhiw in 1824.
During the 19th century good quality limestone
Limestone
Limestone is a sedimentary rock composed largely of the minerals calcite and aragonite, which are different crystal forms of calcium carbonate . Many limestones are composed from skeletal fragments of marine organisms such as coral or foraminifera....
and a small amount of lead
Lead
Lead is a main-group element in the carbon group with the symbol Pb and atomic number 82. Lead is a soft, malleable poor metal. It is also counted as one of the heavy metals. Metallic lead has a bluish-white color after being freshly cut, but it soon tarnishes to a dull grayish color when exposed...
ore were quarried in the village. Jasper
Jasper
Jasper, a form of chalcedony, is an opaque, impure variety of silica, usually red, yellow, brown or green in color; and rarely blue. This mineral breaks with a smooth surface, and is used for ornamentation or as a gemstone. It can be highly polished and is used for vases, seals, and at one time for...
was mined at Carreg; granite was quarried at Porth y Pistyll; and there was a brickworks at Porth Neigwl. The main source of income, however, was herring fishing
Atlantic herring
Atlantic herring is a fish in the family Clupeidae. It is one of the most abundant fish species on earth. Herring can be found on both sides of the Atlantic Ocean, congregating in large schools. They can grow up to in length and weigh more than...
. A regular shipping service was operated to Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool is a city and metropolitan borough of Merseyside, England, along the eastern side of the Mersey Estuary. It was founded as a borough in 1207 and was granted city status in 1880...
, exporting pigs, poultry and eggs; the vessels returned laden with coal for the neighbourhood. Limestone was also imported and offloaded into the water at high tide, then collected from the beach when the tide went out. Lime was needed to reduce the acidity of the local soil, and lime kilns were built on the beaches at Porthor, Porth Orion, Porth Meudwy, Aberdaron and Y Rhiw to convert the limestone to quicklime. There was shipbuilding at Porth Neigwl, where the last ship, a sloop
Sloop
A sloop is a sail boat with a fore-and-aft rig and a single mast farther forward than the mast of a cutter....
named the Ebenezer, was built in 1841; and at Porthor, which came to an end with the building of a schooner
Schooner
A schooner is a type of sailing vessel characterized by the use of fore-and-aft sails on two or more masts with the forward mast being no taller than the rear masts....
, the Sarah, in 1842. Aberdaron's last ship, the sloop Victory, had been built in 1792, and the last ship to come out of Porth Ysgo had been another sloop, the Grace, in 1778.
Manganese
Manganese is a chemical element, designated by the symbol Mn. It has the atomic number 25. It is found as a free element in nature , and in many minerals...
as a strengthening agent for steel. Ore had been discovered at Y Rhiw in 1827, and the industry became a substantial employer in the village; over 113000 long tons (114,813.7 t) of ore were extracted between 1840 and 1945, and in 1906 the industry employed 200 people.
Tourism began to develop after 1918. The first tourist guide to the village was published in 1910 and extolled the virtues of "the salubrious sea and mountain breezes"; in addition to the two hotels in the village, local farmhouses took in visitors, which provided an extra source of income.
At the 2001 census, 59.4 per cent of the population were in employment, and 23.5 per cent were self employed; the unemployment rate was 2.3 per cent; and 16.0 per cent were retired. Of those employed, 17.7 per cent worked in agriculture; 15.8 per cent in the wholesale and retail trades; 10.7 per cent in construction; and 10.5 per cent in education. Those working from home amounted to 32.3 per cent; 15.2 per cent travelled less than 6.2 miles (10 km) to their place of work; and 23.6 per cent travelled more than 25 miles (40 km). The community is included in Pwllheli and Llŷn Regeneration Area and was identified in the Welsh Index of Multiple Deprivation 2005 as the electoral division in Gwynedd
Gwynedd
Gwynedd is a county in north-west Wales, named after the old Kingdom of Gwynedd. Although the second biggest in terms of geographical area, it is also one of the most sparsely populated...
with least access to services; and was ranked 13th in Wales. An agricultural census in 2000 recorded 33,562 sheep, 4,380 calves, 881 beef cattle, 607 dairy cattle, and 18 pigs; there were 310 acres (125.5 ha) of growing crops.
Demography
Aberdaron had a population of 1,019 in 2001, of which 20.6 per cent were below the age of 16, and 18.7 per cent were over 64 years of age. Owner occupiers inhabited 53.7 per cent of the dwellings; and 21.7 per cent were rented; 19.6 per cent were holiday homes. Central heating was installed in 62.8 per cent of dwellings; but 2.4 per cent were without sole use of a bath, shower or toilet. The proportion of households without use of a vehicle was 14.3 per cent; but 40.9 per cent had two or more. The population was predominantly white British; 97.8 per cent identified themselves as such; 71.9 per cent were born in Wales; and 26.9 per cent in England.| Population change in Aberdaron | ||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Year | 1801 | 1811 | 1821 | 1831 | 1841 | 1851 | 1861 | 1871 | 1881 | 1891 |
| Aberdaron | 1,141 | 1,442 | 1,234 | 1,389 | 1,350 | 1,239 | 1,266 | 1,247 | 1,202 | 1,170 |
| Bardsey Island | 71 | 86 | 84 | 90 | 92 | 81 | 84 | 132 | 77 | |
| Bodferin | 58 | 87 | 61 | 56 | 64 | 57 | 50 | 62 | 42 | 45 |
| Llanfaelrhys | 224 | 246 | 262 | 258 | 236 | 255 | 208 | 198 | 186 | 490 |
| Y Rhiw | 282 | 318 | 380 | 358 | 378 | 376 | 370 | 340 | 350 | |
| Total | 1,705 | 2,164 | 2,023 | 2,145 | 2,118 | 2,019 | 1,975 | 1,931 | 1,912 | 1,782 |
| Year | 1901 | 1911 | 1921 | 1931 | 1951 | 1961 | 2001 | |||
| Aberdaron | 1,119 | 1,106 | 1,075 | 983 | 1,275 | 1,161 | 1,019 | |||
| Bardsey Island | 124 | 53 | 58 | 54 | 14 | 17 | ||||
| Bodferin | 49 | 43 | 43 | 36 | ||||||
| Llanfaelrhys | 499 | 495 | 449 | 385 | ||||||
| Y Rhiw | ||||||||||
| Total | 1,791 | 1,697 | 1,625 | 1,458 | 1,289 | 1,178 | 1,019 | |||
Aberdaron
Clough Williams-Ellis
Sir Bertram Clough Williams-Ellis, CBE, MC was an English-born Welsh architect known chiefly as creator of the Italianate village of Portmeirion in North Wales.-Origins, education and early career:...
.
Y Gegin Fawr (The Big Kitchen) was built in the 13th century as a communal kitchen where pilgrims could claim a meal on their way to Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
. Aberdaron was the last place on the route for rest and refreshment and pilgrims often had to wait weeks in the village for a chance to cross the treacherous waters of Bardsey Sound .
Next to the car park is a field, Cae y Grogbren (Gallows Field), near which is a large red rock. In the Middle Ages, the abbot from the monastery on Bardsey Island visited the rock to dispense justice to local criminals; if they were found guilty, the wrongdoer would be hanged and thrown into Pwll Ddiwaelod (The Bottomless Pool). The pool is a kettle lake, formed at the end of the Ice Age
Ice age
An ice age or, more precisely, glacial age, is a generic geological period of long-term reduction in the temperature of the Earth's surface and atmosphere, resulting in the presence or expansion of continental ice sheets, polar ice sheets and alpine glaciers...
, when blocks of ice were trapped underground and melted to form round, deep pools.
Above the village, on the Afon Daron, stands Bodwrdda, an early 16th-century stone-built house, which had a fulling
Fulling
Fulling or tucking or walking is a step in woolen clothmaking which involves the cleansing of cloth to eliminate oils, dirt, and other impurities, and making it thicker. The worker who does the job is a fuller, tucker, or walker...
mill adjacent; two large brick-built wings were added later, giving an imposing three-storey facade containing with 17th century windows. To the south, Penrhyn Mawr is a substantial late 18th century gable-fronted farmhouse.
Bardsey Island
Bardsey IslandBardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
, 1.9 miles (3.1 km) off the mainland, was inhabited in Neolithic
Neolithic
The Neolithic Age, Era, or Period, or New Stone Age, was a period in the development of human technology, beginning about 9500 BC in some parts of the Middle East, and later in other parts of the world. It is traditionally considered as the last part of the Stone Age...
times, and traces of hut circles remain. During the 5th century the island became a refuge for persecuted Christians, and a small Celtic
Celtic Christianity
Celtic Christianity or Insular Christianity refers broadly to certain features of Christianity that were common, or held to be common, across the Celtic-speaking world during the Early Middle Ages...
monastery existed. Saint Cadfan
Saint Cadfan
Saint Cadfan, ; , Abbot of Tywyn and Bardsey was a Breton Saint who lived in 6th century Wales. A Breton nobleman, he was the son of Eneas Ledewig , and Gwen Teirbron, a daughter of Budic II, a King of Brittany.- Associations & Legacy :...
arrived from Brittany
Brittany
Brittany is a cultural and administrative region in the north-west of France. Previously a kingdom and then a duchy, Brittany was united to the Kingdom of France in 1532 as a province. Brittany has also been referred to as Less, Lesser or Little Britain...
in 516 and, under his guidance St Mary's Abbey was built. For centuries the island was important as "the holy place of burial for all the bravest and best in the land". Bards called it "the land of indulgences, absolution and pardon, the road to Heaven, and the gate to Paradise"; and in medieval times three pilgrimages to Bardsey Island were considered to be of equivalent benefit to the soul as one to Rome. In 1188 the abbey was still a Celtic institution, but by 1212 it belonged to the Augustinians. Many people still walk to Aberdaron and Uwchmynydd each year in the footsteps of the saints, although today only ruins of the old abbey's 13th-century bell tower remain. A Celtic cross
Celtic cross
A Celtic cross is a symbol that combines a cross with a ring surrounding the intersection. In the Celtic Christian world it was combined with the Christian cross and this design was often used for high crosses – a free-standing cross made of stone and often richly decorated...
amidst the ruins commemorates the 20,000 saints reputed to be buried on the island.
The island was declared a National Nature Reserve
National Nature Reserve
For details of National nature reserves in the United Kingdom see:*National Nature Reserves in England*National Nature Reserves in Northern Ireland*National Nature Reserves in Scotland*National Nature Reserves in Wales...
in 1986, and is part of Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island Special Protection Area . It is now a favourite bird-watching location, on the migration routes of thousands of birds. Bardsey Bird and Field Observatory , founded in 1953, nets and rings 8,000 birds each year to understand their migration patterns.
Church in Wales
The Church in Wales is the Anglican church in Wales, composed of six dioceses.As with the primus of the Scottish Episcopal Church, the Archbishop of Wales serves concurrently as one of the six diocesan bishops. The current archbishop is Barry Morgan, the Bishop of Llandaff.In contrast to the...
and many Welsh academics and public figures. The trust is financed through membership subscriptions, grants and donations, and is dedicated to protecting the wildlife, buildings and archaeological sites of the island; promoting its artistic and cultural life; and encouraging people to visit as a place of natural beauty and pilgrimage. When, in 2000, the trust advertised for a tenant for the 440 acres (178.1 ha) sheep farm on the island, they had 1,100 applications. The tenancy is now held by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds
Royal Society for the Protection of Birds
Bird Notes and News was first published in April 1903.The title changed to 'Bird Notes' in 1947. In the 1950s, there were four copies per year . Each volume covered two years, spread over three calendar years...
; and the land is managed to maintain the natural habitat. Oats
OATS
OATS - Open Source Assistive Technology Software - is a source code repository or "forge" for assistive technology software. It was launched in 2006 with the goal to provide a one-stop “shop” for end users, clinicians and open-source developers to promote and develop open source assistive...
, turnips and swedes
Rutabaga
The rutabaga, swede , turnip or yellow turnip is a root vegetable that originated as a cross between the cabbage and the turnip; see Triangle of U...
are grown; goats, ducks, geese and chickens kept; and there is a mixed flock of sheep
Domestic sheep
Sheep are quadrupedal, ruminant mammals typically kept as livestock. Like all ruminants, sheep are members of the order Artiodactyla, the even-toed ungulates. Although the name "sheep" applies to many species in the genus Ovis, in everyday usage it almost always refers to Ovis aries...
and Welsh black cattle
Welsh Black
The Welsh Black is a dual-purpose breed of cattle native to Wales.-History:Commercial exploitation of the breed meant that drovers would herd them to English markets. Herds from south west Wales travelled towards Hereford and Gloucester up the Tywi Valley to Llandovery. Herds from South...
.
Llanfaelrhys
Porth Ysgo, owned by the National TrustNational Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty
The National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty, usually known as the National Trust, is a conservation organisation in England, Wales and Northern Ireland...
, is reached by a steep slope from Llanfaelrhys
Llanfaelrhys
Llanfaelrhys is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd, located on the Llŷn Peninsula. The parish was abolished in 1934 and incorporated into Aberdaron.-External links:...
, 3.3 miles (5.3 km) east of Aberdaron, past a disused manganese mine in Nant y Gadwen; the mine closed in 1927, and produced 45644 long tons (46,376.6 t) in its lifetime. Where the path from Ysgo reaches the beach, a waterfall, Pistyll y Gaseg, tumbles over the cliff. At the eastern end of the bay is Porth Alwm, where the stream from Nant y Gadwen flows into the sea. The south-facing beach is composed of fine, firm sand.
To the west, King Arthur
King Arthur
King Arthur is a legendary British leader of the late 5th and early 6th centuries, who, according to Medieval histories and romances, led the defence of Britain against Saxon invaders in the early 6th century. The details of Arthur's story are mainly composed of folklore and literary invention, and...
's last battle against his arch enemy, Mordred
Mordred
Mordred or Modred is a character in the Arthurian legend, known as a notorious traitor who fought King Arthur at the Battle of Camlann, where he was killed and Arthur fatally wounded. Tradition varies on his relationship to Arthur, but he is best known today as Arthur's illegitimate son by his...
, was supposedly fought in the fields around Porth Cadlan. Offshore lies a rock, Maen Gwenonwy, named after Arthur's sister.
Lladron Maelrhys are two large stones on the border between Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw. It is claimed that, years ago, thieves broke into St Maelrhys Church, intent on stealing money. Caught in the act, they fled for their lives but were caught as they approached Y Rhiw, and killed on the spot; the stones mark their burial place. Another version claims that as they crossed the parish boundary they were turned to stone for their sacrilege.
Porthor
Cove
A cove is a small type of bay or coastal inlet. They usually have narrow, restricted entrances, are often circular or oval, and are often inside a larger bay. Small, narrow, sheltered bays, inlets, creeks, or recesses in a coast are often considered coves...
3.2 miles (5.1 km) north of Aberdaron that has smooth white sand; when dry, the sand whistles, or squeaks, underfoot. The crescent-shaped beach is backed by steep cliffs of relatively hard rock, from which the cove has been sculpted by the rough seas. The bay is the centre of a National Trust
National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty
The National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty, usually known as the National Trust, is a conservation organisation in England, Wales and Northern Ireland...
estate which consists of 420 acres (170 ha) of shoreline, headland and farmland, and includes Mynydd Carreg and Mynydd Anelog.
On the hill summits that dot the headlands are heather
Calluna
Calluna vulgaris is the sole species in the genus Calluna in the family Ericaceae. It is a low-growing perennial shrub growing to tall, or rarely to and taller, and is found widely in Europe and Asia Minor on acidic soils in open sunny situations and in moderate shade...
and gorse, shaped by the prevailing wind; thrift
Armeria maritima
Armeria maritima is the botanical name for a species of flowering plant.It is a popular garden flower, known by several common names, including thrift, sea thrift, and sea pink. The plant has been distributed worldwide as a garden and cut flower...
and wild thyme thrive on the acidic soil. The cliffs are a stronghold of the chough
Red-billed Chough
The Red-billed Chough or Chough , Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax, is a bird in the crow family; it is one of only two species in the genus Pyrrhocorax...
, and a nesting place for razorbills and guillemots
Common Guillemot
The Common Murre or Common Guillemot is a large auk. It is also known as the Thin-billed Murre in North America. It has a circumpolar distribution, occurring in low-Arctic and boreal waters in the North-Atlantic and North Pacific...
. On the lower rocks, in reach of the waves, are plentiful lichens, seaweeds, sponges, limpets and barnacles.
Iron Age
The Iron Age is the archaeological period generally occurring after the Bronze Age, marked by the prevalent use of iron. The early period of the age is characterized by the widespread use of iron or steel. The adoption of such material coincided with other changes in society, including differing...
. Kittiwakes
Black-legged Kittiwake
The Black-legged Kittiwake is a seabird species in the gull family Laridae.This species was first described by Linnaeus in his Systema naturae in 1758 as Larus tridactylus....
, cormorants
Great Cormorant
The Great Cormorant , known as the Great Black Cormorant across the Northern Hemisphere, the Black Cormorant in Australia and the Black Shag further south in New Zealand, is a widespread member of the cormorant family of seabirds...
and shags can be seen on the cliffs, while farm birds such as the yellowhammer
Yellowhammer
The Yellowhammer, Emberiza citrinella, is a passerine bird in the bunting family Emberizidae. It is common in all sorts of open areas with some scrub or trees and form small flocks in winter....
frequent the gorse. On Mynydd Anelog, experimental plots have been marked out to monitor different methods of managing heather to discover the best way the habitat can be conserved for the future.
North of Porthor is Porth Iago, a south-facing narrow inlet and rocky cove, which has a small beach and steep cliffs.
Rhoshirwaun
Rhoshirwaun lies 2.1 miles (3.4 km) to the north east of Aberdaron, and was formerly a marshMarsh
In geography, a marsh, or morass, is a type of wetland that is subject to frequent or continuous flood. Typically the water is shallow and features grasses, rushes, reeds, typhas, sedges, other herbaceous plants, and moss....
y area. It provided fuel from peat cuttings, pasture for animals and accommodated squatters, mainly fishermen, who had encroached on the common with the tacit acceptance of the community. An inclosure act was drawn up in 1802, designed to remove all squatters who had been there less than 20 years. Resistance to the evictions was fierce and was only suppressed by a contingent of dragoons. The act was finally applied in 1814; new roads were built across the moor; boundaries were established; allotments allocated; and wetland reclaimed.
Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum, is one of Europe's earliest Iron Age Settlements, standing 480 feet (146.3 m) above sea level. The hillfort
Hillforts in Britain
Hillforts in Britain refers to the various hillforts within the island of Great Britain. Although the earliest such constructs fitting this description come from the Neolithic period, with a few also dating to the later Bronze Age, British hill forts were primarily constructed during the Iron Age...
, 165 feet (50.3 m) in diameter, has visible traces of eight circular huts; pottery found on the site dates from 425 BC. Legend has it that a giant, Odo Gawr, is buried under a cairn of stones on the summit; nearby is a huge rock known as Carreg Samson, supposedly thrown from Uwchmynydd by Samson
Samson
Samson, Shimshon ; Shamshoun or Sampson is the third to last of the Judges of the ancient Israelites mentioned in the Tanakh ....
. The holes in the rock are said to be the imprint of his fingers; a pot of gold reputedly lies underneath.
To the east of the village, Felin Uchaf is an educational centre exploring ways of living and working in partnership with the environment. Developed on a redundant farm, it provides residential courses in rural skills and sustainable agriculture. A traditional Iron Age
Iron Age
The Iron Age is the archaeological period generally occurring after the Bronze Age, marked by the prevalent use of iron. The early period of the age is characterized by the widespread use of iron or steel. The adoption of such material coincided with other changes in society, including differing...
roundhouse has been built on the site.
Uwchmynydd
Uwchmynydd, 1.8 miles (2.9 km) to the south west of Aberdaron, has a long history of human settlement. MesolithicMesolithic
The Mesolithic is an archaeological concept used to refer to certain groups of archaeological cultures defined as falling between the Paleolithic and the Neolithic....
flints have been found in the area, and a Neolithic stone axe was discovered on Mynydd Mawr. Hut circles are visible on the summits, and part of a Roman
Ancient Rome
Ancient Rome was a thriving civilization that grew on the Italian Peninsula as early as the 8th century BC. Located along the Mediterranean Sea and centered on the city of Rome, it expanded to one of the largest empires in the ancient world....
anchor was recovered off Trwyn Bychestyn.
At Mynydd Mawr the picnic site
Picnic
In contemporary usage, a picnic can be defined simply as a pleasure excursion at which a meal is eaten outdoors , ideally taking place in a beautiful landscape such as a park, beside a lake or with an interesting view and possibly at a public event such as before an open air theatre performance,...
has views which, on a fine day, take in Cardigan Bay
Cardigan Bay
Cardigan Bay is a large inlet of the Irish Sea, indenting the west coast of Wales between Bardsey Island, Gwynedd in the north, and Strumble Head, Pembrokeshire at its southern end. It is the largest bay in Wales....
, Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
and the Wicklow Mountains
Wicklow Mountains
The Wicklow Mountains form the largest continuous upland area in Ireland. They occupy the whole centre of County Wicklow and stretch outside its borders into Counties Carlow, Wexford and Dublin. Where the mountains extend into County Dublin, they are known locally as the Dublin Mountains...
; at night, South Stack Lighthouse
South Stack
South Stack is an island situated just off Holy Island on the North West coast of Anglesey. It is famous as the location of one of Wales' most spectacular lighthouses.-South Stack Lighthouse:...
is visible in the distance. A road to the summit, owned by the National Trust
National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty
The National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty, usually known as the National Trust, is a conservation organisation in England, Wales and Northern Ireland...
, was built during the Second World War to provide access to the heights, where men were posted to give early warning to Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool is a city and metropolitan borough of Merseyside, England, along the eastern side of the Mersey Estuary. It was founded as a borough in 1207 and was granted city status in 1880...
of Luftwaffe air raids. The former Coastguard
Her Majesty's Coastguard
Her Majesty's Coastguard is the service of the government of the United Kingdom concerned with co-ordinating air-sea rescue.HM Coastguard is a section of the Maritime and Coastguard Agency responsible for the initiation and co-ordination of all civilian maritime Search and Rescue within the UK...
lookout point, manned for almost 80 years before becoming redundant in 1990, provides views over Bardsey Sound to the island. The hut contains an exhibition to the natural history of the area, and a mural created by local children.
The headland at Braich y Pwll is the only known location on the British mainland of the spotted rock rose
Tuberaria guttata
Tuberaria guttata, the spotted rockrose, is a common plant of the Mediterranean region which also occurs very locally in Wales and Ireland. The flowers are very variable with the characteristic spot at the base of the petal very variable in size and intensity of colour.The plant typically grows in...
, which produces bright yellow petals that last only one day. The coast here has open grass heath land and mountain, giving way to rugged sea cliffs and coves. There is a profusion of wildlife, and it is an ideal vantage point to watch the spring and autumn bird migrations. Chough
Red-billed Chough
The Red-billed Chough or Chough , Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax, is a bird in the crow family; it is one of only two species in the genus Pyrrhocorax...
s, peregrine falcon
Peregrine Falcon
The Peregrine Falcon , also known as the Peregrine, and historically as the Duck Hawk in North America, is a widespread bird of prey in the family Falconidae. A large, crow-sized falcon, it has a blue-gray back, barred white underparts, and a black head and "moustache"...
s, kestrels
Common Kestrel
The Common Kestrel is a bird of prey species belonging to the kestrel group of the falcon family Falconidae. It is also known as the European Kestrel, Eurasian Kestrel, or Old World Kestrel. In Britain, where no other brown falcon occurs, it is generally just called "the kestrel".This species...
, puffins
Atlantic Puffin
The Atlantic Puffin is a seabird species in the auk family. It is a pelagic bird that feeds primarily by diving for fish, but also eats other sea creatures, such as squid and crustaceans. Its most obvious characteristic during the breeding season is its brightly coloured bill...
, stonechats
European Stonechat
The European Stonechat is a small passerine bird that was formerly classed as a subspecies of the Common Stonechat. Long considered a member of the thrush family Turdidae, genetic evidence has placed it and its relatives in the Old World flycatcher family Muscicapidae.It is 11.5–13 cm long and...
, guillemots
Common Guillemot
The Common Murre or Common Guillemot is a large auk. It is also known as the Thin-billed Murre in North America. It has a circumpolar distribution, occurring in low-Arctic and boreal waters in the North-Atlantic and North Pacific...
and Manx shearwater
Manx Shearwater
The Manx Shearwater is a medium-sized shearwater in the seabird family Procellariidae. The scientific name of this species records a name shift: Manx Shearwaters were called Manks Puffins in the 17th century. Puffin is an Anglo-Norman word for the cured carcasses of nestling shearwaters...
s can be seen, and dolphins, porpoises and seals can be spotted in the water.
Above the sea cliffs are the remains of Capel Mair (St Mary's Chapel), where it was customary for pilgrims to invoke the protection of the Virgin Mary before making the dangerous crossing to Bardsey Island. At the foot of Mynydd Mawr is Ffynnon Fair (St Mary's Well), the last stop for pilgrims crossing to the island; the well is a freshwater spring which is covered twice daily by the sea, emerging from the ebbing tide with crystal clear water.
Cwrt (Court), now a large farm, was the administrative centre of Bardsey Abbey's mainland estates, and was known as the "Court of Bardsey". The steepest cliffs in the Llŷn Peninsula
Llŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
are at Y Parwyd, the scene of a local ghost story. In 1794 a newly married couple moved into a cottage nearby. Within a few years they were disturbed by a phantom, but when they read a verse from the Bible, the phantom would retreat towards Y Parwyd and hover over the cliff edge before disappearing; the couple finally moved to Bodferin
Bodferin
Bodferin is a former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. It was abolished in 1934, and incorporated into Aberdaron....
. In 1801 a ship pilot was put ashore on the rocks below the cliffs. Although very drunk, he managed to climb the cliff face and, reaching the top, fell asleep in a sheep pen. In the early morning, he awoke and, still drunk, headed for home; he walked in the wrong direction, however, and disappeared over the cliff edge into the sea.
The traditional embarkation point for pilgrims crossing to Bardsey Island was at Porth Meudwy (Hermit's Cove), now a lobster fishing
Lobster fishing
Lobster fishing, sometimes called lobstering, is the commercial or recreational harvesting of marine lobsters, spiny lobsters or crayfish.-Lobster tools and technology:...
cove. Further south is Porth y Pistyll, which has good views of Ynysoedd Gwylanod, home to puffin and guillemot colonies; and Pen y Cil, where the Precambrian
Precambrian
The Precambrian is the name which describes the large span of time in Earth's history before the current Phanerozoic Eon, and is a Supereon divided into several eons of the geologic time scale...
pillow lavas are exposed, revealing how they have been contorted over time.
Y Rhiw
The mountain-top hamlet of Y Rhiw is 3.9 miles (6.3 km) to the east. There are fine views of Llŷn
Llŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
towards Snowdonia
Snowdonia
Snowdonia is a region in north Wales and a national park of in area. It was the first to be designated of the three National Parks in Wales, in 1951.-Name and extent:...
. On the slopes of Mynydd Rhiw is a late Stone Age
Stone Age
The Stone Age is a broad prehistoric period, lasting about 2.5 million years , during which humans and their predecessor species in the genus Homo, as well as the earlier partly contemporary genera Australopithecus and Paranthropus, widely used exclusively stone as their hard material in the...
burial chamber, and Neolithic quarries. Nearby on Mynydd y Graig are three hillforts
Hillforts in Britain
Hillforts in Britain refers to the various hillforts within the island of Great Britain. Although the earliest such constructs fitting this description come from the Neolithic period, with a few also dating to the later Bronze Age, British hill forts were primarily constructed during the Iron Age...
, several hut circles and terraced fields that are thought to date from the late Iron Age
Iron Age
The Iron Age is the archaeological period generally occurring after the Bronze Age, marked by the prevalent use of iron. The early period of the age is characterized by the widespread use of iron or steel. The adoption of such material coincided with other changes in society, including differing...
; in 1955 a Bronze Age
Bronze Age
The Bronze Age is a period characterized by the use of copper and its alloy bronze as the chief hard materials in the manufacture of some implements and weapons. Chronologically, it stands between the Stone Age and Iron Age...
cinerary urn was uncovered in the village.
Plas yn Rhiw, owned by the National Trust
National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty
The National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty, usually known as the National Trust, is a conservation organisation in England, Wales and Northern Ireland...
, is an early 17th-century house that was restored by the Keating sisters in 1939, with advice from Clough Williams-Ellis
Clough Williams-Ellis
Sir Bertram Clough Williams-Ellis, CBE, MC was an English-born Welsh architect known chiefly as creator of the Italianate village of Portmeirion in North Wales.-Origins, education and early career:...
. It is believed that the house is on or near the site of an earlier defended house, built by Meirion Goch in the 10th century to prevent incursions by Vikings into Porth Neigwl.
Transport
Aberdaron lies at the western end of the B4413 roadB roads in Zone 4 of the Great Britain numbering scheme
B roads are numbered routes in Great Britain of lesser importance than A roads. See the article Great Britain road numbering scheme for the rationale behind the numbers allocated.-3 digits:-4 digits :-4 digits :-4 digits :...
. The road runs east to Llanbedrog
Llanbedrog
Llanbedrog is a village and community on the Llŷn peninsula of Gwynedd in Wales. It is situated on the south side of the peninsula on the A499 between Pwllheli and Abersoch. Formerly in the county of Caernarfonshire, it has a population of 1,020....
, where it connects with the A499 Pwllheli
Pwllheli
Pwllheli is a community and the main market town of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, north-western Wales. It has a population of 3,861, of which a large proportion, 81 per cent, are Welsh speaking. Pwllheli is the place where Plaid Cymru was founded. It is the birthplace of Albert Evans-Jones -...
to Abersoch
Abersoch
Abersoch is a large village in the community of Llanengan in Gwynedd, Wales. It is a popular coastal seaside resort with approximately 1,000 inhabitants, on the east-facing south coast of the Llŷn Peninsula at the southern terminus of the A499. It is about south-west of Pwllheli and south-west of...
road.
Buses are provided by two companies. Service 17 is operated by Nefyn Coaches, with six Monday to Saturday return journeys on the Pwllheli–Llanbedrog–Mynytho
Mynytho
Mynytho is a small village in the parish of Llangian near the southern coast of the Llŷn Peninsula in north-west Wales. It consists of only a few houses, beautiful scenery and some farmland...
–Nanhoron–Botwnnog
Botwnnog
Botwnnog is a village and community in Gwynedd in Wales, located on the Llŷn Peninsula. It has a population of 955.It lies between Mynytho and Sarn Meyllteyrn, and is the home to two schools, a primary Pont Y Gof Primary School, and secondary . It also has the main branch of general practician ...
–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Penygroeslon–Rhoshirwaun–Aberdaron route. Two of the Aberdaron bound journeys divert through Bryn-croes. Arriva Buses Wales
Arriva Buses Wales
Arriva Buses Wales is a division of Arriva that operates bus services in north Wales. It has its origins in the former Crosville Motor Services. Arriva Buses Wales has approximately 700 employees. The company's official name is Arriva Cymru Ltd.-History:...
provide a late night return journey on Saturdays. Service 17 is supplemented by Nefyn Coaches service 17b, running return journeys twice a day, Monday to Saturday, largely over the same route, but with diversions to serve Penllech
Penllech
Penllech is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The parish was abolished in 1934, and incorporated into Tudweiliog....
and Llangwnnad towards Aberdaron, or Penycaerau and Y Rhiw heading back to Pwllheli.
The irregular Nefyn Coaches service 8b has an early morning weekday Nefyn
Nefyn
Nefyn is a small town and community on the north west coast of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, Wales, with a population of 2,619. Welsh is the first language of almost 80% of its inhabitants. The A497 road terminates in the town centre.-History:...
–Tudweiliog
Tudweiliog
Tudweiliog is a small, predominantly Welsh speaking village and community on the northern coast of the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd...
–Llangwnnadl
Llangwnnadl
Llangwnnadl is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The parish was abolished in 1934, and incorporated into Tudweiliog....
–Penygroeslon–Rhydlios bus, which operates only during school holidays. On Wednesdays throughout the year, a return journey runs the Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd–Aberdaron–Penycaerau–Y Rhiw–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedrog–Pwllheli route. On other weekdays a Nefyn–Tudweiliog–Llangwnnadl–Penygroeslon–Aberdaron–Uwchmynydd bus runs. On Wednesdays during school terms, an afternoon journey runs on the Y Rhiw–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedgrog–Pwllheli route. At weekends, a Saturday morning bus operates Nefyn–Dinas–Rhos-ddu–Brynmawr–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Pant–Uwchmynydd. This then makes a journey through the heart of Llŷn on the Uwchmynydd–Porth Or–Rhydlios–Pant–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Brynmawr–Rhos-ddu–Dinas–Llaniestyn–Garnfadryn–Rhyd-y-clafdy–Efailnewydd
Efailnewydd
Efailnewydd is a village on the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. It lies 1.2 miles north west to the market town of Pwllheli. The village forms part of the community of Llannor along with the villages of Abererch and Rhos-fawr.Pwllheli Rugby Club's playing field and clubhouse are...
–Pwllheli route, returning in the afternoon. It completes the day retracing its steps over the Uwchmynydd–Pant–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Brynmawr–Rhos-ddu–Dinas–Nefyn route.
On weekdays other than Wednesdays, Nefyn Coaches service 334 runs a morning Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd–Aberdaron–Penygroeslon–Llangwnnadl–Tudweiliog–Nefyn route. A second journey at midday operates from Uwchmynydd over the same route to Nefyn, and on to Pwllheli. Each weekday, an early evening bus runs the Penygroeslon–Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd route, while on Wednesdays during school holidays an afternoon Rhydlios–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedrog–Pwllheli bus runs.
Bardsey Boat Trips operates passenger ferries between Porth Meudwy and Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
. These are supplemented by Enlli Charters, who sail between Pwllheli and the island.
The nearest railway station is at Pwllheli, 14.8 miles (23.8 km) to the east, on the Cambrian Coast Line to Machynlleth
Machynlleth
Machynlleth is a market town in Powys, Wales. It is in the Dyfi Valley at the intersection of the A487 and the A489 roads.Machynlleth was the seat of Owain Glyndŵr's Welsh Parliament in 1404, and as such claims to be the "ancient capital of Wales". However, it has never held any official...
. Services are provided by Arriva Trains Wales
Arriva Trains Wales
Arriva Trains Wales is a train operating company, owned by Arriva, that operates urban and inter urban passenger services in Wales and the Welsh Marches...
, with some trains continuing to Shrewsbury
Shrewsbury
Shrewsbury is the county town of Shropshire, in the West Midlands region of England. Lying on the River Severn, it is a civil parish home to some 70,000 inhabitants, and is the primary settlement and headquarters of Shropshire Council...
and Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham is a city and metropolitan borough in the West Midlands of England. It is the most populous British city outside the capital London, with a population of 1,036,900 , and lies at the heart of the West Midlands conurbation, the second most populous urban area in the United Kingdom with a...
.
Public services
Water and sanitation are provided by Dŵr CymruWelsh Water
Dŵr Cymru Welsh Water is a company which supplies drinking water and wastewater services to most of Wales and parts of western England.It is regulated under the Water Industry Act 1991.-History:...
(Welsh Water), owned by Glas Cymru, a company limited by guarantee
Company limited by guarantee
In British and Irish company law, a private company limited by guarantee is an alternative type of corporation used primarily for non-profit organisations that require legal personality. A guarantee company does not usually have a share capital or shareholders, but instead has members who act as...
. The electricity distribution company
Distribution Network Operator
Distribution network operators are companies licensed to distribute electricity in Great Britain by the Office of Gas and Electricity Markets....
is Scottish Power
Scottish Power
ScottishPower Ltd. is a vertically integrated energy company with its headquarters in Glasgow, Scotland. It was listed on the London Stock Exchange and was once a constituent of the FTSE 100 Index but in 2006 it became a subsidiary of the Spanish utility Iberdrola...
, a subsidiary of the Basque
Basque Country (autonomous community)
The Basque Country is an autonomous community of northern Spain. It includes the Basque provinces of Álava, Biscay and Gipuzkoa, also called Historical Territories....
utility Iberdrola
Iberdrola
Iberdrola , headquartered in Bilbao, is a private utility with a global footprint and over 150 years of experience...
.
Welsh Ambulance Services
Welsh Ambulance Services NHS Trust
The Welsh Ambulance Services NHS Trust is an NHS trust which manages all ambulance services for the National Health Service in Wales. The trust has its headquarters in H.M. Stanley Hospital, St Asaph, Denbighshire....
provide ambulance and paramedic services; and North West Wales NHS Trust is responsible for hospital services. The nearest community hospital is Ysbyty Bryn Beryl at Pwllheli
Pwllheli
Pwllheli is a community and the main market town of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, north-western Wales. It has a population of 3,861, of which a large proportion, 81 per cent, are Welsh speaking. Pwllheli is the place where Plaid Cymru was founded. It is the birthplace of Albert Evans-Jones -...
; for 24-hour accident and emergency services the nearest provision is at Ysbyty Gwynedd in Bangor
Bangor, Gwynedd
Bangor is a city in Gwynedd, north west Wales, and one of the smallest cities in Britain. It is a university city with a population of 13,725 at the 2001 census, not including around 10,000 students at Bangor University. Including nearby Menai Bridge on Anglesey, which does not however form part of...
. The general provision of health services is the responsibility of Gwynedd Local Health Board .
Law enforcement is the responsibility of North Wales Police
North Wales Police
North Wales Police is the territorial police force responsible for policing North Wales. The headquarters are in Colwyn Bay, with divisional headquarters in St Asaph, Caernarfon and Wrexham....
, formed in 1967 as Gwynedd Constabulary. North Wales Fire and Rescue Service
North Wales Fire and Rescue Service
The North Wales Fire and Rescue Service is the fire and rescue service covering the predominantly rural principal areas of Anglesey, Conwy, Denbighshire, Flintshire, Gwynedd and Wrexham in the north of Wales....
was created in 1996 by the merger of the Gwynedd
Gwynedd
Gwynedd is a county in north-west Wales, named after the old Kingdom of Gwynedd. Although the second biggest in terms of geographical area, it is also one of the most sparsely populated...
and Clwyd
Clwyd
Clwyd is a preserved county of Wales, situated in the north-east, bordering England with Cheshire to its east, Shropshire to the south-east, and the Welsh counties of Gwynedd to its immediate west and Powys to the south. It additionally shares a maritime border with the metropolitan county of...
fire brigades; it provides public protection services, operating out of the fire station at Abersoch
Abersoch
Abersoch is a large village in the community of Llanengan in Gwynedd, Wales. It is a popular coastal seaside resort with approximately 1,000 inhabitants, on the east-facing south coast of the Llŷn Peninsula at the southern terminus of the A499. It is about south-west of Pwllheli and south-west of...
.
Education
In the early 19th century there was a school for poor children, which moved in a four year cycle between Aberdaron, LlanfaelrhysLlanfaelrhys
Llanfaelrhys is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd, located on the Llŷn Peninsula. The parish was abolished in 1934 and incorporated into Aberdaron.-External links:...
, Bryncroes
Bryncroes
Bryncroes is a hamlet and former civil parish in Gwynedd in Wales, and lies on the Llŷn Peninsula approximately 2 km west of Sarn Mellteyrn. The parish was abolished in 1934 and divided between Botwnnog and Aberdaron. The village was the scene of fierce protests between 1969 and 1972 when it...
and Y Rhiw. The Elementary Education Act 1870
Elementary Education Act 1870
The Elementary Education Act 1870, commonly known as Forster's Education Act, set the framework for schooling of all children between ages 5 and 12 in England and Wales...
provided for local school boards, but was opposed by the established church. The process of establishing boards was lengthy, and the government had to enforce the regulations in Aberdaron, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw; the national school
National school (England and Wales)
A national school was a school founded in 19th century England and Wales by the National Society for Promoting Religious Education.These schools provided elementary education, in accordance with the teaching of the Church of England, to the children of the poor.Together with the less numerous...
opened at Y Rhiw in 1877 and had 74 pupils on its register; it closed in 1965.
Primary education
Primary Education in Wales
Primary Education in Wales has a similar structure to Primary Education in England, but teaching of the Welsh language is compulsory and it is used as the medium of instruction in many schools...
is now provided by Ysgol Crud y Werin in Aberdaron, which has 54 pupils, and by Ysgol Llidiardau in Rhoshirwaun, established in 1880, which has 21 pupils. At the last inspection of Ysgol Crud y Werin, by Estyn
Estyn
Estyn is the education and training inspectorate for Wales. Its name comes from the Welsh language verb meaning "to extend". Its mission is to achieve excellence for all in learning in Wales by providing an independent, high quality inspection and advice service to the Welsh Assembly Government and...
in 2008, there were no pupils entitled to free school meals, and 84 per cent came from homes where Welsh was the main spoken language; Welsh is the main medium of teaching. Ysgol Llidiardau was last inspected in 2009; 18 per cent of pupils were entitled to free school meals and 36 per cent came from homes where Welsh was the predominant language. Secondary school pupils mainly attend Ysgol Botwnnog.
Culture
Aberdaron is a predominantly Welsh-speaking community; 75.2 per cent of the population speak the language. A mobile library visits a number of sites in the community each week; and Llanw Llŷn, a papur bro published in AbersochAbersoch
Abersoch is a large village in the community of Llanengan in Gwynedd, Wales. It is a popular coastal seaside resort with approximately 1,000 inhabitants, on the east-facing south coast of the Llŷn Peninsula at the southern terminus of the A499. It is about south-west of Pwllheli and south-west of...
, serves the area; the local English newspapers are the Caernarfon and Denbigh Herald, published in Caernarfon
Caernarfon
Caernarfon is a Royal town, community and port in Gwynedd, Wales, with a population of 9,611. It lies along the A487 road, on the east banks of the Menai Straits, opposite the Isle of Anglesey. The city of Bangor is to the northeast, while Snowdonia fringes Caernarfon to the east and southeast...
; and the Cambrian News
Cambrian News
The Cambrian News is a weekly newspaper distributed in Wales. It was founded in 1860 and is based in Cefn Llan Science Park, Aberystwyth. Cambrian News Ltd was bought by media entrepreneur Sir Ray Tindle in 1998.- History :...
, published in Aberystwyth
Aberystwyth
Aberystwyth is a historic market town, administrative centre and holiday resort within Ceredigion, Wales. Often colloquially known as Aber, it is located at the confluence of the rivers Ystwyth and Rheidol....
. Summer harp recitals and concerts are held in St Hywyn's Church; Gŵyl Pen Draw'r Byd (The Land's End Festival) is a yearly event which includes beach side concerts and competitions on the shore, with an evening concert at Morfa Mawr Farm; Gŵyl Pentre Coll (The Lost Village Festival), a festival of contemporary acoustic music, has been held since 2008 at Felin Uchaf in Rhoshirwaun; and a local eisteddfod, Eisteddfod Flynyddol Uwchmynydd, is held at Ysgol Crud y Werin.
The poet Ronald Stuart Thomas
R. S. Thomas
Ronald Stuart Thomas was a Welsh poet and Anglican clergyman, noted for his nationalism, spirituality and deep dislike of the anglicisation of Wales...
was vicar of St Hywyn's Church from 1967 to 1978; when he retired he lived for some years in Y Rhiw. An ardent Welsh nationalist who learnt to speak Welsh, his poetry was based on his religious faith. In 1995 he was nominated for the Nobel Prize in Literature
Nobel Prize in Literature
Since 1901, the Nobel Prize in Literature has been awarded annually to an author from any country who has, in the words from the will of Alfred Nobel, produced "in the field of literature the most outstanding work in an ideal direction"...
, and he was widely regarded as the best religious poet of his time. The subject of one of Thomas's poems, Richard Robert Jones, better known as "Dic Aberdaron
Dic Aberdaron
Dic Aberdaron was a Welsh traveller and polyglot. He had little or no formal education, but was reputed to have taught himself 14 or 15 languages, both ancient and modern, including Latin at the age of 11....
", was born in the village in 1780. Despite very little formal education, he is said to have been fluent in 14 languages, and spent years travelling the country accompanied by his books and his cat.
Roy Campbell (poet)
Ignatius Royston Dunnachie Campbell, better known as Roy Campbell, was an Anglo-African poet and satirist. He was considered by T. S. Eliot, Dylan Thomas and Edith Sitwell to have been one of the best poets of the period between the First and Second World Wars...
published The Flaming Terrapin, written in a "croglofft cottage" above Porth Ysgo, in 1922; he was considered to be one of the best poets of the period between the two world wars. Considered one of the most significant Welsh poets of the 15th century, Dafydd Nanmor
Dafydd Nanmor
Dafydd Nanmor was a Welsh language poet born at Nanmor , in Gwynedd, north-west Wales. He is one of the most significant poets of this period....
, in Gwallt Llio, compared the striking yellow colour of the rocks at Uwchmynydd, covered by golden hair lichen
Teloschistes
Teloschistes is a genus of lichenized fungi in the family Teloschistaceae.-External links:*...
, to the colour of his loved one's hair. Lewys Daron
Lewys Daron
Lewys Daron was a Welsh-language professional poet from the Llŷn area of Gwynedd, Wales. Although not considered to be one of the foremost of the Poets of the Nobility, his work provides a portrait of the gentry society of north-west Wales at the start of the Tudor period.On the basis of his name...
, a 16th-century poet best known for his elegy to friend and fellow poet Tudur Aled
Tudur Aled
Tudur Aled was a late medieval Welsh poet, born in Llansannan, Denbighshire.He is regarded as one of the finest poets of his period and was a master of cynghanedd....
, is thought to have been born in Aberdaron.
Yorkshire-born poet Christine Evans
Christine Evans (poet)
Christine Evans is an English poet who was born in West Riding, Yorkshire.Evans lives half the year on Bardsey Island, spending winters at Uwchmynydd. In 1967 she moved to Pwllheli, where her father and grandmother were brought up, to work as a teacher, and married into a Bardsey Island farming...
lives half the year on Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
and spends the winters at Uwchmynydd. She moved to Pwllheli
Pwllheli
Pwllheli is a community and the main market town of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, north-western Wales. It has a population of 3,861, of which a large proportion, 81 per cent, are Welsh speaking. Pwllheli is the place where Plaid Cymru was founded. It is the birthplace of Albert Evans-Jones -...
as a teacher and married into a Bardsey Island farming family. On maternity leave in 1976, she started writing poems; her first book was published seven years later. Cometary Phrases was Welsh Book of the Year 1989 and she was the winner of the inaugural Roland Mathias Prize in 2005.
Edgar Ewart Pritchard, an amateur film-maker from Brownhills
Brownhills
Brownhills is a town in the West Midlands, England. Located on the edge of Cannock Chase near the large artificial lake Chasewater, it is north-east of Walsall and a similar distance south-west of Lichfield. It is part of the Metropolitan Borough of Walsall and the Aldridge-Brownhills...
, produced "The Island in the Current", a colour movie of life on Bardsey Island, in 1953; a copy of the film is held by the National Screen and Sound Archive of Wales. A candle lantern, discovered in 1946 in a cowshed at Y Rhiw, is now displayed in St Fagans National History Museum
St Fagans National History Museum
St Fagans National History Museum , commonly referred to as St Fagans after the village where it is located, is an open-air museum in Cardiff chronicling the historical lifestyle, culture and architecture of the Welsh people...
; and Iron Age
Iron Age
The Iron Age is the archaeological period generally occurring after the Bronze Age, marked by the prevalent use of iron. The early period of the age is characterized by the widespread use of iron or steel. The adoption of such material coincided with other changes in society, including differing...
pottery found at Castell Odo is on display at Gwynedd Museum and Art Gallery in Bangor
Bangor, Gwynedd
Bangor is a city in Gwynedd, north west Wales, and one of the smallest cities in Britain. It is a university city with a population of 13,725 at the 2001 census, not including around 10,000 students at Bangor University. Including nearby Menai Bridge on Anglesey, which does not however form part of...
.
Dilys Cadwaladr
Dilys Cadwaladr
Dilys Cadwaladr was a Welsh poet.She is notable for being the first woman ever to win the Crown at the National Eisteddfod of Wales. She achieved this feat in 1953 at Rhyl.-References:...
, the former school teacher on Bardsey Island, in 1953 became the first woman to win the Crown at the National Eisteddfod for her long poem Y Llen; and artist Brenda Chamberlain
Brenda Chamberlain (artist)
Brenda Chamberlain was a Welsh artist and poet.Born in Bangor, Wales, she studied art at the Royal Academy in London, but simultaneously developed an interest in poetry. Just before the Second World War, she moved in with artist John Petts, and together they set up the Caseg Press at their home...
twice won the Gold Medal for Art at the Eisteddfod; some of the murals she painted can still be seen on the walls of Carreg, her island home from 1947 to 1962. Wildlife artist Kim Atkinson, whose work has been widely exhibited in Wales and England, spent her childhood on the island and returned to live there in the 1980s.
Since 1999, Bardsey Island Trust has appointed an Artist in Residence to spend several weeks on the island producing work which is later exhibited on the mainland. A Welsh literary residence was created in 2002; singer-songwriter Fflur Dafydd
Fflur Dafydd
Fflur Dafydd is an award winning novelist, singer-songwriter and musician. Whilst predominantly publishing in Welsh, she also writes in English. She records in Welsh, and her work is regularly played on Radio Cymru.-Early life:...
spent six weeks working on a collection of poetry and prose. Her play Hugo was inspired by her stay, and she has produced two novels, Atyniad (Attraction), which won the prose medal at the 2006 Eisteddfod; and Twenty Thousand Saints, winner of the Oxfam Hay Prize, which tells how the women of the island, starved of men, turn to each other.
It was tradition for Bardsey Island to elect the "King of Bardsey" , and from 1820 onwards he would be crowned by Baron Newborough or his representative; the crown is now kept at Merseyside Maritime Museum
Merseyside Maritime Museum
The Merseyside Maritime Museum is a museum based in the city of Liverpool, Merseyside, England. It is part of National Museums Liverpool and an Anchor Point of ERIH, The European Route of Industrial Heritage...
in Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool is a city and metropolitan borough of Merseyside, England, along the eastern side of the Mersey Estuary. It was founded as a borough in 1207 and was granted city status in 1880...
, although calls have been made for it to return to Gwynedd. At the outbreak of the First World War, the last king, Love Pritchard, offered himself and the men of the island for military service, but he was refused as he was considered too old at the age of 71; Pritchard took umbrage, and declared the island to be a neutral power. In 1925 Pritchard left the island for the mainland, to seek a less laborious way of life, but died the following year.
Owen Griffith, a qualified pharmacist from Penycaerau, who was known as the "Doctor of the Wild Wart", used a traditional herbalist remedy to cure basal cell carcinoma
Basal cell carcinoma
Basal-cell carcinoma is the most common type of skin cancer. It rarely metastasizes or kills. However, because it can cause significant destruction and disfigurement by invading surrounding tissues, it is still considered malignant. Statistically, approximately 3 out of 10 Caucasians may develop a...
, also known as rodent ulcer; the remedy had supposedly been passed on to the family 300 years earlier by an Irish tinker
Irish Traveller
Irish Travellers are a traditionally nomadic people of ethnic Irish origin, who maintain a separate language and set of traditions. They live predominantly in the Republic of Ireland, the United Kingdom and the United States.-Etymology:...
. In 1932 a woman died while receiving treatment and, even though the inquest
Inquest
Inquests in England and Wales are held into sudden and unexplained deaths and also into the circumstances of discovery of a certain class of valuable artefacts known as "treasure trove"...
into her death found that no blame was apportioned to the treatment, the Chief Medical Officer for Caernarfonshire
Caernarfonshire
Caernarfonshire , historically spelled as Caernarvonshire or Carnarvonshire in English during its existence, was one of the thirteen historic counties, a vice-county and a former administrative county of Wales....
vociferously condemned the treatment in the press. Former patients came out in support of the pharmacist, and petitions were sent to the Department of Health demanding that a medical licence be granted to Griffith and his cousin.
There are several folk tales of the Tylwyth Teg
Tylwyth teg
The Tylwyth Teg is the common term in Wales for fairies. A synonym, Bendith y Mamau, means "Blessing of the Mothers". Until the early 19th century it was commonly believed that the Tylwyth Teg, described as ethereal, beautiful and fair-haired, dwelt in a number of places in Wales as genii loci...
, the fairy
Fairy
A fairy is a type of mythical being or legendary creature, a form of spirit, often described as metaphysical, supernatural or preternatural.Fairies resemble various beings of other mythologies, though even folklore that uses the term...
people who inhabited the area and an invisible land in Cardigan Bay
Cardigan Bay
Cardigan Bay is a large inlet of the Irish Sea, indenting the west coast of Wales between Bardsey Island, Gwynedd in the north, and Strumble Head, Pembrokeshire at its southern end. It is the largest bay in Wales....
. One tells of a farmer from Aberdaron who was in the habit of stepping outside his house before retiring to bed. One night he was spoken to by a stranger, who asked why the farmer was annoyed by him. The farmer, confused, asked what the stranger meant and was told to stand with one foot on the stranger's. This he did, and could see another house, just below his own, and that all the farm's slops went down the chimney of the invisible house. The stranger asked if the farmer would move his door to the other side of the house, which the farmer subsequently did, walling up the original door; from that day, the farmer's livestock flourished, and he became one of the most prosperous men in the area.
Religion
A church was founded in Aberdaron in the 6th century by Saint Hywyn, a follower of Saint CadfanSaint Cadfan
Saint Cadfan, ; , Abbot of Tywyn and Bardsey was a Breton Saint who lived in 6th century Wales. A Breton nobleman, he was the son of Eneas Ledewig , and Gwen Teirbron, a daughter of Budic II, a King of Brittany.- Associations & Legacy :...
; it was a significant institution, a monastery and centre of religious learning, rather than simply a place of worship for the locals. The present double-naved St Hywyn's Church , built in 1137 and known as "The Cathedral of Llŷn", stands above the shore and was on the pilgrim route to Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
. It contains a 12th-century Romanesque
Romanesque architecture
Romanesque architecture is an architectural style of Medieval Europe characterised by semi-circular arches. There is no consensus for the beginning date of the Romanesque architecture, with proposals ranging from the 6th to the 10th century. It developed in the 12th century into the Gothic style,...
arched door, and a square bell turret. The church was extended in 1417 and abandoned in 1841, when the locals decided to build a new church, Eglwys Newydd, in the village; the new building, however, proved unpopular and the congregation returned in 1906. Inside is a display about the life and works of the poet, Ronald Stuart Thomas
R. S. Thomas
Ronald Stuart Thomas was a Welsh poet and Anglican clergyman, noted for his nationalism, spirituality and deep dislike of the anglicisation of Wales...
; and in the churchyard stand Y Meini Feracius a Senagus (The Veracius and Senacus Stones), the tombstones of two 5th-century Christian priests, found in the 18th century on farmland near Mynydd Anelog. In 2008 the church became the centre of controversy when the local vicar blessed a gay civil partnership, after approval by the local church council; the vicar was reprimanded by Barry Morgan
Barry Morgan
Barry Cennydd Morgan has been the Archbishop of the Church in Wales since 2003.-Early life:Morgan was born in Gwaun-Cae-Gurwen, Neath Port Talbot and studied history at University College, London and theology at Selwyn College, Cambridge...
, the Archbishop of Wales
Archbishop of Wales
The post of Archbishop of Wales was created in 1920 when the Church in Wales was separated from the Church of England , and disestablished...
Aberdaron is a community
Community (Wales)
A community is a division of land in Wales that forms the lowest-tier of local government in Wales. Welsh communities are analogous to civil parishes in England....
and former fishing village at the western tip of the Llŷn Peninsula
Llŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
in the Welsh
Wales
Wales is a country that is part of the United Kingdom and the island of Great Britain, bordered by England to its east and the Atlantic Ocean and Irish Sea to its west. It has a population of three million, and a total area of 20,779 km²...
county of Gwynedd
Gwynedd
Gwynedd is a county in north-west Wales, named after the old Kingdom of Gwynedd. Although the second biggest in terms of geographical area, it is also one of the most sparsely populated...
. It lies 14.8 miles (23.8 km) west of Pwllheli
Pwllheli
Pwllheli is a community and the main market town of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, north-western Wales. It has a population of 3,861, of which a large proportion, 81 per cent, are Welsh speaking. Pwllheli is the place where Plaid Cymru was founded. It is the birthplace of Albert Evans-Jones -...
and 33.5 miles (53.9 km) south west of Caernarfon
Caernarfon
Caernarfon is a Royal town, community and port in Gwynedd, Wales, with a population of 9,611. It lies along the A487 road, on the east banks of the Menai Straits, opposite the Isle of Anglesey. The city of Bangor is to the northeast, while Snowdonia fringes Caernarfon to the east and southeast...
, and has a population of 1,019. It is sometimes referred to as the "Land's End of Wales" . The community includes Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
, the coastal area around Porthor, and the villages of Anelog, Llanfaelrhys
Llanfaelrhys
Llanfaelrhys is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd, located on the Llŷn Peninsula. The parish was abolished in 1934 and incorporated into Aberdaron.-External links:...
, Penycaerau, Rhoshirwaun, Rhydlios, Uwchmynydd and Y Rhiw.
The village was the last rest stop for pilgrims heading to Bardsey Island, the legendary "island of 20,000 saints". In the 18th and 19th centuries it developed as a shipbuilding centre and port. The mining and quarrying industries became major employers, and limestone
Limestone
Limestone is a sedimentary rock composed largely of the minerals calcite and aragonite, which are different crystal forms of calcium carbonate . Many limestones are composed from skeletal fragments of marine organisms such as coral or foraminifera....
, lead
Lead
Lead is a main-group element in the carbon group with the symbol Pb and atomic number 82. Lead is a soft, malleable poor metal. It is also counted as one of the heavy metals. Metallic lead has a bluish-white color after being freshly cut, but it soon tarnishes to a dull grayish color when exposed...
, jasper
Jasper
Jasper, a form of chalcedony, is an opaque, impure variety of silica, usually red, yellow, brown or green in color; and rarely blue. This mineral breaks with a smooth surface, and is used for ornamentation or as a gemstone. It can be highly polished and is used for vases, seals, and at one time for...
and manganese
Manganese
Manganese is a chemical element, designated by the symbol Mn. It has the atomic number 25. It is found as a free element in nature , and in many minerals...
were exported. After the Second World War the mining industry collapsed, and Aberdaron gradually developed into a popular holiday resort. The beach was awarded a Seaside Award in 2008.
The coastal waters are part of Pen Llŷn a'r Sarnau Special Area of Conservation , one of the largest marine designated sites in the United Kingdom. The coast itself forms part of the Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island Special Protection Area , and was designated a Heritage Coast in 1974. In 1956 the area was included in Llŷn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty . Conservation Areas have been created in Aberdaron, Bardsey Island and Y Rhiw; and the area has been designated a Landscape of Historic Interest.
Etymology
Aberdaron means "Mouth of the Oak River", a reference to the Afon Daron (River Daron) which flows into Bae Aberdaron (Aberdaron Bay) in the village.History
Evidence from one of the most important archaeological sites in Wales, the Iron AgeIron Age
The Iron Age is the archaeological period generally occurring after the Bronze Age, marked by the prevalent use of iron. The early period of the age is characterized by the widespread use of iron or steel. The adoption of such material coincided with other changes in society, including differing...
hillfort
Hillforts in Britain
Hillforts in Britain refers to the various hillforts within the island of Great Britain. Although the earliest such constructs fitting this description come from the Neolithic period, with a few also dating to the later Bronze Age, British hill forts were primarily constructed during the Iron Age...
at Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum, suggests that the area around Aberdaron was colonised early, as a wave of Celtic settlers explored the Irish Sea
Irish Sea
The Irish Sea separates the islands of Ireland and Great Britain. It is connected to the Celtic Sea in the south by St George's Channel, and to the Atlantic Ocean in the north by the North Channel. Anglesey is the largest island within the Irish Sea, followed by the Isle of Man...
, probably around the 4th century BC. The construction was wholly defensive, but in later phases defence appears to have been less important, and in the last phase the fort's ramparts were deliberately flattened, suggesting there was no longer a need for defence. It appears that Aberdaron became a peaceful farming community. Ptolemy
Ptolemy
Claudius Ptolemy , was a Roman citizen of Egypt who wrote in Greek. He was a mathematician, astronomer, geographer, astrologer, and poet of a single epigram in the Greek Anthology. He lived in Egypt under Roman rule, and is believed to have been born in the town of Ptolemais Hermiou in the...
calls the Llŷn Peninsula
Llŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
"Ganganorum Promontorium" (Peninsula of the Gangani); the Gangani
Gangani
The Gangani were a people of ancient Ireland who are referred to in Ptolemy's 2nd century Geography as living in the south-west of the island, probably near the mouth of the River Shannon, between the Auteini to the north and the Uellabori to the south...
were a tribe of Irish Celts, and it is thought there may have been strong ties with Leinster
Leinster
Leinster is one of the Provinces of Ireland situated in the east of Ireland. It comprises the ancient Kingdoms of Mide, Osraige and Leinster. Following the Norman invasion of Ireland, the historic fifths of Leinster and Mide gradually merged, mainly due to the impact of the Pale, which straddled...
.
Right of asylum
Right of asylum is an ancient juridical notion, under which a person persecuted for political opinions or religious beliefs in his or her own country may be protected by another sovereign authority, a foreign country, or church sanctuaries...
. In 1094 Gruffydd ap Cynan
Gruffydd ap Cynan
Gruffydd ap Cynan was a King of Gwynedd. In the course of a long and eventful life, he became a key figure in Welsh resistance to Norman rule, and was remembered as King of all Wales...
, the exiled King of Gwynedd
Kingdom of Gwynedd
Gwynedd was one petty kingdom of several Welsh successor states which emerged in 5th-century post-Roman Britain in the Early Middle Ages, and later evolved into a principality during the High Middle Ages. It was based on the former Brythonic tribal lands of the Ordovices, Gangani, and the...
, sought refuge in the church while attempting to recapture his throne; he escaped in the monastic community's boat to Ireland. He regained his territories in 1101, and in 1115 Gruffydd ap Rhys
Gruffydd ap Rhys
Gruffydd ap Rhys was Prince of Deheubarth, in Wales. His sister was the Princess Nest ferch Rhys.-Early life:Following the death of Gruffydd's father Rhys ap Tewdwr in 1093, Deheubarth was taken over by the Normans, and Gruffydd spent much of his early years in exile in Ireland.In 1113 Gruffydd...
, the exiled prince of Deheubarth, took refuge at Aberdaron to escape capture by Gwynedd's ruler. Henry I of England
Henry I of England
Henry I was the fourth son of William I of England. He succeeded his elder brother William II as King of England in 1100 and defeated his eldest brother, Robert Curthose, to become Duke of Normandy in 1106...
had invaded Gwynedd the previous year, and faced by an overwhelming force, Gruffydd ap Cynan had been forced to pay homage and a substantial fine to Henry. The King of Gwynedd, seeking to give up the exiled prince to Henry, ordered that the fugitive prince be dragged from the church by force, but his soldiers were beaten back by the local clergy; Gruffydd ap Rhys escaped under cover of night and fled south to join up with his supporters in Ystrad Tywi
Ystrad Tywi
Ystrad Tywi is an area of south-west Wales situated on the banks of the Tywi river as it approaches the sea to join the Bristol Channel at Carmarthen...
.
Following the conquest of Gwynedd, in 1284, Edward I
Edward I of England
Edward I , also known as Edward Longshanks and the Hammer of the Scots, was King of England from 1272 to 1307. The first son of Henry III, Edward was involved early in the political intrigues of his father's reign, which included an outright rebellion by the English barons...
set about touring his new territories. He visited the castles at Conwy
Conwy
Conwy is a walled market town and community in Conwy County Borough on the north coast of Wales. The town, which faces Deganwy across the River Conwy, formerly lay in Gwynedd and prior to that in Caernarfonshire. Conwy has a population of 14,208...
and Caernarfon
Caernarfon
Caernarfon is a Royal town, community and port in Gwynedd, Wales, with a population of 9,611. It lies along the A487 road, on the east banks of the Menai Straits, opposite the Isle of Anglesey. The city of Bangor is to the northeast, while Snowdonia fringes Caernarfon to the east and southeast...
. Court was held at Nefyn
Nefyn
Nefyn is a small town and community on the north west coast of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, Wales, with a population of 2,619. Welsh is the first language of almost 80% of its inhabitants. The A497 road terminates in the town centre.-History:...
, at which his new subjects were expected to demonstrate their loyalty; and he visited Aberdaron on his way to Bardsey Abbey.
After the English Civil War
English Civil War
The English Civil War was a series of armed conflicts and political machinations between Parliamentarians and Royalists...
, when the Parliamentarians
Roundhead
"Roundhead" was the nickname given to the supporters of the Parliament during the English Civil War. Also known as Parliamentarians, they fought against King Charles I and his supporters, the Cavaliers , who claimed absolute power and the divine right of kings...
under Oliver Cromwell
Oliver Cromwell
Oliver Cromwell was an English military and political leader who overthrew the English monarchy and temporarily turned England into a republican Commonwealth, and served as Lord Protector of England, Scotland, and Ireland....
introduced a strongly Protestant regime, Catholicism
Catholicism
Catholicism is a broad term for the body of the Catholic faith, its theologies and doctrines, its liturgical, ethical, spiritual, and behavioral characteristics, as well as a religious people as a whole....
remained the dominant religion in the area. Catholics, who had largely supported the Royalist
Cavalier
Cavalier was the name used by Parliamentarians for a Royalist supporter of King Charles I and son Charles II during the English Civil War, the Interregnum, and the Restoration...
side, were often considered to be traitors and efforts were made to eradicate the religion. The persecution even extended to Aberdaron, and in 1657, Gwen Griffiths of Y Rhiw was summoned to the Quarter Sessions
Quarter Sessions
The Courts of Quarter Sessions or Quarter Sessions were local courts traditionally held at four set times each year in the United Kingdom and other countries in the former British Empire...
as a "papist".
Agricultural improvement
British Agricultural Revolution
British Agricultural Revolution describes a period of development in Britain between the 17th century and the end of the 19th century, which saw an epoch-making increase in agricultural productivity and net output. This in turn supported unprecedented population growth, freeing up a significant...
and the Industrial Revolution
Industrial Revolution
The Industrial Revolution was a period from the 18th to the 19th century where major changes in agriculture, manufacturing, mining, transportation, and technology had a profound effect on the social, economic and cultural conditions of the times...
came to Aberdaron in the 19th century. The Inclosure (Consolidation) Act 1801 was intended to make it easier for landlords to enclose and improve common land, introduce increased efficiency, bring more land under the plough, and reduce the high prices of agricultural production. Rhoshirwaun Common, following strong opposition, was enclosed in 1814; while the process was not completed in Aberdaron, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw until 1861. On the industrial front, mining developed as a major source of employment, especially at Y Rhiw, where manganese
Manganese
Manganese is a chemical element, designated by the symbol Mn. It has the atomic number 25. It is found as a free element in nature , and in many minerals...
was discovered in 1827.
During the Second World War, Y Rhiw played a vital role in preparations for the Normandy Landings. A team of electronic engineers set up an experimental ultra high frequency
Ultra high frequency
Ultra-High Frequency designates the ITU Radio frequency range of electromagnetic waves between 300 MHz and 3 GHz , also known as the decimetre band or decimetre wave as the wavelengths range from one to ten decimetres...
radio station, from where they were able to make a direct link to stations in Fishguard
Fishguard
Fishguard is a coastal town in Pembrokeshire, south-west Wales, with a population of 3,300 . The community of Fishguard and Goodwick had a population of 5043 at the 2001 census....
and Llandudno
Llandudno
Llandudno is a seaside resort and town in Conwy County Borough, Wales. In the 2001 UK census it had a population of 20,090 including that of Penrhyn Bay and Penrhynside, which are within the Llandudno Community...
. The system employed a frequency that the German forces were unable to either monitor or jam, and was used in the 1944 landings.
Governance
Bodferin
Bodferin is a former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. It was abolished in 1934, and incorporated into Aberdaron....
, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw were civil parishes in Cwmwd Cymydmaen
Commote
A commote , sometimes spelt in older documents as cymwd, was a secular division of land in Medieval Wales. The word derives from the prefix cym- and the noun bod...
within Cantref Llŷn
Cantref Llyn
The ancient Welsh cantref of Llŷn in north-west Wales was part of the kingdom of Gwynedd for much of its history until it was included in the new county of Caernarfonshire, together with Arfon and Arllechwedd under the terms of the Statute of Rhuddlan in 1284....
, in Caernarfonshire
Caernarfonshire
Caernarfonshire , historically spelled as Caernarvonshire or Carnarvonshire in English during its existence, was one of the thirteen historic counties, a vice-county and a former administrative county of Wales....
. Following the Poor Law Amendment Act 1834
Poor Law Amendment Act 1834
The Poor Law Amendment Act 1834, sometimes abbreviated to PLAA, was an Act of the Parliament of the United Kingdom passed by the Whig government of Lord Melbourne that reformed the country's poverty relief system . It was an Amendment Act that completely replaced earlier legislation based on the...
, parishes were grouped into "unions": Pwllheli Poor Law Union was created in 1837. Under the Public Health Act 1848 the area of the poor law union became Pwllheli Rural Sanitary District, which from 1889 formed a second tier of local government under Caernarfonshire County Council. Y Rhiw was absorbed into the smaller Llanfaelrhys in 1886; and under the Local Government Act 1894
Local Government Act 1894
The Local Government Act 1894 was an Act of the Parliament of the United Kingdom that reformed local government in England and Wales outside the County of London. The Act followed the reforms carried out at county level under the Local Government Act 1888...
the four remaining parishes became part of Llŷn Rural District . Bodferin, Llanfaelrhys, and parts of Bryncroes
Bryncroes
Bryncroes is a hamlet and former civil parish in Gwynedd in Wales, and lies on the Llŷn Peninsula approximately 2 km west of Sarn Mellteyrn. The parish was abolished in 1934 and divided between Botwnnog and Aberdaron. The village was the scene of fierce protests between 1969 and 1972 when it...
and Llangwnnadl
Llangwnnadl
Llangwnnadl is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The parish was abolished in 1934, and incorporated into Tudweiliog....
, were amalgamated into Aberdaron in 1934. Llŷn Rural District was abolished in 1974, and Bardsey Island was absorbed into Aberdaron to form a community
Community (Wales)
A community is a division of land in Wales that forms the lowest-tier of local government in Wales. Welsh communities are analogous to civil parishes in England....
within Dwyfor District
Dwyfor
Dwyfor was one of the five local government districts of Gwynedd, Wales from 1974 to 1996, covering the Llŷn peninsula. Its council was based in Pwllheli....
in the new county
Preserved counties of Wales
The preserved counties of Wales are the current areas used in Wales for the ceremonial purposes of Lieutenancy and Shrievalty. They are based on the counties created by the Local Government Act 1972 and used for local government and other purposes between 1974 and 1996.-Usage:The Local Government ...
of Gwynedd
Gwynedd
Gwynedd is a county in north-west Wales, named after the old Kingdom of Gwynedd. Although the second biggest in terms of geographical area, it is also one of the most sparsely populated...
; Dwyfor was abolished when Gwynedd became a unitary authority
Unitary authority
A unitary authority is a type of local authority that has a single tier and is responsible for all local government functions within its area or performs additional functions which elsewhere in the relevant country are usually performed by national government or a higher level of sub-national...
in 1996.
The community now forms an electoral division
Wards of the United Kingdom
A ward in the United Kingdom is an electoral district at sub-national level represented by one or more councillors. It is the primary unit of British administrative and electoral geography .-England:...
of Cyngor Gwynedd
Gwynedd Council
Gwynedd Council is the governing body for the principal area of Gwynedd, one of the subdivisions of Wales within the United Kingdom.- Creation of the Authority :...
(Gwynedd Council), electing one councillor; William Gareth Roberts of Plaid Cymru
Plaid Cymru
' is a political party in Wales. It advocates the establishment of an independent Welsh state within the European Union. was formed in 1925 and won its first seat in 1966...
was re-elected in 2008. Aberdaron Community Council has 12 elected members, who represent three wards: Aberdaron De (Aberdaron South), Aberdaron Dwyrain (Aberdaron East) and Aberdaron Gogledd (Aberdaron North). Ten Independent
Independent (politician)
In politics, an independent or non-party politician is an individual not affiliated to any political party. Independents may hold a centrist viewpoint between those of major political parties, a viewpoint more extreme than any major party, or they may have a viewpoint based on issues that they do...
councillors and one from Plaid Cymru were elected unopposed in the 2008 election.
From 1950, Aberdaron was part of Caernarfon
Caernarfon (UK Parliament constituency)
Caernarfon was a parliamentary constituency centred on the town of Caernarfon in Wales. It elected one Member of Parliament by the first past the post system....
parliamentary constituency. In 2010, the community was transferred to Dwyfor Meirionnydd
Dwyfor Meirionnydd (UK Parliament constituency)
Dwyfor Meirionnydd is a constituency of the House of Commons of the Parliament of the United Kingdom . The seat was created by the Welsh Boundary Commission for the 2010 general election, and replaced the old north Wales seat of Meirionnydd Nant Conwy...
constituency, represented by Elfyn Llwyd
Elfyn Llwyd
Elfyn Llwyd, PC is a Welsh barrister and politician. He has been a Member of Parliament since 1992, representing Meirionnydd Nant Conwy in the House of Commons from 1992 to 2010 and Dwyfor Meirionnydd since 2010...
of Plaid Cymru. In the National Assembly for Wales
National Assembly for Wales
The National Assembly for Wales is a devolved assembly with power to make legislation in Wales. The Assembly comprises 60 members, who are known as Assembly Members, or AMs...
it has, since 2007, formed part of Dwyfor Meirionnydd
Dwyfor Meirionnydd (Assembly constituency)
Dwyfor Meirionnydd is a constituency of the National Assembly for Wales, created for the 2007 Assembly election. It elects one Assembly Member by the first past the post method of election...
assembly constituency, represented by Dafydd Elis-Thomas
Dafydd Elis-Thomas
Dafydd Elis Elis-Thomas, Baron Elis-Thomas, PC, AM, is a Welsh politician and was the Presiding Officer of the National Assembly for Wales until 2011...
, also of Plaid Cymru, who until 2011 was the Presiding Officer
Presiding Officer of the National Assembly for Wales
The Presiding Officer of the National Assembly for Wales is the Speaker of the National Assembly for Wales, elected by the Members of the National Assembly for Wales to chair their meetings ; to maintain order; and to protect the rights of Members.He or she also heads the Corporate Body of the...
of the assembly. The constituency forms part of the electoral region of Mid and West Wales.
Geography
Llŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
is a marine eroded platform, an extension of the Snowdonia
Snowdonia
Snowdonia is a region in north Wales and a national park of in area. It was the first to be designated of the three National Parks in Wales, in 1951.-Name and extent:...
massif, with a complex geology including Precambrian
Precambrian
The Precambrian is the name which describes the large span of time in Earth's history before the current Phanerozoic Eon, and is a Supereon divided into several eons of the geologic time scale...
rocks. The coastline is rocky, with crags, scree
Scree
Scree, also called talus, is a term given to an accumulation of broken rock fragments at the base of crags, mountain cliffs, or valley shoulders. Landforms associated with these materials are sometimes called scree slopes or talus piles...
s and low cliffs; heather covered hills are separated by valleys occupied by pastures.
To the east, Mynydd Rhiw, Mynydd y Graig and Mynydd Penarfynydd form a 3 miles (4.8 km) long series of hog-back ridges of igneous rock that reaches the sea at Trwyn Talfarach. Above 800 feet (243.8 m) the ridges are topped by hard gabbro
Gabbro
Gabbro refers to a large group of dark, coarse-grained, intrusive mafic igneous rocks chemically equivalent to basalt. The rocks are plutonic, formed when molten magma is trapped beneath the Earth's surface and cools into a crystalline mass....
. At its northern end Mynydd Rhiw rises to 1000 feet (304.8 m), the outcrop of Clip y Gylfinhir (Curlew's Crag) looming above the village of Y Rhiw. Mynydd Penarfynydd is one of the best exposures of intrusive, layered, igneous rock in the British Isles.
Boulder clay
Boulder clay, in geology, is a deposit of clay, often full of boulders, which is formed in and beneath glaciers and ice-sheets wherever they are found, but is in a special sense the typical deposit of the Glacial Period in northern Europe and North America...
to form sand, resulting in the spacious beach of Porth Neigwl (Hell's Mouth).
West of Aberdaron, four peaks rise above the rocky shoreline at Uwchmynydd. Mynydd Anelog stands 620 feet (189 m) high, Mynydd Mawr at 490 feet (149.4 m), Mynydd y Gwyddel rises to 295 feet (89.9 m) and Mynydd Bychestyn is 330 feet (100.6 m) above sea level.
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
lies 1.9 miles (3 km) off Pen y Cil. The island is 0.6 mile (0.965604 km) wide and 1 miles (1.6 km) long. The north east rises steeply from the sea to a height of 548 feet (167 m). The western plain, in contrast, comprises low, and relatively flat, cultivated farmland; in the south the island narrows to an isthmus
Isthmus
An isthmus is a narrow strip of land connecting two larger land areas usually with waterforms on either side.Canals are often built through isthmuses where they may be particularly advantageous to create a shortcut for marine transportation...
, connecting to a peninsula.
The coast around Aberdaron has been the scene of many shipwrecks. In 1822, the Bardsey Island lighthouse tender was wrecked, with the loss of six lives; and in 1752, the schooner John the Baptist, carrying a cargo of oats from Wexford
Wexford
Wexford is the county town of County Wexford, Ireland. It is situated near the southeastern corner of Ireland, close to Rosslare Europort. The town is connected to Dublin via the M11/N11 National Primary Route, and the national rail network...
to Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool is a city and metropolitan borough of Merseyside, England, along the eastern side of the Mersey Estuary. It was founded as a borough in 1207 and was granted city status in 1880...
, was wrecked on the beach at Aberdaron. The sailing ship Newry, with 400 passengers bound from Warrenpoint
Warrenpoint
Warrenpoint is a small town in County Down, Northern Ireland. It lies on the northern shore of Carlingford Lough and is separated from the Republic of Ireland by a narrow strait. The town sprang up within the townland of Ringmackilroy...
to Québec
Quebec City
Quebec , also Québec, Quebec City or Québec City is the capital of the Canadian province of Quebec and is located within the Capitale-Nationale region. It is the second most populous city in Quebec after Montreal, which is about to the southwest...
, was wrecked at Porth Orion in 1880. The crew abandoned the passengers, leaving just the captain, ship's mate and one sailor, assisted by three local men, to lead 375 men, women and children to safety. A great storm swept the country on 26 October 1859 and many ships were lost: nine were wrecked at Porthor, seven of them with complete loss of life. On the south coast, vessels were often driven ashore at Porth Neigwl by a combination of south westerly gales and treacherous offshore currents. The Transit was lost in 1839, the Arfestone the following year, and the Henry Catherine in 1866. The bay earned its English title, "Hell's Mouth", from its reputation for wrecks during the days of the sailing ship.
Aberdaron is noted for low levels of air pollution. The Gwynedd State of the Environment Report in 2004 found levels of sulfur dioxide
Sulfur dioxide
Sulfur dioxide is the chemical compound with the formula . It is released by volcanoes and in various industrial processes. Since coal and petroleum often contain sulfur compounds, their combustion generates sulfur dioxide unless the sulfur compounds are removed before burning the fuel...
, nitrogen dioxide
Nitrogen dioxide
Nitrogen dioxide is the chemical compound with the formula it is one of several nitrogen oxides. is an intermediate in the industrial synthesis of nitric acid, millions of tons of which are produced each year. This reddish-brown toxic gas has a characteristic sharp, biting odor and is a prominent...
and carbon monoxide
Carbon monoxide
Carbon monoxide , also called carbonous oxide, is a colorless, odorless, and tasteless gas that is slightly lighter than air. It is highly toxic to humans and animals in higher quantities, although it is also produced in normal animal metabolism in low quantities, and is thought to have some normal...
very low, and particulates
Particulates
Particulates – also known as particulate matter , suspended particulate matter , fine particles, and soot – are tiny subdivisions of solid matter suspended in a gas or liquid. In contrast, aerosol refers to particles and/or liquid droplets and the gas together. Sources of particulate matter can be...
to be low. It is one of the few sites in the United Kingdom for golden hair lichen
Teloschistes
Teloschistes is a genus of lichenized fungi in the family Teloschistaceae.-External links:*...
, a striking bright orange lichen that is very sensitive to air pollution. The climate is relatively mild and, because of the Gulf Stream
Gulf Stream
The Gulf Stream, together with its northern extension towards Europe, the North Atlantic Drift, is a powerful, warm, and swift Atlantic ocean current that originates at the tip of Florida, and follows the eastern coastlines of the United States and Newfoundland before crossing the Atlantic Ocean...
, frosts are rare in winter.
Economy
Sheep have been raised in the Llŷn PeninsulaLlŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
for over a thousand years, and Aberdaron has exported wool for many years. The main product locally was felt
Felt
Felt is a non-woven cloth that is produced by matting, condensing and pressing woollen fibres. While some types of felt are very soft, some are tough enough to form construction materials. Felt can be of any colour, and made into any shape or size....
, produced by soaking the cloth in water and beating it with large wooden paddles until the wool formed a thick mat which could be flattened, dried and cut into lengths. There were two fulling mills
Fulling
Fulling or tucking or walking is a step in woolen clothmaking which involves the cleansing of cloth to eliminate oils, dirt, and other impurities, and making it thicker. The worker who does the job is a fuller, tucker, or walker...
on the Afon Daron, in addition to three corn mills
Gristmill
The terms gristmill or grist mill can refer either to a building in which grain is ground into flour, or to the grinding mechanism itself.- Early history :...
, and lichen
Lichen
Lichens are composite organisms consisting of a symbiotic organism composed of a fungus with a photosynthetic partner , usually either a green alga or cyanobacterium...
was gathered around Y Rhiw, from which a grey dye was extracted. Arable crops consisted mainly of wheat
Wheat
Wheat is a cereal grain, originally from the Levant region of the Near East, but now cultivated worldwide. In 2007 world production of wheat was 607 million tons, making it the third most-produced cereal after maize and rice...
, barley
Barley
Barley is a major cereal grain, a member of the grass family. It serves as a major animal fodder, as a base malt for beer and certain distilled beverages, and as a component of various health foods...
, oats
OATS
OATS - Open Source Assistive Technology Software - is a source code repository or "forge" for assistive technology software. It was launched in 2006 with the goal to provide a one-stop “shop” for end users, clinicians and open-source developers to promote and develop open source assistive...
and potatoes. The field boundaries date back several centuries and are marked by walls, cloddiau and hedgerows; important habitats for a variety of wildlife.
France
The French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France...
unloaded illicit tea and brandy at Aberdaron in 1767, and attempted to sell its cargo to the locals; a Revenue cutter discovered salt being smuggled at Porth Cadlan in 1809; and a schooner on route from Guernsey
Guernsey
Guernsey, officially the Bailiwick of Guernsey is a British Crown dependency in the English Channel off the coast of Normandy.The Bailiwick, as a governing entity, embraces not only all 10 parishes on the Island of Guernsey, but also the islands of Herm, Jethou, Burhou, and Lihou and their islet...
to Scotland
Scotland
Scotland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Occupying the northern third of the island of Great Britain, it shares a border with England to the south and is bounded by the North Sea to the east, the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, and the North Channel and Irish Sea to the...
was reported to have offloaded lace, tea, brandy and gin at Y Rhiw in 1824.
During the 19th century good quality limestone
Limestone
Limestone is a sedimentary rock composed largely of the minerals calcite and aragonite, which are different crystal forms of calcium carbonate . Many limestones are composed from skeletal fragments of marine organisms such as coral or foraminifera....
and a small amount of lead
Lead
Lead is a main-group element in the carbon group with the symbol Pb and atomic number 82. Lead is a soft, malleable poor metal. It is also counted as one of the heavy metals. Metallic lead has a bluish-white color after being freshly cut, but it soon tarnishes to a dull grayish color when exposed...
ore were quarried in the village. Jasper
Jasper
Jasper, a form of chalcedony, is an opaque, impure variety of silica, usually red, yellow, brown or green in color; and rarely blue. This mineral breaks with a smooth surface, and is used for ornamentation or as a gemstone. It can be highly polished and is used for vases, seals, and at one time for...
was mined at Carreg; granite was quarried at Porth y Pistyll; and there was a brickworks at Porth Neigwl. The main source of income, however, was herring fishing
Atlantic herring
Atlantic herring is a fish in the family Clupeidae. It is one of the most abundant fish species on earth. Herring can be found on both sides of the Atlantic Ocean, congregating in large schools. They can grow up to in length and weigh more than...
. A regular shipping service was operated to Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool is a city and metropolitan borough of Merseyside, England, along the eastern side of the Mersey Estuary. It was founded as a borough in 1207 and was granted city status in 1880...
, exporting pigs, poultry and eggs; the vessels returned laden with coal for the neighbourhood. Limestone was also imported and offloaded into the water at high tide, then collected from the beach when the tide went out. Lime was needed to reduce the acidity of the local soil, and lime kilns were built on the beaches at Porthor, Porth Orion, Porth Meudwy, Aberdaron and Y Rhiw to convert the limestone to quicklime. There was shipbuilding at Porth Neigwl, where the last ship, a sloop
Sloop
A sloop is a sail boat with a fore-and-aft rig and a single mast farther forward than the mast of a cutter....
named the Ebenezer, was built in 1841; and at Porthor, which came to an end with the building of a schooner
Schooner
A schooner is a type of sailing vessel characterized by the use of fore-and-aft sails on two or more masts with the forward mast being no taller than the rear masts....
, the Sarah, in 1842. Aberdaron's last ship, the sloop Victory, had been built in 1792, and the last ship to come out of Porth Ysgo had been another sloop, the Grace, in 1778.
Manganese
Manganese is a chemical element, designated by the symbol Mn. It has the atomic number 25. It is found as a free element in nature , and in many minerals...
as a strengthening agent for steel. Ore had been discovered at Y Rhiw in 1827, and the industry became a substantial employer in the village; over 113000 long tons (114,813.7 t) of ore were extracted between 1840 and 1945, and in 1906 the industry employed 200 people.
Tourism began to develop after 1918. The first tourist guide to the village was published in 1910 and extolled the virtues of "the salubrious sea and mountain breezes"; in addition to the two hotels in the village, local farmhouses took in visitors, which provided an extra source of income.
At the 2001 census, 59.4 per cent of the population were in employment, and 23.5 per cent were self employed; the unemployment rate was 2.3 per cent; and 16.0 per cent were retired. Of those employed, 17.7 per cent worked in agriculture; 15.8 per cent in the wholesale and retail trades; 10.7 per cent in construction; and 10.5 per cent in education. Those working from home amounted to 32.3 per cent; 15.2 per cent travelled less than 6.2 miles (10 km) to their place of work; and 23.6 per cent travelled more than 25 miles (40 km). The community is included in Pwllheli and Llŷn Regeneration Area and was identified in the Welsh Index of Multiple Deprivation 2005 as the electoral division in Gwynedd
Gwynedd
Gwynedd is a county in north-west Wales, named after the old Kingdom of Gwynedd. Although the second biggest in terms of geographical area, it is also one of the most sparsely populated...
with least access to services; and was ranked 13th in Wales. An agricultural census in 2000 recorded 33,562 sheep, 4,380 calves, 881 beef cattle, 607 dairy cattle, and 18 pigs; there were 310 acres (125.5 ha) of growing crops.
Demography
Aberdaron had a population of 1,019 in 2001, of which 20.6 per cent were below the age of 16, and 18.7 per cent were over 64 years of age. Owner occupiers inhabited 53.7 per cent of the dwellings; and 21.7 per cent were rented; 19.6 per cent were holiday homes. Central heating was installed in 62.8 per cent of dwellings; but 2.4 per cent were without sole use of a bath, shower or toilet. The proportion of households without use of a vehicle was 14.3 per cent; but 40.9 per cent had two or more. The population was predominantly white British; 97.8 per cent identified themselves as such; 71.9 per cent were born in Wales; and 26.9 per cent in England.| Population change in Aberdaron | ||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Year | 1801 | 1811 | 1821 | 1831 | 1841 | 1851 | 1861 | 1871 | 1881 | 1891 |
| Aberdaron | 1,141 | 1,442 | 1,234 | 1,389 | 1,350 | 1,239 | 1,266 | 1,247 | 1,202 | 1,170 |
| Bardsey Island | 71 | 86 | 84 | 90 | 92 | 81 | 84 | 132 | 77 | |
| Bodferin | 58 | 87 | 61 | 56 | 64 | 57 | 50 | 62 | 42 | 45 |
| Llanfaelrhys | 224 | 246 | 262 | 258 | 236 | 255 | 208 | 198 | 186 | 490 |
| Y Rhiw | 282 | 318 | 380 | 358 | 378 | 376 | 370 | 340 | 350 | |
| Total | 1,705 | 2,164 | 2,023 | 2,145 | 2,118 | 2,019 | 1,975 | 1,931 | 1,912 | 1,782 |
| Year | 1901 | 1911 | 1921 | 1931 | 1951 | 1961 | 2001 | |||
| Aberdaron | 1,119 | 1,106 | 1,075 | 983 | 1,275 | 1,161 | 1,019 | |||
| Bardsey Island | 124 | 53 | 58 | 54 | 14 | 17 | ||||
| Bodferin | 49 | 43 | 43 | 36 | ||||||
| Llanfaelrhys | 499 | 495 | 449 | 385 | ||||||
| Y Rhiw | ||||||||||
| Total | 1,791 | 1,697 | 1,625 | 1,458 | 1,289 | 1,178 | 1,019 | |||
Aberdaron
Clough Williams-Ellis
Sir Bertram Clough Williams-Ellis, CBE, MC was an English-born Welsh architect known chiefly as creator of the Italianate village of Portmeirion in North Wales.-Origins, education and early career:...
.
Y Gegin Fawr (The Big Kitchen) was built in the 13th century as a communal kitchen where pilgrims could claim a meal on their way to Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
. Aberdaron was the last place on the route for rest and refreshment and pilgrims often had to wait weeks in the village for a chance to cross the treacherous waters of Bardsey Sound .
Next to the car park is a field, Cae y Grogbren (Gallows Field), near which is a large red rock. In the Middle Ages, the abbot from the monastery on Bardsey Island visited the rock to dispense justice to local criminals; if they were found guilty, the wrongdoer would be hanged and thrown into Pwll Ddiwaelod (The Bottomless Pool). The pool is a kettle lake, formed at the end of the Ice Age
Ice age
An ice age or, more precisely, glacial age, is a generic geological period of long-term reduction in the temperature of the Earth's surface and atmosphere, resulting in the presence or expansion of continental ice sheets, polar ice sheets and alpine glaciers...
, when blocks of ice were trapped underground and melted to form round, deep pools.
Above the village, on the Afon Daron, stands Bodwrdda, an early 16th-century stone-built house, which had a fulling
Fulling
Fulling or tucking or walking is a step in woolen clothmaking which involves the cleansing of cloth to eliminate oils, dirt, and other impurities, and making it thicker. The worker who does the job is a fuller, tucker, or walker...
mill adjacent; two large brick-built wings were added later, giving an imposing three-storey facade containing with 17th century windows. To the south, Penrhyn Mawr is a substantial late 18th century gable-fronted farmhouse.
Bardsey Island
Bardsey IslandBardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
, 1.9 miles (3.1 km) off the mainland, was inhabited in Neolithic
Neolithic
The Neolithic Age, Era, or Period, or New Stone Age, was a period in the development of human technology, beginning about 9500 BC in some parts of the Middle East, and later in other parts of the world. It is traditionally considered as the last part of the Stone Age...
times, and traces of hut circles remain. During the 5th century the island became a refuge for persecuted Christians, and a small Celtic
Celtic Christianity
Celtic Christianity or Insular Christianity refers broadly to certain features of Christianity that were common, or held to be common, across the Celtic-speaking world during the Early Middle Ages...
monastery existed. Saint Cadfan
Saint Cadfan
Saint Cadfan, ; , Abbot of Tywyn and Bardsey was a Breton Saint who lived in 6th century Wales. A Breton nobleman, he was the son of Eneas Ledewig , and Gwen Teirbron, a daughter of Budic II, a King of Brittany.- Associations & Legacy :...
arrived from Brittany
Brittany
Brittany is a cultural and administrative region in the north-west of France. Previously a kingdom and then a duchy, Brittany was united to the Kingdom of France in 1532 as a province. Brittany has also been referred to as Less, Lesser or Little Britain...
in 516 and, under his guidance St Mary's Abbey was built. For centuries the island was important as "the holy place of burial for all the bravest and best in the land". Bards called it "the land of indulgences, absolution and pardon, the road to Heaven, and the gate to Paradise"; and in medieval times three pilgrimages to Bardsey Island were considered to be of equivalent benefit to the soul as one to Rome. In 1188 the abbey was still a Celtic institution, but by 1212 it belonged to the Augustinians. Many people still walk to Aberdaron and Uwchmynydd each year in the footsteps of the saints, although today only ruins of the old abbey's 13th-century bell tower remain. A Celtic cross
Celtic cross
A Celtic cross is a symbol that combines a cross with a ring surrounding the intersection. In the Celtic Christian world it was combined with the Christian cross and this design was often used for high crosses – a free-standing cross made of stone and often richly decorated...
amidst the ruins commemorates the 20,000 saints reputed to be buried on the island.
The island was declared a National Nature Reserve
National Nature Reserve
For details of National nature reserves in the United Kingdom see:*National Nature Reserves in England*National Nature Reserves in Northern Ireland*National Nature Reserves in Scotland*National Nature Reserves in Wales...
in 1986, and is part of Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island Special Protection Area . It is now a favourite bird-watching location, on the migration routes of thousands of birds. Bardsey Bird and Field Observatory , founded in 1953, nets and rings 8,000 birds each year to understand their migration patterns.
Church in Wales
The Church in Wales is the Anglican church in Wales, composed of six dioceses.As with the primus of the Scottish Episcopal Church, the Archbishop of Wales serves concurrently as one of the six diocesan bishops. The current archbishop is Barry Morgan, the Bishop of Llandaff.In contrast to the...
and many Welsh academics and public figures. The trust is financed through membership subscriptions, grants and donations, and is dedicated to protecting the wildlife, buildings and archaeological sites of the island; promoting its artistic and cultural life; and encouraging people to visit as a place of natural beauty and pilgrimage. When, in 2000, the trust advertised for a tenant for the 440 acres (178.1 ha) sheep farm on the island, they had 1,100 applications. The tenancy is now held by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds
Royal Society for the Protection of Birds
Bird Notes and News was first published in April 1903.The title changed to 'Bird Notes' in 1947. In the 1950s, there were four copies per year . Each volume covered two years, spread over three calendar years...
; and the land is managed to maintain the natural habitat. Oats
OATS
OATS - Open Source Assistive Technology Software - is a source code repository or "forge" for assistive technology software. It was launched in 2006 with the goal to provide a one-stop “shop” for end users, clinicians and open-source developers to promote and develop open source assistive...
, turnips and swedes
Rutabaga
The rutabaga, swede , turnip or yellow turnip is a root vegetable that originated as a cross between the cabbage and the turnip; see Triangle of U...
are grown; goats, ducks, geese and chickens kept; and there is a mixed flock of sheep
Domestic sheep
Sheep are quadrupedal, ruminant mammals typically kept as livestock. Like all ruminants, sheep are members of the order Artiodactyla, the even-toed ungulates. Although the name "sheep" applies to many species in the genus Ovis, in everyday usage it almost always refers to Ovis aries...
and Welsh black cattle
Welsh Black
The Welsh Black is a dual-purpose breed of cattle native to Wales.-History:Commercial exploitation of the breed meant that drovers would herd them to English markets. Herds from south west Wales travelled towards Hereford and Gloucester up the Tywi Valley to Llandovery. Herds from South...
.
Llanfaelrhys
Porth Ysgo, owned by the National TrustNational Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty
The National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty, usually known as the National Trust, is a conservation organisation in England, Wales and Northern Ireland...
, is reached by a steep slope from Llanfaelrhys
Llanfaelrhys
Llanfaelrhys is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd, located on the Llŷn Peninsula. The parish was abolished in 1934 and incorporated into Aberdaron.-External links:...
, 3.3 miles (5.3 km) east of Aberdaron, past a disused manganese mine in Nant y Gadwen; the mine closed in 1927, and produced 45644 long tons (46,376.6 t) in its lifetime. Where the path from Ysgo reaches the beach, a waterfall, Pistyll y Gaseg, tumbles over the cliff. At the eastern end of the bay is Porth Alwm, where the stream from Nant y Gadwen flows into the sea. The south-facing beach is composed of fine, firm sand.
To the west, King Arthur
King Arthur
King Arthur is a legendary British leader of the late 5th and early 6th centuries, who, according to Medieval histories and romances, led the defence of Britain against Saxon invaders in the early 6th century. The details of Arthur's story are mainly composed of folklore and literary invention, and...
's last battle against his arch enemy, Mordred
Mordred
Mordred or Modred is a character in the Arthurian legend, known as a notorious traitor who fought King Arthur at the Battle of Camlann, where he was killed and Arthur fatally wounded. Tradition varies on his relationship to Arthur, but he is best known today as Arthur's illegitimate son by his...
, was supposedly fought in the fields around Porth Cadlan. Offshore lies a rock, Maen Gwenonwy, named after Arthur's sister.
Lladron Maelrhys are two large stones on the border between Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw. It is claimed that, years ago, thieves broke into St Maelrhys Church, intent on stealing money. Caught in the act, they fled for their lives but were caught as they approached Y Rhiw, and killed on the spot; the stones mark their burial place. Another version claims that as they crossed the parish boundary they were turned to stone for their sacrilege.
Porthor
Cove
A cove is a small type of bay or coastal inlet. They usually have narrow, restricted entrances, are often circular or oval, and are often inside a larger bay. Small, narrow, sheltered bays, inlets, creeks, or recesses in a coast are often considered coves...
3.2 miles (5.1 km) north of Aberdaron that has smooth white sand; when dry, the sand whistles, or squeaks, underfoot. The crescent-shaped beach is backed by steep cliffs of relatively hard rock, from which the cove has been sculpted by the rough seas. The bay is the centre of a National Trust
National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty
The National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty, usually known as the National Trust, is a conservation organisation in England, Wales and Northern Ireland...
estate which consists of 420 acres (170 ha) of shoreline, headland and farmland, and includes Mynydd Carreg and Mynydd Anelog.
On the hill summits that dot the headlands are heather
Calluna
Calluna vulgaris is the sole species in the genus Calluna in the family Ericaceae. It is a low-growing perennial shrub growing to tall, or rarely to and taller, and is found widely in Europe and Asia Minor on acidic soils in open sunny situations and in moderate shade...
and gorse, shaped by the prevailing wind; thrift
Armeria maritima
Armeria maritima is the botanical name for a species of flowering plant.It is a popular garden flower, known by several common names, including thrift, sea thrift, and sea pink. The plant has been distributed worldwide as a garden and cut flower...
and wild thyme thrive on the acidic soil. The cliffs are a stronghold of the chough
Red-billed Chough
The Red-billed Chough or Chough , Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax, is a bird in the crow family; it is one of only two species in the genus Pyrrhocorax...
, and a nesting place for razorbills and guillemots
Common Guillemot
The Common Murre or Common Guillemot is a large auk. It is also known as the Thin-billed Murre in North America. It has a circumpolar distribution, occurring in low-Arctic and boreal waters in the North-Atlantic and North Pacific...
. On the lower rocks, in reach of the waves, are plentiful lichens, seaweeds, sponges, limpets and barnacles.
Iron Age
The Iron Age is the archaeological period generally occurring after the Bronze Age, marked by the prevalent use of iron. The early period of the age is characterized by the widespread use of iron or steel. The adoption of such material coincided with other changes in society, including differing...
. Kittiwakes
Black-legged Kittiwake
The Black-legged Kittiwake is a seabird species in the gull family Laridae.This species was first described by Linnaeus in his Systema naturae in 1758 as Larus tridactylus....
, cormorants
Great Cormorant
The Great Cormorant , known as the Great Black Cormorant across the Northern Hemisphere, the Black Cormorant in Australia and the Black Shag further south in New Zealand, is a widespread member of the cormorant family of seabirds...
and shags can be seen on the cliffs, while farm birds such as the yellowhammer
Yellowhammer
The Yellowhammer, Emberiza citrinella, is a passerine bird in the bunting family Emberizidae. It is common in all sorts of open areas with some scrub or trees and form small flocks in winter....
frequent the gorse. On Mynydd Anelog, experimental plots have been marked out to monitor different methods of managing heather to discover the best way the habitat can be conserved for the future.
North of Porthor is Porth Iago, a south-facing narrow inlet and rocky cove, which has a small beach and steep cliffs.
Rhoshirwaun
Rhoshirwaun lies 2.1 miles (3.4 km) to the north east of Aberdaron, and was formerly a marshMarsh
In geography, a marsh, or morass, is a type of wetland that is subject to frequent or continuous flood. Typically the water is shallow and features grasses, rushes, reeds, typhas, sedges, other herbaceous plants, and moss....
y area. It provided fuel from peat cuttings, pasture for animals and accommodated squatters, mainly fishermen, who had encroached on the common with the tacit acceptance of the community. An inclosure act was drawn up in 1802, designed to remove all squatters who had been there less than 20 years. Resistance to the evictions was fierce and was only suppressed by a contingent of dragoons. The act was finally applied in 1814; new roads were built across the moor; boundaries were established; allotments allocated; and wetland reclaimed.
Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum, is one of Europe's earliest Iron Age Settlements, standing 480 feet (146.3 m) above sea level. The hillfort
Hillforts in Britain
Hillforts in Britain refers to the various hillforts within the island of Great Britain. Although the earliest such constructs fitting this description come from the Neolithic period, with a few also dating to the later Bronze Age, British hill forts were primarily constructed during the Iron Age...
, 165 feet (50.3 m) in diameter, has visible traces of eight circular huts; pottery found on the site dates from 425 BC. Legend has it that a giant, Odo Gawr, is buried under a cairn of stones on the summit; nearby is a huge rock known as Carreg Samson, supposedly thrown from Uwchmynydd by Samson
Samson
Samson, Shimshon ; Shamshoun or Sampson is the third to last of the Judges of the ancient Israelites mentioned in the Tanakh ....
. The holes in the rock are said to be the imprint of his fingers; a pot of gold reputedly lies underneath.
To the east of the village, Felin Uchaf is an educational centre exploring ways of living and working in partnership with the environment. Developed on a redundant farm, it provides residential courses in rural skills and sustainable agriculture. A traditional Iron Age
Iron Age
The Iron Age is the archaeological period generally occurring after the Bronze Age, marked by the prevalent use of iron. The early period of the age is characterized by the widespread use of iron or steel. The adoption of such material coincided with other changes in society, including differing...
roundhouse has been built on the site.
Uwchmynydd
Uwchmynydd, 1.8 miles (2.9 km) to the south west of Aberdaron, has a long history of human settlement. MesolithicMesolithic
The Mesolithic is an archaeological concept used to refer to certain groups of archaeological cultures defined as falling between the Paleolithic and the Neolithic....
flints have been found in the area, and a Neolithic stone axe was discovered on Mynydd Mawr. Hut circles are visible on the summits, and part of a Roman
Ancient Rome
Ancient Rome was a thriving civilization that grew on the Italian Peninsula as early as the 8th century BC. Located along the Mediterranean Sea and centered on the city of Rome, it expanded to one of the largest empires in the ancient world....
anchor was recovered off Trwyn Bychestyn.
At Mynydd Mawr the picnic site
Picnic
In contemporary usage, a picnic can be defined simply as a pleasure excursion at which a meal is eaten outdoors , ideally taking place in a beautiful landscape such as a park, beside a lake or with an interesting view and possibly at a public event such as before an open air theatre performance,...
has views which, on a fine day, take in Cardigan Bay
Cardigan Bay
Cardigan Bay is a large inlet of the Irish Sea, indenting the west coast of Wales between Bardsey Island, Gwynedd in the north, and Strumble Head, Pembrokeshire at its southern end. It is the largest bay in Wales....
, Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
and the Wicklow Mountains
Wicklow Mountains
The Wicklow Mountains form the largest continuous upland area in Ireland. They occupy the whole centre of County Wicklow and stretch outside its borders into Counties Carlow, Wexford and Dublin. Where the mountains extend into County Dublin, they are known locally as the Dublin Mountains...
; at night, South Stack Lighthouse
South Stack
South Stack is an island situated just off Holy Island on the North West coast of Anglesey. It is famous as the location of one of Wales' most spectacular lighthouses.-South Stack Lighthouse:...
is visible in the distance. A road to the summit, owned by the National Trust
National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty
The National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty, usually known as the National Trust, is a conservation organisation in England, Wales and Northern Ireland...
, was built during the Second World War to provide access to the heights, where men were posted to give early warning to Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool is a city and metropolitan borough of Merseyside, England, along the eastern side of the Mersey Estuary. It was founded as a borough in 1207 and was granted city status in 1880...
of Luftwaffe air raids. The former Coastguard
Her Majesty's Coastguard
Her Majesty's Coastguard is the service of the government of the United Kingdom concerned with co-ordinating air-sea rescue.HM Coastguard is a section of the Maritime and Coastguard Agency responsible for the initiation and co-ordination of all civilian maritime Search and Rescue within the UK...
lookout point, manned for almost 80 years before becoming redundant in 1990, provides views over Bardsey Sound to the island. The hut contains an exhibition to the natural history of the area, and a mural created by local children.
The headland at Braich y Pwll is the only known location on the British mainland of the spotted rock rose
Tuberaria guttata
Tuberaria guttata, the spotted rockrose, is a common plant of the Mediterranean region which also occurs very locally in Wales and Ireland. The flowers are very variable with the characteristic spot at the base of the petal very variable in size and intensity of colour.The plant typically grows in...
, which produces bright yellow petals that last only one day. The coast here has open grass heath land and mountain, giving way to rugged sea cliffs and coves. There is a profusion of wildlife, and it is an ideal vantage point to watch the spring and autumn bird migrations. Chough
Red-billed Chough
The Red-billed Chough or Chough , Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax, is a bird in the crow family; it is one of only two species in the genus Pyrrhocorax...
s, peregrine falcon
Peregrine Falcon
The Peregrine Falcon , also known as the Peregrine, and historically as the Duck Hawk in North America, is a widespread bird of prey in the family Falconidae. A large, crow-sized falcon, it has a blue-gray back, barred white underparts, and a black head and "moustache"...
s, kestrels
Common Kestrel
The Common Kestrel is a bird of prey species belonging to the kestrel group of the falcon family Falconidae. It is also known as the European Kestrel, Eurasian Kestrel, or Old World Kestrel. In Britain, where no other brown falcon occurs, it is generally just called "the kestrel".This species...
, puffins
Atlantic Puffin
The Atlantic Puffin is a seabird species in the auk family. It is a pelagic bird that feeds primarily by diving for fish, but also eats other sea creatures, such as squid and crustaceans. Its most obvious characteristic during the breeding season is its brightly coloured bill...
, stonechats
European Stonechat
The European Stonechat is a small passerine bird that was formerly classed as a subspecies of the Common Stonechat. Long considered a member of the thrush family Turdidae, genetic evidence has placed it and its relatives in the Old World flycatcher family Muscicapidae.It is 11.5–13 cm long and...
, guillemots
Common Guillemot
The Common Murre or Common Guillemot is a large auk. It is also known as the Thin-billed Murre in North America. It has a circumpolar distribution, occurring in low-Arctic and boreal waters in the North-Atlantic and North Pacific...
and Manx shearwater
Manx Shearwater
The Manx Shearwater is a medium-sized shearwater in the seabird family Procellariidae. The scientific name of this species records a name shift: Manx Shearwaters were called Manks Puffins in the 17th century. Puffin is an Anglo-Norman word for the cured carcasses of nestling shearwaters...
s can be seen, and dolphins, porpoises and seals can be spotted in the water.
Above the sea cliffs are the remains of Capel Mair (St Mary's Chapel), where it was customary for pilgrims to invoke the protection of the Virgin Mary before making the dangerous crossing to Bardsey Island. At the foot of Mynydd Mawr is Ffynnon Fair (St Mary's Well), the last stop for pilgrims crossing to the island; the well is a freshwater spring which is covered twice daily by the sea, emerging from the ebbing tide with crystal clear water.
Cwrt (Court), now a large farm, was the administrative centre of Bardsey Abbey's mainland estates, and was known as the "Court of Bardsey". The steepest cliffs in the Llŷn Peninsula
Llŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
are at Y Parwyd, the scene of a local ghost story. In 1794 a newly married couple moved into a cottage nearby. Within a few years they were disturbed by a phantom, but when they read a verse from the Bible, the phantom would retreat towards Y Parwyd and hover over the cliff edge before disappearing; the couple finally moved to Bodferin
Bodferin
Bodferin is a former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. It was abolished in 1934, and incorporated into Aberdaron....
. In 1801 a ship pilot was put ashore on the rocks below the cliffs. Although very drunk, he managed to climb the cliff face and, reaching the top, fell asleep in a sheep pen. In the early morning, he awoke and, still drunk, headed for home; he walked in the wrong direction, however, and disappeared over the cliff edge into the sea.
The traditional embarkation point for pilgrims crossing to Bardsey Island was at Porth Meudwy (Hermit's Cove), now a lobster fishing
Lobster fishing
Lobster fishing, sometimes called lobstering, is the commercial or recreational harvesting of marine lobsters, spiny lobsters or crayfish.-Lobster tools and technology:...
cove. Further south is Porth y Pistyll, which has good views of Ynysoedd Gwylanod, home to puffin and guillemot colonies; and Pen y Cil, where the Precambrian
Precambrian
The Precambrian is the name which describes the large span of time in Earth's history before the current Phanerozoic Eon, and is a Supereon divided into several eons of the geologic time scale...
pillow lavas are exposed, revealing how they have been contorted over time.
Y Rhiw
The mountain-top hamlet of Y Rhiw is 3.9 miles (6.3 km) to the east. There are fine views of Llŷn
Llŷn Peninsula
The Llŷn Peninsula extends into the Irish Sea from north west Wales, south west of the Isle of Anglesey. It is part of the modern county and historic region of Gwynedd. The name is thought to be of Irish origin, and to have the same root Laigin in Irish as the word Leinster...
towards Snowdonia
Snowdonia
Snowdonia is a region in north Wales and a national park of in area. It was the first to be designated of the three National Parks in Wales, in 1951.-Name and extent:...
. On the slopes of Mynydd Rhiw is a late Stone Age
Stone Age
The Stone Age is a broad prehistoric period, lasting about 2.5 million years , during which humans and their predecessor species in the genus Homo, as well as the earlier partly contemporary genera Australopithecus and Paranthropus, widely used exclusively stone as their hard material in the...
burial chamber, and Neolithic quarries. Nearby on Mynydd y Graig are three hillforts
Hillforts in Britain
Hillforts in Britain refers to the various hillforts within the island of Great Britain. Although the earliest such constructs fitting this description come from the Neolithic period, with a few also dating to the later Bronze Age, British hill forts were primarily constructed during the Iron Age...
, several hut circles and terraced fields that are thought to date from the late Iron Age
Iron Age
The Iron Age is the archaeological period generally occurring after the Bronze Age, marked by the prevalent use of iron. The early period of the age is characterized by the widespread use of iron or steel. The adoption of such material coincided with other changes in society, including differing...
; in 1955 a Bronze Age
Bronze Age
The Bronze Age is a period characterized by the use of copper and its alloy bronze as the chief hard materials in the manufacture of some implements and weapons. Chronologically, it stands between the Stone Age and Iron Age...
cinerary urn was uncovered in the village.
Plas yn Rhiw, owned by the National Trust
National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty
The National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty, usually known as the National Trust, is a conservation organisation in England, Wales and Northern Ireland...
, is an early 17th-century house that was restored by the Keating sisters in 1939, with advice from Clough Williams-Ellis
Clough Williams-Ellis
Sir Bertram Clough Williams-Ellis, CBE, MC was an English-born Welsh architect known chiefly as creator of the Italianate village of Portmeirion in North Wales.-Origins, education and early career:...
. It is believed that the house is on or near the site of an earlier defended house, built by Meirion Goch in the 10th century to prevent incursions by Vikings into Porth Neigwl.
Transport
Aberdaron lies at the western end of the B4413 roadB roads in Zone 4 of the Great Britain numbering scheme
B roads are numbered routes in Great Britain of lesser importance than A roads. See the article Great Britain road numbering scheme for the rationale behind the numbers allocated.-3 digits:-4 digits :-4 digits :-4 digits :...
. The road runs east to Llanbedrog
Llanbedrog
Llanbedrog is a village and community on the Llŷn peninsula of Gwynedd in Wales. It is situated on the south side of the peninsula on the A499 between Pwllheli and Abersoch. Formerly in the county of Caernarfonshire, it has a population of 1,020....
, where it connects with the A499 Pwllheli
Pwllheli
Pwllheli is a community and the main market town of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, north-western Wales. It has a population of 3,861, of which a large proportion, 81 per cent, are Welsh speaking. Pwllheli is the place where Plaid Cymru was founded. It is the birthplace of Albert Evans-Jones -...
to Abersoch
Abersoch
Abersoch is a large village in the community of Llanengan in Gwynedd, Wales. It is a popular coastal seaside resort with approximately 1,000 inhabitants, on the east-facing south coast of the Llŷn Peninsula at the southern terminus of the A499. It is about south-west of Pwllheli and south-west of...
road.
Buses are provided by two companies. Service 17 is operated by Nefyn Coaches, with six Monday to Saturday return journeys on the Pwllheli–Llanbedrog–Mynytho
Mynytho
Mynytho is a small village in the parish of Llangian near the southern coast of the Llŷn Peninsula in north-west Wales. It consists of only a few houses, beautiful scenery and some farmland...
–Nanhoron–Botwnnog
Botwnnog
Botwnnog is a village and community in Gwynedd in Wales, located on the Llŷn Peninsula. It has a population of 955.It lies between Mynytho and Sarn Meyllteyrn, and is the home to two schools, a primary Pont Y Gof Primary School, and secondary . It also has the main branch of general practician ...
–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Penygroeslon–Rhoshirwaun–Aberdaron route. Two of the Aberdaron bound journeys divert through Bryn-croes. Arriva Buses Wales
Arriva Buses Wales
Arriva Buses Wales is a division of Arriva that operates bus services in north Wales. It has its origins in the former Crosville Motor Services. Arriva Buses Wales has approximately 700 employees. The company's official name is Arriva Cymru Ltd.-History:...
provide a late night return journey on Saturdays. Service 17 is supplemented by Nefyn Coaches service 17b, running return journeys twice a day, Monday to Saturday, largely over the same route, but with diversions to serve Penllech
Penllech
Penllech is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The parish was abolished in 1934, and incorporated into Tudweiliog....
and Llangwnnad towards Aberdaron, or Penycaerau and Y Rhiw heading back to Pwllheli.
The irregular Nefyn Coaches service 8b has an early morning weekday Nefyn
Nefyn
Nefyn is a small town and community on the north west coast of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, Wales, with a population of 2,619. Welsh is the first language of almost 80% of its inhabitants. The A497 road terminates in the town centre.-History:...
–Tudweiliog
Tudweiliog
Tudweiliog is a small, predominantly Welsh speaking village and community on the northern coast of the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd...
–Llangwnnadl
Llangwnnadl
Llangwnnadl is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The parish was abolished in 1934, and incorporated into Tudweiliog....
–Penygroeslon–Rhydlios bus, which operates only during school holidays. On Wednesdays throughout the year, a return journey runs the Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd–Aberdaron–Penycaerau–Y Rhiw–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedrog–Pwllheli route. On other weekdays a Nefyn–Tudweiliog–Llangwnnadl–Penygroeslon–Aberdaron–Uwchmynydd bus runs. On Wednesdays during school terms, an afternoon journey runs on the Y Rhiw–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedgrog–Pwllheli route. At weekends, a Saturday morning bus operates Nefyn–Dinas–Rhos-ddu–Brynmawr–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Pant–Uwchmynydd. This then makes a journey through the heart of Llŷn on the Uwchmynydd–Porth Or–Rhydlios–Pant–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Brynmawr–Rhos-ddu–Dinas–Llaniestyn–Garnfadryn–Rhyd-y-clafdy–Efailnewydd
Efailnewydd
Efailnewydd is a village on the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. It lies 1.2 miles north west to the market town of Pwllheli. The village forms part of the community of Llannor along with the villages of Abererch and Rhos-fawr.Pwllheli Rugby Club's playing field and clubhouse are...
–Pwllheli route, returning in the afternoon. It completes the day retracing its steps over the Uwchmynydd–Pant–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Brynmawr–Rhos-ddu–Dinas–Nefyn route.
On weekdays other than Wednesdays, Nefyn Coaches service 334 runs a morning Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd–Aberdaron–Penygroeslon–Llangwnnadl–Tudweiliog–Nefyn route. A second journey at midday operates from Uwchmynydd over the same route to Nefyn, and on to Pwllheli. Each weekday, an early evening bus runs the Penygroeslon–Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd route, while on Wednesdays during school holidays an afternoon Rhydlios–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedrog–Pwllheli bus runs.
Bardsey Boat Trips operates passenger ferries between Porth Meudwy and Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
. These are supplemented by Enlli Charters, who sail between Pwllheli and the island.
The nearest railway station is at Pwllheli, 14.8 miles (23.8 km) to the east, on the Cambrian Coast Line to Machynlleth
Machynlleth
Machynlleth is a market town in Powys, Wales. It is in the Dyfi Valley at the intersection of the A487 and the A489 roads.Machynlleth was the seat of Owain Glyndŵr's Welsh Parliament in 1404, and as such claims to be the "ancient capital of Wales". However, it has never held any official...
. Services are provided by Arriva Trains Wales
Arriva Trains Wales
Arriva Trains Wales is a train operating company, owned by Arriva, that operates urban and inter urban passenger services in Wales and the Welsh Marches...
, with some trains continuing to Shrewsbury
Shrewsbury
Shrewsbury is the county town of Shropshire, in the West Midlands region of England. Lying on the River Severn, it is a civil parish home to some 70,000 inhabitants, and is the primary settlement and headquarters of Shropshire Council...
and Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham is a city and metropolitan borough in the West Midlands of England. It is the most populous British city outside the capital London, with a population of 1,036,900 , and lies at the heart of the West Midlands conurbation, the second most populous urban area in the United Kingdom with a...
.
Public services
Water and sanitation are provided by Dŵr CymruWelsh Water
Dŵr Cymru Welsh Water is a company which supplies drinking water and wastewater services to most of Wales and parts of western England.It is regulated under the Water Industry Act 1991.-History:...
(Welsh Water), owned by Glas Cymru, a company limited by guarantee
Company limited by guarantee
In British and Irish company law, a private company limited by guarantee is an alternative type of corporation used primarily for non-profit organisations that require legal personality. A guarantee company does not usually have a share capital or shareholders, but instead has members who act as...
. The electricity distribution company
Distribution Network Operator
Distribution network operators are companies licensed to distribute electricity in Great Britain by the Office of Gas and Electricity Markets....
is Scottish Power
Scottish Power
ScottishPower Ltd. is a vertically integrated energy company with its headquarters in Glasgow, Scotland. It was listed on the London Stock Exchange and was once a constituent of the FTSE 100 Index but in 2006 it became a subsidiary of the Spanish utility Iberdrola...
, a subsidiary of the Basque
Basque Country (autonomous community)
The Basque Country is an autonomous community of northern Spain. It includes the Basque provinces of Álava, Biscay and Gipuzkoa, also called Historical Territories....
utility Iberdrola
Iberdrola
Iberdrola , headquartered in Bilbao, is a private utility with a global footprint and over 150 years of experience...
.
Welsh Ambulance Services
Welsh Ambulance Services NHS Trust
The Welsh Ambulance Services NHS Trust is an NHS trust which manages all ambulance services for the National Health Service in Wales. The trust has its headquarters in H.M. Stanley Hospital, St Asaph, Denbighshire....
provide ambulance and paramedic services; and North West Wales NHS Trust is responsible for hospital services. The nearest community hospital is Ysbyty Bryn Beryl at Pwllheli
Pwllheli
Pwllheli is a community and the main market town of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, north-western Wales. It has a population of 3,861, of which a large proportion, 81 per cent, are Welsh speaking. Pwllheli is the place where Plaid Cymru was founded. It is the birthplace of Albert Evans-Jones -...
; for 24-hour accident and emergency services the nearest provision is at Ysbyty Gwynedd in Bangor
Bangor, Gwynedd
Bangor is a city in Gwynedd, north west Wales, and one of the smallest cities in Britain. It is a university city with a population of 13,725 at the 2001 census, not including around 10,000 students at Bangor University. Including nearby Menai Bridge on Anglesey, which does not however form part of...
. The general provision of health services is the responsibility of Gwynedd Local Health Board .
Law enforcement is the responsibility of North Wales Police
North Wales Police
North Wales Police is the territorial police force responsible for policing North Wales. The headquarters are in Colwyn Bay, with divisional headquarters in St Asaph, Caernarfon and Wrexham....
, formed in 1967 as Gwynedd Constabulary. North Wales Fire and Rescue Service
North Wales Fire and Rescue Service
The North Wales Fire and Rescue Service is the fire and rescue service covering the predominantly rural principal areas of Anglesey, Conwy, Denbighshire, Flintshire, Gwynedd and Wrexham in the north of Wales....
was created in 1996 by the merger of the Gwynedd
Gwynedd
Gwynedd is a county in north-west Wales, named after the old Kingdom of Gwynedd. Although the second biggest in terms of geographical area, it is also one of the most sparsely populated...
and Clwyd
Clwyd
Clwyd is a preserved county of Wales, situated in the north-east, bordering England with Cheshire to its east, Shropshire to the south-east, and the Welsh counties of Gwynedd to its immediate west and Powys to the south. It additionally shares a maritime border with the metropolitan county of...
fire brigades; it provides public protection services, operating out of the fire station at Abersoch
Abersoch
Abersoch is a large village in the community of Llanengan in Gwynedd, Wales. It is a popular coastal seaside resort with approximately 1,000 inhabitants, on the east-facing south coast of the Llŷn Peninsula at the southern terminus of the A499. It is about south-west of Pwllheli and south-west of...
.
Education
In the early 19th century there was a school for poor children, which moved in a four year cycle between Aberdaron, LlanfaelrhysLlanfaelrhys
Llanfaelrhys is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd, located on the Llŷn Peninsula. The parish was abolished in 1934 and incorporated into Aberdaron.-External links:...
, Bryncroes
Bryncroes
Bryncroes is a hamlet and former civil parish in Gwynedd in Wales, and lies on the Llŷn Peninsula approximately 2 km west of Sarn Mellteyrn. The parish was abolished in 1934 and divided between Botwnnog and Aberdaron. The village was the scene of fierce protests between 1969 and 1972 when it...
and Y Rhiw. The Elementary Education Act 1870
Elementary Education Act 1870
The Elementary Education Act 1870, commonly known as Forster's Education Act, set the framework for schooling of all children between ages 5 and 12 in England and Wales...
provided for local school boards, but was opposed by the established church. The process of establishing boards was lengthy, and the government had to enforce the regulations in Aberdaron, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw; the national school
National school (England and Wales)
A national school was a school founded in 19th century England and Wales by the National Society for Promoting Religious Education.These schools provided elementary education, in accordance with the teaching of the Church of England, to the children of the poor.Together with the less numerous...
opened at Y Rhiw in 1877 and had 74 pupils on its register; it closed in 1965.
Primary education
Primary Education in Wales
Primary Education in Wales has a similar structure to Primary Education in England, but teaching of the Welsh language is compulsory and it is used as the medium of instruction in many schools...
is now provided by Ysgol Crud y Werin in Aberdaron, which has 54 pupils, and by Ysgol Llidiardau in Rhoshirwaun, established in 1880, which has 21 pupils. At the last inspection of Ysgol Crud y Werin, by Estyn
Estyn
Estyn is the education and training inspectorate for Wales. Its name comes from the Welsh language verb meaning "to extend". Its mission is to achieve excellence for all in learning in Wales by providing an independent, high quality inspection and advice service to the Welsh Assembly Government and...
in 2008, there were no pupils entitled to free school meals, and 84 per cent came from homes where Welsh was the main spoken language; Welsh is the main medium of teaching. Ysgol Llidiardau was last inspected in 2009; 18 per cent of pupils were entitled to free school meals and 36 per cent came from homes where Welsh was the predominant language. Secondary school pupils mainly attend Ysgol Botwnnog.
Culture
Aberdaron is a predominantly Welsh-speaking community; 75.2 per cent of the population speak the language. A mobile library visits a number of sites in the community each week; and Llanw Llŷn, a papur bro published in AbersochAbersoch
Abersoch is a large village in the community of Llanengan in Gwynedd, Wales. It is a popular coastal seaside resort with approximately 1,000 inhabitants, on the east-facing south coast of the Llŷn Peninsula at the southern terminus of the A499. It is about south-west of Pwllheli and south-west of...
, serves the area; the local English newspapers are the Caernarfon and Denbigh Herald, published in Caernarfon
Caernarfon
Caernarfon is a Royal town, community and port in Gwynedd, Wales, with a population of 9,611. It lies along the A487 road, on the east banks of the Menai Straits, opposite the Isle of Anglesey. The city of Bangor is to the northeast, while Snowdonia fringes Caernarfon to the east and southeast...
; and the Cambrian News
Cambrian News
The Cambrian News is a weekly newspaper distributed in Wales. It was founded in 1860 and is based in Cefn Llan Science Park, Aberystwyth. Cambrian News Ltd was bought by media entrepreneur Sir Ray Tindle in 1998.- History :...
, published in Aberystwyth
Aberystwyth
Aberystwyth is a historic market town, administrative centre and holiday resort within Ceredigion, Wales. Often colloquially known as Aber, it is located at the confluence of the rivers Ystwyth and Rheidol....
. Summer harp recitals and concerts are held in St Hywyn's Church; Gŵyl Pen Draw'r Byd (The Land's End Festival) is a yearly event which includes beach side concerts and competitions on the shore, with an evening concert at Morfa Mawr Farm; Gŵyl Pentre Coll (The Lost Village Festival), a festival of contemporary acoustic music, has been held since 2008 at Felin Uchaf in Rhoshirwaun; and a local eisteddfod, Eisteddfod Flynyddol Uwchmynydd, is held at Ysgol Crud y Werin.
The poet Ronald Stuart Thomas
R. S. Thomas
Ronald Stuart Thomas was a Welsh poet and Anglican clergyman, noted for his nationalism, spirituality and deep dislike of the anglicisation of Wales...
was vicar of St Hywyn's Church from 1967 to 1978; when he retired he lived for some years in Y Rhiw. An ardent Welsh nationalist who learnt to speak Welsh, his poetry was based on his religious faith. In 1995 he was nominated for the Nobel Prize in Literature
Nobel Prize in Literature
Since 1901, the Nobel Prize in Literature has been awarded annually to an author from any country who has, in the words from the will of Alfred Nobel, produced "in the field of literature the most outstanding work in an ideal direction"...
, and he was widely regarded as the best religious poet of his time. The subject of one of Thomas's poems, Richard Robert Jones, better known as "Dic Aberdaron
Dic Aberdaron
Dic Aberdaron was a Welsh traveller and polyglot. He had little or no formal education, but was reputed to have taught himself 14 or 15 languages, both ancient and modern, including Latin at the age of 11....
", was born in the village in 1780. Despite very little formal education, he is said to have been fluent in 14 languages, and spent years travelling the country accompanied by his books and his cat.
Roy Campbell (poet)
Ignatius Royston Dunnachie Campbell, better known as Roy Campbell, was an Anglo-African poet and satirist. He was considered by T. S. Eliot, Dylan Thomas and Edith Sitwell to have been one of the best poets of the period between the First and Second World Wars...
published The Flaming Terrapin, written in a "croglofft cottage" above Porth Ysgo, in 1922; he was considered to be one of the best poets of the period between the two world wars. Considered one of the most significant Welsh poets of the 15th century, Dafydd Nanmor
Dafydd Nanmor
Dafydd Nanmor was a Welsh language poet born at Nanmor , in Gwynedd, north-west Wales. He is one of the most significant poets of this period....
, in Gwallt Llio, compared the striking yellow colour of the rocks at Uwchmynydd, covered by golden hair lichen
Teloschistes
Teloschistes is a genus of lichenized fungi in the family Teloschistaceae.-External links:*...
, to the colour of his loved one's hair. Lewys Daron
Lewys Daron
Lewys Daron was a Welsh-language professional poet from the Llŷn area of Gwynedd, Wales. Although not considered to be one of the foremost of the Poets of the Nobility, his work provides a portrait of the gentry society of north-west Wales at the start of the Tudor period.On the basis of his name...
, a 16th-century poet best known for his elegy to friend and fellow poet Tudur Aled
Tudur Aled
Tudur Aled was a late medieval Welsh poet, born in Llansannan, Denbighshire.He is regarded as one of the finest poets of his period and was a master of cynghanedd....
, is thought to have been born in Aberdaron.
Yorkshire-born poet Christine Evans
Christine Evans (poet)
Christine Evans is an English poet who was born in West Riding, Yorkshire.Evans lives half the year on Bardsey Island, spending winters at Uwchmynydd. In 1967 she moved to Pwllheli, where her father and grandmother were brought up, to work as a teacher, and married into a Bardsey Island farming...
lives half the year on Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
and spends the winters at Uwchmynydd. She moved to Pwllheli
Pwllheli
Pwllheli is a community and the main market town of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, north-western Wales. It has a population of 3,861, of which a large proportion, 81 per cent, are Welsh speaking. Pwllheli is the place where Plaid Cymru was founded. It is the birthplace of Albert Evans-Jones -...
as a teacher and married into a Bardsey Island farming family. On maternity leave in 1976, she started writing poems; her first book was published seven years later. Cometary Phrases was Welsh Book of the Year 1989 and she was the winner of the inaugural Roland Mathias Prize in 2005.
Edgar Ewart Pritchard, an amateur film-maker from Brownhills
Brownhills
Brownhills is a town in the West Midlands, England. Located on the edge of Cannock Chase near the large artificial lake Chasewater, it is north-east of Walsall and a similar distance south-west of Lichfield. It is part of the Metropolitan Borough of Walsall and the Aldridge-Brownhills...
, produced "The Island in the Current", a colour movie of life on Bardsey Island, in 1953; a copy of the film is held by the National Screen and Sound Archive of Wales. A candle lantern, discovered in 1946 in a cowshed at Y Rhiw, is now displayed in St Fagans National History Museum
St Fagans National History Museum
St Fagans National History Museum , commonly referred to as St Fagans after the village where it is located, is an open-air museum in Cardiff chronicling the historical lifestyle, culture and architecture of the Welsh people...
; and Iron Age
Iron Age
The Iron Age is the archaeological period generally occurring after the Bronze Age, marked by the prevalent use of iron. The early period of the age is characterized by the widespread use of iron or steel. The adoption of such material coincided with other changes in society, including differing...
pottery found at Castell Odo is on display at Gwynedd Museum and Art Gallery in Bangor
Bangor, Gwynedd
Bangor is a city in Gwynedd, north west Wales, and one of the smallest cities in Britain. It is a university city with a population of 13,725 at the 2001 census, not including around 10,000 students at Bangor University. Including nearby Menai Bridge on Anglesey, which does not however form part of...
.
Dilys Cadwaladr
Dilys Cadwaladr
Dilys Cadwaladr was a Welsh poet.She is notable for being the first woman ever to win the Crown at the National Eisteddfod of Wales. She achieved this feat in 1953 at Rhyl.-References:...
, the former school teacher on Bardsey Island, in 1953 became the first woman to win the Crown at the National Eisteddfod for her long poem Y Llen; and artist Brenda Chamberlain
Brenda Chamberlain (artist)
Brenda Chamberlain was a Welsh artist and poet.Born in Bangor, Wales, she studied art at the Royal Academy in London, but simultaneously developed an interest in poetry. Just before the Second World War, she moved in with artist John Petts, and together they set up the Caseg Press at their home...
twice won the Gold Medal for Art at the Eisteddfod; some of the murals she painted can still be seen on the walls of Carreg, her island home from 1947 to 1962. Wildlife artist Kim Atkinson, whose work has been widely exhibited in Wales and England, spent her childhood on the island and returned to live there in the 1980s.
Since 1999, Bardsey Island Trust has appointed an Artist in Residence to spend several weeks on the island producing work which is later exhibited on the mainland. A Welsh literary residence was created in 2002; singer-songwriter Fflur Dafydd
Fflur Dafydd
Fflur Dafydd is an award winning novelist, singer-songwriter and musician. Whilst predominantly publishing in Welsh, she also writes in English. She records in Welsh, and her work is regularly played on Radio Cymru.-Early life:...
spent six weeks working on a collection of poetry and prose. Her play Hugo was inspired by her stay, and she has produced two novels, Atyniad (Attraction), which won the prose medal at the 2006 Eisteddfod; and Twenty Thousand Saints, winner of the Oxfam Hay Prize, which tells how the women of the island, starved of men, turn to each other.
It was tradition for Bardsey Island to elect the "King of Bardsey" , and from 1820 onwards he would be crowned by Baron Newborough or his representative; the crown is now kept at Merseyside Maritime Museum
Merseyside Maritime Museum
The Merseyside Maritime Museum is a museum based in the city of Liverpool, Merseyside, England. It is part of National Museums Liverpool and an Anchor Point of ERIH, The European Route of Industrial Heritage...
in Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool is a city and metropolitan borough of Merseyside, England, along the eastern side of the Mersey Estuary. It was founded as a borough in 1207 and was granted city status in 1880...
, although calls have been made for it to return to Gwynedd. At the outbreak of the First World War, the last king, Love Pritchard, offered himself and the men of the island for military service, but he was refused as he was considered too old at the age of 71; Pritchard took umbrage, and declared the island to be a neutral power. In 1925 Pritchard left the island for the mainland, to seek a less laborious way of life, but died the following year.
Owen Griffith, a qualified pharmacist from Penycaerau, who was known as the "Doctor of the Wild Wart", used a traditional herbalist remedy to cure basal cell carcinoma
Basal cell carcinoma
Basal-cell carcinoma is the most common type of skin cancer. It rarely metastasizes or kills. However, because it can cause significant destruction and disfigurement by invading surrounding tissues, it is still considered malignant. Statistically, approximately 3 out of 10 Caucasians may develop a...
, also known as rodent ulcer; the remedy had supposedly been passed on to the family 300 years earlier by an Irish tinker
Irish Traveller
Irish Travellers are a traditionally nomadic people of ethnic Irish origin, who maintain a separate language and set of traditions. They live predominantly in the Republic of Ireland, the United Kingdom and the United States.-Etymology:...
. In 1932 a woman died while receiving treatment and, even though the inquest
Inquest
Inquests in England and Wales are held into sudden and unexplained deaths and also into the circumstances of discovery of a certain class of valuable artefacts known as "treasure trove"...
into her death found that no blame was apportioned to the treatment, the Chief Medical Officer for Caernarfonshire
Caernarfonshire
Caernarfonshire , historically spelled as Caernarvonshire or Carnarvonshire in English during its existence, was one of the thirteen historic counties, a vice-county and a former administrative county of Wales....
vociferously condemned the treatment in the press. Former patients came out in support of the pharmacist, and petitions were sent to the Department of Health demanding that a medical licence be granted to Griffith and his cousin.
There are several folk tales of the Tylwyth Teg
Tylwyth teg
The Tylwyth Teg is the common term in Wales for fairies. A synonym, Bendith y Mamau, means "Blessing of the Mothers". Until the early 19th century it was commonly believed that the Tylwyth Teg, described as ethereal, beautiful and fair-haired, dwelt in a number of places in Wales as genii loci...
, the fairy
Fairy
A fairy is a type of mythical being or legendary creature, a form of spirit, often described as metaphysical, supernatural or preternatural.Fairies resemble various beings of other mythologies, though even folklore that uses the term...
people who inhabited the area and an invisible land in Cardigan Bay
Cardigan Bay
Cardigan Bay is a large inlet of the Irish Sea, indenting the west coast of Wales between Bardsey Island, Gwynedd in the north, and Strumble Head, Pembrokeshire at its southern end. It is the largest bay in Wales....
. One tells of a farmer from Aberdaron who was in the habit of stepping outside his house before retiring to bed. One night he was spoken to by a stranger, who asked why the farmer was annoyed by him. The farmer, confused, asked what the stranger meant and was told to stand with one foot on the stranger's. This he did, and could see another house, just below his own, and that all the farm's slops went down the chimney of the invisible house. The stranger asked if the farmer would move his door to the other side of the house, which the farmer subsequently did, walling up the original door; from that day, the farmer's livestock flourished, and he became one of the most prosperous men in the area.
Religion
A church was founded in Aberdaron in the 6th century by Saint Hywyn, a follower of Saint CadfanSaint Cadfan
Saint Cadfan, ; , Abbot of Tywyn and Bardsey was a Breton Saint who lived in 6th century Wales. A Breton nobleman, he was the son of Eneas Ledewig , and Gwen Teirbron, a daughter of Budic II, a King of Brittany.- Associations & Legacy :...
; it was a significant institution, a monastery and centre of religious learning, rather than simply a place of worship for the locals. The present double-naved St Hywyn's Church , built in 1137 and known as "The Cathedral of Llŷn", stands above the shore and was on the pilgrim route to Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
. It contains a 12th-century Romanesque
Romanesque architecture
Romanesque architecture is an architectural style of Medieval Europe characterised by semi-circular arches. There is no consensus for the beginning date of the Romanesque architecture, with proposals ranging from the 6th to the 10th century. It developed in the 12th century into the Gothic style,...
arched door, and a square bell turret. The church was extended in 1417 and abandoned in 1841, when the locals decided to build a new church, Eglwys Newydd, in the village; the new building, however, proved unpopular and the congregation returned in 1906. Inside is a display about the life and works of the poet, Ronald Stuart Thomas
R. S. Thomas
Ronald Stuart Thomas was a Welsh poet and Anglican clergyman, noted for his nationalism, spirituality and deep dislike of the anglicisation of Wales...
; and in the churchyard stand Y Meini Feracius a Senagus (The Veracius and Senacus Stones), the tombstones of two 5th-century Christian priests, found in the 18th century on farmland near Mynydd Anelog. In 2008 the church became the centre of controversy when the local vicar blessed a gay civil partnership, after approval by the local church council; the vicar was reprimanded by Barry Morgan
Barry Morgan
Barry Cennydd Morgan has been the Archbishop of the Church in Wales since 2003.-Early life:Morgan was born in Gwaun-Cae-Gurwen, Neath Port Talbot and studied history at University College, London and theology at Selwyn College, Cambridge...
, the Archbishop of Wales
Archbishop of Wales
The post of Archbishop of Wales was created in 1920 when the Church in Wales was separated from the Church of England , and disestablished...
). Referring to the archbishop's protests, the vicar stated "There was a bit of a to-do about it".
Llanfaelrhys
Llanfaelrhys is a village and former civil parish in the Welsh county of Gwynedd, located on the Llŷn Peninsula. The parish was abolished in 1934 and incorporated into Aberdaron.-External links:...
is the only one in the United Kingdom dedicated to Saint Maelrhys
Saint Maelrhys
Maelrhys is honoured as a saint on Bardsey Island in Wales. Maelrhys was likely of Breton origin but little else is known of him beyond popular cult and local records....
, the cousin of both Saint Cadfan and Saint Hywyn, who accompanied them to Wales from Brittany
Brittany
Brittany is a cultural and administrative region in the north-west of France. Previously a kingdom and then a duchy, Brittany was united to the Kingdom of France in 1532 as a province. Brittany has also been referred to as Less, Lesser or Little Britain...
. Legend attributes the building of the church to a trader who landed a cargo of flour near Aberdaron during a famine; he used the profit from his sale to construct a small church for the locals. Much of the building is medieval; the font dates back to the 15th century; and there are plain hard wooden benches on the north side; on the south side are 19th-century wooden box pews. The graveyard contains the graves of the three Keating sisters, who restored Plas yn Rhiw.
St Aelrhiw's Church at Y Rhiw was built in 1860 on the footings of an earlier church. It consists of a small nave and short chancel; aisles to the north and south; and has boulder-built walls and a slate roof. The churchyard contains the graves of some of the bodies that were washed up at Porth Neigwl during the first World War. Above Porth Iago is the site of the ancient St Medin's Church; now just a mound in the middle of a field, it was the parish church of Bodferin.
Pwllheli
Pwllheli is a community and the main market town of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, north-western Wales. It has a population of 3,861, of which a large proportion, 81 per cent, are Welsh speaking. Pwllheli is the place where Plaid Cymru was founded. It is the birthplace of Albert Evans-Jones -...
, where he was jailed for failing to renounce his beliefs. After his release he returned to Y Rhiw and began to preach again. Re-arrested, he was returned to a prison ship
Prison ship
A prison ship, historically sometimes called a prison hulk, is a vessel used as a prison, often to hold convicts awaiting transportation to penal colonies. This practice was popular with the British government in the 18th and 19th centuries....
in England, where he subsequently died. Two of the earliest non-conformist chapels in the Llŷn Peninsula were established at Penycaerau, in 1768, and Uwchmynydd, in 1770; the Congregationalists opened Cephas Independent Chapel in 1829; and Capel Nebo was built at Y Rhiw in 1813; the Wesleyan Methodists
Methodist Church of Great Britain
The Methodist Church of Great Britain is the largest Wesleyan Methodist body in the United Kingdom, with congregations across Great Britain . It is the United Kingdom's fourth largest Christian denomination, with around 300,000 members and 6,000 churches...
followed in 1832 at Capel Pisgah. By 1850 there were eight non-conformist chapels in Aberdaron; five in Y Rhiw; and one on Bardsey Island; but more were to be built. The Calvinistic Methodists
Calvinistic Methodists
Calvinistic Methodists are a body of Christians forming the Presbyterian Church of Wales and claiming to be the only denomination of the Presbyterian order in Wales which is of purely Welsh origin.-Early history:...
opened Capel Tan y Foel; and Capel Bethesda, the Baptist
Baptist
Baptists comprise a group of Christian denominations and churches that subscribe to a doctrine that baptism should be performed only for professing believers , and that it must be done by immersion...
chapel at Rhoshirwaun, was built in 1904. Aberdaron is also home to a Seventh-day Adventist
Seventh-day Adventist Church
The Seventh-day Adventist Church is a Protestant Christian denomination distinguished by its observance of Saturday, the original seventh day of the Judeo-Christian week, as the Sabbath, and by its emphasis on the imminent second coming of Jesus Christ...
youth camp named Glan-yr-afon, located 1 miles (1.6 km) from the village centre.
At the 2001 census 73.9 per cent of the population claimed to be Christian
Christian
A Christian is a person who adheres to Christianity, an Abrahamic, monotheistic religion based on the life and teachings of Jesus of Nazareth as recorded in the Canonical gospels and the letters of the New Testament...
and 15.0 per cent stated that they had no religion.
Sport
Aberdaron hosts numerous sailing regattasRegatta
A regatta is a series of boat races. The term typically describes racing events of rowed or sailed water craft, although some powerboat race series are also called regattas...
featuring clinker
Clinker (boat building)
Clinker building is a method of constructing hulls of boats and ships by fixing wooden planks and, in the early nineteenth century, iron plates to each other so that the planks overlap along their edges. The overlapping joint is called a land. In any but a very small boat, the individual planks...
built boats unique to the area; there is a popular regatta every August where the races are open to everyone. Sea angling
Recreational boat fishing
Recreational fishermen usually fish either from a boat or from a shoreline or river bank. When fishing from a boat, or fishing vessel, pretty much any fishing technique can be used, from nets to fish traps, but some form of angling is by far the most common...
trips are operated from Porth Meudwy, fishing for pollock
Pollachius pollachius
Pollachius pollachius is a species of marine fish in the Pollachius genus. Together with Pollachius virens it is generally referred to as Pollock. Other names include the Atlantic pollock, European pollock, lieu jaune, and lythe. It is common in the north-eastern parts of the Northern Atlantic,...
, coley
Pollachius virens
Pollachius virens is a species of marine fish in the Pollachius genus. Together with Pollachius pollachius it is generally referred to in the U.S. as Pollock. Other names include the Boston blues , coalfish and saithe in the UK.This species can be separated from P...
and mackerel
Atlantic mackerel
The Atlantic mackerel , is a pelagic schooling species of mackerel found on both sides of the North Atlantic Ocean. The species is also called Boston mackerel, or just mackerel....
; wrasse
Wrasse
The wrasses are a family, Labridae, of marine fish, many of which are brightly colored. The family is large and diverse, with over 600 species in 82 genera, which are divided into nine subgroups or tribes....
, bass
European seabass
The European seabass, Dicentrarchus labrax, also known as Morone labrax, is a primarily ocean-going fish that sometimes enters brackish and fresh waters. It is also known as the sea dace...
, mullet
Mullet (fish)
The mullets or grey mullets are a family and order of ray-finned fish found worldwide in coastal temperate and tropical waters, and in some species in fresh water. Mullets have served as an important source of food in Mediterranean Europe since Roman times...
and gurnard
Sea robin
Sea robins, also known as gurnard, are bottom-feeding scorpaeniform fishes in the family Triglidae. They get their name from their large pectoral fins, which, when swimming, open and close like a bird's wings in flight....
are also possible. Bass and coley can be caught from the rocks at Porth Iago; and wrasse, pollock and mackerel are plentiful. Access is difficult at Uwchmynydd, but pollock, mackerel, wrasse and conger
European conger
The European conger, Conger conger, is a conger of the family Congridae, found in the eastern Atlantic from Norway and Iceland to Senegal, and also in the Mediterranean and Black Sea. It is sometimes seen in very shallow water by the shore but can also go down to depths of 1170 m...
are caught; huss
Spiny dogfish
The spiny dogfish, spurdog, mud shark, or piked dogfish, Squalus acanthias, is one of the best known of the dogfish which are members of the family Squalidae in the order Squaliformes. While these common names may apply to several species, Squalus acanthias is distinguished by having two spines ...
are plentiful; and ling
Common Ling
The common ling or simply the ling, Molva molva, is a large member of the cod family. An ocean fish whose habitat is in the Atlantic region and can be found around Iceland, Faroe Islands, British Isles, the Norse coast and occasionally around Newfoundland, the ling has a long slender body that can...
are found occasionally.
The village is a popular walking centre
Hiking
Hiking is an outdoor activity which consists of walking in natural environments, often in mountainous or other scenic terrain. People often hike on hiking trails. It is such a popular activity that there are numerous hiking organizations worldwide. The health benefits of different types of hiking...
and lies on the Llŷn Coastal Path , which runs 84 miles (135.2 km) from Caernarfon
Caernarfon
Caernarfon is a Royal town, community and port in Gwynedd, Wales, with a population of 9,611. It lies along the A487 road, on the east banks of the Menai Straits, opposite the Isle of Anglesey. The city of Bangor is to the northeast, while Snowdonia fringes Caernarfon to the east and southeast...
to Porthmadog
Porthmadog
Porthmadog , known locally as "Port", and historically rendered into English as Portmadoc, is a small coastal town and community in the Eifionydd area of Gwynedd, in Wales. Prior to the Local Government Act 1972 it was in the administrative county of Caernarfonshire. The town lies east of...
. Kayaking
Kayaking
Kayaking is the use of a kayak for moving across water. Kayaking and canoeing are also known as paddling. Kayaking is distinguished from canoeing by the sitting position of the paddler and the number of blades on the paddle...
is possible from both Aberdaron and Porth Neigwl, and the south-facing "sunshine coast" is a major attraction; there are camping facilities
Campsite
A campsite or camping pitch is a place used for overnight stay in the outdoors. In British English a campsite is an area, usually divided into a number of pitches, where people can camp overnight using tents or camper vans or caravans; this British English use of the word is synonymous with the...
for canoeists on the shores of Porth Neigwl. Tidal streams are generally weak, although landing conditions are tricky when there is wind or swell from the south.
The area has excellent diving
Underwater diving
Underwater diving is the practice of going underwater, either with breathing apparatus or by breath-holding .Recreational diving is a popular activity...
. Underwater visibility at Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island
Bardsey Island , the legendary "Island of 20,000 saints", lies off the Llŷn Peninsula in the Welsh county of Gwynedd. The Welsh name means "The Island in the Currents", although its English name refers to the "Island of the Bards", or possibly the island of the Viking chieftan, "Barda". It is ...
extends to 66 feet (20.1 m) and there is a rich variety of sea life; it is considered some of the best diving in Gwynedd
Gwynedd
Gwynedd is a county in north-west Wales, named after the old Kingdom of Gwynedd. Although the second biggest in terms of geographical area, it is also one of the most sparsely populated...
. The Ynysoedd Gwylanod are particularly popular, and the wreck of the Glenocum, in Bae Aberdaron, is excellent for novices, having a maximum depth of 26 feet (7.9 m); an extremely large conger eel
European conger
The European conger, Conger conger, is a conger of the family Congridae, found in the eastern Atlantic from Norway and Iceland to Senegal, and also in the Mediterranean and Black Sea. It is sometimes seen in very shallow water by the shore but can also go down to depths of 1170 m...
lives in the lower section of the boiler openings. There is spectacular diving at Pen y Cil, where there is a slate wreck and an unusual cave dive; nearby Carreg Ddu is an isolated rocky island in Bardsey Sound, although care must be taken as there are strong currents.
Sea bathing
Sea bathing is swimming in the sea or in sea water and a sea bath is a protective enclosure for sea bathing. Unlike bathing in a swimming pool, which is generally done for pleasure or exercise purposes, sea bathing was once thought to have curative or therapeutic value. It arose from the medieval...
is popular along the coast. Aberdaron Beach, facing south west, is sandy, gently shelving and safe; it received a Seaside Award in 2008. Porthor also attracts bathers, and has sands which squeak when walked on; the beach at Porth Neigwl was awarded a Green Coast Award in 2009;
Aberdaron Beach is a surfing
Surfing
Surfing' is a surface water sport in which the surfer rides a surfboard on the crest and face of a wave which is carrying the surfer towards the shore...
and bodyboarding
Bodyboarding
Bodyboarding is a surface water sport . The average board consists of a small, rectangular piece of hydrodynamic foam, sometimes containing a ridged spine called a 'stringer'...
location for surfers of all levels, although it can be dangerous at high tide when the waves break directly onto boulders underneath the cliff. The better surfers head for the northern end.