Andrew Groves
Encyclopedia
Andrew Groves is a London
-based English
fashion designer specialising in womenswear, menswear and prints. He is currently Course Director for BA Fashion Design at the University of Westminster
, where he has lectured since 2001. He also works as a creative director
, stylist and writer.
Groves is remembered for his controversial catwalk shows. In the 1990s, he designed under the label "Jimmy Jumble". The confrontational themes of his collections for London Fashion Week
ensured that he caught people's attention and enhanced his notoriety. His first scheduled show, "Ourselves Alone" (translated from the Gaelic
"Sinn Féin
") referred to The Troubles
in Ireland, combining the colours of the rival factions of Irish unionists
and Irish republicians
. The models wore orange sashes, grey suits, and charred green taffeta, with one model apparently setting herself on fire during the show. Outside the show 30 foot burning crucifixes were erected. Another show, "Cocaine Nights", (based on J.G. Ballard's novel) had the models walking on a catwalk apparently spread with sugar-like cocaine
. One dress was made of razor blades. At the time, Bill Clinton
, the then President of the USA, had condemned the fashion industry for glamorizing drug use, so this was seen as deliberate provocation.
Groves is known for his tailoring, and before he launched his own label, he worked as head assistant to Alexander McQueen
for several years. In addition to his runway collections, Groves has created costumes for Robbie Williams
, Kylie Minogue
, Suede
, and The Spice Girls. He has worked freelance as a creative consultant for fashion design companies in the UK and Japan, and as a design consultant for companies such as Nokia
, Wedgwood
, and The Coca-Cola Company
.
London
London is the capital city of :England and the :United Kingdom, the largest metropolitan area in the United Kingdom, and the largest urban zone in the European Union by most measures. Located on the River Thames, London has been a major settlement for two millennia, its history going back to its...
-based English
England
England is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. It shares land borders with Scotland to the north and Wales to the west; the Irish Sea is to the north west, the Celtic Sea to the south west, with the North Sea to the east and the English Channel to the south separating it from continental...
fashion designer specialising in womenswear, menswear and prints. He is currently Course Director for BA Fashion Design at the University of Westminster
University of Westminster
The University of Westminster is a public research university located in London, United Kingdom. Its origins go back to the foundation of the Royal Polytechnic Institution in 1838, and it was awarded university status in 1992.The university's headquarters and original campus are based on Regent...
, where he has lectured since 2001. He also works as a creative director
Creative Director
A creative director is a position often found within the graphic design, film, music, fashion, advertising, media or entertainment industries, but may be useful in other creative organizations such as web development and software development firms as well....
, stylist and writer.
Groves is remembered for his controversial catwalk shows. In the 1990s, he designed under the label "Jimmy Jumble". The confrontational themes of his collections for London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week is an apparel trade show held in London, England twice each year, in February and September. It is one of the "Big Four" fashion weeks, along with New York Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week.-Organization:...
ensured that he caught people's attention and enhanced his notoriety. His first scheduled show, "Ourselves Alone" (translated from the Gaelic
Irish language
Irish , also known as Irish Gaelic, is a Goidelic language of the Indo-European language family, originating in Ireland and historically spoken by the Irish people. Irish is now spoken as a first language by a minority of Irish people, as well as being a second language of a larger proportion of...
"Sinn Féin
Sinn Féin
Sinn Féin is a left wing, Irish republican political party in Ireland. The name is Irish for "ourselves" or "we ourselves", although it is frequently mistranslated as "ourselves alone". Originating in the Sinn Féin organisation founded in 1905 by Arthur Griffith, it took its current form in 1970...
") referred to The Troubles
The Troubles
The Troubles was a period of ethno-political conflict in Northern Ireland which spilled over at various times into England, the Republic of Ireland, and mainland Europe. The duration of the Troubles is conventionally dated from the late 1960s and considered by many to have ended with the Belfast...
in Ireland, combining the colours of the rival factions of Irish unionists
Unionism in Ireland
Unionism in Ireland is an ideology that favours the continuation of some form of political union between the islands of Ireland and Great Britain...
and Irish republicians
Irish Republicanism
Irish republicanism is an ideology based on the belief that all of Ireland should be an independent republic.In 1801, under the Act of Union, the Kingdom of Great Britain and the Kingdom of Ireland merged to form the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland...
. The models wore orange sashes, grey suits, and charred green taffeta, with one model apparently setting herself on fire during the show. Outside the show 30 foot burning crucifixes were erected. Another show, "Cocaine Nights", (based on J.G. Ballard's novel) had the models walking on a catwalk apparently spread with sugar-like cocaine
Cocaine
Cocaine is a crystalline tropane alkaloid that is obtained from the leaves of the coca plant. The name comes from "coca" in addition to the alkaloid suffix -ine, forming cocaine. It is a stimulant of the central nervous system, an appetite suppressant, and a topical anesthetic...
. One dress was made of razor blades. At the time, Bill Clinton
Bill Clinton
William Jefferson "Bill" Clinton is an American politician who served as the 42nd President of the United States from 1993 to 2001. Inaugurated at age 46, he was the third-youngest president. He took office at the end of the Cold War, and was the first president of the baby boomer generation...
, the then President of the USA, had condemned the fashion industry for glamorizing drug use, so this was seen as deliberate provocation.
Groves is known for his tailoring, and before he launched his own label, he worked as head assistant to Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen
Lee Alexander McQueen, CBE was a British fashion designer and couturier best known for his in-depth knowledge of bespoke British tailoring, his tendency to juxtapose strength with fragility in his collections, as well as the emotional power and raw energy of his provocative fashion shows...
for several years. In addition to his runway collections, Groves has created costumes for Robbie Williams
Robbie Williams
Robert Peter "Robbie" Williams is an English singer-songwriter, vocal coach and occasional actor. He is a member of the pop group Take That. Williams rose to fame in the band's first run in the early- to mid-1990s. After many disagreements with the management and certain group members, Williams...
, Kylie Minogue
Kylie Minogue
Kylie Ann Minogue, OBE - often known simply as Kylie - is an Australian singer, recording artist, songwriter, and actress. After beginning her career as a child actress on Australian television, she achieved recognition through her role in the television soap opera Neighbours, before commencing...
, Suede
Suede (singer)
Suede is an American pop, cabaret and jazz singer. She was born in Nyack, New York and went to high school in Severna Park, Maryland. She began playing music in high school, getting bar gigs before she even graduated. She lived in Baltimore for the majority of the 80's and became a fixture at many...
, and The Spice Girls. He has worked freelance as a creative consultant for fashion design companies in the UK and Japan, and as a design consultant for companies such as Nokia
Nokia
Nokia Corporation is a Finnish multinational communications corporation that is headquartered in Keilaniemi, Espoo, a city neighbouring Finland's capital Helsinki...
, Wedgwood
Wedgwood
Wedgwood, strictly speaking Josiah Wedgwood and Sons, is a pottery firm owned by KPS Capital Partners, a private equity company based in New York City, USA. Wedgwood was founded on May 1, 1759 by Josiah Wedgwood and in 1987 merged with Waterford Crystal to create Waterford Wedgwood, an...
, and The Coca-Cola Company
The Coca-Cola Company
The Coca-Cola Company is an American multinational beverage corporation and manufacturer, retailer and marketer of non-alcoholic beverage concentrates and syrups. The company is best known for its flagship product Coca-Cola, invented in 1886 by pharmacist John Stith Pemberton in Columbus, Georgia...
.
External links
- www.andrewgroves.com Designer's Website
- Fashion Windows collection of runway pictures
- Fashion at the Edge Catwalk and book review
- Cocaine.org article on Groves and drugs in the fashion industry
- BBC News report on cocaine nights collection