Cimon della Pala
Encyclopedia
Cimon della Pala, sometimes called Cimone and The Matterhorn
of the Dolomites (il Cervino delle Dolomiti), is the best-known peak of the Pale di San Martino group, in the Dolomites
, northern Italy
. Although it is not the highest peak of the group, the Cima Vezzana being a few metres higher, its slender point, which can be seen from the Rolle Pass, dominates the landscape.
in Trentino, the southern part of the Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol, and is the watershed between the Cismón valley and the Travignolo valley. It is the northernmost peak in the chain of the Pale di San Martino and is flanked by the Vezzana. Between the high, steep walls of the two peaks and descending to the north, lies a steep glacier called Travignolo, which is the source of a river of the same name, a tributary of the Avisio.
The peak can be attained by a route which, while easy, requires good experience, called the "Variation for the Summit". This departs from a bivouac shelter
called Fiamme Gialle, at a height of 3,005 metres, which is reached by the Bolver-Lugli via ferrata
, not technically demanding, but tiring. This mountain route, equipped with fixed cables, stemple
s, ladders, and bridges, was constructed by a group of mountain guide
s from San Martino di Castrozza
, known in the mountaineering world as the Eagles of San Martino, to mark the centenary in 1970 of the first ascent
of the peak on 3 June 1870 by Edward Robson Whitwell, accompanied by two guides, Santo Siorpaes of nearby Cortina d'Ampezzo
and Christian Lauener of Lauterbrunnen
.
A good access to the via ferrata is by way of the gondola lift
from San Martino di Castrozza to Colverde, which operates between the middle of June and the end of September .
The mountain can be seen on the coat of arms
(pictured) of the Guardia di Finanza
, an Italian law enforcement agency which is one of the Italian Armed Forces
and which has its Alpine School not far from the Cimon della Pala.
Matterhorn
The Matterhorn , Monte Cervino or Mont Cervin , is a mountain in the Pennine Alps on the border between Switzerland and Italy. Its summit is 4,478 metres high, making it one of the highest peaks in the Alps. The four steep faces, rising above the surrounding glaciers, face the four compass points...
of the Dolomites (il Cervino delle Dolomiti), is the best-known peak of the Pale di San Martino group, in the Dolomites
Dolomites
The Dolomites are a mountain range located in north-eastern Italy. It is a part of Southern Limestone Alps and extends from the River Adige in the west to the Piave Valley in the east. The northern and southern borders are defined by the Puster Valley and the Sugana Valley...
, northern Italy
Italy
Italy , officially the Italian Republic languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Italy's official name is as follows:;;;;;;;;), is a unitary parliamentary republic in South-Central Europe. To the north it borders France, Switzerland, Austria and...
. Although it is not the highest peak of the group, the Cima Vezzana being a few metres higher, its slender point, which can be seen from the Rolle Pass, dominates the landscape.
Location
The mountain lies near the town of TonadicoTonadico
Tonadico is a comune in Trentino in the northern Italian region Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol, located about 60 km east of Trento...
in Trentino, the southern part of the Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol, and is the watershed between the Cismón valley and the Travignolo valley. It is the northernmost peak in the chain of the Pale di San Martino and is flanked by the Vezzana. Between the high, steep walls of the two peaks and descending to the north, lies a steep glacier called Travignolo, which is the source of a river of the same name, a tributary of the Avisio.
Route
Bivouac shelter
A bivouac traditionally refers to a military encampment made with tents or improvised shelters, usually without shelter or protection from enemy fire or such a site where a camp may be built. It is also commonly used to describe a variety of improvised camp sites such as those used in scouting and...
called Fiamme Gialle, at a height of 3,005 metres, which is reached by the Bolver-Lugli via ferrata
Via ferrata
A via ferrata or klettersteig is a mountain route which is equipped with fixed cables, stemples, ladders, and bridges. The use of these allows otherwise isolated routes to be joined to create longer routes which are accessible to people with a wide range of climbing abilities...
, not technically demanding, but tiring. This mountain route, equipped with fixed cables, stemple
Stemple
A stemple is a form of wooden step used in mining, caving and mountaineering, usually a wooden bar set between notches in rock walls for climbing purposes, often one of a series forming a ladder.Webster's Dictionary says of the word:...
s, ladders, and bridges, was constructed by a group of mountain guide
Mountain guide
Mountain guides are specially trained and experienced mountaineers and professionals who are generally certified by an association. They are considered experts in mountaineering.-Skills:Their skills usually include climbing, skiing and hiking...
s from San Martino di Castrozza
San Martino di Castrozza
San Martino di Castrozza is a mountain resort in the Primiero valley in the Trentino province in Italy. The western part, with 428 inhabitants, is in the comune of Siror, the eastern, with 135, in Tonadico.- History :...
, known in the mountaineering world as the Eagles of San Martino, to mark the centenary in 1970 of the first ascent
First ascent
In climbing, a first ascent is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route...
of the peak on 3 June 1870 by Edward Robson Whitwell, accompanied by two guides, Santo Siorpaes of nearby Cortina d'Ampezzo
Cortina d'Ampezzo
Cortina d'Ampezzo is a town and comune in the southern Alps located in Veneto, a region in Northern Italy. Located in the heart of the Dolomites in an alpine valley, it is a popular winter sport resort known for its ski-ranges, scenery, accommodations, shops and après-ski scene...
and Christian Lauener of Lauterbrunnen
Lauterbrunnen
Lauterbrunnen is a municipality in the Interlaken-Oberhasli administrative district in the canton of Bern in Switzerland.The municipality lies in the Lauterbrunnen Valley and comprises the villages Lauterbrunnen, Wengen, Mürren, Gimmelwald, Stechelberg and Isenfluh...
.
A good access to the via ferrata is by way of the gondola lift
Gondola lift
A gondola lift is a type of aerial lift, normally called a cable car, which is supported and propelled by cables from above. It consists of a loop of steel cable that is strung between two stations, sometimes over intermediate supporting towers. The cable is driven by a bullwheel in a terminal,...
from San Martino di Castrozza to Colverde, which operates between the middle of June and the end of September .
History
The mountain brought the first tourists into the Primiero valley. In 1862, British travellers Josiah Gilbert and George Cheetham Churchill saw a picture of the Cimon della Pala in an inn. Fascinated by it, they wanted to see it at first hand, and wrote of it in their account The Dolomite Mountains: Excursions Through Tyrol, Carinthia, Carniola & Friuli (London, 1864). In later years there was an influx of tourists, at first mostly from outside Italy, who were interested in the whole chain of the Pale.The mountain can be seen on the coat of arms
Coat of arms
A coat of arms is a unique heraldic design on a shield or escutcheon or on a surcoat or tabard used to cover and protect armour and to identify the wearer. Thus the term is often stated as "coat-armour", because it was anciently displayed on the front of a coat of cloth...
(pictured) of the Guardia di Finanza
Guardia di Finanza
The Guardia di Finanza is a Italian law enforcement agency under the authority of the Minister of Economy and Finance. Like the Carabinieri, it is part of the Italian Armed Forces. The Guard is essentially responsible for dealing with financial crime and smuggling; it has also evolved into Italy's...
, an Italian law enforcement agency which is one of the Italian Armed Forces
Military of Italy
The Italian armed forces are the military of Italy, they are under the command of the Italian Supreme Council of Defence, presided over by the President of the Italian Republic. The total number of active military personnel is 293,202...
and which has its Alpine School not far from the Cimon della Pala.
External links
- Cimon della Pala photographs at flickr.com
- Cimon della Pala on SummitPost