Climbing styles
Encyclopedia
Rock climbing style refers to the method by which vertical progress can be made in rock climbing
. Each climbing style can be considered a sort of game with rules or standard commonly referred to as climbing ethic. These ethics are some of climbing's social mores.
While Indoor climbing
is not a style of climbing it is distinct from climbing outside. Indoor climbing involves bouldering
, top roping
, and sport climbing in an indoor environment on wood or plastic holds. In recent years, indoor climbing wall
s, basically artificial cliffs, have become quite popular. Climbing walls can be used to train climbers for the outdoors, but many climbers enjoy climbing indoors for its own sake. The controlled environment and possibility to easily set original routes has allowed indoor climbing to evolve into a competitive sport.
Similarly speed climbing
is not a true style since it is mostly a compilation of other styles. Speed climbing does however contain some techniques unique to speed climbing, and the ethics or sportsmanship of speed climbing can be talked about in terms of "style".
requires the climber use only his/her own body's connections to the rock for upward progress. Commonly confused with "free soloing
" which is a specific form of free climbing done without a rope. The essence of free climbing is that, although gear may be used to protect a climber in the event of a fall, the actual "climbing" is being done without the help of any artificial device's adhesion to the rock.
Rock climbing
Rock climbing also lightly called 'The Gravity Game', is a sport in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route without falling...
. Each climbing style can be considered a sort of game with rules or standard commonly referred to as climbing ethic. These ethics are some of climbing's social mores.
Categories
The term "style" is used by climbers to describe more than one set of distinctions. Ethics, class, techniques, and goals all can be talked about in terms of "style", and both the usage of the term "style" and the usage of stylistic terms themselves can vary quite greatly by geography.- Certain styles are regarded as a matter of climbing ethics, which might be matters of conservation, sportsmanship, personal satisfaction, or competition:
- Clean climbingClean climbingClean climbing is a rock climbing term that describes techniques and equipment which climbers use in order to avoid damage to the rock. These techniques date at least in part from the 1920s and earlier in England, but the term itself may have emerged in about 1970 during the widespread and rapid...
contrasts against those styles which can have environmental effects ("leave no trace"). - Bottom-up and on-sight ascents are regarded as "better style" than the exploration and rehearsal of a route on fixed ropes before actual climbing of the route is attempted or succeeded.
- "To send" or ascend flawlessly is regarded as "better style" than to hang-dog, yo-yo or work a route until one gets up.
- Clean climbing
- There are 2 major divisions in climbing style, by class:
- free climbing
- aid climbing
- There are a variety of techniques which are often discussed in the context of style:
- Sieging ("expedition"-style), versus Alpine-style ("fast and light")
- Climbing strictly "on", versus taking liberties with a route's accepted path
- To "free" a previous aid-only route, or to climb clean a previous hammered route, thus advancing the state of the art
- To employ equipment in novel ways, or to develop new equipment and associated techniques, thus advancing the state of the art
- Handicapping, by deliberately choosing to adhere to some restriction on techniques, equipment, holds or some other element of climbing a particular route
- Climbers with different goals may describe their preferences and choices in terms of style:
- Traditional climbingTraditional climbingTraditional climbing, or trad climbing, is a style of rock climbing in which a climber or group of climbers places all gear required to protect against falls , and removes it when a passage is complete...
can be "adventure"-style climbing. - Sport climbingSport climbingSport climbing is a form of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock, and possibly bolts, for protection,...
can be "athletic"-style climbing. - BoulderingBoulderingBouldering is a style of rock climbing undertaken without a rope and normally limited to very short climbs over a crash pad so that a fall will not result in serious injury. It is typically practiced on large natural boulders or artificial boulders in gyms and outdoor urban areas...
is largely equipment-free. - SoloingSolo climbingSolo climbing or soloing is a style of climbing in which the climber climbs alone, without somebody belaying him. There are three ways to climb solo:* Roped solo climbing:**lead climbing with a self-locking device which is used to arrest a fall...
or free-soloing stimulate one's sense of self-reliance. - Top ropingTop ropingTop-rope climbing is a style in climbing in which a rope, used for the climber's safety, runs from a belayer at the foot of a route through one or more carabiners connected to an anchor system at the top of the route and back down to the climber, usually attaching to the climber by means of a...
can allow one to focus on climbing rather than equipment-handling, or vice-versa. - The choice of LeadingLead climbingLead climbing is a climbing technique used to ascend a route. This technique is predominantly used in rock climbing and involves a lead climber attaching themselves to a length of dynamic climbing rope and ascending a route while periodically attaching protection to the face of the route and...
or following or swapping leads can align one's sense of self-confidence with the route being climbed, can support a climber's progress in developing skills, and can impact the efficiency and speed with which long routes are ascended. - First ascentFirst ascentIn climbing, a first ascent is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route...
s are sought by those who wish to explore or create a legacy
- Traditional climbing
What "style" is not
Certain categories of climbing associated with techniques, classes, grades and locations are not generally regarded as matters of "style".- MountaineeringMountaineeringMountaineering or mountain climbing is the sport, hobby or profession of hiking, skiing, and climbing mountains. While mountaineering began as attempts to reach the highest point of unclimbed mountains it has branched into specialisations that address different aspects of the mountain and consists...
- Rock climbingRock climbingRock climbing also lightly called 'The Gravity Game', is a sport in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route without falling...
- Ice climbingIce climbingIce climbing, as the term indicates, is the activity of ascending inclined ice formations. Usually, ice climbing refers to roped and protected climbing of features such as icefalls, frozen waterfalls, and cliffs and rock slabs covered with ice refrozen from flows of water. For the purposes of...
or mixed rock/ice climbing - ProtectionProtection (climbing)To make climbing as safe as possible, most climbers use protection, a term used to describe the equipment used to prevent injury to themselves and others.-Types of climbing:...
potential (The "style" of a climb on an objectively dangerous or poorly-protected route, is regarded no differently than the style of climbing on a very safe, easily-protected route.)
While Indoor climbing
Indoor climbing
Indoor Climbing is an increasingly popular form of rock climbing performed on artificial structures that attempt to mimic the experience of outdoor rock.Competetive indoor climbing is also called sport climbing....
is not a style of climbing it is distinct from climbing outside. Indoor climbing involves bouldering
Bouldering
Bouldering is a style of rock climbing undertaken without a rope and normally limited to very short climbs over a crash pad so that a fall will not result in serious injury. It is typically practiced on large natural boulders or artificial boulders in gyms and outdoor urban areas...
, top roping
Top roping
Top-rope climbing is a style in climbing in which a rope, used for the climber's safety, runs from a belayer at the foot of a route through one or more carabiners connected to an anchor system at the top of the route and back down to the climber, usually attaching to the climber by means of a...
, and sport climbing in an indoor environment on wood or plastic holds. In recent years, indoor climbing wall
Climbing wall
A climbing wall is an artificially constructed wall with grips for hands and feet, usually used for indoor climbing, but sometimes located outdoors as well. Some are brick or wooden constructions, but on most modern walls, the material most often used is a thick multiplex board with holes drilled...
s, basically artificial cliffs, have become quite popular. Climbing walls can be used to train climbers for the outdoors, but many climbers enjoy climbing indoors for its own sake. The controlled environment and possibility to easily set original routes has allowed indoor climbing to evolve into a competitive sport.
Similarly speed climbing
Speed climbing
Speed Climbing is climbing in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed Climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles...
is not a true style since it is mostly a compilation of other styles. Speed climbing does however contain some techniques unique to speed climbing, and the ethics or sportsmanship of speed climbing can be talked about in terms of "style".
Free climbing
Free climbingFree climbing
Free climbing is a type of rock climbing in which the climber uses only hands, feet and other parts of the body to ascend, employing ropes and forms of climbing protection to prevent falls only....
requires the climber use only his/her own body's connections to the rock for upward progress. Commonly confused with "free soloing
Free solo climbing
Free solo climbing, also known as free soloing, is a form of free climbing where the climber forgoes ropes, harnesses and other protective gear while ascending and relies only on his or her physical strength, climbing ability, and psychological fortitude to avoid a fatal fall...
" which is a specific form of free climbing done without a rope. The essence of free climbing is that, although gear may be used to protect a climber in the event of a fall, the actual "climbing" is being done without the help of any artificial device's adhesion to the rock.
General description
Free climbing can be subdivided into traditional climbing and sport climbing.| Category | Description |
|---|---|
| Traditional climbing | climbers carry and place majority of safety anchors during ascent |
| Sport climbing | pre-placed safety anchors |
Types of free climbing
- BoulderingBoulderingBouldering is a style of rock climbing undertaken without a rope and normally limited to very short climbs over a crash pad so that a fall will not result in serious injury. It is typically practiced on large natural boulders or artificial boulders in gyms and outdoor urban areas...
may be described as climbing short, severe routes on boulders or small outcrops. While safety ropes from above are occasionally used, most boulderers feel that the most ethical form of protection is a bouldering matBouldering matA bouldering mat or crash pad is a foam pad used for protection when bouldering. There are various sizes and makes, but the most common type is a folded mattress, 8 to 10 centimetres thick , that when unfolded measures about 1 x 1.3 metres . Bouldering mats often have shoulder straps so as to...
or pad similar to those used by gymnasts. In addition, other climbers standing on the ground may "spotSpotting (climbing)Spotting is a technique used in climbing, especially in bouldering, where the climbers are close to the ground and ropes are not typically used. The spotter stands below the climber, with arms raised or at the ready. If the climber falls, the spotter does not catch the climber, but redirects the...
" the boulderer, to help safely guide his or her fall. Since the climber moves without aid of equipment it is a form of free climbing but the distinction is generally unimportant. - Free solo climbingFree solo climbingFree solo climbing, also known as free soloing, is a form of free climbing where the climber forgoes ropes, harnesses and other protective gear while ascending and relies only on his or her physical strength, climbing ability, and psychological fortitude to avoid a fatal fall...
: Usually describes free climbing without a rope or other protective gear. Free solo climbing is distinguished from solo climbing where a climber progressing alone uses a rope and protection devices including a self belay system. - Traditional climbingTraditional climbingTraditional climbing, or trad climbing, is a style of rock climbing in which a climber or group of climbers places all gear required to protect against falls , and removes it when a passage is complete...
, or "Trad" Climbing. In Trad Climbing, the leader uses mostly removable gear (and the occasional bolt placed on lead) to protect against falls. As with all partnered climbing involving belays the climbing team (a leader and follower, or multiple followers) begins at the bottom of a climb and ascends to the top, the leader placing protective devices in the rock as he/she climbs. Once the leader is finished climbing, he/she establishes a belay. The follower then "follows" the route and removes all of the gear placed by the leader. It is important that the leader be proficient at placing Trad (or clean or natural) gear (cams, stoppers, hexes, tri-cams, etc.) because his/her safety depends upon the soundness of each individual gear placement. Placing trad gear on lead can be time-consuming and thus tiring, sometimes making routes feel harder than their rating. Trad climbing is generally practiced according to ethical principles, that dictate primarily natural gear placements be made. However, when "traditional" was first coined in U.S. climbing literature, traditionalists of the day hand drilled bolts sometimes from delicate stances on lead when cams, stoppers, etc. were not possible to place. Some of the resulting traditional routes have long run outs between bolts, requiring a "bold" mentality. More important to the original traditionalists than bolting or not was the overall approach to climbing: no resting on the rope after falls, instead lowering to a stance or pitch beginning or even the ground for restart; no placing of protection from a top rope or rehearsing difficult moves over and over; and no fixing of ropes to high points (sieging) to return with aid for repeated tries. It is, with perhaps the exception of climbing with no rope and prior knowledge of a route Free-soloingFree solo climbingFree solo climbing, also known as free soloing, is a form of free climbing where the climber forgoes ropes, harnesses and other protective gear while ascending and relies only on his or her physical strength, climbing ability, and psychological fortitude to avoid a fatal fall...
, the purest form of climbing. Since the term traditional first emerged in U.S. climbing literature, its use has changed. Some, for example, now will call a climbing style "trad" only if no bolts are encountered, and may relax the old restraint of lowering off tension for restarts after a fall.
- Simul climbingSimul climbingSimul climbing or climbing with a running belay is a climbing method or style where both climbers, climb at the same time while tied into the rope. Protection is placed by a pseudo-leader and the second removes the pieces of gear. The length of rope used during simul climbing varies but is often...
is a style where climbers "move together", a risky but speedy technique. Both leader and second move at the same time without stopping to belay. The leader - approximately a rope length above the second - usually places multiple pieces of protection as he climbs so that the weight of the second climber might arrest a possible leader's fall. Should the second climber fall, however, the leader may be pulled from his holds, with potentially dangerous results. - Sport climbingSport climbingSport climbing is a form of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock, and possibly bolts, for protection,...
is a type of freeclimbing which involves the use of pre-placed permanent bolts for protection. This frees the leader from the need to carry and place traditional gear. The leader merely clips one side of a quickdrawQuickdrawQuickdraws are used by rock climbers to connect the climbing rope to bolt anchors or other protection, while lead climbing...
(two carabiners connected by a loop of webbing) into a bolt and the other into the rope. A typical sport route will require the leader to carry between 6 and 12 quickdraws or "draws," one for each bolt in the string of bolts that protect the route. Sport Climbing, in essence, is focused more on the gymnastic aspects of climbing than the aesthetics or adventure. Sport routes are bolted with safety in mind and also because they generally (though not always) ascend faces that are not protectable by any other practical mean. Bolts, however, are not foolproof. The same stringence concerning safety found in Trad. climbing should apply to Sport climbing as well. In the case of a fall, sport climbers often rest on the rope and begin from where they are hanging, called "hang-dogging." Hard sport climbs often require that the climber literally rehearse every single move several times before he/she can complete a clean ascent (without falls). - Top roping involves suspending a rope from an anchorAnchor (climbing)In rock climbing, an anchor can be any way of attaching the climber, the rope, or a load to rock, ice, steep dirt, or a building by either permanent or temporary means...
located at the top of a short climb. The climber ties into one end of the rope and is belayed by his belayer who manages the other end of the rope. The belayer can belay either from the top or base of the route. Its questionable to call top roping a style of climbing. Top roping is included as a style since most free climbing implies segments of lead climbingLead climbingLead climbing is a climbing technique used to ascend a route. This technique is predominantly used in rock climbing and involves a lead climber attaching themselves to a length of dynamic climbing rope and ascending a route while periodically attaching protection to the face of the route and...
where the climber is not safeguarded by a rope attached to an anchor situated at the top of the route.