Bouldering
Encyclopedia
Bouldering is a style of rock climbing
Rock climbing
Rock climbing also lightly called 'The Gravity Game', is a sport in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route without falling...

 undertaken without a rope and normally limited to very short climbs over a crash pad (called a bouldering mat
Bouldering mat
A bouldering mat or crash pad is a foam pad used for protection when bouldering. There are various sizes and makes, but the most common type is a folded mattress, 8 to 10 centimetres thick , that when unfolded measures about 1 x 1.3 metres . Bouldering mats often have shoulder straps so as to...

) so that a fall will not result in serious injury. It is typically practiced on large natural boulder
Boulder
In geology, a boulder is a rock with grain size of usually no less than 256 mm diameter. While a boulder may be small enough to move or roll manually, others are extremely massive....

s or artificial boulders in gyms and outdoor urban areas. However, it may also be practiced at the base of larger rock faces, or even on buildings or public architecture (see buildering
Buildering
Buildering is the act of climbing on the outside of buildings and other artificial structures. The word "buildering" is a portmanteau, combining the word "building" with the climbing term "bouldering".If done without ropes or protection far off the ground, buildering may be dangerous...

).

History

Bouldering's documented origins may be found in the United Kingdom, France, and Italy in the last quarter of the 19th century. The British coined the words bouldering and problem at that time. The first documented bouldering advocate may have been Oscar Eckenstein
Oscar Eckenstein
Oscar Johannes Ludwig Eckenstein was an English rock climber and mountaineer, and a pioneer in the sport of bouldering...

, a British
British people
The British are citizens of the United Kingdom, of the Isle of Man, any of the Channel Islands, or of any of the British overseas territories, and their descendants...

 engineer and innovative climber who wrote about bouldering, and in the 1890s conducted an informal bouldering competition for natives in Askole
Askole
Askole or Askoly is a small town located in the Braldu Valley in the most remote region of Karakoram mountains in Northern Areas, Pakistan. It is the last settlement before the wilderness of the Karakoram. Askole is the gateway to four of the world's fourteen highest peaks known as Eight-thousanders...

, a village in the Karakoram
Karakoram
The Karakoram, or Karakorum , is a large mountain range spanning the borders between Pakistan, India and China, located in the regions of Gilgit-Baltistan , Ladakh , and Xinjiang region,...

 mountains. For many years, bouldering was commonly viewed as a playful training activity for climbers
Climbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...

, although in the 1930s and late 1940s Pierre Allain
Pierre Allain
Pierre Allain was a French alpinist who began climbing in the 1920s. In the 1930s he was joined by several others at Fontainebleau, where his group of "'Bleausards" developed a love of bouldering that went beyond simple training for the Alps. The famous , done in 1934, is a testament to their...

 and his companions enjoyed bouldering for its own sake in Fontainebleau
Fontainebleau
Fontainebleau is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the arrondissement of Fontainebleau...

, considered by many to be the Mecca
Mecca
Mecca is a city in the Hijaz and the capital of Makkah province in Saudi Arabia. The city is located inland from Jeddah in a narrow valley at a height of above sea level...

 of bouldering. The first climber to actually make bouldering his primary specialty (in the mid 1950s) and to advocate its acceptance as a legitimate sport not restricted to a particular area was John Gill
John Gill (climber)
John Gill is an American mathematician who has achieved recognition for his rock-climbing. He is considered the Father of Modern Bouldering by many climbers.-Early life and professional career:...

, a mathematician and amateur gymnast
Gymnast
Gymnasts are people who participate in the sports of either artistic gymnastics, trampolining, or rhythmic gymnastics.See gymnasium for the origin of the word gymnast from gymnastikos.-Female artistic:Australia...

 who found the challenge and movement of bouldering enjoyable.

Bouldering basics

Bouldering is a style of climbing emphasizing power, strength, and dynamics. Its focus is on individual moves or short sequences of moves, unlike traditional climbing
Traditional climbing
Traditional climbing, or trad climbing, is a style of rock climbing in which a climber or group of climbers places all gear required to protect against falls , and removes it when a passage is complete...

 or sport climbing
Sport climbing
Sport climbing is a form of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock, and possibly bolts, for protection,...

, which generally demand more endurance over longer stretches of rock where the difficulty of individual moves is not as great. Boulder routes are commonly referred to as problems (a British appellation) because the nature of the climb is often short, curious, and much like problem solving. Sometimes these problems are eliminates, meaning certain artificial restrictions are imposed. Bouldering is more focused on the technique of climbing instead of undertaking a full bodied climb.

To reduce the risk of injury from a fall, climbers rarely go higher than 3–5 meters above the ground. Anything over 7 meters is generally considered to be free-soloing (or simply 'soloing'), although such climbs might also be termed high-ball bouldering problems. For further protection, climbers typically put a bouldering mat
Bouldering mat
A bouldering mat or crash pad is a foam pad used for protection when bouldering. There are various sizes and makes, but the most common type is a folded mattress, 8 to 10 centimetres thick , that when unfolded measures about 1 x 1.3 metres . Bouldering mats often have shoulder straps so as to...

 (crash pad) on the ground to break their fall. Last, climbers often have one or more spotters
Spotting (climbing)
Spotting is a technique used in climbing, especially in bouldering, where the climbers are close to the ground and ropes are not typically used. The spotter stands below the climber, with arms raised or at the ready. If the climber falls, the spotter does not catch the climber, but redirects the...

, who work to direct the climber's body toward the crash pad during a fall, while protecting the climber's head from hazards.

Bouldering is increasing in popularity; bouldering areas are common in indoor climbing gyms and some climbing gyms are dedicated solely to bouldering. Children are joining the sport now as well as adults. In fact, studies have found that young climbers develop better skills as adults from their experience with youthful disadvantages such as height and strength.

Equipment

One of the major appeals of bouldering is its relatively scant equipment requirements. Nothing is actually required - beyond suitable comfortable and flexible clothing - and it is not uncommon to see people bouldering with just climbing shoes, a chalk bag, and a crash mat.

Bouldering equipment may include:
  • Close-fitting rubber climbing shoes, for better traction and edging capabilities.
  • Loose, powdered chalk may be used as a hand drying agent while climbing. Alternatively, liquid chalk
    Liquid Chalk
    The term liquid chalk refers to several substances, in relation to dry, powdery chalk:* liquid-chalk marking pens ;* liquid-chalk mixtures for rock climbing; and...

    is sometimes used.
  • A mattress-like object called a crash pad
    Bouldering mat
    A bouldering mat or crash pad is a foam pad used for protection when bouldering. There are various sizes and makes, but the most common type is a folded mattress, 8 to 10 centimetres thick , that when unfolded measures about 1 x 1.3 metres . Bouldering mats often have shoulder straps so as to...

    . These are generally thick, rectangular foam pads with a heavy-duty fabric shell. They are opened and placed at the base of a boulder to cover irregularities in the landing and provide some cushion if the climber falls.
  • A brush, or several brushes of differing sizes, is used to clean holds. Brushes are typically made with nylon bristles, but sometimes use coarse animal hair, and may be mounted on a telescopic pole to allow greater reach.
  • Sports tape is useful for covering cuts or blisters, as well as providing support for joints that may have been strained.

Ratings

As in other types of climbing, bouldering has developed its own grading systems
Grade (bouldering)
In the sport of bouldering, problems are assigned technical grades according to several established systems, which are often distinct from those used in roped climbing. Bouldering grade systems in wide use include the Hueco "V" grades , Fontainebleau technical grades, route colors, Peak District...

 for comparing the difficulty of problems, mainly because bouldering problems can be much harder than traditional rock climbing routes. The most commonly used grading systems are the Fontainebleau system which ranges from 1 to 8c+, and the John Sherman V-grade system, beginning at V0 and increasing by integers to a current top grade of proposed V16 (The Wheel of Life
The Wheel of Life
The Wheel of Life is a famous boulder problem in Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians of Australia.The problem which consists of over 60 moves was first completed by Dai Koyamada in 2004, and it links up several V8 to V15 problems that were established by climbers such as Klem Loskot and Fred...

 by Dai Koyamada
Dai Koyamada
Dai Koyamada is a Japanese rock climber. Not only is he one of the premier boulderers of his generation, he has also put up or repeated hard sport climbs.*He was born on 23 August 1976 in Kagoshima and has been climbing since 1993....

 in the Grampians
Grampians National Park
The Grampians National Park is a national park in Victoria, Australia, 235 kilometres west of Melbourne. The Park was listed on the Australian National Heritage List on 15 December 2006 for its outstanding natural beauty and being one of the richest indigenous rock art sites in south-eastern...

, Australia; The Game, by Daniel Woods, Boulder Canyon, CO; Lucid Dreaming, by Paul Robinson, Bishop, CA, which is the only unrepeated and unchallenged problem of this grade). Both scales are open-ended at the top, and thus the upper grade of these systems is always increasing as boulderers ascend more difficult problems.

Technique Terminology

There are a variety of bouldering terms that are useful in utilizing and describing the techniques necessary to complete a route. A few include; bump, campus, chicken wing, crimp, dyno, gaston, heel hook, high-step, knee bar, lock-off, smear, stem, side-pull, toe hook etc

Famous Bouldering Areas

Boulder, Colorado is legendary with bouldering opportunites and fierce clean climbing
Clean climbing
Clean climbing is a rock climbing term that describes techniques and equipment which climbers use in order to avoid damage to the rock. These techniques date at least in part from the 1920s and earlier in England, but the term itself may have emerged in about 1970 during the widespread and rapid...

 ethic, particularly in the Crown Rocks area featuring notable first bouldering ascents by John Gill
John Gill
John Gill may refer to:John Gill, reverend at Church of the Savior, a UCC church in Knoxville, TN* John Gill , English Baptist minister and Calvinist theologian...

, Chuck Pratt
Chuck Pratt
Charles Marshall Pratt was an American rock climber from California, best known for big wall climbing first ascents in Yosemite Valley...

 and Pat Ament
Pat Ament
Pat Ament is an American rock climber, musician, and artist who lives in Fruita, Colorado. Noted for first ascents in the 1960s and 1970s, he is the author of many articles and books....

. Particularly famous is the Pratt Mantle, relatively easy but a classic mantle; the Pratt Overhang, a classic off-wideth, an adjacent John Gill face problem, and the forty foot Monkee Traverse. Its red sandstonish rock affords an opportunity to experience the use of smear holds while only a short bike ride away, Boulder Canyon provides Schawangunk-like edging on grey rock with its own plethora of bouldering and short climbs. The region around Fontainebleau
Fontainebleau
Fontainebleau is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the arrondissement of Fontainebleau...

 near Paris is particularly famous for its beautiful and concentrated bouldering areas. Other well-known areas are: Chironico
Chironico
Chironico is a municipality located in the district of Leventina in the canton of Ticino in Switzerland.-History:Chironico is first mentioned in 1202 as Cuirono. The village lies on a terrace that was partly created by a prehistoric landslide on the opposite side of the valley...

 (Switzerland), Stanage
Stanage
Stanage Edge, or simply Stanage is a gritstone escarpment in the English Peak District, famous as a location for climbing. The northern part of the edge forms the border between the High Peak of Derbyshire and Sheffield in South Yorkshire. Its highest point is High Neb at above sea level...

 (UK), Hueco Tanks
Hueco Tanks
Hueco Tanks is an area of low mountains in El Paso County, Texas, USA. It is located in a high-altitude desert basin between the Franklin Mountains to the west and the Hueco Mountains to the east. Hueco is a Spanish word meaning hollows and refers to the many water-holding depressions in the...

 (Texas), Val Masino and Val di Mello (Italy), Castle Hill
Castle Hill, New Zealand
Castle Hill is a location and a high country station in New Zealand's South Island. It is located at an altitude of 700 metres, close to State Highway 73 between Darfield and Arthur's Pass. It is private property....

 (New Zealand), Bishop
Bishop, California
Bishop is a city in Inyo County, California, United States. Though Bishop is the only city and the largest populated place in Inyo County, the county seat is Independence. Bishop is located near the northern end of the Owens Valley, at an elevation of 4147 feet . The population was 3,879 at the...

 (California), Joe's Valley
Joe's Valley
Joe's Valley is a general term used to describe a large concentration of sandstone boulders East of the Joe's Valley Reservoir near Orangeville, Utah. There are 3 main areas of Joe's the Left Fork, the Right Fork, and New Joes....

 (Utah), Yosemite (California), Rocktown
Rocktown
Rocktown, Georgia is a free face rock climbing area. It consists of an outcropping of sandstone boulders on the Cumberland Plateau in northwest Georgia. It comprises several acres of large sandstone boulders; the average size is high. Every boulder has its own unique features, all with great feet...

 (Georgia), Rocklands (South Africa), Cocalzinho de Goiás
Cocalzinho de Goiás
Cocalzinho de Goiás is a small town and municipality in central Goiás state, Brazil.-Location and Geography:Cocalzinho, as it is known by the inhabitants, is located in the micro-region of Entorno de Brasília, on highway BR-414, almost at the junction with highway BR-070...

 (Brazil), Kjugekull (Sweden), Hampi
Hampi
Hampi is a village in northern Karnataka state, India. It is located within the ruins of Vijayanagara, the former capital of the Vijayanagara Empire. Predating the city of Vijayanagara, it continues to be an important religious centre, housing the Virupaksha Temple, as well as several other...

 (India) Horse Pens 40
Horse Pens 40
Horse Pens 40 is a privately-owned outdoor nature park located in St. Clair County near Steele, Alabama. The park is situated atop Alabama's third-highest mountain, Chandler Mountain, in the foothills of The Appalachian Mountains. The park is known among the rock climbing community as a premier...

 (Alabama) and Horseshoe Canyon Ranch (Arkansas) amongst others.

Places to Boulder

Fontainebleau forest

Just outside Paris, France, the Fontainebleau area
Fontainebleau rock climbing
The region around Fontainebleau in France is particularly famous for its beautiful and concentrated bouldering areas.French alpine climbers practiced bouldering there since the 19th century....

 is the biggest and most developed bouldering area in the world. The Fb bouldering grade was developed there.

Lists of bouldering sites in the U.S.A


Locations by country

  • Grampians National Park
    Grampians National Park
    The Grampians National Park is a national park in Victoria, Australia, 235 kilometres west of Melbourne. The Park was listed on the Australian National Heritage List on 15 December 2006 for its outstanding natural beauty and being one of the richest indigenous rock art sites in south-eastern...

    , Australia
  • Westende, Belgium (artificial bouldering structures on the beach)
  • Cocalzinho de Goiás
    Cocalzinho de Goiás
    Cocalzinho de Goiás is a small town and municipality in central Goiás state, Brazil.-Location and Geography:Cocalzinho, as it is known by the inhabitants, is located in the micro-region of Entorno de Brasília, on highway BR-414, almost at the junction with highway BR-070...

    , Brazil
  • Niagara Falls
    Niagara Falls
    The Niagara Falls, located on the Niagara River draining Lake Erie into Lake Ontario, is the collective name for the Horseshoe Falls and the adjacent American Falls along with the comparatively small Bridal Veil Falls, which combined form the highest flow rate of any waterfalls in the world and has...

    , Canada
  • Squamish
    Squamish, British Columbia
    Squamish is a community and a district municipality in the Canadian province of British Columbia, located at the north end of Howe Sound on the Sea to Sky Highway...

    , Canada
  • Kochel (Bavaria), Germany
  • Val Masino and Val di Mello, Italy
  • Hampi
    Hampi
    Hampi is a village in northern Karnataka state, India. It is located within the ruins of Vijayanagara, the former capital of the Vijayanagara Empire. Predating the city of Vijayanagara, it continues to be an important religious centre, housing the Virupaksha Temple, as well as several other...

    , India
  • Mitake (Japan)
    Mitake rock climbing
    The rock climbing in Mitake is centered around the riverbed of Tama RiverSome of Japan's famous boulder problems can be found in the Mitake area. On boulders such as and...

  • Ogawayama (Japan)
    Ogawayama
    is a 2,418m tall mountain on the border of Nagano and Yamanashi prefectures in Japan. It is a famous rock climbing area.The rock in Ogawayama consists of granite....

  • Tioman Island
    Tioman Island
    Tioman Island is a small island located 32 km off the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia in the state of Pahang, and is some 39 km long and 12 km wide. It has eight main villages, the largest and most populous being Kampung Tekek in the north...

    , Malaysia
  • Teluk Cempedak
    Teluk Cempedak
    Teluk Cempedak or Teluk Chempedak is a famous beach in Kuantan, Pahang, Malaysia. Teluk Cempedak is located 5 kilometres east from the town centre in Kuantan and is situated in close proximity to the Royal Pahang Golf Club...

    , Malaysia
  • Castle Hill, New Zealand
    Castle Hill, New Zealand
    Castle Hill is a location and a high country station in New Zealand's South Island. It is located at an altitude of 700 metres, close to State Highway 73 between Darfield and Arthur's Pass. It is private property....

  • Rocklands, South Africa
  • Albarracín
    Albarracín
    Albarracín is Spanish town, in the province of Teruel, part of the autonomous community of Aragon. According to the 2007 census , the municipality had a population of 1075 inhabitants...

    , Spain
  • Kjugekull, Sweden
  • Magic Wood
    Avers
    Avers is a municipality in the district of Hinterrhein in the Swiss canton of Graubünden. It includes Juf, the highest-altitude year-round settlement in Europe.-History:...

    , Switzerland
  • Cresciano
    Cresciano
    Cresciano is a municipality in the district of Riviera in the canton of Ticino in Switzerland.-History:Cresciano is first mentioned in 1269 as Crazano....

    , Switzerland
  • Chironico
    Chironico
    Chironico is a municipality located in the district of Leventina in the canton of Ticino in Switzerland.-History:Chironico is first mentioned in 1202 as Cuirono. The village lies on a terrace that was partly created by a prehistoric landslide on the opposite side of the valley...

    , Switzerland
  • Fontainebleau
    Fontainebleau
    Fontainebleau is a commune in the metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a sub-prefecture of the Seine-et-Marne department, and it is the seat of the arrondissement of Fontainebleau...

    , France
  • Vingsand, Aksel og Sigve, Norway
  • The Peak District
    Peak District
    The Peak District is an upland area in central and northern England, lying mainly in northern Derbyshire, but also covering parts of Cheshire, Greater Manchester, Staffordshire, and South and West Yorkshire....

    , United Kingdom
  • Isle of Portland
    Isle of Portland
    The Isle of Portland is a limestone tied island, long by wide, in the English Channel. Portland is south of the resort of Weymouth, forming the southernmost point of the county of Dorset, England. A tombolo over which runs the A354 road connects it to Chesil Beach and the mainland. Portland and...

    , United Kingdom
  • La Guairita, Caracas
    Caracas
    Caracas , officially Santiago de León de Caracas, is the capital and largest city of Venezuela; natives or residents are known as Caraquenians in English . It is located in the northern part of the country, following the contours of the narrow Caracas Valley on the Venezuelan coastal mountain range...

    , Venezuela
  • Gravity Park. Constanța
    Constanta
    Constanța is the oldest extant city in Romania, founded around 600 BC. The city is located in the Dobruja region of Romania, on the Black Sea coast. It is the capital of Constanța County and the largest city in the region....

     Romania

United States locations by state

  • Horsepens 40: Steele, Alabama
  • Sand Rock (Little Rock City Park), Alabama
  • Moss Rock Preserve: Hoover, Alabama
  • Palisades Park: Oneonta, Alabama
  • Little River Canyon: Little River Canyon National Preserve, Alabama
  • Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Jasper, Arkansas
  • Bishop and Lone Pine
    Bishop, California
    Bishop is a city in Inyo County, California, United States. Though Bishop is the only city and the largest populated place in Inyo County, the county seat is Independence. Bishop is located near the northern end of the Owens Valley, at an elevation of 4147 feet . The population was 3,879 at the...

    , California
  • San Jacinto
    Mount San Jacinto State Park
    Mount San Jacinto State Park is in the San Jacinto Mountains, of the Peninsular Ranges system, in Riverside County, California. The park is near the Greater Los Angeles and the San Diego metropolitan area.-Geography:...

    , California
  • Joshua Tree National Park
    Joshua Tree National Park
    Joshua Tree National Park is located in southeastern California. Declared a U.S. National Park in 1994 when the U.S. Congress passed the California Desert Protection Act , it had previously been a U.S. National Monument since 1936. It is named for the Joshua tree forests native to the park...

    , California
  • Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
  • Rock Town: Pigeon Mountain, Georgia
  • The Ledges, Michigan
  • Red Rock Canyon, Nevada
  • Governor Stable
    Governor Stable
    Governor Stable is a notable geologic formation in northern Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. Scattered along the northern bank of a small drainage are a high number of large diabase boulders. Governor Stable is privately owned. administers a recreational lease on the property, allowing...

    , Pennsylvania
  • Gunks, New York
  • Little Rock City, Tennessee
  • Hueco Tanks, Texas
  • Joe's Valley, Utah
  • Coopers Rock State Park, West Virginia
  • Vedauwoo, Wyoming
  • Virginia Beach, Virginia

Ouro Preto, Brasil

See also

  • Free solo climbing
    Free solo climbing
    Free solo climbing, also known as free soloing, is a form of free climbing where the climber forgoes ropes, harnesses and other protective gear while ascending and relies only on his or her physical strength, climbing ability, and psychological fortitude to avoid a fatal fall...

  • Buildering
    Buildering
    Buildering is the act of climbing on the outside of buildings and other artificial structures. The word "buildering" is a portmanteau, combining the word "building" with the climbing term "bouldering".If done without ropes or protection far off the ground, buildering may be dangerous...

  • Parkour
    Parkour
    Parkour is a method of movement focused on moving around obstacles with speed and efficiency. Originally developed in France, the main purpose of the discipline is to teach participants how to move through their environment by vaulting, rolling, running, climbing and jumping...

  • Rock climbing
    Rock climbing
    Rock climbing also lightly called 'The Gravity Game', is a sport in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route without falling...

  • Tree climbing
    Tree climbing
    Tree climbing is a recreational or functional activity consisting of ascending and moving around in the crown of trees.Use of a rope, helmet, and harness are the minimum requirements to ensure the safety of the climber. Other equipment can also be used depending on the experience and skill of the...

  • Ice climbing
    Ice climbing
    Ice climbing, as the term indicates, is the activity of ascending inclined ice formations. Usually, ice climbing refers to roped and protected climbing of features such as icefalls, frozen waterfalls, and cliffs and rock slabs covered with ice refrozen from flows of water. For the purposes of...

  • Glossary of climbing terms
    Glossary of climbing terms
    This page describes terms and jargon related to climbing and mountaineering.-A:American death triangle : An anchor which is created by connecting a closed loop of cord or webbing between two points of protection, and then suspending the rope from a carabiner clipped to only one strand of said anchor...

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