Dangui
Encyclopedia
Dang'ui is a type of upper garment for women in hanbok
, Korea
n traditional clothing, which was worn for ceremonial occasions during the Joseon Dynasty
. It was worn as a simple official outfit or for small national ceremonies while court ladies wore it as a daily garment. Dangui was also called dang-jeogori
(당저고리), dang-jeoksam (당적삼), or dang-hansam (당한삼).
period (57 BC - 668 AD) when a clothing system of China
was introduced to Korea. The letter, dang refers to Chinese Tang Dynasty
(618 – 907), so dangui may have been adapted from its clothing along with other ceremonial robes such as hwarot
and wonsam
. Whether the theory is probable or not, it is certain that dangui was worn during the Joseon period, based on historical documents and remains. The scholar, Yi Jae (李縡 1680 ∼ 1746) mentioned dangui in his book, Sarye pyeollam
(literally "Easy Manual of the Four Rites") which defines four important rites based on Confucianism
. In the chapter, Gwallyejo (冠禮條) on coming-of-age ceremonies, samja (衫子) is commonly called dangui and its length reaches to the knees and its sleeves are narrow. It is also a woman's sangbok (常服), daily garments when working.
(court matron), and yangban
women (nobility) wore the garment over a short jacket called jeogori
. According to color, there were yellowish green, purple, navy, and white-colored dangui and others, but yellowish green colored one was the most commonly worn dangui during the time.
In addition, dangui can be divided into two types depending on its layer; a double layered dangui (gyeop-dangui 겹당의), and a single layered one (hot-dangui, 홑당의). The former was usually worn during winter while the single layered dangui which is also called dang-jeoksam or dang-hansam was worn for summer. As the Queen wore a white dangui made of a single fabric the day before the Dano festival which falls on the 5th day of the fifth month of the lunar calendar
, every women at court followed to change their clothing to the single layered one the next day. Likewise, when the Queen began to wear a double layered dangui the day before Chuseok
which celebrates on every 15th day of August in the lunar calendar, all women in the palace changed their clothing to the double layered dangui the next day.
The characteristics of dangui is to emphasize the beauty of hanbok’s curvy lines. The form of dangui is similar to that of jeogori
, the length of both the front and back which reach to the knees is triple to that of jeogori. Sleeves of dangui are narrow. The side seams are open to the armpit, and the hem is curved. When making a dangui with a yellowish green fabric, the color for the inner fabric and for goreum (고름, ribbons at chest) is red and purple respectively. Two goreum are attached at the left side of git (깃), a fabric band of that trims the collar while one short goreum is at the git’s right side. At the end of the sleeves of dangui is geodeulji
, a kind of white patch attached.
The dangui for women at court strictly represented the wearer’s rank, whereas the dangui for commoners was not allowed to have any style used for the former. The dangui for the Queen, princesses or other royalty, geumbak
(gold leaf) patterns were decorated from the shoulder part through the end of the sleeves, as well as the front and back side, and goreum. In geumbak patterns, flower or bat illustrations or Hanja referring to longevity
(su) , fortune
(bok ), or double happiness
(hui) were used. For the Queen, phoenix
patterns were used. When dangui was worn as a wedding dress
, the bride wore it over a chima
(a wrapping skirt) and jeogori. The wearer also put a hwagwan
(a coronet
) on the head, attached a norigae
(노리개), a type of accessory to the goreum, and wore a pair of shoes made of silk. It is easy to wear and neat, so dangui was one of commonly worn wedding clothing among commoners during the Joseon Dynasty.
Hanbok
Hanbok or Chosŏn-ot is the traditional Korean dress. It is often characterized by vibrant colors and simple lines without pockets. Although the term literally means "Korean clothing", hanbok today often refers specifically to hanbok of Joseon Dynasty and is worn as semi-formal or formal wear...
, Korea
Korea
Korea ) is an East Asian geographic region that is currently divided into two separate sovereign states — North Korea and South Korea. Located on the Korean Peninsula, Korea is bordered by the People's Republic of China to the northwest, Russia to the northeast, and is separated from Japan to the...
n traditional clothing, which was worn for ceremonial occasions during the Joseon Dynasty
Joseon Dynasty
Joseon , was a Korean state founded by Taejo Yi Seong-gye that lasted for approximately five centuries. It was founded in the aftermath of the overthrow of the Goryeo at what is today the city of Kaesong. Early on, Korea was retitled and the capital was relocated to modern-day Seoul...
. It was worn as a simple official outfit or for small national ceremonies while court ladies wore it as a daily garment. Dangui was also called dang-jeogori
Jeogori
The jeogori is a basic upper garment of hanbok, Korean traditional garment, which has been worn by both men and women. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body.-Etymology:...
(당저고리), dang-jeoksam (당적삼), or dang-hansam (당한삼).
Origin
It is theorised dangui dates back to the Korean Three KingdomsThree Kingdoms of Korea
The Three Kingdoms of Korea refer to the ancient Korean kingdoms of Goguryeo, Baekje and Silla, which dominated the Korean peninsula and parts of Manchuria for much of the 1st millennium...
period (57 BC - 668 AD) when a clothing system of China
China
Chinese civilization may refer to:* China for more general discussion of the country.* Chinese culture* Greater China, the transnational community of ethnic Chinese.* History of China* Sinosphere, the area historically affected by Chinese culture...
was introduced to Korea. The letter, dang refers to Chinese Tang Dynasty
Tang Dynasty
The Tang Dynasty was an imperial dynasty of China preceded by the Sui Dynasty and followed by the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms Period. It was founded by the Li family, who seized power during the decline and collapse of the Sui Empire...
(618 – 907), so dangui may have been adapted from its clothing along with other ceremonial robes such as hwarot
Hwarot
Hwarot is a type of traditional Korean clothing worn during the Goryeo and Joseon Dynasty by royal women for ceremonial occasions or by commoners for weddings. It originated from the Kingdom of Khotan, Central Asia....
and wonsam
Wonsam
The wonsam is a female ceremonial topcoat in hanbok, Korean traditional clothing. It was worn by queens, high-ranking court ladies, and royalty during the Joseon Dynasty of Korea . It is also called daeui , daesu and jangsam...
. Whether the theory is probable or not, it is certain that dangui was worn during the Joseon period, based on historical documents and remains. The scholar, Yi Jae (李縡 1680 ∼ 1746) mentioned dangui in his book, Sarye pyeollam
Sarye pyeollam
Sarye pyeollam is a kind of practical guide written by Korean scholar Yi Jae of the Joseon Dynasty, which that records and describes important rites and ceremonies based on Neo-Confucianism. The title is translated into "Easy Manual of the Four Rites" or "Convenient Reference to the Four Rites"...
(literally "Easy Manual of the Four Rites") which defines four important rites based on Confucianism
Confucianism
Confucianism is a Chinese ethical and philosophical system developed from the teachings of the Chinese philosopher Confucius . Confucianism originated as an "ethical-sociopolitical teaching" during the Spring and Autumn Period, but later developed metaphysical and cosmological elements in the Han...
. In the chapter, Gwallyejo (冠禮條) on coming-of-age ceremonies, samja (衫子) is commonly called dangui and its length reaches to the knees and its sleeves are narrow. It is also a woman's sangbok (常服), daily garments when working.
Features
The queen consort, the king’s concubines, sanggungSanggung
Sanggung was an official title of the senior 5th rank , the highest attainable for gungnyeo, a lady-in-waiting during the Joseon Dynasty of Korea. Female officers with the title were assigned to govern the inner affairs of the palace. When a regular nain served for more than 15 years, she would be...
(court matron), and yangban
Yangban
The yangban were part of the traditional ruling class or nobles of dynastic Korea during the Joseon Dynasty. The yangban were either landed or unlanded aristocracy who comprised the Korean Confucian idea of a "scholarly official." In reality, they were basically administrators and bureaucrats who...
women (nobility) wore the garment over a short jacket called jeogori
Jeogori
The jeogori is a basic upper garment of hanbok, Korean traditional garment, which has been worn by both men and women. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body.-Etymology:...
. According to color, there were yellowish green, purple, navy, and white-colored dangui and others, but yellowish green colored one was the most commonly worn dangui during the time.
In addition, dangui can be divided into two types depending on its layer; a double layered dangui (gyeop-dangui 겹당의), and a single layered one (hot-dangui, 홑당의). The former was usually worn during winter while the single layered dangui which is also called dang-jeoksam or dang-hansam was worn for summer. As the Queen wore a white dangui made of a single fabric the day before the Dano festival which falls on the 5th day of the fifth month of the lunar calendar
Lunar calendar
A lunar calendar is a calendar that is based on cycles of the lunar phase. A common purely lunar calendar is the Islamic calendar or Hijri calendar. A feature of the Islamic calendar is that a year is always 12 months, so the months are not linked with the seasons and drift each solar year by 11 to...
, every women at court followed to change their clothing to the single layered one the next day. Likewise, when the Queen began to wear a double layered dangui the day before Chuseok
Chuseok
Chuseok , originally known as Hangawi , is a major harvest festival and a three-day holiday in Korea celebrated on the 15th day of the 8th month of the lunar calendar. Like many other harvest festivals, it is held around the Autumn Equinox...
which celebrates on every 15th day of August in the lunar calendar, all women in the palace changed their clothing to the double layered dangui the next day.
The characteristics of dangui is to emphasize the beauty of hanbok’s curvy lines. The form of dangui is similar to that of jeogori
Jeogori
The jeogori is a basic upper garment of hanbok, Korean traditional garment, which has been worn by both men and women. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body.-Etymology:...
, the length of both the front and back which reach to the knees is triple to that of jeogori. Sleeves of dangui are narrow. The side seams are open to the armpit, and the hem is curved. When making a dangui with a yellowish green fabric, the color for the inner fabric and for goreum (고름, ribbons at chest) is red and purple respectively. Two goreum are attached at the left side of git (깃), a fabric band of that trims the collar while one short goreum is at the git’s right side. At the end of the sleeves of dangui is geodeulji
Geodeulji
Geodeulji is a small piece of white cloth to attach to the edge of sleeves of hanbok, traditional Korean attire. Its inner is back up by changhoji , a type of Korean paper and its width is about 6 ~ 8 cm...
, a kind of white patch attached.
The dangui for women at court strictly represented the wearer’s rank, whereas the dangui for commoners was not allowed to have any style used for the former. The dangui for the Queen, princesses or other royalty, geumbak
Geumbak
Geumbak is a Korean traditional craft for applying extremely thin gold leaf on hanbok , or other fabrics for decoration. Artisans who specialize in the technique are called geumbakjang and among them, Kim Deokhwan has been designated as the title holder of the 119th Important Intangible Cultural...
(gold leaf) patterns were decorated from the shoulder part through the end of the sleeves, as well as the front and back side, and goreum. In geumbak patterns, flower or bat illustrations or Hanja referring to longevity
Longevity
The word "longevity" is sometimes used as a synonym for "life expectancy" in demography or known as "long life", especially when it concerns someone or something lasting longer than expected ....
(su) , fortune
Luck
Luck or fortuity is good fortune which occurs beyond one's control, without regard to one's will, intention, or desired result. There are at least two senses people usually mean when they use the term, the prescriptive sense and the descriptive sense...
(bok ), or double happiness
Double Happiness (calligraphy)
Double Happiness is a Chinese ornamental design commonly used as a decoration.It is a ligature "囍" composed of two Chinese characters 喜 , compressed to assume the square shape of a standard Chinese character , and often modified in various ways.The shuāngxǐ motif often appears on decorative...
(hui) were used. For the Queen, phoenix
Phoenix (mythology)
The phoenix or phenix is a mythical sacred firebird that can be found in the mythologies of the Arabian, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Egyptians, Chinese, Indian and Phoenicians....
patterns were used. When dangui was worn as a wedding dress
Wedding dress
A wedding dress or wedding gown is the clothing worn by a bride during a wedding ceremony. Color, style and ceremonial importance of the gown can depend on the religion and culture of the wedding participants.- Western culture :...
, the bride wore it over a chima
Chima
Chima is a town and municipality in the Santander Department in northeastern Colombia....
(a wrapping skirt) and jeogori. The wearer also put a hwagwan
Hwagwan
Hwagwan is a type of Korean coronet worn by women, traditionally for ceremonial occasions such as weddings. It is similar to thejokduri in shape and function, but the hwagan is more elaborate....
(a coronet
Coronet
A coronet is a small crown consisting of ornaments fixed on a metal ring. Unlike a crown, a coronet never has arches.The word stems from the Old French coronete, a diminutive of coronne , itself from the Latin corona .Traditionally, such headgear is – as indicated by the German equivalent...
) on the head, attached a norigae
Norigae
Norigae is a typical traditional accessory that is hung from a woman's jeogori goreum or hanbok chima and so on....
(노리개), a type of accessory to the goreum, and wore a pair of shoes made of silk. It is easy to wear and neat, so dangui was one of commonly worn wedding clothing among commoners during the Joseon Dynasty.