Ecamsule
Encyclopedia
Ecamsule is an organic compound
which is added to many sunscreen
s to filter out UVA
rays. It is a benzylidene camphor derivative, many of which are known for their excellent photostability.
Although there are a few different UV absorbers with the trade name Mexoryl, only two of them are widely used where approved. Mexoryl SX (water soluble) and Mexoryl XL (INCI Drometrizole trisiloxane
, oil soluble). Together they show a synergistic
effect in protection. The patents are held by L'Oréal
. Sunscreens containing ecamsule are exclusive to L'Oréal and its brands.
UVB rays cause short-term sunburn and skin cancer; UVA
rays cause wrinkling and may have some role in development of skin cancer. There is no official rating for UVA protection in the US. In Europe, there are several different rating systems that are used to measure effectiveness in blocking UVA rays, including the IPD (immediate pigment darkening assay) and the PPD (persistent pigment darkening assay). The UVB range is 280 to 320 nanometers, and the UVA range is 320 to 400. Ecamsule protects against UV wavelengths in the 290–400 nanometer range, with peak protection at 345 nm. Since ecamsule doesn't cover the entire UV spectrum, it should be combined with other active sunscreen agents to ensure broad-spectrum UV protection. Ecamsule is a photostable organic UVA absorber, meaning it doesn't degrade significantly when exposed to light. This is in contrast to the widely used UVA absorber avobenzone
that is not intrinsically photostable and requires photostabilizers to prevent significant degradation in light.
significantly reduces the skin damage associated with UV exposure in human subjects.
In studies done in mice it reduces the formation of UV induced pyrimidine dimers
and delays the onset of skin cancer. In vitro
ecamsule effectively protects against the harmful effects of UV.
A mouse study shows that it does not increase the probability of promoting skin cancer. Studies done in vitro show that it is not photomutagenic.
Because ecamsule is an acid
it needs to be neutralized in order to be used without offsetting the final pH
of the sunscreen too much. Usually this is done with triethanolamine
.
, not ecamsule itself.
Organic compound
An organic compound is any member of a large class of gaseous, liquid, or solid chemical compounds whose molecules contain carbon. For historical reasons discussed below, a few types of carbon-containing compounds such as carbides, carbonates, simple oxides of carbon, and cyanides, as well as the...
which is added to many sunscreen
Sunscreen
Sunblock is a lotion, spray, gel or other topical product that absorbs or reflects some of the sun's ultraviolet radiation on the skin exposed to sunlight and thus helps protect against sunburn...
s to filter out UVA
Ultraviolet
Ultraviolet light is electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength shorter than that of visible light, but longer than X-rays, in the range 10 nm to 400 nm, and energies from 3 eV to 124 eV...
rays. It is a benzylidene camphor derivative, many of which are known for their excellent photostability.
Although there are a few different UV absorbers with the trade name Mexoryl, only two of them are widely used where approved. Mexoryl SX (water soluble) and Mexoryl XL (INCI Drometrizole trisiloxane
Drometrizole trisiloxane
Drometrizole trisiloxane is a lipophilic benzotriazole derivative marketed as Mexoryl XL by L'Oréal and is used in sunscreens to absorb UV radiation. It is a broad-spectrum UV absorber with two absorption peaks, one at 303 nm and one at 344 nm . Just like Mexoryl SX , it is used exclusively in...
, oil soluble). Together they show a synergistic
Synergy
Synergy may be defined as two or more things functioning together to produce a result not independently obtainable.The term synergy comes from the Greek word from , , meaning "working together".-Definitions and usages:...
effect in protection. The patents are held by L'Oréal
L'Oréal
The L'Oréal Group is the world's largest cosmetics and beauty company. With its registered office in Paris and head office in the Paris suburb of Clichy, Hauts-de-Seine, France, it has developed activities in the field of cosmetics...
. Sunscreens containing ecamsule are exclusive to L'Oréal and its brands.
Mode of action
Exposed to UV, ecamsule undergoes reversible photoisomerization, followed by photoexcitation. The absorbed UV is then released as thermal energy, without penetrating the skin.UVB rays cause short-term sunburn and skin cancer; UVA
Ultraviolet
Ultraviolet light is electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength shorter than that of visible light, but longer than X-rays, in the range 10 nm to 400 nm, and energies from 3 eV to 124 eV...
rays cause wrinkling and may have some role in development of skin cancer. There is no official rating for UVA protection in the US. In Europe, there are several different rating systems that are used to measure effectiveness in blocking UVA rays, including the IPD (immediate pigment darkening assay) and the PPD (persistent pigment darkening assay). The UVB range is 280 to 320 nanometers, and the UVA range is 320 to 400. Ecamsule protects against UV wavelengths in the 290–400 nanometer range, with peak protection at 345 nm. Since ecamsule doesn't cover the entire UV spectrum, it should be combined with other active sunscreen agents to ensure broad-spectrum UV protection. Ecamsule is a photostable organic UVA absorber, meaning it doesn't degrade significantly when exposed to light. This is in contrast to the widely used UVA absorber avobenzone
Avobenzone
Avobenzone is an oil soluble ingredient used in sunscreen products to absorb the full spectrum of UVA rays....
that is not intrinsically photostable and requires photostabilizers to prevent significant degradation in light.
Efficacy
A 5% ecamsule containing sunscreen can prevent early changes leading to photoaging in humans. A broad spectrum sunscreen with ecamsule, avobenzone and octocryleneOctocrylene
Octocrylene is an organic compound used as an ingredient in sunscreens and cosmetics. It is an ester formed by the condensation of a diphenylcyanoacrylate with 2-ethylhexanol...
significantly reduces the skin damage associated with UV exposure in human subjects.
In studies done in mice it reduces the formation of UV induced pyrimidine dimers
Pyrimidine dimers
Pyrimidine dimers are molecular lesions formed from thymine or cytosine bases in DNA via photochemical reactions. Ultraviolet light induces the formation of covalent linkages by reactions localized on the C=C double bonds. In dsRNA, uracil dimers may also accumulate as a result of UV radiation...
and delays the onset of skin cancer. In vitro
In vitro
In vitro refers to studies in experimental biology that are conducted using components of an organism that have been isolated from their usual biological context in order to permit a more detailed or more convenient analysis than can be done with whole organisms. Colloquially, these experiments...
ecamsule effectively protects against the harmful effects of UV.
Safety
Ecamsule has little percutaneous absorption and little systemic effects, therefore it is considered relatively safe.A mouse study shows that it does not increase the probability of promoting skin cancer. Studies done in vitro show that it is not photomutagenic.
Because ecamsule is an acid
Acid
An acid is a substance which reacts with a base. Commonly, acids can be identified as tasting sour, reacting with metals such as calcium, and bases like sodium carbonate. Aqueous acids have a pH of less than 7, where an acid of lower pH is typically stronger, and turn blue litmus paper red...
it needs to be neutralized in order to be used without offsetting the final pH
PH
In chemistry, pH is a measure of the acidity or basicity of an aqueous solution. Pure water is said to be neutral, with a pH close to 7.0 at . Solutions with a pH less than 7 are said to be acidic and solutions with a pH greater than 7 are basic or alkaline...
of the sunscreen too much. Usually this is done with triethanolamine
Triethanolamine
Triethanolamine, often abbreviated as TEA, is an organic chemical compound which is both a tertiary amine and a triol. A triol is a molecule with three alcohol groups. Like other amines, triethanolamine is a strong base due to the lone pair of electrons on the nitrogen atom. Triethanolamine can...
.
Availability
L'Oréal patented ecamsule first in 1982. It was approved in the EU in 1991. Sunscreens based on ecamsule have been available in Europe, Canada and other parts of the world since 1993. Ecamsule was given approval by the FDA in 2006 to be used in the U.S. However this approval only extends to ecamsule containing sunscreens registered under a New Drug ApplicationNew drug application
The New Drug Application is the vehicle in the United States through which drug sponsors formally propose that the Food and Drug Administration approve a new pharmaceutical for sale and marketing...
, not ecamsule itself.
External links
- Why Is the Best Sunscreen Blocked by FDA?, John Stossel, 20/20 abcnews.com, June 17, 2005