Grand Teton
Encyclopedia
Grand Teton is the highest mountain
in Wyoming
's Grand Teton National Park
, and a classic destination in American mountaineering
.
, and the second highest peak in the U.S. state of Wyoming. The mountain is entirely within the Snake River
drainage basin
, which it feeds by several local creeks and glaciers. The Teton Range
is a subrange of the Rocky Mountains
, which extend from southern Alaska
to northern New Mexico
.
of 1870. But by 1931, the name Grand Teton Peak was in such common usage that it was recognized by the USGS
Board on Geographic Names. Another shift in usage led the Board to shorten the name on maps to Grand Teton in 1970.
The origin of the current name is controversial. The most common explanation is that "Grand Teton" means "large teat
" in French, named by either French-Canadian or Iroquois
members of an expedition led by Donald McKenzie of the North West Company
. However, other historians disagree, and claim that the mountain was named after the Teton Sioux tribe of Native American
s.
There is a disagreement over who first climbed Grand Teton. Nathaniel P. Langford
and James Stevenson claimed to have reached the summit on July 29, 1872. However, some believe their description and sketches match the summit of The Enclosure, a side peak of Grand Teton. The Enclosure is named after a man-made palisade of rocks on its summit, probably constructed by Native Americans
. When William O. Owen reached the summit in 1898, he found no trace of prior human passage. In all likelihood, The Enclosure was first climbed by Native Americans as suggested by Langford in 1873. Supporters of Owen included The Wyoming Legislature and Paul Petzoldt
, former pioneer American climber. Ironically among Langford's supporters was Franklin Spalding
, who led the ascent to the of the summit and tossed the rope that allowed Owen and the others to follow.
, to the Lower Saddle.
in the spring of 1971 down the Ford Couloir; a route near the Owen-Spalding is now named in his honor. This descent required a free rappel, which was completed with skis on. More casually, skiing is possible from the crest of the saddle
between the Grand and the Middle Teton
, continuously into the valley floor.
Mountain
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in Wyoming
Wyoming
Wyoming is a state in the mountain region of the Western United States. The western two thirds of the state is covered mostly with the mountain ranges and rangelands in the foothills of the Eastern Rocky Mountains, while the eastern third of the state is high elevation prairie known as the High...
's Grand Teton National Park
Grand Teton National Park
Grand Teton National Park is a United States National Park located in northwestern Wyoming, U.S. The Park consists of approximately and includes the major peaks of the long Teton Range as well as most of the northern sections of the valley known as Jackson Hole. Only south of Yellowstone...
, and a classic destination in American mountaineering
Mountaineering
Mountaineering or mountain climbing is the sport, hobby or profession of hiking, skiing, and climbing mountains. While mountaineering began as attempts to reach the highest point of unclimbed mountains it has branched into specialisations that address different aspects of the mountain and consists...
.
Geography
Grand Teton, at 13775 feet (4,199 m), is the high point of the Teton RangeTeton Range
The Teton Range is a mountain range of the Rocky Mountains in North America. A north-south range, it is on the Wyoming side of the state's border with Idaho, just south of Yellowstone National Park. Most of the range is in Grand Teton National Park....
, and the second highest peak in the U.S. state of Wyoming. The mountain is entirely within the Snake River
Snake River
The Snake is a major river of the greater Pacific Northwest in the United States. At long, it is the largest tributary of the Columbia River, the largest North American river that empties into the Pacific Ocean...
drainage basin
Drainage basin
A drainage basin is an extent or an area of land where surface water from rain and melting snow or ice converges to a single point, usually the exit of the basin, where the waters join another waterbody, such as a river, lake, reservoir, estuary, wetland, sea, or ocean...
, which it feeds by several local creeks and glaciers. The Teton Range
Teton Range
The Teton Range is a mountain range of the Rocky Mountains in North America. A north-south range, it is on the Wyoming side of the state's border with Idaho, just south of Yellowstone National Park. Most of the range is in Grand Teton National Park....
is a subrange of the Rocky Mountains
Rocky Mountains
The Rocky Mountains are a major mountain range in western North America. The Rocky Mountains stretch more than from the northernmost part of British Columbia, in western Canada, to New Mexico, in the southwestern United States...
, which extend from southern Alaska
Alaska
Alaska is the largest state in the United States by area. It is situated in the northwest extremity of the North American continent, with Canada to the east, the Arctic Ocean to the north, and the Pacific Ocean to the west and south, with Russia further west across the Bering Strait...
to northern New Mexico
New Mexico
New Mexico is a state located in the southwest and western regions of the United States. New Mexico is also usually considered one of the Mountain States. With a population density of 16 per square mile, New Mexico is the sixth-most sparsely inhabited U.S...
.
Name
Grand Teton's name was first recorded as Mount Hayden by the Washburn-Langford-Doane ExpeditionWashburn-Langford-Doane Expedition
The Washburn Expedition of 1870, explored the region of northwestern Wyoming that a couple years later became Yellowstone National Park. Led by Henry Washburn, Nathaniel P. Langford and under U.S. Army escort led by Lt. Gustavus C...
of 1870. But by 1931, the name Grand Teton Peak was in such common usage that it was recognized by the USGS
United States Geological Survey
The United States Geological Survey is a scientific agency of the United States government. The scientists of the USGS study the landscape of the United States, its natural resources, and the natural hazards that threaten it. The organization has four major science disciplines, concerning biology,...
Board on Geographic Names. Another shift in usage led the Board to shorten the name on maps to Grand Teton in 1970.
The origin of the current name is controversial. The most common explanation is that "Grand Teton" means "large teat
Breast
The breast is the upper ventral region of the torso of a primate, in left and right sides, which in a female contains the mammary gland that secretes milk used to feed infants.Both men and women develop breasts from the same embryological tissues...
" in French, named by either French-Canadian or Iroquois
Iroquois
The Iroquois , also known as the Haudenosaunee or the "People of the Longhouse", are an association of several tribes of indigenous people of North America...
members of an expedition led by Donald McKenzie of the North West Company
North West Company
The North West Company was a fur trading business headquartered in Montreal from 1779 to 1821. It competed with increasing success against the Hudson's Bay Company in what was to become Western Canada...
. However, other historians disagree, and claim that the mountain was named after the Teton Sioux tribe of Native American
Native Americans in the United States
Native Americans in the United States are the indigenous peoples in North America within the boundaries of the present-day continental United States, parts of Alaska, and the island state of Hawaii. They are composed of numerous, distinct tribes, states, and ethnic groups, many of which survive as...
s.
First ascent
Nathaniel P. Langford
Nathaniel Pitt Langford was an explorer, businessman, bureaucrat, vigilante and historian from St. Paul, Minnesota who played an important role in the early years of the Montana gold fields, territorial government and the creation of Yellowstone National Park.-Montana Gold Fields:On June 16, 1862...
and James Stevenson claimed to have reached the summit on July 29, 1872. However, some believe their description and sketches match the summit of The Enclosure, a side peak of Grand Teton. The Enclosure is named after a man-made palisade of rocks on its summit, probably constructed by Native Americans
Native Americans in the United States
Native Americans in the United States are the indigenous peoples in North America within the boundaries of the present-day continental United States, parts of Alaska, and the island state of Hawaii. They are composed of numerous, distinct tribes, states, and ethnic groups, many of which survive as...
. When William O. Owen reached the summit in 1898, he found no trace of prior human passage. In all likelihood, The Enclosure was first climbed by Native Americans as suggested by Langford in 1873. Supporters of Owen included The Wyoming Legislature and Paul Petzoldt
Paul Petzoldt
Paul Kiesow Petzoldt was one of America's most accomplished mountaineers. He is perhaps best known for establishing the National Outdoor Leadership School in 1965. Paul made his first ascent of the Grand Teton in 1924 at the age of 16, becoming the youngest person at the time to have done so...
, former pioneer American climber. Ironically among Langford's supporters was Franklin Spalding
Franklin Spencer Spalding
Franklin Spencer Spalding was an Episcopal Bishop of Utah during the early 20th century who advocated Socialism as part of the Christian message.In November 1914 issue of The Christian Socialist Spalding states:...
, who led the ascent to the of the summit and tossed the rope that allowed Owen and the others to follow.
First Descents
- First Male Alpine Descent-Bill Briggs, 1971
- First Female Alpine Descent- Kristen Ulmer, 1997
- First Male Telemark Descent- Rick Wyatt, 1982
- First Female Telemark Descent- AK Cagily, 2004
- First Male Snowboard Descent- Stephen Koch, 1989
- First Female Snowboard Descent- Dani deRuyter, 2010
Climbing routes
Grand Teton can be climbed via the Owen-Spalding Route (II, 5.4). However, it is highly exposed and experience is recommended. The Owen-Spalding route is named for the climbers who claim to have made the first: William Owen, Franklin Spalding, Frank Peterson, and John Shive. There is some debate as to which person made the first ascent, but many agree this group was the first. Their route begins at the Upper Saddle which is reached by walking from Lupine Meadows Trailhead, up Garnet CanyonGarnet Canyon
Garnet Canyon is located in Grand Teton National Park in the U.S. state of Wyoming. The canyon was formed by retreating glaciers which reached their last glacial maximum around 15,000 years ago...
, to the Lower Saddle.
- The most popular route up the mountain is via the Upper Exum Ridge RouteUpper Exum Ridge RouteThe Upper Exum Ridge Route is the upper section of a technical rock climbing up the Grand Teton's Exum Ridge in Wyoming.The route and ridge is named after Glenn Exum who pioneered the climb, via a solo ascent, on a day when his mentor Paul Petzoldt was guiding a couple up the original...
(II, 5.5) on the Exum Ridge, an exposed route first climbed by Glenn ExumGlenn ExumGlenn Exum numbers among the premier mountaineers in American climbing history. Exum is best remembered for ascents in the Teton Range. In 1931, while only in his teens, Exum was the first to climb the exposed ridge to the summit of Grand Teton which now bears his name...
, co-founder of Exum Mountain GuidesExum Mountain GuidesThe Exum Mountain Guides is a mountain guide service based in the U.S. state of Wyoming. The guide service was founded in the 1926 by Paul Petzoldt and Glenn Exum, for whom the Exum Ridge climbing route on the Grand Teton in Grand Teton National Park is named...
. Much of the climbing is fourth class, with one wide step from the end of Wall Street Ledge to the Ridge comprising the first stretch of technical climbing. Other notable pitches include the Golden Staircase (immediately following the traverse from Wall Street Ledge), the Friction Pitch (considered the most difficult pitch on the route), and the V-Pitch. The direct start of the Exum Ridge using the Lower Exum Ridge RouteLower Exum Ridge RouteThe Lower Exum Ridge Route is the lower section of a technical rock climbing up the Grand Teton's Exum Ridge in Wyoming. This route is often bypassed on hiking terrain by climbers who wish to climb only Upper Exum Ridge Route which is technically easier. This route is listed as the Direct Exum...
(III, 5.7,) is considered a mountaineering classic and is featured in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North AmericaFifty Classic Climbs of North AmericaFifty Classic Climbs Of North America is a climbing guidebook and history written by Steve Roper and Allen Steck. It is considered a definitive piece of climbing literature, known to many climbers as simply "The Book", and has served as an inspiration for more recent climbing books, such as Mark...
.
- In addition to the Direct Exum Ridge Route, the classic guidebook also features the North RidgeNorth Ridge (Grand Teton)The North Ridge of the Grand Teton is a technical rock climbing location up the Grand Teton in Wyoming. The route is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and considered a classic around the world....
(IV, 5.8) and North FaceNorth Face (Grand Teton)The North Face of the Grand Teton is a technical rock climbing up the Grand Teton in Wyoming. Today the route is usually climbed by a variation that avoids the chimneys which are often wet or icy. The route is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and...
with Direct Finish (IV, 5.8), both of which ascend the dramatic northern aspect of the peak. The Grand Teton has the most routes listed in the Fifty Classic Climbs of North AmericaFifty Classic Climbs of North AmericaFifty Classic Climbs Of North America is a climbing guidebook and history written by Steve Roper and Allen Steck. It is considered a definitive piece of climbing literature, known to many climbers as simply "The Book", and has served as an inspiration for more recent climbing books, such as Mark...
of any peak. The only other to have more than one route listed is El CapitanEl CapitanEl Capitan is a vertical rock formation in Yosemite National Park, located on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The granite monolith extends about from base to summit along its tallest face, and is one of the world's favorite challenges for rock climbers.The formation was...
, with The NoseThe Nose (El Capitan)The Nose is one of the original technical climbing routes up El Capitan. Once considered impossible to climb, El Capitan is now the standard for big-wall climbing...
and Salathé WallSalathé Wall (El Capitan)The Salathé Wall is one of the original technical climbing routes up El Capitan, a high granite monolith in Yosemite National Park. The Salathé Wall was named by Yvon Chouinard in honor of John Salathé, a pioneer of rock climbing in Yosemite...
. These inclusions have helped maintain the fame of the peak in the climbing community. Since the Tetons' first ascent, 38 routes with 58 variations have been established.
Ski descent
The Grand Teton has been skied by three routes, each requiring at least one rappel. The first descent on skis was made by Bill BriggsBill Briggs
Bill Briggs is the director of the Great American Ski School at Snow King Mountain in Jackson, Wyoming in the United States. Briggs, born in Maine, is notable as the first to ski the Grand Teton on June 15, 1971 and as a result is said to be the father of extreme skiing in North America.His route...
in the spring of 1971 down the Ford Couloir; a route near the Owen-Spalding is now named in his honor. This descent required a free rappel, which was completed with skis on. More casually, skiing is possible from the crest of the saddle
Saddle
A saddle is a supportive structure for a rider or other load, fastened to an animal's back by a girth. The most common type is the equestrian saddle designed for a horse, but specialized saddles have been created for camels and other creatures...
between the Grand and the Middle Teton
Middle Teton
Middle Teton is the third highest peak in the Teton Range, Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming. The peak is immediately southwest of Grand Teton and the two are separated from one another by the lower saddle, a broad high ridge at . The Middle Teton Glacier is located on the eastern slopes of the...
, continuously into the valley floor.
See also
- 4000 meter peaks of North America
- Central Rocky Mountains
- Mountain peaks of North AmericaMountain peaks of North AmericaThis article comprises three sortable tables of major mountain peaks of greater North America.This article defines greater North America as the portion of the continental landmass of the Americas extending northward from Panama plus the islands surrounding that landmass...
- Mountain peaks of the Rocky MountainsMountain peaks of the Rocky MountainsThis article comprises three sortable tables of major mountain peaks of the Rocky Mountains of North America.Topographic elevation is the vertical distance above the reference geoid, a precise mathematical model of the Earth's sea level as an equipotential gravitational surface...
- Mountain peaks of the United StatesMountain peaks of the United StatesThis article comprises three sortable tables of the major mountain peaks of the United States of America.Topographic elevation is the vertical distance above the reference geoid, a precise mathematical model of the Earth's sea level as an equipotential gravitational surface...
- Breast shaped hillBreast shaped hillA breast-shaped hill is a mountain in the shape of a human breast. Such anthropomorphic geographic features are to be found in different places of the world and in some cultures they were revered as the attributes of the Mother Goddess, like the Paps of Anu, named after Anu, an important goddess of...
- Geology of the Grand Teton areaGeology of the Grand Teton areaThe geology of the Grand Teton area consists of some of the oldest rocks and one of the youngest mountain ranges in North America. The Teton Range, mostly located in Grand Teton National Park, started to grow some 9 million years ago...