Great Bernera
Encyclopedia
Great Bernera often known just as Bernera is an island and community
in the Outer Hebrides
of Scotland
. With an area of just over 21 km² (8.1 sq mi), it is the thirty-fourth largest Scottish island.
Great Bernera lies in Loch Roag on the north-west coast of Lewis
and is linked to it by a road bridge. Built in 1953, the bridge was the first pre-stressed concrete bridge in Europe. The main settlement on the island is Breaclete
(Gaelic: Breacleit).
The island, under the name of "Borva", was the setting for A Princess of Thule (1873) by the Scottish novelist William Black. The novel is notable for its descriptions of the local scenery.
The island's name is Norse in origin as are many other names in the district, implying extensive Norse settlement.
The most common name on Great Bernera is MacDonald
(MacDhòmhnaill or Dòmhnallach),
and these are said to be descended from a watchman of the Macaulays of Uig, who gave
him the island in return for his services.
Since 1962, the island has been owned by Robin de la Lanne-Mirrlees
, a former Queen's Herald, who is recognised as Laird of Bernera. He has a house and fish farm at Kirkibost
.
is a unique standing stone arrangement near the bridge between Lewis and Bernera, set out in a semicircle. It is known locally as Tursachan, which means merely "Standing Stones". The ruins of Dun Barraglom broch
are nearby.
(or possibly Pictish
) settlement at Bostadh, discovered in 1992 and now covered by sand to preserve it. A replica Iron Age house matching those now buried is sited nearby.
, where crofter
s resisted the Highland clearances
. The riot took place in 1874, and occurred as a reaction to heavy-handed evictions and treatment by the factor of Sir James Matheson
, Donald Munro. The islanders refused to agree to an ever increasing diminishing grazings allowance at the expense of expanding sporting estates and were in turn threatened with a military visit. This did not occur, but even more eviction notices were handed out, and the visitors were pelted with clods of earth.
The island is roughly 8 km long by 3 km wide, the length being oriented from north west to south east. The coast is much indented and there are also numerous fresh water bodies such as Loch Barabhat, Loch Breacleit and Loch Niosabhat. The highest point is an un-named eminence south of Bostadh and north of Tobson that reaches 87 metres (285 ft). There are deposits of muscovite
and tremolite asbestos
. An example of a rock of tremolite on muscovite from Great Bernera is shown in the photograph to the right.
The western side of the island is included in the South Lewis, Harris and North Uist
National Scenic Area
.
, Vacsay
(Bhacsaigh), Fuaigh Mòr
(Vuia Mòr), and Fuaigh Beag
(Vuia Beg). To the north, the island of Bearnaraigh Beag (Little Bernera
), and a number of islets. To the east, there are not so many islands, but there is Eilean Chearstaidh
(Eilean Kerstay) to the south east.
Sea life is especially rich where there is tidal run between the Caolas Bhalasaigh (English: "Valasay Straits/Kyles") and the inner sea-loch of Tòb Bhalasaigh. There are numerous molluscs
, sponges, brittlestars
, and sea star
s, the latter growing noticeably larger in size than normal. Cup Coral, Snakelocks Anemone
and Dead Man's Fingers
coral, may also be found here. Common fish include Shanny and Butterfish and Atlantic
and Common Seals are regular off-shore visitors.
Great Bernera hosts numerous sea bird species, including gulls, waders and ducks such as Goldeneye
. More unusually, a Jack Snipe
was observed on the island in 2007.
Great Bernera's population is mainly dependent on lobster fishing
, crofting and tourism. Fertile machair pasture permits sheep and cattle grazing. A processing plant was built at Kirkibost
in 1972. There are still some weavers but this is no longer one of the main industries. Breacleit is home to a small museum
, mini-mart & off licence, school, a post office, church, community centre with café, petrol station, fire station and doctor's surgery.
Communications were much improved during the 20th century. The first telephone
was installed on Lewis in 1897 and outlying villages were slowly connected. Great Bernera was the last exchange to link to Lewis with a single wire circuit and an earth return. The bridge to the island from Lewis was built in 1953. It is said to be the first one of pre-stressed concrete in Europe. It was constructed after the islanders threatened to dynamite the hillside to create a causeway of their own making.
In 2003 the island residents were considering a feasibility study into bringing the island into community ownership, a process that has been successfully completed by the islanders of Gigha
and Eigg
. However, the laird is apparently popular locally and has said he is unwilling to sell.
Community council
A community council is a public representative body in Great Britain.In England they may be statutory parish councils by another name, under the Local Government and Public Involvement in Health Act 2007, or they may be non-statutory bodies...
in the Outer Hebrides
Outer Hebrides
The Outer Hebrides also known as the Western Isles and the Long Island, is an island chain off the west coast of Scotland. The islands are geographically contiguous with Comhairle nan Eilean Siar, one of the 32 unitary council areas of Scotland...
of Scotland
Scotland
Scotland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Occupying the northern third of the island of Great Britain, it shares a border with England to the south and is bounded by the North Sea to the east, the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, and the North Channel and Irish Sea to the...
. With an area of just over 21 km² (8.1 sq mi), it is the thirty-fourth largest Scottish island.
Great Bernera lies in Loch Roag on the north-west coast of Lewis
Lewis
Lewis is the northern part of Lewis and Harris, the largest island of the Western Isles or Outer Hebrides of Scotland. The total area of Lewis is ....
and is linked to it by a road bridge. Built in 1953, the bridge was the first pre-stressed concrete bridge in Europe. The main settlement on the island is Breaclete
Breaclete
Breaclete is a village on Great Bernera in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland.It is home to a small museum, mini-mart & off licence, school, a post office, church, community centre with café, petrol station, fire station and doctor's surgery.Breaclete was the birthplace of Callum Macdonald...
(Gaelic: Breacleit).
The island, under the name of "Borva", was the setting for A Princess of Thule (1873) by the Scottish novelist William Black. The novel is notable for its descriptions of the local scenery.
History
The most common name on Great Bernera is MacDonald
Macdonald
MacDonald, Macdonald, and McDonald are Anglicised forms of the Scottish Gaelic name MacDhòmhnaill. It is a patronym where Mac means "son" and Dhòmhnaill means "of Dòmhnall". The personal name Dòmhnall is composed of the elements domno "world" and val "might", "rule"...
(MacDhòmhnaill or Dòmhnallach),
and these are said to be descended from a watchman of the Macaulays of Uig, who gave
him the island in return for his services.
Since 1962, the island has been owned by Robin de la Lanne-Mirrlees
Robin de la Lanne-Mirrlees
Robin Ian Evelyn Milne Stuart de la Lanne-Mirrlees is an author and former officer of arms at the College of Arms in London....
, a former Queen's Herald, who is recognised as Laird of Bernera. He has a house and fish farm at Kirkibost
Kirkibost
Kirkibost is a low-lying island west of North Uist in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland.-Geography:Kirkibost, along with neighbouring Baleshare, is covered by a machair system of coastal plains covered with shell sand, part covered by grass, with some sand dunes, fens and peat. Together with...
.
Calanais VIII
Callanish VIIICallanish VIII
The Callanish VIII stone setting is one of many megalithic structures around the better-known Calanais I on the west coast of the isle of Lewis, in the Outer Hebrides , Scotland...
is a unique standing stone arrangement near the bridge between Lewis and Bernera, set out in a semicircle. It is known locally as Tursachan, which means merely "Standing Stones". The ruins of Dun Barraglom broch
Broch
A broch is an Iron Age drystone hollow-walled structure of a type found only in Scotland. Brochs include some of the most sophisticated examples of drystone architecture ever created, and belong to the classification "complex Atlantic Roundhouse" devised by Scottish archaeologists in the 1980s....
are nearby.
Bostadh
Bernera is also known for its Iron AgeIron Age
The Iron Age is the archaeological period generally occurring after the Bronze Age, marked by the prevalent use of iron. The early period of the age is characterized by the widespread use of iron or steel. The adoption of such material coincided with other changes in society, including differing...
(or possibly Pictish
Picts
The Picts were a group of Late Iron Age and Early Mediaeval people living in what is now eastern and northern Scotland. There is an association with the distribution of brochs, place names beginning 'Pit-', for instance Pitlochry, and Pictish stones. They are recorded from before the Roman conquest...
) settlement at Bostadh, discovered in 1992 and now covered by sand to preserve it. A replica Iron Age house matching those now buried is sited nearby.
Bernera Riot
The island was the location of the Bernera RiotBernera Riot
The Bernera Riot occurred in 1874, on the island of Great Bernera, inScotland in response to the Highland Clearances.-Location:Great Bernera is an island in Loch Roag, off the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides. It is fairly close to Lewis, but it was not until 1953 that a bridge was built, after...
, where crofter
Croft (land)
A croft is a fenced or enclosed area of land, usually small and arable with a crofter's dwelling thereon. A crofter is one who has tenure and use of the land, typically as a tenant farmer.- Etymology :...
s resisted the Highland clearances
Highland Clearances
The Highland Clearances were forced displacements of the population of the Scottish Highlands during the 18th and 19th centuries. They led to mass emigration to the sea coast, the Scottish Lowlands, and the North American colonies...
. The riot took place in 1874, and occurred as a reaction to heavy-handed evictions and treatment by the factor of Sir James Matheson
James Matheson
Sir James Nicolas Sutherland Matheson, 1st Baronet , born in Shiness, Lairg, Sutherland, Scotland, was the son of Captain Donald Matheson, a Scottish trader in India...
, Donald Munro. The islanders refused to agree to an ever increasing diminishing grazings allowance at the expense of expanding sporting estates and were in turn threatened with a military visit. This did not occur, but even more eviction notices were handed out, and the visitors were pelted with clods of earth.
Geography and geology
Muscovite
Muscovite is a phyllosilicate mineral of aluminium and potassium with formula KAl22, or 236. It has a highly-perfect basal cleavage yielding remarkably-thin laminæ which are often highly elastic...
and tremolite asbestos
Asbestos
Asbestos is a set of six naturally occurring silicate minerals used commercially for their desirable physical properties. They all have in common their eponymous, asbestiform habit: long, thin fibrous crystals...
. An example of a rock of tremolite on muscovite from Great Bernera is shown in the photograph to the right.
The western side of the island is included in the South Lewis, Harris and North Uist
North Uist
North Uist is an island and community in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland.-Geography:North Uist is the tenth largest Scottish island and the thirteenth largest island surrounding Great Britain. It has an area of , slightly smaller than South Uist. North Uist is connected by causeways to Benbecula...
National Scenic Area
National Scenic Area
National Scenic Area is a designation for areas of natural beauty used by more than one nation.* National Scenic Area * National Scenic Area * National scenic areas in Taiwan* National Scenic Area...
.
Surrounding Islands
There are many islands in Loch Roag. to the west, from north to south are Pabaigh MòrPabaigh Mòr
Pabay Mòr or Pabaigh Mòr is an uninhabited island in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland.-History:The island's name comes from papey, an Old Norse name meaning "Island of the papar or culdees"...
, Vacsay
Vacsay
Vacsay is one of the Outer Hebrides. It is off the west coast of Lewis in West Loch Roag. It is in size, and 34 metres at its highest point.-History:...
(Bhacsaigh), Fuaigh Mòr
Fuaigh Mòr
Fuaigh Mòr or Vuia Mòr is an island in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland. It is off the west coast of Lewis near Great Bernera in Loch Roag. It is and at its highest point.-History:...
(Vuia Mòr), and Fuaigh Beag
Fuaigh Beag
Fuaigh Beag or Vuia Beg is an island in the Outer Hebrides. It is off the west coast of Lewis near Great Bernera in Loch Roag. Its name means "little Fuaigh", and is named in contrast to Fuaigh Mòr nearby.-History:...
(Vuia Beg). To the north, the island of Bearnaraigh Beag (Little Bernera
Little Bernera
Little Bernera is a small island situated off the west coast of the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides.Little Bernera lies between the sea lochs of West and East Loch Roag, immediately to the north of Great Bernera...
), and a number of islets. To the east, there are not so many islands, but there is Eilean Chearstaidh
Eilean Chearstaidh
Eilean Kearstay is an uninhabited island in Loch Roag in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland.It lies south east of Great Bernera, just across the water from the headland of Callanish....
(Eilean Kerstay) to the south east.
Flora and fauna
Mollusca
The Mollusca , common name molluscs or mollusksSpelled mollusks in the USA, see reasons given in Rosenberg's ; for the spelling mollusc see the reasons given by , is a large phylum of invertebrate animals. There are around 85,000 recognized extant species of molluscs. Mollusca is the largest...
, sponges, brittlestars
Brittle star
Brittle stars or ophiuroids are echinoderms in the class Ophiuroidea closely related to starfish. They crawl across the seafloor using their flexible arms for locomotion. The ophiuroids generally have five long slender, whip-like arms which may reach up to in length on the largest specimens...
, and sea star
Sea star
Starfish or sea stars are echinoderms belonging to the class Asteroidea. The names "starfish" and "sea star" essentially refer to members of the class Asteroidea...
s, the latter growing noticeably larger in size than normal. Cup Coral, Snakelocks Anemone
Snakelocks anemone
The snakelocks anemone is a sea anemone found in the eastern Atlantic ocean to the Mediterranean sea.The tentacles of anemones in deep or murky water can be a grey colour but are otherwise usually a deep green colour with purple tips. This is due to the presence of symbiotic algae within the...
and Dead Man's Fingers
Alcyonium digitatum
Alcyonium digitatum or dead man's fingers is a species of soft coral in the Alcyoniidae family. It is found around the coasts of the northern Atlantic Ocean.-Description:...
coral, may also be found here. Common fish include Shanny and Butterfish and Atlantic
Grey Seal
The grey seal is found on both shores of the North Atlantic Ocean. It is a large seal of the family Phocidae or "true seals". It is the only species classified in the genus Halichoerus...
and Common Seals are regular off-shore visitors.
Great Bernera hosts numerous sea bird species, including gulls, waders and ducks such as Goldeneye
GoldenEye
GoldenEye is the seventeenth spy film in the James Bond series, and the first to star Pierce Brosnan as the fictional MI6 agent James Bond. The film was directed by Martin Campbell and is the first film in the series not to take story elements from the works of novelist Ian Fleming...
. More unusually, a Jack Snipe
Jack Snipe
The Jack Snipe, Lymnocryptes minimus is a small stocky wader. It is the smallest snipe, and the only member of the genus Lymnocryptes...
was observed on the island in 2007.
Economy and infrastructure
Lobster fishing
Lobster fishing, sometimes called lobstering, is the commercial or recreational harvesting of marine lobsters, spiny lobsters or crayfish.-Lobster tools and technology:...
, crofting and tourism. Fertile machair pasture permits sheep and cattle grazing. A processing plant was built at Kirkibost
Kirkibost
Kirkibost is a low-lying island west of North Uist in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland.-Geography:Kirkibost, along with neighbouring Baleshare, is covered by a machair system of coastal plains covered with shell sand, part covered by grass, with some sand dunes, fens and peat. Together with...
in 1972. There are still some weavers but this is no longer one of the main industries. Breacleit is home to a small museum
Museum
A museum is an institution that cares for a collection of artifacts and other objects of scientific, artistic, cultural, or historical importance and makes them available for public viewing through exhibits that may be permanent or temporary. Most large museums are located in major cities...
, mini-mart & off licence, school, a post office, church, community centre with café, petrol station, fire station and doctor's surgery.
Communications were much improved during the 20th century. The first telephone
Telephone
The telephone , colloquially referred to as a phone, is a telecommunications device that transmits and receives sounds, usually the human voice. Telephones are a point-to-point communication system whose most basic function is to allow two people separated by large distances to talk to each other...
was installed on Lewis in 1897 and outlying villages were slowly connected. Great Bernera was the last exchange to link to Lewis with a single wire circuit and an earth return. The bridge to the island from Lewis was built in 1953. It is said to be the first one of pre-stressed concrete in Europe. It was constructed after the islanders threatened to dynamite the hillside to create a causeway of their own making.
In 2003 the island residents were considering a feasibility study into bringing the island into community ownership, a process that has been successfully completed by the islanders of Gigha
Gigha
The Isle of Gigha is a small island off the west coast of Kintyre in Scotland. The island forms part of Argyll and Bute and has a population of about 150 people, many of whom speak Scottish Gaelic. The climate is mild with higher than average sunshine hours and the soils are fertile.Gigha has a...
and Eigg
Eigg
Eigg is one of the Small Isles, in the Scottish Inner Hebrides. It lies to the south of the Skye and to the north of the Ardnamurchan peninsula. Eigg is long from north to south, and east to west. With an area of , it is the second largest of the Small Isles after Rùm.-Geography:The main...
. However, the laird is apparently popular locally and has said he is unwilling to sell.
Notable residents and visitors
- The former Chancellor of the ExchequerChancellor of the ExchequerThe Chancellor of the Exchequer is the title held by the British Cabinet minister who is responsible for all economic and financial matters. Often simply called the Chancellor, the office-holder controls HM Treasury and plays a role akin to the posts of Minister of Finance or Secretary of the...
, Alistair DarlingAlistair DarlingAlistair Maclean Darling is a Scottish Labour Party politician who has been a Member of Parliament since 1987, currently for Edinburgh South West. He served as the Chancellor of the Exchequer from 2007 to 2010...
owns a converted blackhouseBlack houseA blackhouse is a traditional type of house which used to be common in the Highlands of Scotland, the Hebrides, and Ireland.- Origin of the name :...
at Breaclete, and his mother's family were from the island
- Callum Macdonald, arguably the most important publisher of Scottish poetry of the 20th century, who was born on the island.
- Birthplace of Captain Murdo Stewart MacDonaldMurdo Stewart MacDonaldCaptain Murdo Stewart MacDonald was known to the whole of the nautical world as the last of the Sea-Barons.-Early life:MacDonald was born in about 1852 in Tigh a Chaolais, Great Bernera, Isle of Lewis, Scotland. He was the 6th child of John MacDonald 'an Domhnullach' of Tigh a Chaolais...
(1852–1938) the last Sea Baron and Lloyd Surveyor of Shipping