Greg Noll
Encyclopedia
Greg Noll nicknamed "Da Bull" by Phil Edwards
in reference to his physique and way of "charging" down the face of a wave, is an American pioneer of big wave surfing
and is also acknowledged as a prominent longboard shaper. Noll was a member of a US lifeguard team that introduced malibu boards to Australia around the time of the Melbourne Olympic Games. Noll also produced a "legendary" series of 5 Search for Surf movies.
. Noll began surfing age 11 in the South Bay
, he was a member of Manhattan Beach Surf Club where he learned board shaping from Dale Velzy. Noll was a member of the Los Angeles County Lifeguards
and competed in paddleboarding
. Noll developed his big wave surfing in Palos Verdes
at breaks like Lunada Bay. He moved to Hawaii in 1954, where he finished highschool, and lived and surfed at Makaha.
in November 1964.
It was later at Makaha, in December 1969, that he rode what many at the time believed to be the largest wave ever surfed. After that wave and the ensuing wipeout during the course of that spectacular ride down the face of a massive dark wall of water, his surfing tapered off and he closed his Hermosa Beach shop in the early 1970s. He and other surfers such as Pat Curren, Mike Stang, Buzzy Trent
, George Downing, Mickey Munoz
, Wally Froyseth, Fred Van Dyke and Peter Cole are viewed as the most daring surfers of their generation.
Noll is readily identified in film footage while surfing by his now iconic black and white horizontally striped "jailhouse" boardshorts.
The surfing exploits of Noll and other big wave legends were chronicled in the documentary Riding Giants
. Noll (with Laird Hamilton
and Jeff Clark) also provides his entertaining perspective on Hawaiian big wave surfing that is indexed as a commentary track found in the Riding Giants DVD.
with his wife and shapes re-creations of some of the historic boards from the sport of surfing. Some of these are: Olos and Alaias, a replica of a Duke Kahanamoku
board, Malibu Chips, Guns, Da Cats, Pacific System Homes and others.
Phil Edwards (surfer)
Philip Edwards is a legendary surfer. He is credited with being the first to surf the Banzai pipeline in Hawaii, being the first professional surfer, and creating the first signature surf board. He was the subject of a cover story, and his photo appeared on the cover of Sports Illustrated in 1966...
in reference to his physique and way of "charging" down the face of a wave, is an American pioneer of big wave surfing
Big wave surfing
Big wave surfing is a discipline within surfing in which experienced surfers paddle into or are towed onto waves which are at least 20 feet high, on surf boards known as "guns" or "rhino chasers". Sizes of the board needed to successfully surf these waves vary by the size of the wave as well as...
and is also acknowledged as a prominent longboard shaper. Noll was a member of a US lifeguard team that introduced malibu boards to Australia around the time of the Melbourne Olympic Games. Noll also produced a "legendary" series of 5 Search for Surf movies.
Early life
Noll was born in San Diego, California. At the age of 3, Noll moved with his family to Manhattan Beach, CaliforniaManhattan Beach, California
Manhattan Beach is the wealthiest beachfront city located in southwestern Los Angeles County, California, USA. The city is on the Pacific coast, south of El Segundo, and north of Hermosa Beach. Manhattan Beach is the home of both beach and indoor volleyball, and surfing. During the winter, the...
. Noll began surfing age 11 in the South Bay
South Bay, Los Angeles
The South Bay is a region of the southwest peninsula of Los Angeles County, California, United States. The name stems from its geographic features stretching along the southern shores of Santa Monica Bay which forms its western border.The picture at right uses the broadest definition of the...
, he was a member of Manhattan Beach Surf Club where he learned board shaping from Dale Velzy. Noll was a member of the Los Angeles County Lifeguards
Los Angeles County Lifeguards
Los Angeles County Lifeguards is a division of the Los Angeles County Fire Department. The lifeguard operations safeguard of beach and of coastline, from San Pedro in the south, to Malibu in the north...
and competed in paddleboarding
Paddleboarding
Paddleboarding is a surface water sport in which the participant is propelled by a swimming motion usually on a long surfboard close to the shore. A derivative of paddleboarding is stand up paddle surfing.-History:...
. Noll developed his big wave surfing in Palos Verdes
Palos Verdes
Palos Verdes is a name often used to refer to a group of coastal cities in the Palos Verdes Hills on the Palos Verdes Peninsula, within southwestern Los Angeles County in the U.S...
at breaks like Lunada Bay. He moved to Hawaii in 1954, where he finished highschool, and lived and surfed at Makaha.
Big waves
Noll became known for his exploits in large Hawaiian surf on the North Shore of Oahu. He first gained a reputation in November 1957 after surfing Waimea Bay in 25–30 ft surf when it had previously been thought impossible even to the local Hawaiians. He is perhaps best known for being the first surfer to ride a wave breaking on the outside reef at the so-called Banzai PipelineBanzai Pipeline
The Banzai Pipeline, or simply "Pipeline" or "Pipe," is a surf reef break located in Hawaii, off Ehukai Beach Park in Pupukea on O'ahu's North Shore. A reef break is an area in the ocean where waves start to break once they reach the shallows of a reef...
in November 1964.
It was later at Makaha, in December 1969, that he rode what many at the time believed to be the largest wave ever surfed. After that wave and the ensuing wipeout during the course of that spectacular ride down the face of a massive dark wall of water, his surfing tapered off and he closed his Hermosa Beach shop in the early 1970s. He and other surfers such as Pat Curren, Mike Stang, Buzzy Trent
Buzzy Trent
Buzzy Trent was a pioneer of big wave surfing. Born in San Diego and raised in Santa Monica, he body surfed as a child and started surfing at age 12. He moved to Hawaii in 1952 to surf and pioneered big wave surfing along with George Downing and Greg Noll...
, George Downing, Mickey Munoz
Mickey Munoz
Mickey Munoz, born in New York City in 1937, is one of the early pioneers of surfing but is perhaps more famous for his work as a surfboard shaper. Munoz, a historical figure in the surfing world, has been featured in many popular surfing documentaries such as the 2004 film Riding Giants...
, Wally Froyseth, Fred Van Dyke and Peter Cole are viewed as the most daring surfers of their generation.
Noll is readily identified in film footage while surfing by his now iconic black and white horizontally striped "jailhouse" boardshorts.
The surfing exploits of Noll and other big wave legends were chronicled in the documentary Riding Giants
Riding Giants
Riding Giants is a 2004 documentary film directed and narrated by Stacy Peralta, a famous skater/surfer who helped define modern skateboarding. The movie traces the origins of surfing and specifically focuses on the art of big wave riding...
. Noll (with Laird Hamilton
Laird Hamilton
Laird Hamilton is an American big-wave surfer, co-inventor of tow-in surfing, and an occasional fashion and action-sports model. He is married to Gabrielle Reece, a professional volleyball player, television personality, and model...
and Jeff Clark) also provides his entertaining perspective on Hawaiian big wave surfing that is indexed as a commentary track found in the Riding Giants DVD.
Board shaping
Having shaped surfboards since his youth, and having founded his own surfboard business in the 1950s which reached a high level of commercial success; Noll changed to two decades of commercial fishing, the resurgence of longboards brought Noll back to resume shaping and organize events. Today Noll lives in Hiouchi, CaliforniaHiouchi, California
Hiouchi is a census-designated place in Del Norte County, California. It is located on the Smith River east-northeast of Crescent City, at an elevation of 171 feet . Hiouchi's population is 301.-Demographics:...
with his wife and shapes re-creations of some of the historic boards from the sport of surfing. Some of these are: Olos and Alaias, a replica of a Duke Kahanamoku
Duke Kahanamoku
Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku was a Hawaiian swimmer, actor, lawman, early beach volleyball player and businessman credited with spreading the sport of surfing. He was a five-time Olympic medalist in swimming.-Early years:The name "Duke" is not a title, but a given name...
board, Malibu Chips, Guns, Da Cats, Pacific System Homes and others.
Works
- Kampion, Drew & Noll, Greg. Greg Noll: The Art of the Surfboard, 2007, published by: Gibbs Smith, Layton, Utah ISBN 978-1-58685-776-9
- Noll, Greg & Gabbard, Andrea. Da Bull: life over the edge, 1989, North Atlantic Books, Berkeley CA, ISBN 1-55643-143-0
External links
- Greg Noll at IMDb