Big wave surfing
Encyclopedia
Big wave surfing is a discipline within surfing
in which experienced surfers paddle into or are towed onto waves which are at least 20 feet (6.2 m) high, on surf boards known as "guns" or "rhino chasers". Sizes of the board needed to successfully surf these waves vary by the size of the wave as well as the technique the surfer uses to reach the wave. A larger, longer board allows a rider to paddle fast enough to catch the wave and has the advantage of being more stable, but it also limits maneuverability and surfing speed.
In 1992, big wave surfers such as Laird Hamilton
and Darrick Doerner
introduced a cross over sport called tow in surfing. While many riders still participate in both sports, they remain very distinct activities. This type of surfing involves being towed in to massive waves by jet ski, allowing for the speed needed to successfully ride. Tow in surfing also revolutionized board size, allowing surfers to trade in their unwieldy 12 ft. boards in favor of light, 7 ft boards that allowed for more speed and easier maneuverability in waves over 30 ft. By the end of the 1990s, tow in surfing allowed surfers to ride waves exceeding 50 ft.
One of the greatest dangers is the risk of being held underwater by two or more consecutive waves. Surviving a triple hold-down is extremely difficult and surfers must be prepared to cope with these situations.
A major issue argued between big wave surfers is the necessity of the leash on the surfboard. In many instances, the leash can do more harm than good to a surfer, catching and holding them underwater and diminishing their opportunities to fight towards the surface. Other surfers, however, depend on the leash. Now, tow in surfboards use foot holds (like those found on snowboards) rather than leashes to provide some security to the surfer.
These hazards have killed several big-wave surfers. Some of the most notable are Mark Foo
, who died surfing Mavericks
on December 23, 1994; Donnie Solomon, who died exactly a year later at Waimea Bay; Todd Chesser who died at Alligator Rock on the North Shore of Oahu
on February 14, 1997; Peter Davi who died at Ghost Trees
on December 4, 2007; and Sion Milosky who died surfing Mavericks
on March 16, 2011.
Surfing
Surfing' is a surface water sport in which the surfer rides a surfboard on the crest and face of a wave which is carrying the surfer towards the shore...
in which experienced surfers paddle into or are towed onto waves which are at least 20 feet (6.2 m) high, on surf boards known as "guns" or "rhino chasers". Sizes of the board needed to successfully surf these waves vary by the size of the wave as well as the technique the surfer uses to reach the wave. A larger, longer board allows a rider to paddle fast enough to catch the wave and has the advantage of being more stable, but it also limits maneuverability and surfing speed.
In 1992, big wave surfers such as Laird Hamilton
Laird Hamilton
Laird Hamilton is an American big-wave surfer, co-inventor of tow-in surfing, and an occasional fashion and action-sports model. He is married to Gabrielle Reece, a professional volleyball player, television personality, and model...
and Darrick Doerner
Darrick Doerner
Darrick Doerner is a big wave pioneer in the sport of towsurfing. His initials: 'D.D.' not only stand for his name, but for 'Designated Driver'. Darrick uses a personal water craft to travel to large surf breaks offshore. He is also known as simply 'Double D'. Darrick is known as a big wave surfer...
introduced a cross over sport called tow in surfing. While many riders still participate in both sports, they remain very distinct activities. This type of surfing involves being towed in to massive waves by jet ski, allowing for the speed needed to successfully ride. Tow in surfing also revolutionized board size, allowing surfers to trade in their unwieldy 12 ft. boards in favor of light, 7 ft boards that allowed for more speed and easier maneuverability in waves over 30 ft. By the end of the 1990s, tow in surfing allowed surfers to ride waves exceeding 50 ft.
Hazards of big wave surfing
In a big wave wipeout, a breaking wave can push surfers down 20 to 50 feet (6.2 m to 15.5 m) below the surface. Once they stop spinning around, they have to quickly regain their equilibrium and figure out which way is up. Surfers may have less than 20 seconds to get to the surface before the next wave hits them. Additionally, the water pressure at a depth of 20–50 feet can be strong enough to rupture one's eardrums. Strong currents and water action at those depths can also slam a surfer into a reef or the ocean floor, which can result in severe injuries or even death.One of the greatest dangers is the risk of being held underwater by two or more consecutive waves. Surviving a triple hold-down is extremely difficult and surfers must be prepared to cope with these situations.
A major issue argued between big wave surfers is the necessity of the leash on the surfboard. In many instances, the leash can do more harm than good to a surfer, catching and holding them underwater and diminishing their opportunities to fight towards the surface. Other surfers, however, depend on the leash. Now, tow in surfboards use foot holds (like those found on snowboards) rather than leashes to provide some security to the surfer.
These hazards have killed several big-wave surfers. Some of the most notable are Mark Foo
Mark Foo
Mark Sheldon Foo was a professional surfer.-Life and career:Born in Singapore to Chinese photojournalists for the U.S. Information Agency, he relocated to Hawaii at age 10. Foo spent his early childhood surfing the South Shore of O'ahu...
, who died surfing Mavericks
Mavericks (location)
Maverick's or Mavericks is a surfing location in Northern California, U.S.A.. It is located approximately 2 miles from shore in Pillar Point Harbor just north of Half Moon Bay at the village of Princeton-By-The-Sea. After a strong winter storm in the northern Pacific Ocean, waves can routinely...
on December 23, 1994; Donnie Solomon, who died exactly a year later at Waimea Bay; Todd Chesser who died at Alligator Rock on the North Shore of Oahu
Oahu
Oahu or Oahu , known as "The Gathering Place", is the third largest of the Hawaiian Islands and most populous of the islands in the U.S. state of Hawaii. The state capital Honolulu is located on the southeast coast...
on February 14, 1997; Peter Davi who died at Ghost Trees
Ghost Trees
Ghost Tree is a famed big wave surfing location off Pebble Beach, California. On December 4, 2007, big wave surfer Peter Davi died surfing Ghost Tree.- References :* Masters, Ryan. Surfer]], June 2005 - Vol. 46 #6....
on December 4, 2007; and Sion Milosky who died surfing Mavericks
Mavericks (location)
Maverick's or Mavericks is a surfing location in Northern California, U.S.A.. It is located approximately 2 miles from shore in Pillar Point Harbor just north of Half Moon Bay at the village of Princeton-By-The-Sea. After a strong winter storm in the northern Pacific Ocean, waves can routinely...
on March 16, 2011.
Notable big wave surfing spots
- CapoMannu, Sardegna
- Shipstern BluffShipstern BluffShipsterns Bluff is a surfing location on the south eastern coast of Tasmania on the Tasman Peninsula Australia. it was earlier known as Devils Point-Location:Shipsterns Bluff is located in between Cape Raoul & Tunnel Bay, Tasmania...
, TasmaniaTasmaniaTasmania is an Australian island and state. It is south of the continent, separated by Bass Strait. The state includes the island of Tasmania—the 26th largest island in the world—and the surrounding islands. The state has a population of 507,626 , of whom almost half reside in the greater Hobart...
, AustraliaAustraliaAustralia , officially the Commonwealth of Australia, is a country in the Southern Hemisphere comprising the mainland of the Australian continent, the island of Tasmania, and numerous smaller islands in the Indian and Pacific Oceans. It is the world's sixth-largest country by total area...
, One of the most dangerous waves in the world - Cowaramup Bombora, Gracetown, Western AustraliaGracetown, Western AustraliaGracetown is a small town in Western Australia. It is located 283 km south of the Perth CBD, in the Augusta-Margaret River Shire Council area on the coast at Cowaramup Bay....
, AustraliaAustraliaAustralia , officially the Commonwealth of Australia, is a country in the Southern Hemisphere comprising the mainland of the Australian continent, the island of Tasmania, and numerous smaller islands in the Indian and Pacific Oceans. It is the world's sixth-largest country by total area...
(AKA "Cow Bombie") - Cyclops, Western AustraliaWestern AustraliaWestern Australia is a state of Australia, occupying the entire western third of the Australian continent. It is bounded by the Indian Ocean to the north and west, the Great Australian Bight and Indian Ocean to the south, the Northern Territory to the north-east and South Australia to the south-east...
, AustraliaAustraliaAustralia , officially the Commonwealth of Australia, is a country in the Southern Hemisphere comprising the mainland of the Australian continent, the island of Tasmania, and numerous smaller islands in the Indian and Pacific Oceans. It is the world's sixth-largest country by total area... - Waimea BayWaimea Bay, HawaiiWaimea Bay is located in Haleiwa on the North Shore of O‘ahu in the Hawaiian Islands at the mouth of the Waimea River. Waimea Valley extends behind Waimea Bay. Waimea means "Red Water" in Hawaiian.-History:...
, HawaiiHawaiiHawaii is the newest of the 50 U.S. states , and is the only U.S. state made up entirely of islands. It is the northernmost island group in Polynesia, occupying most of an archipelago in the central Pacific Ocean, southwest of the continental United States, southeast of Japan, and northeast of... - MavericksMavericks (location)Maverick's or Mavericks is a surfing location in Northern California, U.S.A.. It is located approximately 2 miles from shore in Pillar Point Harbor just north of Half Moon Bay at the village of Princeton-By-The-Sea. After a strong winter storm in the northern Pacific Ocean, waves can routinely...
, CaliforniaCaliforniaCalifornia is a state located on the West Coast of the United States. It is by far the most populous U.S. state, and the third-largest by land area... - Ghost TreesGhost TreesGhost Tree is a famed big wave surfing location off Pebble Beach, California. On December 4, 2007, big wave surfer Peter Davi died surfing Ghost Tree.- References :* Masters, Ryan. Surfer]], June 2005 - Vol. 46 #6....
, CaliforniaCaliforniaCalifornia is a state located on the West Coast of the United States. It is by far the most populous U.S. state, and the third-largest by land area... - Nelscott ReefNelscott ReefNelscott Reef is an ocean reef near Lincoln City, Oregon, United States that creates a reef break that is known as the only place on the Oregon Coast with the right conditions for tow-in surfing. It is named for the former community of Nelscott, which is now a part of Lincoln City.The reef is the...
, Lincoln CityLincoln City, OregonLincoln City is a city in Lincoln County, Oregon, United States. It is named after the county. The population was 7,930 at the 2010 census.- History :...
, Oregon, USA - Teahupoo, TahitiTahitiTahiti is the largest island in the Windward group of French Polynesia, located in the archipelago of the Society Islands in the southern Pacific Ocean. It is the economic, cultural and political centre of French Polynesia. The island was formed from volcanic activity and is high and mountainous...
- Peahi, aka, JawsJaws (beach)"Jaws" is the name given to a big wave surfing reef break on the island of Maui in the U.S. state of Hawaii. It is located on the northern side of the island between mile markers 13 and 14 on the Hana highway and sits at the base of rolling sugar cane field hills.The surf break, a deep water...
, HawaiiHawaiiHawaii is the newest of the 50 U.S. states , and is the only U.S. state made up entirely of islands. It is the northernmost island group in Polynesia, occupying most of an archipelago in the central Pacific Ocean, southwest of the continental United States, southeast of Japan, and northeast of... - Hout Bay, Cape TownCape TownCape Town is the second-most populous city in South Africa, and the provincial capital and primate city of the Western Cape. As the seat of the National Parliament, it is also the legislative capital of the country. It forms part of the City of Cape Town metropolitan municipality...
, South AfricaSouth AfricaThe Republic of South Africa is a country in southern Africa. Located at the southern tip of Africa, it is divided into nine provinces, with of coastline on the Atlantic and Indian oceans... - BelharraBelharraBelharra, is a reef and a surf spot located off Saint-Jean-de-Luz in the Northern Basque Country....
, FranceFranceThe French Republic , The French Republic , The French Republic , (commonly known as France , is a unitary semi-presidential republic in Western Europe with several overseas territories and islands located on other continents and in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic oceans. Metropolitan France... - MadeiraSurfing in MadeiraSurfing first started in the Portuguese island of Madeira in the 1970s off the villages of Paul do Mar, Jardim do Mar and Punta Pequena. Almost every surfspot is rocky and powerful. No waves seem to break under six feet in the winter months. Madeira did not really come to the attention of foreign...
, PortugalPortugalPortugal , officially the Portuguese Republic is a country situated in southwestern Europe on the Iberian Peninsula. Portugal is the westernmost country of Europe, and is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the West and South and by Spain to the North and East. The Atlantic archipelagos of the... - NazaréNazaré-In Brazil:*Nazaré, Bahia*Nazaré, Tocantins*Nazaré Paulista, São Paulo...
, PortugalPortugalPortugal , officially the Portuguese Republic is a country situated in southwestern Europe on the Iberian Peninsula. Portugal is the westernmost country of Europe, and is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the West and South and by Spain to the North and East. The Atlantic archipelagos of the... - The Wedge (surfing)The Wedge (surfing)The Wedge is a world-famous surfing and bodysurfing spot located at the extreme east end of the Balboa Peninsula in Newport Beach, California. During a south swell of the right size and direction, the Wedge can produce huge waves up to high....
, CaliforniaCaliforniaCalifornia is a state located on the West Coast of the United States. It is by far the most populous U.S. state, and the third-largest by land area... - Todos SantosIsla Todos SantosIsla Todos Santos is a pair of islands about 19.3km off Ensenada, Baja California at best known for surfing. Access is only by boat, which can be rented out from Ensenada, or La Bufadora. The waves off the smallest island are some of the biggest waves in the North American continent, rivaled in...
, BajaBaja CaliforniaBaja California officially Estado Libre y Soberano de Baja California is one of the 31 states which, with the Federal District, comprise the 32 Federal Entities of Mexico. It is both the northernmost and westernmost state of Mexico. Before becoming a state in 1953, the area was known as the North...
, MexicoMexicoThe United Mexican States , commonly known as Mexico , is a federal constitutional republic in North America. It is bordered on the north by the United States; on the south and west by the Pacific Ocean; on the southeast by Guatemala, Belize, and the Caribbean Sea; and on the east by the Gulf of... - Cortes BankCortes BankCortes Bank is a dangerously shallow chain of underwater mountains in the Pacific Ocean, about 115 miles west of Point Loma San Diego, USA, and about 50 miles south-west of San Clemente Island, Los Angeles County....
, CaliforniaCaliforniaCalifornia is a state located on the West Coast of the United States. It is by far the most populous U.S. state, and the third-largest by land area...
, 100 miles off shore - CribbarCribbarThe Cribbar , also known as the Widow Maker, is a reef off the Towan Headland in Newquay, Cornwall, United Kingdom.The Cribbar is best known for creating annual big waves, popular with experienced big wave surfers from across the world. Wave faces can be in excess of 30-40ft. The Zorba is a reef 2...
aka The Widowmaker, NewquayNewquayNewquay is a town, civil parish, seaside resort and fishing port in Cornwall, England. It is situated on the North Atlantic coast of Cornwall approximately west of Bodmin and north of Truro....
, CornwallCornwallCornwall is a unitary authority and ceremonial county of England, within the United Kingdom. It is bordered to the north and west by the Celtic Sea, to the south by the English Channel, and to the east by the county of Devon, over the River Tamar. Cornwall has a population of , and covers an area of...
, EnglandEnglandEngland is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. It shares land borders with Scotland to the north and Wales to the west; the Irish Sea is to the north west, the Celtic Sea to the south west, with the North Sea to the east and the English Channel to the south separating it from continental... - Mullaghmore, IrelandIrelandIreland is an island to the northwest of continental Europe. It is the third-largest island in Europe and the twentieth-largest island on Earth...
- Aileens, Cliffs of MoherCliffs of MoherThe Cliffs of Moher are located in the parish of Liscannor at the south-western edge of the Burren area near Doolin, which is located in County Clare, Ireland....
, Co. Clare, IrelandIrelandIreland is an island to the northwest of continental Europe. It is the third-largest island in Europe and the twentieth-largest island on Earth... - PapatowaiPapatowaiPapatowai is a small settlement in the Catlins district of the southeastern South Island of New Zealand. The settlement is situated half-way between the cities of Dunedin and Invercargill, on the Pacific coast close to the mouth of the Tahakopa River...
, The CatlinsThe CatlinsThe Catlins comprises an area in the southeastern corner of the South Island of New Zealand. The area lies between Balclutha and Invercargill, straddling the boundary between the Otago and Southland regions...
, New ZealandNew ZealandNew Zealand is an island country in the south-western Pacific Ocean comprising two main landmasses and numerous smaller islands. The country is situated some east of Australia across the Tasman Sea, and roughly south of the Pacific island nations of New Caledonia, Fiji, and Tonga... - El Buey, AricaAricaArica is a city in northern Chile. "Arica" may also refer to:Places* Arica and Parinacota Region, Chile* Arica Airport , Chile* Arica, Amazonas, town in Colombia* Rio Aricá-açu, tributary of the Cuiabá River south of Cuiabá, BrazilOther...
, ChileChileChile ,officially the Republic of Chile , is a country in South America occupying a long, narrow coastal strip between the Andes mountains to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west. It borders Peru to the north, Bolivia to the northeast, Argentina to the east, and the Drake Passage in the far... - Pico Alto, Punta HermosaPunta HermosaPunta Hermosa is one of 43 districts of the Lima Province in Peru. The capital of the district is the village of Punta Hermosa. The district's main attractions are its beaches.-Geography:...
. LimaLimaLima is the capital and the largest city of Peru. It is located in the valleys of the Chillón, Rímac and Lurín rivers, in the central part of the country, on a desert coast overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Together with the seaport of Callao, it forms a contiguous urban area known as the Lima...
, PeruPeruPeru , officially the Republic of Peru , is a country in western South America. It is bordered on the north by Ecuador and Colombia, on the east by Brazil, on the southeast by Bolivia, on the south by Chile, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean....
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Noted big wave surfers
- Laird HamiltonLaird HamiltonLaird Hamilton is an American big-wave surfer, co-inventor of tow-in surfing, and an occasional fashion and action-sports model. He is married to Gabrielle Reece, a professional volleyball player, television personality, and model...
- Eddie AikauEddie AikauEdward Ryon Makuahanai Aikau was a well-known Hawaiian lifeguard and surfer. The words Makua Hanai in Eddie Aikaus full name means feeding parent, an adoptive, nurturing, fostering parent, in the Hawaiian language...
- Ken BradshawKen BradshawKen Bradshaw is an American professional surfer and winner of the 1982 Duke Kahanamoku Invitational Surfing Championship....
- Jeff Clark
- Shane DorianShane DorianPatrick Shane Dorian , or "Shane", is an American surfer from Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. He spent 11 years touring on the World Championship Tour surfing.-Early life:...
- Mark FooMark FooMark Sheldon Foo was a professional surfer.-Life and career:Born in Singapore to Chinese photojournalists for the U.S. Information Agency, he relocated to Hawaii at age 10. Foo spent his early childhood surfing the South Shore of O'ahu...
- Greg NollGreg NollGreg Noll , nicknamed "Da Bull" by Phil Edwards in reference to his physique and way of "charging" down the face of a wave, is an American pioneer of big wave surfing and is also acknowledged as a prominent longboard shaper. Noll was a member of a US lifeguard team that introduced malibu boards to...
- Buzzy TrentBuzzy TrentBuzzy Trent was a pioneer of big wave surfing. Born in San Diego and raised in Santa Monica, he body surfed as a child and started surfing at age 12. He moved to Hawaii in 1952 to surf and pioneered big wave surfing along with George Downing and Greg Noll...
- Ross Clarke-JonesRoss Clarke-JonesRoss Clarke-Jones is an Australian big wave surfer. He originally came from Terrigal in the Central Coast, of New South Wales, Australia where he enjoyed surfing Terrigal Haven, a point break that produces rare waves lasting for up to 300 metres on a big swell.Known also as "Dark Bones" and "RCJ",...
- Mike Parsons
- Bob PikeBob Pike (surfer)Bob Pike , full name Robert Hughes Pike, was an Australian surfer who specialized in big wave surfing. One of four sons born to a former surf champion in Sydney, he was taught the fundamentals by his father and entered his first competition in 1958...
- Grant Baker
- Dave KalamaDave KalamaDave Kalama is a big wave surfer, windsurfer, and celebrity watersports enthusiast. Kalama and his family live in Hawaii.Kalama is credited with the co-development of tow-in surfing, along with Laird Hamilton, Darrick Doerner, and Buzzy Kerbox...
- Malik JoyeuxMalik JoyeuxMalik Joyeux was an accomplished all-around waterman and a professional Big Wave surfer. Known by many as the "petit prince", the Tahitian goofy-foot surfer often gained attention for charging the treacherous barrels at Teahupoo, Tahiti...
- Greg LongGreg LongGreg Long is a contemporary Christian Music solo artist and also a member of the contemporary Christian pop group Avalon....
- Koby AbbertonKoby AbbertonKoby Abberton , an Australian former professional surfer, is a member of the Australian surf gang, the Bra Boys...
- Maya GabeiraMaya GabeiraMaya Gabeira is a professional big wave surfer from Brazil.- Career highlights :In 2009, Gabeira won the ESPY award for Best Female Action Sports Athlete...
- Mark VisserMark VisserMark Robert Visser is an Australian big wave surfer and adventure athlete. Mark started surfing at 10 years old, and competed in several junior surfing tournaments in his youth. His professional career has included placing in several major surfing events and consideration in the XXL awards for...
Big wave surfing movies
- WaveridersWaveridersWaveriders is a 2009 documentary film. The film was produced by Margo Harkin and directed by Joel Conroy.- Plot :Waveriders focuses on the Irish roots of surfing...
(2008) - Riding GiantsRiding GiantsRiding Giants is a 2004 documentary film directed and narrated by Stacy Peralta, a famous skater/surfer who helped define modern skateboarding. The movie traces the origins of surfing and specifically focuses on the art of big wave riding...
(2004) - In God's Hands (1998, fiction)
- Step Into LiquidStep Into LiquidStep into Liquid is a documentary about surfing directed by Dana Brown, son of famed surfer and filmmaker Bruce Brown. The film includes surfing footage from the famous Pipeline, the beaches of Vietnam, and some of the world's largest waves, at Cortes Bank...
(2003) - Billabong Odyssey http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0379713/(2004)
- Biggest Wednesday: Condition Black http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0400225/ (2000)
- Point BreakPoint BreakPoint Break is a 1991 action film directed by Kathryn Bigelow and starring Patrick Swayze, Keanu Reeves, Lori Petty and Gary Busey. The title refers to the surfing term point break, where a wave breaks as it hits a point of land jutting out from the coastline.The film was a box office success upon...
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0102685/(1991)
External links
- Wave Warrior (pbs.org)