Indonesian rice table
Encyclopedia
The Indonesian rijsttafel (pr: RYST-tah-fell), a Dutch
Dutch language
Dutch is a West Germanic language and the native language of the majority of the population of the Netherlands, Belgium, and Suriname, the three member states of the Dutch Language Union. Most speakers live in the European Union, where it is a first language for about 23 million and a second...

 word that literally translates to "rice table", is an elaborate meal adapted by the Dutch from the Indonesian feast called nasi padang. It consists of many (forty is not an unusual number) side dish
Side dish
A side dish, sometimes referred to as a side order or simply a side, is a food item that accompanies the entrée or main course at a meal.-Common types:...

es served in small portions, accompanied by rice prepared in several different ways. Popular side dishes include egg roll
Egg roll
An egg roll is an appetizer and dinner, a variant of spring roll that has spread throughout the world as a staple of Asian cuisine. Egg rolls with fillings are commonly served in Vietnamese cuisine.-Description:...

s, sambal
Sambal
Sambal is a chili based sauce which is normally used as a condiment. Sambals are popular in Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, the southern Philippines and Sri Lanka, as well as in the Netherlands and in Suriname through Javanese influence. It is typically made from a variety of chili peppers and is...

s, satay
Satay
Satay , or sate, is a dish of marinated, skewered and grilled meat, served with a sauce. Satay may consist of diced or sliced chicken, goat, mutton, beef, pork, fish, other meats, or tofu; the more authentic version uses skewers from the midrib of the coconut palm frond, although bamboo skewers are...

, fish, fruit, vegetables, pickle
Pickling
Pickling, also known as brining or corning is the process of preserving food by anaerobic fermentation in brine to produce lactic acid, or marinating and storing it in an acid solution, usually vinegar . The resulting food is called a pickle. This procedure gives the food a salty or sour taste...

s, and nuts. In most areas where it is served, such as Indonesia, the Netherlands, and other areas of heavy Dutch influence (such as parts of the West Indies), it is known under its Dutch name.

Despite that the dishes served on rice table are undoubtly Indonesian, the rijsttafel’s origins were colonial. During their occupation of Indonesia, the Dutch introduced the rice table not only so they could enjoy a wide array of dishes at a single setting but also to impress visitors with the exotic abundance of their colony.

Rijsttafels strive to feature an array of not only flavors and colors and degrees of spiciness but also textures, an aspect that is not commonly discussed in Western food. Such textures may include crispy, chewy, slippery, soft, hard, velvety, gelatinous, and runny.

History

The Dutch colonial
Dutch East Indies
The Dutch East Indies was a Dutch colony that became modern Indonesia following World War II. It was formed from the nationalised colonies of the Dutch East India Company, which came under the administration of the Netherlands government in 1800....

 feast, the rijsttafel, was created to provide a festive and official type of banquet that would represent the multi-ethnic nature of the Indonesian archipelago. Dishes were assembled from many of the far flung regions of Indonesia, where many different cuisines exist, often determined by the religion of the particular island or island group—vegetarian cuisine from the predominantly Hindu island of Bali, halal cuisine from the Sumatra region, and many others from the hundreds of inhabited islands, which know more than 300 regional and ethnic language groups.

During its centuries of popularity in Dutch East Indies, lines of servants or sarong-clad waitresses ceremoniously served the marathon meal on platters laden with steaming bowls of fragrant foods. The first to be served was a cone-shaped pile of rice on a large platter, which the server placed in the center of the table. The servers then surrounded the rice platter with as many as 40 small bowls holding meat and vegetable dishes as well as condiments.

Brought back to the Netherlands by former colonials and exiled Indonesians and Indo-Europeans (Eurasians) after Indonesia gained its independence in 1945, the rijsttafel was predominantly popular with Dutch families with colonial roots. On the other hand, in Indonesia, when the country proclaimed its independence in 1945, Indonesian nationalism increased among its people, and this sentiment projected through the rejection of Dutch colonial culture and customs, including the flamboyant rice table. Today, the rice table has practically disappeared from Indonesia's restaurants and is served only by a handful fine-dining restaurants in Indonesia.

More of a banquet than a meal, the rijsttafel has survived Indonesia's independence, composed as it is of indigenous Indonesian dishes, and is served in some mainstream restaurants in Indonesia. A typical rijsttafel will have several dining tables covered with different dishes; while in some fancy settings in Indonesia, each dish may be served by a separate waitress. Since about 1990, Indonesian food has become part of a mainstream interest in South East Asian cuisine, and there has been a proliferation of Indonesian restaurants in the Netherlands.

A list of typical dishes in the rijsttafel

The following is a brief, but not nearly complete, list of examples of foods that may be found on a rijsttafel:
  • Babi Kecap – Pork belly
    Pork belly
    Pork belly is a boneless cut of fatty meat derived from the belly of a pig. Pork belly is popular in Asian cuisine, and forms a part of many traditional European dishes such as the Alsatian Choucroute garnie, the Swiss Berner Platte, and the German Schlachtplatte...

     braised in sweet soy sauce
    Soy sauce
    Soy sauce is a condiment produced by fermenting soybeans with Aspergillus oryzae or Aspergillus sojae molds, along with water and salt...

     common in the Netherlands, for halal
    Halal
    Halal is a term designating any object or an action which is permissible to use or engage in, according to Islamic law. The term is used to designate food seen as permissible according to Islamic law...

     Indonesian version often replaced by beef semur
    Semur (Indonesian stew)
    Semur is a type of meat stew that is processed in thick brown gravy commonly found in Indonesian cuisine. The main material used in semur gravy is shallots, onions, garlic, kecap manis , nutmeg and cloves...

  • Bebek Betutu
    Betutu
    Betutu is a Balinese dish of steamed or roasted chicken or duck. This highly seasoned and spiced dish is a popular dish in Bali and Lombok. An even spicier version is available using extra-spicy sauce made from uncooked onion slices mixed with red chili peppers and coconut oil.This traditional...

     – Duck roasted in banana leaves
  • Gado-gado
    Gado-gado
    Gado-gado , also called Lotek for its cooked version - differed from lotek atah or karedok for its fresh and raw version of the vegetable covered with peanut sauce and pecel is an Indonesian dish comprising a vegetable salad served with a peanut sauce dressing...

     - Vegetables (cooked or fresh) with peanut sauce
    Peanut sauce
    Peanut sauce, satay sauce, bumbu kacang, or sambal kacang is a sauce widely used in the cuisines of Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, China and Africa. It is also used, to a lesser extent, in European and Middle Eastern cuisine.-Ingredients:The main ingredient is ground roasted peanuts, for...

     (sambal kacang)
  • Krupuk – Shrimp crackers
  • Lumpia
    Lumpia
    Lumpia are pastries of Chinese origin similar to fresh popiah or fried spring rolls popular in Southeast Asia. The term lumpia derives from Hokkien lunpia , which is an alternate term for popiah...

     – Spring roll
    Spring roll
    Spring rolls is an umbrella term used in some Western cultures to describe disparate varieties of filled, rolled appetizers similar to the Chinese chūn juǎn , from which the term was derived...

    s
  • Nasi goreng
    Nasi goreng
    Nasi goreng, literally meaning "fried rice" in Indonesian, can refer simply to fried pre-cooked rice, a meal including stir fried rice in small amount of cooking oil or margarine, typically spiced with kecap manis , shallot, garlic, tamarind and chilli and accompanied with other ingredients,...

     – Fried rice
    Fried rice
    Fried rice is a popular component of Asian cuisine, especially Chinese food. It is made from steamed rice stir-fried in a wok, often with other ingredients such as eggs, vegetables, and meat. It is sometimes served as the penultimate dish in Chinese banquets...

  • Nasi kuning
    Nasi kuning
    Nasi Kuning is an Indonesian rice dish cooked with coconut milk and turmeric, hence the name nasi kuning . Nasi kuning might come in the form of a cone called a tumpeng and is usually eaten during special events...

     - Indonesian yellow rice
  • Perkedel - Meat and potato patties
  • Pisang Goreng
    Pisang goreng
    Pisang goreng is a snack food mostly found throughout Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore. In Singapore and some parts of Malaysia it is known as "goreng pisang" . It is consumed as a snack in the morning and afternoon...

     - Banana fritter
    Fritter
    A fritter is any kind of food coated in batter and deep fried. Although very similar to a doughnut it differs in the fact that it requires some base ingredient beyond the dough it is cooked with.-Anglo-American fritters:...

    s
  • Sambal Iris – Onion, tomato and chilli pasta
  • Sambal Kacang - Peanut sauce
    Peanut sauce
    Peanut sauce, satay sauce, bumbu kacang, or sambal kacang is a sauce widely used in the cuisines of Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, China and Africa. It is also used, to a lesser extent, in European and Middle Eastern cuisine.-Ingredients:The main ingredient is ground roasted peanuts, for...

  • Sambal
    Sambal
    Sambal is a chili based sauce which is normally used as a condiment. Sambals are popular in Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, the southern Philippines and Sri Lanka, as well as in the Netherlands and in Suriname through Javanese influence. It is typically made from a variety of chili peppers and is...

     Ulek – Spicy chilli paste
  • Satay
    Satay
    Satay , or sate, is a dish of marinated, skewered and grilled meat, served with a sauce. Satay may consist of diced or sliced chicken, goat, mutton, beef, pork, fish, other meats, or tofu; the more authentic version uses skewers from the midrib of the coconut palm frond, although bamboo skewers are...

     (sometimes spelled Sate or Sateh) - Various thinly sliced meats, marinated then broiled on a skewer
    Skewer
    A skewer is a thin metal or wood stick used to hold pieces of food together. They are used while grilling or roasting meats, and in other culinary applications....

    , such as: Sate Ayam, chicken; Sate Babi, pork; Sate Lilit, seafood
  • Semur
    Semur (Indonesian stew)
    Semur is a type of meat stew that is processed in thick brown gravy commonly found in Indonesian cuisine. The main material used in semur gravy is shallots, onions, garlic, kecap manis , nutmeg and cloves...

     Daging - A type of stew of beef braised in sweet soy sauce
  • Serundeng
    Serundeng
    Serundeng is an Indonesian sauteed grated coconut that is often used as a side dish to accompany rice. It is made primarily of grated coconut. First spices and seasonings like onions, chili peppers, garlic, onion, coriander, turmeric, sugar, tamarind, bay leaves , lime leaves , and galangal are...

     - Peanuts with sauted shreded coconut
  • Tahu Telur - Tofu
    Tofu
    is a food made by coagulating soy milk and then pressing the resulting curds into soft white blocks. It is part of East Asian and Southeast Asian cuisine such as Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Indonesian, Vietnamese, and others. There are many different varieties of tofu, including fresh tofu and tofu...

     omelette
    Omelette
    In cuisine, an omelette or omelet is a dish made from beaten eggs quickly cooked with butter or oil in a frying pan, sometimes folded around a filling such as cheese, vegetables, meat , or some combination of the above...

  • Telur Balado - Hard-boiled eggs sautéed in chilli sauce
  • Sayur Lodeh
    Sayur lodeh
    Sayur lodeh is a popular vegetable in coconut milk soup in Indonesian cuisine. Common ingredients are young jackfruit, eggplant, chayote, melinjo, long beans, tofu, tempeh all cooked in coconut milk soups and sometimes enrichen with chicken or beef stock....

     - Vegetable stew (spicy) in coconut milk
  • Rendang
    Rendang
    Rendang is a dish which originated from the Minangkabau ethnic group of Indonesia, and is now commonly served across the country. One of the characteristic foods of Minangkabau culture, it is served at ceremonial occasions and to honour guests...

     - Aromatic spicy caramelized beef, braised in coconut milk, chili and spices
  • Lemper
    Lemper
    Lemper is an Indonesian dish made of sticky rice filled with chicken, fish or abon . The meat filling is rolled inside the rice, in a fashion similar to an egg roll; this is in turn rolled and wrapped inside a banana leaf or tinfoil to make a packet ready for serving...

     - Rice rolls with spicy filling
  • Opor Ayam
    Opor Ayam
    Opor ayam is a chicken cooked in coconut milk from Indonesia, especially from Central Java. Opor ayam is also a popular dish for lebaran or Eid ul-Fitr, usually eaten with ketupat and sambal goreng ati ....

     - Chicken coconut curry

Rijsttafel today

Despite its popularity in the Netherlands and abroad, the rijsttafel is rarely found in Indonesia. It is probably because most Indonesian meals consist of only one, two or three dishes to accompany rice, mostly consists of lauk (fish, chicken, meat, egg or other source of protein), sayur (vegetable) and other side dish. To consume more than that number of dishes at once (note: the rice table might range from seven to forty dishes) is considered too extravagant and too expensive. The closest version to rice table readily available in Indonesia is local nasi padang and nasi campur. One eating establishment still serving the rijsttafel is Jakarta's Oasis Restaurant. The Oasis' rijsttafel is served by up to 15 waitresses. However, in Indonesian restaurants around the world, especially in the Netherlands and South Africa, the rijsttafel is still popular.

In July 2011, Garuda Indonesia
Garuda Indonesia
PT Garuda Indonesia Tbk , publicly known as Garuda Indonesia, is the flag carrier of Indonesia. It is named after the mystical giant bird Garuda of Hinduism and Buddhist mythology. It is headquartered at Soekarno-Hatta International Airport in Tangerang, near Jakarta, the capital city of Indonesia...

 launched Indonesian rijsttafel in Executive Class as its signature in-flight service. This Indonesian signature dining was meant to introduce the passenger to wide array of Indonesian cuisine in a single setting as part of Garuda Indonesia experience. This in-flight Indonesian rijsttafel includes Indonesian signature dishes; choices of nasi kuning
Nasi kuning
Nasi Kuning is an Indonesian rice dish cooked with coconut milk and turmeric, hence the name nasi kuning . Nasi kuning might come in the form of a cone called a tumpeng and is usually eaten during special events...

 or regular steamed rice, accompanied with choices of dishes such as satay
Satay
Satay , or sate, is a dish of marinated, skewered and grilled meat, served with a sauce. Satay may consist of diced or sliced chicken, goat, mutton, beef, pork, fish, other meats, or tofu; the more authentic version uses skewers from the midrib of the coconut palm frond, although bamboo skewers are...

, rendang
Rendang
Rendang is a dish which originated from the Minangkabau ethnic group of Indonesia, and is now commonly served across the country. One of the characteristic foods of Minangkabau culture, it is served at ceremonial occasions and to honour guests...

, gado-gado
Gado-gado
Gado-gado , also called Lotek for its cooked version - differed from lotek atah or karedok for its fresh and raw version of the vegetable covered with peanut sauce and pecel is an Indonesian dish comprising a vegetable salad served with a peanut sauce dressing...

 grilled chicken rica, red snapper
Red snapper (fish)
The red snapper, Lutjanus campechanus, is a fish found in the Gulf of Mexico and the southeastern Atlantic coast of the United States and, much less commonly, northward as far as Massachusetts. In Latin American Spanish it is known as huachinango or pargo...

 in yellow acar
Acar
Acar is a type of pickling made in Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore. It is made from different vegetables such as yardlong beans, carrots and cabbage which are pickled in vinegar and dried chillies. The vegetables are then tossed in ground peanuts....

 sauce, fried shrimp in sambal
Sambal
Sambal is a chili based sauce which is normally used as a condiment. Sambals are popular in Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, the southern Philippines and Sri Lanka, as well as in the Netherlands and in Suriname through Javanese influence. It is typically made from a variety of chili peppers and is...

, potato perkedel and tempeh
Tempeh
Tempeh , or tempe , is a traditional soy product originally from Indonesia. It is made by a natural culturing and controlled fermentation process that binds soybeans into a cake form, similar to a very firm vegetarian burger patty...

, also with kerupuk or rempeyek
Rempeyek
Rempeyek or peyek is a deep-fried savoury Indonesian peanut cracker made from flour , peanuts, dried anchovies or shrimp, coconut milk, salt and spices. Some people also add a chopped citrus leaf to add the "fresh" taste to it....

crackers.

External links

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