Maurice Herzog
Encyclopedia
Maurice Herzog is a French mountaineer
and sports administrator who was born in Lyon, France. He led the expedition that first climbed a peak over 8000m
, Annapurna
, in 1950, and reached the summit with Louis Lachenal
. Upon his return, he wrote a best-selling book about the expedition. More recently, doubts about the accuracy of his account have been raised.
became the first people to climb a peak over 8000m
when they summited the Himalayan
mountain Annapurna
, the 10th-highest mountain in the world. The ascent was all the more remarkable because the peak was explored, reconnoitered and climbed all within one season; and was climbed without the use of supplemental oxygen. The event caused a sensation that was only surpassed when Everest was summited in 1953 by Edmund Hillary
and Tenzing Norgay
.
The two-week retreat from the peak proved challenging. Both summit climbers had opted for light boots for the summit dash. This combined with Herzog losing his gloves near the summit, and a night spent bivouaced in a crevasse on the descent with one sleeping bag for four climbers (Louis Lachenal
, Gaston Rebuffat
, Lionel Terray
, and Maurice Herzog) resulted in severe frostbite
, with both climbers losing all of their toes and Herzog most of his fingers. The consequent gangrene
required the expedition doctor to perform emergency amputation
s in the field without anaesthetic.
Annapurna was not climbed again until 1970, when the French north face route was climbed by a British Army expedition, simultaneous with an ascent of the south face by an expedition led by British climber Chris Bonington
. The mountain's fourth ascent was not until 1977.
. The book has sold over 11 million copies, as of 2000, more than any other mountaineering title. Ending with the stirring line “there are other Annapurnas in the lives of men” (in the context of the book, an exhortation to answer the challenges that life offers), the book gave an account of the expedition that established Herzog’s climbing reputation and inspired a generation of mountaineers.
and the posthumous publication, in 1996, of Lachenal’s contemporaneous journals. The 2000 book True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna by David Roberts examines the controversy.
from 1958 to 1963, and mayor of the alpine town of Chamonix-Mont-Blanc. He was a member of the International Olympic Committee
for 25 years from 1970, and has been an honorary member since 1995. He is a Grand Officer of the Legion d'Honneur
and holder of the Croix de Guerre
for military service 1939-45.
Herzog is a 1944 graduate of the French business school HEC Paris.
Mountaineering
Mountaineering or mountain climbing is the sport, hobby or profession of hiking, skiing, and climbing mountains. While mountaineering began as attempts to reach the highest point of unclimbed mountains it has branched into specialisations that address different aspects of the mountain and consists...
and sports administrator who was born in Lyon, France. He led the expedition that first climbed a peak over 8000m
Eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the fourteen independent mountains on Earth that are more than high above sea level. They are all located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia....
, Annapurna
Annapurna
Annapurna is a section of the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes Annapurna I, thirteen additional peaks over and 16 more over ....
, in 1950, and reached the summit with Louis Lachenal
Louis Lachenal
Louis Lachenal , a French climber born in Annecy, Haute-Savoie, was one of the first two mountaineers to climb a summit of more than 8,000 meters. On 3 June 1950, along with Maurice Herzog, he reached the summit of Annapurna I in Nepal at a height of 8,091 m...
. Upon his return, he wrote a best-selling book about the expedition. More recently, doubts about the accuracy of his account have been raised.
Ascent of Annapurna
On June 3, 1950, Maurice Herzog and Louis LachenalLouis Lachenal
Louis Lachenal , a French climber born in Annecy, Haute-Savoie, was one of the first two mountaineers to climb a summit of more than 8,000 meters. On 3 June 1950, along with Maurice Herzog, he reached the summit of Annapurna I in Nepal at a height of 8,091 m...
became the first people to climb a peak over 8000m
Eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the fourteen independent mountains on Earth that are more than high above sea level. They are all located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia....
when they summited the Himalayan
Himalayas
The Himalaya Range or Himalaya Mountains Sanskrit: Devanagari: हिमालय, literally "abode of snow"), usually called the Himalayas or Himalaya for short, is a mountain range in Asia, separating the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau...
mountain Annapurna
Annapurna
Annapurna is a section of the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes Annapurna I, thirteen additional peaks over and 16 more over ....
, the 10th-highest mountain in the world. The ascent was all the more remarkable because the peak was explored, reconnoitered and climbed all within one season; and was climbed without the use of supplemental oxygen. The event caused a sensation that was only surpassed when Everest was summited in 1953 by Edmund Hillary
Edmund Hillary
Sir Edmund Percival Hillary, KG, ONZ, KBE , was a New Zealand mountaineer, explorer and philanthropist. On 29 May 1953 at the age of 33, he and Sherpa mountaineer Tenzing Norgay became the first climbers known to have reached the summit of Mount Everest – see Timeline of climbing Mount Everest...
and Tenzing Norgay
Tenzing Norgay
Padma Bhushan, Supradipta-Manyabara-Nepal-Tara Tenzing Norgay, GM born Namgyal Wangdi and often referred to as Sherpa Tenzing, was a Nepalese Sherpa mountaineer...
.
The two-week retreat from the peak proved challenging. Both summit climbers had opted for light boots for the summit dash. This combined with Herzog losing his gloves near the summit, and a night spent bivouaced in a crevasse on the descent with one sleeping bag for four climbers (Louis Lachenal
Louis Lachenal
Louis Lachenal , a French climber born in Annecy, Haute-Savoie, was one of the first two mountaineers to climb a summit of more than 8,000 meters. On 3 June 1950, along with Maurice Herzog, he reached the summit of Annapurna I in Nepal at a height of 8,091 m...
, Gaston Rebuffat
Gaston Rébuffat
Gaston Rébuffat was a well-known French alpinist and mountain guide. The climbing technique, to gaston, was named after him. He was a recipient of France's prestigious Chevalier de la Légion d'Honneur in 1984....
, Lionel Terray
Lionel Terray
Lionel Terray was a French climber who made many first ascents, including Makalu in the Himalaya and Cerro Fitzroy in the Patagonian Andes ....
, and Maurice Herzog) resulted in severe frostbite
Frostbite
Frostbite is the medical condition where localized damage is caused to skin and other tissues due to extreme cold. Frostbite is most likely to happen in body parts farthest from the heart and those with large exposed areas...
, with both climbers losing all of their toes and Herzog most of his fingers. The consequent gangrene
Gangrene
Gangrene is a serious and potentially life-threatening condition that arises when a considerable mass of body tissue dies . This may occur after an injury or infection, or in people suffering from any chronic health problem affecting blood circulation. The primary cause of gangrene is reduced blood...
required the expedition doctor to perform emergency amputation
Amputation
Amputation is the removal of a body extremity by trauma, prolonged constriction, or surgery. As a surgical measure, it is used to control pain or a disease process in the affected limb, such as malignancy or gangrene. In some cases, it is carried out on individuals as a preventative surgery for...
s in the field without anaesthetic.
Annapurna was not climbed again until 1970, when the French north face route was climbed by a British Army expedition, simultaneous with an ascent of the south face by an expedition led by British climber Chris Bonington
Chris Bonington
Sir Christian John Storey Bonington, CVO, CBE, DL is a British mountaineer.His career has included nineteen expeditions to the Himalayas, including four to Mount Everest and the first ascent of the south face of Annapurna.-Early life and expeditions:Educated at University College School in...
. The mountain's fourth ascent was not until 1977.
Annapurna
Herzog’s account of the expedition was published first in 1951 in French, then in English in 1952 under the title AnnapurnaAnnapurna (book)
Annapurna: First Conquest of an 8000-meter Peak is a book by French climber Maurice Herzog, leader of the first expedition in history to summit and return from a 8000+ meter mountain, Annapurna in the Himalayas...
. The book has sold over 11 million copies, as of 2000, more than any other mountaineering title. Ending with the stirring line “there are other Annapurnas in the lives of men” (in the context of the book, an exhortation to answer the challenges that life offers), the book gave an account of the expedition that established Herzog’s climbing reputation and inspired a generation of mountaineers.
Controversy over his account of the ascent
Herzog's account of the summit day has been called into question with the publication of other members’ accounts of the expedition, most significantly by a biography of Gaston RébuffatGaston Rébuffat
Gaston Rébuffat was a well-known French alpinist and mountain guide. The climbing technique, to gaston, was named after him. He was a recipient of France's prestigious Chevalier de la Légion d'Honneur in 1984....
and the posthumous publication, in 1996, of Lachenal’s contemporaneous journals. The 2000 book True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna by David Roberts examines the controversy.
Other achievements
Herzog went on to become the French Minister of Youth and SportMinister of Youth Affairs and Sports (France)
The Minister of Youth Affairs and Sports is, in the Government of France, the cabinet member in charge of national and public sport associations, youth affairs, public sports centers and national stadia...
from 1958 to 1963, and mayor of the alpine town of Chamonix-Mont-Blanc. He was a member of the International Olympic Committee
International Olympic Committee
The International Olympic Committee is an international corporation based in Lausanne, Switzerland, created by Pierre de Coubertin on 23 June 1894 with Demetrios Vikelas as its first president...
for 25 years from 1970, and has been an honorary member since 1995. He is a Grand Officer of the Legion d'Honneur
Légion d'honneur
The Legion of Honour, or in full the National Order of the Legion of Honour is a French order established by Napoleon Bonaparte, First Consul of the Consulat which succeeded to the First Republic, on 19 May 1802...
and holder of the Croix de Guerre
Croix de guerre
The Croix de guerre is a military decoration of France. It was first created in 1915 and consists of a square-cross medal on two crossed swords, hanging from a ribbon with various degree pins. The decoration was awarded during World War I, again in World War II, and in other conflicts...
for military service 1939-45.
Herzog is a 1944 graduate of the French business school HEC Paris.